+1 on the AA and STS hulls, but also the Remington Gun Club is in their category of excellence. The key is that the compression-formed hulls with quality plastic are the best for reloading.
@sixosixo They are for shooting games. Just shells that are made for longer shots. Instead of using 1/8 oz. of shot, I use 1 1/4 oz. or 1 3/8 oz. of shot. Also instead of using #7.5 shot, I use # 6 or #5 shot.
This would be referring to loads that are more powerful than your standard load. For trap, in a 12 gauge, your standard shot weight is 1 1/8oz with velocities of anywhere between 1145-1250fps. And a "back-up" load would be used for long shots in games and for long, off-concrete shots. These would consist of 1 1/4 or 1 3/8 oz of shot weight and velocities of 1200+ fps
By far the remingtons sts and win aa hulls load the best and interchangably but the aa do have a slightly taller base wad so depending on ur powder & wad combination some adjustment may have to be made depending on which you are loading.... I will set my wad pressure so that with the AA hulls it will just barely move on the scale for my Mec loaders and with a Rem sts hull it will still seat the wad all the way down
I have been reloading for quite a while, and use a ton of different hulls. one of the ones i am liking more and more is the remington game loads and gun clubs. they reload nicely and put a really nice crimp. I have one question, how light of a powder charge are you using to be able to get 20 reloads? I am lucky to see 8 to 10 on good ones.
What I'm referring to is the use of a magnum powder load (Alliant Blue Dot, Hodgdon's Longshot, etc.) or a large shot amount for a 2 3/4" shell (1 1/4 oz. through 1 1/2 oz.) The taller brass will provide support for the pressure generated from the shot that a low-brass shell may not be able to support as effectively
Total falsehood. The low brass hulls like AA and STS ( unibody construction) are as strong or stronger than the high brass conterparts. The high brass shells are two part construction with paper base wads that are pressed in and only good for one or two reloads at most. We need to stop the old adages that were only valud for the old style paper hulls to make the distinction between target and field shot shells.
@@denisdegamon8224 You are correct. The breech is what contains the pressure of the shell firing, not the brass case head. Just look at the old Activ hulls that had only an over-molded steel primer pocket, with the rest of the hull, including the rim, of a single unified piece of plastic. As it turns out, decades after Active folded its tent in North America (I've been told that they're being made in South America, where they've very much loved), the hulls are considered some of the best for reloading.
Nice video, thanks. I usually have the best luck with anything without a steel base as far as functionality in my shootgun. Have you found any of these to be better than others?
@tsafa1 The amount of powder needs to follow the standards of reloading manuals. It doesn't matter whether the powder line is above or below the brass.
@magic1926 You can use different primers/wads of different makes. I use Claybuster Windjammers, which are a Winchester Windjammer replacement, in Remington STS hulls with Fiocchi 616 primers. Never had a problem.
@miiigoreng Sometimes I will go ahead and load it. If its completely smashed from opening to brass you might as well pitch it out. But if only the open end/half is smashed, try to straighten it out with your fingers then load it.
@Rughead1000 Yes I have soon enough realized the AA hull has its issues with the separate basewad. I personally know a fellow shooter that had their barrel swelled due to the basewad shooting halfway down the barrel, then getting stuck. They then loaded another shell and shot again. Instant barrel bulge.
im thinking about getting a loader soon and i like this one and i dont really know much about loaders so i was wondering will this loader load buckshot, and will it load 3" or 3 1/2" or just 2 3/4" shotshells.
What load data do you use on the winchester universal hulls? I've got a billion of these things, and can't find load data. I've heard to use AA hull data, but want to make sure.
@ericou812 I agree with you, WAA-HS lifespan is about 3-5 reloads, after that the hull becomes too fragile. But Maybe it's just me but I'm very picky with my hulls, if I see any minuscule defect in them I toss them.
Do shotgun shells need to be cleaned in a tumbler like rifle/pistol brass? iIf aso, for about how long, and which is the preferred medium, corncob or crushed walnut shell?
@Cassatucky I found my best luck in hulls using Winchester AA Light/Heavy Target and Super Handicaps. The plastic can withstand up to 10 reloads without splitting, the brass is easily resizeable, and they contain a durable, cupped base wad which allows for better seating of the wad and final crimping of the shell. I have also used both Federal Gold Medal and Top Gun hulls and have found that they work but contain a felt base wad and are made of less durable plastic.
In modern plastic hulls, the only purpose served by high brass is cosmetic and marketing. The brass has no effect whatsoever with the ability of the hull to handle stiffer loads or higher level of powder charge. The high brass thing is an artifact from paper hulls, in which the high brass did indeed serve the purpose of preventing the powder from burning a hole through the paper. Plastic hulls ended of that.
@@tsafa You're very welcome. The breech is what contains the pressures of firing, not the brass portion of the hull; and modern plastic hulls easily withstand the heat from the powder burning, To give you an example of taking this to the extreme, there were shot shells in the 1970s through the 1990s made by a company in West Virginia called Active with no brass whatsoever. The Activ shells only had an overmolded skeletal steel support in the hull head that served only to provide a rigid primer pocket, with the entire body of the hull, including the rim, consisting of a unified piece of high quality plastic. I shot a few hundred of those, and they turned out to be excellent shells, and lots of reloaders prize the empty hulls decades after the company was sold to a South American company and relocated there, especially for waterfowl hunting because the Activ hulls have an unusually high internal capacity. Here's what the look like today from the South American company currently making them (the ones I shot in the 1980s were red) - www.hampelsgunco.com/uploads/1574457563610.jpeg Ballistic Products even has a short explanation about the Activ hulls with a cutaway diagram here - www.ballisticproducts.com/bpi/articleindex/articles/activ_info1/activhulls.htm I do miss the Activ and original Winchester AA hulls, and I kick myself for not having trashed the hundreds of them that I fired back in the 1980s.
@Derail07 I used to and they got stuck in my gun. Every time I shot the shell, the brass would swell up against the inside wall of my chamber, making it impossible to eject properly.
Yes 20 does seem a little over estimated there most people get about 10 loads out of once fired sts or AA hulls but it does depend on the powder .... a fast burning powder like red dot will burn up the casings much quicker than say a slow burning powder like Winchester super field
It is not recommended, The brass will clean up, but you may end up with media inside, and the plastic may get brittle faster. More problems can rise if you washed them, a drop of water can cause primer to powder detination issues and the drop may not be observable. Better to just reload, use a towel if you want to look clean to wipe down.
This guy knows nothing about loading. Certain machines "like" steel vs brass so I won't say anything about that, but I will mention the base wads. This guy mentions nothing about how all the steel-headed shells have separate base wads that could potentially come off after the ignition of the primer. This then could shoot into the barrel and thus creating an obstruction. Not only does he forget to mention that , but he also fails to mention the fact that some hulls are tapered and some are straight, thus affecting the velocity given that you don't change wads. This guys "20 reloads is a fat lie. I primarily shoot STS hulls, clean them all around the outside including the plastic and the brass, and can only get maybe 10 loads. Anything getting up to that number starts to lose pressure and then you lose velocity. Cheapskates are the reason why reloaders get a bad name. Consider selling your loader.
@@j.rob.5943 Exactly and I'm looking at my Remington Gun Club hulls right as we speak! Coming on youtube is like going to a bar...too many dumb azzes trying to sound smart and hoping no one exposes them
I agree with the hull selection you've described... and I've been loading for 30 years! Good video...
Another great video. I appreciate you making all of these videos!
+1 on the AA and STS hulls, but also the Remington Gun Club is in their category of excellence.
The key is that the compression-formed hulls with quality plastic are the best for reloading.
@sixosixo
They are for shooting games. Just shells that are made for longer shots. Instead of using 1/8 oz. of shot, I use 1 1/4 oz. or 1 3/8 oz. of shot. Also instead of using #7.5 shot, I use # 6 or #5 shot.
This would be referring to loads that are more powerful than your standard load. For trap, in a 12 gauge, your standard shot weight is 1 1/8oz with velocities of anywhere between 1145-1250fps. And a "back-up" load would be used for long shots in games and for long, off-concrete shots. These would consist of 1 1/4 or 1 3/8 oz of shot weight and velocities of 1200+ fps
@Rughead1000 I agree with your order. He said he could get 20 reloads on the Red AA, yeah right
Wish there was a video like this about mag high brass cases both 2 3/4" and 3".
By far the remingtons sts and win aa hulls load the best and interchangably but the aa do have a slightly taller base wad so depending on ur powder & wad combination some adjustment may have to be made depending on which you are loading.... I will set my wad pressure so that with the AA hulls it will just barely move on the scale for my Mec loaders and with a Rem sts hull it will still seat the wad all the way down
I have been reloading for quite a while, and use a ton of different hulls. one of the ones i am liking more and more is the remington game loads and gun clubs. they reload nicely and put a really nice crimp. I have one question, how light of a powder charge are you using to be able to get 20 reloads? I am lucky to see 8 to 10 on good ones.
What I'm referring to is the use of a magnum powder load (Alliant Blue Dot, Hodgdon's Longshot, etc.) or a large shot amount for a 2 3/4" shell (1 1/4 oz. through 1 1/2 oz.) The taller brass will provide support for the pressure generated from the shot that a low-brass shell may not be able to support as effectively
Total falsehood. The low brass hulls like AA and STS ( unibody construction) are as strong or stronger than the high brass conterparts. The high brass shells are two part construction with paper base wads that are pressed in and only good for one or two reloads at most.
We need to stop the old adages that were only valud for the old style paper hulls to make the distinction between target and field shot shells.
@@denisdegamon8224 You are correct.
The breech is what contains the pressure of the shell firing, not the brass case head.
Just look at the old Activ hulls that had only an over-molded steel primer pocket, with the rest of the hull, including the rim, of a single unified piece of plastic.
As it turns out, decades after Active folded its tent in North America (I've been told that they're being made in South America, where they've very much loved), the hulls are considered some of the best for reloading.
Nice video, thanks. I usually have the best luck with anything without a steel base as far as functionality in my shootgun. Have you found any of these to be better than others?
@tsafa1
The amount of powder needs to follow the standards of reloading manuals. It doesn't matter whether the powder line is above or below the brass.
@magic1926
You can use different primers/wads of different makes. I use Claybuster Windjammers, which are a Winchester Windjammer replacement, in Remington STS hulls with Fiocchi 616 primers. Never had a problem.
@miiigoreng
Sometimes I will go ahead and load it. If its completely smashed from opening to brass you might as well pitch it out. But if only the open end/half is smashed, try to straighten it out with your fingers then load it.
@Rughead1000
Yes I have soon enough realized the AA hull has its issues with the separate basewad. I personally know a fellow shooter that had their barrel swelled due to the basewad shooting halfway down the barrel, then getting stuck. They then loaded another shell and shot again. Instant barrel bulge.
im thinking about getting a loader soon and i like this one and i dont really know much about loaders so i was wondering will this loader load buckshot, and will it load 3" or 3 1/2" or just 2 3/4" shotshells.
What load data do you use on the winchester universal hulls? I've got a billion of these things, and can't find load data. I've heard to use AA hull data, but want to make sure.
@ericou812
I agree with you, WAA-HS lifespan is about 3-5 reloads, after that the hull becomes too fragile. But Maybe it's just me but I'm very picky with my hulls, if I see any minuscule defect in them I toss them.
Do shotgun shells need to be cleaned in a tumbler like rifle/pistol brass? iIf aso, for about how long, and which is the preferred medium, corncob or crushed walnut shell?
i have around a 1,000 empty shells can i just reload them all with the same data? they are all mixed range pickups or i shot them
@Cassatucky
I found my best luck in hulls using Winchester AA Light/Heavy Target and Super Handicaps. The plastic can withstand up to 10 reloads without splitting, the brass is easily resizeable, and they contain a durable, cupped base wad which allows for better seating of the wad and final crimping of the shell. I have also used both Federal Gold Medal and Top Gun hulls and have found that they work but contain a felt base wad and are made of less durable plastic.
@CMgunguy44 - Was this after reloading? I was wanting to buy some Flechettes (steel darts) remove the steel shot bb's and make my own.
This may be a dumb question, but what is the difference between game loads and field loads?
I only load regular lead shot but your best bet would be a Federal Gold Medal or a Remington Nitro Mag hull
do you use the same data for more then
one type of hull
Great video. Can the powder charge raise above the brass? or does it have to be just at the brass level? Thanks.
In modern plastic hulls, the only purpose served by high brass is cosmetic and marketing.
The brass has no effect whatsoever with the ability of the hull to handle stiffer loads or higher level of powder charge.
The high brass thing is an artifact from paper hulls, in which the high brass did indeed serve the purpose of preventing the powder from burning a hole through the paper.
Plastic hulls ended of that.
@@Gunners_Mate_Guns thank you.
I asked the question 12 years ago, but I still appreciate the response 🙂
@@tsafa You're very welcome.
The breech is what contains the pressures of firing, not the brass portion of the hull; and modern plastic hulls easily withstand the heat from the powder burning,
To give you an example of taking this to the extreme, there were shot shells in the 1970s through the 1990s made by a company in West Virginia called Active with no brass whatsoever.
The Activ shells only had an overmolded skeletal steel support in the hull head that served only to provide a rigid primer pocket, with the entire body of the hull, including the rim, consisting of a unified piece of high quality plastic.
I shot a few hundred of those, and they turned out to be excellent shells, and lots of reloaders prize the empty hulls decades after the company was sold to a South American company and relocated there, especially for waterfowl hunting because the Activ hulls have an unusually high internal capacity.
Here's what the look like today from the South American company currently making them (the ones I shot in the 1980s were red) - www.hampelsgunco.com/uploads/1574457563610.jpeg
Ballistic Products even has a short explanation about the Activ hulls with a cutaway diagram here - www.ballisticproducts.com/bpi/articleindex/articles/activ_info1/activhulls.htm
I do miss the Activ and original Winchester AA hulls, and I kick myself for not having trashed the hundreds of them that I fired back in the 1980s.
Excellent information. Thank you
I wanna start reloading with a single reloader. I shoot 50-100 rounds a week, and usally they are Federal #8 loads. Are they durable?
What exactly do you mean by "backup" loads? Thank you.
Why dont you use high brass?
@Derail07
I used to and they got stuck in my gun. Every time I shot the shell, the brass would swell up against the inside wall of my chamber, making it impossible to eject properly.
@CMgunguy44 do you size the base?
Yes 20 does seem a little over estimated there most people get about 10 loads out of once fired sts or AA hulls but it does depend on the powder .... a fast burning powder like red dot will burn up the casings much quicker than say a slow burning powder like Winchester super field
do you have any data for the winchester universal loads? they sell them in 100 packs
So, he uploaded the video twice and the second time without sound?
can you load federal hulls that say field and range looking to load 1&1/4
@ruizhernandeztrustfi for a reloader i had "lee loadall" a very affordable reloader
what about those shells which were trampled under people's feet??
can they still be reshaped and reloaded??
Strictly speaking, yes. But why would you want to, except to say you can?
@camerl2009
Yes
i personally agree with rug head 1000
anything on slug loads
@mrbunny thats your problem, not winchester's. Why would you pay 8k for a barrel.
how much is a 12 guage rounds
It is not recommended, The brass will clean up, but you may end up with media inside, and the plastic may get brittle faster. More problems can rise if you washed them, a drop of water can cause primer to powder detination issues and the drop may not be observable. Better to just reload, use a towel if you want to look clean to wipe down.
@CMgunguy44 Thanks for reply.
That's why i use them in a single shot.
He pretty much said the same thing about all the hulls but still ok video.
nvm someone answered that question already
@tyler1245789 Don't try mixing bird and buck shot, that could put you, your gun, and other people around you!
up to 20 times??? i used to reload shells,the most times i could reload a shell is 3 times after that they split.
@theswordsman09 load data from books
Would be much better if it was in focus.
This video was basically useless didn't say what was good or bad just said all were pretty good.
Estate is made by federal
This guy knows nothing about loading. Certain machines "like" steel vs brass so I won't say anything about that, but I will mention the base wads. This guy mentions nothing about how all the steel-headed shells have separate base wads that could potentially come off after the ignition of the primer. This then could shoot into the barrel and thus creating an obstruction. Not only does he forget to mention that , but he also fails to mention the fact that some hulls are tapered and some are straight, thus affecting the velocity given that you don't change wads. This guys "20 reloads is a fat lie. I primarily shoot STS hulls, clean them all around the outside including the plastic and the brass, and can only get maybe 10 loads. Anything getting up to that number starts to lose pressure and then you lose velocity. Cheapskates are the reason why reloaders get a bad name. Consider selling your loader.
Jeff Pingel bullshit. Rem Gun Club has steel head and no base wad. Youdon’t know wtf you’re yapping about
@@j.rob.5943
Exactly and I'm looking at my Remington Gun Club hulls right as we speak! Coming on youtube is like going to a bar...too many dumb azzes trying to sound smart and hoping no one exposes them
Mannyca has a series on how many times you can load different hulls….. awesome
where is reloadnig?but stupid the film