Hi I'm from Singapore. I just found your videos by accident while looking at other engraving videos. Yes please, a commentary as you make anything will greatly help especially beginners like me to learn quicker. Thank you for being so honest and real, sharing not only your successes but also your bad days, I appreciate that while you're sharing your experiences. It truly takes 10,000 hours to get to be good at something.
Yes, yes!! This wonderful lady shares everything. Her honesty is so good for all of us, as it is rare!! Only for such detail, ir was already a good video!! 😮😮❤❤❤
Optivisors (headband magnifiers) and the handheld pin vise are not a complete waste of money. They are just not really suitable for engraving and stone setting. I use my optivisors all the time for any work with a piercing saw, filing, drilling, stamping etc - anything but engraving or setting very small stones. Especially when stamping, a microscope is pretty much in the way of your hammer (and you don't want to hit the microscope optics). The handheld pin vise is brilliant for holding some smaller items that need drilling or filing and where the normal clamps just don't work. Anything else I totally agree with you - especially since you're focussing on engraving and stone setting. NB: The carbide setting tool you mentioned first... Maybe you could re-purpose it as a scriber ?
Correctly put accross. Given her learnt expertise in improvising tools, the lady in probability use a HSS or tungsten carbide to put in a pin vice as scriber.
Thank you for this information, I am just starting out in the craft of jewelry making. this information is Oh so useful to guy's like me. Again thank you.
Dremel engraver was meant to be used for marking ID information on a tool. We in my printing class used one to put our names on the basic tool kit we brought to class every day.
Thank you for sharing your experience. you're smart, calm and very polite. I wish you good luck and success in your craft:😃 Looking forward to see you in the coming videos
I have a handheld pin vice that sits in a bearing holder I made to save me spending huge amounts. The bearing holder is lockable and can be modified to hold a whole host of equipment. I’m an engineer learning to be a jeweler so I make what it’s required from cheap and available parts. Thank you for your video if you know an engineering shop close by you can ask if they can make what you need.
I’d have to disagree with you on the optivisor/ magnifying headband. I use these all the time along with the microscope. You can order different magnications for the optivisor which changes the working distance. I also use the head and shank tweezers quite often but my torch setup is quite a bit hotter and more precise than what I’ve seen you use. Sometimes it all depends on what you’re doing.
Overall good info. I do love your channel and your presentation. Slightly disagree as a bench jeweler, not just stone setter, on the Optivisors. If all you do is stone setting, I would 100% agree. I have a Lica microscope, it is fantastic. But, the Optivisors have very good optics for the price, are very affordable especially for a beginner. (I bought a cheaper knockoff from Amazon which is a nightmare, can't tighten the lenses enough, so they slowly slide down.) I use 5 different sets hanging within reach of my bench. Quick and easy to switch out. My microscope has to swing over my bench, sometimes stuff is in the way, and also I have to change my bench set up. When I only have to set a few small stones, it is much faster to use an Optivisor. For sawing and filing I use a # 7 or #10, then I doubled up lenses to get more variety, even use 2 x # 10 for close up stone setting and examining stones and my work. (That 2 x #10 setup gets very close, with very short focal distance, of course) Never had any issues with headaches, even with them doubled up. But I can imagine that someone could get headaches. So as a beginner just buy one set and see how you do. In addition, my Optivisors have left the workshop on a regular bases. Used them to wire stuff in the house, at my vinyl and laser cutter, etc. Can't do that with my microscope. The Dremel engraver is a great cheap hammer tool, especially for a beginner. I think it is mislabeled, there is no way you could use it for hand engraving anything unless you want it to look like a two-year old wrote it. So 100% agree on that with you. And it is super laud, yes, wear earplugs. But, you can make yourself a sleeve out of brass tubing to be able to recycle and use old ball burs/setting tools. With a snug fitting sleeve you have an abundant supply of great texturing or hammering tools. Cut them down to about 20mm, grind yourself what ever tip you need, and use it to hammer bezel settings, tighten loose stones when burnish setting, etc. I like using it a lot on very small bezels, more than my expensive hammer hand pieces. Also the soldering tweezers can be very helpful when soldering settings onto a ring shank. You can clamp it, then easily look at it from all angles, assuring things are level. Can't do that when everything is stationary. Unless you use super soft silver and press super hard, I don't see how you would ever put enough pressure on this to bend a ring oval? Has not happened to me in 40 years.
Loving your videos - Thank you. I agree with most of your items but 2 maybe 3 - because they depend upon what work someone is doing. First, the smaller micromotors are still great if you work only in softer silver and gold (I only do silver). I’ve had mine for about 10 years and use it daily. I use mine for grinding, sanding, polishing, texturing, and drilling (0.1 - 3 mm) with no issues. That said, I do have 2 Foredom flex shaft motors for power use and for hammer handpieces. Second, I do not do GRS engraving nor routine small stone setting, so the Optivisors are still very useful for me. I currently do not have the bench space for or need to justify a $1000 piece of equipment. (Also turns out, I have a condition in my right eye that reduces the need for 3D viewing. Bummer) Third, likewise I found the odd hand-held pin-based vice not useful. I made it more useful by mounting it on a new handle that is held in the BenchMate system. That said, I rarely use it - deferring to GRS ThermoLoc or an engraving ball. Yup - a waste of $$$. Additional Note - The ring tweezers I likewise have and do not use. Like you, I found third hands are better. Their titanium construction is intended to reduce heat transfer but still, that’s unnecessary for the task.
love your videos, i actually find a few tools on the list here quite useful . the pinch measuring tool: mainly use it to measure a cast piece, where you want to measure wall thickness on a piece that have several layers blocking. i even have my guy file it down to make it even thinner. shellac: it is still the best to hold a full pave area, with very little opening. shellac goes in and can be remove much easier. (just dissolve it completely)
The thickness measuring too is for a different use, not the one you have showed in the video. For example the thickness left when you drill a hole in a metal sheet.
Thank you! I have held off major tool purchases to learn how to use what I have and most importantly, learn what works best for me. Most of the tools I see in UA-cam videos just don’t make sense to me and I am always looking at how to do things easier and better. If I made a video on stupid tools, it would be very similar to this one. Instant subscriber (months ago), and thanks again!!! Keep doing what you are doing, and helping empower others.
Im With due resoect, I must note that: . I used suspended flex shaft Kavos, Faros, Firedoms since 1970, until I biught micros, which are a dream. These can be a dream in correct hands and unless the revs in the handpiece/micro is mastered, anyone with lacking adequate practice patience is likeky to think micromotor will 'dance' on metals. In order to cut any metals with ease to produce -- neat, smooth handwriting like quality in lettering-- even on glass / crystal-- perseverance and long practice with various burrs is needed. Dremel is less likely to produce such quality of engraving.
I agree on the carbide pick and engraver.. The optivisor is good for general purpose fabrication work in my opinion. The thickness gauge is amazing for measuring the metal thickness in places where the calipers can't reach. Think of hollowed out bombe rings or curved surfaces on chasing and repousse work for example. They aren't really meant to be used for measuring wire and sheet metal as far as I know
Exactly ! When you're making a bowl or a chalice from sheet metal, you can't measure the thickness with a caliper, but it is essential to know it as you don't want any part of the container to be too thin. Alas, it is not what she's focussing on, so the gauge is a good and useful tool for a different purpose. Shame on me I didn't think of that while watching the video as I indeed make tumblers, bowls, and also chalices from time to time.
I am a literal complete amateur, but who the hell would make a tool miss for touching stones out of carbide? As you needed to cut them or scribe them, I could see that. But using in just to move around? That’s like using a file for a screwdriver in Watch baking. Just completely unnecessary.
Hi I'm from Singapore. I just found your videos by accident while looking at other engraving videos. Yes please, a commentary as you make anything will greatly help especially beginners like me to learn quicker. Thank you for being so honest and real, sharing not only your successes but also your bad days, I appreciate that while you're sharing your experiences. It truly takes 10,000 hours to get to be good at something.
Thanks for watching my video! If you are learning hand engraving, this might helpt: ua-cam.com/video/xd9RSp1Qlkw/v-deo.html
Yes, yes!! This wonderful lady shares everything. Her honesty is so good for all of us, as it is rare!! Only for such detail, ir was already a good video!! 😮😮❤❤❤
This video definitely helped me to rethink of what I will get. Thank you!
Optivisors (headband magnifiers) and the handheld pin vise are not a complete waste of money. They are just not really suitable for engraving and stone setting.
I use my optivisors all the time for any work with a piercing saw, filing, drilling, stamping etc - anything but engraving or setting very small stones. Especially when stamping, a microscope is pretty much in the way of your hammer (and you don't want to hit the microscope optics).
The handheld pin vise is brilliant for holding some smaller items that need drilling or filing and where the normal clamps just don't work.
Anything else I totally agree with you - especially since you're focussing on engraving and stone setting.
NB: The carbide setting tool you mentioned first... Maybe you could re-purpose it as a scriber ?
Correctly put accross.
Given her learnt expertise in improvising tools, the lady in probability use a HSS or tungsten carbide to put in a pin vice as scriber.
The channel is very good. But the best part is the voice of the little one, that ends the video in golden frame!! ❤❤❤
Thank you for this information, I am just starting out in the craft of jewelry making. this information is Oh so useful to guy's like me. Again thank you.
The ring tweezers are made to hold the crown setting to solder. Don’t put to much pressure on it.
Dremel engraver was meant to be used for marking ID information on a tool. We in my printing class used one to put our names on the basic tool kit we brought to class every day.
Thank you for sharing your experience.
you're smart, calm and very polite.
I wish you good luck and success in your craft:😃
Looking forward to see you in the coming videos
Thanks for your kind words! I’m glad you find my video(s) useful/helpful.
I have a handheld pin vice that sits in a bearing holder I made to save me spending huge amounts.
The bearing holder is lockable and can be modified to hold a whole host of equipment.
I’m an engineer learning to be a jeweler so I make what it’s required from cheap and available parts.
Thank you for your video if you know an engineering shop close by you can ask if they can make what you need.
I would love to see this set-up.
Any chance you could make a video of it and how you made it?
@@JustME-ft4di I will try .
I’d have to disagree with you on the optivisor/ magnifying headband. I use these all the time along with the microscope. You can order different magnications for the optivisor which changes the working distance. I also use the head and shank tweezers quite often but my torch setup is quite a bit hotter and more precise than what I’ve seen you use. Sometimes it all depends on what you’re doing.
Overall good info. I do love your channel and your presentation. Slightly disagree as a bench jeweler, not just stone setter, on the Optivisors. If all you do is stone setting, I would 100% agree. I have a Lica microscope, it is fantastic. But, the Optivisors have very good optics for the price, are very affordable especially for a beginner. (I bought a cheaper knockoff from Amazon which is a nightmare, can't tighten the lenses enough, so they slowly slide down.)
I use 5 different sets hanging within reach of my bench. Quick and easy to switch out. My microscope has to swing over my bench, sometimes stuff is in the way, and also I have to change my bench set up. When I only have to set a few small stones, it is much faster to use an Optivisor.
For sawing and filing I use a # 7 or #10, then I doubled up lenses to get more variety, even use 2 x # 10 for close up stone setting and examining stones and my work. (That 2 x #10 setup gets very close, with very short focal distance, of course) Never had any issues with headaches, even with them doubled up. But I can imagine that someone could get headaches. So as a beginner just buy one set and see how you do. In addition, my Optivisors have left the workshop on a regular bases. Used them to wire stuff in the house, at my vinyl and laser cutter, etc. Can't do that with my microscope.
The Dremel engraver is a great cheap hammer tool, especially for a beginner. I think it is mislabeled, there is no way you could use it for hand engraving anything unless you want it to look like a two-year old wrote it. So 100% agree on that with you. And it is super laud, yes, wear earplugs.
But, you can make yourself a sleeve out of brass tubing to be able to recycle and use old ball burs/setting tools. With a snug fitting sleeve you have an abundant supply of great texturing or hammering tools. Cut them down to about 20mm, grind yourself what ever tip you need, and use it to hammer bezel settings, tighten loose stones when burnish setting, etc. I like using it a lot on very small bezels, more than my expensive hammer hand pieces.
Also the soldering tweezers can be very helpful when soldering settings onto a ring shank. You can clamp it, then easily look at it from all angles, assuring things are level. Can't do that when everything is stationary. Unless you use super soft silver and press super hard, I don't see how you would ever put enough pressure on this to bend a ring oval? Has not happened to me in 40 years.
Loving your videos - Thank you.
I agree with most of your items but 2 maybe 3 - because they depend upon what work someone is doing.
First, the smaller micromotors are still great if you work only in softer silver and gold (I only do silver). I’ve had mine for about 10 years and use it daily. I use mine for grinding, sanding, polishing, texturing, and drilling (0.1 - 3 mm) with no issues. That said, I do have 2 Foredom flex shaft motors for power use and for hammer handpieces.
Second, I do not do GRS engraving nor routine small stone setting, so the Optivisors are still very useful for me. I currently do not have the bench space for or need to justify a $1000 piece of equipment. (Also turns out, I have a condition in my right eye that reduces the need for 3D viewing. Bummer)
Third, likewise I found the odd hand-held pin-based vice not useful. I made it more useful by mounting it on a new handle that is held in the BenchMate system. That said, I rarely use it - deferring to GRS ThermoLoc or an engraving ball. Yup - a waste of $$$.
Additional Note - The ring tweezers I likewise have and do not use. Like you, I found third hands are better. Their titanium construction is intended to reduce heat transfer but still, that’s unnecessary for the task.
love your videos, i actually find a few tools on the list here quite useful .
the pinch measuring tool: mainly use it to measure a cast piece, where you want to measure wall thickness on a piece that have several layers blocking. i even have my guy file it down to make it even thinner.
shellac: it is still the best to hold a full pave area, with very little opening. shellac goes in and can be remove much easier. (just dissolve it completely)
@@theunz what do you normally use to dissolve shellac?
@@HuiyiTan paint thinner
The thickness measuring too is for a different use, not the one you have showed in the video. For example the thickness left when you drill a hole in a metal sheet.
Not very suitable for jewelry but still usable
Thank you! I have held off major tool purchases to learn how to use what I have and most importantly, learn what works best for me. Most of the tools I see in UA-cam videos just don’t make sense to me and I am always looking at how to do things easier and better. If I made a video on stupid tools, it would be very similar to this one. Instant subscriber (months ago), and thanks again!!! Keep doing what you are doing, and helping empower others.
Hopefully you will like the video coming this Sunday.
7:59 haha, same here, stupid micromotors, they dance on the metal.
Nothing beats a good pendant motor. :)
You need to use them correctly and don’t buy cheap ones.
Im With due resoect, I must note that:
. I used suspended flex shaft Kavos, Faros, Firedoms since 1970, until I biught micros, which are a dream.
These can be a dream in correct hands and unless the revs in the handpiece/micro is mastered, anyone with lacking adequate practice patience is likeky to think micromotor will 'dance' on metals.
In order to cut any metals with ease to produce -- neat, smooth handwriting like quality in lettering-- even on glass / crystal-- perseverance and long practice with various burrs is needed.
Dremel is less likely to produce such quality of engraving.
Thank you for this valuable information. I took the handle off that handheld thing and placed it in my bench vice.
Thank you so much for sharing such helpful information. Your video’s are perfectly presented and filmed, and a pleasure to watch !😊
I agree on the carbide pick and engraver.. The optivisor is good for general purpose fabrication work in my opinion. The thickness gauge is amazing for measuring the metal thickness in places where the calipers can't reach. Think of hollowed out bombe rings or curved surfaces on chasing and repousse work for example. They aren't really meant to be used for measuring wire and sheet metal as far as I know
Exactly ! When you're making a bowl or a chalice from sheet metal, you can't measure the thickness with a caliper, but it is essential to know it as you don't want any part of the container to be too thin.
Alas, it is not what she's focussing on, so the gauge is a good and useful tool for a different purpose. Shame on me I didn't think of that while watching the video as I indeed make tumblers, bowls, and also chalices from time to time.
Thank U 🤩
hola muy buenos videos, podrías decirme que microscopio recomendarías please ..gracias
Full list of all the tools I used in my videos can be found here:
huiyitan.com/products/a-list-of-tools-in-my-studio
I am a literal complete amateur, but who the hell would make a tool miss for touching stones out of carbide? As you needed to cut them or scribe them, I could see that. But using in just to move around? That’s like using a file for a screwdriver in Watch baking. Just completely unnecessary.