Відео

Can "set" that without a controller where you plug in your rods or other active humidifiers. Inkbirds are cheap on Amazon but you do introduce complexity (and confusing instructions guide). Can't set with passive (silicate) at all, just have to monitor. But don't leave them saturated or they throw humidity back in the safe!

I live in the tropics, and, yeah. In-home humidity goes 40-80%, and higher. I made my own dry box and I use a golden rod AND a small dehumidifier AND rechargeable silicate nside, I can keep RH below 50%.

I used 4 strips of 12” length LED’s. You’ll need to check based on your safe/cabinet. It’s all about the shadows. We want plenty of light so there isn’t an unlit corner in the shadows. If you double-duty your safe/cabinet as quick-access for home defense, then you also need to consider “not too bright” to impact your own low light vision. (Most home invasion happens at night time.)

@reallifeengineer7214 I purchased the same cabinet as you. I'll be using some of yours and Jeb as a template, I will be doing a little bit different tweeking for my job. Your other videos were very well thought out. I appreciate your response.

You may be right. But I would guess if there is anything that Peet’s plastic housing does, is to reduce the speed of natural convection.

@@reallifeengineer7214 I thought about it later on and am thinking that temperature uniformity in the safe is what would be best and we both know convection will probably be the best means to transfer heat. I decided to run a 24" golden rod and using a whole series of govee hydrometers to measure at multiple points in each safe and then swap both setups while leaving the sensors. I would at least know relative effectiveness of both devices.

@@ChuckMorton Nice! Sounds like a great way to test & find out! Love it.

@@reallifeengineer7214 I like the similar mindset of doing actual research (and not the "do your own research", which is really just aggregating information.)

Superior vs what dehumidifier? Superior in what metric?

Use of BOTH the 24" heat rod and ALSO the Peet heater seems a bit much. 78~81F seems a bit high. I personally wouldn't like storing firearm and ammunition in elevated temp if I could avoid it. Maybe unplug the Peet and see what the new equilibrium temp & RH is, then decide from there?

@@reallifeengineer7214 Thanks for the info. Do you think about 41% RH is too high or about just right? I will try unplugging the Peet heater as well and see what it does.

If through an entire year (all season), your safe’s RH range between 45~54%, that’s actually pretty good! 😅 If you get it to 49~51% range, you’ve got yourself a laboratory-grade CTCH room. (Constant temp / constant humidity) Hmm… makes me wonder what’s the temp/RH range they use to preserve historic documents. And yes, a lot of it has to do with the fact your safe is “very close” to the outdoor environment. So outdoor humidity swing can more-easily impact your safe. That said, if you’ve had this for years, and you’re not seeing any issues on your iron & wood, you should be just fine. (If it were mine, I wouldn’t worry about it.)

3 per individual, or 3 per household? 😝

What a dumb law

That, is a question for the heat rod manufacturers. 😅 I have never seen/felt the heating element cycle on & off. I believe this is a constant-on. If so, then it comes down to the designed wattage, and how quickly that heat dissipates into surrounding air, that determines the steady-state surface temp of the heat rod. Your concern is then really: 1) can you trust that engineering calculation from heat rod manufacturer, 2) reliability of the parts/components used.

I don't ! 😅 That's also because I don't have any wood components on my stuff in there. So "low humidity" is not a problem for me. If you have M1 Garand or other items with wood components, then you do need to keep humidity at roughly 50%RH. 40%~60%RH is probably an ok range. Before considering to "add" humidity, please make sure you are logging and monitoring humidity inside AND OUTSIDE of the safe/cabinet. That'll give you insight what you need to do, to avoid "too dry" situation. (If RH outside the safe is already too dry, there's not much you can do inside the safe. You certainly don't want to add a humidifier in there... 😅)

@@reallifeengineer7214 thanks good to know. Just got a new safe and trying to figure everything out. Mines has been stuck at 20-30% based on what my monitor says. It’s just super dry in the winter, which doesn’t help. No wood components so I’m good in that area. Someone suggested to add a humidifier in the same room as the safe to control the humidity better.

@@Beardlife1776 If you don’t have any wood component on firearms in the safe, then you do not need to worry about “too dry” AT ALL. Whoever suggested you add a humidifier in the same room, is solving a problem that doesn’t exist. 😅

The one I used, is the first on the list, in the section for LED lights. No switch. The one with switch is 3rd on the list, which is variable length and needs to by custom-cut and joined. I suspect what that switch is: it provides power. And now the motion sensor receives its power, it will turn on. After a few minutes of no motion, it will likely turn off on its own. Check the manual that came with it.

Thank you for watching and your comment. If your issue is a very dry house/room, certainly that’s a different direction. Adding humidity via humidifier is generally not a good idea inside a safe. Humidity does not disperse immediately homogeneously in the safe. That means you will get localized (very small pockets) high-humidity, or even some condensation. Now, if you don’t have wood components on your firearms, then “too dry” is fine; no harm done. If you do have a woody I mean wooden pieces in the safe, you can try oil’ing that wood. “Too dry” pulls the humidity out of the wood, and eventually that’s why wood will crack/split in that condition. By putting oil into the wood, oil now takes the place that got vacated by the departed humidity. This is also why when you’re oiling very dry wood, you can feel and see the oil sucked into the wood & gone almost immediately. (Just like dry human skin “drinking up” moisturizer.) The only watch out: adding oil to wood will change the looks of that wood. Research into oil for wooden floor, and you’ll get the idea. Good luck with the oil on the wood… 🤣

I’ve had good experience with Tong oil. This oil will absorb into the wood like any other oil, but additionally Tong oil will cross-link when it cures. Meaning, the fatty acid chains of the oil molecule will cross link with fatty acid chains of adjacent oil molecule. Not to the extent of how epoxy cures, but similar idea. Tong oil is all natural, derived from tree nuts. I’ve also heard good info about Linseed oil, but I have not tried that. If you are able to disassemble your firearm, and separate the wood parts from the metal parts, then you can try a little bit of the oil in an “inconspicuous area” and see what the color turns into, and whether you like that look. BUT, if the wood piece on your firearm has an urethane-type coating, then no oil will penetrate through that coating so will not absorb into the wood. I don’t think firearm wood pieces use that type of coating, but I could be wrong.

Oh. Then you need to check out the 3rd one as well. Regarding the cabinet modifications. (Customization) Eg bringing AC power into a cabinet, motion sensor LED lighting, anchoring, ...

Hi, there. Thank you for the kind words. I appreciate it. I picked up many projects around the house when Covid started. Turned to YT to get ideas on how-to. On projects where I couldn’t really find good, consolidated video, I decided to make & share videos of my own in hope my experience would help others. Many other video ideas, but didn’t get around to filming or editing them. On your question: within reasons, yes that assumption holds true. If want to know for sure, put one of these humidity sensor/logger (high & low) inside the uninsulated cabinet, and check back after a few days or a few weeks. Deviation away from 50%RH will have registered, and you can see for sure. First monitor for 24hrs. Then extend to 2~3 days. Then check back in a week. Then check every few weeks - AND make sure you’ve done that across rain seasons. Why this is not a straight forward yes or no: I speculate you’re asking this for a basement space, where some folks maintain a dehumidifier. So it depends heavily on how that dehumidifier is sized, - whether sufficient for the room (entire basement is huge), - how much of the room is “homogeneous” (basement usually isn’t), - where in the room is the cabinet (if happens to be to a corner that gets very little air movement and accumulate higher humidity because that corner face the uphill outside the house and it’s where moisture accumulated & seeps through the concrete basement wall...) ... Many factors to consider. Therefore not a simple yes/no. If it’s really just a room, on 1F or 2F, then I’m willing to bet your assumption is correct. If it’s the basement, I wouldn’t take the chance, and would at least monitor closely/frequently, until I know I can trust that assumption year-round. But that’s a lot of work. Compared to that, $15~20 for a silica gel pack, then I can reduce my monitoring frequency. Because at that point I am not really checking for high/low on the sensor; I am checking for whether the silica beads are saturated and need a recharge. I can go for longer duration between checks. Hope this helps. [Edited to correct the silly auto-correct]

@@reallifeengineer7214 Thanks for the very detailed response! All that makes sense to me. I already have a dehumidifier handy which is why it came to mind as a low maintenance solution. I used to use the plug in Evadry units but they never seemed to bring the humidity down low enough. I just figured they weren’t all that useful, but now I know I needed more of them. That sounds like good advice and I will try monitoring it to see what RH percentages comes up with the compressor dehumidifier. Probably also get more desiccant dehumidifiers too and see which method requires the least amount of maintenance.

@Laarb Pad Maintenance and... Electricity, in the case of a dehumidifier JUST FOR the fact you have a cabinet in that room. 😅 If it’s just a room, sure, it’ll control the humidity. But... I don’t know, seems a bit of an overkill. But hey, if you have a spare dehumidifier, sure. 😊 By the way. I have an LG dehumidifier. After 2~3 yrs of not using it, all the refrigerant has finished leaking out. How do I know? I turned it on to dehumidify after a water leak, came back to that room after a few hrs to find... absolutely no change on humidity, no water collecting in the bucket, and the compressor had being running for hours... how the motor didn’t burn out, I have no idea. 🤣

@@reallifeengineer7214 yes, that is a good point, definitely more $ to run the dehumidifier. Kind of have to run it anyway, so in that case it would not be exclusively for the cabinet... Interesting about the LG. I didn’t know the refrigerant could leak out (evaporate?).

That works! 😂 When refreshing (baking) the silica gel beads, you might want to spread them out on a tray in the toaster oven or similar. Quicker having it spread out, vs keeping them inside the sock.

@@reallifeengineer7214 I just change new silica gel beads to the sock :D

m.ua-cam.com/video/R_USJCTIgs4/v-deo.html

Buy a golden rod

Thank you. That question is hard to answer, as different types of rifles “stick out” different amount. (In the handle/grip, butt stock, magazine direction) It also depends on “how much finagling” you are willing to tolerate getting stuff into & out of the cabinet. I divided mine down the middle. Right side has lots of shelves, was my preference. In the left half for long guns: I know I showed left wall and far wall having cradles, but that configuration is not practical for multiple long guns. Butt stocks will be fighting each other for space. In this configuration, I *could* put 3 long guns against the back wall comfortably. Can access any one of them without squeezing on another. I could squeeze 4 in if I wanted. “Possibly” can squeeze 5, depending on the rifle’s width profile. In practice, I don’t put even 3 long guns into the cabinet. So that isn’t an issue for me. If you’re considering to store “lots” of firearms in a cabinet like this, I’d suggest check out my other video on the channel about cabinet/safe selection & considerations. I wouldn’t trust so much “dollar value of firearms” on a cabinet like this.

@@reallifeengineer7214 Thanks for your detailed reply. I'm considering a Stack On 18-gun cabinet which could be close in size to yours, but I only need to fit 5 long guns. Was yours advertised to hold 18, too?

@@nomsolo9935 Mine was advertised to hold 24. If we consider how 28 college students can fit into a VW Beetle, yeah, I'm sure with some firearm yoga I could cram 24 long firearms into that cabinet. 🤣 With 5 long guns, you should be fine with a Stack-on 18. 3~4 can definitely fit leaning into the back wall. The remaining 1~2 can definitely fit between the shelf dividers and the door. You'll need to check the LED lighting before "fixing" them permanently in-place. Firearms in-between the shelf divider and door, will block a lot of LED light from reaching into the shelf areas. So make sure you like the LED positions before you use its permanent adhesive to stick. (Like: hold it in place temporarily using masking tape when you're checking.)

Brother, You’re too funny. 🤣 I need to learn your hense of sumor. This video came as a result of me getting bored with all the work-from-home during Covid. So I started doing projects around the house - learned a ton of DIY stuff... Then decided to film some of them... Then decided to take a stab at video editing... And thought I’d upload a few things that I didn’t see other YT’ers address. Check out my other videos on humidity control etc related to this cabinet project.

@@reallifeengineer7214 you have a great sense humor!

I got these 12”x12” carpet squares. They come with adhesive already applied, with a peel off backing. Can’t remember whether I got them thru Amazon or from Lowe’s Online. Whether you use 12x12, or start with a full roll and cut to size, they each have their pro’s & con’s.

It depends. 😅 I talked about 50%RH being ideal for wood; that’s numbers from NRA. If you have firearms with wood components, then that becomes important. If you don’t have any wood component, or if you don’t CARE about any wood component in there, then there is no such thing as “too dry” for the inside of a safe. When we replaced our home’s central HVAC last summer, the workers didn’t wire the humidifier properly. So this winter we’ve being a bit too dry. Entire house is routinely 35~38%RH. My cabinet is ~32%RH. Doesn’t hurt my firearms. I don’t have a Garand.

Is your safe airtight? Silicate (passive) works in a sealed space, rods need an escape for air. I drilled 3 small 1/4" holes at top away from the rod side.