I watched this video years ago. I have a lot lot more experience loading blackpowder muzzleloaders and making blackpowder buckshot. So, looking at it again with fresh and experienced eyes, this video is very very good for making blackpowder shotgun shells. Very good job sir.
Notes: 1. If you drill a small hole across that 5/8-3/4" doweling where you want to cut off the hull, stick a #11 XActo blade in the hole at a slight angle and turn the dowel. The plastic will peel off and trim the hulls smooth and square at the same place every time. 2. 3f Goex is too hot for shot. Go with 1f and you will have the square load set up my DuPont in the 1830s. 3. If you use a hard card ( 1/8"-ish thick) over the powder to act like a piston you do better with your load. In some old guns plastic cups will make a mess of things. For sure use at least 3-4 more hard cards on top of one or a fiber wad. 4. Use of fiber wads alone is not why shot donuts. This is caused by acceleration. (Back to #2.) If you slow down your acceleration, shot tends to not donut. ( why your square load of 3f is too hot.) Other than that, this is a very good how to. Good show.
Love those reloaded shells. Cheaper than factory loads and accurate. Reloaded for years without using a scale. One day I put too much powder in the shell. THE results were a destroyed firing pin. Never did that again
Hahahaha, love the comment about the paper punch and shell being matching pink. In the early 80's when CAS (even before SASS) started it was very common to hear all the rugged Cowboys standing around talking fashion and the Cowgirls talking 'bout their new guns. What a sport.
"Not like you'd wanna use black powder in one of those anyway" Funny Tudenom, I'm actually here for exactly that. I was thinking of getting one of those muzzle-loader barrels for my mossberg 500, and realized that if I really wanted the smoke and flame and smell of BP I should just load up normal shells with BP instead of paying another 100 or more dollars on a special barrel.
I purchased a roll crimping tool and hulls/supplies because of this video. I am trying something similar but with Pyrodex and buckshot. Actual black powder is not the easiest thing to find in my area right now for some reason. I probably should try some #9 shot or something, really cool stuff nonetheless. Either way I can't wait to test them!
I have loaded many cartridge rounds through the years, shotgun loading is new to me. Looking forward to loading for my scatterguns. Thank you for a good video.
Very good video. Shows how easy reloading shotgun hulls, especially 12ga. are. I like BP, and have loaded shotgun, rifle, and pistol center-fire rounds, as well as cap & ball & muzzle loaders.... As you stated, if reloading fired hulls for the shotgun they were fired in, should chamber OK... If buying fired hulls, need to size the brass... Lachmiller Shell Saver works well... I use a handheld primer tool, like a nutcracker, although have had only a few primers go off pounding the brass down over the primer.... mainly .38... My supply of BP is 30 yrs old, and I've had to dry it out several times, with an incandescent bulb . Additionally, I like to do binary loads - fancy term for a dribble of smokeless over the primer, to set the BP off properly....Initially, I measured BP as carefully as smokeless...after a while, simply filled the case to the top, crammed a bullet down to compress the BP, and it worked great.... Can use a brass hull base as a primer holder, to use your 12ga as a muzzle-loader. With BP, prompt cleaning is necessary. Don't even wait to get home...with break-action single shot & double shotguns, the barrels should separate from the stock easily....place the barrel muzzle down in soapy water, run the rod & rag up & down, to get the corrosive salts neutralized. A proper cleaning at home would be great.... I enjoy firing BP in modern revolvers.... however, the action tends to get gummed up. Simply take the grips off, drop in a gallon of diesel, work the action after a day or two, repeat. ENJOY !
Hi is this george ulicu.. I just read your reply your very knowledgable I have been gun collector and shooter all my life just now wanting to learn about reloading can't wait plus want to learn black powder guns shooting everything
Great video. I have an old single shot that's around a hundred years old with two and a half inch chamber. Been itchin to shoot it , but can't find shorter shells. Thanks to you IL trim regular shells down , and load them with black powder. I know pressures are lower than smokeless , so maybe the ole cannon will roar again. Great video.
You may have heard about the cut down rounds for shotguns they are around a inch and a half long and come in every type of round to. without the wadding powder and shot doesn't take up much room. You can buy them and make them so many people buy them because you can put twice the amount of shells in your tube. Anyone that owns a shotgun should look them up there is even flashbangs. I hope i didn't waste our time and list a bunch of crap you already know about now. Either way good luck
Nice video! One thing to take into consideration is to avoid the use of potentially sparking tools such as the (presumably) steel funnel & steel rule. A plastic funnel would be a better alternative, & either a plastic or preferably wooden rule (or thin piece of wood) as a levelling tool would reduce the chances of getting your fingers burned. Very interesting & informative video though, I very much enjoyed it! 😀
Instead of a punch I got a 5/8"dowel and put a deck screw into the center, then ground the head off to punch out the caps. It speeds up the process. Don't have to search for the cap with the punch or nail. I put a little tape on the dowel so it just fits. You could use a 3/4" dowel and sand it down to fit as well. Hope this helps someone.
Usually you can find an older Lee Loader kit at a gun show or on the internet for $15 to $20 that has all of the tools needed to reload shotgun shells. A word of caution - if you study a reloading manual you begin to realize that reloading shotgun shells is like baking a cake and you have to use the correct components and the combination (primer, powder, wad, shot and crimp) depends on the type of hull being used based on the manufacturer. Selecting the correct components can be a challenge. Even when loading with black powder the components are important. Also, black powder is different for pistols, rifles, shotguns, and cannons so you need to use the correct granulation (Fg, FFg, FFFg, etc). It will generate high pressures if the wrong granulation is used. If shooting an old twist-steel barrel shotgun it is possible to blow up the barrel because the steel strands making up the barrel may have developed internal rusting that weakens the barrel so it is best to make that one a wall hanger display piece. Additional note, under no circumstances would a load of BB's be wise because without a proper wad and buffering material and shot cup you could banana the end of the barrel. BB's do not compress like lead shot, there is no "give" in the shot column. I am not an expert and provide this input based on my reading of several reloading manuals and study.
I was doing this back when I was a teenager although I had the benefit of a loading machine. I used the plastic wods like you and I would cut off a cup but I would also cut off the base and use that part over the powder. It was a lot of fun but I was not getting good groups compare to my regular reloads. You should invest in a roll crimper that way you could eliminate the step with the glue
*If you splurge for a roll crimp tool and a Ballistic Products shell length cutter... you could make those more consistent and they would appear to be professionally done. Rubbing or isopropyl alcohol will usually remove the ink labels from shotshells.*
Your primer seating dowel should have a small relief hole in the end to allow for primer clearance. Once in a while the base wad gets compressed and without the hole the dowel is striking the tip of the primer. Otherwise, thumbs up 👍.
Ahh, I had to reread your comment and yes. I use a small hollow pipe so that nothing is resting on the primer. The pipe rests on the area around the primer.
Nice video! I'm currently working on a video on this very topic. I'm using new shells with unfired primers still in them, but I like your method of repriming the spent shells.
How about now ?----> 1,112,557 views• You do a really good job on many aspects of the video. You keep it moving with the explanation and demonstration. You follow procedure and add a little bit of technique. I was glad you went into it without a bunch of common sense safety talk about not attempting to do it by candle light, while smoking, or while tending to several small children. New sub here and now i'm going to check out your black powder shotgun video.
Using a hammer to seat the primer would make me a bit nervous. If you have a drill press you can use that to press in the primer and compact the powder.
You might want to ditch that plastic dipper for the powder and use something brass. Static electricity and black powder do not mix well! It tends to go BOOM! I’ve loaded tons of black powder, and everything I’ve ever read says stay away from plastic measures! Safety is always your first concern.
wonderful video. something I definitely wanna try, I was planning to also try *producing* my own powder but that seems kinda sketchy as I'm not a chemist so I'll probably just find some
That would be an interesting project, though I have seen quite a few videos where they say things like "make in small batches so you don't blow your face off if things go wrong". That scares me a bit, I'd like to keep my face the way it is, I'm rather fond of it seeing that I've had it my whole life. Also, it's illegal to make your own black powder in Canada, so there's that getting in the way as well.
thankfully I live in the US, and will soon be on a larger property than I am now so i won't draw concern by lighting random powders on fire in the yard. should probably make small batches like you said until I can get something consistent before I even think of loading shells with it
You want to be careful when tapping in your new primer like that. If the primer goes off, your wooden dowel might become a projectile. Great video though, lots of good stuff here.
Good grief. This is so simple even I can do it…and will! Pyrodex is much cheaper than smokeless powder and I’m doing a lot of shotgun hunting these days. Thanks for the video!
Good high quality video, but if you are open to it I have a couple of suggestions. The first suggestion would be to add more safety warnings like reiterating every now and again to make sure the primers are detonated before you try to remove them and reminding people how important it is for weights to be exact and for you to do the proper calculations on powder equivalencies , you know just small things that could have big impacts on people's safety other than that you're doing a great job buddy keep up the good work very interesting stuff here. My grade for this video (which is opinion and for all intent and purpose is 100% meaningless, unless you consider me... some guy you've never met before that you came across on UA-cam to have some merit, well then that's a different story LOL) a solid (B+)
A large *pin punch* would be better than your *drift punch.* It's cylindrical, so it won't expand the primer pocket if you hit it a little too hard on the last bump; also, it's got a little bump in the center that will hold the punch aligned with the primer's flash hole. Most likely a 3/16 punch would do the job. Also, after you trim the crimp, your shells are 2 1/2, since the measurement is of the uncrimped hull. Cut off 1/4 inch, and you've converted a 2 3/4 into a 2 1/2 (but that's correct size to feed in a 2 3/4 action when not crimped as your reloads are). For old fashioned non-plastic wads, you'd load an overpowder nitro card, usually 0.125" thick and a snug fit in the shell (or barrel, for a muzzleloader), push that down flat on the powder, then a thickness of fiber cushion wad sufficient to give the column height you want (more critical if you're star crimping than for uncrimped glued-in or roll crimped shells with over shot cards), then shot and either a fold crimp (like most modern factory shells), over shot card plus roll crimp, or a glued-in over shot card like those you make here (which, as you note, don't require any shotgun-specific tools).
plastic is not recommended per the LEE manual for their scoops, measures, or funnels due to static of the plastic and black powder incompatibility. OK for nitrocellulose based though.
I load around 70 grains in my plastic shells with a fiber waxed wad for my old NR. Davis and sons double they pattern really well and I hunt with it. Difference being I use a loader and crimp them ,I like the trimmed case look so I went to paper hulls can THESE be reloaded again does the shot itself ''clean'' out the glue
I've never reloaded paper shotgun shells myself, but from what I understand they were standard at one time and people reloaded them. I expect the loading procedure is the same, but it would be best to go to a shotgun reloading message board and see if you can get some tips from an old pro. He might save you some grief! The glue is almost always ejected out with the shot but every once and a while I'll have a small amount left on the inside of the shotshell after firing. I soak the fired shells in soapy water after a shoot to stop black powder corrosion, the glue peels off easily after soaking for a few hours. This won't work well with paper hulls obviously, but you should be able to scrape any remaining glue off.
You put them flat on a hard wood board, you press a big blade on it and knock hard with a hammer... I dont use glue but hot wax to seal. Better for the barrel. Thanks for the video👍
That's true. Most reloading components can be purchased and shipped in Canada as long as you use a courier and not Canada Post for explosive materials. You have to do your homework though and make arrangements ahead of time with the seller and the courier. Some couriers require MSDS sheets to be placed on the package (you'll have to arrange this with the seller), some require someone to sign off on delivery, and most charge extra fees for dangerous materials. Canpar seems to be a favorite for shipping these sorts of things, but you have to make sure they have a depot in your town (most small towns don't). If they can't catch you at home them they will return the shipment to the seller.
gun control advocate .....A calm, cool, steady hand in the appropriete direction! thanks for the tutorial I like your method better... I made one with a slug I got a set shot checking fence, deer was ten yards totally off guard crawled down the fence to a hole in the brush. slug went into heart cavity, blew guts every where, dropped her where she stood...good eating skinned it right there...coyotes smelled the blood and came for a visit ...got a little too brave black powdered both in the same shot..that was a home made donut pattern ...watered elmers glue number 4 in the middle of bird shot. I call it "shaped charge" it tore the asses of both coyotes. good video TY
I have an old double barrel side-by-side Henry 12 gauge shotgun and it for black powder this was very helpful but my question is if you have this shotgun at home for protection and you hardly go to the range and shoot it how long with these shells last in your home or how long can you keep them without shooting and to be dependable.
I have some shells that have fired no problems up to 12 months or more after loading, but I live in a relatively dry environment. I suppose moisture would be the biggest threat to reliability since the shells are not well sealed. If you live in a coastal or tropical environment with high humidity then it might be something to worry about. But if they're stored in a dry space then you should be good for years.
Hello Nchum, thanks for the question. I’m not sure pellet stacking is going to help with accuracy with this method of re-loading shot shells. The method I demonstrate is really crude and likely extremely inaccurate. You could try stacking the pellets, but since there’s no cushioning wad the pellets are going from 0 to very fast in an instant, the G forces they go through are likely to deform the pellets and wreck your carefully placed stack. The seal is pretty weak too, so even though the shot is in a cup there’s a chance some of the pellets at the base are being heated and possibly melted together. I’ve never shot the demonstrated load through a crono, but I’m guessing the velocity is inconsistent due to the “by feel” method I use to compress the powder, plus the shell is not crimped. Not only that but there isn’t much variability in burn rate for black powder, at least compared to smokeless, so it’s difficult to fine tune for your particular shotgun. However, you might have better luck if you use a shotgun with more choke, you could also use a more traditional fibre wad and double card wad to seal the load from your powder better. You could also experiment with compression and crimps if you have a re-loading press. The best option would be to abandon black powder all together and seek out information on smokeless loads for your particular shotgun. Message boards are the perfect place to find old gray haired pro’s who have reloaded and shot millions of rounds. They tend to be very eager to help a guy out and can give you all kinds of tips on powder, wad, and shot combinations.
Mostly it's a safety thing. Smokeless powder can generate a lot more pressure than black powder and there's a lot more variations in burn rate. It's pretty easy to get yourself in trouble unless you're following the recommendations from a trusted source like a reloading manual. Black powder is a lot more forgiving and it's super bulky, so it's difficult to double charge accidentally.
@@MrTudenom Yes Sir. I did overload sometimes. and We used the shot, number 4 for upland. I see in the US, people use smaller shot. and kill well. Thanks
Trail Boss powder is a bit safer in the "smokeless" realm. This is the best video I've ever seen on reloading. I wonder if "square load" idea works with .410 loads too?
Its dangerous using an electric scale and ferrous funnels. The reason being is black powder is highly volatile, and being explosive you dont want to take any unnecessary risks that might be unfortunate.
MrTudenom, I enjoyed this video tremendously. I'm curious, what would a pump shotgun do to these reloaded trimmed shotshells? I'm thinking it would jam somehow, but I've not found an explanation anywhere. Would it gradually destroy the shotshell rim, or would it simply jam the feed mechanism?
could you do a follow up video with a shot on paper pattern? I think your load would throw an even pattern. I've seen some black powder loads on youtube that would throw donut shaped patterns, at best. Thanks for the vid, nice job.
For a load bigger than a light one, you'll need a cusion wad -- either felt, fiber or plastic. So, throwing away the cusion part of that conteiner was not a good idea...
Hi. Just subed & liked. I plan on reloading 12 guage shells for my side by side pretty new break barrel. Coach shotgun. My question is this: Could I use BB's? -- Either using the copper or the silver in color BB's?? Also, I'm shooting at an indoor range & could there be any OTHER powder than BLACK powder as this would cause my neighbors on either side to be choked out by all the smoke & air deterioration. I'm hoping this will not harm the barrels of my shotgun or anything else for that matter. GREAT & INSTRUCTIONAL VIDEO. Thank You for your help. Sincerely, JAMES.
Hi James (Buzz), thanks for the sub! Most BB pellets I know of are lead with plating on them, so it should be safe to use them. I don't think the plating will do any harm, the shot in enclosed in the wad cup as it travels down the barrel, so it shouldn't come in contact, and even if it did I doubt any modern shotgun barrel would see damage. I'm thinking the plating would be too soft compared to the barrel steel. You could use the methods shown to replace the primer and seal the top of the shot shell, but you would have to look up a suitable smokeless powder/wad/shot recipe from a reloading manual. The volume of powder shown in the video is specific to black powder and would be hugely excessive in a smokeless powder load
I would say don't use homemade black powder in a new couch gun as sulfur will mess with your barrel unless you want to clean it after every time you shoot it. Yes you could use BBs as used in BB guns but the range might not like it because you could do more damage then there range can take because they're steel projectiles.
I use 5/8" steel bearing-balls, usually wrapped in thin cardboard, soaked, and swaged around the ball to smooth it over. Very much less recoil by the lesser weight.
2.5 drams . take 2.5 x 27.3 = 68.25 grains of powder . I would suggest getting a dram/ounce dipper . it makes loading a shotgun shell or even a muzzleloading shotgun easier.
Jed I Knight has a great video on how to load black powder shot shells with a loader in quantity. I highly recommend checking it out: ua-cam.com/video/mXHpMoBQceY/v-deo.html
I watched this video years ago. I have a lot lot more experience loading blackpowder muzzleloaders and making blackpowder buckshot. So, looking at it again with fresh and experienced eyes, this video is very very good for making blackpowder shotgun shells. Very good job sir.
Notes: 1. If you drill a small hole across that 5/8-3/4" doweling where you want to cut off the hull, stick a #11 XActo blade in the hole at a slight angle and turn the dowel. The plastic will peel off and trim the hulls smooth and square at the same place every time. 2. 3f Goex is too hot for shot. Go with 1f and you will have the square load set up my DuPont in the 1830s. 3. If you use a hard card ( 1/8"-ish thick) over the powder to act like a piston you do better with your load. In some old guns plastic cups will make a mess of things. For sure use at least 3-4 more hard cards on top of one or a fiber wad. 4. Use of fiber wads alone is not why shot donuts. This is caused by acceleration. (Back to #2.) If you slow down your acceleration, shot tends to not donut. ( why your square load of 3f is too hot.) Other than that, this is a very good how to. Good show.
Really nice to see someone else is practicing low-tech methods-very satisfying!
I'm loading all brass 12 ga BP plinking slugs currently.
Love those reloaded shells. Cheaper than factory loads and accurate. Reloaded for years without using a scale. One day I put too much powder in the shell. THE results were a destroyed firing pin. Never did that again
Without a scale would be cutting it too close
Hahahaha, love the comment about the paper punch and shell being matching pink. In the early 80's when CAS (even before SASS) started it was very common to hear all the rugged Cowboys standing around talking fashion and the Cowgirls talking 'bout their new guns. What a sport.
"Not like you'd wanna use black powder in one of those anyway" Funny Tudenom, I'm actually here for exactly that. I was thinking of getting one of those muzzle-loader barrels for my mossberg 500, and realized that if I really wanted the smoke and flame and smell of BP I should just load up normal shells with BP instead of paying another 100 or more dollars on a special barrel.
I purchased a roll crimping tool and hulls/supplies because of this video. I am trying something similar but with Pyrodex and buckshot. Actual black powder is not the easiest thing to find in my area right now for some reason. I probably should try some #9 shot or something, really cool stuff nonetheless. Either way I can't wait to test them!
I have loaded many cartridge rounds through the years, shotgun loading is new to me. Looking forward to loading for my scatterguns. Thank you for a good video.
Very good video. Shows how easy reloading shotgun hulls, especially 12ga. are. I like BP, and have loaded shotgun, rifle, and pistol center-fire rounds, as well as cap & ball & muzzle loaders.... As you stated, if reloading fired hulls for the shotgun they were fired in, should chamber OK... If buying fired hulls, need to size the brass... Lachmiller Shell Saver works well... I use a handheld primer tool, like a nutcracker, although have had only a few primers go off pounding the brass down over the primer.... mainly .38...
My supply of BP is 30 yrs old, and I've had to dry it out several times, with an incandescent bulb . Additionally, I like to do binary loads - fancy term for a dribble of smokeless over the primer, to set the BP off properly....Initially, I measured BP as carefully as smokeless...after a while, simply filled the case to the top, crammed a bullet down to compress the BP, and it worked great.... Can use a brass hull base as a primer holder, to use your 12ga as a muzzle-loader.
With BP, prompt cleaning is necessary. Don't even wait to get home...with break-action single shot & double shotguns, the barrels should separate from the stock easily....place the barrel muzzle down in soapy water, run the rod & rag up & down, to get the corrosive salts neutralized. A proper cleaning at home would be great....
I enjoy firing BP in modern revolvers.... however, the action tends to get gummed up. Simply take the grips off, drop in a gallon of diesel, work the action after a day or two, repeat.
ENJOY !
Hi is this george ulicu.. I just read your reply your very knowledgable I have been gun collector and shooter all my life just now wanting to learn about reloading can't wait plus want to learn black powder guns shooting everything
Thanks. Happy to help.
Well done. I have a Damascus style old shotgun and I’m going to start reloading, so this video is informative for me. Thanks
"matching pink card cutter" Lol. You have a good sense of humor
Great video. I have an old single shot that's around a hundred years old with two and a half inch chamber. Been itchin to shoot it , but can't find shorter shells. Thanks to you IL trim regular shells down , and load them with black powder. I know pressures are lower than smokeless , so maybe the ole cannon will roar again. Great video.
You may have heard about the cut down rounds for shotguns they are around a inch and a half long and come in every type of round to. without the wadding powder and shot doesn't take up much room. You can buy them and make them so many people buy them because you can put twice the amount of shells in your tube. Anyone that owns a shotgun should look them up there is even flashbangs. I hope i didn't waste our time and list a bunch of crap you already know about now. Either way good luck
This fucken stupid eating lot of time unwantedly.
@@jrcostilla9105 they are called "mini shells"
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Nice video! One thing to take into consideration is to avoid the use of potentially sparking tools such as the (presumably) steel funnel & steel rule. A plastic funnel would be a better alternative, & either a plastic or preferably wooden rule (or thin piece of wood) as a levelling tool would reduce the chances of getting your fingers burned. Very interesting & informative video though, I very much enjoyed it! 😀
Mr Longshanks Everything he is using is Stainless steel or aluminum, both of those metals will not spark, no worries.
Better not to go with plastics. Sometimes they can build up a static charge which can ignite powder
Excellent information and well explained. I’ll be loading like this for my 16 bore. Thanks for sharing. All the best from Scotland. Garry
Instead of a punch I got a 5/8"dowel and put a deck screw into the center, then ground the head off to punch out the caps. It speeds up the process. Don't have to search for the cap with the punch or nail. I put a little tape on the dowel so it just fits. You could use a 3/4" dowel and sand it down to fit as well. Hope this helps someone.
good idea
Usually you can find an older Lee Loader kit at a gun show or on the internet for $15 to $20 that has all of the tools needed to reload shotgun shells. A word of caution - if you study a reloading manual you begin to realize that reloading shotgun shells is like baking a cake and you have to use the correct components and the combination (primer, powder, wad, shot and crimp) depends on the type of hull being used based on the manufacturer. Selecting the correct components can be a challenge. Even when loading with black powder the components are important. Also, black powder is different for pistols, rifles, shotguns, and cannons so you need to use the correct granulation (Fg, FFg, FFFg, etc). It will generate high pressures if the wrong granulation is used. If shooting an old twist-steel barrel shotgun it is possible to blow up the barrel because the steel strands making up the barrel may have developed internal rusting that weakens the barrel so it is best to make that one a wall hanger display piece. Additional note, under no circumstances would a load of BB's be wise because without a proper wad and buffering material and shot cup you could banana the end of the barrel. BB's do not compress like lead shot, there is no "give" in the shot column. I am not an expert and provide this input based on my reading of several reloading manuals and study.
From a Canadian to obviously another Canadian thanks very informative
Most funniest part was the pink matching reloading equipment lol 😂😂😂
I was doing this back when I was a teenager although I had the benefit of a loading machine. I used the plastic wods like you and I would cut off a cup but I would also cut off the base and use that part over the powder. It was a lot of fun but I was not getting good groups compare to my regular reloads. You should invest in a roll crimper that way you could eliminate the step with the glue
*If you splurge for a roll crimp tool and a Ballistic Products shell length cutter... you could make those more consistent and they would appear to be professionally done. Rubbing or isopropyl alcohol will usually remove the ink labels from shotshells.*
great tip on the alcohol!
Your primer seating dowel should have a small relief hole in the end to allow for primer clearance. Once in a while the base wad gets compressed and without the hole the dowel is striking the tip of the primer. Otherwise, thumbs up 👍.
Ahh, I had to reread your comment and yes. I use a small hollow pipe so that nothing is resting on the primer. The pipe rests on the area around the primer.
Thanks, have a 16 gauge
Ammo is hard to find in the best of times. Knowing how to reload with simple tools will definitely help mediate that
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You can get roll crimper very inexpensive. it will roll the edge under and hold your top card down. Well worth the coins.
I enjoyed the ingenuity and commentary. Outstanding! Thanks for the great video. =D
Great video! I didn't realize it was so easy. Thanks so much for making this video.
Excellent period of instruction Sir.
Awesome video. Getting a old shotgun soon to play with.
I’m stoked to give this a go immediately!! Great video, pleasant voice!
Thanks Doug!
Nice video! I'm currently working on a video on this very topic. I'm using new shells with unfired primers still in them, but I like your method of repriming the spent shells.
Thanks! I can't take credit for the de-priming and priming method though, I learned that from Mike Beliveau's channel (Duelist1954).
MrTudenom, that guy's great!
My dad does the exact same thing, great video
nice video, very detail and clear,hope see more your video about hunting and gun
Here I am listening intently... Then I here Overweighty.... Then I'm like OMG a few British Columbian lol
It’s a secret code only BC’ers understand LOL
@@MrTudenom appreciate the info ya provided though... I'm in process of doing 410 brass reloads and looking into black powder
Watching and listening from pinas garita San Enrique iloilo.
This is a great video! Thanks for making it for us!
James Cooper
to
How about now ?----> 1,112,557 views• You do a really good job on many aspects of the video. You keep it moving with the explanation and demonstration. You follow procedure and add a little bit of technique. I was glad you went into it without a bunch of common sense safety talk about not attempting to do it by candle light, while smoking, or while tending to several small children. New sub here and now i'm going to check out your black powder shotgun video.
Using a hammer to seat the primer would make me a bit nervous. If you have a drill press you can use that to press in the primer and compact the powder.
You might want to ditch that plastic dipper for the powder and use something brass. Static electricity and black powder do not mix well! It tends to go BOOM!
I’ve loaded tons of black powder, and everything I’ve ever read says stay away from plastic measures!
Safety is always your first concern.
Thank you for your kind reply
folse, vocus, very bad video. time pass, nesty video.
Have u ever used wax to substitute the glues
wonderful video. something I definitely wanna try, I was planning to also try *producing* my own powder but that seems kinda sketchy as I'm not a chemist so I'll probably just find some
That would be an interesting project, though I have seen quite a few videos where they say things like "make in small batches so you don't blow your face off if things go wrong". That scares me a bit, I'd like to keep my face the way it is, I'm rather fond of it seeing that I've had it my whole life.
Also, it's illegal to make your own black powder in Canada, so there's that getting in the way as well.
thankfully I live in the US, and will soon be on a larger property than I am now so i won't draw concern by lighting random powders on fire in the yard. should probably make small batches like you said until I can get something consistent before I even think of loading shells with it
You want to be careful when tapping in your new primer like that. If the primer goes off, your wooden dowel might become a projectile. Great video though, lots of good stuff here.
Nice video enjoyed it and learn something
Your brilliant dude keep up the awsome work.
Thanks an bunch!
The stamp is the best part
Mp M
Good grief. This is so simple even I can do it…and will! Pyrodex is much cheaper than smokeless powder and I’m doing a lot of shotgun hunting these days. Thanks for the video!
Awesome video. Thank You. I'll be making these for a 12 ga. cannon. ( NO Shot )
This makes Mr want to reload. That was so simple
Reloading the BP shotgun shells is very simple. As you can see from this video, no special equipment is needed.
Good high quality video, but if you are open to it I have a couple of suggestions. The first suggestion would be to add more safety warnings like reiterating every now and again to make sure the primers are detonated before you try to remove them and reminding people how important it is for weights to be exact and for you to do the proper calculations on powder equivalencies , you know just small things that could have big impacts on people's safety other than that you're doing a great job buddy keep up the good work very interesting stuff here. My grade for this video (which is opinion and for all intent and purpose is 100% meaningless, unless you consider me... some guy you've never met before that you came across on UA-cam to have some merit, well then that's a different story LOL) a solid (B+)
A large *pin punch* would be better than your *drift punch.* It's cylindrical, so it won't expand the primer pocket if you hit it a little too hard on the last bump; also, it's got a little bump in the center that will hold the punch aligned with the primer's flash hole. Most likely a 3/16 punch would do the job.
Also, after you trim the crimp, your shells are 2 1/2, since the measurement is of the uncrimped hull. Cut off 1/4 inch, and you've converted a 2 3/4 into a 2 1/2 (but that's correct size to feed in a 2 3/4 action when not crimped as your reloads are).
For old fashioned non-plastic wads, you'd load an overpowder nitro card, usually 0.125" thick and a snug fit in the shell (or barrel, for a muzzleloader), push that down flat on the powder, then a thickness of fiber cushion wad sufficient to give the column height you want (more critical if you're star crimping than for uncrimped glued-in or roll crimped shells with over shot cards), then shot and either a fold crimp (like most modern factory shells), over shot card plus roll crimp, or a glued-in over shot card like those you make here (which, as you note, don't require any shotgun-specific tools).
You might concider using a copper or plastic funnel, due to static electricty!! If that 67 gns flashes you will get burnt !!!!
you might have a point! Thanks for the tip Dave.
TheDave570 stainless steel does not spark
Number do
plastic is not recommended per the LEE manual for their scoops, measures, or funnels due to static of the plastic and black powder incompatibility. OK for nitrocellulose based though.
No plastic only very conductive metals.
I would advise using an antique shot/powder measure . they measure in dram/ounce .
Very nice, cheap and easy, thanks
I won't be reloading shotgun shells like this ever but very interesting vid lol
Very good refilling
Never had a issue with fiber wads shooting a hole thru load
Very nice works
Nicely done
Yoo matching colors of tools is imp to me too
.
I load around 70 grains in my plastic shells with a fiber waxed wad for my old NR. Davis and sons double they pattern really well and I hunt with it. Difference being I use a loader and crimp them ,I like the trimmed case look so I went to paper hulls can THESE be reloaded again does the shot itself ''clean'' out the glue
I've never reloaded paper shotgun shells myself, but from what I understand they were standard at one time and people reloaded them. I expect the loading procedure is the same, but it would be best to go to a shotgun reloading message board and see if you can get some tips from an old pro. He might save you some grief!
The glue is almost always ejected out with the shot but every once and a while I'll have a small amount left on the inside of the shotshell after firing. I soak the fired shells in soapy water after a shoot to stop black powder corrosion, the glue peels off easily after soaking for a few hours. This won't work well with paper hulls obviously, but you should be able to scrape any remaining glue off.
I just loaded up a box of paper shells yesterday and trimmed the hulls with an old trimmer worked out great and look good too
Nice!
You put them flat on a hard wood board, you press a big blade on it and knock hard with a hammer... I dont use glue but hot wax to seal. Better for the barrel. Thanks for the video👍
Nice. I am debating a purchase of an older double 12 proofed for smokeless. A British hammer gun is my goal but I can settle for a nice Belgian.
In your country every thing is available, especially primer
If I place an order for primer,will it be possible for me to obtain them by parcel
That's true. Most reloading components can be purchased and shipped in Canada as long as you use a courier and not Canada Post for explosive materials.
You have to do your homework though and make arrangements ahead of time with the seller and the courier. Some couriers require MSDS sheets to be placed on the package (you'll have to arrange this with the seller), some require someone to sign off on delivery, and most charge extra fees for dangerous materials.
Canpar seems to be a favorite for shipping these sorts of things, but you have to make sure they have a depot in your town (most small towns don't). If they can't catch you at home them they will return the shipment to the seller.
After that all you need is a second SA revolver and you'll be set for Cowboy Action Shooting 😊
gun control advocate .....A calm, cool, steady hand in the appropriete direction!
thanks for the tutorial I like your method better...
I made one with a slug I got a set shot checking fence, deer was ten yards totally off guard crawled down the fence to a hole in the brush. slug went into heart cavity, blew guts every where, dropped her where she stood...good eating skinned it right there...coyotes smelled the blood and came for a visit ...got a little too brave black powdered both in the same shot..that was a home made donut pattern ...watered elmers glue number 4 in the middle of bird shot. I call it "shaped charge" it tore the asses of both coyotes.
good video TY
Poor puppy, lol.
Will this work with buck shot or foster slugs as well?
get a antique roll crimper , then use glue . they work on paper or plastic hulls.
weitzfc1 nailed it!
I second that. But I use water glass instead of glue. Notice a better pattern with roll instead of star crimp
Helpful information thank you for sharing..
I do my shells the same way!!.I just need a 3/4 hole punch like you got.. great minds think a like 😄.. good video, thanks!
You can order some good quality punches from Track of the Wolf. I love that place, it has all the goodies!
@@MrTudenom thanks 👍
Great 👍
You should have a pink scale
I have an old double barrel side-by-side Henry 12 gauge shotgun and it for black powder this was very helpful but my question is if you have this shotgun at home for protection and you hardly go to the range and shoot it how long with these shells last in your home or how long can you keep them without shooting and to be dependable.
I have some shells that have fired no problems up to 12 months or more after loading, but I live in a relatively dry environment.
I suppose moisture would be the biggest threat to reliability since the shells are not well sealed. If you live in a coastal or tropical environment with high humidity then it might be something to worry about. But if they're stored in a dry space then you should be good for years.
An antique or replica roll crimping tool is like $20... Way less expensive than glue in the long run.
I agree, one of those tools or a spin type that goes into a drill chuck would be an all around a better option.
Great job loved it
Awesome vid! 👍
I can't believe this video has hit 200,000 views.
well now its 1 million views. congrats
Its 1 million now lol
Is there anyway we can arrange the pellets for better accuracy?? I made one and tried the the pellets spreads too far before reaching the target.
Hello Nchum, thanks for the question. I’m not sure pellet stacking is going to help with accuracy with this method of re-loading shot shells. The method I demonstrate is really crude and likely extremely inaccurate.
You could try stacking the pellets, but since there’s no cushioning wad the pellets are going from 0 to very fast in an instant, the G forces they go through are likely to deform the pellets and wreck your carefully placed stack. The seal is pretty weak too, so even though the shot is in a cup there’s a chance some of the pellets at the base are being heated and possibly melted together.
I’ve never shot the demonstrated load through a crono, but I’m guessing the velocity is inconsistent due to the “by feel” method I use to compress the powder, plus the shell is not crimped. Not only that but there isn’t much variability in burn rate for black powder, at least compared to smokeless, so it’s difficult to fine tune for your particular shotgun.
However, you might have better luck if you use a shotgun with more choke, you could also use a more traditional fibre wad and double card wad to seal the load from your powder better. You could also experiment with compression and crimps if you have a re-loading press.
The best option would be to abandon black powder all together and seek out information on smokeless loads for your particular shotgun. Message boards are the perfect place to find old gray haired pro’s who have reloaded and shot millions of rounds. They tend to be very eager to help a guy out and can give you all kinds of tips on powder, wad, and shot combinations.
A hand roll crimper would help. Wouldn't need glue and shells would load better.
The over shot card will interfere with the shot pattern causing blown patterns.
Like this is a good invention
Excellent! It's good to be American!
So
Why black powder, Sir?
In our village in Iran. I did this with smokeless gun powder!
Mostly it's a safety thing. Smokeless powder can generate a lot more pressure than black powder and there's a lot more variations in burn rate.
It's pretty easy to get yourself in trouble unless you're following the recommendations from a trusted source like a reloading manual.
Black powder is a lot more forgiving and it's super bulky, so it's difficult to double charge accidentally.
@@MrTudenom Yes Sir.
I did overload sometimes.
and We used the shot, number 4 for upland.
I see in the US, people use smaller shot.
and kill well.
Thanks
Trail Boss powder is a bit safer in the "smokeless" realm.
This is the best video I've ever seen on reloading. I wonder if "square load" idea works with .410 loads too?
Its dangerous using an electric scale and ferrous funnels. The reason being is black powder is highly volatile, and being explosive you dont want to take any unnecessary risks that might be unfortunate.
I'm buying a dbl barrel shotgun just so I can be like you. No I'm serious LOL
MrTudenom, I enjoyed this video tremendously. I'm curious, what would a pump shotgun do to these reloaded trimmed shotshells? I'm thinking it would jam somehow, but I've not found an explanation anywhere. Would it gradually destroy the shotshell rim, or would it simply jam the feed mechanism?
I am trying
if you roll crimp them , you should not have problems.
Riflechair
R/thathappened
Pleas post a video regarding reloading of rifle & revolvers.
could you do a follow up video with a shot on paper pattern? I think your load would throw an even pattern. I've seen some black powder loads on youtube that would throw donut shaped patterns, at best. Thanks for the vid, nice job.
Can do. I should be able to hit the range this weekend and I'll post the results.
Looking info on BP loading .690 round ball in 12 GA hulls.
Nice video, i do this the same way, my question is the pink schell you cut off how manny inches is that.
For a load bigger than a light one, you'll need a cusion wad -- either felt, fiber or plastic. So, throwing away the cusion part of that conteiner was not a good idea...
It's cushion
@@billfrederickfrederick2791
Cushion, yes. Thanks for the correcrtion.
Uq tayyorlash ham qiyin ekan aaa
Hi. Just subed & liked. I plan on reloading 12 guage shells for my side by side pretty new break barrel. Coach shotgun. My question is this: Could I use BB's? -- Either using the copper or the silver in color BB's?? Also, I'm shooting at an indoor range & could there be any OTHER powder than BLACK powder as this would cause my neighbors on either side to be choked out by all the smoke & air deterioration. I'm hoping this will not harm the barrels of my shotgun or anything else for that matter. GREAT & INSTRUCTIONAL VIDEO. Thank You for your help. Sincerely, JAMES.
Hi James (Buzz), thanks for the sub!
Most BB pellets I know of are lead with plating on them, so it should be safe to use them. I don't think the plating will do any harm, the shot in enclosed in the wad cup as it travels down the barrel, so it shouldn't come in contact, and even if it did I doubt any modern shotgun barrel would see damage. I'm thinking the plating would be too soft compared to the barrel steel.
You could use the methods shown to replace the primer and seal the top of the shot shell, but you would have to look up a suitable smokeless powder/wad/shot recipe from a reloading manual. The volume of powder shown in the video is specific to black powder and would be hugely excessive in a smokeless powder load
I would say don't use homemade black powder in a new couch gun as sulfur will mess with your barrel unless you want to clean it after every time you shoot it. Yes you could use BBs as used in BB guns but the range might not like it because you could do more damage then there range can take because they're steel projectiles.
Nice bro...
Have you tried reloading them using rifled slugs yet ? If so what slugs did you use ?
I use 5/8" steel bearing-balls, usually wrapped in thin cardboard, soaked, and swaged around the ball to smooth it over. Very much less recoil by the lesser weight.
You can use a roll crimp or even a crimp starter.
how much black powder i need for 1oz of lead shot in a 16 gauge (2 1/2 )
2.5 drams . take 2.5 x 27.3 = 68.25 grains of powder . I would suggest getting a dram/ounce dipper . it makes loading a shotgun shell or even a muzzleloading shotgun easier.
thanks dude
Black powder makes a great salt load!
Can you use a normal shotshell for this like one that used to have smokeless powder
Jed I Knight has a great video on how to load black powder shot shells with a loader in quantity. I highly recommend checking it out: ua-cam.com/video/mXHpMoBQceY/v-deo.html
I like the way you show in here, but I can’t find any thing like that any were else.
Plastic wads are forbidden at my club.
Pink: Cos a man's powder measure and his wad punch should match.
Is the primer different to accommodate burn speed of the powder?