That piece really looks good. My question is what about the foot were it attaches to your chuck? It is untreated from your process. Thanks for the information.
Man that is actually gorgeous. I have used Myland's friction polish before but wasn't super impressed. I recently picked up some Doctor's Woodshop Pens Plus (very similar to the shine juice, Walnut oil, Shellac, microaggregated synthetic wax and denatured alcohol - not sure what microaggregated synthetic wax actually is) after seeing a few videos where the shine is similar to yours and interestingly enough he also uses an oil to start, but he uses walnut oil and does it as he is sanding. I am making a few handles for seam rippers and want to see how that comes out. Thanks for sharing and beautiful work man!
It's the oil content in shine juice that makes it go dull. All shine juice is is a crude french polish. The oil is a necessary component to provide lubrication and allow the shellac to spread evenly. If you doubt this then try applying shellac onto spinning woof without any oil. The result looks like a plowed field. So cut back the oil content to a minimum. I use a lemon oil on the wood first. Burnish it into the wood and apply the dilute shellac straight away as shown in this video. There's enough oil on the surface to provide lubrication. Also take note of the "handling" comments in this excellent video. A shellac finish(AKA Shine) is very fragile and will also show water spotting. So apply carnauba wax to protect it. I use Meguiars carnauba past auto wax. Another step in getting the ultimate shine is to use a sanding paste after the shine and then add the carnauba.
Spot on. Shine juice is just sub par French polish recipe that caught on. What you really want to do is apply oil just as a lubricant layer, as you did, or mix the shellac with minimal oil such as 10% oil. Then it’s just a lubricant. Makes more sense to use the oil & shellac separately as with the French polish method, so you’re not having to constantly shake the mix to keep the oil from separating.
I wouldn't use it for food. I think any kind of liquid would ruin the finish. You need to use something that has a thicker finish. You could always use salad bowl finish. It gives a great glossy finish and it can withstand liquids touching it.
Thank You for this video, it's hard to find any that are this in-depth on how to finish to a shine like that, aside from spraying a lacquer finish where I know I can achieve it, I've been struggling with it with all of those products. I will most certainly give this a try.
The Pohl Barn Projects Good luck and thank you. I always love hearing someone got something from my video. Remember, it's practice and patience. In the end, the time it takes is worth it. Good luck and let me know how it goes or if you have any questions.
Actually it went well, I tried it on a economy bowl I was practicing on, Red Oak not my favorite wood to work with, my high gloss tong oil was a rock so I used the min wax stuff I had, I didn't put that much into it but it did work a lot better than what I was doing before, made the shine juice also. Thanks Again.
Very nice video. Great finishing tips. Thanks also for the links provided...very helpful. I have a Carter and Sons bowl gouge, but may invest in a heavy scraper as well.
Good video. I've been turning for 2 years and decided the other day to try OB Shine. I also follow Capt. Eddie and watched his video on the Juice. I like your idea about the Tung oil and will try that as well. BTW, you got yourself a new subscriber. When I get the time I'll watch your video on the bowl scraper tooling. 👍👍👍👍👍
I love this piece about shine juice and will try it on some bloodwood I have. I would like to add a step of sealing the pores with a grain filler, water base, and would like to know if I should do that just after you recommend putting on the Tung Oil or another step?
Andy Vans Technically, a grain filler or sealer would go on first. I personally do not like them because you will find, it takes away from the thick, rich grain color. It's up to you though. Some people prefer it. Thanks for watching.
I do not use it myself. I'd rather put on more coats of my finish than using sanding sealer. Sanding sealer always lightens up the finish of the wood. It isn't as dark and rich.
Absolutely great demo. I never get great shine with my OB juice. I will try three coats of Tongue oil underneath the OB juice. Thank you for the great tips.
It is a regular scrub pad that you would wash dishes with. Usually they are dark green. These are the white ones. You should be able to search for them in Amazon.
Hello and thanks for watching. If you take your time and go through all of the sanding grits, you should not have any problems with cracks and imperfections. You need to just take your time with it and make sure that there are no tool marks or scratches before you move up to the next grit or finish.
Ryan Niemer I think it would work for a little while, but the problem with Shine Juice is that it's not really meant to be handled. If it's on a pen that is constantly being handled, it will eventually lose the shine.
AffordBindEquipment You're 100 percent correct. It's not always the funnest part of turning, but it is the most important. Don't and correctly and it's going to show in your finished product.
Looks very nice. I don't have a lathe as I make bowls out of burls and they're too random for turning so my question is, is shine juice still a decent choice when I have to apply it by hand or is it just too time-consuming?
Great and helpful video on the Shine Juice, thanks. I am very new to turning and used the shine juice on some cedar candle holders I made for gifts. I have a question though. At the end you said about finishing the bowl with wax after the shine juice. Being so new I am curious as to what kind of wax you meant. Thanks.
donmthg So you could use a bee's wax or preferably, they sell a woodturning wax that you should look up. Look for the high gloss wax. It gives it am extra protection and sheen.
gary sobolewski The paper towel actually acts like a polisher. It smooths everything out nicely. You need to be careful though because it can burn your finish if you press it too hard. Thank you for watching.
Thanks, nice job on the video. Given the summer heat in Las Vegas do you store your other finishing products the like the Tung Oil in the fridge. I live in Phoenix and find the heat extremely tough on all my finishing products.
I know you may think I'm crazy, but yes. I do the whole process on the bottom. Like I said in the video, the most important part is the finish. That's the part which will make your work stand out from everyone else's. Good luck.
Love your work two questions 1 noticed you don’t use sanding sealer as a step. Is that intentional? 2 I watched your scraping video and have been trying that to get tool marks out but ran across another video that warned how dangerous this tool is and is only intended for bottom third of the bowl and never the rims as harmonic vibrations can make them explode... have you ever had problems using a scraper on the rims?
I do not use sanding sealer because I find it lightens the grain. I like my wood to look dark and rich. Sanding sealer seems to take that away. As far as a bowl scraper being dangerous, all the tools are dangerous when not used correctly. You need to make sure your have the tool turned in an angle so the piece as its turning can roll off of it. I do not get any vibrating when I do this technique. I love this tool and I wouldn't want to turn without it. Hope this helps.
There is a difference between Tung oil vs the Tung Oil FINISH. Just like the OB Juice, Tung Oil Finish is made up of equal parts Tung oil, mineral spirits and Polyurethane, you can also make it yourself. Plain Tung oil will take at least a week or so to cure whereas the Tung Oil Finish will dry overnight. Pure Tung oil is fairly expensive and can be used in the same method as Boiled Linseed oil. Just FYI.
Truly incredible video. Thank you! Was this blank completely dry when you started shaping it? One problem I run into is when i'm turning i get a lot of wood movement and sanding evenly becomes impossible due to the bowl becoming nonconcentric. Any tips?
Joe Wilson So, it sucks, but you're going to need to rough turn the wood. I rough turned that piece in Ohio about a year ago and then had it sitting in a brown paper bag every since. It was much bigger before, but it warped so bad after truing it up again, that's what I was left with. You should always try to dry your wood unless you want warps and cracks a year down the road. There is no way to avoid it. I hope that helps.
It definitely does. Thank you! I've read it on forums and such but it solidifies it hearing it from you! I'm in western PA and the climate is so volatile with humidity and temperature I feel like it affects us the worst lol.
Jerrod wow amazing and stunning. Now I am wondering if I had that bowl, how do I keep it shiny like that??? I want to wish you and your family a wonderful Christmas and Gods blessings over you a thousand fold.
Nice work Jarrod - thanks for sharing! Question please? What speed do you turn when sanding? Do you spin in reverses? Thanks Dennis Beamish Cambridge Ontario Canada
Superb video! I've been trying to get this quality finish for some time, without success. I have this project t coming up that requires high gloss and I think you just gave me the solution. Thank you very much. What would you use to fill open grain such as mahogany? Kevin
What are you using to apply the tung oil and shine juice? It looks like a kitchen paper towel, but is much louder than I would expect for a paper towel... Great video and great finish!
E. W. Forbess Thank you very much. I am in fact using a paper towel. It may just appear loud because sometimes I speed the camera up but do not lower the volume. Thanks again.
In California 2024 were can you buy denatured alcohol to make shine juice? Every where I look I am told the government has outlawed alcohol. Is there something else you can use instead ?
FANTASTIC video! Very informative! I would have stopped at 320 grit. That is what we where thought in shop (1969). My teacher said you were burnishing the wood after 320, and the finish wood sit on top of the wood, not in It! Of course we were taught to sand soft woods to a finer grit. Your thoughts, please?
John Wallace I would agree with that, to an extent. Finishes like polyurethane have a harder time penetrating, but oil finishes, that's what they do. So between the tung oil, the denatured alcohol which thins down the boiled linseed oil, and the linseed oil, I think it's fine.
Ran across this UA-cam video in my constant search for creating a good finish. Think this might be really what I need. Wondering -- what speed are you running the lathe at when sanding? Know that too fast is problematic but this video looks as though you are running higher than 200-300rpm. Help! (P.S. those are the noisiest papertowels!)
Anne Henschel I actually sand at 1230 r pm but sometimes 810. You may be sanding to slow. A new thing I started to do to start each grit of sandpaper is spray soapy water on it as well. It raises the grain so the sandpaper can take off the rough spots. More advise I can give is to not move to the next grit until you are sure all the scrapes, scratches and tool marks are out. Let me know if that helps.
@@Woodturnersjournal ....wow, that's fast....should make a world of difference! Going to try it tomorrow...I should have a ton of turnings completed, given being stuck in the house. UGH. Will let you know how it works!
I thought the alcohol was supposed to be to dissolve the shellac. If a shellac solution is being used, then the alcohol is essentially being doubled. This might be a cause of your trouble with your shine juice. "The problem with buying shellac in liquid form is that it is seldom fresh. Shellac has a shelf life. From the moment the shellac flakes are combined with alcohol, the resin begins losing some of its water resistance and ability to dry hard." from "Understanding Wood Finishing" by Bob Flexner. Also, Zinsser shellac contains wax (it has not been dewaxed). The wax could very likely be what makes your finish cloudy. You can see the wax separate out in your jar. Try dewaxed shellac, and the appropriate amount of alcohol (not double), and see if it doesn't work better. Or let your shellac solution sit and wait for the wax to settle out, then decant or siphon off the dissolved shellac. Also, Zinsser Bulls Eye SealCoat, though marketed as a sanding sealer, is a dewaxed shellac solution. That might work better for you.
Very good vid , but I kept trying to see the wood behind you in the background , for us burl addicts it's a bit like a economics lecture with a nude woman behind the professor , we miss much of the material 😀
Sounds like you just reinvented the wheel since you’ve been skipping the part where he says to use wood sealer first. You just decided to use a method of wood sealing that takes a lot longer.
Josef Well... I think I would much rather use my method. I didn't mention the sanding sealer because I absolutely cannot stand it. Sanding sealer lightens the wood rather than the rich finish the tung oil leaves. By all means, if that's how you like doing it, then do it. Like I said, this was my process and can't see how anyone can argue with the results. Either way, happy turning to you. 😊
Allyn Wasser That's cool. I did not know that. Whatever it is, I still recommend it, but I do love regular tung oil as well. Thanks for the info though👍
Correct. In fact, Homer Formby marketed in informercials what is now called “wiping varnish,” which is just varnish thinned with mineral spirits to make it easy to wipe on. In fact, Formby’s Tung Oil has no Tung oil in it! It is an oil based varnish made out of modified soybean oil. This is why it’s not as dark as a Tung oil based varnish, or a Tung oil based “Danish oil.” His marketing kicked off a bunch of confusion, because then other people made similarly confusing named products to compete. Now you have UA-camrs propagating the same myth decades later, and we have many comments from people about trying this “Tung Oil” Finally, this misleading marketing gives a false impression that the product is safe to handle with bare hands. It’s not! Never handle varnish with bare hands! Many lay people think skin is an impermeable barrier and you can just “wash off” the varnish when you’re done. But skin is porous. Mineral spirits will penetrate no problem and enter the bloodstream, carrying along all the chemicals that are mixed with it. It’s point is to penetrate. You can’t “wash off” what’s already entered your body! Rant over 😅
Since you let your projects set a long while after an application of ob juice, leave out the dna it works just as well without it. I quit using dna a year ago Works just fine.
There are several ways of getting a beautiful finish as you just showed one of them. And you did a beautiful job. It works well for you, but there is always a another way. I used to use shine juice a couple years ago. I found that buffing a good sealer will give you a mirror like long lasting finish in about 10th the time you spend. No offense meant, but you waste a ton of time and sand paper going thru all those grits. It's just not necessary. I only use two grits 180 and 320, and stop at 320 using air sanders. Then 3 or 4 coats of minwax sanding sealer, back with a little hand sanding with 320, steel wool then buff. Works for me, you get a glass like finish. Check out my latest video and you will see what I mean. ua-cam.com/video/MnL3ylI1GHg/v-deo.html. Take care, Larry
The Wood Whirler Thanks for the insight. I would definitely check out the video. I'm never stuck on one process. This had just been what I discovered gives me a perfect end finish. Thanks again.
Robert Kinslow Oooh. I think your either talking about the CA glue or the Shine Juice. The shine juice is actually in a condiments bottle I ordered online.
Staynavytom That's funny. I just bought a band new Mic. I felt it got much better. What in particular do you not like? I'd like to correct it in my future videos.
The acoustics of your is bad. It sounds tinny and has almost an echo effect. I'm not an audio technician or anything close to knowing what the problem might be. To me it sounded like you recorded in a metal cave. I am a long time subscriber and actually marked this video as a "favorite" so I can watch it more.
Staynavytom Thank you. I'm going to try and figure this out. I really like making these videos, but I want others to enjoy all parts of them. Thanks again.
Great looking bowl. I like using shine juice. Thanks for the great information.
Beautiful piece
Thank you.
That is a beautiful bowl. It’s beautiful wood, beautiful form, beautiful shine.
CMTHFAF Thank you. I'm not sure if I mentioned it in the video, but it's Apple wood. I think it's so beautiful.
I agree about the bowl scraper. I like using it to contour the outside of my bowl just before sanding. Great video!
That piece really looks good. My question is what about the foot were it attaches to your chuck? It is untreated from your process. Thanks for the information.
What an awesome piece...the wood is gorgeous and the finish is really spectacular. Thanks for all the info!
Carol Riley Well you are welcome and thank you for watching.
beautiful beautiful l work work i will try it on my next project regards frank
Great video! I typically make my own shellac. Can I use a 1 lb cut or should I purchase a pre-mixed shellac like what you used?
Pre mixed shellac used for ob shine is about a 3lb cut. 1lb would be sanding sealer.
I agree, sanding is everything, I really enjoy the transformation process, so satisfying, thank you for the great videos, I have learned so much 👍🙏
Instablaster.
Love the form..... awsome work
When power sanding what speed is the lathe running?
Very good information. Thank you a lot
Man that is actually gorgeous. I have used Myland's friction polish before but wasn't super impressed. I recently picked up some Doctor's Woodshop Pens Plus (very similar to the shine juice, Walnut oil, Shellac, microaggregated synthetic wax and denatured alcohol - not sure what microaggregated synthetic wax actually is) after seeing a few videos where the shine is similar to yours and interestingly enough he also uses an oil to start, but he uses walnut oil and does it as he is sanding. I am making a few handles for seam rippers and want to see how that comes out. Thanks for sharing and beautiful work man!
@ironeagletrike Thank you so much. I still have it and it's one of my favorite pieces.
The round scraper also removes end grain tear out too!
I use the O B Shine juice on my projects, I like your tung oil idea will try it soon, thanks.
It's the oil content in shine juice that makes it go dull. All shine juice is is a crude french polish. The oil is a necessary component to provide lubrication and allow the shellac to spread evenly. If you doubt this then try applying shellac onto spinning woof without any oil. The result looks like a plowed field. So cut back the oil content to a minimum. I use a lemon oil on the wood first. Burnish it into the wood and apply the dilute shellac straight away as shown in this video. There's enough oil on the surface to provide lubrication.
Also take note of the "handling" comments in this excellent video. A shellac finish(AKA Shine) is very fragile and will also show water spotting. So apply carnauba wax to protect it. I use Meguiars carnauba past auto wax. Another step in getting the ultimate shine is to use a sanding paste after the shine and then add the carnauba.
Spot on. Shine juice is just sub par French polish recipe that caught on. What you really want to do is apply oil just as a lubricant layer, as you did, or mix the shellac with minimal oil such as 10% oil. Then it’s just a lubricant. Makes more sense to use the oil & shellac separately as with the French polish method, so you’re not having to constantly shake the mix to keep the oil from separating.
Thanks for the detail. I am new to turning and this helps. Is this process food safe?
I wouldn't use it for food. I think any kind of liquid would ruin the finish. You need to use something that has a thicker finish. You could always use salad bowl finish. It gives a great glossy finish and it can withstand liquids touching it.
Thank You for this video, it's hard to find any that are this in-depth on how to finish to a shine like that, aside from spraying a lacquer finish where I know I can achieve it, I've been struggling with it with all of those products. I will most certainly give this a try.
The Pohl Barn Projects Good luck and thank you. I always love hearing someone got something from my video. Remember, it's practice and patience. In the end, the time it takes is worth it. Good luck and let me know how it goes or if you have any questions.
Actually it went well, I tried it on a economy bowl I was practicing on, Red Oak not my favorite wood to work with, my high gloss tong oil was a rock so I used the min wax stuff I had, I didn't put that much into it but it did work a lot better than what I was doing before, made the shine juice also. Thanks Again.
Very Nice! And Nice to meet You again. I have miss You a long Time! Greetings from northern Germany.
Schorschi Thank you. I'll try my best to release more videos, sooner. 😁
Very nice video. Great finishing tips. Thanks also for the links provided...very helpful. I have a Carter and Sons bowl gouge, but may invest in a heavy scraper as well.
Good video. I've been turning for 2 years and decided the other day to try OB Shine. I also follow Capt. Eddie and watched his video on the Juice. I like your idea about the Tung oil and will try that as well. BTW, you got yourself a new subscriber. When I get the time I'll watch your video on the bowl scraper tooling. 👍👍👍👍👍
I love this piece about shine juice and will try it on some bloodwood I have. I would like to add a step of sealing the pores with a grain filler, water base, and would like to know if I should do that just after you recommend putting on the Tung Oil or another step?
Andy Vans Technically, a grain filler or sealer would go on first. I personally do not like them because you will find, it takes away from the thick, rich grain color. It's up to you though. Some people prefer it. Thanks for watching.
Do you recommend sanding sealer?
I do not use it myself. I'd rather put on more coats of my finish than using sanding sealer. Sanding sealer always lightens up the finish of the wood. It isn't as dark and rich.
@@Woodturnersjournal thank you.
Absolutely great demo. I never get great shine with my OB juice. I will try three coats of Tongue oil underneath the OB juice. Thank you for the great tips.
Sivadasan Madhavan Thank you. Since I started doing this, my finishes have been amazing. Just be patient and good luck.
Sivadasan Madha
Do you use a sanding sealer?
Great video! What is the white polishing pad? The link doesn't work. Thanks.
It is a regular scrub pad that you would wash dishes with. Usually they are dark green. These are the white ones. You should be able to search for them in Amazon.
Nice to see you. Great job my friend 👍🏼
Tomas Arguinzoni thank you
what do you do about the unpolished wax that ends up in any surface cracks/imperfections?
Hello and thanks for watching. If you take your time and go through all of the sanding grits, you should not have any problems with cracks and imperfections. You need to just take your time with it and make sure that there are no tool marks or scratches before you move up to the next grit or finish.
Thank you for a really in depth tutorial video, that is the best finishing video I've seen.
Thank you. It's great to know my videos are indeed helping people. Thanks again.
Wow...awesome vid
stephen john baldwin Thank you.
Mr. Toth thanks for the video!
billy19461 Thank you. 😊
Very nice.. I use the juice but will try it over the Tung oil... thanks
david watson Thank you for watching.
I was JUST thinking about using Danish oil, THEN shine juice on pens. Think that would work?
Ryan Niemer I think it would work for a little while, but the problem with Shine Juice is that it's not really meant to be handled. If it's on a pen that is constantly being handled, it will eventually lose the shine.
Would Danish oil work as well as the tung oil mate? Danish oil has tung oil in it along with other ingredients
Yes. Danish oil works great!!!
@@Woodturnersjournal thanks mate, I finished a piece a few days ago with Danish oil so I might slap some ob juice on it today! Love your videos mate
That looks amazing . Great job.
Glen mckelvey Thank you.
Can you use shellac on top of that finish?
I've never tried but you should be able to. There is shellac in Shine Juice, so it should work.
Great job! Love that bowl!
Karissa Palmer Thank you.
Hi there. Also, the link to the Sanding Pads no long works. Do you have a product ID? Great video and thank you for posting.
I have found that sanding done right takes twice as long as turning. skimp on sanding and no finish will make up for it.
AffordBindEquipment You're 100 percent correct. It's not always the funnest part of turning, but it is the most important. Don't and correctly and it's going to show in your finished product.
Brilliant video, really informative.
Richard Austin Thank you.
good job. Hope to see more video's from ya.
DAN c Thank you. They're coming. I have plenty more ideas. Hopefully I get another one done real soon.
Looks very nice. I don't have a lathe as I make bowls out of burls and they're too random for turning so my question is, is shine juice still a decent choice when I have to apply it by hand or is it just too time-consuming?
Great and helpful video on the Shine Juice, thanks. I am very new to turning and used the shine juice on some cedar candle holders I made for gifts. I have a question though. At the end you said about finishing the bowl with wax after the shine juice. Being so new I am curious as to what kind of wax you meant. Thanks.
donmthg So you could use a bee's wax or preferably, they sell a woodturning wax that you should look up. Look for the high gloss wax. It gives it am extra protection and sheen.
Shellac and briwax works great too
Gavin Tolen I'm sure it does, but I can't steer away from these results. At least, not right now. This finish really does come out perfect.
Great finish process , it seems the paper towel would scratch the surface based on the sound it makes but it sure does work thanks
gary sobolewski The paper towel actually acts like a polisher. It smooths everything out nicely. You need to be careful though because it can burn your finish if you press it too hard. Thank you for watching.
Thanks so much for the great information. The bowl looks great. When you use the buffing wheel do you put anything on it?
Thank you and yes. There is wax on the wheel to give it that overall smooth, beautiful sheen.
I am looking to get into turning. can you keep the Tung Oil in a squirt bottle like the OB Shine Juice?
Jimmy Powell As long as you keep it sealed air tight. It's also not a friction polish, so you wouldn't apply it the same as Shine Juice.
It's a beautiful piece and it has a wonderful shine. Question...do you leave the piece on your lathe in between coats of finish?
John Grace I do leave it on the lathe. It may slow up production but I don't want to risk it being off balance.
Wow that looks great, by the way I tried your link to the polishing pads and could not find them on Amazon????
Ron Alcock They may have switched it. I'll look for them again and put up a new one. Thank you.
Thanks, nice job on the video. Given the summer heat in Las Vegas do you store your other finishing products the like the Tung Oil in the fridge. I live in Phoenix and find the heat extremely tough on all my finishing products.
George Brill Hmmm. I do not. As long as I remember to close the containers, I've never really had a problem.
Thanks..
How do you finish the tenon/mortise area? As long as this takes do you bother with the same process?
I know you may think I'm crazy, but yes. I do the whole process on the bottom. Like I said in the video, the most important part is the finish. That's the part which will make your work stand out from everyone else's. Good luck.
Love your work two questions
1 noticed you don’t use sanding sealer as a step. Is that intentional?
2 I watched your scraping video and have been trying that to get tool marks out but ran across another video that warned how dangerous this tool is and is only intended for bottom third of the bowl and never the rims as harmonic vibrations can make them explode... have you ever had problems using a scraper on the rims?
I do not use sanding sealer because I find it lightens the grain. I like my wood to look dark and rich. Sanding sealer seems to take that away. As far as a bowl scraper being dangerous, all the tools are dangerous when not used correctly. You need to make sure your have the tool turned in an angle so the piece as its turning can roll off of it. I do not get any vibrating when I do this technique. I love this tool and I wouldn't want to turn without it. Hope this helps.
Very cool. I've always used Acks Wood Paste then Shine Juice. I'll give this a shot now.
Question, Is this process food safe?
There is a difference between Tung oil vs the Tung Oil FINISH. Just like the OB Juice, Tung Oil Finish is made up of equal parts Tung oil, mineral spirits and Polyurethane, you can also make it yourself. Plain Tung oil will take at least a week or so to cure whereas the Tung Oil Finish will dry overnight. Pure Tung oil is fairly expensive and can be used in the same method as Boiled Linseed oil. Just FYI.
Me Myself&I Thank you for the insight. Perhaps, I'll try my own batch in the future.
Truly incredible video. Thank you! Was this blank completely dry when you started shaping it? One problem I run into is when i'm turning i get a lot of wood movement and sanding evenly becomes impossible due to the bowl becoming nonconcentric. Any tips?
Joe Wilson So, it sucks, but you're going to need to rough turn the wood. I rough turned that piece in Ohio about a year ago and then had it sitting in a brown paper bag every since. It was much bigger before, but it warped so bad after truing it up again, that's what I was left with. You should always try to dry your wood unless you want warps and cracks a year down the road. There is no way to avoid it. I hope that helps.
It definitely does. Thank you! I've read it on forums and such but it solidifies it hearing it from you! I'm in western PA and the climate is so volatile with humidity and temperature I feel like it affects us the worst lol.
Jerrod wow amazing and stunning. Now I am wondering if I had that bowl, how do I keep it shiny like that??? I want to wish you and your family a wonderful Christmas and Gods blessings over you a thousand fold.
Kobie Kaasjager Thank you very much. I did that bowl a while ago and it's still shiny. Though, it's not handled by anyone. It just sits on a shelf.
How do you finish the bottom?
billy19461 I cut off the tennon and then did the exact same process as finishing the rest.
Nice work Jarrod - thanks for sharing!
Question please?
What speed do you turn when sanding? Do you spin in reverses?
Thanks
Dennis Beamish Cambridge Ontario Canada
Dennis Beamish I sand usually around 1250 rpm and my lathe isn't nice enough to have reverse. 😆
Superb video! I've been trying to get this quality finish for some time, without success. I have this project t coming up that requires high gloss and I think you just gave me the solution. Thank you very much.
What would you use to fill open grain such as mahogany? Kevin
"Rick Turns" has a video on "Best grain sealer I've found so far."
What are you using to apply the tung oil and shine juice? It looks like a kitchen paper towel, but is much louder than I would expect for a paper towel... Great video and great finish!
E. W. Forbess Thank you very much. I am in fact using a paper towel. It may just appear loud because sometimes I speed the camera up but do not lower the volume. Thanks again.
In California 2024 were can you buy denatured alcohol to make shine juice? Every where I look I am told the government has outlawed alcohol. Is there something else you can use instead ?
California. SMH. You may want to try mineral spirits, or I heard kerosene may work. Or... drive to Nevada and get the denatured alcohol.
FANTASTIC video! Very informative! I would have stopped at 320 grit. That is what we where thought in shop (1969). My teacher said you were burnishing the wood after 320, and the finish wood sit on top of the wood, not in It! Of course we were taught to sand soft woods to a finer grit. Your thoughts, please?
John Wallace I would agree with that, to an extent. Finishes like polyurethane have a harder time penetrating, but oil finishes, that's what they do. So between the tung oil, the denatured alcohol which thins down the boiled linseed oil, and the linseed oil, I think it's fine.
Thank you, Jarrod!
Ran across this UA-cam video in my constant search for creating a good finish. Think this might be really what I need. Wondering -- what speed are you running the lathe at when sanding? Know that too fast is problematic but this video looks as though you are running higher than 200-300rpm. Help! (P.S. those are the noisiest papertowels!)
Anne Henschel I actually sand at 1230 r pm but sometimes 810. You may be sanding to slow. A new thing I started to do to start each grit of sandpaper is spray soapy water on it as well. It raises the grain so the sandpaper can take off the rough spots. More advise I can give is to not move to the next grit until you are sure all the scrapes, scratches and tool marks are out. Let me know if that helps.
@@Woodturnersjournal ....wow, that's fast....should make a world of difference! Going to try it tomorrow...I should have a ton of turnings completed, given being stuck in the house. UGH. Will let you know how it works!
What is your shine juice mixture?
I thought the alcohol was supposed to be to dissolve the shellac. If a shellac solution is being used, then the alcohol is essentially being doubled. This might be a cause of your trouble with your shine juice. "The problem with buying shellac in liquid form is that it is seldom fresh. Shellac has a shelf life. From the moment the shellac flakes are combined with alcohol, the resin begins losing some of its water resistance and ability to dry hard." from "Understanding Wood Finishing" by Bob Flexner. Also, Zinsser shellac contains wax (it has not been dewaxed). The wax could very likely be what makes your finish cloudy. You can see the wax separate out in your jar. Try dewaxed shellac, and the appropriate amount of alcohol (not double), and see if it doesn't work better. Or let your shellac solution sit and wait for the wax to settle out, then decant or siphon off the dissolved shellac. Also, Zinsser Bulls Eye SealCoat, though marketed as a sanding sealer, is a dewaxed shellac solution. That might work better for you.
Guy Swartwout Thanks for the suggestion. I will make batch without the wax and try it out.
Very good vid , but I kept trying to see the wood behind you in the background , for us burl addicts it's a bit like a economics lecture with a nude woman behind the professor , we miss much of the material 😀
Lol!! Sorry. I’ll do a better job of covering up next time. 😆
Sounds like you just reinvented the wheel since you’ve been skipping the part where he says to use wood sealer first. You just decided to use a method of wood sealing that takes a lot longer.
Josef Well... I think I would much rather use my method. I didn't mention the sanding sealer because I absolutely cannot stand it. Sanding sealer lightens the wood rather than the rich finish the tung oil leaves. By all means, if that's how you like doing it, then do it. Like I said, this was my process and can't see how anyone can argue with the results. Either way, happy turning to you. 😊
@@Woodturnersjournal Way to go man!! Excellent response!!
It is widely know that Formbys does not contain any tung oil. It is a total misnomer
Allyn Wasser That's cool. I did not know that. Whatever it is, I still recommend it, but I do love regular tung oil as well. Thanks for the info though👍
Correct. In fact, Homer Formby marketed in informercials what is now called “wiping varnish,” which is just varnish thinned with mineral spirits to make it easy to wipe on.
In fact, Formby’s Tung Oil has no Tung oil in it! It is an oil based varnish made out of modified soybean oil. This is why it’s not as dark as a Tung oil based varnish, or a Tung oil based “Danish oil.”
His marketing kicked off a bunch of confusion, because then other people made similarly confusing named products to compete. Now you have UA-camrs propagating the same myth decades later, and we have many comments from people about trying this “Tung Oil”
Finally, this misleading marketing gives a false impression that the product is safe to handle with bare hands.
It’s not! Never handle varnish with bare hands!
Many lay people think skin is an impermeable barrier and you can just “wash off” the varnish when you’re done. But skin is porous. Mineral spirits will penetrate no problem and enter the bloodstream, carrying along all the chemicals that are mixed with it. It’s point is to penetrate. You can’t “wash off” what’s already entered your body!
Rant over 😅
Since you let your projects set a long while after an application of ob juice, leave out the dna it works just as well without it. I quit using dna a year ago Works just fine.
Michael Hunter yeah the DNA is what helps it dry fast that's all it is for. I used it for printing work.
Me, too.
I haven't bled on mine in a while either
There are several ways of getting a beautiful finish as you just showed one of them. And you did a beautiful job. It works well for you, but there is always a another way. I used to use shine juice a couple years ago. I found that buffing a good sealer will give you a mirror like long lasting finish in about 10th the time you spend. No offense meant, but you waste a ton of time and sand paper going thru all those grits. It's just not necessary. I only use two grits 180 and 320, and stop at 320 using air sanders. Then 3 or 4 coats of minwax sanding sealer, back with a little hand sanding with 320, steel wool then buff. Works for me, you get a glass like finish. Check out my latest video and you will see what I mean. ua-cam.com/video/MnL3ylI1GHg/v-deo.html. Take care, Larry
The Wood Whirler Thanks for the insight. I would definitely check out the video. I'm never stuck on one process. This had just been what I discovered gives me a perfect end finish. Thanks again.
I store my Shine juice upside down so that the DNA goes to the top. That way it doesn't evaporate as fast.
Along with sorting it in the refrigerator, I'll try that too. Thank you.
Life’s to short .
Go bucks
O-H-I-O!!!!
million dollat lathe and a 10 cent mask
cj lures I'm not going to argue with you, but I do not understand making this comment? I apologize for not having the nicest tools.
@@Woodturnersjournal nice lathe should have a decent mask. that's all
Can’t figure out how you’ve managed such a gorgeous piece yet you wear that hideous oHio state shirt. Amazing.
But seriously, very nice job.
Lol!!! You must be from Michigan.
@@Woodturnersjournal ha ha. No, but Indiana and love Michigan State Football. Go Sparty!
french polish )))
O*H*
M
By hi
Looks like a ketchup bottle
Robert Kinslow???. I don't understand.
The bottle you used looks like an old ketchup bottle they used to use in restaurants.
Robert Kinslow Oooh. I think your either talking about the CA glue or the Shine Juice. The shine juice is actually in a condiments bottle I ordered online.
Geeeezzzz.......the audio on your 'great' videos is.....terrible!! Please!!
Larry Slemp What are you watching it on?
@@Woodturnersjournal MacBook Pro
Larry Slemp I was just curious because I hear that from time to time, but others tell me it's fine. I'm trying to narrow down the problem.
Your video is great! Your audio sucks!
Staynavytom That's funny. I just bought a band new Mic. I felt it got much better. What in particular do you not like? I'd like to correct it in my future videos.
The acoustics of your is bad. It sounds tinny and has almost an echo effect. I'm not an audio technician or anything close to knowing what the problem might be. To me it sounded like you recorded in a metal cave. I am a long time subscriber and actually marked this video as a "favorite" so I can watch it more.
Staynavytom Thank you. I'm going to try and figure this out. I really like making these videos, but I want others to enjoy all parts of them. Thanks again.
Woodturners Journal Where do you purchase your white 3M pads.
Sanding to 600 plus seals the wood...the narration is boring...almost no Sanding of the interior? Need to speed up the video
audio is awful
Gary Rose What are you listening on?