3 Chainsaw Sharpening Myths
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- Опубліковано 10 бер 2014
- When learning how to sharpen a chainsaw these 3 myths are often followed. I save you some time and get you a sharper chain on your saw if you follow these chainsaw sharpening tips.
Chainsaw and Wood Splitting website: sawsandsplitters.com/ - Навчання та стиль
www.amazon.com/shop/ctscaper
What are the advantages of a skip tooth verses a full chisel??
For most of your life, you've been trying to master sharpening a chainsaw? That's what I call dedication.
We all need a hobby. :-)
I agree with everything you said. Never thought about “weak vs strong” side but it certainly does make sense so I will pay attention to tooth length next time I use my saw. The only thing I would add, and this goes along with what you said about picking up the front of your file guide: according to YT “femalelumberjack” who is a Swedish professional sawyer when you set the file into the tooth, lift up on the tooth a bit (it should rock the tooth back slightly) and then take your filing stroke. Since I started doing that my sharpening is ten times better at getting a very sharp tooth. Great video. Thank you very much.
хахах это та баба которая на рекламе штиль зарабатываети больше чем на основной работе? Вы жертва рекламы.
One professional tree cutter told me that unequal length cutters have no effect on how the chain cuts, and others have said that unequal cutter length will definitely affect how the chain cuts. Not sure what to believe, but the professional probably uses his chainsaw nearly every day, and sees the results of his hand sharpening techniques immediately, so I would be more likely to believe what he said. He said he also files at a slight upward angle (from the inside to the outside of a cutter), rather than hold the file horizontally across the chain, as many chain sharpening instructions would say to do.
Once you get proficient at hand filing (I worked as a logger for a number of years), you will use roughly the same number of strokes on each side. If you need to take a different number of strokes on each side to remove the same amount of metal, that is an indication that you have not yet learned proper filing technique. I try to clamp my saw in a vise to sharpen it if possible. Then you can file one side of the chain, move to the other side of the saw and sharpen the other. I use my strong (right) hand to hold the file handle and my weak had to hold the file tip. I never use a file guide. I use the Stihl angle check tool to check angles, but I file by hand. And it helps to rotate the file away from the tooth which helps keep the file from riding up the tooth and losing the angle on the tooth top cutting surface. If you are in the woods and have no vise handy, cut a couple inches into a stump and use that as a vise.
Great tips LTV! Thank you.
Totally agree.
And people can now buy a trunk/stump vise , a handy gadget .
@@jimbanda True, but one more gadget to carry around. A shallow cut into a stump is always available with nothing to buy or carry.
In your opinion if you hit something let's say a piece of metal one side of the chain is smaller the tooth than the other side of the chain tooth do you believe that will cause problems or no is it okay if one side tooth is bigger than the other side tooth if that makes sense thank you
I worked in a saw shop for over 10 years, and owned a shop for another 20 years, afrer growing up on a farm
where we cut wood for every purpose, fence posts, firewood, construction boards, etc. Wood itself is abrasive.
You can actually use wood to sharpen steel ! One has to study wood to know how to cut it properly and easily.
But, back to sharpening steel to cut anything; even steel itself. - Just a sharp edge is not enough. Clearance,
and proper clearance for the job is of greater importance. If you don't have enough of the right clearance behind
the cutting edge, you will do nothing but rub your cutting tool duller, and burn it to a hardness you won't be able
to even file.
Different wood, like different anything, requires varied methods and tools to cut efficiently and effectively!
Don't just fumble along; study on it and save yourself frustration. A hardwood from South American rainforests
near past volcanic action made beautiful and strong furniture, but was impossible to cut, until they employed
carbide tipped tools (saw chains included). -Just an example!
Top Vid .. Ive never figured out exactly how to use a guide before..Thanks Mate
15 years cutting trees for a living and i just found out on this video too.
Wow...from peg board to chainsaws. I’m glad I subscribed. Thank you for your time and videos!
Thx much the tip about lifting the file and putting the guide on top of the cutting tooth solved my under cutting issue. I didn't know in fact that was an issue with hand sharpening so I thank you for educating me sir
Always put mark on chain to see where you started never drag the file backwards on the chain.
Acually you can drag back as long as there is no pressure on the tooth look up Buckin on yt
I appreciated how you explained your points! Please make video of you sharpening chainsaw blades!
Hold the phone First of all, he just did make a video of himself sharpening a chain. And secondly, THERE ARE NO BLADES ON A CHAINSAW!!! It is a CHAIN!
Exactly right! I have one tooth always longer than the other! I now always do more strokes on the longer side to even them up! Plus, keep my raker’s cleaned up. Thanks buddy, you are the only person who has pointed this out to me.
Cheers from Down Under
Great vid.
100% agree about same amount of metal. I see axes completely unbalanced from same number of strokes.
Best part; store file in a straw. Thanks for the great tips.
Sharpening with every tank of gas is the best tip you can give anyone. Its easy and smart
I like the logic on sharpening for maintenance with a saw, similar to a good knife, you don't wait until it is dull and useless.
I owned a tree service for 44 years and used various sized chain saws every day. I sharpened them freehand with the proper file when I could notice them getting dull. Sometimes this happened several times a day, sometimes only once every day or so. Cutting dry wood dulls the saw sooner as does cutting more dense woods such as locust. I owned a professional sharpener with a larger wheel that could be set to different angles, but used this only when the teeth were severely damaged by cutting into nails or rocks imbedded in the wood. If you sharpen saws several thousands of times by hand, you get good at it without using fancy guides. My file holders supported the file at both ends, but had no angle markers on them.
Great info Pat! I've gone to free-hand filing now and like you say it's not as hard as it seems with practice. Most of the wood I cut has been dragged along the ground and is covered in dirt so I sharpen frequently. I admit when cutting fresh wood I can go longer without sharpening but I'm usually cutting something that fell on the ground, was drug on the ground and thrown in the back of a truck, dumped on the ground, rolled a few times and then cut.
Thanx! Loved the video. I have now great success with this method 😊
Nice video. I'll have to do the straw trick now with my file for sure. :) I bought a timberline sharpener last year and that works pretty well for the bigger saws. The smaller 940 I still have to sharpen by hand. I observe the chain and how its cutting. If I feel sluggish response I sharpen it, but not every tank of gas. Only when it feels dull in its use. But these are very good tips and I'll take em into consideration next time I use my saw. Thanks again!
You can sharpen files with sulfuric acid as well. The straw trick is good for average Joe.Pros keep em in a leather pouch on our hips .
don boy does a really good job. Once you cut wood regularly you can hand sharpen a chain quickly and easily.
Thanks for the tips i have a battery model 200c and you done well.
I always file freehand with every fuel-up, and that works the best for me. I like to actually see the cutters as I go, so I can do the best job making them sharp, at the proper angle, and consistent to each other. I also mark the start link and go around twice-once for each angle.
I've filed literally 1000's of feet of chain one suggestion I would have for you is lean directly over top of the saw when filing an dsee if your angles stay stay good, the angle is not as critical as the length the advice you have given is very good
That's a great tip! Thanks for sharing.
lengh?
Nice vid. Good solid instruction for the beginner and some pointers for all. I personally freehand my loops(no guide) but I've done thousands. It's all about comfort of the process and you convey that in your video. Well done!
*****
I use a pair of really sharp glasses. Without glasses I don't get the angles and height right.
Stihl chains have lines marked on the tooth. But again, your putting too much into the angles, and not doing the rakes.
Not really sure how I do it and keep things in line with each other. Suppose maybe they ARE out of whack and I'm just accustomed to it gradually getting to that point? Considering it takes only about the time that I spend smoking a cig to do my chain- and the fact that when I'm cutting all day, depending WHAT I'm cutting dictates the frequency of the filing- Ficus trimming is least maint. being the wood is very soft(as long as the oiler is a flowing or the sap can cause issues). I can sharpen every 4-5 tankfuls or more. Cassuarina(She-oak/AussiePine) is just BRUTAL. I almost prefer a slightly dull chain(if I'm days at it or more, I change(decrease) angle altogether ) cuz the stuff is just SO hard- I've broken several new 'cheapo' chains over the years just due to them 'grabbing' in a spot on the limb and sticking and POP-CLANK... a-ring-ding-ding..ding...lol. Palm trimming is the most variable(and the filthiest- for me and my saw), depending upon the actual palm species, condition of the 'boots' of the tree, seed pod/fruit load in the tree at the time the work's done and probably the biggest variable is me... how fast I feel like hoggin' thru it- in the A.M., I'm ready to rip- but after a late lunch and 40-60 trees later, it's gotta be the 'to finish a job' for me to even get back up there after about 5-6hrs of swinging the saw already. In that period I probably tend to the edge of the loop 3-5 times minimum. Every few times after I do filing , the starter cover and chain/clutch covers come off and the entire saw gets a thorough clean out. Palm crud packed in cooling fins is one of the fastest ways to COOK your baby- I've seen a few brand new saws fry on day 1 of their 'service'. Inexperienced cutters or 'real tree men'(you know...from 'up north'- where there are 'real trees!' Lol) like to blame the person that mixed the fuel or cry 'faulty crankseals' or loose carb, etc. Best advice overall IMO, more often will be less time overall in any occasion. If I had to spend 20min. sharpening my chain- I'd cool off too much and never go back up!
Many thanks for taking the time to make the video. You are well-spoken and the info was presented in a clear, logical sequence that is easy to follow. I prefer the free-hand method and your info makes perfect sense. I especially like the fact that you don't pitch the need for special, fancy tools and you don't preach warnings about what happens if a person doesn't do things perfectly. Well done and thank you, my friend.
great video. i've been too intimidated to try sharpening my saw up till now. your video gives me some confidence to give it a try.
It takes time to get it right but every time you file you'll learn a little more. Please wear thick leather gloves while filing.
With 20 years falling experience behind me I can tell you that learning to file really well takes time. It's all about muscle memory and a lot of time on the saw. First up - throw away that file guide. They are good for fck all. They don't allow you to get down into the tooth and file a good hook into it. Also you can't just tell someone to file one particular way and that's it - every time I file I put subtle pressures on the file depending on; What the cutter looks like, how the chain has been cutting, what type of wood I'm cutting and the task that I'm doing at the time. If I'm out falling radiata I keep my drags quite high and put more angle on my cutters, it makes it ultra sharp but very smooth. If I'm falling eucalypt I flatten off the angle on my cutters and bring my drags down a bit - slower cutting, but longer between sharpens. On the skid, or doing firewood I'll bring my drags down lower and put a bit more angle on the cutters, makes the saw more vicious but handles a bit of dirt and still cuts fast. No two loggers I have met sharpen exactly the same...everyone develops their own particular angles and preferences. I run a 3/8 chain but use a .404 file as it allows me to get a better hook on my cutters and that suits my filing style.
Thank you!! This should be the end of this discussion.
This dude knows his stuff
Radiata and eucalypt!!??!! What the hell is that stuff? You must live in some upside down place or something.
I didn't read any of the other comments. you got it...
Buda-filer!
I got rid of the file guide after my first week of coppicing, its hassle, also like a few other people have said, swap sides
Most excellent video, very good information, quick and to the point, now I’m really glad I ordered the file guide like you have, thank you sir!
I'm very happy to have seen this video; it confirms many things I've worked out over the years. I cut Australian hardwoods and they are very tough on chains, so constant sharpening is essential. I agree - every tank of fuel followed by a quick touch-up. I was wondering; do you have any videos on maintaining rakers properly? I use a Stihl guide but I find it inadequate.
Great tips. And I also see things on UA-cam that make me wonder if people have lost their minds. Not only does your tips apply to chain saws, but anything that cuts. I will hit my lawnmower blade a few strokes just to get that edge back. Same with the hedge trimmer and branch trimmer. It only takes a few minutes and makes the job so much easier. My neighbor sharpens his blade once a season! But back to chain saws, I have three chains that I keep fully sharpened and when I fill the tank I swap the chains. Then all three go on the bench. I made a custom jig for my Dremel tool. I do all the left facing teeth, then swap it and do all the right side. It's one bolt to loosen, swap the chains, tighten and tension. I can do it so quick that it's faster than manually hitting each tooth while on the saw, but I can do what you suggest as well. And I may look like a fool, but I have the leather chaps, leather sleeves, helmet with the ear muffs and visor and my steel toe boots. It is hot, cumbersome and a pain in the ass, but the alternative is not acceptable. I have seen so many wicked things happen to lesser prepared people that it is second nature. Thanks for the video!
+Täking Thë High Roäd I have had a chain cut in my professional pruning work. I commend you. It is WORTH the derrier pain to be protected.
If you can guarantee the angle at which you grind your chain teeth with a Dremel, more power to you. That is a lot like Grandberg's 12 volt chain grinder. Do you have a guide?
every saw I have has two stud/nuts to remove to replace a chain... what saw do you have that only has one?
Thanks for the video. The chainsaw is one of my favorite power tools, I use my Stihl often. I also am a firm believer of sharpening at each gas fill up. I have been told by many that sharpening that much is a waste of time. What can you say to someone who thinks they know it all?? My reward? Clean cuts and less wear & tear on my Stihl.
Yeah , after a tank of gas , clamp the saw down touch up the cutting teeth and have a cold drink & relax. Less likely to have a bad accident if you're not tired & hydrated. I watch the size of my chips , if they start getting small and more dust like , time for a good sharpening.
I thought I only had these issues and myths 1 and 2 are so true for me. I'm a weekend warrior and my brother w/ side tree jobs. I sharpen at a minimum before going out no matter how well it was making chips last use. I also totally have the problem of a weak versus strong side sharpening on the bar. I have a chain vise for when the chain is off that helps even out since powerhead is never in the way -- grips the drive links better to get a very accurate hand file. I always look at how much metal is left and adjust strokes accordingly. I use a Husky roller guide so I don't really have myth #3 as the roller setup makes the file always engage the tooth at the right depth and get rid of free file induced hook or similar. Makes me feel much better that I identified at least 2 of your myths on my own. Thanks for the video.
I agree with the maintenance sharpening. I would like to add that I would never try to free hand with file only unless you have no choice . Always use the file guide, for the amount of metal you are removing with a hand file, just do the same amount of strokes on both sides. you will never wear the teeth down like a grinder does. We also have a tendency to over think things. Nice even strokes and the same amount on each side each time every time is best practice. thank you for the video.
As others have mentioned, I too sharpen one side teeth, then go to other side and sharpen. Gloves on one hand, file in the other. I agree with the video about the importance of the metal removed over the number of strokes. There is a feel using the file with both hands that lets you know the angle, but this is an individual choice and the guide is fine for those who prefer it. I roll the file a certain direction as I file the teeth, which seems to help also.
I agree 100% when you mentioned that its a different amount of strokes for each tooth!! Wish I had someone who understood that when I sharpened a chainsaw. I've heard it many times..." why don't you just hit it three times" well because when I cut the rock or nail or whatever dulled it all the teeth didn't hit it exactly the same! Brilliant!
Start with the worst one and count strokes. Inconsistent pressure on each side would be the only thing giving you different size teeth this way
I really liked the video. Using my chainsaw mill often now. Will be needing more sharpening.
Good job, learned a lot. Very informative. Thank you.
Agree, sharpen when you put it in storage also. That way it’s ready when need it.
I clamp my saw in a bench vise. I file every other tooth, then turn the saw around in the vise and file the alternating teeth. This way it feels pretty much the same when filing all the teeth. I don't use a file guide.
So you stay near the video.
Ditto. It only takes a few seconds to flip the saw around and I using the same muscle memory. Works for me because I’m not a professional and time is not of the essence - more about safety and consistency.
Marvin Werner could say it better
I do the same. 40 plus years of doing it and it's simply the best for me because when you do all the teeth on one side, you're done when you come back around to shiny filed metal. Then do the other side. Your muscle memory kicks right back in by the second tooth.
What do you do when you are in the field, and the vice isn't accessible?
I appreciate your getting straight to the point. My bit of experience and logic agrees with your statements.
I will try your advices. Thank you.
By back cutting and pulling the file towards the cutting edge you are rolling the cut chip over the cutting edge. This greatly reduces the sharpness of the cutting edge.
File from the cutting edge towards the relief. You will notice the difference.
I often wondered about that (coming from engineering). I know little about chainsaws, and am trying to get up so speed as I bought a small used McCulloch and getting it a new bar and chain. I would naturally think the way you do it is better. Are you a pro using a chainsaw?
Ok, I'll try it, but I thought the burr would be worn away in the first few seconds of cutting anyway.
folks try and train yerself to just use the file no guides ,no nothing file tooth til its sharp it doest matter if one tooth is a bit shorter or longer that's what raker gauges or for. I like that this fella say he not a expert sharpener, honest, to many guys getting into stuff they don't no about and screwin' people up .keep up the honesty LDU
you bet pal
I've watched your vids, your the best, thanks so much for teaching me, I can finally sharpen a chain, even after getting it in rocks and nails etc, thank you so much buckin Billy ray! oh I got a pro mac 55 can't part with it tho!!
Hey Buckin I love your videos!
Right on. I use a guide as well. With experience you can feel it right away when your chain starts slowing down. If you cut dirty wood it has to be sharpened much more often,.
nice video, I would really like to see you do one on how to perform general mint. of your saw like how often you clean inside the sprocket cover, etc. Not so much on stuff done back at the shop. Thx
I've been running chainsaws and sharpening my own chains for at least 25 years. I learned from my Dad. You can wear gloves but if you're good you don't necessarily need to. I have done a lot of production cutting in the woods and if I sharpened my chain every tank it would have slowed me way down. If you're good you shouldn't need to touch it up even that often. I couldn't stand using a guide especially since I learned without it. I really like to use the same number of Strokes unless one tooth is dulled worse. I will take more Strokes on that tooth but then take less off it on the next sharpening to try to even it out. I also count Strokes for taking the rakers down with a flat file. Getting the correct angle and hook on the teeth is just something you learn and push yourself to get the habit right. Never Back Drag.
Great video, very well presented. I would like to add that I treat all my drill bits with the same amount of care and attention. Don't wait for the bit to struggle cutting. Not only are you shortening the life of the bit, you are producing and inferior hole and more chance of it running off the intended line of axis. Learn how to sharpen your bits the way they should be done, and simply 'touch' them up often. You will notice the results.
Great video, thanks.
What are you, a drill sergeant?
The straw is such a great idea. Great job perfect hook
Great video.... thanks for the when you gas keep the edge and straw storage tips
Glad you got something out of it.
Ok totally agreeing with everything you are say a few extra pointer to just take it a little further
1/ I no you talking about the chain but for me it starts with the bar
make sure this is rotated at least every day pre end of end when preparing saw for next day of work. Run a sharp edge through the grove of the bar. check that the tip is freely moving some times a good clean and a bit of bar oil on helps keep it in cheek. the reason I have suggested this is to help the chain move freely which keep the chain from burning edges.
2/ When sharping saws use a staple base so the saw does not move around. so you can get a good edge.
3/End of day sharping is a great practise so if you need it urgently to move fall trees it set to go avoids frustration and dangerous practises.
4/Use a chainsaw sharping grinder machine regularly to bring chain back to guide I use mine at least every second time I use saw and at end of season.
5/spare chains are advantage and keep a good old chain for when you are cutting in places that the chain may hit something you may not want it to.
6/ Avoid over heating chain and burning edges
7/check depth lungs on saw these need to be taken down with a flat file often. Have seen saw with these at nearly zero. But don't recommend this practise.
Lastly most towns and farming commutes have chainsaw classes I recommend attending these to touch up on best practises
+brendon mcavoy
Cleaning the bar groove and greasing the bar tip, if it has a roller bearing tip, plus blowing out the chips around the clutch, is also regular maintenance.
The right way is having a sharp chain at the end of the sharpening process.
Fairly solid advice with a couple caveats. You shouldn't need to sharpen every tank unless you are hitting the ground a lot or there is an issue with your chain. If I am cutting for a full day I normally do a touch up at lunch and one at the end of the day unless I can tell the chain is getting very dull otherwise. In addition to the round file get a depth gauge filing kit with the flat file and guide. Check those every few sharpening's. If you happen to take more metal off one side than the other, get a few teeth out of whack, or the saw starts cutting crooked etc take your chain to someone with an electric chain sharpener (not the little dremel type an actual purpose built saw sharpener with angle settings and a chain vice) and get it professionally sharpened. I happen to own a nice sharpener and I will put my chains on it ever few days-week of combined cutting just to true everything up.
You forgot to mention as your chain's cutting teeth get older and about 30 percent has been sharpened away, the tilt of the cutting teeth causes the chain teeth to limit your cutting depth. At some point you need to run a flat file over the chain teeth (the teeth between each cutting edge) to bring them down a bit so your cutting teeth get a good bite again. Otherwise, those chain teeth and your cutting teeth get so close to the same depth your saw doesn't cut well. No one told me this. I used a chainsaw for 20 years and thought I was just bad at sharpening....until someone told me to give those teeth a few strokes with a small flat file. What a difference. I pulled out all my old chains, filed down those teeth, and got a lot more use out of them, and they cut like new again.
When you refer to teeth, do you mean rakes ?
Gathering firewood is my main source of money so I hand sharpen regularly. I have never used a guide but tend to dig down into the lower section by the time the chain is dead. A mistake I see my father make often is lifting his file at the end of his stroke which I believe cuts into the edge he just created. One suggestion I would make is rather than sharpening from your weak side just rotate the saw. I sharpen right handed and suck left handed so I just flip my saw around.
*****
turning the saw does change the side your teeth are on.. so one way your in a natural (inward) grip the other your not natural.. (outward grip)
Would it not make more sense to move to the other side of the saw instead of adjusting your number of strokes? That way youre using a consistant action no matter which edge youre facing
When you are reaching across the bar, remember which is your strong hand because the pressure you exert is different. And are you left or right handed.....? Consistency takes a lot of practice, experience and close visual inspection.
Thank you for the video, it was very helpful.
Thanks! It really makes a difference keeping a chain sharp. My saw is a bit underpowered, and I know the chain is sharp when it lugs down and really works.
A couple hints:
One thing I do as I sharpen is to turn the file in the guide every so often, to equalize wear on the file.
Another thing I do is put the saw on the workbench (stump, tailgate, whatever) with the blade pointed at my chest. But I don't really have a strong/weak hand, so that might just work for me.
I also put a drop of nail polish on a tooth when I start sharpening, so I know where I started. Easier to see than the master link.
Even the worst powerheads cut reasonably well with a well-sharpened chain.
Chain shot is a broken chain under load caused by excessive hook over filing into the side links and of course excessive raker.I find with the little Carlton plate all these are properly taken care of needing only to be used once or twice in a chains life for you,others andI.I use a 30 in super chisel/skip on a ported 61 Husky.I love that saw.The plate will fit in your wallet.Thanks for the timely reply.
@Tree Man The need to be really careful on plunge and upper tip cutting can't be any more dangerous if you are not being on the ball at all times.
Yeah, pretty much agree, but after a day cutting I change chains and put the used chain in the bench sharpener for an even up grind. Only needs a touch, Hell of a lot easier than doing it with a file. I'm not greedy with the bench sharpener, only needs a touch.
The wood I usually cut is dirty old (mostly) dry hardwood and it ain't called Ironbark for nothin', so sharpening at refill time is necessary and even comes down to a chain change. I'd love the chance to cut clean new wood.... have only had a chance to cut softwood once in 40 years....
I've been using a chainsaw since 1971 and to tell you the truth, I've never really taken any notice. Back then, used mcculloch mainly, then late 80's moved to a 2 cylinder Echo, still using it, fine saw, and also a 14" Stihl. On the job, after each oil fill (2 fuel fills) the chain gets a file touch up to feel, abt 3 - 4 strokes, check by feel and move on to the next. Maybe in the beginning I did, but memory very fuzzy now, lol. Definitely these days, I don't look too much at all, there's always something going on elsewhere and "familiarity breeds contempt" I guess. But I usually take 3 chains & 2 files with me for a day's cut, but usually only do a single change. We'd aimed to cut, between 2 of us, about 15 ton (true weight) per day (firewood, 14" length), that's cut, loaded, transported, unloaded and mostly split, day break to dusk. I'm too old for that speed now, struggling 2 ton on my own now and can't work daylong any more :(
Depth gauge setting has always been done manually, I don't trust the bench grinder, lol.
Using the bench sharpener, I gauge all the cutter lengths and sharpen to the shortest, a very fine cut taken and a chain will last through a season into the next. Amazing! When I used to get the local store to do the evenup, I'd do 2 chains per season as they didn't have time to do as I do, they pick an arbitrary length and cut/grind to that, nominally a third of the tooth.....
The Stihl (14") is an interesting saw, still using the 3/8 LP 043 chain due to the bar, but when the bar wears out (LONG way to go 5 chains so far and still looks like a spanker) I'll change to a 050 3/8 rapid. The LP chain makes me so lazy, lol.
All the best mate.
Good video. You might try sharpening from behind the saw sometime. I free-sharpen and have found this the best way for me to keep my teeth even. It works quite well for me. Good fortune.
thank you for making this video. i found it to be highly educational.
Couple comments. I'd be inclined to clamp the bar and then sharpen nearer the tip. It may hold the chain more uniformly, with less chance of wobble. Second thing is from old gunsmith I used to work with. Old school exercise was to give learner a small lump of iron. The task was to make a one inch cube block, polished flats. Hand tools only. The lesson (and why it applies here) is to train your hands to file flat and consistently. Try it. Take a piece of metal and flat file one side, flat abrasive paper/cloth to finish. Most folks wont notice that they rocker the file at the beginning or end of the stroke. So even if you polish it later, you will see wavy reflections at the ends. It's just trying to get you to notice the wobbles in your stroke that can mess up your sharpening. Teach your muscles the memory that lasts.
great video :) sharpening after every refill seems a bit extreme, guess it depends on the wood your cutting and if your using it on the ground ( damn those rocks and dirt :P )
I would like to see your video on doing the whole chain you explain very well
Excellent vid, thanks for posting
I must
have sharpened my chain five times with no better cut, finally I filed down the rakers just a few strokes and WALA! it cuts like a possesed beaver
The infamous aha moment! Keep up the great work. It takes time to learn.
going to try that
bucked logs in a sample yard a sawmill for 7 years , first thing we did was grind rackers off, and start getting a good under cut to get an edge like filet knife. we used file guides and just ran on cutting tooth , but you do need a lot of power for this type of sharpening.
Very nice video, well done and very informative and great suggestions. I never could figure why my teeth are always longer on one side, very frustrating! Good to know I am not the only one who experienced this problem.
I’ve had trouble getting the hang of this and messed up a bunch of chains so what I’ve been doing is you get a electric chainsaw sharpener and sharpen a bunch of chainsaw chains when you fill up take the bar off clean the groove on the bar flip it over and put on a sharp chain use a stiff brush and clean off all of the sawdust inside if you’re not using a husky or a echo you should clean the air filter also. It doesn’t take that long it’s faster than trying to touch up the chain out in the woods and it saves a lot of aggravation when you get back home run all of your chains through your sharpener it only takes a couple minutes on each chain set it up go through one side then turn the grinder and do the other side. You can get a saw sharpener from harbor freight for about $30 I also bought an extra sharpener disk which I haven’t needed I have sharpened hundreds of chains every year for myself and others and in the last 10 years I still haven’t worn out the grinding disk if you are doing a lot of cutting buy a roll of chain from Baileys and make up your own chains other wise buy 3 or 4 to fit your saw the round files don’t hold up that long and at $3-7 a peace you’ll spend a lot more on files than the saw sharpener for sharpening about 4 chains plus you can sharpen all of your friends chains if you take them to the saw shops they’ll charge you $5 -20 each and in just a few minutes you can take all of the dings chips and straighten up all the teeth 🦷 on your chain you can get a guide and a flat file to trim down the rakers but you will only have to do that about once every 10 sharpening’s. I really don’t understand The macho thang about trying to sharpen a saw with a file by sight there are several different angles that must all be correct to get a good cut and if you missed just one you’re chain will get bad really quick and can become really dangerous faster than you would think. And if that’s the way you want to be my suggestion is playing with your files then put up your saw and go have a beer and bragging that you sharpen it just like the old timers did I’ve been around loggers for years and I’ve only met a couple that could actually sharpen a chain properly very many times without messing it up but they all sound good the way they tell it 🤩
I have been running a chainsaw for 25 years cutting shake and shingle blocks and falling timber here in BC. It is more important that you keep opposing pairs of teeth the same but no need for all teeth to match. If I 'rock out' a couple of teeth badly when I sharpen them they will be quite a bit shorter then the others, by shortening only the opposing teeth I save a lot of chain and filing time and still cut fast and straight. As for filing guides I've never used one for the round file but always use a guide for filing down the rackers as proper depth of cut is important. How many guys have a sharp chain that doesn't cut because their rackers are so high the teeth aren't touching wood ? Conversly too low and they bite too hard and dog down or stop the chain. Happy Bucking.
Great tip, thanks. Question, why would a brand new chain and bar on 55 Rancher go dull after about 7-8 12" oak trunk cuts? Oiler appears to be working.... Factory Husky or Oregon chain, bought at Lowes (higher anti-kick rackers for "homeowners"?) I've sharpened it, but continues to fade quickly. I'm thinking rackers are too tall, they seem on same level (height) as cutting tooth...
Thoughts?
Richard Marshall Rackers have to be lower then the tooth for the tooth to cut, Every chain size has its own depth of cut which should be on the box it came in or ask your saw dealer for it. Buy a racker gauge , less then ten bucks, and buy a new chain without the anti-kickback plates. If you look at the chain you have you'll notice that those plates are so high as to make the rackers useless and are headed for the garbage bin while still having plenty of tooth left as it wont cut anymore. As for your initial problem unless you have the worlds hardest oak you should have gotten farther then ten inchs with a new chain so I suspect you found a rock or hard grit, those damage any chain. Hope this is usefull for you.
do you sharpen your chain abit steeper then the witness mark angle?
Good tip right there Danny... opposing teeth!
If the wood is hard you may need to change the angle to make it more durable.
In soft woods it is common to have a deeper gullet, more hook and steeper angle, but that would dull very quickly in harder stuff, and if you hit a rock, oh man!
I've seen chains dull quickly when someone files them too hard, and a burr forms on the working edge and gullet. The burr gets broken off pretty quickly and damages the cutting edges so they are dull.
Slide something along the tooth opposite to the direction of cutting, if it catches on the edges there is a burr sticking up.
If that is the case, don't file so hard, especially the last couple strokes, you should be just barely touching the chain on the last stroke, and if you have no guide, rolling the file towards the working edge.
Also, check the trees for sand and rock, if there is barren ground around them rain can splash sand on the stump a long ways up.
When I sharpen I do not use a guide and I actually apply pressure into the tooth and UP towards the chisel tip, rotating the file away from the tooth as I push. I want to see the file close the gap to ensure that the flat cutting edge is as sharp as possible. This requires some elbow grease but I have found using this method I can sharpen my chain to near factory sharpness.
+prothius a little twist works wonders
if you perfect your skills you can sharpen your saw chain to cut faster than a factory chain
Why would you do that? - The top is where the cutting edge is. Leave the cutting edge round and nice and dull.and cut down in the bottom of the gullet where no cutting is done. (Hope you know I'm kidding) I'd love to see this guy grind a drill bit, though. ("Strong" side yurass)
prothiu
stops ya rocking the cradle helps keep the file square to the bar the bloke who taught me was chief trainer for mcculloch aust and a pro firewood cutter he was taught a few tricks by their service manager.
Great video. Thank you
I agree, I've been sharpening chains since a kid & own/operate a stump grinding buisness for 17yrs & I've never used a guide from the beginning. Self taught is the best way & you can only get better at it. No matter what your doing. When your saw spits shoe laces or long curls your sharp.! Hook that baby & steepen the angle & ya got a real sharp blade. I can take someone's chain they've thrown out bkuz they thought was done & put an edge on it & cut some stumps..its awesome I love the life.!!! Much Love & Respect !!!
Jr.
Spitting noodles!!!
The file guide is also very important for sharpening at the proper depth. I always file with both hands on the file guide while facing the bar which is held by a vise. If you want to keep your chain for a long time, I would not sharpen as often as he recommends. The secret is cutting only clean wood. I keep a very sharp chain and run a chain for a long time because I try to never cut dirty wood. This is 25 plus years of forestry and tree care speaking. Keeping a clean chain is much easier doing tree service when you are cutting wood off the ground most of the time. The big stump saw which drops the tree and cuts up logs that have landed on the ground always needs sharpened more often. Still, never cut into the ground, and chop off dirt from a log with an axe at the point where you must cut through dirty wood.
I also had to sharpen the saw my employees used much more often than my own, because I was much more careful to never cut dirty wood.
You can lead a horse to water buy you can't make him drink. It's a pain sharpening someone else's saw because they do it differently than you and for me they usually let it go way too long before sharpening.
i use to cut trees professionally and i never met anyone who sharpened a saw every time they fueled up,unless they were a green horn roto tilling with the saw.When your falling trees you are going through a lot of fuel,and i only sharpened my saw if it really needed it ,and if your sharpening a saw with a 28 to 36 inch bar every time you fill it what a joke and a waste of your teeth.When guys are climbing,topping and limbing with the small 18 inch bar off the ground,those saws need sharpening even less,no dirt or rocks,unless you hit a nail or something.It's all about keeping your saw in the wood and not the ground.Maybe this advice would be ok for a homeowner who takes his saw out of the garage one Saturday every 6 months ,but not for someone who uses his saw regularly.This guy didn't mention keeping his depth gauge ( rakers) down a little since he is filing his saw so much. If you are cutting dead trees your saw also will dull much quicker or if your trees get a lot of silt and decayed matter.And if i am going to be cutting brush or low to the ground with a steep slope for some time i will throw on an older chain that i if i rock it at least it's not good chain.
richard hammer , haha I have learned everything you said the hard way, I just figured out it's not good to cut dirt or dirty wood, that fuckes up a blade really fast. I am just getting into chain sawing alot and am learning.
@DB Stevens ,yep you are right haha, I can't imagine sharpening a chain every time I filled up the gas tank. He must be digging ditches with his saw.
Maybe he is laying cable in the ground with it Richard...he can't be cutting wood with it that's for sure. Throw the file guide away! Now you wouldn't happen to be from bearcreek would you?
Well said and I also have many years at it.. Dirt kills blades... I am all done buying picker loads that has been dragged out...Not as bad in the winter but terrible the other 3 seasons.
Thank you, been having problems sharpening my chain and this video really helped. Damian.
the the most useful bit of knowledge bestowed upon me in my 12 years working in the brush as a riggin slinger/hooktender/operator is never never under any circumstances do you drag your file backwards. draging a file backwards ruins your file, keep your file sharp and your saw will follow. a old timer taught me if you have 1 hour to cut down a tree dedicate 45 mins to sharpening your ax before you make a single cut, have fun n be safe, never attempt something your abilities aren't capable of or pushes your comfort zone beyond your true abilities, without guidance from a professional, I recently lost my good friend, brother,co worker and a well trained pro logger to a falling tree. it happens to the best of us and Jeremy James Paapke was jUst that. !!!NEVER FORGOTTEN JERM!!!! I MISS YA BRO. caulk side down, tin side up!
It's good to install the bar upside down alternating every so many tanks of gas. That way the bar wears more evenly
+Craig Carlsen And you need to take the lip off the sides with a flat file when there is one.
+Craig Carlsen How about every second sharpening? That's in the same department. But you are on the RIGHT track.
Michael Dougfir Just depends on how fast the bar wears. You might get a whole season on one side. I just do mine every so often, usually at the end of the cutting season, then I'll tear it down and blow out the junk, clean the groove and flip the bar. If you feel a lip on it, just get out the file or a Dremel tool and clip it off. No problem.
+Michael Dougfir Every second sharpening is too often with the dirty wood we have here, but every one to two gallons seems to work.
Apparently you don't know. It's OK not to know. First, what are you being insulting for?
Second, the bar wears most on the side being used for cutting. There is a lot of pressure, wear and strain on that side. In addition, all bar and saw makers recognize the fact of flipping the bar now and then. The wear on the bar can be lessened by using both sides in rotation.
Also, there is a protocol for bar maintenance when the side most used needs work. It involves careful filing. There is even a tool made just for this.
Best file guide is a Carlton plate,Try it,they are amazing,never a bad angle or depth nor hook. I build log homes and just to rattle your cage 92% of my saw work id done with the saw upside down and backwards.Crazy eh. Very good home owners type info sir.
Dean Lorna
To bad their not making them anymore...
I have been able to hand file the chains that use a 5/32" file successfully, but with the larger chains that use a 3/16" file (such as my Stihl saw), I have had much difficulty achieving a satisfactorily sharp chain with hand filing (or using an electric saw sharpener). I have tried every sharpening technique I could think of, including using a bar mounted filing guide (jig), and an electric chain sharpener. I also filed the rakers a little for good measure, but the raker depth gauge did not indicate the rakers needed filing, as far as I could tell. No matter what, not much improvement in the chain's cutting performance. I don't know if the chain was still dull after sharpening, or if the poor performance was caused by some other problem (wrong filing angle, inconsistent filing on each cutter, etc.). I am beginning to think that the chainsaw chain factories use black magic to sharpen their chains, since the chains cut so well when new (lol). However, your video showed some filing techniques I have not used and will try. Maybe I will have some luck. Like you, I have concluded that some of the information in the "standard" instructions for hand filing a chain is not really correct. I would like to see the people that write these hand filing instructions actually hand sharpen a chain successfully, using their own instructions. Might be amusing, since I suspect they have probably never sharpened a chain, but only reprinted old, generic chain sharpening instructions! Thank you for the chainsaw chain sharpening video!
When you say “lift it up of the front tooth” do you normally rest othe guide on both the tooth and the raker and if yu’re having an issue just stay on the tooth and off the raker?thanks
Just to clarify...it is good to try and remove the same amount of metal from each cutter, but not necessary. As long as each depth gauge is set to the corresponding cutter, it doesn't matter.
+NotImpressed to a degree but the cutters get narrower when they are filed back and thus will remove less material in the cut - this will cause the cut to curve away from the wider cutters side. Similar to if a car brakes on one side and not the other.
Bingo!!
so.... the taller cutters work harder, get hotter, lose temper.... while the lower teeth do no work.
Got it.
Keeping the files in a straw is a great tip.
DieselTruckin
Yeah I mean, once they go in that tool box they freeze into place as does everything else and dirt ceases to exist
Just remember to remove the file before drinking out of the straw, I can't tell you how many times I've been to the emergency room to get a file removed from the roof of my mouth.
Thanks for posting this! Very helpful! I feel like I can tackle the job now!
I agree! Hand file with the guide; it won't feel as sharp but it will last much longer. Learn to file without a vise because you won't always have a vise when you need to file. Frequent filing is a big help in keeping the chain nice and sharp. A good presentation! Remember to file the rakers(using a raker guide and flat file) as the teeth wear down. Sharp teeth will still give you powder if your rakers are too high. Take your chain off now and then, clean the chain groove out and file the wire edge off the wear areas of your bar. I only grease the bar tip whenever I install a new chain, (some may disagree) but clean the chain groove and remove the wire edge from the bar every time I have reason to take the chain off. I've been getting my firewood 5 to 10 cords per year from stump to stove for over thirty years. I make a considerable effort to keep my wood clean and free of mud and grit. You will do much less sharpening as a result.
At work we started cutting trees under transmission lines (the big towers). In my experience, the bigger the trees you cut, the more garbage you're going to hit inside the tree. For example dirt, mud, or barbed wire. We got pretty good at free filing, for a long time I didn't even know they made file guides and electric chain grinders lol. I always file the drags the same amount of strokes on both sides and just kinda eyeball the teeth. But that takes a whole lot of trial and error, like, 5 days a week for two years worth of trial and error lol.
Get rid of the file guide because it is easier to see what you are doing. There are are marks on the top of the tooth that show you the angle.
I would love to see your video,really informative.
You mention some great points. A lot of cutter wear occurs from the wrong type of chain sometimes relative to the type of wood. One helpful tip would be to tell someone to buy a new chain before atrempting to sharpen their existing chain, so as to have a reference to how the cutter is supposed to look.
Now heres an issue im hoping you can help me with. I have a rsflk skip klassic tooth chain that ended up in the dirt where some leaves caused me to misjudge the clearance while bucking. If youre familiar with it, it has a drastically non-conformal cutter shape. Any ideas as to sharpening it? Thanks.
Every time you gas up is just ridiculous. If you are not cutting in mud or stumping or cutting trees that have been down and mud splashed you might consider doing a maintenance sharpening every 2 or 3 fills. Personally I can sometimes 4 or 5 days hard use before even needing to think about sharpening (still cutting at a 7 on scale of 1-10). and sometimes I have to sharpen a blade 3 or 4 times in 1 day if I am stumping or i hit rock or something.
Damn.... dude what are you cutting to go almost a week between sharpenings, Balsa wood? Seriously tho, are you using carbide tipped loops or what? I can't make it more than 3 or 4 tanks before I get impatient and wanna force things, but I primarily cut Causerina(Aussie Pine) and Quercus Virginiana(Swamp oak). I hate sharpening(but I am VERY good at it) cuz its time consuming for me!
I got into a pinch and the only thing i had on hand was a 14 in electric saw. The tree that fell was about 20 in dia. i used my file a little here and there and watched the ribbons coming off. I listened to the motor and kept the revs at almost the no load rpm.
Sliced up the whole tree in no time without a problem. A sharp tool is the best way to go.
Got to know what a sharp chain or tooth looks like to sharpen one with or without a guide.
That makes a lot of sense.
great demo! thanks
Very good video, yea its my biggest problem, I wait until I'm kicking lots of dust and maybe even a little longer before I get around to sharpening. I use a dremel tool but I should keep one of those handy file guides and files with me when cutting so I can sharpen it like he says with each fill up. Excellent advice, I'm going to take it.
why don't you just file every other tooth then stand on the other side of the saw and sharpen every other tooth. Wouldn't that give more consistent results? or turn the saw the opposite direction? Instead of pushing file for one angle and pulling for the other angle.
+nofaithjusthope This is simple, easier and correct.
+nofaithjusthope It happens nevertheless. You hold handle with different hand in each case.
+MrGoranPa What happens never the less? I always use my hands like this: right hand on file handle left hand other end of file to stabilize file so I'm not sue what you mean (different hand)?
I then sharpen every other tooth and then either turning saw around so bar is pointing in other direction or stand on opposite side of saw and sharpen every other tooth.
This way I think is more consistent than sharpening ALL teeth at the same time from the same position because you wind up putting more pressure and possibly different angle on the teeth because you push file for one direction and pull for the other as shown in this video.
I can't imagine how you do that. :)
+Michael Dougfir it's not
I think that you are trying to help people, but sharpening a chainsaw is not this complicated. If you sharpen the chain that often you are not being productive. Unless you hit something you should be able to cut two or three CORDS of fire wood before you file the chain again.
depends. on our land I usually file every third tank or so, maybe every other if cutting windfalls that are dug down in the earth. but then it's usually a stroke or two. it's definietly worth while, you work much faster with a sharp chain and it's also safer and when you've done it enough times, like me, it doesent take long.
Yea for real I cut 6 1/2 full cord before I had to sharpen my chain. Just saying and that is with bucking logs also
Joseph McCue I couldn't agree more, if I had to sharpen my saw at every tank fill I'd still be in the woods!
Joseph McCue i
Exactly. You know how long it takes to touch up a chain on a 36” bar?!? Unless I touch down in the dirt I’ll cut a few truck loads without even having to worry.
I like sharpening every tank as well, but I think it's more of knocking off the brineling of the chain. You can feel the extra resistance on the first few strokes, and that's all it takes, unless you hit rocks or any other hard material. It is also useful to use a caliper to measure the length of the link to make them all the same so the saw will cut straight.
Good tip about getting a fresh edge...had that problem before.
Ran chain saw for a living for 20 years, and most of the time when I filed my work was piling up. To file fast and accurate throw away the file guide and you need to learn to file with one hand because you will be applying a lot of pressure back towards the tooth and you will need the other hand to hold the bar and chain still. Always file the right side teeth from the left side of the saw, left side teeth from the right side if the saw
you have to file the drive links as well, with a flat file.
+drunkrudetat2d Why would you need to file a drive link? They're not involved in cutting, so they should typically wear evenly. Right?
he must mean the rakers
UpnorthHere
Yeah I think he meant drag and not drive links.
This is all very new to me bit finding it massively interesting!
Good info., just like my friend giving me advice, worth the view. Thx