Your 18 and 3/4 inches have me lost ,shouldn't your deduction be 15 1/2inches deducted from your common rafter length then 16 inches deduction on all the other jack rafters as opposed to 19 1/4 inches?
@@jimmyreid6516 Those deductions are measured along the top edges of the jack rafters along the slope of the rafters. Each jack rafter will get 19 1/4" shorter each time. Were you thinking that the deductions were for the layout of the jacks measuring along the plates? I hope this answers your question. Thanks for watching!
@RoofFramersBible I know that they are not plate measurements, I did a plan view scale of the hip and jack rafters and did my on center number which was 16 oc and my first jack rafter was 15 and a half inches short from the long point, so where you have 18 and 3/4inches I have 15 and 1/2 inches then my next deduction on the second jack rafter is adjusted to 16 just like the on center number and every jack rafter after the first in now adjusted at 16 inches .
@@jimmyreid6516 Ok, it sounds like you are looking at a plan view "flat" drawing. So the dimensions you are giving are horizontal measurements of the rafter run and not the rafter lengths. On an 8/12 pitch the 16" of rafter run (horizontal measurement), will be 19 1/4" of rafter length measuring along the top edge of the sloping rafter. This is of course the "jack difference" when stepping down the jack rafters spaced 16" O.C.
@RoofFramersBible today I made a mock up roof using 6/12 slope and I tried your 18 and 3/4 and it didn't work I measured down my common rafter 15and 1/2 and squared that number it gave me a perfect 16 on center so I am truly lost at the 18 3/4 first deduction because I can't seem to fit that number anywhere and come out with 16 on center, I did the scale drawing and did the mock up and the of them works.
Thanks Barry for a great video! Just a note for viewers, as the model didn't show this: don't forget that rafters need to be tied with ceiling joists to be structurally sound.
Extremely clear demonstration outlining the appropriate setting out and cutting of timbers for a regular hipped roof. The close up shots of the junction between the common rafters, the hip rafter and the ridge board to demonstrate how the seat cut for the hip rafter could be dropped and the top edges of the hip rafter chamfered, was really helpful. Likewise, the explanation on producing appropriate Jack rafter lengths was most useful ( again related to the geometry in the vicinity of the ridge board, the hip rafter and common rafter). Thanks for providing this content - it simplifies many concepts for those of us wishing to learn about roof construction.
I’m glad you came along and that I found you.Thx for sharing your tips and tricks, and to clarify on how to use the roof bible.Your a legend ,Thankyou.
I am a second year apprentice. I have a huge test on roof framing system next week. I’m gonna watch your videos and study so hard. You videos definitely make it more easier for me to understand. As I have never framed in my career. So much terminology and maths involved. But I know I can do it. By watching your videos and studying my modules.
No kidding! All the big time homebuilders and other homebuilders do nowadays is rely on manufactured trusses. Trusses suck if you want an attic space that's walkable, so that's where stick framing roof rafters comes in. Dying art indeed.
Another great video, Barry! I wish I had these resources 20 years earlier when I was framing... always had to leave the rafters to the older guys. Keep these coming!
Hey Thomas. I'm glad these are helpful, but remember the main question is not how to do things right, but rather finding the right things to do.Thanks for watching!
Yeah .. Wish I had these resources years ago as well . Seemingly the old guys kept it secret and all to themselves and worked ya like a mule carrying plywood and floor joist all day .. LOL..
@@Sjwolosz321Fr that's how a lot of old guys be and unnecessarily at that! Lol. Luckily not all of them are like that, just the ones that got into the trades not by choice, but out of necessity hence their desire for job security for some of them.
@@RoofFramersBible the salient point for me is how, and where to generate measurements. Understanding the geometry, ratios of angles, and knowing when to add/subtract material thickness has been super helpful! Really all of the angular math in building any structure (that has squares and triangles) boils down to chugging out ratios!
You are exactly right! Once you understand the principles you can build anything. Just take it piece by piece and solve for that next triangle. Thanks for watching!
Excited for future videos! Have you seen the method of not dropping the hip and clipping the corner of the top plate at 45 this planes the HAP line with the commons and lines everything up perfectly as well. Would love for you to show the explanation as you did a great job showing the jack dedudctions
You’ve put together a great set of videos on roof framing that compliment The Roof Framer’s Bible! Can you explain, or maybe do a video on, valley rafters and valley jacks? Thank you!
Thanks Aaron. Did you see our first video on basic gable roofs? It covers the details of cutting common rafters. We will be posting more videos soon. Next up are two videos on irregular, or bastard hip roofs (parts 1 and 2). These will show how Roof Framer's Bible is used to get all the detailed info needed for these complex roofs. The rafter tables and related info are fully explained.
@@RoofFramersBible Yes, I did see the other video and will go back in and like... I'm glad your going to continue with this series, I believe that the rafter tables and the square are two of the most overlooked when roofing is being explained. So please don't leave any stones un-turned.
Thinking on building a 30x40 pole barn with this style rafter, I’m thinking on 2x12x16 as common rafters resting on 2 2x12x16 nail together for beams with 3 inch actual thickness, the poles would be 6x6. Also 3 poles on the middle to help with load bearing of the rafters. What pitch would you recommend?
The best pitch depends on what you are trying to achieve. Aesthetics will usually be the determining factor. Steeper pitches tend to look better. The type of roofing will also come into play. If you are using asphalt shingles you want to be at least a 4/12 pitch. If I am understanding you correctly as having a row of supports under the ridge, you probably don't need 2x12 rafters. Unless you are in a very high snow load area, you can probably use 2x8 rafters. That is if they are on 16" centers. The size of rafters and the perimeter beam are determined by the design load. I hope this is of help. Thanks for watching!
Great video, question I'm trying to make a hip roof for a shed the dimensions are 24'x24' what would my ridge be? 24 Length - 24 Deep=0 plus the thickness of the ridge 1 1/2. So my ridge would be 1 1/2. Thanks
After watching your excellent video, I want to build a 3 sided hip roof over half of my new 20x20’ deck - instead of the planned gable roof extension of the house’s gable roof - but have so many questions. I see you’re very responsive, maybe you’d entertain a few? In the video there are no columns, and the ridge beam appears to be held up only by the rafters. Is this common? Doesn’t having no columns put extreme outward pressure on the walls? Would having no columns holding up the ridge beam be suitable for a deck roof where uplift from strong winds will get under the roof? I’m very curious in how to best connect all the rafters where they meet at the ridge beam. It appears you used only nails and no metal fasteners (e.g. Simpson Strongtie). Does the video show the finished structure or would you typically go back in and add rafter hangers, hurricane ties, straps over the ridge and/or other metal connectors? Can the hip roof have the same vaulted/cathedral ceiling inside as a gable roof? Thanks from S. Ohio.
Those are some very perceptive questions. The model in the video is just a temporary mockup. Typically a "stick-built" hip roof would have struts under the ends of the ridge, hips, valleys, etc. However, for some roof configurations, you can eliminate those struts if you have proper ceiling joist ties across the structure. As you correctly note, the walls would push out without them. An open structure would need some uplift resistance. How much would depend on your wind zone. The same is true for the rafter connections. In many wind zones nailed connections are all that is required. Typically hip roofs cannot be vaulted without some type of ceiling tie. Normally you would need either ceiling joists, or perhaps timber trusses to support those points as the end of the ridge. Sometimes people will use steel rods across the structure to furnish the ceiling tie. My limited video presentation obviously can't cover all structural variations. I wish I could give exact answers to your questions, but there are simply too many variables: the size of the structure, the pitch of the roof, the wind zone. the design loads (snow loads etc.), the type of framing material used, and many others. I hope this answers some of your questions. Thanks for watching!
Usually you would just set common rafters on the sides and end of the ridge. That will set the ridge height. You would then just strut under the ridge down to a wall to support it. Of course you could also calculate the ridge height. Simply take the adjusted run of the common rafter and use that to calculate the rise. Then you add the H.A.P. (height above plate) of the common rafter. That will give you the height to the top of the ridge. If some of that isn't clear to you, watch this video. ua-cam.com/video/mjBEeN-O_Oc/v-deo.html
True. If you drop the hip instead of backing the corners of the hip, then yes, the soffit cut of the hip rafter would be trimmed off by the same amount. Thanks for watching!
When you said you should use the length of rafter to tail instead of HAP … how do you figure out the total length of the hip rafter considering the overhang is different on a hip? How did you know how much length to add on?
You can use several methods. You can physically lay it out with the framing square, or you can calculate the hip length. In our example since we were using an easy 12" overhang on the common, then the hip tail run was 17" which we laid out with the framing square. Or, you can use Roof Framer's Bible to get either the tail length or get the entire length of the hip. You could also use the tables on the framing square. Thanks for watching!
Hi, brilliant book, just brilliant. Can i ask in regards to a standard (pitch same on all sides) hip roof, is it advisable to always drop the hip lower than the HAP of the common rafters as illustrated in the book? And in regards to irregular or bastard hip roofs you don't do that?
Yes, you would typically drop the hip to avoid having to "back" the hip. For a bastard hip, if the pitch difference isn't too great you could cheat a little and just drop the hip an average of the two hip drops. But if you want to be completely accurate then you would need to back each side of the bastard hip rafter. Thanks for watching!
Both the ridge and the hips have to be a minimum of one size larger than the common rafters used. So, for 2x6 common rafters they would need to be at least 2x8's. This is so that the angled plumb cuts will have full bearing on the ridge or hip. However, if the ridges or hips are long and /or unsupported they may need to be a larger size. Consult your structural design or engineer. Thanks for watching!
And for the hip roof. Is it a case where the thickness of the lumber must be added back to find a ridge after taking away length from the width of the building
@@SherlonCampbell If you have deducted for half the ridge and use that common run to get the hip length, it will already be adjusted for the ridge. Of course many carpenters will just set the ridge and commons and then just measure to get the hip length. Either way is fine.
Because the H.A.P. of the hip must be the same as the H.A.P. of the common. As you say, the birdsmouth (and therefore the H.A.P.) of the common is set by the width of the wall plate. For the top of the hip rafter to plane out with the commons on each side, the H.A.P. of the hip must match that of the commons. Since the hip is a different pitch, using the H.A.P. of the common makes the seat cut longer than that of the common. Thanks for your interest and thanks for watching!
This whole time, I thought you were saying from the o-ring, and I'm over here trying to figure out what the heck you're talking about... halfway through, I hear overHANG, lmao.
No, in fact the hip is required to be one size larger than the jack rafters that bear against it, i.e. a 2x8 for 2x6 jack rafters. This is so the cut on the end of the jack rafter will have full bearing on the hip. The same is also true of the ridge board. Great question. Thanks for watching!
What do you do if the short hip king common rafter is not on 16 in on center? The long hip you mentioned and have shown. But on the short hip if you want to go 16" on center, then one side will not match on the 45 degree hip.
I'm not 100% understanding your question, but if rafters are off layout for any reason it is easy to adjust the jack rafter lengths. Roof Framer's Bible for each pitch gives a figure of "jack rafter length per inch of layout", that is used to quickly make those adjustments. Thanks for watching!
The illustration first shown at about 1:10 min. appears to have an issue. The left end hip has 3 jack rafters on one side of the king common while the other side has 4 jack rafters!
You have a very sharp eye! I actually had never noticed that. That is an isometric drawing to illustrate it in 3D. It was drawn for perspective and is not a scale drawing. You are correct. Thanks for watching!
I don't mind using common length difference for hip jacks rafter on small spans . I will not use CLD on a large home with a 48' hip... Even the least minor deviation " In the perfect world of framing " can lead to customizing every sheet .. If I do a hip to heel sweep measurement and transfer the HAP or as I call The Heel Plumb Cut Line . Then find the second to the shortest with a heel sweep off the lead rafter . Then transfer the HPCL .. subtract the shortest from the longest and divide by what the book says is the CLD as a constant . I generally find a real world error and refine it . If a book says the constant is 19.22 but my calculations come out to 19.27 according to what's exist in the field . Those .05 " add up quick per rafter. So then I'll input a new constant and begin deducting from the longest and it will return to the second shortest and further deductions will find the shortest with supreme accuracy . I can use every descending 4th hip jack rafter as a hip stabilizing brace and fill in the blanks without layout and achieve deadly precision in an imprecise world . This method keeps every one humming along .. I also teach my guys to write numbers like 18'-3-3/8" as 219-6 .. Another thing that can cause a headache if the HPCL at he hip . How many times have we all seen a hip not being lowered at it's specific height and many wonder why it whiplashes up like a pagoda. Also . I like to draft a visual pyramid for a a bastard hip/ valley , Calculate all angles , cheek cuts , inclinations, plate settings and have all the trig ratios. I call it a Rosetta Stone where I can see what has to happen and have it hanging near my blueprint table .. When dealing with some insane roofs with 20 uncommon pitches all colliding .Better have your brain on high alert .
I agree with the "better have your brain on high alert" comment! Framing a complex roof isn't for the faint of heart. Certainly there will be site errors that can throw off the calculated lengths, however I have found that if the foundation is level, square, and true dimension it is amazing how well the calculated lengths will fit. As the old saying goes, "math doesn't lie". But at the end of the day the carpenter has to work with what he is given and make it work. My hat is off to all the hard working carpenters out there busting a gut everyday to deliver quality. It isn't easy. I know because I've been there. Best wishes, and thanks for watching!
It is an easy calculation. You use the common rafter run to calculate the rise. Now this rise is along the top of the rafter, so you will need to add the H.A.P. (height above plate) When you cut the birdsmouth, the H.A.P. is the distance from the wall plate up to the top of the rafter at the outside edge of the wall. If you watch my video - Beginner's Guide to Roof Framing, it explains that in detail. Thanks for watching!
No, the pitch of the hip would not change. The entire hip would drop straight down and remain the same pitch. The H.A.P. also would not change from the common. It would just be measured at the edges of the hip instead of at the center of the hip. Thanks for watching!
Yes and no. Dropping the hip instead of backing the hip, does lower the hip rafter and change the H.A.P. on the edges of the hip, but not at the intersection of the roof planes at the center of the hip. When you don't back the hip, the edges of the hip are too high to plane out with the roof on each side. That is why you drop the hip. Of course if you back the hip, you don't have to do anything and the H.A.P. is fine just like it is. I hope I was able to answer your question.
@@pabloteran7082 The hip drop varies by the roof pitch and whether it is a regular hip or a bastard. Yes, the thicker hip will require a greater hip drop. If it is a regular hip it will be proportional to the drop for 2x material. Half the thickness difference from 2x, so 3/16 difference from centerline. You add a little to the hip drop, but it would only be roughly 1/8" more than the standard hip drop for that pitch. Good luck with it!
So... the king common is NOT the same length as the commons because you don't subtract half the thickness of the ridge... right? Damn good video though, Bud!
Here is how I get the length of the hip and the first jack My book gives the length by the span of the building say it is 24 ' so I deduct the with of the ridge so I would look up 23' 10 1/2 '' and that would be the length of the common. but under hip and valley I would look up the same length and that would give the exact length of the hip or valley no shorting. to get the length of the first jack. I take a cut common and let the tape hang over 7/8'' inch because the exact length of the common to the center of the ridge is about 7/8'' longer than the cut length.. then I take 1/2 the diagonal of 7/8'' and that is 1 1/4 let the tape hang over 7/8'' and subtract 3/4'' from 1'' and a quater that is 1/2'' then deduct the differrence in length
Para obtener la altura de la cumbrera, debe agregar la altura sobre la placa (H.A.P.) a la altura de la viga común. Lo lamento. No hablo español, así que estoy usando una aplicación de traducción. Espero que responda a tu pregunta.
We have sold them to Ireland before. I don't know if Amazon has had a change of policy with regards to Ireland. Unfortunately we do not offer international orders except through Amazon. I will look into it. Thanks for watching!
It's OK, my good lady wife has just informed me that she has managed to order it. I don't know how she did it but she did. Looking forward to reading the bible
I hear that from time to time. The word bible just means "book". So Holy Bible is the "Holy Book". In modern usage bible is used to denote "the definitive reference". That is want I intended Roof Framer's Bible to be, anything and everything a framer would need. Thanks for watching!
I have heard that from time to time. The word bible just means book, so the Holy Bible is the holy book. In modern usage bible is used to signify "the comprehensive reference". That is what I wanted Roof Framer's Bible to be, the comprehensive reference to all thinks roof framing. Thanks for watching!
Personally I like gables more. Less a job to roof and cheaper for joists, roof sheeting and roofing material. Get your run of starters cut to start and your done in half the time! Sorry to disappoint you!
Yep, gables have their advantages. Hips do as well. For instance you don't have to buy or install the siding in the gable ends. They both are just tools in the architects toolbox. Thanks for watching!
@@RoofFramersBible Fun fact: Shed roofs, gable roofs and hip roofs have the same surface area when they have the same size, same pitch and same overhangs.
Thanks for watching! Be sure to check out our playlist for all of our videos
ua-cam.com/play/PLnAGFrVJFLUvFnLYGOE40E3ye9vtuXjY8.html
Your 18 and 3/4 inches have me lost ,shouldn't your deduction be 15 1/2inches deducted from your common rafter length then 16 inches deduction on all the other jack rafters as opposed to 19 1/4 inches?
@@jimmyreid6516 Those deductions are measured along the top edges of the jack rafters along the slope of the rafters. Each jack rafter will get 19 1/4" shorter each time. Were you thinking that the deductions were for the layout of the jacks measuring along the plates? I hope this answers your question. Thanks for watching!
@RoofFramersBible I know that they are not plate measurements, I did a plan view scale of the hip and jack rafters and did my on center number which was 16 oc and my first jack rafter was 15 and a half inches short from the long point, so where you have 18 and 3/4inches I have 15 and 1/2 inches then my next deduction on the second jack rafter is adjusted to 16 just like the on center number and every jack rafter after the first in now adjusted at 16 inches .
@@jimmyreid6516 Ok, it sounds like you are looking at a plan view "flat" drawing. So the dimensions you are giving are horizontal measurements of the rafter run and not the rafter lengths. On an 8/12 pitch the 16" of rafter run (horizontal measurement), will be 19 1/4" of rafter length measuring along the top edge of the sloping rafter. This is of course the "jack difference" when stepping down the jack rafters spaced 16" O.C.
@RoofFramersBible today I made a mock up roof using 6/12 slope and I tried your 18 and 3/4 and it didn't work I measured down my common rafter 15and 1/2 and squared that number it gave me a perfect 16 on center so I am truly lost at the 18 3/4 first deduction because I can't seem to fit that number anywhere and come out with 16 on center, I did the scale drawing and did the mock up and the of them works.
One of the best videos I have ever seen to describe a hip roof construction, excellent explanation!
Thanks. Our goal is to make the explanation clear. If I fail to do so please let me know! Thanks for watching.
Thanks Barry for a great video! Just a note for viewers, as the model didn't show this: don't forget that rafters need to be tied with ceiling joists to be structurally sound.
You are correct. If the ridge isn't directly supported, then a solid ceiling joist tie across the building is required. Thanks for watching!
Extremely clear demonstration outlining the appropriate setting out and cutting of timbers for a regular hipped roof. The close up shots of the junction between the common rafters, the hip rafter and the ridge board to demonstrate how the seat cut for the hip rafter could be dropped and the top edges of the hip rafter chamfered, was really helpful. Likewise, the explanation on producing appropriate Jack rafter lengths was most useful ( again related to the geometry in the vicinity of the ridge board, the hip rafter and common rafter). Thanks for providing this content - it simplifies many concepts for those of us wishing to learn about roof construction.
Thanks for watching!
I’m glad you came along and that I found you.Thx for sharing your tips and tricks, and to clarify on how to use the roof bible.Your a legend ,Thankyou.
Glad it was helpful!
I am a second year apprentice. I have a huge test on roof framing system next week. I’m gonna watch your videos and study so hard. You videos definitely make it more easier for me to understand. As I have never framed in my career. So much terminology and maths involved. But I know I can do it. By watching your videos and studying my modules.
That is awesome! I'm so glad the videos were helpful to you. Divide and conquer, and you can master any task. Best wishes in all you do!
Ordered my copy of Roof Framers Bible today
Great! Thanks for watching.
It's been great to have it book to look at as I'm watching the video..keep them coming
send me a copy
oh, that's how it's done, great stuff. looking forward to more framing tips.
More to come!
Roof cutting is a dying art. Glad to see these videos on youtube.
Thanks for watching!
You tube is the only one keeping us together.
No kidding! All the big time homebuilders and other homebuilders do nowadays is rely on manufactured trusses. Trusses suck if you want an attic space that's walkable, so that's where stick framing roof rafters comes in. Dying art indeed.
Another great video, Barry! I wish I had these resources 20 years earlier when I was framing... always had to leave the rafters to the older guys. Keep these coming!
Hey Thomas. I'm glad these are helpful, but remember the main question is not how to do things right, but rather finding the right things to do.Thanks for watching!
Yeah .. Wish I had these resources years ago as well . Seemingly the old guys kept it secret and all to themselves and worked ya like a mule carrying plywood and floor joist all day .. LOL..
@@Sjwolosz321Fr that's how a lot of old guys be and unnecessarily at that! Lol. Luckily not all of them are like that, just the ones that got into the trades not by choice, but out of necessity hence their desire for job security for some of them.
The best video I have watched on framing. Keep the videos coming. Thanks
Thanks for watching!
Absolutely brilliant. Thank you. Marta Jersey UK
Thanks for watching!
GREATLY APPRECIATE YA TAKING THE TIME. Excellent Video!
Thanks for watching!
This channel is awesome.
I appreciate that!
Everything I’ve done with string lines and the Phonics method of building is clearly explained. This is so great!!
I'm glad it was helpful. Thanks for watching!
@@RoofFramersBible the salient point for me is how, and where to generate measurements. Understanding the geometry, ratios of angles, and knowing when to add/subtract material thickness has been super helpful!
Really all of the angular math in building any structure (that has squares and triangles) boils down to chugging out ratios!
You are exactly right! Once you understand the principles you can build anything. Just take it piece by piece and solve for that next triangle. Thanks for watching!
Excited for future videos! Have you seen the method of not dropping the hip and clipping the corner of the top plate at 45 this planes the HAP line with the commons and lines everything up perfectly as well. Would love for you to show the explanation as you did a great job showing the jack dedudctions
I have not used that method. I can see where that would work, but it would seem to be the "long way home". Thanks for watching.
i will be purchasing the book thank you sir
Great. Thanks for watching!
Thanks very helpful book , as well as your explanations
You’ve put together a great set of videos on roof framing that compliment The Roof Framer’s Bible! Can you explain, or maybe do a video on, valley rafters and valley jacks? Thank you!
I will consider doing that. Thanks for watching!
Very good 4 hip rafters & the jack rafters! I’ll buy your book!
Excellent! Thanks for watching!
Really helpful for turning an old electrician into d i y carpenter. Thanks.
Glad to be of help. Thanks for watching!
I from Papua New Guinea love your presentation thanks for that ❤❤
Wow, all the way from Papua New Guinea! I'm glad it was helpful. Thanks for watching!
Nice info... since you wrote the book, I'm hoping you will go into more detail about the rafter tables and more rafter mock-ups... Thanks
Thanks Aaron. Did you see our first video on basic gable roofs? It covers the details of cutting common rafters. We will be posting more videos soon. Next up are two videos on irregular, or bastard hip roofs (parts 1 and 2). These will show how Roof Framer's Bible is used to get all the detailed info needed for these complex roofs. The rafter tables and related info are fully explained.
@@RoofFramersBible Yes, I did see the other video and will go back in and like... I'm glad your going to continue with this series, I believe that the rafter tables and the square are two of the most overlooked when roofing is being explained. So please don't leave any stones un-turned.
Thinking on building a 30x40 pole barn with this style rafter, I’m thinking on 2x12x16 as common rafters resting on 2 2x12x16 nail together for beams with 3 inch actual thickness, the poles would be 6x6.
Also 3 poles on the middle to help with load bearing of the rafters.
What pitch would you recommend?
The best pitch depends on what you are trying to achieve. Aesthetics will usually be the determining factor. Steeper pitches tend to look better. The type of roofing will also come into play. If you are using asphalt shingles you want to be at least a 4/12 pitch. If I am understanding you correctly as having a row of supports under the ridge, you probably don't need 2x12 rafters. Unless you are in a very high snow load area, you can probably use 2x8 rafters. That is if they are on 16" centers. The size of rafters and the perimeter beam are determined by the design load. I hope this is of help. Thanks for watching!
Great video, question I'm trying to make a hip roof for a shed the dimensions are 24'x24' what would my ridge be? 24 Length - 24 Deep=0 plus the thickness of the ridge 1 1/2. So my ridge would be 1 1/2. Thanks
If it is a regular hip roof, then you are correct - 1 1/2". It's kind of hard to call that a ridge isn't it? Good luck, and thanks for watching.
Instead of using 1 1/2 as ridge the two first rafter should be full length without deduction the other two deduct 3/4 from both
Very good 📐🫡
Thanks for watching!
thnks for infro i learned a lot
Glad you benefited. Thanks for watching!
I'm very surprised you didn't use a string in your illustrations. Loved the video and the fantastic information. Where can I get a roof framers bible?
Glad you liked it. You can order a book by going to roofbible.com. Thanks for watching!
Solid ElderTradesman!
Thanks for watching!
After watching your excellent video, I want to build a 3 sided hip roof over half of my new 20x20’ deck - instead of the planned gable roof extension of the house’s gable roof - but have so many questions. I see you’re very responsive, maybe you’d entertain a few?
In the video there are no columns, and the ridge beam appears to be held up only by the rafters. Is this common? Doesn’t having no columns put extreme outward pressure on the walls? Would having no columns holding up the ridge beam be suitable for a deck roof where uplift from strong winds will get under the roof?
I’m very curious in how to best connect all the rafters where they meet at the ridge beam. It appears you used only nails and no metal fasteners (e.g. Simpson Strongtie). Does the video show the finished structure or would you typically go back in and add rafter hangers, hurricane ties, straps over the ridge and/or other metal connectors?
Can the hip roof have the same vaulted/cathedral ceiling inside as a gable roof?
Thanks from S. Ohio.
Those are some very perceptive questions. The model in the video is just a temporary mockup. Typically a "stick-built" hip roof would have struts under the ends of the ridge, hips, valleys, etc. However, for some roof configurations, you can eliminate those struts if you have proper ceiling joist ties across the structure. As you correctly note, the walls would push out without them. An open structure would need some uplift resistance. How much would depend on your wind zone. The same is true for the rafter connections. In many wind zones nailed connections are all that is required. Typically hip roofs cannot be vaulted without some type of ceiling tie. Normally you would need either ceiling joists, or perhaps timber trusses to support those points as the end of the ridge. Sometimes people will use steel rods across the structure to furnish the ceiling tie. My limited video presentation obviously can't cover all structural variations. I wish I could give exact answers to your questions, but there are simply too many variables: the size of the structure, the pitch of the roof, the wind zone. the design loads (snow loads etc.), the type of framing material used, and many others. I hope this answers some of your questions. Thanks for watching!
@@RoofFramersBible Thanks Barry - This is very helpful!
It's really great. It helped me study a lot. Thank you👍
I'm glad it helped. Thanks for watching!
Awesome!
Very clear
Thanks for watching!
How do start assembling the ridge beam? How high from the ground?
Usually you would just set common rafters on the sides and end of the ridge. That will set the ridge height. You would then just strut under the ridge down to a wall to support it. Of course you could also calculate the ridge height. Simply take the adjusted run of the common rafter and use that to calculate the rise. Then you add the H.A.P. (height above plate) of the common rafter. That will give you the height to the top of the ridge. If some of that isn't clear to you, watch this video. ua-cam.com/video/mjBEeN-O_Oc/v-deo.html
Sir,question if we drop the sit cut the bottom of the eave has to be cut as well to keep the same high with common rafters eave?thank you
True. If you drop the hip instead of backing the corners of the hip, then yes, the soffit cut of the hip rafter would be trimmed off by the same amount. Thanks for watching!
Hi sir how do you get the high of the roof
When you said you should use the length of rafter to tail instead of HAP … how do you figure out the total length of the hip rafter considering the overhang is different on a hip? How did you know how much length to add on?
You can use several methods. You can physically lay it out with the framing square, or you can calculate the hip length. In our example since we were using an easy 12" overhang on the common, then the hip tail run was 17" which we laid out with the framing square. Or, you can use Roof Framer's Bible to get either the tail length or get the entire length of the hip. You could also use the tables on the framing square. Thanks for watching!
Hi, brilliant book, just brilliant. Can i ask in regards to a standard (pitch same on all sides) hip roof, is it advisable to always drop the hip lower than the HAP of the common rafters as illustrated in the book?
And in regards to irregular or bastard hip roofs you don't do that?
Yes, you would typically drop the hip to avoid having to "back" the hip. For a bastard hip, if the pitch difference isn't too great you could cheat a little and just drop the hip an average of the two hip drops. But if you want to be completely accurate then you would need to back each side of the bastard hip rafter. Thanks for watching!
Should the hip rafter be the same board like the Ridge board, or the common rafter board can be used as the hip?
Both the ridge and the hips have to be a minimum of one size larger than the common rafters used. So, for 2x6 common rafters they would need to be at least 2x8's. This is so that the angled plumb cuts will have full bearing on the ridge or hip. However, if the ridges or hips are long and /or unsupported they may need to be a larger size. Consult your structural design or engineer. Thanks for watching!
When cutting the hip rafter. Do I deduct 1/2 the thickness of the ridge board from it, like the common rafter?
And for the hip roof. Is it a case where the thickness of the lumber must be added back to find a ridge after taking away length from the width of the building
@@SherlonCampbell If you have deducted for half the ridge and use that common run to get the hip length, it will already be adjusted for the ridge. Of course many carpenters will just set the ridge and commons and then just measure to get the hip length. Either way is fine.
Why don’t you cut the birds mouth of hip rafter with thickness of the wall as you did in the previous video on common rafter ?
Because the H.A.P. of the hip must be the same as the H.A.P. of the common. As you say, the birdsmouth (and therefore the H.A.P.) of the common is set by the width of the wall plate. For the top of the hip rafter to plane out with the commons on each side, the H.A.P. of the hip must match that of the commons. Since the hip is a different pitch, using the H.A.P. of the common makes the seat cut longer than that of the common. Thanks for your interest and thanks for watching!
@@RoofFramersBible Got it, cheers, pls keep doing it, I may enrol in a trade school and your videos will be more helpful.
@@narragopichand9982 Good luck. Thanks for watching!
This whole time, I thought you were saying from the o-ring, and I'm over here trying to figure out what the heck you're talking about... halfway through, I hear overHANG, lmao.
Ha! I can sympathize. I don't hear half of what my wife says. Thanks for watching!
Does the jack rafter have to be the same lumber as the hip rafter
No, in fact the hip is required to be one size larger than the jack rafters that bear against it, i.e. a 2x8 for 2x6 jack rafters. This is so the cut on the end of the jack rafter will have full bearing on the hip. The same is also true of the ridge board. Great question. Thanks for watching!
What do you do if the short hip king common rafter is not on 16 in on center? The long hip you mentioned and have shown. But on the short hip if you want to go 16" on center, then one side will not match on the 45 degree hip.
I'm not 100% understanding your question, but if rafters are off layout for any reason it is easy to adjust the jack rafter lengths. Roof Framer's Bible for each pitch gives a figure of "jack rafter length per inch of layout", that is used to quickly make those adjustments. Thanks for watching!
The illustration first shown at about 1:10 min. appears to have an issue. The left end hip has 3 jack rafters on one side of the king common while the other side has 4 jack rafters!
You have a very sharp eye! I actually had never noticed that. That is an isometric drawing to illustrate it in 3D. It was drawn for perspective and is not a scale drawing. You are correct. Thanks for watching!
I don't mind using common length difference for hip jacks rafter on small spans . I will not use CLD on a large home with a 48' hip... Even the least minor deviation " In the perfect world of framing " can lead to customizing every sheet .. If I do a hip to heel sweep measurement and transfer the HAP or as I call The Heel Plumb Cut Line . Then find the second to the shortest with a heel sweep off the lead rafter . Then transfer the HPCL .. subtract the shortest from the longest and divide by what the book says is the CLD as a constant . I generally find a real world error and refine it . If a book says the constant is 19.22 but my calculations come out to 19.27 according to what's exist in the field . Those .05 " add up quick per rafter. So then I'll input a new constant and begin deducting from the longest and it will return to the second shortest and further deductions will find the shortest with supreme accuracy . I can use every descending 4th hip jack rafter as a hip stabilizing brace and fill in the blanks without layout and achieve deadly precision in an imprecise world . This method keeps every one humming along .. I also teach my guys to write numbers like 18'-3-3/8" as 219-6 .. Another thing that can cause a headache if the HPCL at he hip . How many times have we all seen a hip not being lowered at it's specific height and many wonder why it whiplashes up like a pagoda. Also . I like to draft a visual pyramid for a a bastard hip/ valley , Calculate all angles , cheek cuts , inclinations, plate settings and have all the trig ratios. I call it a Rosetta Stone where I can see what has to happen and have it hanging near my blueprint table .. When dealing with some insane roofs with 20 uncommon pitches all colliding .Better have your brain on high alert .
I agree with the "better have your brain on high alert" comment! Framing a complex roof isn't for the faint of heart. Certainly there will be site errors that can throw off the calculated lengths, however I have found that if the foundation is level, square, and true dimension it is amazing how well the calculated lengths will fit. As the old saying goes, "math doesn't lie". But at the end of the day the carpenter has to work with what he is given and make it work. My hat is off to all the hard working carpenters out there busting a gut everyday to deliver quality. It isn't easy. I know because I've been there. Best wishes, and thanks for watching!
How do you get the height of the Ridge from the wall level
It is an easy calculation. You use the common rafter run to calculate the rise. Now this rise is along the top of the rafter, so you will need to add the H.A.P. (height above plate) When you cut the birdsmouth, the H.A.P. is the distance from the wall plate up to the top of the rafter at the outside edge of the wall. If you watch my video - Beginner's Guide to Roof Framing, it explains that in detail. Thanks for watching!
If you had to do a hip drop and amend the H.A.P, would it technically change the pitch of the hip?
No, the pitch of the hip would not change. The entire hip would drop straight down and remain the same pitch. The H.A.P. also would not change from the common. It would just be measured at the edges of the hip instead of at the center of the hip. Thanks for watching!
@@RoofFramersBible That makes sense. Thank you.
By dropping the Hip after you cut it you do mess with the Hap right? I am confused in that part
Yes and no. Dropping the hip instead of backing the hip, does lower the hip rafter and change the H.A.P. on the edges of the hip, but not at the intersection of the roof planes at the center of the hip. When you don't back the hip, the edges of the hip are too high to plane out with the roof on each side. That is why you drop the hip. Of course if you back the hip, you don't have to do anything and the H.A.P. is fine just like it is. I hope I was able to answer your question.
@@RoofFramersBible ok thanks that answers my question, so if you are using an lvl for a Hip that measures 1-7/8 your drop will be 7/16?
@@pabloteran7082 The hip drop varies by the roof pitch and whether it is a regular hip or a bastard. Yes, the thicker hip will require a greater hip drop. If it is a regular hip it will be proportional to the drop for 2x material. Half the thickness difference from 2x, so 3/16 difference from centerline. You add a little to the hip drop, but it would only be roughly 1/8" more than the standard hip drop for that pitch. Good luck with it!
Thank you for answering my questions i just ordered the roofFramersBible for any other questions in the future thanks.
@@pabloteran7082 You are welcome. Thanks for watching!
Very informative but your makita sounds tired
Yep, me and that old saw have some miles on us! Thanks for watching.
So... the king common is NOT the same length as the commons because you don't subtract half the thickness of the ridge... right? Damn good video though, Bud!
There is more than one way to get the job done. Thanks for watching!
Do you offer in person classes? Where?
No classes here. Nick Ridge does that though. He is in California. He is on Instagram as "roofstacker". Thanks for watching!
@@RoofFramersBible thanks for replying!
Here is how I get the length of the hip and the first jack My book gives the length by the span of the building say it is 24 ' so I deduct the with of the ridge so I would look up 23' 10 1/2 '' and that would be the length of the common. but under hip and valley I would look up the same length and that would give the exact length of the hip or valley no shorting. to get the length of the first jack. I take a cut common and let the tape hang over 7/8'' inch because the exact length of the common to the center of the ridge is about 7/8'' longer than the cut length.. then I take 1/2 the diagonal of 7/8'' and that is 1 1/4 let the tape hang over 7/8'' and subtract 3/4'' from 1'' and a quater that is 1/2'' then deduct the differrence in length
That works! There is more than one way to skin the cat. Thanks for watching!
Una pregunta en este tipo se techos como se busca la altura del caballete con esas medidas de este ejemplo de este te ho del video
Para obtener la altura de la cumbrera, debe agregar la altura sobre la placa (H.A.P.) a la altura de la viga común. Lo lamento. No hablo español, así que estoy usando una aplicación de traducción. Espero que responda a tu pregunta.
@@RoofFramersBible
Gracias amigo por tu atención 👍
Tus videos son de mucha ayuda para my
Cant get the bible delivered from amazon to Ireland
We have sold them to Ireland before. I don't know if Amazon has had a change of policy with regards to Ireland. Unfortunately we do not offer international orders except through Amazon. I will look into it. Thanks for watching!
It's OK, my good lady wife has just informed me that she has managed to order it. I don't know how she did it but she did. Looking forward to reading the bible
Good deal! Thanks.
❤
Thanks for watching!
👍🏼
Thanks for watching!
I bet 90% of framers can frame this in their sleep and not know any of these terminology from this vid
Terminology does vary some from region to region, but the principles remain the same. Thanks for watching!
Good tutorial. A bit misspoken, misleading or incorrect on the 'length of ridge' calculations however.
I appreciate feedback. Thanks for watching!
Why comparing it to the bible tho ?
I hear that from time to time. The word bible just means "book". So Holy Bible is the "Holy Book". In modern usage bible is used to denote "the definitive reference". That is want I intended Roof Framer's Bible to be, anything and everything a framer would need. Thanks for watching!
Could you please change the name from bible to rules bible is for prayer,
I have heard that from time to time. The word bible just means book, so the Holy Bible is the holy book. In modern usage bible is used to signify "the comprehensive reference". That is what I wanted Roof Framer's Bible to be, the comprehensive reference to all thinks roof framing. Thanks for watching!
Sir how old do you sorry 😂😂
Ha! Old enough to have built thousands of homes. Good luck and thanks for watching!
Personally I like gables more. Less a job to roof and cheaper for joists, roof sheeting and roofing material. Get your run of starters cut to start and your done in half the time! Sorry to disappoint you!
Yep, gables have their advantages. Hips do as well. For instance you don't have to buy or install the siding in the gable ends. They both are just tools in the architects toolbox. Thanks for watching!
@@RoofFramersBible Fun fact: Shed roofs, gable roofs and hip roofs have the same surface area when they have the same size, same pitch and same overhangs.
I personally like having my house protected with a hip roof.