Gotta say this is the best and only video i found on this exact model. Thank you for taking the time to do this. It Helped me figure out what i was missing. The plate the governor slides thru was what i ended up making. Even with this being 11 years old from making video, It still helping people. Take care.
I have the same old tiller and the ex owner was messing with the carburetor so I’m going to buy a new one I really enjoy watching over and over the video because you show steps by steps about how to put everything together Master! Thanks for your help 😊
Thank you for posting this. I borrowed a friends rototiller that would not run. I had to do a complete carb rebuild and cleaning. This video really helped. I got it rebuilt, put back (no extra parts left over) and the garden rototilled today.
After dismantling and rebuilding my 1976 Briggs Engine several times now I’ve found the best way is 1. governor spring on arm 2. linkage on carburettor to governor arm 3. Link bar to governor arm end hole with spring in second hole 4. Links to carb 5. Carb screwed to engine chassy 6. Petrol tank to carb 7. Link and spring to Tank throttle. 7 Bolt tank in place. 8. Set max governor throttle position. Job done.
Sweet. I tore into one of these, cleaned it all up and didn't get to this step because I had to move. I threw it all in a container... now I can get it together thanks to this vid. Big Thanks!
Thank you. It's both interesting and comical watching you try to figure out the same issues and questions with the linkage configurations that I am having while reassembling my 4 hp B&S which seems almost identical. I appreciate the extra time you take, without abbreviations, to show the connection locations and sequences.
Just what I need to put this back together! I did make a couple mistakes but they are easily fixed. Bought a carb kit and that goes on too. Now I almost hope for snow just to make quick work of it. Thanks much!
Thanks for making and posting this video!! This really helped me get my old hand me down tiller running again. It's great to see all of the inner workings before I disassmbled everything. Made it much easier to put back together.
Thanks, your video helped me figure out where to put that little spring at the bottom of the tank to the governor arm. It fell off when I removed the tank and I didn't know where to put it back. My engine is the exactly the same. I just took it apart tonight and my breather tube from the valve cover to the carb had a metal clamp holding it in place. It is held in place by one of the screws that holds the carb onto the gas tank. Great video, it saved my *##.
Priceless - got my Sears air compressor working with a new carburetor - this video was invaluable. Wondering in there's any more detailed video on the springs at the bottom end of the linkages - the engine is supposed to throttle back once the tank-pressure has been reached, but mine keeps going at the same speed as it was.
Nice video, and the new one is even better. Trying to put linkage together on a B&S 1302XX series engine from a Coleman Powermate generator. Pretty similar, but there is a part that goes to mine that I haven't seen on yours. It's very similar to but in addition to the geared pivot linkage on the bottom of the fuel tank mounting bracket. It has a threaded screw that passes through the body of the linkage with an adjustable nut on one side and a spring on the other side of a flange on the fitting. Complicated to describe I know. Anyway, your videos have shown me how to put the majority back together correctly so maybe a little trial and error will see me through the rest.
thank you so much. I took off my gas tank and carb to clean them, then forgot how the linkage went. Thanks so much, now I can put it back together. I subscribed, so maybe in the summer I will rebuild everything.
Glad to know I'm not the only one who struggles putting all the carb linkages, fuel tank, and carburetor on at the same time. It's always the same internal conversation. "Well it came apart easy... I don't remember any special sequences..." After the third attempt I finally figure it all out. LOL.
Good video Sir. A customer just emailed me looking for a carb for one of these engines. Partstree has it for 118 bucks. a tad spendy. Thank you for taking the time to do the video, Monte
I am glad to have helped. I too find partstree spendy, I use partstree to find the part number (off their diagrams) then I google that number to find a better price. Sorry partstree. Thank you for watching.
Here for $68.31 >>>> www.amazon.com/Briggs-Stratton-498298-Carburetor-Replaces/dp/B001768ULM/ref=sr_1_11?s=lawn-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1401252487&sr=1-11&keywords=Briggs+%26+Stratton+Carburetor
The exact same job I did on an Mtd leaf vac.Need two pairs of hands and that right hand carb mount bolt is a pain.Just hope I have the linkages on right.Thanks just the video I needed.
The rod that you pull upward for choke, is that the only use for that that or is that part of the governor system, I have a kemp shredder that have that engine and I can't get the RPM high enough to engage the pulley
I bought a tiller that never ran right and always dies as soon as you drop it in the ground.... I now know that I’m missing linkage for the governor. Mine only has one linkage bar coming up. And the new carb I put on doesn’t have the front linkage connector.
I bought a new carb for mine. It comes with a dire warning NOT to take the arm off of the carburetor that you removed to hook the throttle linkage to the governor arm ( Will do irreparable damage to the carb.) The threads inside the carb for the shoulder bolt seem to be a one time ting unless your lucky. . I did like you said on my old carb and the shoulder bolt is now stuck in the carb. The linkage will still pivot, but the only way to ever get it out would be to pull it with something. On the new carb I put the rod in with the carb link and governor lever with the carb off of the tank loosely bolt the carb to the engine and bring the tank up from below and and attach it to the carb.
It has the manual choke on the side of the carb. , hard to see it in the photo. Mine came with no issues, other than there were no gaskets for the intake to the block or air filter. www.amazon.com/Briggs-Stratton-397135-Carburetor/dp/B002WO013S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1536616778&sr=8-1&keywords=Briggs+%26+Stratton+397135+Carburetor
Hi, thanks for the intel. I have a 100202 from a simplicity tiller.... long story short I've torn it down and needed (much needed) some insight. THanKs.
I bet I already have a link to that page. Is it outdoorpowerinfoDOTcom? It is a terrific source for carb rebuild info. I am also partial to donyboy73 videos. I visit all the time to learn learn learn. Thanks again for watching.
Hi, i have rotortiller with this motor and i'm having trouble to find the idler tensioner, the inner one for the wider belt, do you have any idea where i can buy one?
basically where the cabureta sits on top of the fuel tank, I get oil coming out from between the tank and cabureta. I was wondering is a simple fix or has the engine had it?any advice you may have is very great fully received. thanks gav
+Gavin Morris Just guessing here, but the only way that I can see oil coming from under the carb, is if the oil is coming from the breather tube. Other than that, I don't know how oil would get there.
I do not have a carb rebuild video for this particular carb. I am planning on it with another engine that has the same carb. But I don't know how soon I will get that done. Thanks for watching.
Hi - I have a B&S 131232 but the date code is gone. My motor looks exactly like yours - any way you could take a quick look at this picture to see if you could estimate the year of my motor? - Thanks very much :)
my ? is about the gasket between the carb.and gas tank i just bought one and also bought one a year ago anyways are you suppose to put gasket seal around it last year i didnt and gas started to leak out between the tank and carb im hoping you maybe could get back to me thak you
In this video, you appear to be using the gas tank that you purchased used. It has been cleaned and painted very nicely. Your entire engine appears to be repainted the same color and it all matches. Great job. What procedures and specific primer/paint brands/type did you use for the tank and the entire engine for that matter?
The engine block was cleaned in an industrial parts washer by a friend. For some parts, I used a paint remover like Zip Strip. Everything was then sanded/scraped and washed in a degreaser like Simple Green or Purple Power. I got it as clean as I could. I made sure that everything was dry using an air compressor and then my wife's hair dryer. I used high temp engine paint and primer that I bought at a local auto parts store. I don't remember the brand but it was approximately $7 per spray can. Thanks for watching.
My engine is 130202 1672 02 Ser # 83110906. Would some please email me a still picture where the spring and carb/governor linkage goes? I don't have the threaded rod part that is illustrated in the video. Please I need help. It is very difficult from the side to tell where the spring and control rod goes. Thanks
I agree with another commenter about the patients you have in tackling this job. The linkage setup for these style updraft carbs must have been conceived and designed after a nightmare someone had, perhaps after eating bad sushi. B&S Good. This carb.design Bad. My Tiller has never been the same after I replaced the carb. I have watched a lot of videos but when I get in the middle of this I loose it. Makes me want to slap someone!
If you look at the bottom edge of the engine, you will see a bolt with a square head. There should be two, one on the left bottom edge and one on the right bottom edge. Those are the drain plugs. Thanks for watching.
+tducketts It is Briggs and Stratton part number 19305. I don't think it's available any longer but I bet you can track one down somewhere. Thanks for watching.
sblg43 Hey thank YOU for the video. I ripped my tiller apart last fall and decided to put it back together tomorrow. $20 buy that had no spark, replaced coil and it ran. The carb needed a real good clean and a new diaphragm.
In case anyone goes looking for that tool, this is what it looks like. I'm assuming you use it on a 90 degree angle. briggsandstrattonairfilters.com/images/19305.jpg
I understand both sides of that comment. Although editing could've been a choice, I'd still have respect for the video and the person making it. This, that said, shit happens to all of us sometimes and also to the best, and I don't care how good you may be. Overall it's a decent video that gets the point across ..jus saying!
These engines usually have the Model, Type and Serial numbers stamped on the engine shroud (the part that covers the flywheel and ignition). Here is a link to another video of mine that may help ua-cam.com/video/chw0k1hBEsc/v-deo.htmlm10s
+MartyMartin87 Briggs and Stratton engines have "Model, Type and Code" numbers. For example: Model 110412-0154-E1 Code 000821FD - If you look at the CODE number - the first two digits are the last two digits of the year of manufacture - this CODE shows 00 which means the year 2000. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching.
I have scoured the internet and found nothing to help date an engine without the date code. These 5HP horizontal engines sold by the millions (literally) over many years. Your engine #131232: This designates the engine as (13) Cubic Inches; (1) Basic Design Series 2; (2) Horizontal Crankshaft w/ Pulsa-Jet Carburetor & Pneumatic or Mechanical Governor; (3) Ball Bearing, Flange Mounting, Splash Lube; (2) Rewind Starter My engine doesn't have the Ball Bearings. Sorry I couldn't help more.
Well now, I just googled that carb and found that they are a lot less expensive than they used to be. It seems that you can now get them for less than $20. Amazon or Ebay!
Can you tell me the rotation of this motor when it runs.. clockwise or counter clockwise. I think the Honda I have runs clockwise. I pull start it, pulling toward the fuel tank/carburator.
These engines usually have the Model, Type and Serial numbers stamped on the engine shroud (the part that covers the flywheel and ignition). Here is a link to another video of mine that may help ua-cam.com/video/chw0k1hBEsc/v-deo.htmlm10s
Gotta say this is the best and only video i found on this exact model. Thank you for taking the time to do this. It Helped me figure out what i was missing. The plate the governor slides thru was what i ended up making. Even with this being 11 years old from making video, It still helping people. Take care.
Thanks for your kind comments and thanks for watching!
Life Saver. I made the mistake of not taking photos before disassembly and this saved me.
I've watched my own videos to remind myself too! Thanks for watching!
I have the same old tiller and the ex owner was messing with the carburetor so I’m going to buy a new one
I really enjoy watching over and over the video because you show steps by steps about how to put everything together
Master!
Thanks for your help 😊
@@hec--tor3519 happy to help. Thanks for watching
Thank you for posting this. I borrowed a friends rototiller that would not run. I had to do a complete carb rebuild and cleaning. This video really helped. I got it rebuilt, put back (no extra parts left over) and the garden rototilled today.
After dismantling and rebuilding my 1976 Briggs Engine several times now I’ve found the best way is 1. governor spring on arm 2. linkage on carburettor to governor arm 3. Link bar to governor arm end hole with spring in second hole 4. Links to carb 5. Carb screwed to engine chassy 6. Petrol tank to carb 7. Link and spring to Tank throttle. 7 Bolt tank in place. 8. Set max governor throttle position. Job done.
Sweet. I tore into one of these, cleaned it all up and didn't get to this step because I had to move. I threw it all in a container... now I can get it together thanks to this vid. Big Thanks!
You are welcome and thanks for watching!
Thank you. It's both interesting and comical watching you try to figure out the same issues and questions with the linkage configurations that I am having while reassembling my 4 hp B&S which seems almost identical. I appreciate the extra time you take, without abbreviations, to show the connection locations and sequences.
Thanks for watching - happy to help!
instaBlaster.
Just what I need to put this back together! I did make a couple mistakes but they are easily fixed. Bought a carb kit and that goes on too. Now I almost hope for snow just to make quick work of it. Thanks much!
Your are welcome! Hope you get the snow you want! Thanks for watching.
@@RealManSkills much better to put that bottom bolt for the carb in first, I would not have thought of that.
Thanks for making and posting this video!!
This really helped me get my old hand me down tiller running again. It's great to see all of the inner workings before I disassmbled everything. Made it much easier to put back together.
Jeff Regier Hey, thanks for watching. Happy to help!
Thanks, your video helped me figure out where to put that little spring at the bottom of the tank to the governor arm. It fell off when I removed the tank and I didn't know where to put it back. My engine is the exactly the same. I just took it apart tonight and my breather tube from the valve cover to the carb had a metal clamp holding it in place. It is held in place by one of the screws that holds the carb onto the gas tank. Great video, it saved my *##.
Priceless - got my Sears air compressor working with a new carburetor - this video was invaluable. Wondering in there's any more detailed video on the springs at the bottom end of the linkages - the engine is supposed to throttle back once the tank-pressure has been reached, but mine keeps going at the same speed as it was.
Thanks for watching! I don't have any videos of gasoline engines that are on compressors. Sorry
😊 will try draining some of the oil and see if that works.thank you for all your help.gav
Nice video, and the new one is even better. Trying to put linkage together on a B&S 1302XX series engine from a Coleman Powermate generator. Pretty similar, but there is a part that goes to mine that I haven't seen on yours. It's very similar to but in addition to the geared pivot linkage on the bottom of the fuel tank mounting bracket. It has a threaded screw that passes through the body of the linkage with an adjustable nut on one side and a spring on the other side of a flange on the fitting. Complicated to describe I know. Anyway, your videos have shown me how to put the majority back together correctly so maybe a little trial and error will see me through the rest.
Thanks for watching! I am sure you will figure it out. Sometimes it gets intimidating but turns out not so bad after all.
thank you so much. I took off my gas tank and carb to clean them, then forgot how the linkage went. Thanks so much, now I can put it back together. I subscribed, so maybe in the summer I will rebuild everything.
Thanks for watching. I am sure you will do well in the summer.
This was a great series, Keep doing them. Really enjoyed this, Thank you !!
tractorman604 Thanks for watching - I aim to please!
Glad to know I'm not the only one who struggles putting all the carb linkages, fuel tank, and carburetor on at the same time. It's always the same internal conversation. "Well it came apart easy... I don't remember any special sequences..." After the third attempt I finally figure it all out. LOL.
Shain Andrews Glad that it all came together for you! Thanks for watching.
Thanks for watching. Happy to help.
Thank you! Great step by step and explanations why.👌
Thanks for watching!
You have a lot of patience. Thanks.
Good video Sir. A customer just emailed me looking for a carb for one of these engines. Partstree has it for 118 bucks. a tad spendy. Thank you for taking the time to do the video, Monte
I am glad to have helped. I too find partstree spendy, I use partstree to find the part number (off their diagrams) then I google that number to find a better price. Sorry partstree. Thank you for watching.
Here for $68.31 >>>> www.amazon.com/Briggs-Stratton-498298-Carburetor-Replaces/dp/B001768ULM/ref=sr_1_11?s=lawn-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1401252487&sr=1-11&keywords=Briggs+%26+Stratton+Carburetor
The exact same job I did on an Mtd leaf vac.Need two pairs of hands and that right hand carb mount bolt is a pain.Just hope I have the linkages on right.Thanks just the video I needed.
Thanks for watching!
Marc Law I hate that damn bolt, too. I like the idea of swapping it out for an Allen bolt. I have an old Yardman leaf blower, wish me luck...
Excellent vid on this particular linkage - Thanks
Thank you for watching!
Thanks so much sblg43,I'm 14,and building a go kart with this engine haha,thanks again!!!
Got a 130297 1665 01 off a Troy Bilt tiller. Engine was built in 1983. I assume this will be close to the same engine? Very helpful video and thanks!
Yes, I think you are correct. Thanks for watching.
The rod that you pull upward for choke, is that the only use for that that or is that part of the governor system, I have a kemp shredder that have that engine and I can't get the RPM high enough to engage the pulley
It's been awhile since I had that engine around. But I think that rod is also the speed control. Hope you figure it out. Thanks for watching.
I bought a tiller that never ran right and always dies as soon as you drop it in the ground.... I now know that I’m missing linkage for the governor. Mine only has one linkage bar coming up. And the new carb I put on doesn’t have the front linkage connector.
I've got a 67 4 horse thanks ghat was very helpful
Thanks for watching!
Thanks for watching, I am happy to help. Have fun!
I bought a new carb for mine. It comes with a dire warning NOT to take the arm off of the carburetor that you removed to hook the throttle linkage to the governor arm ( Will do irreparable damage to the carb.) The threads inside the carb for the shoulder bolt seem to be a one time ting unless your lucky. . I did like you said on my old carb and the shoulder bolt is now stuck in the carb. The linkage will still pivot, but the only way to ever get it out would be to pull it with something. On the new carb I put the rod in with the carb link and governor lever with the carb off of the tank loosely bolt the carb to the engine and bring the tank up from below and and attach it to the carb.
Ron52G do you have a part number for that carb? I cant seem to find one
It has the manual choke on the side of the carb. , hard to see it in the photo. Mine came with no issues, other than there were no gaskets for the intake to the block or air filter.
www.amazon.com/Briggs-Stratton-397135-Carburetor/dp/B002WO013S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1536616778&sr=8-1&keywords=Briggs+%26+Stratton+397135+Carburetor
Ron52g im glad i found that comment ive been wondering where i would find that carb
Wow..this really helped me with my old snow blower! Thank you~!!!!
Thanks for watching! Glad I could help.
Hi, thanks for the intel. I have a 100202 from a simplicity tiller.... long story short I've torn it down and needed (much needed) some insight. THanKs.
I bet I already have a link to that page. Is it outdoorpowerinfoDOTcom? It is a terrific source for carb rebuild info. I am also partial to donyboy73 videos. I visit all the time to learn learn learn. Thanks again for watching.
Happy to help, thanks for watching!
Hi, i have rotortiller with this motor and i'm having trouble to find the idler tensioner, the inner one for the wider belt, do you have any idea where i can buy one?
Thanks! This helped a lot!
Thanks for watching!
basically where the cabureta sits on top of the fuel tank, I get oil coming out from between the tank and cabureta. I was wondering is a simple fix or has the engine had it?any advice you may have is very great fully received. thanks gav
+Gavin Morris Just guessing here, but the only way that I can see oil coming from under the carb, is if the oil is coming from the breather tube. Other than that, I don't know how oil would get there.
Thanks I needed this, I'm doing the same thing.
Happy to help! Thanks for watching!
Hi, great video by the way. could I ask your advice about a 5hp briggs and stratton engine I have just brought?many thanks gav
How would I get a carburator for the 5hp b&s engine 130202 engine. Do yo know someone selling a used one? Help!! email: butch5588@gmai.com
I do not have a carb rebuild video for this particular carb. I am planning on it with another engine that has the same carb. But I don't know how soon I will get that done. Thanks for watching.
Good thing I got a '95 model with the other style carb with only two linkages. great vid btw.
Thanks for watching!
if it was coming through the breather pipe, what do you think would be the cause of it? Thanks again for the help.gav
+Gavin Morris Could be a little bit too much oil in the engine.
Hi - I have a B&S 131232 but the date code is gone. My motor looks exactly like yours - any way you could take a quick look at this picture to see if you could estimate the year of my motor? - Thanks very much :)
my ? is about the gasket between the carb.and gas tank i just bought one and also bought one a year ago anyways are you suppose to put gasket seal around it last year i didnt and gas started to leak out between the tank and carb im hoping you maybe could get back to me thak you
Gasket seal is not a necessity but if you need it, don't be afraid to use it. Use it sparingly.
In this video, you appear to be using the gas tank that you purchased used. It has been cleaned and painted very nicely. Your entire engine appears to be repainted the same color and it all matches. Great job. What procedures and specific primer/paint brands/type did you use for the tank and the entire engine for that matter?
The engine block was cleaned in an industrial parts washer by a friend. For some parts, I used a paint remover like Zip Strip. Everything was then sanded/scraped and washed in a degreaser like Simple Green or Purple Power. I got it as clean as I could. I made sure that everything was dry using an air compressor and then my wife's hair dryer. I used high temp engine paint and primer that I bought at a local auto parts store. I don't remember the brand but it was approximately $7 per spray can. Thanks for watching.
hey can you still get govanor springs for that engine if so where I need one
stingray300m Yes, you can. partstreeDOTcom has good diagrams. Thanks for watching.
My engine is 130202 1672 02 Ser # 83110906. Would some please email me a still picture where the spring and carb/governor linkage goes? I don't have the threaded rod part that is illustrated in the video. Please I need help. It is very difficult from the side to tell where the spring and control rod goes. Thanks
I agree with another commenter about the patients you have in tackling this job. The linkage setup for these style updraft carbs must have been conceived and designed after a nightmare someone had, perhaps after eating bad sushi. B&S Good. This carb.design Bad. My Tiller has never been the same after I replaced the carb. I have watched a lot of videos but when I get in the middle of this I loose it. Makes me want to slap someone!
🙂 Thanks for watching!
Hi! I want to know about,Where is the oil drain bolt?For oil change?
If you look at the bottom edge of the engine, you will see a bolt with a square head. There should be two, one on the left bottom edge and one on the right bottom edge. Those are the drain plugs. Thanks for watching.
Thanks anyway.
Can you run the engine without the governor
??
You can, but you run the risk of blowing the engine.
what is the briggs special tool for that lower carb bolt? Just curious what that tool looks like.
+tducketts It is Briggs and Stratton part number 19305. I don't think it's available any longer but I bet you can track one down somewhere. Thanks for watching.
sblg43 Hey thank YOU for the video. I ripped my tiller apart last fall and decided to put it back together tomorrow. $20 buy that had no spark, replaced coil and it ran. The carb needed a real good clean and a new diaphragm.
In case anyone goes looking for that tool, this is what it looks like. I'm assuming you use it on a 90 degree angle. briggsandstrattonairfilters.com/images/19305.jpg
Goodman
It would be nice if someone would show the governor control arm adjustment.
+archangel20031 Your wish is my command (it's also one of my most popular videos) ua-cam.com/video/B12rX9pWtTk/v-deo.html
"I've done something wrong here..."" not the kind of comment we like to hear in an instructional video.
Learn from my mistakes!
I understand both sides of that comment. Although editing could've been a choice, I'd still have respect for the video and the person making it. This, that said, shit happens to all of us sometimes and also to the best, and I don't care how good you may be. Overall it's a decent video that gets the point across ..jus saying!
Where can I find the number of engine plz help
These engines usually have the Model, Type and Serial numbers stamped on the engine shroud (the part that covers the flywheel and ignition). Here is a link to another video of mine that may help ua-cam.com/video/chw0k1hBEsc/v-deo.htmlm10s
How did you find out the date when it was made? MIne is a 130202... is it from the 80's?
+MartyMartin87 Briggs and Stratton engines have "Model, Type and Code" numbers. For example: Model 110412-0154-E1 Code 000821FD - If you look at the CODE number - the first two digits are the last two digits of the year of manufacture - this CODE shows 00 which means the year 2000. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching.
OK, mine is a: 130202 0968 04 81101206. Does it say anything about the year?
MartyMartin87 1981
cool
I have scoured the internet and found nothing to help date an engine without the date code. These 5HP horizontal engines sold by the millions (literally) over many years.
Your engine #131232: This designates the engine as (13) Cubic Inches; (1) Basic Design Series 2; (2) Horizontal Crankshaft w/ Pulsa-Jet Carburetor & Pneumatic or Mechanical Governor; (3) Ball Bearing, Flange Mounting, Splash Lube; (2) Rewind Starter
My engine doesn't have the Ball Bearings. Sorry I couldn't help more.
Do they still sell that carb?
They do, but it's expensive. Best to clean and rebuild if you can. Thanks for watching.
Well i broke the two tubes going down to gas tank any suggestions
Well now, I just googled that carb and found that they are a lot less expensive than they used to be. It seems that you can now get them for less than $20. Amazon or Ebay!
@@RealManSkills thanks man
@@RealManSkills is there a way to replace those tubes if you break them or no
i need this engine for my tiller, my piston rod put a hole in the case.
Yep, that happens. You might want to check out the Predator engines at Harbor Freight. Cheap prices, but the engines aren't bad. Thanks for watching.
Can you tell me the rotation of this motor when it runs.. clockwise or counter clockwise. I think the Honda I have runs clockwise. I pull start it, pulling toward the fuel tank/carburator.
Clockwise
Motor code
These engines usually have the Model, Type and Serial numbers stamped on the engine shroud (the part that covers the flywheel and ignition). Here is a link to another video of mine that may help ua-cam.com/video/chw0k1hBEsc/v-deo.htmlm10s
X