How to change LEDs and drivers in LED floodlights.
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- Опубліковано 9 вер 2024
- Since I had received the first two of several 20W drivers and LEDs ordered from different ebay sellers I decided to go ahead and upgrade my fake 20W bench floodlights to their full 20W rating.
I decided to video it because it shows what's involved in changing the drivers and LEDs in standard LED floodlights. This means that anyone with a faulty light can get it going again, since there are really only two components.
You could also mod your light by changing the colour from cold white to warm white or vice versa. Or perhaps use one of the high power coloured LEDs instead for effect lighting.
If your light was having thermal dissipation issues you could also lower the drivers power rating from maybe 100W to 50W.
Most of the lights in the 20, 30, 50, 70, 100W range use a standard LED platform with a matrix of 100 LED mounting positions on it that are populated as required. The LEDs tend to be wired in series circuits of ten 1W chips and then groups of ten are paralleled to make up the desired wattage. It follows that if you have a 20W driver you can actually use a higher power LED array since the voltage will be the same and the current will just get distributed through more LEDs. In this case I chose to use a 20W driver to run a 50W LED to give the LEDs an easy life at less than half their normal current.
The video is self explanatory, but it's worth mentioning that I had already extended the cable length on the floodlight. If you can actually use the tiny length of cable that comes pre-fitted then you only need to thread it through the cable gland. You don't need to use soldered joints and heatshrink sleeving. You could use crimps or even terminal strip to make the connections. Just make sure the earth/ground connection is attached to the metal case for safety.
The positive side of the LED seems to be identifiable in all the LEDs I've used, by the location of two extra holes right through the body and heatsink plate of the LED. Possibly also used for alignment in manufacturing processes.
If your light has a passive infrared detector on it for detecting the presence of people then it has three wires that are connected as follows. The neutral (blue in Europe) that is commoned with the incoming neutral and the driver. The live (brown in Europe) which goes directly to the incoming live. And finally there will be a third switch wire which will probably be a different colour like red. This is the one that goes to the LED drivers live connection so it can switch the light on and off. If you have a faulty PIR you can either bypass it for continuous operation by just connecting the LED driver directly to the incoming mains supply, or you can probably get a new one cheaply by buying a basic PIR LED floodlight purely to rob for the PIR sensor unit. The power rating is not really an issue, since even the most basic PIR should handle up to 100W or more.
Wow - you've got some serious manual dexterity going on there. I never would have thought of holding the wires with two fingers and feeding the solder in with two others on the same hand. I'll have to practice that.
I have short fingers, and I cannot do it that way. However I have soldered for a,long time, and this is the same concept, but exactly opposite from how he's doing it. I use thumb and pinky supported ring finger to hold my wires, and my middle and pointer to feed solder. lol I tried to teach my friend this but she too has her own way. She melts the solder to her tip, then uses the end if the wire to wick it up
Once more an excellent video, thanks a lot. One thing I can comment on this kind of flood light is: Over time I have seen several of the ones I've purchased so far (30 Watts, 50 Watts), fail because of a very poor design of the back plate that acts as a heatsink for the LED chip. The way I have solved it has been to re-work the flood light installing inside a 4mm thick aluminum plate on the surface where the LED goes attached, that covers most of the inside of the available surface (100mm x 90mm or so) so the LED now rests over a very wide and thick plate that helps conduct heat more efficiently to the outside of the light assembly. This plate is attached to the inside of the floodlight with four nuts and bolts and also with a sufficient quantity of heatsink conductive paste. Then after the plate has been installed, new holes are drilled and tapped and the LED chip is installed once more in the same position. Then, if needed, the front aluminum reflector plate is re-worked to accomodate the new position of the LED chip (more up-front). This has demonstrated to solve the problem of life span for sure. Another modification I have made has been to install 70 x 70 mm COB LED chips, that give a lot more light than the original LED chip for the same Watts and dissipate heat much more efficiently. This also means that you need to mod the front aluminum plate for the wider aperture (area) of the LED chip. The result is impressive, I have made some comparisons with a luxmeter and you get 40% more light for the same floodlight with the same LED driver.
Thank you for all the great videos and explanations.
I really like this dudes videos. I been a electronics technician for over 40 years.
Just changed power supply and LED chip in our outside 30W floodlight that I was not happy with, no more light than two 10w floodlights I have. Now put a 50w power supply and LED chip in and am very happy with the result. Until I saw your video I was not aware it was possible.
Thanks.
I knew I had watched you use a double layer of heat shrink some place or another. I am always picking something useful from your videos, this I put to work using MULTI layers of the stuff to build a plug for my laptop when the plug failed, as they seemed to do from time to time. This one failed right where it went into the plug, so as a sort of experiment, I cut away the entire cover from the plug and found that this particular model of DELL had 3 wires that ran to the steel plug, I figured out which wire went where and soldered them up, then began with the smallest heat shrink I could get over the plug, and went on with the next size, then the next, and so forth till I had a nice, thick solid plug lead that extended about 3.5 inches from the end of the plug. This has been working now for a few months without fail! I love it, it is more solid then the crap that came from DELL with the laptop, I was surprised that when I had cut off the plastic overlay, one wire was simply held against the plug barrel by the pressure of the plastic cover, now it is soldered nicely against the barrel and gives me great contact. I went this way since I had already been through three blasted power supplies for this laptop, the one that worked the best was a cheap china crap type that I soldered on the end from the DELL supply that went to shit about six weeks after the warrantee went off on the laptop. Thanks a million for these videos, I can't count the number of things you have taught me since I found your site, I now solder about 200% better then I did before watching your video's.
There are another couple of advantages of doing this. If you look at the small print of some of the specs for the LEDs then often the 100,000+ hour life is reduced to as little as 5000 if you are running at 100%. There are great gains in life to be gained from dropping down to 80% IE a factor of 10 or more. Reducing from 80% to 40% does not get another factor of 10 increase but it will probably double the life again. I've not checked for myself but I also believe that in the blue into phosphor type "white" LED's produce less actinic light at 80% capacity so 40% should be better for that also. I tend to run mine at about 70% (3W types run at a fraction over 2W).
6:23 In the U.S., the Ronson blowtorch company makes a reasonably cheap butane torch that comes with a miniature catalytic heater attachment. It blows out quite hot gas with no real flame. It's proven to be pretty excellent for shrinking heat-shrink, without the burning and soot that I used to get from using lighters.
I am from India. It is a Very good video. Highly helpful to DIY hobbyists. Thanks for the video.
I agree on the 1 spot for thermal paste, it works perfectly every time but there are some "experts" that claim you have to do it a certain way and spread it to this thickness and blah blah and it really makes me wonder how they just don't get it, 1 spot in the centre covers the centre and when you press evenly, it comes out the side, there is no room for gaps or air as the paste has pushed all out before itself.
Excellent stuff, mannie! I've just taken delivery of a few today and 1st one is up n running OK - older one starting to blink - interesting tips. I've opened one already with you - huh - I must have a better one - well stuck down , but properly earthed and more screws , etc - So I am happy - even happier learning with you t here. Not electrically illiterate but getting head around invisible electronics ! will be experimenting from now on. Have a couple of Lidl Multi LED workshop floods - going dim - but can't quite fathom what's wrong - ... will go back and investigate.
I really just want to hear Big Clive say "THIS! IS!! SPARTA!!!!"
😁😂🤣
I also only use lead based solder. Its also lees prone to whiskering. Which is why lead free solder is actually illegal in some applications.
Medical devices in hospitals and in aerospace its not allowed to use it.
A single blob of thermal compound is also the way to do it with CPUs.
Because some are concave, the others are convex. They are NEVER completely plane, and you prevent airpockets just like you mentioned.
Best 16minutes of my week!! Can't tell you how helpful this video is. Thanks for sharing. SUBSCRIBED ;)
I have never seen so called "Hot Melt" as hot as that!! That looks like it would hot melt your skin off if accidentally applied to fingers etc. Good lord man! :-)
P.s. I went to look for your cheap 10W LED Floods, and the price has just shot up :-(
Nice job ! i would put the second heat shrink tube longer than the first one.
Awesome … Very informative video …
beautiful screwdriver, mines red too!
Most excellent Scotty. You have a new subscriber.
great vids well explained and no use of the word soder
I bought 5 100w LED driverless chips like this one. I put them in series and used a simple mains (120v) rectifier, I also added a 10w 10ohm resistor in series. I get a voltage drop of approximately 23-24 volts across them and 0.33 amps of current even though they are rated for 30-36v and 3 amps. After running them for 10 minutes I measured a max temp of approximately 60 deg C on the chip face (heat sinked). I realize I am not getting anywhere near their capable capacity but they are still extremely bright and I believe it is better because I should not need a driver at 1/9th of their rated ampacity. I am going to mount them inside of a scrap aluminum outdoor wall mount I have and properly ground it. My concern at this point would be mostly if one chip were to short out the rest of the chip would take on the higher voltage. I've never seen this done before.. I guess because its mains voltage, but it seems like itll work well
The LEDs you have a the plain non-driverless type by the sound of it. You've created a simple resistive dropper series string of LEDs with effectively 10 sets of 50 LED chips in series. The low current means they should last a long time. If one or two LEDs fail short circuit the current may go up and the resistor will get a bit hotter.
Biggest issue may be the high mains voltage between the LEDs and the grounded heatsink. But it's certainly worth a try.
With these simple circuits you will see a significant intensity variation with mains voltage fluctuations.
bigclivedotcom thanks for replying. I hadnt thought of the mains fluctuation. I suppose i could try throwing in an inductor and cap to smooth it out or a metal oxide varistor. Ill see if its an issue. I checked continuity between the chips -/+ and theres no continuity to its mounting surface. I plan to just ground the aluminum housing.
By the way, my wife and I are big fans of your videos (her mostly because she likes the sound of your voice lol)
Wouldn't the hot melt glue liquefy again when the case heats up? I'd probably use a thermal tape to hold the driver on the casing on the metal side of it. It would also help in dissipating the heat the driver is producing.
Very good video. Thanks.
Interesting - i see you have a UNIOR snipping tool from Slovenia :) :)
I've been wondering why people bitch about lead free solder, and watching one of your videos about lighting answered my question, fancy that. do you always spout randomly useful information while soldering for the camera?
I never stop talking tech even while I'm not soldering.
+bigclivedotcom my understanding of the lead free solder was to do with the stuff getting dumped in landfill rather than the creation stage. but i could be wrong
+hornylink Course he does, but that's the best way to teach and to learn. You'll learn more from the spoutings of an expert like Big Clive Dot Com, than you will from a random video or book. I litterally happened to watch a vid which took my interest called "poundland LED's" I though, "Oh I didn't know PL made LED bulbs, I'll have a look and see the vid to see if they're any good as I wouldn't mind pur-chasing some for my abode" 4 hrs later I'm still on his fuckin channel, and actually feel confident enough to fuckin LED my house up myself! Seriously! This man is a fuckin ledge! And with a FUCKIN AWESOME Scottish accent to boot as well! What a voice and what an accent! Ya wanna think about doing some voiceover work, on the side, seriously Big Clive Dot Com. "In a word without LED'S. Only one man can make a difference....."
+Tim Ramich that's not a valid argument, lead is still toxic to the body. apples contain cyanide, almonds contain arsenic, it's still a bad idea to take cyanide/arsenic tablets.
+Tim Ramich The issue is that when you dump large amounts of lead (than what would normally be found) it can contaminate any ground water and run off water in the area. When it rains, the lead in the ground dissolves into the water, then runs off to other areas, even into the water supply.
Just because you can find it naturally doesn't mean it's fine to raise the concentration in the ground.
GREAT VIDEO. THANKS A LOT
Very interesting and you intelligence man
@ Clive if you still read these, where are you getting your LED chips now? I would like to find a reliable source as well.
Would be ok to power led like this with 20 v battery directly? I guess i would still need dc to dc led driver?
One should always remove old heatsink compound. The tinner the layer of compumd the better.
Thank you. Video helped a lot! Finding + and - on the chip. My led the chip went bad. Had only 25% compound on back. 30W and Hot glued in the chip. Four holes were there? I used them.
What type of hot melt glue did you use? It appeared so hot the glue was almost liquid. all of the hot glue guns I've used heat to a paste like consistency.
+Nick Schild I don't think it's the glue, I think it's the gun that heats it up to a higher temperature, I could be wrong though.
You could see steam coming off the glue. He may have used a variac to increase the power of his glue gun some...
+Nick Schild
It shows the difference between a decent hot glue gun and a cheap one. Mine just kind of oozes a warmer softer version of the stick that went in the other end. occasionally I've had to give it a blast with a hot air gun to get it to flow properly onto what I'm glueing.
For the cost of two pieces of standard black heat shrink, have you ever thought of using dual wall heat shrink instead? Or is it negligible in cost because you use cheaper heat shrink to begin with? I only use 3M FP-301, so it costs a bit less for me to go dual wall on such applications.
+Matthew Rosenblatt I keep a stock of different sizes of heatshrink for electronic applications, so it was really just playing safe with the extra layer.
Useful, thanks 👍😁
Excellent video! Thank you for uploading this... Thumbs up from me... Stay safe... Rico
Lead based. Great!!!!!
A more recent update: I bought a hand full of these types of lights. They have a combined circuit board of driver/power supply & LED chip now. Just an FYI
@10w that was running at its most effecient as you reduced it by 50%.the bigger driver is pushing them to full power just about.
But didn't he replace the led with a 50w?
Are there any particular brands of leds to avoid, or are they much of a muchness? I ask because I have to change/upgrade a couple of floodlights this week.
I'm afraid it's very random. Note that you can't use a higher power driver in a small case intended for lower dissipation.
Cheers for the reply. Just found some decent quality ones on Digikey. Yeah they're a good size case. Was going to mount them to a small aluminium plate inside the case to dissipate the heat slightly better
I'd love to do this but I don't have the confidence to work on electronics as I've never done anything like this before.
my question is, how can we buy lights like this and know they are decent quality? getting safe products just seems pot luck these days, paying more doesn't always mean better quality.
love your videos by the way, I can sit for hours watching you.
thank you.
It's very hard to tell what quality you're going to get from an online seller. For greater predictability you have to buy from a high profile retailer that gives a warranty.
that makes sense and probably the safest option.
thanks for the reply sir.
Too expensive. Some of these things go for £80 in the UK but £15 from eBay. The rest speaks for itself. If you can make me a 100W 850nm Infrared LED floodlight like this that will connect to 12v DC power pack (i.e. 28000mah Aukey) for £20 then I will buy them from you. If you can't then you're the reason why I buy from eBay!
Unless you're electrically competent I would always buy from a reputable local dealer, yeah it might cost you more but dodgy electrics are responsible for a lot of fires, 767 in the years 2012/13 in the UK and that was just lighting, in total there was 20,403 fires and 2,469 injuries, 46 deaths electrical related, you've got to think how much yours and your family life is worth.
Where did you get the statistic about 46 electrically related deaths in the UK? Are many of them attributed to smoke inhalation in fires believed to be of electrical origin? With the new industry of domestic installers being crash trained in two days with no proper mentored training it wouldn't surprise me if the number of electrical fires increases due to the Dunning Kruger effect.
nicely done. why did you not install all 4 screws to the cob? and have you compared both 20w chip and 50w chip side by side (run at 20w)?
Great !!!
Hello Clive, do you have tobe careful with the reflector as it may short the LED out ?Great informative video by the way, Thanks...
+Garry Nutter The reflector sits down on the face of the LED, but if the terminals at the side are folded up or have a lot of solder on them then they could short against the underside.
I watch some of your videos on CHINA LED lights, just no idea why they bother to put earth wire in it but not "WIRED"........
Use screw wire terminal blocks
Would you prefer LED floodlights like these over the LED globe flood light which is easier to replace bulbs?
Further to my earlier comment, FYI, I have just received a 30W Lamp from the same supplier, today. On investigation, NO EARTH despite a 3-core cable ( foot long only, as usual) . Not a big deal to fix - but a Pain - would rather have had lamp without cable so that I could install a longer cable whilst it's been opened. The Gland was plastered with hard white sealant, why?
It is a great pity that the marketplace is heading this way - unless this was OLD & dated stock ?? benefit of doubt but Life doesn't get a second chance when things go wrong.
graet video mate, i've a couple of 50w led floodlights with the led broken, i bought some new led and they work with 36v and 1.5a, i tested mi drivers and they give me 48v and 1.6 to 3 a
may that current break the new leds, there is any way to low the current?
Dear Clive, Could you use a solar cell controller to directly power a 23w led PIR module? Or would a voltage booster be required? The solar controller is attached to a 20w panel and a 12v car battery.
How did the heat dissipation work out? Is the fixture actually big enough to dissipate 20 watts?
It seems to do so OK.
what would happen if you would try to dim a LED with a driver like this using a PWM dimmer?
Didnt think you were allowed to solder wires(230 volt) together without additional mechanical(wago etc) connectors...?
If Driver is 20 or 30 watt ...LED is 50 watt ...Is there will be any problem???Need suggestion
Interesting video. I have purchased two of these 30w- lamps and I'm thinking of upgrading them. Is it possible to buy a kit consisting of a 100w-led module with appropriate driver and just hook it up in the same chassi? Or are there any problems, such as size complications (if the led modules are different in sizes, are they?), significant increase of heat etc. Would you even not recommend it? (I should point out that I have VERY limited knowledge about this)
The size of the heatsink varies according to the power of the LED. If you used a 100W LED in a 30W case it would probably result in the LED overheating and failing. It's better to "upgrade" a 100W light with a lower power driver like a 50W one driving the original 100W LED. That way the LED will run cooler and last much longer.
I have a few of these but in 100 watt. which are just 2 50 watt chips. do you think I could change them out to 100 watt chips and drivers? they are quite large. I was wondering about heat.
Disappointed you used a heat gun and not some form of home made mains gas powered mini flame thrower! :(
Hi, my LED driver is fried. Maybe a water seeping through. May I know will it impact the LED itself? Im thinking of changing the driver only
Hi Clive !
Good and informative video...thnx för that !
If it's ok I have a question.
If I where to make a "ledstrip" out of let's say 5 30w ledchips an solder them in a serie.
Could I aply the same logic as with one ledchip, to drive them with a 100w driver and get less light but better lifespan out of the chip ?
Yes
Awesome video. 1 question please. I bought a fake 50w (12v input from car battery) floodlight and i want to upgrade it. Do i need to do the same work like you did? (or i need to change only the chip? If yes please inform me what to look for!) thanks a lot for your time.
It would require the driver to be upgraded too, but if the case is not big enough to dissipate the heat it will damage the LED when it is used at higher power.
My hot glue (hot melt) is not a complete liquid like yours...That is odd
Bob Lob Law his was hotter then
Use 150w ones it Will melt like his
Thanks for answering my question. I should have said previously that the light I have has a separate compartment on the back which holds just the driver itself. But besides changing it to a 50w... Could I use a 30w driver with a 50w led and get 50w of light from it? Or do it have to be a 20w?
+jimmytk If you use a 30W driver with a 50W LED you will not get as much light as if you had used a 50W driver, but the LED will run cooler and operate more efficiently, so it would put out a bit more light than an actual 30W LED. the main advantage is that the heat dissipation would be spread across more LEDs, so the LED array should last longer and maintain its intensity longer too.
Great video. Did you say i cannot use a higher watt output driver to power a lower watt led? I'm planning on replacing my busted led driver.
You can't use a higher powered driver than the case is rated to dissipate the heat for. You can use a higher powered LED to spread the dissipation from the driver though. So if you have a 20W rated case you can use a 20W driver, but either a 20, 30, 50 or 100W LED.
Thanks for the information. How do i check how much power can my led(s) take? Really helpful video
Hello what’s your opinion on the led’s that don’t need a separate driver?
It passed the smoke test. All is good....
I recently bought a 30 and a 50w floodlights. I knew what issues to expect and look for. Both were earth connected but on the 30w the screw was over tightened and stripped threads causing intermittent contact also several of the housing scrrews were stripped.
The leads were too short.
The 50w light came with a 70w led chip, the driver label says 50w but the unit only draws 30w of power.
The 30w light had a 50w led chip installed, the driver was glued label down so i could not see the writing and idin't want to have to re-glue it so i didnt pop it up.
My question is will using led's with a higher rated led chip cause the driver to draw less power?
beu
A couple of years ago I bought three IKEA Ledsjo LED lamps. And now they are starting to flicker at start. I guess I should try to replace the constant current drivers then?
Or the diodes in the drivers^^
what should be the input voltage & current for 20 W led?
Where do you get good quality drivers and LEDs?
very interesting...so could I use a 20W flood light fixture and replace the driver and the LED to be 100W?
No. the case would not be able to dissipate that much heat and the LED and driver could be damaged. You can use a 100W LED in a 20W case if you use a 20W driver.
Hi Clive I have a sealed LED floodlight 20W Non replaceable with motion sensor below it purchased 15 months ago and used inside the house and all 28 LEDS have dimmed on it. Is there any way of getting into the unit to repair it as I don't see any screws just two holes in the back of the unit and what would cause this to happen?
One of the LEDs may have a black dot in it? These lights are often glued shut and the glass may break when an attempt is made to open it.
Hi, bigclivedotcom I have a 30w that's starting to become less an less bright. Its a lil less than a month old. I ordered a new 50w driver and 50w led to put into the 30w frame. Could I use the original 30w driver (if it's still good) with a 50w led? And have the proper brightness ? Thanks for sharing your vids... All the best to ya!
+jimmytk Yes, I'd actually not recommend using a 50W driver in a casing designed for 30W use as it may not dissipate the heat well enough and result in early failure of the LED. If anything you might consider fitting a 20W driver, as that will reduce the case heat and will still run 30, 50 and 100W LEDs, but run them at a lower level than they are intended, so they will generally last longer.
Is it possible to put a dimmer switch on a 30w Led Floodlight? or is that asking for trouble? If you think it's possible can you recommend a suitable dimmer switch please.
+Spooner Studios You'd best use a PWM module between the LED and PSU. you risk damaging the power supply with a dimmer.
hey my friend can you change a 120v to 12 volt and if so where do I get the parts
Can you recommend a good source or brand of driver? some of the cheap ones are horribly RF noisy and also seem to have short lives. I'd like to upgrade some of these before I fit them so I'm not having to go up ladders again 6 months later. Cheers.
The answere is late but i use the meanwell Drivers (11€/Driver) and they Work stable.
Is it possible to increase the current of the driver, even a little?
What about increasing an 850mA driver to a 950mA or a 600mA to a 700mA? Simple?
+Bill Lowe Most potted drivers are locked at a fixed current. You can probably get some that are slightly adjustable.
Shame, would be nice to be able to change a component or two to beef up a driver. They never seem to live up to the specs on the label!
I bought the same floodlight and after a while it started to act as a strobo light.Then it fixed itself and start to work as normal.Since yesterday it started again as a strobo light,is it about driver or LED panel?
+Rada Separevic Maybe driver, but sometimes the LED bond connections failing causing sections to strobe.
i just thought to myself, if this is true 20w led, could i replace the led with a better 20w led? so its like a half hour job and cheapest? isee some 200w ones id like turn in to a grow light, all id have to do is soldier the new led?
You can use a better LED if you can find one.
I just removed an LED and its driver from one working light into another housing that was exactly the same. I did it because I wanted to utilize a housing unit that was in a lot better shape. I hooked everything up in exactly the same way. Now when I power up my LED blink. I did not apply new heat sink compound. Could that be a possible issue for my problem?
I should say that the blinking occurs immediately after powering up and continues constantly. I have tried a couple of different drivers and the problem persists.
Is it a 10W LED? Some are configured for about 9V at 1A (3 series by 3 parallel) and others for 27V at 350mA (all in series). Using the wrong LED will cause the drivers to pulse because they detect their output being pulled down to a lower voltage than normal.
@@BigClive It's a HUSKY 3500 lumen worklight. I literally took the driver and LED from one of the housings and put it into another identical housing. Everything is wired exactly the same.
what would cause my led grow lite flicker? some chips flicker some dont wtf?
That's failing LEDs in a series parallel array.
Hey I have a question, if I was to buy a 50w spot light similar to the one in your video, could i change out the existing 50w led chip with another 50w chip? As long as it is 50w it should work right?
+Andrew Pierce Yes, if it's the same form factor then it will have 5 rows of ten LED chips and you can interchange LEDs including colours and the specialist plant-growth or high CRI ones.
what the size wire you used when you change the short one that comes with the LED lights
+Shane S 0.75mm CSA (UK)
Do you have circuit diagram of LED Driver 20 w?
what do I use to solder leads on to led driver. Wire solder is not sticking. Don't wanna mess up led. Google sayd wire glue. Help I'm kinda like a novice.
If you're trying to solder onto an LED module with an aluminium base then it helps to heat up the base first. I use a clothes iron upside down.
The base is plastic
I have an 50w reflektor. And one of the days it started blinking (flashing). It seems that just half of the led module is lighting up. What could be the problem? Why the blinking effect?
This is a common problem. The bond wires for the rows of LEDs break from the internal bars. You will need to put in a new LED.
Thank you mate! ;) Haven't find a response before. I also have a T8 tube that is blinking very fast but it seems that each led is working. Maybe something similar could be the problem. I will measure each led to see if it's working properly
what model glue gun you using i need one like that mines rubbish :), good vid
+FERNOXMD This one dribbles glue everywhere. I've never really come across a really good glue gun.
thanks for letting me know :) cheers
my brother uses the fat part of the soldering iron to melt his heatshrink
+gmansplit I use that technique too when I don't have a hot air pen handy.
do you have any links to the lamps and the led+drivers that you changed? lot of sellers around, so would be nice to know where to get the correct ones, and who to avoid.
So far, all the LEDs and drivers bought on their own from various suppliers seem to be OK. It just seems to be where the components are hidden in end products that they cheat the ratings.
ok, if one need to replace the driver it's important to get something that fits inside this compartment.
I have bought various 10w leds loose, and found that there are at least two type, which have different drive voltage, but from 20watts and up, it's maybe another story?
I want to get better lighting for my workplace also, and these lowprofile lamps looks good for that usage.
The 20w lamps I find is about £15 each, wonder if that is reasonable, and will give me an ok lamp, or most probably someone with wrong drivers..
Asbjørn Mikkelsen The 10W LEDs are available either with all the LEDs in series (about 27V) or in a 3x3 parallel series array (about 9V). The 20W and upwards all seem to use parallel strings of 10 LEDs, so their voltage tends to be predictable at around 30V. It's hard to tell if a light you order is going to be rated at 20W or not until you have it and test it.
How much was that Driver ? What size driver should I use , for a 100 watt LED . (Chinese 😲 ).
Do the math P = I*U :)
13 to 14 mins he's just mumbling into his crotch about screws, and this is why we love bigclive.
sir, how to repair its driver of 50 watts flood light. please show video in hindi
I want to get a work bench when I'm older, in currently 13 (14 in a couple of months)
A work bench is any flat surface like a table. If you work on a tray it can be relocated with all your stuff on it.
Okay, thanks for the tips Clive 👌👍
What will be the voltage output of a 50w Led driver?
Typically they output between 24V to 40V at about 1.5A and regulate the current, so the voltage will depend on the load.
what would happen if you use a 20w driver with a 50w lamp ? what would go first or would it just not be bright enough ?
The drivers just put out a current limited and voltage capped supply. All that would happen is the 50W LED would run at 20W and as such it would run cooler and potentially last longer.
thanks clive
what size potentiometer would you use with a 50w 30vdc driver to dimm a 50w lamp, it its over my workbench heatsink and fan.
Do you know if this could be done to convert and DC powered LED light to an AC powered LED light?
+Kaleb Bessler You can put a mains voltage driver in if there's enough room for it.
Thanks Big Clive. You do not have a video showing this do you?
It would be pretty much as shown in this video. Just put in a new cable and connect the ground wire to the case, and the live/neutral to the mains input of the driver. Then connect the DC output leads to a suitable LED.
@bigclivedotcom I love your videos mate, I am learning heaps! Is there a way to add several 10w chips instead of 1x 50w chip? E.g. 3x cool white, 1x red 1x blue for plant growth while still maintaining a good colour rendering for nice viewing? Is such a thing possible all in a single housing? Cheers!
You get special versions of the LEDs for plants. They give off a strong purple light.
You basically did the same thing they did. You powered a 50 watt led with a 20 watt power supply. Why not buy a 50 watt fixture and get the same result?
Anyone know where to get just the housing to put your own LED/driver in?
Kevron Rees You might be able to source them from a Chinese supplier, but for small quantities it would probably be significantly cheaper just buying the complete light and gutting it.
Kevron Rees Yes.
I was wondering can i do a 50w driver with a 100w led? Or is it better a 50w driver with 50w led?
Yes. you can use a lower power driver. The combined forward voltage of the 20-100W LEDs is similar, but the current is different. with a 100W LED on a 50W supply the LED would be run at half current and give out just over half the light.
bigclivedotcom so then a 100w led needs a 100w supply?
+Mod Mike No. 100w would be the maximum driver you could use with a 100W LED. But you could use it with lower power drivers too.
ok i did one with a 100w and 50w driver im wondering now what would give more light output my current setup or a 50w with a 50w driver.
+Mod Mike The 100W LED array with a 50W driver will theoretical produce more light than if you had used a 50W LED as the 100W array is being driven at half its rating and will be more efficient. Under-running LEDs gives greater efficiency, lower degradation over time and higher lifespan.
you got something against little 12v drills for removing screws? keeps the video going ya know.
And where I can found LED Drivers?
Ebay or Aliexpress. But be wary of Aliexpress, the sellers are often cheats and shipping takes ages.
*****
Bullshit. The buyer protection on Ali is dogshit. Everything hinges on a "service rep" that doesnt know their ass from a working electronic product believing that the product was defective.
*****
You dont need to be an engineer to know when an LED doesnt work man. I've got a couple videos left up on my channel that I had to use to try to dispute sellers on Ali.
They treat you like shit until you leave a bad review with pictures and links to videos showing the product not working.
That's not just being a tradesman, that's being a bad person at best, and a scammer at worst.
All that said, I still do buy from Ali, but I just go into it expecting to be scammed, and build that into the cost of entry.
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If they dont test them, then I expect them to be reasonable about disputes.
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