I sewed four triangular pockets to the four corners of my quilt to be hung. I then inserted a sheet of thin plywood, (thick cardboard etc. will do), cut slightly smaller than the quilt, into the pockets. I punched small holes in the plywood to take wire or cord or whatever for hanging. This has kept the quilt hanging firm, without stretch or sag, and can be easily removed. Thanks for your helpful videos. From Down Under.
Bamboo batting is wonderful! Lightweight, drapes beautifully, warm in winter, cooler in summer. Grandkids have reported this - one set in the southeast and one set in Quebec! I have used double bamboo for wall hangings. Dream bamboo is a favorite! Beautiful quilt! Please share when you are finished.
I quilted a quilt on point on the little foot frame. It was a diagonal pieced pattern that I quilted feathers on. Same as you, if I had loaded the quilt the normal way, I would be running out of quilting room real quick. It was actually very easy since it was the little foot frame and I just had to clamp it tightly.
Could you load the quilt square and baste it, then remove it from the frame, and at that point add the “square in a square” backing corners, and reload? I was thinking that doing that would insure the quilt is square. Loading it on point like this doesn’t allow checking seam alignment etc.
Yes, that's another way that you could tackle this same technique. That's one of the things I love about longarm quilting - there's so many ways to get to the same result!
This is great! I do a lot of hand appliqué and have done my first on point medallion style. I think I will try loading mine on point. I would have loved see how you did the cross hatching. I had a heck of a time trying to get mine to match up on another quilt I did. Will you be at road to California? Thanks so much for the great videos Kim and Kristina!
If you are able to do all horizontal lines, it makes it so much easier since you don't have to line things up as you advance. Neither of us will be at Road this year.
it might be helpful for us to see the backing out of the frame. Visually, it makes it easier to understand what you are doing. I got you you were doing, but I would like to have seen the backing outside of the frame. Thanks for the hints and tips.
I’m thinking a stay stitch along the edge of the added backing to help mitigate stretching since those long seams are on the bias just to stabilize it. But I’m sure it’s not imperative.
@@debhancock4564 stay stitching is a line of stitching all the way around the edge of something to offer a level of stabilization. For instance, if you have a highly pieced border on a quilt, you can run a line of stitching all the way around your quilt 1/8” from the edge (so its hidden in the seam). Typically you would use a smaller stitch length so your stitches are pretty small. This will prevent the seams from coming apart and help keep the quilt from stretching and distorting. It is often used during garment construction on necklines. The same concept can be applied to biased edges to help prevent stretching. I hope that was more helpful than confusing.
On the Amara 20, we have a setting that is basting stitch that is 1/4" long, which means there are 4 stitches per inch. I recommend either the 4 stitches per inch or 2 stitches per inch (1/2" stitch) for almost all types of basting.
How do you keep the thread from shredding when you go from right to left? I have the Avante and if I go more than 6 or 8 inches, and sometimes that being generous, the thread will start shredding and I have to stop, unpick a little and change directions.
This is a question we get all the time. Here are a few things you can try - make sure you're using the correct needle size to match your thread, keep your bobbin area VERY clean (remove lint often!), and it's been more than two years, it's time for your machine to have a spa day. Oiling your bobbin race every time you change your bobbin is another good tip!
Do you have tips on quilting on point when the widest part of the quilt is too long to fit in your frame? Have you quilted on point when the quilt is rectangle?
I use zippers to load at any rate, so no pins. I do have a quilt that I want to load this way to quilt on point with feathers in e/o 'row', and it's been sitting there waiting for my courage.
Kim, that quilt is absolutely gorgeous!!! such impressive hand work
awww thank you! I really enjoyed making this quilt.
Looking forward to seeing what you quilt, Kim. Helpful info!
Oh, using and keeping a sheet/extra fabric triangles for the backing is a great idea!!! This tutorial answered so many questions for me, thank you!
It would be nice to see the cross hatching on point and how to line it all up? Great quilt-thank you for sharing. 😊
I sewed four triangular pockets to the four corners of my quilt to be hung. I then inserted a sheet of thin plywood, (thick cardboard etc. will do), cut slightly smaller than the quilt, into the pockets. I punched small holes in the plywood to take wire or cord or whatever for hanging. This has kept the quilt hanging firm, without stretch or sag, and can be easily removed. Thanks for your helpful videos. From Down Under.
Bamboo batting is wonderful! Lightweight, drapes beautifully, warm in winter, cooler in summer. Grandkids have reported this - one set in the southeast and one set in Quebec! I have used double bamboo for wall hangings. Dream bamboo is a favorite! Beautiful quilt! Please share when you are finished.
There are a couple more videos that will be coming out that will show the finished quilt!
Thank you for all the tips
I use pins when I float and the do the edge. Zig-Zag really help for some of charity quilts I have quilted.
My friend has used that batting combo so much we invested in a roll of each. They are fantastic individually as well as combined. Great choice!
Fantastic tutorial with a lot of handy tips for a new and intermed longarm quilter! Thanks Gals
Great information, Thanks!
"accidentally puncture a lung" Kristina you are a hoot! Love it.
Excellent tutorial. This is a gorgeous quilt, please show us the finished quilting. xxx
There are a couple more videos that will be coming out that will show the finished quilt!
I quilted a quilt on point on the little foot frame. It was a diagonal pieced pattern that I quilted feathers on. Same as you, if I had loaded the quilt the normal way, I would be running out of quilting room real quick. It was actually very easy since it was the little foot frame and I just had to clamp it tightly.
Could you load the quilt square and baste it, then remove it from the frame, and at that point add the “square in a square” backing corners, and reload? I was thinking that doing that would insure the quilt is square. Loading it on point like this doesn’t allow checking seam alignment etc.
Yes, that's another way that you could tackle this same technique. That's one of the things I love about longarm quilting - there's so many ways to get to the same result!
I never know what is going to come out of my mouth!! -Kristina
This is great! I do a lot of hand appliqué and have done my first on point medallion style. I think I will try loading mine on point. I would have loved see how you did the cross hatching. I had a heck of a time trying to get mine to match up on another quilt I did. Will you be at road to California? Thanks so much for the great videos Kim and Kristina!
If you are able to do all horizontal lines, it makes it so much easier since you don't have to line things up as you advance.
Neither of us will be at Road this year.
You can use water soluble thread in top. Easy peasy to get rid of by spraying with water or washing quilt when done.
it might be helpful for us to see the backing out of the frame. Visually, it makes it easier to understand what you are doing. I got you you were doing, but I would like to have seen the backing outside of the frame. Thanks for the hints and tips.
After you cross hatch the center, will you take it off and turn it straight for the rest of the quilting?
Once it is loaded, all the quilting with be done as it. So, no, it will not be loaded a third time so that it is loaded "straight".
I’m thinking a stay stitch along the edge of the added backing to help mitigate stretching since those long seams are on the bias just to stabilize it. But I’m sure it’s not imperative.
what is a stay stitch?
@@debhancock4564 stay stitching is a line of stitching all the way around the edge of something to offer a level of stabilization. For instance, if you have a highly pieced border on a quilt, you can run a line of stitching all the way around your quilt 1/8” from the edge (so its hidden in the seam). Typically you would use a smaller stitch length so your stitches are pretty small. This will prevent the seams from coming apart and help keep the quilt from stretching and distorting. It is often used during garment construction on necklines. The same concept can be applied to biased edges to help prevent stretching.
I hope that was more helpful than confusing.
@@anitra7747 rock star, thanks
what is the best stitch length for basting something like this?? you mentioned 1/4 inch, what does that mean?
4 stitches to the inch.🌸
On the Amara 20, we have a setting that is basting stitch that is 1/4" long, which means there are 4 stitches per inch. I recommend either the 4 stitches per inch or 2 stitches per inch (1/2" stitch) for almost all types of basting.
@@kimsandberg1364 rock stars! thank you, thought as much, but wanted to make sure.
How do you keep the thread from shredding when you go from right to left? I have the Avante and if I go more than 6 or 8 inches, and sometimes that being generous, the thread will start shredding and I have to stop, unpick a little and change directions.
This is a question we get all the time. Here are a few things you can try - make sure you're using the correct needle size to match your thread, keep your bobbin area VERY clean (remove lint often!), and it's been more than two years, it's time for your machine to have a spa day. Oiling your bobbin race every time you change your bobbin is another good tip!
Do you have tips on quilting on point when the widest part of the quilt is too long to fit in your frame? Have you quilted on point when the quilt is rectangle?
I haven't tried that yet. It's a great idea for a video - stay tuned!
I use zippers to load at any rate, so no pins.
I do have a quilt that I want to load this way to quilt on point with feathers in e/o 'row', and it's been sitting there waiting for my courage.
Tell us about the wall hanging quilt behind you please wowza
It is a quilt that my grandmother made. I don't have a pattern name or anything. I did the longarm quilting to finish it. -Kristina
When you baste the entire quilt how far apart? every 4" or more. I have real problems.
About 4" is good.