Opening and test of my new 20W LED bench lights.
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- Опубліковано 27 жов 2014
- Well this turned out bad! I spent a lot of time deliberating on what sort of lights to get for my workbench that would provide good working light and also work well with a camera. I chose two 20W cold white floodlights for the intensity and the high colour temperature.
The lights arrived and I decided to do a video showing the insides and it all went wrong from there.
These "20W" lights contain a 10W power supply and the LED array looks like it has smaller chips than usual. Or in other words, the light is not 20W at all. Worse still was that some other 10W lights I got at the same time are actually around 4W actual power and appear to have a generic 3W power supply for 3 x 1W LEDs in them as the 3x3 array of LEDs in the 10W LED is wired as a series parallel array of 3x3 giving a forward voltage of about 9V.
Then there's the systematic lack of an earth connection in them all, with the 20W lights actually gluing the earth ring crimp out of sight under the 10W power supply. Both the 20W lights had shards of sharp glass from the removal of the corners of the front glass inside.
Just an absolute shambles. I don't know if it's just cost economy or if they discovered that the casings couldn't dissipate the heat properly and were having LED/PSU issues.
But I've fitted new flexes, earthed them and mounted them and even at 10W the light is perfectly acceptable. And they certainly run cool!
I watched this not realising how old it was, and was quite confused for a while at Clive's surprise at the lower rated lights. Looking back at this now, it's quite amusing - we can pinpoint the exact moment Clive's eBay optimism and innocence was shattered forever.
I had 49 years in the electrical trade before I retired and I thought my range of experience was fairly diverse. I think you may have an edge on me. I love your work please keep it up.
-THANK YOU!! SO MUCH for taking the time to do these tests for us!
You save a lot of people a lot of money and disappointment.
There are EBay sellers trying ( and apparently succeeding ) to sell automotive headlights they claim are 80 Watts.
They are SO SMALL I seriously doubt if they would be even 10 watts.
How much light can be produced from 19 3850 SMD LED's?
Unfortunately Too Many people have paid as much as $89..99 OR even More for these unsafe bulbs.
Thank you again for educating the public. This will ensure that people insist on the GOOD LED's.
Only then will the consumer NOT be victimized by unscrupulous sellers.
Remember when microwave ovens sold for $899.00 and VCR's for $750.00?
Now if one of these should break we simply replace it with another for $69.99
Have A Great Day!
+mharris1270 My Point is that Fraudulent claims are being made by many sellers and the uninformed public is falling for these LIES. The Claimed 80 watt headlight Does Not utilize 80 watts of power. They are lying. LEDS are a great device. However, the very high price many charge is not founded. Yet, a large portion of the public foolishly pays these high prices. Only as the public becomes more informed and selling competition increase will these high prices be driven down to reasonably equitable prices.
Until then the ignorant continue to pay ridiculously high prices.
ha ha, 2 years later and I think one can probably buy a vcr for 24 at Walmart and about $37 for a microwave. A replacement light bulb for a micro is about 9 bucks.
8:05 Enter Wago Lever Nuts! Love those connectors!!!!!!!!!!!
The Chinese direct marketing websites should simply display an all-white webpage with the exception of a "add to cart" button. It would be almost the same as it is currently. It basically doesn't matter what you want to buy; they'll send you whatever closely resembles the item you order. They know you will keep the item no matter because of the high cost of returns.
not sure how the uk is about this, but US and China ebay sellers will always provide some sort of resolution if they are caught selling an item that they misrepresented, knowingly or not (and if they dont acknowledge the issue, ebay will give you money back and then they will continue communicating with the seller). Chinese sellers will send you the right item and let you keep the first one. I always end with, "I will gladly leave positive feedback after this issue is resolved". Works like a charm.
Thanks for this Clive
I share your pain, and by that I mean that I was amused by your terse acknowledgment of the the ground leads and status of your PSU's. Your remark... "Bit disappointed!! " for instance, stands out.
From a person who's been similarly disappointed with mis labelling, poorly executed versions and imitations, and ridiculously long delivery times: let me say how much I appreciated the video, ( &forgive me) what a good chuckle I had this afternoon! for that I thank you :-)
I will buy these for filming applications as well.
Holy shit, hot gluing the earth while, I laughed so hard I think I woke the people upstairs up.
Omg what a ripoff I have bought five high power led flood light all from China and they all tested bang on
Love the blogs mate keep them coming
Well done, Clive. If nothing else, being made aware of the Wago connector was enough reason to subscribe. That is, once I was able to translate what sounds like "Weegle" to my American ears.
I've used toothpaste as heat sink compound before. Just for a night, mind. My laptop was overheating and it was late at night, so I took opened it up, cleaned off the old dried up thermal paste, put on a dab of mint toothpaste and smacked it back together. It worked for the night, and the next day I went out and bought a tube of arctic silver 5.
I use anti-seize as a heat sink compound in a pinch, works pretty good. I doubt a lot of people on here know what it is though unless you work on cars and use bolts a lot.
I recently bought a couple of 20 watt led floodlights for my aquarium. One of them stopped working after 2 minutes, with a loud bang. I thought it was the driver that had failed. It turned out that the mains cable had burnt out somewhere. I was able to replace the wiring and it seems fine. The driver units are bigger on the 20 watt version that I have, compared to your (10 watt) ones. I must look for one of those power consumption sockets you have. It looks handy.
+Siskin's Bits and Bobs hello sir, we are a professional manufacturer in led lights for 9 years, if you need same floodlight,please mail me your requirement.thanks !
that hot glue on the earth connection made me spit tea across my desk - goes to show its worth taking stuff apart, to be sure its not going to shoot lightning bolts across your living room :D
Useful, thanks for testing!
Did the seller(s) ever reply to you?
I just saw your old video a olot ofmanofacters are fly by night company in the usa we have big box stores where they sell we call them work lights don't trust every thing you buy on ebay anyways I'm a fan i haven't seen all your videos yet. Good luck😂
An alternative to liquid compound is conductive pads, Kerafol produce some very effective products
Looking back on these I suspect they put a lower wattage driver in them because of lower quality LEDs they know that can't be run at their intended rating since a low watt driver can't be that much cheaper overall.
I recently purchased a 5m strip of white LEDs for my workbench illumination off Alibaba, labelled 15W/m. Hooked it up to me lab supply, and surprise - 2.1amps at 12v, roughly a third of the advertised power. Filed a complaint, got my money back, but still leaves a sour taste.
+Markus Strangl hello sir, we are a professional manufacturer in led lights for 9 years, if you need same floodlight,please mail me your requirement.thanks !
Clive can you send me a link to your power meter there? I've got one from ebay that lasted all of a week before it packed it in
Great informative video, thank you, could you tell me where you got your wattage meter from, that looks like a handy piece of kit. Many thanks.
Malc Tulloch Try a search for energy monitor plug. There are lots of them about. Sadly I can't remember where I got my favourite one, since it's the simplest to use and most accurate. Many of them just try to be a bit too clever and are hard to use without a manual.
bigclivedotcom Thanks for that, yes, you are right, most of them do more than I want, just a simple wattage meter is what I'm after. I will get one & have to learn how to use it LOL.
Wdg err y3 new è
Malc Tulloch It looks like this one www.amazon.co.uk/Ecosaver-Power-Energy-Monitor-Meter-x/dp/B0014VEZI2
I got one from Claus Olsen for ~£10, but I have never considered it might not be accurate. :-S
Maybe +bigclivedotcom can show us the difference between accurate and inaccurate monitors in a future video? :-)
Manual Override Thank you for the info, regards, Malc.
cant u use the 20w driver from the green to drive the white chip ? but then again u only have 1 green
This reminds of the exaggerated capacity Ni-MH and LiPo cells.
I wonder if the actual LED chip itself is the proper wattage as then it would be just a matter of getting the matching driver, even if it means waiting for another delivery.
I'm not convinced that the LEDs are actually using 1W chips. Even under the phosphor they look visually smaller and only have one link wire bouncing along them. The green 20W LED has bigger LED chips and two link wires between each.
That's a bummer about the LED modules. In that case, it's probably not worth replacing both items. The fixture itself is probably the only thing rated for 20W. It may even handle 30W as it is huge in comparison to the tiny heat sinks on most LED light bulbs.
The heatsink of the 13W LED (Integral brand) in our kitchen reaches 85C going by an IR thermometer despite being in a crystal fixture that is full open all around the bulb.
Great, a 20W case! :-)
I have found that if a LED fails the driver will too as it usually the cause. Most of the time when the LED heats up they run at about 185*F and Burn out at about 195*. These drivers really heat up and then they over voltage. These aluminum cases are not very good heat sinks, thats why they are so large.
I have just come across scam with a 30W light but a 20W driver, the driver was glued in as it was too small to fit the screw holes in the case but the earth was screwed into one of the holes, replacing the driver with a 30w one it fitted the screw holes and ran at 30w but that does give you a case temp of about 97°C on the back where the LED is mounted.
The 20w driver in a 30W case isn't too bad. It'll still put out decent light, but at a lower operating temperature. I don't think I've seen one of these lights with the driver actually screwed in. they all seem to be glued to the case.
Did you ever manage to find a supplier that sells LED flood lights that actually do meet their specified output?
LED = Light Emitting Disappointment...
+muh1h1 is that so? I heard many positive feedback on the LED, could you share your disappointing experience with us?
+Trae Peng just watch the video :)
muh1h1 i mean, not the video. just the opinions of the people around me
+Trae Peng my comment was on the video, there you can see a big dusappointment
muh1h1 ok, i see :)
I wonder if the importers have all the test reports to back up their CE marking claim? I suspect not!
Most likely ...NOT. 2018 and I was sold defective and fraudlent goods. See here to read my review andmaybe a lot of others will avoid such sellers www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B017AHWIG4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Do you have anything softening the light? It has seemed a bit harsh in places.
At the moment I've got a temporary lighting setup of just two gooseneck GU10 LED lamps. These new lights should be softer. And if they are too sharp I'll probably add some diffusion to them.
Is there a place where I can get those temporary wire connectors?
At least it has a proper ballast. I just got ripped off by banggood. I ordered some flicker free 5w e14 led lights and they flicker at 25Hz with a very short duty cycle.
Oh wow. I just bought an identical looking lamp off a local supplier. Asked for 4000k but was shipped Wark white as well :(
Will have to chuck it on the watt meter and open it to look.
Ok, mine looks slightly different - its square not taller like your one is, earth is connected to a crimp under one of the screws that would be used to hold the reflector, and the driver is a 600mA one. I have less heatsinking on the back of mine as its smaller and it doesnt overheat when I left it running overnight a few days ago. Measures 21 watts on my cheap plug in meter.
***** Did you buy yours online?
Interesting.
+Peter Buchta we can supply the same slim floodlight from 10w to100 watts,if you like,please mail me more inromation.thanks !
Wattage is an old bulb measurement, Lumines, lux, or foot candles you get more light from less wattage with LEDs
Wattage is a measure of the electrical power consumed by an electrical device or appliance no matter what technology is used. If you ask the seller for a lamp that consumes 20 Watts and that seller supplies you with an item that does not meet your stated requirements, then in countries that have consumer laws, make use of those rights and demand that the seller corrects the situation. Also in many countries that have consumer rights, an item must be fit for the purpose that it is advertised as.
how small 20w watts housing ! it seem like 10w floodlight housing
I've bought a number of LED lighting components from aliexpress, and have found that more often than not, the wattage rating is far below what the advertised rating is. I've asked some of the sellers. Most don't understand because they're only small-time distributors of some manufacturer. Those that *do* understand say that the wattage is calculated from the max wattage that the LED's themselves _could_ handle, not how they're actually configured. That makes the LED's last longer, sure, but any LED item I buy from a US retailer like Home Depot or Lowes Hardware will measure the wattage almost exactly as stated on the packaging. Frankly, I call what we're seeing from the cheap chinese LED's false advertising. Most of the sellers on ebay and amazon are buying from the same manufacturers who distribute to aliexpress, just with a retail profit margin added. Rather than rely on what's reported by sellers, we end up having to find out exactly what their wattage is and then decide how best to use them in your client's lighting design or system -- or avoid using them when we find the configuration is unsafe.
Please explain the physics of why BigClive (not murican) and so many dumb muricans shouldn't expect a light bulb advertised as having a 20W power draw to measure somewhere around 20W when we check it with a watts meter.
***** Perhaps. But where there are regulations regarding electrical fixtures, I expect anyone selling them to comply. It's not like there aren't similar regulations in China. This isn't BIgClive or myself being peevish. If I'm designing a room or outdoor space with specific lighting needs and I buy parts that are rated for specifications that are incorrect, at best, I could seriously under-estimate the amount of light thrown in a given area, dissatisfying my client. At worst, I could be creating an electrical hazard without knowing. These aren't standards only for muricans, but the world over. The people who design these things are smart -- probably smarter than either of us. I have to assume they're smart enough to know they'll be awarded leeway for assumed "poor-understanding-due-to-poor-translation" in order to undermine the spirit of international standards. That doesn't sit right with me. It's because they're using their intelligence for unethical gain that I'm ticked, not because I think they're stupid.
+bishplis I have a Ford. It's probably got parts made in Japan, Korea, maybe even China. But Ford spec'd the design and approved tolerances for various parts and tested them before they approved manufacture of any batch lot of parts for assembly. And then they randomly test for quality control for each received batch lot. Because I have no tools for measuring car specs, I have to hope that Ford isn't pulling a fast one. Consumer Reports does a good job of watchdogging for Car manufacturers that don't meet the proper criteria, especially with regards to safety.
Similarly, if I buy a Samsung tablet from Best Buy or Walmart with labeled power specs, it will meet or exceed those specs, even though the parts were manufactured by Samsung in South Korea. I know I'm not going to receive an under-voltage AC power supply that will never fully charge my tablet, nor an over-voltage AC power supply that will bake my tablet's battery until it leaks or explodes. For the most part, the product will be reliable within certain limits. If I buy a 20 watt LED bulb at Home Depot, it will draw 20 watts. Not 11 or 13... maybe 19 or 21... but usually 20, even though it's manufactured by Cree in China.
Manufacturers build their client list based on trust. Distributors are the same. If these stakeholders advertise the wrong specs, how can they build trust in an open market with their vendors and end-use consumers in the US, Russia or the UK?
It's a bit like the local butcher putting a thumb on the scale while weighing your fish or franks. Would you go back to that butcher again?
***** Turning it the other way: Are you saying you would buy a 20W light knowing you're probably not getting that? Would you also buy a tablet that came with an over-voltage AC adapter that bakes your battery knowing your battery might explode? Are you saying this is acceptable?
*****
Ooohhh... You're just needing to have the "last word" or be "right" or "win" or something. We're not discussing. We're leading up to your "win". Okay. You win. Good for you.
It's because of instances like this that I do not buy anything direct from Chinese sellers anymore. They simply send you whatever they have on-hand that sort-of fits the bill. So, if no one is between me and them to make sure that I am getting what I pay for, I don't buy! And, don't bother emailing them about it after they have your money, because they won't care and will do nothing about it.
If they send you the wrong thing on AliExpress you can usually reach a pretty favourable (for you) settlement thanks to the buyer protection rules.
Sure, and Amazon favours the buyer most of the time but still doesn't help when the sellers continue to take money from other suckers. For the 10W LED floods I purchased (10 at $75) with free shipping, it was too good to be true. Improper wiring not grounded at all, poor seals,no certification. Truly suspect since most companies wouldn't risk it.
Buy a 50w led and a 50w driver and install inside.
can i fit 50w chip and driver in 30w chip floodlight ?
I wouldn't recommend it, as the case is probably barely rated for the 30W of heat. You can use a 50W chip with the original 30W driver though.
It would be nice to know the ebay part number to order ?
I think you should care more about actual LUMEN and price/quality ratio, more than simply watts.
if you got 13W instead of 20W but same LUMEN, isn't that better?
Although I'm late to this video and for my post by about 3 1/2 years, I recently experienced a fraud still being perpetuated on then naive public. Amazon.ca purchase of similar lights. A really good deal for supposed 10-watt LED light fixtures. 10 of them for approx. $75. I have posted a review about the issues thereof but to summarize here, I'm a Canadian resident, specific codes or standards are to be met if products are to be marketed in North America. They are different from Europe's of course. My issue and when I first started to be suspicious. The glass on a few of them was misaligned so since they all have 4 screws to attach their metal cover with glass overlay, I removed them. Although they are stated to be waterproof, that's questionable since the silcone-like gaskets weren't properly positioned, thus eventually allowing any moisture or water to seep in. Next, there are 3-wires that enter the unit at the rear, black, white and green. All are pre-stripped of about 1/4 inch of insulation. Inside the white and black enter into the control module BUT the green ground which has about 1/8" stripped of insulation, just hovers inside. It isn't connected to any ground screw or terminal. I've saved the best for last too, nowhere on the units is a certifification mark or stamp of any kind. North American Standards as well as European etc., ALL require such things. Were this company attempting to sell or market this item from an actual storefront (brick and mortar for example), I have no doubt they'd be shut down very quickly due to this fraud and deception. Amazon.ca has of course been notified and eTopLighting which is based out of China (of course they are) does have a lot of other electrical products and devices listed on Amazon's sites. I'm not sure if Aamazon will do due diligence in investigating the complaint but since they're complicit in nature by allowing such a business to sell their wares on their site(s), I'd believe they should or will investigate further. You can find my review for the product here: www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B017AHWIG4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Clearly, a power adaptor marked 10W will NOT give out 20W. So your remarks are no doubt pertinent! In the current example, the LED does seem to be a 20W model, and if you feed it with 300 mA, it will only give out 33 x .3 = 9.9 W... Which seems to be the case. Never trust the Chinese!
The LED certainly had the two rows of 10 chips, but they were visibly smaller than the usual chips used in these arrays. I upgraded the lights with new drivers and LEDs.
Even if products have certification marks/stamps for which one would assume they have been inspected, it's often bogus. The world is being saturated with Chinese crap and we're falling for it.Don't get me wrong though, even some retailers fall victim to this crap but the consumer doesn't ofetn here about it unless there's a recall, a serious accident like a fire etc., or someone such as myself starts to dig into the product I purchased to see if all T's are crossed and all i's dotted. There's a reason why the seller used Amazon canada to sell the items I purchased, Amazon doesn't have the time or manpower to actually verify all that they represent for products. No wonder most any products one purchases from eBay and in China instead of Amazon, often takes over 3 months to get here and must be held for inspection by our government agencies. So much fraud and decption and inferior products, many are ticking time bombs and sooner or later someone's home is going to burn down because of bogus or counterfeit goods.
Unfortunately LED lamp manufacturers are rating the lamps by the wattage ratings of the LEDs and not the actual output of the power supplies. While its good to run the LEDs under powered to keep the heat down and extend the life, the real light output must be known to use the products effectively.
For decades and since the beginning of production, snowblowers came with horsepower ratings ie: 8hp. Then someone or some got sued and now it's known as CC's. Eventually LED's will be in the same boat (from China of course). Big scam happening these days, incandescents have mostly been banished (some still being manufactured in Asia), then it was the twist CFL's (also failures), now the over-priced LEDS with "equivalent watts" output ratings. I personally don't care what the numbers are, I only care if I can have some decent lighting when it's dark out. One does save a fair amount of money when they're on though. The bigger scams and failures too? Those strings of Christmas lights, many should last a long time more than they do, some fail on the string, some poorly assembled and water leaks into them. Warranties are garbage, most people throw out their receipts after a time, usually right after that, there's an issue or two with the lights.
@@grantrogers7463 This is old video so I don't know what the overall concensus is but in Finland consumer lamps are sold with lumens, not watts(1). I like that because that is the actually needed value when you think of lighting. (1) They have actual watts and equivalency watts also on them.
9:14 That's a wee bit annoying! CLIVE SMASH!
you pay for what you get its cheap so i be happy your save money and you got a light the works long as it light up what you need it for i be happy its save power for you but you need a earth on it if you got high volts if you stay with 12v dc like the ones i got then don't need earth
My 10 light fixtures as purchased from Amazon.ca, had the earth wire going inside to umm, nowhere LOL On the outside it appeared that hey, it's grounded because there's the green wire! Scammers and shysters from China
This is prob as they are trying to run them as super efficient as possible the best way to run a cob is at about 56% as you get a better life span and less heat is you run a led or cob at max I've 20 w it will burn out loads quicker if you want more light you should buy perhaps a 50w and run it at say 30w
But then it shouldn't be advertised as a 20W light. If they want to make a "super reliable" 20W light they can use a 50W or 30W LED module and run it at 20W. But one advertising 20W should be 20W.
name and shame them it might stop it happening then
the 2 most important factors are LED chips, and the driver. confirm these before placing order
I searched up Bench appearo how
No gasket between the chassis and glass either? Guess the Ingress Protection rating of 65 will be bunkum too.
There is a squishy silicone seal there. On one of the other lights it was hanging out the side and the live crimp was firmly sandwiched between the glass and unearthed frame at that point instead.
It's probably still best you're using them indoors though, eh? I used to work with two-way radios from some very well-known multinational companies. Their approach to IP and servicing was to hold everything together with shitey wee clips, friction fit everything to the knobs and use the most perishable grade of everything for gap sealing. To fix their power amplifiers all you often had to to was straighten the legs!
On-topic, thanks for the recent volume of posts. Really enjoying them.
BigGoucho To be fair, it is a soft silicone seal and the front surface is smooth glass, but water always finds a way in somehow. I'm afraid to say I've got lots of professional experience of waterlogged outdoor electrical equipment. Most of my work is outdoors.
Maby 20w equivalent?
+Mod Mike then it's a very low efficiency led. i think leds are abnout a 1:10 efficiency ratio compared to incandescent bulbs?
+FoodOnCrack LEDs are way more efficient than any other light source. A 40 watt incandescent bulb can be replaced with a 8-1/2 watt LED bulb with no loss of light. Many Chinese suppliers rate their lamps by the max wattage rating of the LED(s) in the lamp and then put in a lower wattage power supply as shown in the video.
Those are Chineese Watts !!!
The first tip off should be that big propaganda notice on the front of it that says "20W", quality doesn't have to brag about it's specs, but scamsters often do.
This can also go in your favor, you complain to them with evidence = free lights.
Nah, just replace green driver to white LED.
Just to be clear this type of thing is still going on. I recently purchased some LED bulbs to replace some tiny 9G halogen lamps. I was concerned that the new LED bulbs wouldn't physically fit so I chose the smallest 5 watt equivalent lights I could. When they arrived I was pleased that they physically fitted into the housings but a little disappointed in the light output.When I tested them on a power metre they read 1.5 Watts. After a partial refund I ordered the largest 5 watt LED bulbs I thought would fit my purpose. These turned out to have an output of 3 Watts.
Hamoci
Thanks for getting ripped off so we don’t have to! What a crap deal...
Hum... Not sure that your power meter really shows the true RMS power value. The power adaptor input stage is not a pure resistor, but it is a rectifying bridge that feeds a high voltage capacitor. The current waveform is not at all a sine wave. So your power meter might not be showing the true RMS power... A better way of measuring the power is on the LED itself : read the DC voltage across it, and the current suplied to it (this means unsoldering a lead to insert an ampmeter in the loop). Then the true power fed to the LED is exactly V x A. For instance most 20 W LEDs are fed with 34 VDC and 600 mA, which amounts to the expected 20.4 W.
The power meter I use is the most accurate I've found, even on odd loads like switchmode power supplies and capacitive droppers. The meter also shows similar lights fitted with actual 20w drivers as drawing close to 20w of power. This one however was only fitted with a 10w driver with an output current of 300mA clearly marked on the case.
TransatlanticFL But the power meter would overestimate the power not underestimate, right?
I was recently scammed in a similar way. A pair of 20w PIR LED external
were found to be 11w on testing with a power meter. I did get a partial refund. So this is still going on and perhaps you should over spec any lights or at least add 10w to any lights from China on eBay.
i dont know why but all of my leds from china has crappy color distribution.
they are absolutely horrible for shooting video.
Um Shit happens But Why
LEDs also should not really be seen as a 20w or 50w as this is a unit of consumption this is put on to give you a idea compared to a normal light bulb ie this bulb gives out a similar amount of light to a non led light bulb , you need to be more conserned with the voltage and the amount of ma the driver I'd delivering if the led/cob is say 800ma max and the driver delivers 800ma it will be at max bright ness the draw at the wall will be a lot less as LEDs are loads more efficient that a conventional bulb it will not be 20w , they are not ripping you off its simply that watts and LEDs don't really go together
Watts is a measurement of power. LEDs will be lower power than incandescent for the same brightness, but they're still the number of watts they are. A 20W LED should draw 20W of power, and be approximately twice as bright as a 10W LED. It may give off the same light as a 150W tungsten halogen, but the tungsten halogen will draw 150 watts.
so another fake earthed light fitting
plus it likely has no continuity to the chassis as the glue is an insulator
hey china the reason you have to push crap through secondary uncertified sources is literally the lack of that green wire having a connection to the case
even in the usa anything outdoor or otherwise permanent requires that wire be connected to the grounding rod jammed into the ground
if at any point along the way you can't take a battery and send a test voltage all the way back from the rod to the device it fails
all you had to do was connect a single screw crimp to the case and you would be able to have a massive market of customers
the cost of a single screw is eating into profits and that is all on you
yup clive the Chinese baffle me
they intentionally fake earthing while their products almost always would work fine if the wire was simply properly connected
or even better just make us wire it inside the case and save even more pennies on the uselessly short flex
the sheer effort they go to to avoid certifications when it is actually cheaper and more profitable to just follow the requirements is just insane
these lights are so nice if a tad overrated most times that just leaving a grommet that we supply our own flex or leave a simple threaded hole for our own gromit would save them even more on parts and as we would have to wire the earth ourselves anyway it becomes complaint
if they just didn't supply the wire at all it becomes cheaper to make and even more markets to sell to open up, and it even allows us to wire it without earthing if our country is shit with safety
adding the wire that we have to replace anyway for safety just ruins profits
a flex that short is something you just remove and replace with longer cable and while you are inside you re-connect earth
supplying the flex is a few cents in copper and prevents proper certifications as they just don't connect it properly
just omit the external wires and this cheap shitty dangerous ebay product market vanishes as we open it up and connect it properly for each country
just supply a box with the LED case and driver, say "local wiring required"
it might even be cheaper to supply 3 wago clones than the copper wire they never connect correctly anyway
Clive can you send me a link to your power meter there? I've got one from ebay that lasted all of a week before it packed it in
+australianstig I got it ages ago when it briefly appeared in a local shop called Maplins. Haven't seen it since.
The UK is still protected by EU regulations and in the EU fucking with labelling and power ratings as a seller is a pretty serious felony. . Report those UK sellers to the police.