Wow! 13 likes into the video debut, and I got my first DISLIKE! Nice! As Paul Pierce once said: "If they're not talking about you, you're not doing anything." Corollary: if nobody is talking bad about you yet, you're not significant enough. Can't make everyone happy. Thank you for all the viewers & supporters! 😎
👍 Make sure you’ve checked out the humidity control video I posted. Cabinets like these, even with the carpet lining, do not have enough insulation for heat rod to work effectively. If humidity control is a concern for you, these type of cabinets really should use silica gel cartridges instead. I know I showed my project with heat rod in the video, but my indoor humidity without any dehumidifier is 40% in winter, and 47~48% in summer, so I don’t have rust risk.
Great ideas never thought of the humidity inside an the walls being steel making it harder to maintain 50% I'm gonna to get the carpet now should I fill the holes in before the carpet or will the carpet be good
Thank you. That question is hard to answer, as different types of rifles “stick out” different amount. (In the handle/grip, butt stock, magazine direction) It also depends on “how much finagling” you are willing to tolerate getting stuff into & out of the cabinet. I divided mine down the middle. Right side has lots of shelves, was my preference. In the left half for long guns: I know I showed left wall and far wall having cradles, but that configuration is not practical for multiple long guns. Butt stocks will be fighting each other for space. In this configuration, I *could* put 3 long guns against the back wall comfortably. Can access any one of them without squeezing on another. I could squeeze 4 in if I wanted. “Possibly” can squeeze 5, depending on the rifle’s width profile. In practice, I don’t put even 3 long guns into the cabinet. So that isn’t an issue for me. If you’re considering to store “lots” of firearms in a cabinet like this, I’d suggest check out my other video on the channel about cabinet/safe selection & considerations. I wouldn’t trust so much “dollar value of firearms” on a cabinet like this.
@@reallifeengineer7214 Thanks for your detailed reply. I'm considering a Stack On 18-gun cabinet which could be close in size to yours, but I only need to fit 5 long guns. Was yours advertised to hold 18, too?
@@nomsolo9935 Mine was advertised to hold 24. If we consider how 28 college students can fit into a VW Beetle, yeah, I'm sure with some firearm yoga I could cram 24 long firearms into that cabinet. 🤣 With 5 long guns, you should be fine with a Stack-on 18. 3~4 can definitely fit leaning into the back wall. The remaining 1~2 can definitely fit between the shelf dividers and the door. You'll need to check the LED lighting before "fixing" them permanently in-place. Firearms in-between the shelf divider and door, will block a lot of LED light from reaching into the shelf areas. So make sure you like the LED positions before you use its permanent adhesive to stick. (Like: hold it in place temporarily using masking tape when you're checking.)
Great video. I just purchased a similar cabinet and looking to do many of the same upgrades. Did you consider adding wood to the inside surface of the front frame for added strength
Hi, Mike, Thanks for watching. 😎 Great question. For my purpose (of using this cabinet), further DIY strengthening of the front door or frame is beyond my expectation for the cabinet, so I didn't undertake that. Is it possible to DIY-strengthen it? Absolutely. But gets into diminishing-return really fast. If you decide to tackle that, I would be curious what you try & how it turns out. See this video where I outlined the various considerations when deciding on safe vs cabinet, staging location, primary purpose, etc. ua-cam.com/video/HSGj4MdDgTQ/v-deo.html Once you see the four common methods of attack, you'll see why after anchoring, I didn't further DIY-strengthen the cabinet. My cabinet's primary purpose is just to keep out kids & house guests. Secondary purpose is to delay burglars as long as possible, maximizing the cabinet's existing capability. I never meant for this cabinet to entirely survive a burglar attack if the perp had lots of time. If I didn't anchor the cabinet, perps would have either loaded this cabinet into their pickup truck directly, or lay this flat on the ground and open it in 2min with a crow bar. By bolting it to wall studs, they're forced to work upright. Probably takes 10min to gain entry, which is long enough to hopefully thwart their attempt. After first 2~4 minutes, they likely would move on to other "softer targets" in the house to steal. (e.g. 12yr old big screen TV's that aren't worth anything now, but they don't know that) By which point, responding security company & LEO's would have sent the burglars running. I think having realistic expectations is really important. That's why after this DIY improvement video, I released the video on "how to select gun safe/cabinet". For some P2A community veterans, info in my videos may seem to be common sense. But I tell you, throughout my learning journey in becoming a gun owner, I've came across so many gun owners that have mistaken info handed to them, is the reason I'm trying to share these summarized versions of what I've learned. Like Ronin Tu Lam says about the AR: gotta understand your weapon system's capabilities & limitations. Well, in this case, I apply his method of thinking towards the security safe/cabinet's capabilities & limitations.
That, is a question for the heat rod manufacturers. 😅 I have never seen/felt the heating element cycle on & off. I believe this is a constant-on. If so, then it comes down to the designed wattage, and how quickly that heat dissipates into surrounding air, that determines the steady-state surface temp of the heat rod. Your concern is then really: 1) can you trust that engineering calculation from heat rod manufacturer, 2) reliability of the parts/components used.
I just installed in the motion sensor LED light system you recommended on Amazon. It has a switch that ties into the motion detector. Flip the switch one way and the lights come on. Switch it the other way they shut off. Which way should I set the switch for the motion detector to work?
The one I used, is the first on the list, in the section for LED lights. No switch. The one with switch is 3rd on the list, which is variable length and needs to by custom-cut and joined. I suspect what that switch is: it provides power. And now the motion sensor receives its power, it will turn on. After a few minutes of no motion, it will likely turn off on its own. Check the manual that came with it.
I used 4 strips of 12” length LED’s. You’ll need to check based on your safe/cabinet. It’s all about the shadows. We want plenty of light so there isn’t an unlit corner in the shadows. If you double-duty your safe/cabinet as quick-access for home defense, then you also need to consider “not too bright” to impact your own low light vision. (Most home invasion happens at night time.)
@reallifeengineer7214 I purchased the same cabinet as you. I'll be using some of yours and Jeb as a template, I will be doing a little bit different tweeking for my job. Your other videos were very well thought out. I appreciate your response.
I got these 12”x12” carpet squares. They come with adhesive already applied, with a peel off backing. Can’t remember whether I got them thru Amazon or from Lowe’s Online. Whether you use 12x12, or start with a full roll and cut to size, they each have their pro’s & con’s.
Wow! 13 likes into the video debut, and I got my first DISLIKE! Nice!
As Paul Pierce once said: "If they're not talking about you, you're not doing anything."
Corollary: if nobody is talking bad about you yet, you're not significant enough.
Can't make everyone happy.
Thank you for all the viewers & supporters! 😎
Lots of great info. Didn’t think about spacers and wall studs or a lot of the other considerations (oily interior metal).
Great video! Very thorough! Thank you for all the detail!
I just picked up one today I’m going to modify it also. Nice video!
👍
Make sure you’ve checked out the humidity control video I posted.
Cabinets like these, even with the carpet lining, do not have enough insulation for heat rod to work effectively.
If humidity control is a concern for you, these type of cabinets really should use silica gel cartridges instead.
I know I showed my project with heat rod in the video, but my indoor humidity without any dehumidifier is 40% in winter, and 47~48% in summer, so I don’t have rust risk.
Great ideas never thought of the humidity inside an the walls being steel making it harder to maintain 50% I'm gonna to get the carpet now should I fill the holes in before the carpet or will the carpet be good
Thank you so much 😊
Very thorough. How many long guns fit with your configuration as shown?
Thank you.
That question is hard to answer, as different types of rifles “stick out” different amount. (In the handle/grip, butt stock, magazine direction)
It also depends on “how much finagling” you are willing to tolerate getting stuff into & out of the cabinet.
I divided mine down the middle. Right side has lots of shelves, was my preference.
In the left half for long guns:
I know I showed left wall and far wall having cradles, but that configuration is not practical for multiple long guns. Butt stocks will be fighting each other for space.
In this configuration, I *could* put 3 long guns against the back wall comfortably. Can access any one of them without squeezing on another.
I could squeeze 4 in if I wanted.
“Possibly” can squeeze 5, depending on the rifle’s width profile.
In practice, I don’t put even 3 long guns into the cabinet. So that isn’t an issue for me.
If you’re considering to store “lots” of firearms in a cabinet like this, I’d suggest check out my other video on the channel about cabinet/safe selection & considerations.
I wouldn’t trust so much “dollar value of firearms” on a cabinet like this.
@@reallifeengineer7214 Thanks for your detailed reply. I'm considering a Stack On 18-gun cabinet which could be close in size to yours, but I only need to fit 5 long guns. Was yours advertised to hold 18, too?
@@nomsolo9935
Mine was advertised to hold 24.
If we consider how 28 college students can fit into a VW Beetle, yeah, I'm sure with some firearm yoga I could cram 24 long firearms into that cabinet. 🤣
With 5 long guns, you should be fine with a Stack-on 18.
3~4 can definitely fit leaning into the back wall.
The remaining 1~2 can definitely fit between the shelf dividers and the door.
You'll need to check the LED lighting before "fixing" them permanently in-place. Firearms in-between the shelf divider and door, will block a lot of LED light from reaching into the shelf areas. So make sure you like the LED positions before you use its permanent adhesive to stick. (Like: hold it in place temporarily using masking tape when you're checking.)
Great video. I just purchased a similar cabinet and looking to do many of the same upgrades. Did you consider adding wood to the inside surface of the front frame for added strength
Hi, Mike,
Thanks for watching. 😎
Great question.
For my purpose (of using this cabinet), further DIY strengthening of the front door or frame is beyond my expectation for the cabinet, so I didn't undertake that.
Is it possible to DIY-strengthen it? Absolutely.
But gets into diminishing-return really fast.
If you decide to tackle that, I would be curious what you try & how it turns out.
See this video where I outlined the various considerations when deciding on safe vs cabinet, staging location, primary purpose, etc.
ua-cam.com/video/HSGj4MdDgTQ/v-deo.html
Once you see the four common methods of attack, you'll see why after anchoring, I didn't further DIY-strengthen the cabinet.
My cabinet's primary purpose is just to keep out kids & house guests.
Secondary purpose is to delay burglars as long as possible, maximizing the cabinet's existing capability.
I never meant for this cabinet to entirely survive a burglar attack if the perp had lots of time.
If I didn't anchor the cabinet, perps would have either loaded this cabinet into their pickup truck directly, or lay this flat on the ground and open it in 2min with a crow bar.
By bolting it to wall studs, they're forced to work upright. Probably takes 10min to gain entry, which is long enough to hopefully thwart their attempt. After first 2~4 minutes, they likely would move on to other "softer targets" in the house to steal. (e.g. 12yr old big screen TV's that aren't worth anything now, but they don't know that)
By which point, responding security company & LEO's would have sent the burglars running.
I think having realistic expectations is really important. That's why after this DIY improvement video, I released the video on "how to select gun safe/cabinet".
For some P2A community veterans, info in my videos may seem to be common sense. But I tell you, throughout my learning journey in becoming a gun owner, I've came across so many gun owners that have mistaken info handed to them, is the reason I'm trying to share these summarized versions of what I've learned.
Like Ronin Tu Lam says about the AR: gotta understand your weapon system's capabilities & limitations. Well, in this case, I apply his method of thinking towards the security safe/cabinet's capabilities & limitations.
is the heat rod dehumidifier a fire hazzard?
That, is a question for the heat rod manufacturers. 😅
I have never seen/felt the heating element cycle on & off. I believe this is a constant-on.
If so, then it comes down to the designed wattage, and how quickly that heat dissipates into surrounding air, that determines the steady-state surface temp of the heat rod.
Your concern is then really:
1) can you trust that engineering calculation from heat rod manufacturer,
2) reliability of the parts/components used.
I just installed in the motion sensor LED light system you recommended on Amazon. It has a switch that ties into the motion detector. Flip the switch one way and the lights come on. Switch it the other way they shut off. Which way should I set the switch for the motion detector to work?
The one I used, is the first on the list, in the section for LED lights. No switch. The one with switch is 3rd on the list, which is variable length and needs to by custom-cut and joined.
I suspect what that switch is: it provides power. And now the motion sensor receives its power, it will turn on. After a few minutes of no motion, it will likely turn off on its own.
Check the manual that came with it.
What length of LED did you use?
I used 4 strips of 12” length LED’s.
You’ll need to check based on your safe/cabinet. It’s all about the shadows.
We want plenty of light so there isn’t an unlit corner in the shadows.
If you double-duty your safe/cabinet as quick-access for home defense, then you also need to consider “not too bright” to impact your own low light vision. (Most home invasion happens at night time.)
@reallifeengineer7214 I purchased the same cabinet as you. I'll be using some of yours and Jeb as a template, I will be doing a little bit different tweeking for my job. Your other videos were very well thought out. I appreciate your response.
Where did u get the carpet ?
I got these 12”x12” carpet squares.
They come with adhesive already applied, with a peel off backing.
Can’t remember whether I got them thru Amazon or from Lowe’s Online.
Whether you use 12x12, or start with a full roll and cut to size, they each have their pro’s & con’s.
Great amount of information.
Thank you for all the details. Very helpful.