I work in medicine. We use ultrasound all the time to diagnose illness. Someone should come up with a process to ultrasound the hull of a boat (pay for it before you buy it). Would be nice to diagnose this on the hard, or be able to pass on buying the boat completely. Maybe they already do. Anyway, good job. Your channel is great!
Bro great job! you caught those cracks on time and that keel issue has been haunting me ever since T&C cause i knew it was absorbing water (no mater how small the crack) and yeah those impellers dont last. You did an awesome job, Great adventures ahead the future is bright.
Great job, though I probably would suggest a bottom blast in your near future to remove all those layers of paint and check for further delamination and spider cracking. With regular use of your engines, impellers should be inspected yearly and replace as needed at the very least. A lot of people completely replace yearly as regular maintenance, keeping the old as an emergency spare.
If you can get them for your engines, get the blue Globe Marine impellers. They cost like a little more than a standard impeller, but are three times more durable and last three times as long. Definitely a good investment considering how much engines cost. Also make sure you purchase an audible engine overheat alarm for each engine if you don't have one. The alarm will save you 15 grand when you lose water flow and don't notice.
Owning a boatyard for many years in the Northeast the general rule of thumb for servicing the raw water pump was once a season or every 100 hours. Engines like the Yanmar in your boat do not like to be overheated you will shorten the life of the engine considerably. When servicing the raw water pump it is not just replacing the impeller you also have the seals to look at and make sure they are not leaking. You also have the wear plate behind the impeller the cam and the cover plate. When doing the service you should lube the pump housing with Luberplate grease. When loosing impeller blades as you did you need to open up the heat exchanger and remove all the dabree from the pump/impeller, you will need to count the broken blades to make sure you retreaved all the blades, also now would be a good time to remove the heat exchanger bundle and make sure all the cooling tubes are 100% clean if you see any corrosion I would recommend you dip the bundle in a bath of muriatic acid to clean away corrosion.
This might be a really stupid question but is there any reason why you couldn’t fit a strainer after the water pump prior to it going into the heat exchanger so that if an impeller fails the bits get caught...easy clean out rather than dismantle heat exchanger hoses and go hunting for bits? Plus you could keep an eye on the strainer for any visible bits letting you know the impeller has failed.
I would inspect the entire hull to see if there are any other cracks... hull cracks or blisters are like cockroaches, by the time u find one, you can bet there are others.
Yeah. I did a walk around. Had the two bad spots. One questionable that I did grind out and reglass. And then one to keep an eye on but seemed probably ok. And while I didn’t show it I did pop dry and putty in about 20-25 of the biggest blisters (dime sized or bigger)
There's a hole in the boat, dear liza dear liza, there's a hole in the boat, dear liza, a hole! With what shall I fix it, dear liza dear liza, with what shall I fix it, dear liza, with what? Thought you might like this, Jess and Ryan!
One item I did not mention in my last comment is when you have a pump / impeller failure as you had you will need to Check all the elbows on the exhaust / exit side of the pump. Many times I have found impeller blades stuck in an elbow. This is another reason to count the blades. If you do not find the blades when counting them during this process then you need to go back into the system and find them. Make sure the heat exchanger is first in line after the pump. Sometimes there is a oil cooler between the HE. and the pump.
Looks very nice and I like the amount of work you are doing. Who said us computer nerds are not practical :-) One thing though, you really should change the impellers at least once a year and more often if you do a lot of engine hours. -rune
The hull in that part of the boat runs about 1/4 inch thick. It’s a flaw of the model in my opinion though many of this model sail around the world. I added another 3/8 ish around the cracked spot for about the diameter of a soft ball. Then tapered the repair out thinner and thinner as to not make my own hard spot. Total repair diameter for this tennis ball sized weak spot was probably 18inches. That with the fact that I’m using expoxy resin means it’s probably on of the stronger parts of the hull now.
James Miller - you need to take a physics class..... There was a single point of "failure" where the stringer was against the hull. With the fix, they distributed the force / load at that point by over 600%.
I work in medicine. We use ultrasound all the time to diagnose illness. Someone should come up with a process to ultrasound the hull of a boat (pay for it before you buy it). Would be nice to diagnose this on the hard, or be able to pass on buying the boat completely. Maybe they already do. Anyway, good job. Your channel is great!
Bro great job! you caught those cracks on time and that keel issue has been haunting me ever since T&C cause i knew it was absorbing water (no mater how small the crack) and yeah those impellers dont last. You did an awesome job, Great adventures ahead the future is bright.
Great job, Ryan !!! We are impressed at how much you know about boat repairs.
Great job, though I probably would suggest a bottom blast in your near future to remove all those layers of paint and check for further delamination and spider cracking. With regular use of your engines, impellers should be inspected yearly and replace as needed at the very least. A lot of people completely replace yearly as regular maintenance, keeping the old as an emergency spare.
Nice repair work. I always loved the way my bottom paint looked when I was finished, like fresh cut grass you can see the fruits of your labor.
If you can get them for your engines, get the blue Globe Marine impellers. They cost like a little more than a standard impeller, but are three times more durable and last three times as long. Definitely a good investment considering how much engines cost. Also make sure you purchase an audible engine overheat alarm for each engine if you don't have one. The alarm will save you 15 grand when you lose water flow and don't notice.
Owning a boatyard for many years in the Northeast the general rule of thumb for servicing the raw water pump was once a season or every 100 hours. Engines like the Yanmar in your boat do not like to be overheated you will shorten the life of the engine considerably. When servicing the raw water pump it is not just replacing the impeller you also have the seals to look at and make sure they are not leaking. You also have the wear plate behind the impeller the cam and the cover plate. When doing the service you should lube the pump housing with Luberplate grease.
When loosing impeller blades as you did you need to open up the heat exchanger and remove all the dabree from the pump/impeller, you will need to count the broken blades to make sure you retreaved all the blades, also now would be a good time to remove the heat exchanger bundle and make sure all the cooling tubes are 100% clean if you see any corrosion I would recommend you dip the bundle in a bath of muriatic acid to clean away corrosion.
Right on the money
Nice work! Inspiring to see it done by owners.
Awesome job with your fiberglass repair!
Nice glass work. I'm surprised though that impellers aren't an annual replacement item, no matter the engine time/usage, real or probable.
Every interesting. Nice work on your repairs.
Great video. How will you deal with painting the unfinished sections under the cradle supports?
Great Video Ryan!!!
Nice work, scary parts too, but you know what you’re doing, hope heat exchanger wasn’t too bad!
This is so cool, very informative.
I like the cleanliness of the boatyard, where is this place?
Way to go!
This might be a really stupid question but is there any reason why you couldn’t fit a strainer after the water pump prior to it going into the heat exchanger so that if an impeller fails the bits get caught...easy clean out rather than dismantle heat exchanger hoses and go hunting for bits? Plus you could keep an eye on the strainer for any visible bits letting you know the impeller has failed.
Interesting idea. Only issue i see right away is space. It’s a tight-ish fit. But probably doable. I’ll think on it. Might be worth a try.
1:14 - "exasterbated"
Hey, are you guys still in New Bern. We live there. Wondering if you’d mind visitors?
💯
I would inspect the entire hull to see if there are any other cracks... hull cracks or blisters are like cockroaches, by the time u find one, you can bet there are others.
Yeah. I did a walk around. Had the two bad spots. One questionable that I did grind out and reglass. And then one to keep an eye on but seemed probably ok. And while I didn’t show it I did pop dry and putty in about 20-25 of the biggest blisters (dime sized or bigger)
Great job! But I feel exhausted for you, that must have been tiring.
Love the channel, keep it going!
There's a hole in the boat, dear liza dear liza, there's a hole in the boat, dear liza, a hole! With what shall I fix it, dear liza dear liza, with what shall I fix it, dear liza, with what? Thought you might like this, Jess and Ryan!
One item I did not mention in my last comment is when you have a pump / impeller failure as you had you will need to Check all the elbows on the exhaust / exit side of the pump. Many times I have found impeller blades stuck in an elbow. This is another reason to count the blades. If you do not find the blades when counting them during this process then you need to go back into the system and find them. Make sure the heat exchanger is first in line after the pump. Sometimes there is a oil cooler between the HE. and the pump.
Sanding might be boring but I'd rather see some action rather than you just walking around the boat chattering away.
Looks very nice and I like the amount of work you are doing. Who said us computer nerds are not practical :-)
One thing though, you really should change the impellers at least once a year and more often if you do a lot of engine hours.
-rune
Yeah... no excuses. Grew complacent. Water was coming out till it wasn’t. Lol
Toxic paint, no clothes
You really should do your homework before posting...
I sure hope nobody is trying to learn from this! You made 1 spot a half inc thick? Lol you just made it weaker around that spot
The hull in that part of the boat runs about 1/4 inch thick. It’s a flaw of the model in my opinion though many of this model sail around the world. I added another 3/8 ish around the cracked spot for about the diameter of a soft ball. Then tapered the repair out thinner and thinner as to not make my own hard spot. Total repair diameter for this tennis ball sized weak spot was probably 18inches. That with the fact that I’m using expoxy resin means it’s probably on of the stronger parts of the hull now.
James Miller - you need to take a physics class..... There was a single point of "failure" where the stringer was against the hull. With the fix, they distributed the force / load at that point by over 600%.