This video was a huge help. I bought the same filter and part from Summit. I did the delete on my '99 Yukon, but as it came in the package without a gasket. FYI, torque specs for the new bolts is 95 inch pounds. I had also read in another forum that there is no gasket because it is designed to seep by.
Here is the low down on removing the old, leaky oil lines going from the radiator to the oil filter adapter. The part is listed in the manual as an "oil filter by-pass valve". This should answer all your concerns before you start this project; The bolts on the old housing have 1/2" hex heads, but the one on my doner engine are 7/16" hex heads, however, the thread diameter of both is 5/16". Don't let that throw you off, it is the thread diameter that matters here. They are grade 5 from the factory (3 lines). There are 18 threads per inch (coarse thread). The length from the bottom of the head to the end of the threads is 1 and 1/8" long. The torque specification is 120 inch pounds (10 foot pounds) according to my Haynes manual for a Chevy small block (or a big block). Again, it is referred to as an Oil Filter By-Pass Valve. There is no need for a gasket. The Wix filter number (includes an anti drain back valve) is 57099. A/C Delco number is PF454. The filter is about 3 inches tall and clears the front drive shaft. I cut the old lines about an inch from the nuts at the radiator, crimped them closed in a vise, and filled the back side with RTV. That was to make me feel better, but there is only, or at least there should only be oil in that part of the radiator. My oil pressure has definitely increased on my stock/factory oil pressure gauge. This retrofit eliminates several weak spots that are potential leaks. There is only one hidden bolt that goes to the front of the left engine mount. I cut the metal lines with a sawzall with a 14 teeth per inch blade for ease of removal. Only regret is not doing this sooner. I now have higher oil pressure, less leaks, and less mess when changing the oil. Good luck, I hope this helps others... K-Lap
@@MrRoy-rb1je Correct. They are both machined surfaces so no gasket is required. I do think they make a gasket, but not required. Good luck, I hope this helps. I like it a lot better and wish I did this years ago.
@@klap8861 Thank you, very much! Your Instructions are exceptional and I start the project tomorrow on a 1999 K1500 Suburban 5.7! Have a great weekend & thank you very much!
K-Lap Outstanding! Very straight forward. With your excellent instructions it was an hour job! Oil pressure up 10psi! Thank you, for the excellent write up!!!
Really good video. Short and sweet. My 99 suburban was puking oil all over the place.. after cooler delete I realized that was the only leak I had. Glad I watched the video and deleted that p.o.s. thanks.
I was looking at the adapter at oreillys and I was just worried about the filter sealing back up after installation. Thanks for clearing everything up. Very helpful. Wish me luck!
Deleting the oil cooler was a success, she ran like a top and oil pressure gauge was reading steady. I also had to rip the whole thing out as one unit. 262k miles and many more to come!
I just bought the melling oil filter bypass adapter from O'Reilly's and was working about the filter sealing too. I had to buy a filter for a 2wd. I have not done the swap yet. Were your oil pressures low before the swap?
@@Chevro91 all I know is I don’t use a gasket. I’ve had my motor in my suburban running with no gasket now since 2017. With 130k miles on it. The motor I had in it before that. No gasket. It was still running when I changed it out at 235k. The only reason I changed it out was because one of the heads had cracked and I didn’t want to just replace the heads. So I built this motor and put it in.
Pulling wire is the way to remove. I have done this several times, the tube fittings are 3/8"npt. I just pull the 2 nuts and thread in pipe plugs. It will not affect anything. Rad end i clip lines and roll end over. Good video if you want oil filter vertical.
Maybe I'll go out of theme a lil bit, but I have a question; I have a '93 GMC Safari, and recently found that there's an oil hemorrhage @ the "in" line besides the filter when the engine is on. The problem is just an O-ring but it doesn't come to buy separately (at least one like the older one. It's uncommon). I looked at every known and not known auto part, and nothing. At the last one (exclusively GM), the attendant tolds me; "You can just block the holes and that's it". I did more research, and found that the people delete all around, including the oil cooling manifold that holds the filter too. But I don' t know what's the difference between just block it and delete the manifold, and why not just block the holes? Thanks.
Explain why a few videos are saying too use it if need be ? And some say you do Not Need the adapter gasket they say when doing this modification. Do we need the gasket for the melling oil adapter fix or just run the adapter to block metal to metal
My Tahoe ran great, no oil leaks, till I tried using full synthetic oil... bad idea, the thin oil caused oil leaking and problems that I’m dealing with now. Should have stayed with conventional motor oil..
I am on the fence about this delete. First I was told not to do it because If I want to tow. And if I do a delete then I shouldn't tow. I don't usually tow in the first place so what are your thoughts on that? To tow or not to tow lol let me know your thoughts
I need to do this to my 98 Blazer with the 4.3. It's a terrible system design with SO many things that can and will go wrong. Worse yet, the lines I replaced 2 years ago are already seeping-stay away from Dorman and get AC Delco.
I believe the trucks with this particular setup came with the tow package from the factory. If you didn't have a factory tow package then it may not have been installed. Not sure if it was an add on separately from the dealer. Just a thought.
My 2wd 96 chevy 2500 vortec does not have a oil cooler or the adapter system..never did ..I have a vertical filter right to the block ..all factory..I pull work trailers every day ..no high temperatures or even above 195°..no oil consumption..no oil leaks. ever. so I guess GM had it right with that system since the 50's. But..every one with a factory oil cooler and adapter leaks ,lose oil pressure, and other shit .
You wouldn't happen to remember what size bolts were used, would you? The adapter I bought didn't come with any the two other sizes I tried were too long. Thanks!
5/16" diameter, 18 tpi (coarse thread), 1 and 1/8" long from bottom of head to bottom of the threads - grade 5. I got mine from another, older, stock Chevy 350
I have a 91 dually. I do not tow with it. It’s a muscle truck and sees surface street driving only. It’s been a dream truck since lethal weapon 2 when mel tried to rip the house down. I don’t need those lines. They leak, they are in my way
@@urjb Thank you for your comments and posting this video! There's a UA-cam video that shows a 1/2 in compression fitting 8an to 3/8 in npt adapter that changes the oil cooler line clip fittings. I would like to just remove the lines all together as you have demonstrated.
Those lines are anti freeze right? I have a freeze leak somewhere and I'm damn sure it's those lines because they're lose Down by the oil filter. And no not where they screw on to the cooler piece. I want to just bypass them
question? why not just use the old oil adapter hub.and just put solid bolts where the oild cooler line would bolt up? leaving that original filter to the side?
I don't know if you found an answer yet. I plugged the holes on the original adapter for my truck and was having problems with oil pressure, at idle it only had 8 psi and around 30 psi when driving. I read other people were having the same issue.
Ryan Lober i pluged mines by the link thats in the next comment if youll look down.after this one.and my 2500 is running fine.but it just overheated like hell.now so im trying to see whats up with that now.
@@FullThrottle316 Your 100 % correct.The best small block known to man..Chevy 5.7 liter 350 cu in small block didn`t come with oil cooler lines.They ran fine without oil cooler lines.
I'm overhauling a 98 K10 rate now because the oil cooler in the radiator leaked coolant into the engine and oil into the cooling system. What a mess, was a great running engine until this happened, bearings are shot. Will still run a remote cooler but never to the cooling system. Oil to air.
How would you go about deleting the egr? I want to attempt this, but do not want to affect how the engine runs. i just bought an EGR valve and a new MAP sensor. The mechanic who rebuilt the motor says no big deal, that hes done it on all engines he's rebuilt. Deleting the cooler lines that is.
Why not just replace the leaking parts and get another 100k out of it? You know, the square o ring, the quick connects, some thread sealant on the bolts and call it a day. Fucking hacks.
I replace at least half a dozen cooler lines a year. Never have any come back leaking, and if I did, I offer a 24k 24month warranty, and the parts suppliers typically offer a lifetime warranty on the parts.
😂 "not worth the hassle"?! I hope you're not hassling your truck with any type of towing after this. Oil consumption will be your first indication you made a mistake. Followed by probably either piston slap or a rod knock
I have a 96 chevy 2500 with L31-R vortec engine all original...no factory oil cooler no oil cooler filter adapter hub sticking out ..I have just a regular filter going straight in the block vertically ...I pull tool enclosed tool trailer every day for work ,,,13 years , no problems..no temperature changes ever ...it does have a heavy duty external transmission cooler on it was there when I bought the truck ..my temperature stays at 180°-195° never above
This video was a huge help. I bought the same filter and part from Summit. I did the delete on my '99 Yukon, but as it came in the package without a gasket. FYI, torque specs for the new bolts is 95 inch pounds. I had also read in another forum that there is no gasket because it is designed to seep by.
MFA350 same adapter as summits? and wix57099 on 94 4x4
LOL some of these comments, it's not gonna ruin the engine! Millions of sbc never had an oil cooler!
Here is the low down on removing the old, leaky oil lines going from the radiator to the oil filter adapter. The part is listed in the manual as an "oil filter by-pass valve".
This should answer all your concerns before you start this project;
The bolts on the old housing have 1/2" hex heads, but the one on my doner engine are 7/16" hex heads, however, the thread diameter of both is 5/16". Don't let that throw you off, it is the thread diameter that matters here.
They are grade 5 from the factory (3 lines). There are 18 threads per inch (coarse thread). The length from the bottom of the head to the end of the threads is 1 and 1/8" long. The torque specification is 120 inch pounds (10 foot pounds) according to my Haynes manual for a Chevy small block (or a big block). Again, it is referred to as an Oil Filter By-Pass Valve. There is no need for a gasket.
The Wix filter number (includes an anti drain back valve) is 57099. A/C Delco number is PF454. The filter is about 3 inches tall and clears the front drive shaft. I cut the old lines about an inch from the nuts at the radiator, crimped them closed in a vise, and filled the back side with RTV. That was to make me feel better, but there is only, or at least there should only be oil in that part of the radiator.
My oil pressure has definitely increased on my stock/factory oil pressure gauge. This retrofit eliminates several weak spots that are potential leaks. There is only one hidden bolt that goes to the front of the left engine mount. I cut the metal lines with a sawzall with a 14 teeth per inch blade for ease of removal.
Only regret is not doing this sooner.
I now have higher oil pressure, less leaks, and less mess when changing the oil.
Good luck, I hope this helps others...
K-Lap
Outstanding! So to confirm no Rubber O ring or Gasket at all when install the new Oil filter Adapter?
@@MrRoy-rb1je Correct. They are both machined surfaces so no gasket is required. I do think they make a gasket, but not required. Good luck, I hope this helps. I like it a lot better and wish I did this years ago.
@@klap8861 Thank you, very much! Your Instructions are exceptional and I start the project tomorrow on a 1999 K1500 Suburban 5.7! Have a great weekend & thank you very much!
@@MrRoy-rb1je
So... How did you do? Any issues? Happy??
K-Lap Outstanding! Very straight forward. With your excellent instructions it was an hour job! Oil pressure up 10psi! Thank you, for the excellent write up!!!
Really good video. Short and sweet. My 99 suburban was puking oil all over the place.. after cooler delete I realized that was the only leak I had. Glad I watched the video and deleted that p.o.s. thanks.
i know it is quite randomly asking but does anybody know of a good website to stream new movies online?
@Jaden Lukas try Flixzone. Just search on google for it :)
@Stanley Kyree Yea, I have been using FlixZone for since march myself =)
@Stanley Kyree Thanks, I went there and it seems to work :D Appreciate it!!
@Jaden Lukas you are welcome =)
I was looking at the adapter at oreillys and I was just worried about the filter sealing back up after installation. Thanks for clearing everything up. Very helpful. Wish me luck!
good luck.. thanks for watching. :)
Deleting the oil cooler was a success, she ran like a top and oil pressure gauge was reading steady. I also had to rip the whole thing out as one unit. 262k miles and many more to come!
I just bought the melling oil filter bypass adapter from O'Reilly's and was working about the filter sealing too. I had to buy a filter for a 2wd. I have not done the swap yet. Were your oil pressures low before the swap?
The adapter doesn’t need a gasket or silicone. Just bolt it on. I do pre fill my oil filter before screwing it on
Your 100% positive on this mod we do not need the gasket for the melling adapter . Just run it metal to metal ? With the 5/16 bolts
@@Chevro91 all I know is I don’t use a gasket. I’ve had my motor in my suburban running with no gasket now since 2017. With 130k miles on it. The motor I had in it before that. No gasket. It was still running when I changed it out at 235k. The only reason I changed it out was because one of the heads had cracked and I didn’t want to just replace the heads. So I built this motor and put it in.
I would have to say no gasket... just because in either scenario.. the oil filter is the gasket... it's what's holding the oil in..
Love the Blazer 9mm empty box, shredded target and empty skoal can under the old filter housing.
Best video so far.Just what I was looking for..
Pulling wire is the way to remove. I have done this several times, the tube fittings are 3/8"npt. I just pull the 2 nuts and thread in pipe plugs.
It will not affect anything.
Rad end i clip lines and roll end over.
Good video if you want oil filter vertical.
This Video helped me a lot. Thank You for sharing!
cant you just leave lines threaded in radiator and cut them about a couple inches away
Did you have to drain the oil out of the oil pan?
Maybe I'll go out of theme a lil bit, but I have a question;
I have a '93 GMC Safari, and recently found that there's an oil hemorrhage @ the "in" line besides the filter when the engine is on. The problem is just an O-ring but it doesn't come to buy separately (at least one like the older one. It's uncommon). I looked at every known and not known auto part, and nothing. At the last one (exclusively GM), the attendant tolds me; "You can just block the holes and that's it".
I did more research, and found that the people delete all around, including the oil cooling manifold that holds the filter too. But I don' t know what's the difference between just block it and delete the manifold, and why not just block the holes? Thanks.
NEVER NEVER EVER put silicone on your oil filter adaptor.
Explain why a few videos are saying too use it if need be ?
And some say you do Not Need the adapter gasket they say when doing this modification. Do we need the gasket for the melling oil adapter fix or just run the adapter to block metal to metal
My Tahoe ran great, no oil leaks, till I tried using full synthetic oil... bad idea, the thin oil caused oil leaking and problems that I’m dealing with now. Should have stayed with conventional motor oil..
Me too. Zero oil leaks, put $60 worth of high mileage synthetic, and now it holds no oil at all
I am on the fence about this delete. First I was told not to do it because If I want to tow. And if I do a delete then I shouldn't tow. I don't usually tow in the first place so what are your thoughts on that? To tow or not to tow lol let me know your thoughts
Excellent, thanks for posting.
I need to do this to my 98 Blazer with the 4.3. It's a terrible system design with SO many things that can and will go wrong. Worse yet, the lines I replaced 2 years ago are already seeping-stay away from Dorman and get AC Delco.
Hey man what oil filter do you use
Thats what I'm planing to do to mine,delete it. Have you ran into any issues after?
I believe the trucks with this particular setup came with the tow package from the factory. If you didn't have a factory tow package then it may not have been installed. Not sure if it was an add on separately from the dealer. Just a thought.
My 95 Z71 has a tow package and oil cooler. My 99 OBS suburban with 5.7 has tow package with no oil cooler
Not sure if it matters but I think the pressure relief valve part of the adapter goes facing toward the engine
luis flores it doesn’t matter
Did you have low oil pressure when warm before this change
My 2wd 96 chevy 2500 vortec does not have a oil cooler or the adapter system..never did ..I have a vertical filter right to the block ..all factory..I pull work trailers every day ..no high temperatures or even above 195°..no oil consumption..no oil leaks. ever. so I guess GM had it right with that system since the 50's. But..every one with a factory oil cooler and adapter leaks ,lose oil pressure, and other shit .
Will this adapter work on a 4 wheel drive
Have you ever had any oil delivery problems since putting the short oil filter on your Suburban
Permatex High Tack sealant instead of silicone.
So did those gasket work or did u use the silicone
Can't we just not plug the 4 holes with bolts and Teflon tape! any one do this? And if so.. what size bolts for the oil filter housing and radiator?
Deleting it gave 10 psi more pressure.
my oil gage shows 10 more lbs. from changing the oil sending unit
You wouldn't happen to remember what size bolts were used, would you? The adapter I bought didn't come with any the two other sizes I tried were too long. Thanks!
They 5/16 x 1 1/4 bolts
5/16" diameter, 18 tpi (coarse thread), 1 and 1/8" long from bottom of head to bottom of the threads - grade 5. I got mine from another, older, stock Chevy 350
I have a 91 dually. I do not tow with it. It’s a muscle truck and sees surface street driving only. It’s been a dream truck since lethal weapon 2 when mel tried to rip the house down. I don’t need those lines. They leak, they are in my way
Can you leave the oil cooler line adapter in place, remove the lines, and plug the holes with 3/8 npt plug fittings?
Can you leave the oil cooler line adapter in place, remove the lines, and plug the adapter holes with 3/8 npt plug fittings?
I don’t think they’re pipe thread, and you’d have to review oil flow path.
@@urjb Thank you for your comments and posting this video! There's a UA-cam video that shows a 1/2 in compression fitting 8an to 3/8 in npt adapter that changes the oil cooler line clip fittings. I would like to just remove the lines all together as you have demonstrated.
Those lines are anti freeze right? I have a freeze leak somewhere and I'm damn sure it's those lines because they're lose Down by the oil filter. And no not where they screw on to the cooler piece. I want to just bypass them
Those lines are oil going from the oil filter mount to the radiator
Great video. What size filter are you using? Any clearance issues with the drive shaft?
AC Delco number is PF454, Wix number is 57099. They are about 3" tall and clear easily.
To oil lines using Silicone really? Couldn’t find a same size bolt to lock the radiator? I dont think that would end good in any ways
pipe size 3/8
Would this fit a 2000 k2500 with the 5.7 (350)?
yes
Just curious how this held up over time, any problems?
question? why not just use the old oil adapter hub.and just put solid bolts where the oild cooler line would bolt up? leaving that original filter to the side?
I don't know if you found an answer yet. I plugged the holes on the original adapter for my truck and was having problems with oil pressure, at idle it only had 8 psi and around 30 psi when driving. I read other people were having the same issue.
Ryan Lober i pluged mines by the link thats in the next comment if youll look down.after this one.and my 2500 is running fine.but it just overheated like hell.now so im trying to see whats up with that now.
I plugged up the threads but couldnt get oil from leaking past the bolt threads
Will your oil gadge work still ?
Yes it will. The oil pressure sensor is on the passenger side of the block down by the oil pan.
Pressure reads higher now. Looks normal. 40 psi at 2,000 RPM's
Thanks man . 👍👍
who would delete a oil cooling system?
Mike Woods anyone who’s tired of dealing with all the leaks
someone doing a V8 swap into a Jeep :)
350 chevys have been around for decades without oil coolers....
@@FullThrottle316 Your 100 % correct.The best small block known to man..Chevy 5.7 liter 350 cu in small block didn`t come with oil cooler lines.They ran fine without oil cooler lines.
Chevy guys
Just run a separate oil cooler with better fittings. Same thing with the transmission lines .lol
I put mine on a 98 350 without bypass valve and it's leaking like crazy.
I'm overhauling a 98 K10 rate now because the oil cooler in the radiator leaked coolant into the engine and oil into the cooling system. What a mess, was a great running engine until this happened, bearings are shot. Will still run a remote cooler but never to the cooling system. Oil to air.
You sure it was the radiator that did that and not the intake gaskets?
Must delete EGR also if deleting oil cooler. Not optional. EGR system adds significant heat to engine balanced only by oil cooler.
How would you go about deleting the egr? I want to attempt this, but do not want to affect how the engine runs. i just bought an EGR valve and a new MAP sensor. The mechanic who rebuilt the motor says no big deal, that hes done it on all engines he's rebuilt. Deleting the cooler lines that is.
@@justinsaenz7903 did you ever find out about deleting the egr if deleting the oil cooler and how did you go about deleting the egr on your 5.7L
what's that part called? I don't know the name
Oil filter bypass adapter
Oil filter By-Pass Valve. Torque specification is 120 inch pounds (10 foot pounds)
Why not just replace the leaking parts and get another 100k out of it? You know, the square o ring, the quick connects, some thread sealant on the bolts and call it a day. Fucking hacks.
charlietow even new aftermarket oil cooler lines are known to start leaking rather quickly after theyre replaced.
I replace at least half a dozen cooler lines a year. Never have any come back leaking, and if I did, I offer a 24k 24month warranty, and the parts suppliers typically offer a lifetime warranty on the parts.
😂 "not worth the hassle"?! I hope you're not hassling your truck with any type of towing after this. Oil consumption will be your first indication you made a mistake. Followed by probably either piston slap or a rod knock
its a god damn chevy towing aint no issue.
Exactly
Ford is the one that has the issues towing
I have a 96 chevy 2500 with L31-R vortec engine all original...no factory oil cooler no oil cooler filter adapter hub sticking out ..I have just a regular filter going straight in the block vertically ...I pull tool enclosed tool trailer every day for work ,,,13 years , no problems..no temperature changes ever ...it does have a heavy duty external transmission cooler on it was there when I bought the truck ..my temperature stays at 180°-195° never above
#shadetreewannabe”mechanic”