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I’ve had this pedalset for a week and agree with what you’re saying. However, yesterday I went out and bought some aqua shoes (like you pointed out in your video), and it completely changed my experience. Because of the grippy sole I was able to press further up on the pedal and get better leverage, suddenly the pedal felt VERY good. Another thing I’m considering now is the flat metal pedalfaces. Since they are not curved, they would contribute to getting better grip at the top of the pedalface too (in addition to rubber soles probably gripping better on metal vs. Rubber). Regardless, after getting the aqua shoes I’m very happy that the elastomers are as stiff as they are, I would not swap to something softer if I had the opprtunity to. Just wanted to share my experience, thanks for the great video keep up the content mate!
If you can push your foot leverage over that stack of elastomers behind the pedal that does make a difference. Potentially, the height/angle placement of the pedals can alter how that leverage is applied and improve the situation.
not sure if you know or realize... but you can move the pedals plate up on the pedal and might change the geometry enough to help you out. I'm talking about the black plastic plate attached to pedal arm, you can move it up at least an inch (couple options available) and change how the force is applied.... maybe that will give you a better feel/ response you're looking for. just putting my DD and pedals with load cell together for first time and when changing over the pedal plates noticed the extra holes for adjustment. 👍
This. I raised the pedal plate to the highest setting and it felt so much better! Also, understand that these are basically entry level load cell pedals. This guy is talking like this pedal set is the top of the range and don't feel like real brake pedals... There are single pedals that cost more than this triple pedal set. This isn't the best of the best. This is budget. Top of the range pedals have sensors that can detect the brakes locking and feed that back to the pedal. But they cost like £200 for a single pedal! You get what you pay for.
A board bellow your heel should raise your foot and solve your problem with the brake pedal (you would reach that higher pressure point that suits you ideally). My dd pro bundle should be delivered next week, can't wait 😀
Hey mate good video. Just a note to keep an eye out for. The whole idea of load cell pedals is that your not relying on travel for measuring the input. Muscle memory is terrible at distance, but more suited to pressure cues. Stiffer pedals are more accurate for braking. You need to remember that because it is using pressure/force to detect input that a softer pedal, or, one that travels further actually dampens the input. Essentially taking away some of the advantages of a load cell. Now I agree that hard pedal is not everyone’s cup of tea, that is where utilising brake input gamma settings to tweak the curve and adjusting the sensitivity settings as you mentioned can balance out the softer pedal. Honestly, IMO I find most people get turned off hard pedals because they are not used to it. But once they adjust to the pedal they have more finer control and ultimately a better racing experience. All in all though great video 👍
I got the older csl loadcell not sure if its the same but I'm using a blue die spring 9x35mm instead of the White foam thats in the middle.. and it feels alot more like a real car. Best part is it only cost like 5 pounds
Thanks for the suggestion there, Marc. I will experiment with modding the brake stack at some point, and I'll give it a try with a die spring. Do you have the link to where you bought your spring?
I've got this for around a month now, the LC kit. First I had only the basic set, but bought LC to get more accurate braking - and after all, it was my very first LC, so there is nothing to compare to. For me it works quite well, but I'm using racing boot while driving. I'm still in the "learning curve" though. I don't have a rig, as I don't have space for that and my dog would come and kiss me every time I'm racing :-D I only have a wooden piece behind the pedals currently, to get them closer to me - as wall is too far away. I will mount them down to something later on, but I can drive with this setup without problems too. While braking hard, I need to be extra careful though 😀
I use the CSL elite pedals with load cell. I run 2 of the hardest elastomer and a piece of aluminium tube in the middle, I have less than 5mm of movement. I wanted it to be as stiff as possible
Today i installed them and at first i thought sth is broken. Movement of LC break is so minimal when you compare it to the T3PM or a real life car. However after few hours of testin i can imagine some people might like it. They provide precision although such a minimal movement. Will test a bit more and give them a chance
It's laughable that manufacturers still trying to replicate real-life break force for sims. They completely ignore the fact that sitting in your living room is not the same when you are racing a muscle car in real life. Your brain processes the two completely different, and the same amount of brake force that you apply under real conditions does not feel right in your sim no matter what. Setting does matter.
@@mitchio83 It's a combination of things. You visually see the target object that you want to stop in front of. You press on the brake and your body experiences a certain deceleration force. Your brain combines the two and comes up with the right brake pressure you have to apply. If you wonder why you cannot break accurately in a sim compared to real life, this is why. A whole lot of information is lost.
Is it not also laughable then that manufactures are trying to replicate the same feeing for the throttle? Or fuck it, why bother with FFB. They'll never replicate it so why try? Just vibrate the steering wheel and be done with it! lol. Sorry mate but your comment is so dumb on so many reasons! If you need to me explain why then you're even more stupid that I though you were!
@@SimRacingCorner I have the 3Draps linear elastomers coming on Monday. Will use one with two original elastomers to see how it feels. I will also try two linear elastomers and see how that feels too.
@@SimRacingCorner yeah the 3Draps elastomers are the way to go. Using two linear ones just gives more granular control over coming off the brake. Much easier to trail brake now. Will see how they last long term but for now it's a worthwhile upgrade. In saying that they are nearly £50 delivered bringing the pedal set to £250. If I was to start again knowing what I know now I would just get the V3's. For someone needing to build in stages though then at least one of these elastomers is an essential buy.
@@TheGingerOneNI Thanks for that, and that is good to hear it's improved the brake feel for you. Once I've completed my main pedal review, I'll set about looking at modding the brake, probably try the DIY route first, along the lines of my Thrustmaster T-LCM brake mod.
Hmm, ok... print, or cut some spacers, and put one under the throttle, one under the clutch, and one over the top of the break, and place them under the pedal plate. This will lift the plate, the throttle, and the clutch, but leave the break lower, and that will gain back some comfortable leverage
I agree completely with you. the movement of the pedal is so short and so stiff you barely noticed it is moving or doing anything. Pressing your foot against a wall feels exactly the same. I bought them and received them last weekend and I’m somewhat disappointed. I think I want to mod it. And here is the piece of advice I want from you. I want to have a more real feeling, like a bit of softness at the beginning of the travel, then more stiffness when the discs ar actually compressed and I would like a bottom stop at the end. I assume I can make it happened with some mods, but I would like to know which is the order of the springs to achieve something like that. Thank you, this is really good content.
Hey there... I do have a solution to this, here are a couple of follow-up videos. ua-cam.com/video/oCdUoOjtEfU/v-deo.html and ua-cam.com/video/LQfbcqIAiqM/v-deo.html
Mine should be delivered tomorrow. I plan to give it a couple weeks to get used to them but I dont think this will be an issue for me. I prefer minimal brake pedal travel and almost never use more than about 50% of maximum brake force or travel to prevent locking up, but appreciate the you making this video to call this out.
Intial impression is that the loadcell brake is very stiff, not much movement at all. I would also say that I am still getting used to it but the amount of travel is not as important with a loadcell, only the amount of pressure applied. Also, the amount of pressure applied can be configured in the software so its not that you have to press it all the way down hard to get 100% braking power.
@@LiST.- Timely you should ask. I had trouble with them initially and had to send them off to be repaired/replaced. I only got them back yesterday. Mounted them in my rig last night and on the 3rd lap I matched my PB. The loadcell brake doesn't have much travel at all but is easy to modulate. I invert mounted them and didn't change the spings from the old brake and the acclerator pedals so the gas is a little stiffer than I would like but otherwise no issues. Check back in a couple of weeks
Had the same stiffness issue from previous model the elites. I threw away that crap and returned the load cell kit I went with the V3s instead and it's great. Very customizable and that's what some of us need to find the right setup.
my load cell pedal fried my throttle pedal... it also has about 1/4 the travel compared to the one reviewed here. Still waiting on a response from fanatec 5 days later. apparently lots of people are having the same issue. Im now stuck with no pedals and no answer from fanatec.
5 місяців тому
how did it fried throttle? and can u fix it ? Fanatec's cutomer service is so bad, they even do not reply to emails most of the time
I use these on the floor against a wall. Have them set at 30%, anything more and they lift on the front end. Plan on getting a rig soon but I don't think I'll set them a whole lot higher, I rather like the little to no travel.
Good video. Very fair points, as I just got mine, and they're not comfortable for me. I'm going to hold on to them as I plan on modding them. Ordered the blue 65mm spring to try to give it that soft travel before the higher pressure cells.
i love the stiffness of these pedals. Its about weight not movement. I think as entry level load cells all the complaints with them are from people coming from non load cell break and are used to a lot of trave. set the sensitivity to like 30 or 40 percent and give it a week your muscle memory will adapt and you'll have much more braking control with these.
I've personally tested and reviewed several pedal sets over the years, so your 'all complaints' theory absolutely does not apply to me, or my broad experience testing pedal sets, of which you're welcome to view on my channel.
I thought I would go and check my pedals after watching your video. I wear karting boots for sim driving and with the tuning pedal plates from Fanatec I find I am pushing the load cell at the top of the pedal. Though my heel is closer to the pedal. 🤣
I just got this last week and was very disappointed with the lack of travel. It’s my first loadcell and was expecting more travel. It makes trail braking very hard to judge. It’s going to take some time to get use to for sure. I found that wearing sneakers/shoes helped a ton. I only have a few hours on them so far.
I plan to look at modding the brake to improve the travel and feel at some point, and bring that out in a video once I've finished my main review for these pedals. In the meantime, there's a thread on the Fanatec forum where people are sharing their mods that may help you. forum.fanatec.com/discussion/25021/csl-lc-stiffness-issue?
I am in the market for a sim rig and i am really wondering why there isn't a pedal system that simulates the tire slipping feeling? Why isn't there a force feedback system that can simulate that feeling when you break to hard and lock them up and start sliding, it is a very unique feeling in your foot. To me that would be very important. Do the top of the line motion sims even have this? If not, why isn't this a thing??
There's this simucube.com/simucube-activepedal/?v=fa868488740a Or you can mod pedals like this ua-cam.com/video/ANdLjTH-e8k/v-deo.htmlsi=vVaEIMWZ3Dp28HHD
I'm torn bettween these Fanatecs and TLCMs with modding by adding elastometer thing, the problem is that later down the road i will want to change wheel into the same ecosystem to use only 1 usb and also be able to play retro stuff that only detects/maps 1 controller.
I wonder if inverted the angle and position could be changed slightly enough to help compensate for what you’re experiencing? It occurs to me that the difference might overall be tangible.
Potentially that is a solution, or growing larger feet! The pedals here are angled and set to the height that I've run every pedal set on the rig, which is comfortable for me. So any comparison versus other pedals is always going to contend with this orientation. I think in a fully inverted regular car pedal style orientation, these would be fine.
It's this stuff... www.motedis.co.uk/shop/Slot-profile-accessories/Other-accesories-for-slot-profiles/Cover-profile-black-B-type-slot-8-1-meter-X::99999125.html
So many Sim Racers want that crazy hard pedal, but I drive a road car and that's what I want to emulate. It's more familiar to me. I have the V3 set and tried the performance kit and removed it almost immediately. But still. I think a lot of people will dig the stiff setup when they get used to it.
I thought this too. I used my Heusinkveld Sprints with very soft elastomers for months and I thought it was the best way to use them. But then I decided to install some harder elastomers as I was getting tired of the spongey feel and... wow. Braking is so much easier, especially trailbraking. I never realised how much more difficult the softer elastomers were making it.
@@elemenopee3458 even road cars the brake pedal shouldn't move a whole lot. Just enough to get the pads to the rotors, anything more than that it down to loss of pad material (age of the brakes) or air in the system. The reason you don't want it to move much is muscle memory, you learn exactly how much pressure you need to apply which is easier than trying to remember how far you need to press a pedal.
Got these pedals indeed, but they're so stiff. Just bought soen springs so i am waiting when they're arrived. Fir decent braking i really need to push hard, so it doesn't feel that comfortable
You gotta be shitting me. I removed the tlcm from the basket and added these ready for checkout and then I saw this in my recommendations. Talk about timing. Bless you Google for spying on my shopping. Someone up there loves me.
If the (pedal) pad flexes, how do you know if you're actually applying more brake pressure or if it's the pad that's flexing. Also, in the cars I've driven the pedal pads have almost no flex. Usually this is message from metal with a thin layer of rubber covering it. The rubber has at most 1mm flex I'de say.
@@SimRacingCorner Yes the pedal faces. If I understood you correctly, you were suggesting the faces should have been made from a softer material. But then if the pedal face flexes you're not actually increasing brake pressure even though it feels like that, right?
Late to the game but the v3 set was the same situation stiff and somewhat annoying. If you are a person with leg issues but still want to race then i think you are better off with another company. With that being said, time has passed and Moza basically copied this design BUT the basic load cell brake is not as stiff and it already comes with the kit (SR-P). It comes with a decently soft pedal that you can enjoy. They also made an adjustment kit for it... Kinda like the Fanatec V3 pedals adjustment kit in idea so you can make it more stiff if you want too. I actually tried the kit and i reverted back to the original springs because the pedal was becoming too stiff. i.e the out of the box version was just right for me. Kinda wasted 50$ but that is fine i can still use them later on. So if you are looking for a very good clone of these pedals then buy the sr-p pedals... you will save a slight amount of money and the brake pedals is already included... for Moza it is the clutch that they sell seperate AND you dont need to buy a damn adapter to connect it to your pc!!!!!
Hi Mate, thank you for the review. I have watched all videos of yours regarding these pedals. I already ordered it from Fanatec and its still on its way. I wonder if I can use it against the wall without mount it to a rig? I am playing only F1 games and I do not have a rig. I am sitting in a chair and I put my T3PA pedals against wall. Will it work?
I’ve had mine a few days mate.. Yes you can but you would need to adjust the setting so the BRF is low .. 20/30 percent. Mine are attached to the rig so I’m only guessing but you should be ok.
@@D1CE579 Hi mate, I just recieved my pedals. As you said I can only use it with maximum %30 BRF and it does not move more than 0.5cm... Is this normal? The travel is very short and I dont know if this is the optimal for racing...
@@farukterzioglu8863 I hate these pedals for the same reason absolutely no movement whatsoever. I bought these so I don’t have to mod them like I did g29 pedals, waste of money for me.
You just need to tilt the front of your pedal deck up so that the face of the pedals are more vertical. You should be depressing it away from yourself rather than pushing it down towards the floor, if that makes sense.
Can someone advise if i can buy these pedals and use them with a t300 base? Can i connect them via usb as standalone ?Would i encounter any issues? Thank you
I bought this as a complete pedal set, so I can't give an exact figure of what you'll pay. But UPS will bill you for the VAT/customs and a processing fee. Processing fee is about £11.
@@AdzzVR ups normal.. was only charged 27 Euros delivery fees from Fanatec .. had no extra import invoice fees like I did when I ordered my DD.. this was only for the loadcell pedal not the set
I have the base model for these, just a heads up to anyone interested, omp pedals have the same spacing. If you use use m4 bolts and nuts you can use that instead of the plastic faces
What are OMP pedals? Are the faces that can be purchased or something? I still have some old clubsport pedals colored pedal pad kits, I was thinking about buying these pedals and drilling the arms out to accept the clubsport pedal pads but if I can use something else without drilling that would be good to know.
Which particular OMP pedal faces you talking about? Curious myself, I feel the pedal faces are smidge too small for my feet, but get the job done though.
OMP pedals are a brand, the particular models I've tried of theirs that fit were the omp pedals (oa 1020) - flat with a long accelerator And the current ones I'm using omp pedals (oa 1000) - curved pedal faces I found these in the uk, but they're a pretty big brand so should be able to find them elsewhere
@@SimRacingCorner it looks like a nice stiff pedal. you might have acutally sold me on it. if you want a pedal thats easy to press with lots of travel you can get one pretty cheap
How much brake pedal travel do actual racing cars have? Genuine question since I have no idea. I know my normal road car has quite some travel of probably like 10cm.
@@SimRacingCorner was watching your foot work on your previous refactor video, do your feet get tiered? After using my inverted peddles as long as they are positioned correctly (fine tuned) less soar feet and more aggressive driving with precision
@@SimRacingCornertry inverting them you’ll never go back to that style , you’ll improve your coasting, thought a couple of m8’s how to invert their set and they just love it, their racing improved heaps , one was the g923 peddles and other one was the thrustmaster with the load cell, there should be an L mount available for your rig
![[REVIEW] 3DRAP Fanatec CSL Pedals Elastomer Brake MOD. Better feel, improved control! 🦶](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LQfbcqIAiqM/mqdefault.jpg)
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I’ve had this pedalset for a week and agree with what you’re saying. However, yesterday I went out and bought some aqua shoes (like you pointed out in your video), and it completely changed my experience. Because of the grippy sole I was able to press further up on the pedal and get better leverage, suddenly the pedal felt VERY good. Another thing I’m considering now is the flat metal pedalfaces. Since they are not curved, they would contribute to getting better grip at the top of the pedalface too (in addition to rubber soles probably gripping better on metal vs. Rubber).
Regardless, after getting the aqua shoes I’m very happy that the elastomers are as stiff as they are, I would not swap to something softer if I had the opprtunity to. Just wanted to share my experience, thanks for the great video keep up the content mate!
If you can push your foot leverage over that stack of elastomers behind the pedal that does make a difference. Potentially, the height/angle placement of the pedals can alter how that leverage is applied and improve the situation.
Look up "Riptide APS barrel bushings" and buy some 65A hardness ones. It'll soften the pedal slightly and make it more progressive.
@@OculusDrift Great suggestion, thanks.👍
not sure if you know or realize... but you can move the pedals plate up on the pedal and might change the geometry enough to help you out. I'm talking about the black plastic plate attached to pedal arm, you can move it up at least an inch (couple options available) and change how the force is applied.... maybe that will give you a better feel/ response you're looking for.
just putting my DD and pedals with load cell together for first time and when changing over the pedal plates noticed the extra holes for adjustment. 👍
This. I raised the pedal plate to the highest setting and it felt so much better!
Also, understand that these are basically entry level load cell pedals.
This guy is talking like this pedal set is the top of the range and don't feel like real brake pedals... There are single pedals that cost more than this triple pedal set. This isn't the best of the best. This is budget. Top of the range pedals have sensors that can detect the brakes locking and feed that back to the pedal. But they cost like £200 for a single pedal!
You get what you pay for.
A board bellow your heel should raise your foot and solve your problem with the brake pedal (you would reach that higher pressure point that suits you ideally). My dd pro bundle should be delivered next week, can't wait 😀
I set mine up that way and they feel fine. I cranked up the software resistance and so far working out pretty good.
Hey mate good video. Just a note to keep an eye out for.
The whole idea of load cell pedals is that your not relying on travel for measuring the input.
Muscle memory is terrible at distance, but more suited to pressure cues.
Stiffer pedals are more accurate for braking.
You need to remember that because it is using pressure/force to detect input that a softer pedal, or, one that travels further actually dampens the input. Essentially taking away some of the advantages of a load cell.
Now I agree that hard pedal is not everyone’s cup of tea, that is where utilising brake input gamma settings to tweak the curve and adjusting the sensitivity settings as you mentioned can balance out the softer pedal.
Honestly, IMO I find most people get turned off hard pedals because they are not used to it. But once they adjust to the pedal they have more finer control and ultimately a better racing experience.
All in all though great video 👍
I got the older csl loadcell not sure if its the same but I'm using a blue die spring 9x35mm instead of the White foam thats in the middle.. and it feels alot more like a real car. Best part is it only cost like 5 pounds
Thanks for the suggestion there, Marc. I will experiment with modding the brake stack at some point, and I'll give it a try with a die spring. Do you have the link to where you bought your spring?
@@SimRacingCorner I tried to link it twice but UA-cam is removing it I bought it from China just search die spring 9x35mm
@@marc.charpentier Thanks for trying Marc, okay I'll run a search on that. Cheers.
@@SimRacingCorner let me know if you can't find it I'll dm you then 👍
@@marc.charpentier can you dm it to me
I've got this for around a month now, the LC kit. First I had only the basic set, but bought LC to get more accurate braking - and after all, it was my very first LC, so there is nothing to compare to. For me it works quite well, but I'm using racing boot while driving. I'm still in the "learning curve" though.
I don't have a rig, as I don't have space for that and my dog would come and kiss me every time I'm racing :-D I only have a wooden piece behind the pedals currently, to get them closer to me - as wall is too far away. I will mount them down to something later on, but I can drive with this setup without problems too. While braking hard, I need to be extra careful though 😀
Bro you speak out of my Soul 🤣
so u can use this pedals without a rig?
I use the CSL elite pedals with load cell. I run 2 of the hardest elastomer and a piece of aluminium tube in the middle, I have less than 5mm of movement. I wanted it to be as stiff as possible
Today i installed them and at first i thought sth is broken. Movement of LC break is so minimal when you compare it to the T3PM or a real life car. However after few hours of testin i can imagine some people might like it. They provide precision although such a minimal movement. Will test a bit more and give them a chance
It's laughable that manufacturers still trying to replicate real-life break force for sims.
They completely ignore the fact that sitting in your living room is not the same when you are racing a muscle car in real life.
Your brain processes the two completely different, and the same amount of brake force that you apply under real conditions does not feel right in your sim no matter what. Setting does matter.
Maybe it's from the braking g forces in real life exponentially multiplying the potential braking force on your foot? Interesting to think about..
@@mitchio83 It's a combination of things. You visually see the target object that you want to stop in front of. You press on the brake and your body experiences a certain deceleration force. Your brain combines the two and comes up with the right brake pressure you have to apply. If you wonder why you cannot break accurately in a sim compared to real life, this is why. A whole lot of information is lost.
Is it not also laughable then that manufactures are trying to replicate the same feeing for the throttle? Or fuck it, why bother with FFB. They'll never replicate it so why try? Just vibrate the steering wheel and be done with it! lol.
Sorry mate but your comment is so dumb on so many reasons! If you need to me explain why then you're even more stupid that I though you were!
3Drap already has several replacement/modded elastomers for it.
That's good to know, thanks Dave.
@@SimRacingCorner I have the 3Draps linear elastomers coming on Monday. Will use one with two original elastomers to see how it feels. I will also try two linear elastomers and see how that feels too.
@@TheGingerOneNI Nice, please do drop another comment once you've had go with them, I am very interested in how they work out and your feedback.
@@SimRacingCorner yeah the 3Draps elastomers are the way to go. Using two linear ones just gives more granular control over coming off the brake. Much easier to trail brake now. Will see how they last long term but for now it's a worthwhile upgrade. In saying that they are nearly £50 delivered bringing the pedal set to £250. If I was to start again knowing what I know now I would just get the V3's. For someone needing to build in stages though then at least one of these elastomers is an essential buy.
@@TheGingerOneNI Thanks for that, and that is good to hear it's improved the brake feel for you. Once I've completed my main pedal review, I'll set about looking at modding the brake, probably try the DIY route first, along the lines of my Thrustmaster T-LCM brake mod.
Hmm, ok... print, or cut some spacers, and put one under the throttle, one under the clutch, and one over the top of the break, and place them under the pedal plate.
This will lift the plate, the throttle, and the clutch, but leave the break lower, and that will gain back some comfortable leverage
I agree completely with you. the movement of the pedal is so short and so stiff you barely noticed it is moving or doing anything. Pressing your foot against a wall feels exactly the same. I bought them and received them last weekend and I’m somewhat disappointed. I think I want to mod it. And here is the piece of advice I want from you.
I want to have a more real feeling, like a bit of softness at the beginning of the travel, then more stiffness when the discs ar actually compressed and I would like a bottom stop at the end. I assume I can make it happened with some mods, but I would like to know which is the order of the springs to achieve something like that. Thank you, this is really good content.
Hey there... I do have a solution to this, here are a couple of follow-up videos. ua-cam.com/video/oCdUoOjtEfU/v-deo.html and ua-cam.com/video/LQfbcqIAiqM/v-deo.html
Mine should be delivered tomorrow. I plan to give it a couple weeks to get used to them but I dont think this will be an issue for me. I prefer minimal brake pedal travel and almost never use more than about 50% of maximum brake force or travel to prevent locking up, but appreciate the you making this video to call this out.
How much is it?
@@hanovar9233 about $200.
Intial impression is that the loadcell brake is very stiff, not much movement at all. I would also say that I am still getting used to it but the amount of travel is not as important with a loadcell, only the amount of pressure applied. Also, the amount of pressure applied can be configured in the software so its not that you have to press it all the way down hard to get 100% braking power.
@@mikeb.9433 hey mate, just wanted to ask how your experience is up to now? Thank you!
@@LiST.- Timely you should ask. I had trouble with them initially and had to send them off to be repaired/replaced. I only got them back yesterday. Mounted them in my rig last night and on the 3rd lap I matched my PB. The loadcell brake doesn't have much travel at all but is easy to modulate. I invert mounted them and didn't change the spings from the old brake and the acclerator pedals so the gas is a little stiffer than I would like but otherwise no issues. Check back in a couple of weeks
Had the same stiffness issue from previous model the elites.
I threw away that crap and returned the load cell kit I went with the V3s instead and it's great.
Very customizable and that's what some of us need to find the right setup.
Been using mine for a week now. Set brake pressure to 55%. Muscle memory takes a while. But I'm happy with pedal.
Where do you set brake pressure? Is it in the particular game you play?
@@DoomiePookie either on wheel or on fanatec driver.
@@sebastianmeldau2618 im gunna play gt7, do you know if this can be done in this game?
@DoomiePookie yes,on your wheel or fanatec driver. Not on game itself.
my load cell pedal fried my throttle pedal... it also has about 1/4 the travel compared to the one reviewed here. Still waiting on a response from fanatec 5 days later. apparently lots of people are having the same issue. Im now stuck with no pedals and no answer from fanatec.
how did it fried throttle? and can u fix it ? Fanatec's cutomer service is so bad, they even do not reply to emails most of the time
I use these on the floor against a wall. Have them set at 30%, anything more and they lift on the front end. Plan on getting a rig soon but I don't think I'll set them a whole lot higher, I rather like the little to no travel.
Good video. Very fair points, as I just got mine, and they're not comfortable for me. I'm going to hold on to them as I plan on modding them. Ordered the blue 65mm spring to try to give it that soft travel before the higher pressure cells.
Thank you. I'll be looking into a few options to mod brake too, and I'll run video or two on that.
i love the stiffness of these pedals. Its about weight not movement. I think as entry level load cells all the complaints with them are from people coming from non load cell break and are used to a lot of trave. set the sensitivity to like 30 or 40 percent and give it a week your muscle memory will adapt and you'll have much more braking control with these.
I've personally tested and reviewed several pedal sets over the years, so your 'all complaints' theory absolutely does not apply to me, or my broad experience testing pedal sets, of which you're welcome to view on my channel.
For me personally I would have the pedals at a more upright angle. I don't know if this would help.
If u reverse the pedals with a bracket u push that part where u like the travel
you can do that?
@@butterr8037 yes Google for a universal inverted bracket.
I thought I would go and check my pedals after watching your video. I wear karting boots for sim driving and with the tuning pedal plates from Fanatec I find I am pushing the load cell at the top of the pedal. Though my heel is closer to the pedal. 🤣
I just got this last week and was very disappointed with the lack of travel. It’s my first loadcell and was expecting more travel. It makes trail braking very hard to judge. It’s going to take some time to get use to for sure. I found that wearing sneakers/shoes helped a ton. I only have a few hours on them so far.
I plan to look at modding the brake to improve the travel and feel at some point, and bring that out in a video once I've finished my main review for these pedals. In the meantime, there's a thread on the Fanatec forum where people are sharing their mods that may help you. forum.fanatec.com/discussion/25021/csl-lc-stiffness-issue?
That’s how loadcells work. It’s not about travel it’s about pressure
@@cured_bacon647 You are correct, technically. But pedal travel and resistance is still very important for the sensation and feel of realism.
I am in the market for a sim rig and i am really wondering why there isn't a pedal system that simulates the tire slipping feeling? Why isn't there a force feedback system that can simulate that feeling when you break to hard and lock them up and start sliding, it is a very unique feeling in your foot. To me that would be very important. Do the top of the line motion sims even have this? If not, why isn't this a thing??
There's this simucube.com/simucube-activepedal/?v=fa868488740a Or you can mod pedals like this ua-cam.com/video/ANdLjTH-e8k/v-deo.htmlsi=vVaEIMWZ3Dp28HHD
personally, less travel is better for consistency.
agreed
@Erik Gonzalez yeah the average person can not achieve 40% brake pressure on an F1 brake pedal, they’re so stiff
@Erik Gonzalez exactly, it's mad, f1 is the main game I'm gonna use it for so I want a stiff brake
@@CJ-uh8bk I found trail braking (which is pretty important in the F1 game) to be pretty hard with a short-travel pedal.
@@WillemstadPlug trail braking shouldn't be harder due to the lack of travel, because you can do it based on the pressure you apply
I'm torn bettween these Fanatecs and TLCMs with modding by adding elastometer thing, the problem is that later down the road i will want to change wheel into the same ecosystem to use only 1 usb and also be able to play retro stuff that only detects/maps 1 controller.
TLCM's have too much flex where metal pedal meets plastic base. The flex is there no matter what you do. Don't be torn ..
Based on this video it sure seems like the pedals would work better if they were mounted inverted. Anyone else seeing this?
I wonder if inverted the angle and position could be changed slightly enough to help compensate for what you’re experiencing? It occurs to me that the difference might overall be tangible.
Potentially that is a solution, or growing larger feet! The pedals here are angled and set to the height that I've run every pedal set on the rig, which is comfortable for me. So any comparison versus other pedals is always going to contend with this orientation. I think in a fully inverted regular car pedal style orientation, these would be fine.
Hi … may I ask what did you use to cover the Chanel’s on your rig, the black strips abd where may I purchase them from
It's this stuff... www.motedis.co.uk/shop/Slot-profile-accessories/Other-accesories-for-slot-profiles/Cover-profile-black-B-type-slot-8-1-meter-X::99999125.html
I thought I was the only one that hated this. I much prefer travel with a loadcell. Its much easier for me to get comfortable with.
So many Sim Racers want that crazy hard pedal, but I drive a road car and that's what I want to emulate. It's more familiar to me. I have the V3 set and tried the performance kit and removed it almost immediately. But still. I think a lot of people will dig the stiff setup when they get used to it.
I thought this too. I used my Heusinkveld Sprints with very soft elastomers for months and I thought it was the best way to use them.
But then I decided to install some harder elastomers as I was getting tired of the spongey feel and... wow. Braking is so much easier, especially trailbraking. I never realised how much more difficult the softer elastomers were making it.
@@elemenopee3458 even road cars the brake pedal shouldn't move a whole lot. Just enough to get the pads to the rotors, anything more than that it down to loss of pad material (age of the brakes) or air in the system. The reason you don't want it to move much is muscle memory, you learn exactly how much pressure you need to apply which is easier than trying to remember how far you need to press a pedal.
Need to invert them that’s what I’m going to do, all my stuff coming Friday I got the dd pro coming with all other stuff
Got these pedals indeed, but they're so stiff.
Just bought soen springs so i am waiting when they're arrived.
Fir decent braking i really need to push hard, so it doesn't feel that comfortable
Springs will help
3drap do an amazing feeling upgrade for your brake,
Thanks for the suggestion, I've seen that online. Maybe something I'll try out.
You gotta be shitting me. I removed the tlcm from the basket and added these ready for checkout and then I saw this in my recommendations. Talk about timing. Bless you Google for spying on my shopping. Someone up there loves me.
I’m looking to buy this set for my 12 yo son will they be too stiff?
You can mod the brake spring, and replace it. So there are solutions. ua-cam.com/video/oCdUoOjtEfU/v-deo.html
This or the TLCM?
It's not a straightforward binary answer. Too much to write in comment, but I do plan to run a detailed comparison video in the future.
If the (pedal) pad flexes, how do you know if you're actually applying more brake pressure or if it's the pad that's flexing. Also, in the cars I've driven the pedal pads have almost no flex. Usually this is message from metal with a thin layer of rubber covering it. The rubber has at most 1mm flex I'de say.
Are you talking about the pedal faces? There hard plastic, not rubber.
@@SimRacingCorner Yes the pedal faces. If I understood you correctly, you were suggesting the faces should have been made from a softer material. But then if the pedal face flexes you're not actually increasing brake pressure even though it feels like that, right?
I'm talking about the stuff behind the pedal that flexes.
@@SimRacingCorner ok, nevermind then :)
Late to the game but the v3 set was the same situation stiff and somewhat annoying. If you are a person with leg issues but still want to race then i think you are better off with another company.
With that being said, time has passed and Moza basically copied this design BUT the basic load cell brake is not as stiff and it already comes with the kit (SR-P). It comes with a decently soft pedal that you can enjoy. They also made an adjustment kit for it... Kinda like the Fanatec V3 pedals adjustment kit in idea so you can make it more stiff if you want too. I actually tried the kit and i reverted back to the original springs because the pedal was becoming too stiff. i.e the out of the box version was just right for me. Kinda wasted 50$ but that is fine i can still use them later on. So if you are looking for a very good clone of these pedals then buy the sr-p pedals... you will save a slight amount of money and the brake pedals is already included... for Moza it is the clutch that they sell seperate AND you dont need to buy a damn adapter to connect it to your pc!!!!!
Hi Mate, thank you for the review. I have watched all videos of yours regarding these pedals. I already ordered it from Fanatec and its still on its way.
I wonder if I can use it against the wall without mount it to a rig? I am playing only F1 games and I do not have a rig. I am sitting in a chair and I put my T3PA pedals against wall. Will it work?
I’ve had mine a few days mate.. Yes you can but you would need to adjust the setting so the BRF is low .. 20/30 percent. Mine are attached to the rig so I’m only guessing but you should be ok.
@@D1CE579 Hi mate, thanks for the reply. do you think its worth buying?
@@D1CE579 Hi mate, I just recieved my pedals. As you said I can only use it with maximum %30 BRF and it does not move more than 0.5cm... Is this normal? The travel is very short and I dont know if this is the optimal for racing...
@@farukterzioglu8863 I hate these pedals for the same reason absolutely no movement whatsoever. I bought these so I don’t have to mod them like I did g29 pedals, waste of money for me.
@@JMcK910 LOAD CELL BRAKES ARE MEANT TO BE STIFF...IT'S BASED ON 'LOAD/PRESSURE'..NOT TRAVEL DISTANCE.
You just need to tilt the front of your pedal deck up so that the face of the pedals are more vertical. You should be depressing it away from yourself rather than pushing it down towards the floor, if that makes sense.
Wish I'd seen this before I bought these pedals. I do not like them, cannot get a feel at all, looking to replace nearly immediately.
Maybe this will help ua-cam.com/video/oCdUoOjtEfU/v-deo.html
Can someone advise if i can buy these pedals and use them with a t300 base? Can i connect them via usb as standalone ?Would i encounter any issues? Thank you
Yes, they have USB, so can be used standalone on PC. And no, you won't encounter problems.
@@SimRacingCorner Thank you very much for your quick response
I wanted to order the loadcell kit, I live in UK, how much will the extra fees be?
I bought this as a complete pedal set, so I can't give an exact figure of what you'll pay. But UPS will bill you for the VAT/customs and a processing fee. Processing fee is about £11.
I got mine yesterday I’m in the UK .. no import charges on just the loadcell.. unless I was lucky.
@@D1CE579 lucky you , did you use ups normal or express?
@@AdzzVR ups normal.. was only charged 27 Euros delivery fees from Fanatec .. had no extra import invoice fees like I did when I ordered my DD.. this was only for the loadcell pedal not the set
@@D1CE579 okay that’s perfect then, I’ve just ordered the Loadcell kit.
What is your shoe size? It looks like the larger the foot, the less pressure needed.
I have the base model for these, just a heads up to anyone interested, omp pedals have the same spacing.
If you use use m4 bolts and nuts you can use that instead of the plastic faces
What are OMP pedals? Are the faces that can be purchased or something? I still have some old clubsport pedals colored pedal pad kits, I was thinking about buying these pedals and drilling the arms out to accept the clubsport pedal pads but if I can use something else without drilling that would be good to know.
Which particular OMP pedal faces you talking about? Curious myself, I feel the pedal faces are smidge too small for my feet, but get the job done though.
OMP pedals are a brand, the particular models I've tried of theirs that fit were the omp pedals (oa 1020) - flat with a long accelerator
And the current ones I'm using omp pedals (oa 1000) - curved pedal faces
I found these in the uk, but they're a pretty big brand so should be able to find them elsewhere
@@coryeyre thanks for the reply, I will for sure have a look, thank you.
this looks great to me. why would you want so much travel on a bake pedal.
It's not about looks, it's about 'FEEL'.
@@SimRacingCorner it looks like a nice stiff pedal. you might have acutally sold me on it. if you want a pedal thats easy to press with lots of travel you can get one pretty cheap
@@AC-wl7ve You clearly didn't listen to what I said in the video
How much brake pedal travel do actual racing cars have? Genuine question since I have no idea. I know my normal road car has quite some travel of probably like 10cm.
I don't know exactly, I expect it varies, but travel is shorter than a road car pedal.
Invert them and they will feel good
So did you invert your set of these pedals?
@@SimRacingCorner yes I invert all my peddles, but I use the v3 inverted to, had to re engineer them
@@SimRacingCorner was watching your foot work on your previous refactor video, do your feet get tiered? After using my inverted peddles as long as they are positioned correctly (fine tuned) less soar feet and more aggressive driving with precision
@@telmoprl1963 No, my feet are not tired. I might occasionally take a foot away to scratch an itchy leg.
@@SimRacingCornertry inverting them you’ll never go back to that style , you’ll improve your coasting, thought a couple of m8’s how to invert their set and they just love it, their racing improved heaps , one was the g923 peddles and other one was the thrustmaster with the load cell, there should be an L mount available for your rig