The misconception of refinishing wood stocks with popular oils.
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- Опубліковано 20 жов 2024
- Boiled linseed oil or tung oil? Cold-Pressed or name brands? Hopefully this sheds some light on what seems to be a topic of mass confusion or just a widely unknown topic.
#M1 #Garand #Mauser #Milsurp #Stock #Refinishing
I just got done cleaning the stock on my wife's 1945 M1 (her grandfather was part of D-Day, so she wanted a rifle like he carried) with LA's Totally Awesome cleaner and a small, stiff bristle brush, and waited for it to dry well, and then used this EXACT flaxseed oil on the stock. Holy cow does it look fantastic!! I only cleaned a number of decades of gun oil, skin oil, and whatever grime mixed in on the stock from it. I did not strip it. The wood looks fantastic, and has a "vintage" look to it, as is what it is. It just appears less grungy and looks more "proper." Thank you for the info on the fatty acids in this oil and what it does for the wood. I just put the third coat on it an hour ago and we will see what it looks like tomorrow. It is not absorbing the oil super fast, so the stock is not as dry as many others I've heard about. I am expecting to be minding the finish for the next month, applying more as the gun "requests" it. I also have a 96/11 Schmidt-Rubin, made in 1900, that I am going to be giving the same treatment. I thought these guns looked fantastic with all the grime, but being able to actually see the wood much better makes them look much better, without losing the vintage and period look.
That's great to hear! I always end up having to buy a new bottle before a use it on a new project. It seems to have a higher concentration than of Omega acids than when these were done back in the old days which has me wondering what the long term look will be like. I use this on M1's and Mauser 98k's alike although the Mausers with laminated stocks are already partially red from the Glues. They always turn out fantastic! Call back when you do the Schmidt-Rubin on how it goes.
@@Kpoole35 - I will. Hopefully I will be able to get to the 96/11 this weekend as well. I am very excited to see both of these guns cleaned and oiled.
I just put the barrel with the 2 forward wood pieces on it back in the stock for a comparison. The top pieces don't get the handling, and the skin oil, and whatever else might be on a soldier's hands, that the main stock gets, so they are not as grimy. But there is a difference in their appearance, of course, so it will be nice to see all the pieces evened out and looking alike. Either of these guns would beautiful on a wall, but if someone broke in while we were gone they would likely be the first things to go, so they will stay in the safe until range day.
I would love to see an updated video of how it looks now! I really want to see how much of the red it has gotten before I try this!
@@TylerBrown12345 you can find one in my shorts section. It’s pretty glossy and super dark now. The redness takes years to happen unfortunately but little by little it is turning.
Thanks for the info. I'm not a fan of your dark tint. The linseed oil does my stocks very good. I like the lighter , wood grain look. Most m1 coming out of a crate brand new the stocks were lighter.
Thats the beauty of wood, different species of wood give a different result. The M1's that had lighter stocks were generally Birch wood and that was a later production date. M1's that were darker were the WW2 era with Walnut and Linseed finish and the color would darken with their age.
Do you use steel wool or anything before/in between coats? Hoping they ship my expert grade in a bit, got my paperworld delivered a few days ago.
No with Linseed/Flaxseed oil steel wool is just not necessary or at least I've never seen a difference in finishing. I only use steel wool on Tung oil or other oil finishing.
Did you take the rifle apart? And what did you use to apply it with?
Completely disassembled first four coats and I hand rubbed it. 5th-12th were applied with microfiber.
@@Kpoole35 hand rubbed as in with your hands ?
@@Joe-oo3xv Use your fingers to get the thinnest coats possible. Thick coats will take a long ass time to dry. Also Tung oil on the inside to add moisture resistance.
Where do you place the stock to dry? I heard some hang it, not sure how they hang it. Also, I am worried the stock will combust as it cures because of the fact linseed oil can combust. Is that possible?
Honestly, thinking your stock will combust is pretty ridiculous. The rags you get the oil on certainly can. I just stood the stock up on a support beam in the garage until it was dry to the touch and not tacky or sticky.
@Kpoole35 Hell yeah, thanks, man. Lol. I know it sounded ridiculous, I always am just thinking of worst-case scenarios cause it usually happens to me lmfao. Do you think leaving it to dry laying it straight up on some wood blocks is ok?
@@codycigar6542 as long as nothing comes into contact with the oil while it’s wet should be fine.
Did you think the first two coats with mineral spirits? Recommended?
No mineral spirits with Linseed oil. That's just hindering results. Just add the thinnest layers possible.
I used pure flaxseed on mine. Did many coats over months and years. Every once in a while I take a picture of it on the same table with the same lighting to see if any noticeable change in color has happened. Unfortunately I don’t think it has. Sits in a safe all the time in the dark but I have always heard exposure to sunlight will oxidize the oil/acids to give that red color. I will say the ring oil videos I’ve seen on UA-cam seem to come out very well with a slight red hue on day one. If I had another stock I would definitely try that next
It takes a very long time for the red to start showing, the red comes from the linolenic acids in the flaxseed oil. My rifle also sits in the Dark quite a bit and I live in Oregon so sunlight is rare but it’s starting to show some red.
@@Kpoole35 yes linseed has a huge amount of those acids. I looked up how to oxidize them faster thinking that might give the red color and one thing I remember seeing was soy flour and another I saw was heat, but more heat than it could normally get. 140 degrees for 9-12 hours looks to redden the acid but you’d need a way to temp control it for that long. I’d love to heat some oil and experiment with the look on wood.
@@PastaLaVista. the problem with heat and linseed oil is the it becomes runny again which is why the US switched to Tung oil.
@@Kpoole35 right I was just thinking of doing it before applying. So you could see the color in the bottle then just apply it
Did you use any stain on this stock to get the darker color?
No. I read somewhere that keeping it in low light can make the product turn pretty dark over a 6 month time span so I believe that’s what happened here. It was naked when I applied the oil.
I used a stripper, dried it, stained it, cured it, 7 coats tru oil. Looks Amazing
How the rifle looking now???? Update.
Seems to have stopped darkening but it’s getting that polymerized texture that most rifles have. I might let it sit in the sun during the summer to see if that affects anything.
pretty sure neither side used BLO during wwII
BLO back then was a different process than what we know it as today. Back then it was tubs of heated oil “boiled” rather than the vacuum boiled and refined products at Lowe’s and Home Depot.
Raw linseed oil is what they used then
@@cantsneedgaming4591 they actually used Cold-Pressed Linseed oil that was heated in tubs.
apply once a day for a week, then once a week for a month, then once a month for a year, then once a year going forward
Once a day for 1 week then once a month for 4 months is really all that's necessary depending on your climate. Otherwise it won't dry or cure for months. Or if you get the gun hot the oil will just become runny again. I did an update video to show the latter.
@@Kpoole35 my suggestion is a completely standard and historic approach in united kingdom. Its a much older saying than I am in years