So good to finally find tutorials from someone who can actually be bothered to take the time and care to explain every step in proper detail. We need more of this stuff on UA-cam. Thank you!
Thank you, and I'm sorry. It isn't that hard to be honest, if you remove the rubber bung on the swingarm you can help by moving the universal joint a little so the shaft slides in, but usually as you put the final drive back in with the shaft, it finds it's way... Sorry again
I've just paid to have the swing arm taken out and replaced on my virago 535, if I'd have seen your video first I'd have done it myself, in fact you've inspired me to do the same job on my 1983 honda 550 nighthawk, I shall certainly look out for your videos in future, as you do make things look so simple, carry on the good work, S Burton
Thank you very much for the kind words. Well if you have a 535 then I recommend to subscribe because I just started a full rebuild series about it... Engine, swingarm, forks, bearings, brakes... Pretty much everything. If you have the confidence, and the tools do your Honda... Pretty sure there are a few videos out there which will help you. Good luck
Couple of questions before I order the parts you've listed ; I'm worried about the precision fit of the Chinese bearing extractor tool you recommend, because I personally don't have the means for grinding it down if, like you say, it doesn't fit properly, (my head will explode if this happens!), and does the extractor kit have to be that big if you only need one or two sizes out of the box? Also, what's the hinged, winged tool in the extractor kit for? -Where do you get the brass rods for carefully tapping the bearing races into position? -When the swing arm is finally back from the powder coaters, I'm guessing the insides will be coated in overspray. What's the best way to remove this? Would a Dremel with a sanding tool be ok? -Do you recommend an Allen key set for the 3/4" torque wrench? Thanks again!
Omg, so many questions.. So Yes that bearing puller kit is not the best, but actually quite strong. I decided to grind the puller which was super close to go in, because I didn't want to spread out too much the 1 size smaller one (unfortunately the step is fairly big) I think it wouldn't have broke though. "Grinding it down" is not a big deal if you at least have an angle grinder if not still can use a file but you'd need a vice. The hinged one is the same stuff as the sliding hammer, but instead of shocks caused by the hammer, that one pulls it out slowly by turning the threaded bar and the legs sitting on the surface, sorry hard to explain. For the brass or copper rod just go on ebay and get like a 12mm diameter one 100-200mm long (5 quid maybe) brass is a little tougher than copper but copper is good too. Mallets have copper inserts so... 🤔😉 You don't have to get the same puller kit I linked here, if there is a smaller version with less pullers but the size is good, then get that, the reason I have this because I might need it for engine work in the future so it made sense to get this. Definitely recommend to get allen head sockets for the torque wrench, nearly all the bolts on/in the engine is allen (cap) head.. Yes the dremel tool is a good choice however be careful not to actually grind the bearing pocket (spindle hole) because then the bearing will be loose, so careful and take your time. Best is if you tell the coater to use silicone plugs and put bolts in the threads, also plug the hole where the spindle goes through, took me half day to clean it out because he forgot to plug it.. 🤦♂️ Jeez I hope I answered everything... 😂
Great videos and infos about xv' s 👌 Can you please give me some tips,where can I buy the same kind of rear side bags supporters, as this ones in your video? ✌️
Hello, thank you. As for the bag brackets unfortunately not many around. I think your best bet is ebay and Facebook marketplace (be careful there, 90% are scams, never buy anything you can't collect and pay in person, speaking from experience 🤦♂️) If you can get a rusty one, there is always an option to re-chrome it if needed, and it will keep it's value considering less and less are available (bikes and accessories) sorry not much of a help this time. Thanks again for watching my video.
Hi. If you have the shocks off with the final drive, then it's really easy to move the swingarm, up-down and left-right, if you feel anything but smooth operation then it's time to swap them. Sideways shouldn't be any movement whatsoever, up-down if feel jerky or jumping then you need to look at it. Also a tell tale if you riding and let's say accelerate, then brake with the REAR brake and if you feel or hear a clunk then it's loose or worn. Hope this helps 👍🔧
So good to finally find tutorials from someone who can actually be bothered to take the time and care to explain every step in proper detail. We need more of this stuff on UA-cam. Thank you!
Thank you... It really means a lot to me when people appreciate what I do. I'm glad it helped you
Awesome video! Can't wait to see what else you got up your sleeve!
Thanks man.. I hope I can start the real project in the next few weeks... 😉🔧
Bravo, very useful, I have my xv 1100 virago and your video serial is very useful to me, thank you very much
Awesome! Useful video.
Thank you, here to help😉
Great quality information and video Lorant, keep them coming !!
Thank you. I'm glad you liked it. I'll do my best to keep bringing quality content for you guys 😉🔧
Great job. I loved it. As usual :)
Thank you. Really appreciate it 🔧😉
Great video, I just wished you would have shown putting the splines back in, is it fiddly?
Thank you, and I'm sorry. It isn't that hard to be honest, if you remove the rubber bung on the swingarm you can help by moving the universal joint a little so the shaft slides in, but usually as you put the final drive back in with the shaft, it finds it's way... Sorry again
I've just paid to have the swing arm taken out and replaced on my virago 535, if I'd have seen your video first I'd have done it myself, in fact you've inspired me to do the same job on my 1983 honda 550 nighthawk, I shall certainly look out for your videos in future, as you do make things look so simple, carry on the good work, S Burton
Thank you very much for the kind words. Well if you have a 535 then I recommend to subscribe because I just started a full rebuild series about it... Engine, swingarm, forks, bearings, brakes... Pretty much everything. If you have the confidence, and the tools do your Honda... Pretty sure there are a few videos out there which will help you. Good luck
Is it possible to write the torque value when tightening the screw? It has been very nice and thank you very much
Hi thank you for the suggestion, I'll see if I can add it now, if not then from my next videos I'll try to remember...
Couple of questions before I order the parts you've listed ; I'm worried about the precision fit of the Chinese bearing extractor tool you recommend, because I personally don't have the means for grinding it down if, like you say, it doesn't fit properly, (my head will explode if this happens!), and does the extractor kit have to be that big if you only need one or two sizes out of the box? Also, what's the hinged, winged tool in the extractor kit for?
-Where do you get the brass rods for carefully tapping the bearing races into position?
-When the swing arm is finally back from the powder coaters, I'm guessing the insides will be coated in overspray. What's the best way to remove this? Would a Dremel with a sanding tool be ok?
-Do you recommend an Allen key set for the 3/4" torque wrench?
Thanks again!
Omg, so many questions.. So
Yes that bearing puller kit is not the best, but actually quite strong. I decided to grind the puller which was super close to go in, because I didn't want to spread out too much the 1 size smaller one (unfortunately the step is fairly big) I think it wouldn't have broke though. "Grinding it down" is not a big deal if you at least have an angle grinder if not still can use a file but you'd need a vice.
The hinged one is the same stuff as the sliding hammer, but instead of shocks caused by the hammer, that one pulls it out slowly by turning the threaded bar and the legs sitting on the surface, sorry hard to explain.
For the brass or copper rod just go on ebay and get like a 12mm diameter one 100-200mm long (5 quid maybe) brass is a little tougher than copper but copper is good too. Mallets have copper inserts so... 🤔😉
You don't have to get the same puller kit I linked here, if there is a smaller version with less pullers but the size is good, then get that, the reason I have this because I might need it for engine work in the future so it made sense to get this.
Definitely recommend to get allen head sockets for the torque wrench, nearly all the bolts on/in the engine is allen (cap) head..
Yes the dremel tool is a good choice however be careful not to actually grind the bearing pocket (spindle hole) because then the bearing will be loose, so careful and take your time. Best is if you tell the coater to use silicone plugs and put bolts in the threads, also plug the hole where the spindle goes through, took me half day to clean it out because he forgot to plug it.. 🤦♂️
Jeez I hope I answered everything... 😂
@@MidlandCruiser I reckon! Thank you so much! I'm all set, let's those parts ordered.
Great videos and infos about xv' s 👌
Can you please give me some tips,where can I buy the same kind of rear side bags supporters, as this ones in your video? ✌️
Hello, thank you. As for the bag brackets unfortunately not many around. I think your best bet is ebay and Facebook marketplace (be careful there, 90% are scams, never buy anything you can't collect and pay in person, speaking from experience 🤦♂️)
If you can get a rusty one, there is always an option to re-chrome it if needed, and it will keep it's value considering less and less are available (bikes and accessories) sorry not much of a help this time. Thanks again for watching my video.
@@MidlandCruiser thx, I'll check that net sides 👍 Have a calm winter and exciting riding season ahead.
chlape proč si nepoužil kroužek z toho puvodího ?
how do you know when its time to do the bearings in the swing arm?
i just figured it out, side to side movement. thanks. very informative.
Hi. If you have the shocks off with the final drive, then it's really easy to move the swingarm, up-down and left-right, if you feel anything but smooth operation then it's time to swap them. Sideways shouldn't be any movement whatsoever, up-down if feel jerky or jumping then you need to look at it. Also a tell tale if you riding and let's say accelerate, then brake with the REAR brake and if you feel or hear a clunk then it's loose or worn. Hope this helps 👍🔧
What calender is that?
😁 It's awesome isn't it? I think it's 2019 but left it there because.... Well nice to look at 👍