I used to be a race engineer for one of these cars back in ~2009 and did some extensive work on them. You’re making a good choice with the fuel cell. The original bladder had some of the nipples in bad positions that caused them to crack and leak fuel leading to fires. Our car was on fire twice before we figured this out. Feel free to reach out with any questions you may have. These cars are seriously fast, but also stunningly unreliable.
@@steveindorset they are in a constant state of disassembly. We nut and bolted the entire car after each session and would usually find something had backed off. We’ve had the bolt for the lower pickup point in the rear upright shear while driving, taking out the whole corner. The center locks are a pain to keep tight so wheels would come loose. The heat in the engine bay kills electronics and batteries. So there isn’t anything in particular that goes wrong, you just need to stay on top of it with an extensive checklist. And 2 people to support the car. Edit. Forgot the improvements. The wheel mating surfaces should be kept perfectly flat. We relocated the battery to the side pod. And then developed checklists like I mentioned above to keep an eye on everything
@@RaceMattC thank you very much Matt. That’s really awesome of you. So basically then I just need to get a couple of obsessive compulsive types to spanner and I just turn up and drive! Cool! 😎👌
@@RaceMattCdid you not just drill and wire the nuts & bolts? This is standard in a lot of motorcycle racing for any bolts that have the chance of coming loose.
CAUTION!! i Just discovered you channel. I hope it's not too late. Many years ago I replaced my fuel cell in the off season. Some of the many minor task that I preformed over the winter here in Ohio. After replacing the seat, painting etc. I removed and replaced the original fuel cell.The car sat until spring with no more thought given to the non suspension parts of the car. in the late spring we took my newly refurbished car to the track for the first weekend outing. During the very first practice session (first hard right hander of the very first lap) my car burst into flames which destroyed some of the fiberglass body work, drained the fire bottle, burned my fire suit and sent me to the hospital with 1st and 2nd degree burns. Several weeks later after I had healed and was in the process of rebuilding, I discovered that there was a one-way valve in the fuel line to prevent leaking in case of over turning. I don't remember either removing or reinstalling the check valve, but ,like you, I removed the cell and reinserted in the new one several weeks later. I'm telling you this because no one mention the valve to me and I was too dumb to consider it. I went out the first session with a completely filled tank of fuel and half way through the first turn the gas spilled out of the incorrectly installed valve and onto the hot headers and puff...up in smoke. Also I was sitting in raw fuel on fire because there was no wall between my seat and my butt.. be careful and remember, 3 layers of nomex and long underwear my be fire resistant but its no heat resistant. you can get plenty hot between the time you pull the fire bottle and get out and roll around in the grass. good luck
Thanks for the warning, and I'm sorry that happened to you. I've had the roll over vent replaced with a EFI fuel return fitting in the new cell, and I'll be using the existing vent which goes to the back of the car. I have a five nozzle fire suppression system too so hopefully everything is covered. If not, the lookbog inspector will be checking over the car.
You will need to build a bulkhead inbetween the fuel cell and the cockpit its a no no to have it in the cockpit area (Think fire wall). With the different cell you will have to make a filling neck that leeds backwards as filling the tank where you will be sitting later is probably not best. Also having the battery and fire bottle right next to the fuel cell probably not the greatest idea most F1000/F2000/FF cars have those 2 items located under your knees.
@@chuck1622: Things have come a long way... I believe that in the early monocoque F1 cars the driver was surrounded by fuel; behind the seat, and in the side cavities. I don't think they originally had flexible fuel cells. Apart from the obvious fire risk, I recall drivers complaining of skin burns from exposure to raw fuel in the cockpit.
Reynard FF2000’s had the fuel tank cover as a seat back, with the indi seat cast over it for me who is also tall. Shorter drivers could have the seat mounted in the chassis.
Your videos helped me discover some wild motorsports in my country, some of which offer classes for new drivers so thank you so freaking much! I hope everything goes well with your project and you are able to drive this car soon!
Hi so I’ve heard a lot that when you drive for the first time you discover a lot of things that have to be changed to fit better or be accessible and all while driving. Maybe consider using one of the open session to do a shakedown as soon as you can run the car so you can see if the car is alright. I hope by that way you don’t have to undo something you’ve planned to do in the future or to better take in mind what criteria might influence you choice for placing something in the cockpit for example
I'm SO thankful I found this channel!! I've been watching for the past few months. I LOVE watching videos of people who are great at what they do. This is a great channel!!
Yes, very common. They are made to not burst in an accident. The metal can provides structure. All I need to do is keep the lines seperate to the cockpit.
Definitely a trap 🤣 I could imagine the relief of being able to fit in it. That would not have been a fun learning moment otherwise… i once bought a $350 helmet online but the sizing was different even though it was the same brand as I usually wear once and that was bad enough.
Have you raced in any series before? I race in Junior Sedans at speedway tracks, mainly in Victoria but I'm going to Grafton for the title this year. Seemed similar but because MA is affiliated with the FIA it's much more strict than Speedway Australia in my Hyundai Excel 😂 Edit: Make sure to put a sticker where the elec cutoff is and extinguisher :) Edit 2: that seatbelt looks like a belt that we use in speedway. I would go back and refund it and get the right type if possibe
Proper cool channel lad. Really enjoy listening to everything. I'd love to be able to do motosport but money is tough. Will u be doing a video where u buy new tires and spare parts? Because at the end of the day there gonna be important for u and also it will be pretty intresting in where u get them.
For mounting your harnesses please do not go with option 1 (using a bolt as a point for clipping in the harnesses). An M8 bolt is not designed to take much load perpendicular to the axis of the bolt’s shaft. What I mean by this is if you get into a crash the bolt has a HIGH chance of shearing and your harnesses will fail. A bolt such as an M8 bolt has to have the head bottomed out on whatever it is trying to hold, going through an 8 mm hole. This does not fit the description of what you are doing. The eyelets that Sparco sends with the harnesses and designed to give the harness a safe anchor. Use them even if it isn’t easy. Make sure they are tight and bottomed on the surface they are going into
For that reason I'm expecting them to say no. I have the nuts ready to weld in, the real answer I need from them is whether or not I'm allowed to do it myself.
Hi there just some thoughts on harness mounting it might be simpler to replace mounting tabs on new harness with non carabiner style with 8mm holes and use existing chassis mounts.These tabs are available from most harness manufacturers.
Pretty sure the standard harness eye bolts come in 7/16th or M10 so i think it's unlikely they'd allow you to run M8 bolts, especially in that configuration. Also, unsure what the regulations are, but you could possibly swap out the clip in plates on the harness to the bolt in style if that would work better in this situation.
Someday, and that day may never come, she will call upon you to do a service for her. But until that day, accept this justice as a gift on your racing day.
You should really get that car on a track asap. Just to know what you are working with. On trackdays you also get to meet other people that can help you out bigtime. Don't delay getting in the car!
Consider using a multi pole battery cut off switch, that also dumps your alternator to GND via a resistor (assuming even this formula car has an alternator), otherwise you’ll fry the diodes when the switch is pulled.
Hope the fuel cell has arrived Michael and progress is being made so your 2024 dream can be reality. If not do you have time for a quick update on what your sim set up is and which software you prefer? Happy New Year too!!
I've watched ALL your videos about your new race car. I can absolutely relate to so much you have experienced. I am very impressed by your talents and your methodical approach to buying and upgrading your new car. And I certainly can relate to your frustration in doing fiberglass body repairs. In my younger years, I decided to build a sports car from the ground up. I bought an old car to use as the basic chassis and totally disassembled it and rebuilt it from the ground up, including rebuilding the engine, chassis, and suspension. I purchased a fiberglass body to install on top of the rebuilt chassis, and that is where I learned about doing fiberglass repair work. I feel so bad that you got ripped off for $1000 for the fiberglass work you contracted out. That guy should be sued for sticking you with such a crappy "finished product". I too had never done any fiberglass repairs, but I soon learned that it is so much easier to repair fiberglass when spraying the repaired surface with 5 or 6 coats of sprayed lacquer. Lacquer dries in about 5 to 10 minutes, so it is easy to apply a half-dozen coats in a few hours. Also, unlike the cheap materials supplied in typical spray cans, the sprayed lacquer finish is so easy to buff out any drips or sags and then apply another few coats. I now swear that I'll never spray anything other than lacquer because it is so forgiving and produces a really beautiful rock-hard finish after you let it cure for 7 to 10 days. Sprayed lacquer is so easy to work with. If you ever have any more fiberglass damage to repair, buy yourself an inexpensive lacquer spray gun and watch a few videos on youtube to quickly learn how to use it. My entire spray gun outfit, including compressor was less than $200 -- a very reasonable price considering the amazing results it produces when spraying lacquer. You can also spray a clear coat on top of your white (or colored finish) to make your final fiberglass finish look like a shining mirror! Unlike using canned spray paint, the spray gun produces an 8" wide fan that really makes it easy to get a great result with no drips or sags as long as you keep the gun at least 8 - 9" away from your car. Besides the fiberglass car I built, I also owned an old Austin Healey sports car many many years ago. I loved it. It wasn't fast, but lots of fun to drive. I did lots of engine and mechanical work on it. It seemed the carburetors were in constant need of tweaking or cleaning. It was totaled when I was stopped at an intersection and I got hit by a guy traveling over 50 mph. That car ended up looking like an accordion, but thankfully, my injuries were minor. I'm very excited and anxious to see your first drive video for your new sports car. Keep up the great videos. They are GREAT! I'd love to have a sports car now, but unfortunately, those days are gone now for me. For everything there is a time and a season, and now my time is spent exploring new woodworking and gardening projects. Can't wait to see your next youtube video. Robert
If you haven't already, get your hands on the series of books by Carroll Smith, "Prepare to Win" etc. They are not cheap, but for a novice they will repay you abundantly.
I restored an old SCCA prototype car a few years ago, and had the same fuel cell issue you're having. If you haven't already ordered, I was able to get a completely custom cell built for my car from Pyrotect in the US for under $1000 (pre covid. Might be more, but not 7,500!). Might be a good place to check if you still are interested in a replacement for your original.
Speak with a proper race car (formula team) before making the seat. There's plenty of tricks around making it good and well. Also consider moving the fire extinguisher under your knees if possible. Makes for good leg support if you mould the front part of the seat around it. That's how it's done on most formula fords which chassis wise looks fairly similar.
Currently glued to this series.... Quick question, after you did the unwanted but wanted seat delete, did you find yourself with a more favourable and comfortable steering wheel position in relation to your seating position height wise? I like a wheel to be upper chest/almost neck height so that you utilise the shoulder and upper arm strength rather than fore arm and wrists.
Welding the nuts in the frame may be harder then you think. If the chassis is regular steel you won't have much trouble but if it's chromoly I would suggest going to a shop that specializes in it.
Absolutely do not weld your own harness mounts given your limited experience. I don't like just welding to a welded nut - the boss should go through the frame and be welded both sides. Nor do I like the eye bolts - they offset the point from the frame, giving it more leverage to tear your nut off.
With respect to welding nuts to the chassis for the belts etc I wouldn’t do it like that. I personally would make flanged (top hat) bushes that go through both sides of the chassis rails and then weld on both sides. It’s much safer
For your plan with the m8 bolts half way into the holes and then locktight/jam-nutted in place, they're going to fail way before their rating. How are you de-rating them for this? I'm not sure there's a reliable method for doing that, it's just not how bolts are intended to be used.
I believe you! At work we use eye bolts as lifting point for fixtures and machines we build and have the same problem, fortunately we usually have space to over dimension and take the ones 2 or 3 sizes bigger. I thought you in Australia have a wider selection available. By the way if the nut welding fails it may be an option to weld plates on ether side of the tube in the mounting position and drill a hole through them to put in the bolt. Yes adds weight but if all else fails... @@TTRacingYT
I might be too late but for the belts you should just put on the bolt on eye bolt onto the belts. You can pick up some of the 2in or 3in bolt on webbing brackets for not too much.
Can’t you return those eyeletted belts and get some proper single seater bolt in belts. Those eyelets are a pain, easier to remove perhaps, but I have never used them in a single seater.
I would definitely look into replacing the hardware on those belts. All the belts I've ever bought just have the hardware wrapped in, so you can take it off easily. It also looks like you could just wrap the shoulder belts right around the frame. That's definitely allowed in the series I race in, although my car is not a fancy open wheeled racer. I've also bought bolt down hardware for belts before from the belt manufacturer. You should see what accessories they have. They probably have something that would just work for your situation without a ton of need to modify anything.
That is certainly the easiest and safest way than some bodgy nuts welded on. I worked for a restraint manufacturer and one option on harnesses is wrapping the end around the frame, providing the approval for the belt allows it. The other option would be a top hat spacer with a 7/16 O.D. and clearance for the M8 bolt. If the karabiner were replaced for a plate with a plain hole, which the manufacturer should have as an option if asked, then it'll come with the same top hat spacer as it needs it so the anchor can rotate.
mosts fuel cells that use a bladder are fairly expensive even here in America. the fuel safe brand definitely has some good price points but they also have some that are not. considering you are basically sitting on the fuel cell, I wouldn't want to skimp too much on that particular part.
First of all great videos and keep up the amazing work , if i was you i would strip down the whole thing , and check EVERYTHING , keep in mind the welds, cause of the stress and flex some times they crack and search for corrosion under the car. Also check to re valve the suspension and grease the ball joints. Last thing the engine bay looks like it needs some arrangement cables etc. Hope these tips helps.
I have extensive experience working on a variety of racecars including a couple formula cars. Shoot me a message if you have any questions. There are two ways those seats are made. You are looking at the budget version with the expanding foam. There is also a system that uses vacuum to hold a bag of material before infusion with resin. This method is more premium because you can release the vacuum and adjust the material until you get a perfect result. The top formula teams will then 3d scan the seat to make a carbon mold. It wouldn't be particularly expensive with the equipment you have on hand, but there would be a fair bit of labor involved. Be careful of those Avons. They work good until your ambient temps get over 100F, then you will start having issues with blowouts. Just the nature of the beast.
I compared the bead vs foam method quite a bit and settled on the foam. I think if I was in a race shop with a few people on hand to get the positioning just right, the beads would be better. I was worried by my ability to get the right amount of vacuum in the bag when pulling it in and out of the car without losing the right shape. The foam should be much more forgiving for me, plus I can make some sections thick where needed.
@@TTRacingYT The foam method works fine, you only get one shot though. Probably best to have a couple people on hand to help prod the bag if needed. Its usually a 2-3 person job, counting the driver.
Awesome videos! Congratulations on the car :) I have bought a formula racecar with basicaly only rental gokart racing as a prior experience. It is called a formula predators pc010. Similar to yours in a way that its just a bunch of welded tubes with a motorcycle engine, its just that mine is way more basic with a rigid rear axle, the suspension in the front is not even independent. I bought it from a racing team that has just won a championship with it and sold it to move on to a formula renault. I did one test with them as we were picking the car up, it went very well. We brought it home, did a little test on an airfield runway, went well. Took it to the track and during the second lap when I was still warming up the tires, most likely a unibal in the front suspension broke and I spin off to the wall all of a sudden while going on a straight. I hit the wall twice, front wheel completely broken off, the rear with the axle all banged up... Took me around 4 months to fix it by myself. In the two years since, there were no major issues though. If I was to race with it, and not just do trackdays, I would most likely just hire a race team. As I watch people race these around here, what took me 4 months, the teams are capable of doing over night in between races. Not sure if its realistic to be your own mechanic while racing.
I don't think I would go through this, way too complicated and way too much red tape to get everything up to spec. Appreciate the videos though, hope you get to use the car soon.
First of all awesome video, Michael It’s very interesting to see the journey of you and your race car! But for the love of God, do something about these tires 0:12 , these look disgusting, even for used slicks
"You have permission from your better half." You put a ring on the correct woman!
Coming up to 20 years married.
@@TTRacingYTaw I love that! 🍻to many more!
I used to be a race engineer for one of these cars back in ~2009 and did some extensive work on them. You’re making a good choice with the fuel cell. The original bladder had some of the nipples in bad positions that caused them to crack and leak fuel leading to fires. Our car was on fire twice before we figured this out. Feel free to reach out with any questions you may have. These cars are seriously fast, but also stunningly unreliable.
I'm sure "stunningly unreliable" is just what he wanted to hear 🤣
What’s the things that are unreliable?? How could they be improved?
@@steveindorset they are in a constant state of disassembly. We nut and bolted the entire car after each session and would usually find something had backed off. We’ve had the bolt for the lower pickup point in the rear upright shear while driving, taking out the whole corner. The center locks are a pain to keep tight so wheels would come loose. The heat in the engine bay kills electronics and batteries. So there isn’t anything in particular that goes wrong, you just need to stay on top of it with an extensive checklist. And 2 people to support the car.
Edit. Forgot the improvements. The wheel mating surfaces should be kept perfectly flat. We relocated the battery to the side pod. And then developed checklists like I mentioned above to keep an eye on everything
@@RaceMattC thank you very much Matt. That’s really awesome of you.
So basically then I just need to get a couple of obsessive compulsive types to spanner and I just turn up and drive! Cool! 😎👌
@@RaceMattCdid you not just drill and wire the nuts & bolts? This is standard in a lot of motorcycle racing for any bolts that have the chance of coming loose.
They do say 'How do you make a small fortune in motor racing?' - Start with a large fortune 😂
... and quit before it's all gone. 😎
CAUTION!! i Just discovered you channel. I hope it's not too late. Many years ago I replaced my fuel cell in the off season. Some of the many minor task that I preformed over the winter here in Ohio. After replacing the seat, painting etc. I removed and replaced the original fuel cell.The car sat until spring with no more thought given to the non suspension parts of the car. in the late spring we took my newly refurbished car to the track for the first weekend outing. During the very first practice session (first hard right hander of the very first lap) my car burst into flames which destroyed some of the fiberglass body work, drained the fire bottle, burned my fire suit and sent me to the hospital with 1st and 2nd degree burns. Several weeks later after I had healed and was in the process of rebuilding, I discovered that there was a one-way valve in the fuel line to prevent leaking in case of over turning. I don't remember either removing or reinstalling the check valve, but ,like you, I removed the cell and reinserted in the new one several weeks later. I'm telling you this because no one mention the valve to me and I was too dumb to consider it. I went out the first session with a completely filled tank of fuel and half way through the first turn the gas spilled out of the incorrectly installed valve and onto the hot headers and puff...up in smoke. Also I was sitting in raw fuel on fire because there was no wall between my seat and my butt.. be careful and remember, 3 layers of nomex and long underwear my be fire resistant but its no heat resistant. you can get plenty hot between the time you pull the fire bottle and get out and roll around in the grass. good luck
Thanks for the warning, and I'm sorry that happened to you. I've had the roll over vent replaced with a EFI fuel return fitting in the new cell, and I'll be using the existing vent which goes to the back of the car. I have a five nozzle fire suppression system too so hopefully everything is covered. If not, the lookbog inspector will be checking over the car.
You will need to build a bulkhead inbetween the fuel cell and the cockpit its a no no to have it in the cockpit area (Think fire wall). With the different cell you will have to make a filling neck that leeds backwards as filling the tank where you will be sitting later is probably not best. Also having the battery and fire bottle right next to the fuel cell probably not the greatest idea most F1000/F2000/FF cars have those 2 items located under your knees.
Wouldn't the aluminium cover he mentioned work as a fire wall?
@SputnikRSS1 : Good insight... I am surprised the inspector did not offer recommendations on this.
I don’t know much about formula car safety, but when I saw him using the mock fuel cell like a backrest for his seat, I felt it wasn’t the best idea 😅
@@chuck1622: Things have come a long way... I believe that in the early monocoque F1 cars the driver was surrounded by fuel; behind the seat, and in the side cavities. I don't think they originally had flexible fuel cells. Apart from the obvious fire risk, I recall drivers complaining of skin burns from exposure to raw fuel in the cockpit.
Reynard FF2000’s had the fuel tank cover as a seat back, with the indi seat cast over it for me who is also tall. Shorter drivers could have the seat mounted in the chassis.
Your videos helped me discover some wild motorsports in my country, some of which offer classes for new drivers so thank you so freaking much!
I hope everything goes well with your project and you are able to drive this car soon!
Formula inter?
@@arturom9006 yep, and foruma vee too
Love to see the journey and progress you make! Please continue!!
Hi so I’ve heard a lot that when you drive for the first time you discover a lot of things that have to be changed to fit better or be accessible and all while driving. Maybe consider using one of the open session to do a shakedown as soon as you can run the car so you can see if the car is alright. I hope by that way you don’t have to undo something you’ve planned to do in the future or to better take in mind what criteria might influence you choice for placing something in the cockpit for example
"Is this a trap?", four words that are likely better off not asked! Definitely made me LMAO! Nice ending!
I'm SO thankful I found this channel!! I've been watching for the past few months. I LOVE watching videos of people who are great at what they do. This is a great channel!!
is it approved to have fuel cell as part of your seat?
Yes, very common. They are made to not burst in an accident. The metal can provides structure. All I need to do is keep the lines seperate to the cockpit.
@@TTRacingYT oh ok
Definitely a trap 🤣 I could imagine the relief of being able to fit in it. That would not have been a fun learning moment otherwise… i once bought a $350 helmet online but the sizing was different even though it was the same brand as I usually wear once and that was bad enough.
Have you raced in any series before? I race in Junior Sedans at speedway tracks, mainly in Victoria but I'm going to Grafton for the title this year.
Seemed similar but because MA is affiliated with the FIA it's much more strict than Speedway Australia in my Hyundai Excel 😂
Edit: Make sure to put a sticker where the elec cutoff is and extinguisher :)
Edit 2: that seatbelt looks like a belt that we use in speedway. I would go back and refund it and get the right type if possibe
Proper cool channel lad. Really enjoy listening to everything. I'd love to be able to do motosport but money is tough. Will u be doing a video where u buy new tires and spare parts? Because at the end of the day there gonna be important for u and also it will be pretty intresting in where u get them.
Planning to do a video with the motorsports tyre shop explaining everything like I did with the safety gear.
For mounting your harnesses please do not go with option 1 (using a bolt as a point for clipping in the harnesses). An M8 bolt is not designed to take much load perpendicular to the axis of the bolt’s shaft. What I mean by this is if you get into a crash the bolt has a HIGH chance of shearing and your harnesses will fail. A bolt such as an M8 bolt has to have the head bottomed out on whatever it is trying to hold, going through an 8 mm hole. This does not fit the description of what you are doing. The eyelets that Sparco sends with the harnesses and designed to give the harness a safe anchor. Use them even if it isn’t easy. Make sure they are tight and bottomed on the surface they are going into
For that reason I'm expecting them to say no. I have the nuts ready to weld in, the real answer I need from them is whether or not I'm allowed to do it myself.
Hi there just some thoughts on harness mounting it might be simpler to replace mounting tabs on new harness with non carabiner style with 8mm holes and use existing chassis mounts.These tabs are available from most harness manufacturers.
FYI fuel safe is owned by ATL
I love your channel ive literally watched every video they are kinda nice to watch
Pretty sure the standard harness eye bolts come in 7/16th or M10 so i think it's unlikely they'd allow you to run M8 bolts, especially in that configuration. Also, unsure what the regulations are, but you could possibly swap out the clip in plates on the harness to the bolt in style if that would work better in this situation.
Honestly, I commend you for sacrificing so much to do this, but it is a sacrifice I would never do.. God speed.
Someday, and that day may never come, she will call upon you to do a service for her. But until that day, accept this justice as a gift on your racing day.
LOL'd @ "the point of no turning back"
You should really get that car on a track asap. Just to know what you are working with. On trackdays you also get to meet other people that can help you out bigtime. Don't delay getting in the car!
That is now impossible until the new seat and fuel cell go in.
Consider using a multi pole battery cut off switch, that also dumps your alternator to GND via a resistor (assuming even this formula car has an alternator), otherwise you’ll fry the diodes when the switch is pulled.
Hope the fuel cell has arrived Michael and progress is being made so your 2024 dream can be reality. If not do you have time for a quick update on what your sim set up is and which software you prefer? Happy New Year too!!
Amazing series! Keep up the content it is really killer!
The car brand (Speads) is the factory owner's surname (Sapsed), but shuffled.
Didn't know that, thanks for sharing.
I've watched ALL your videos about your new race car. I can absolutely relate to so much you have experienced. I am very impressed by your talents and your methodical approach to buying and upgrading your new car. And I certainly can relate to your frustration in doing fiberglass body repairs. In my younger years, I decided to build a sports car from the ground up. I bought an old car to use as the basic chassis and totally disassembled it and rebuilt it from the ground up, including rebuilding the engine, chassis, and suspension. I purchased a fiberglass body to install on top of the rebuilt chassis, and that is where I learned about doing fiberglass repair work. I feel so bad that you got ripped off for $1000 for the fiberglass work you contracted out. That guy should be sued for sticking you with such a crappy "finished product". I too had never done any fiberglass repairs, but I soon learned that it is so much easier to repair fiberglass when spraying the repaired surface with 5 or 6 coats of sprayed lacquer. Lacquer dries in about 5 to 10 minutes, so it is easy to apply a half-dozen coats in a few hours. Also, unlike the cheap materials supplied in typical spray cans, the sprayed lacquer finish is so easy to buff out any drips or sags and then apply another few coats. I now swear that I'll never spray anything other than lacquer because it is so forgiving and produces a really beautiful rock-hard finish after you let it cure for 7 to 10 days. Sprayed lacquer is so easy to work with. If you ever have any more fiberglass damage to repair, buy yourself an inexpensive lacquer spray gun and watch a few videos on youtube to quickly learn how to use it. My entire spray gun outfit, including compressor was less than $200 -- a very reasonable price considering the amazing results it produces when spraying lacquer. You can also spray a clear coat on top of your white (or colored finish) to make your final fiberglass finish look like a shining mirror! Unlike using canned spray paint, the spray gun produces an 8" wide fan that really makes it easy to get a great result with no drips or sags as long as you keep the gun at least 8 - 9" away from your car. Besides the fiberglass car I built, I also owned an old Austin Healey sports car many many years ago. I loved it. It wasn't fast, but lots of fun to drive. I did lots of engine and mechanical work on it. It seemed the carburetors were in constant need of tweaking or cleaning. It was totaled when I was stopped at an intersection and I got hit by a guy traveling over 50 mph. That car ended up looking like an accordion, but thankfully, my injuries were minor. I'm very excited and anxious to see your first drive video for your new sports car. Keep up the great videos. They are GREAT! I'd love to have a sports car now, but unfortunately, those days are gone now for me. For everything there is a time and a season, and now my time is spent exploring new woodworking and gardening projects. Can't wait to see your next youtube video. Robert
If you haven't already, get your hands on the series of books by Carroll Smith, "Prepare to Win" etc. They are not cheap, but for a novice they will repay you abundantly.
I restored an old SCCA prototype car a few years ago, and had the same fuel cell issue you're having. If you haven't already ordered, I was able to get a completely custom cell built for my car from Pyrotect in the US for under $1000 (pre covid. Might be more, but not 7,500!). Might be a good place to check if you still are interested in a replacement for your original.
Just had a look and they don't have anything wedge shaped like I need. Thanks for the suggestion.
@@TTRacingYT Yeah, I sent them a CAD drawing like what you put together, and they made exactly to my spec. It wasn't something off the shelf.
Wifey…hahaha!
Sounds like a keeper to me!
🤜🏼🤛🏼😎🍀🇦🇺
Speak with a proper race car (formula team) before making the seat. There's plenty of tricks around making it good and well. Also consider moving the fire extinguisher under your knees if possible. Makes for good leg support if you mould the front part of the seat around it. That's how it's done on most formula fords which chassis wise looks fairly similar.
You could mount the fire bottle under your legs/ knees? Just a thought. Keep up the good work. Great vids. 👍🥃🇦🇺
Currently glued to this series.... Quick question, after you did the unwanted but wanted seat delete, did you find yourself with a more favourable and comfortable steering wheel position in relation to your seating position height wise? I like a wheel to be upper chest/almost neck height so that you utilise the shoulder and upper arm strength rather than fore arm and wrists.
Welding the nuts in the frame may be harder then you think. If the chassis is regular steel you won't have much trouble but if it's chromoly I would suggest going to a shop that specializes in it.
Absolutely do not weld your own harness mounts given your limited experience. I don't like just welding to a welded nut - the boss should go through the frame and be welded both sides. Nor do I like the eye bolts - they offset the point from the frame, giving it more leverage to tear your nut off.
With respect to welding nuts to the chassis for the belts etc I wouldn’t do it like that. I personally would make flanged (top hat) bushes that go through both sides of the chassis rails and then weld on both sides. It’s much safer
I look forward to these videos and always enjoy them. Thank you so much for bringing us on this journey.
Hi! i have been enjoying this channel a lot. As for the strap mounting have you considered buying M8 eye bolts?
Nothing available rated to the required strength. I looked, trust me.
For your plan with the m8 bolts half way into the holes and then locktight/jam-nutted in place, they're going to fail way before their rating. How are you de-rating them for this?
I'm not sure there's a reliable method for doing that, it's just not how bolts are intended to be used.
I believe you! At work we use eye bolts as lifting point for fixtures and machines we build and have the same problem, fortunately we usually have space to over dimension and take the ones 2 or 3 sizes bigger. I thought you in Australia have a wider selection available. By the way if the nut welding fails it may be an option to weld plates on ether side of the tube in the mounting position and drill a hole through them to put in the bolt. Yes adds weight but if all else fails... @@TTRacingYT
I might be too late but for the belts you should just put on the bolt on eye bolt onto the belts. You can pick up some of the 2in or 3in bolt on webbing brackets for not too much.
Can’t you return those eyeletted belts and get some proper single seater bolt in belts.
Those eyelets are a pain, easier to remove perhaps, but I have never used them in a single seater.
Amazing dedication! I would not be able to be this patient, having to do al these workarounds! 😅
Wife is patiently waiting to ask for that beach house 🤣
Great insight on getting started with such a project.
I would definitely look into replacing the hardware on those belts. All the belts I've ever bought just have the hardware wrapped in, so you can take it off easily. It also looks like you could just wrap the shoulder belts right around the frame. That's definitely allowed in the series I race in, although my car is not a fancy open wheeled racer. I've also bought bolt down hardware for belts before from the belt manufacturer. You should see what accessories they have. They probably have something that would just work for your situation without a ton of need to modify anything.
That is certainly the easiest and safest way than some bodgy nuts welded on. I worked for a restraint manufacturer and one option on harnesses is wrapping the end around the frame, providing the approval for the belt allows it.
The other option would be a top hat spacer with a 7/16 O.D. and clearance for the M8 bolt. If the karabiner were replaced for a plate with a plain hole, which the manufacturer should have as an option if asked, then it'll come with the same top hat spacer as it needs it so the anchor can rotate.
Your head being lower helps with airflow to the engine as well.
Glad I found this channel. Can’t wait to see footage of this on the track mate!
mosts fuel cells that use a bladder are fairly expensive even here in America. the fuel safe brand definitely has some good price points but they also have some that are not. considering you are basically sitting on the fuel cell, I wouldn't want to skimp too much on that particular part.
It has the FIA certification I need and then the aluminium can around that. It's as safe as I can do it I think.
“Wifey? Is this a trap?” 😳😂😂😂😎👍🏻
Super interesting thank you !
Could you drill & tap the M8 threaded nuts to 7/16" for the harness?
Too bigger difference in diameter. Won't be enough material left.
Very interesting !!! Thanks to share !
First of all great videos and keep up the amazing work , if i was you i would strip down the whole thing , and check EVERYTHING , keep in mind the welds, cause of the stress and flex some times they crack and search for corrosion under the car. Also check to re valve the suspension and grease the ball joints. Last thing the engine bay looks like it needs some arrangement cables etc.
Hope these tips helps.
5800 Aussie dollar
I have extensive experience working on a variety of racecars including a couple formula cars. Shoot me a message if you have any questions.
There are two ways those seats are made. You are looking at the budget version with the expanding foam. There is also a system that uses vacuum to hold a bag of material before infusion with resin. This method is more premium because you can release the vacuum and adjust the material until you get a perfect result.
The top formula teams will then 3d scan the seat to make a carbon mold. It wouldn't be particularly expensive with the equipment you have on hand, but there would be a fair bit of labor involved.
Be careful of those Avons. They work good until your ambient temps get over 100F, then you will start having issues with blowouts. Just the nature of the beast.
I compared the bead vs foam method quite a bit and settled on the foam. I think if I was in a race shop with a few people on hand to get the positioning just right, the beads would be better. I was worried by my ability to get the right amount of vacuum in the bag when pulling it in and out of the car without losing the right shape. The foam should be much more forgiving for me, plus I can make some sections thick where needed.
@@TTRacingYT The foam method works fine, you only get one shot though. Probably best to have a couple people on hand to help prod the bag if needed. Its usually a 2-3 person job, counting the driver.
Don't forget to operate the pedals while allowing the foam to set. @@TTRacingYT
Awesome videos! Congratulations on the car :) I have bought a formula racecar with basicaly only rental gokart racing as a prior experience. It is called a formula predators pc010. Similar to yours in a way that its just a bunch of welded tubes with a motorcycle engine, its just that mine is way more basic with a rigid rear axle, the suspension in the front is not even independent. I bought it from a racing team that has just won a championship with it and sold it to move on to a formula renault. I did one test with them as we were picking the car up, it went very well. We brought it home, did a little test on an airfield runway, went well. Took it to the track and during the second lap when I was still warming up the tires, most likely a unibal in the front suspension broke and I spin off to the wall all of a sudden while going on a straight. I hit the wall twice, front wheel completely broken off, the rear with the axle all banged up... Took me around 4 months to fix it by myself. In the two years since, there were no major issues though. If I was to race with it, and not just do trackdays, I would most likely just hire a race team. As I watch people race these around here, what took me 4 months, the teams are capable of doing over night in between races. Not sure if its realistic to be your own mechanic while racing.
one of my favorite series of videos! thanks for being so thorough with your explanations. learning so much every time you post. cheers!
good to hear that MA finally got back to you. The way forward sounds quite feasible, keep on pressing on!
I really like that you make the whole process clear to follow and understand. I can easily feel enthusiastic about every little success you have. :)
I just watched all your videos and I love them. It’s super interesting and I can’t wait to see you in track!
you can do it
Haha funny ending
Lets GOOO!
Another great video. Very much enjoying your journey and can't wait to see the car in action. Keep up the good work :)
A monumental task! I admire your work ethic!
Since a lot of objects are dated, how long do the new parts last?
New fuel cell is 5 years, but can be recertified to keep extending the date up to a maximum of 15 years.
@TTRacingYT ahh I see, that's a decent lifespan if you manage to recertify it.
This is such a fantastic series! Thanks for bringing us along for the ride.
I don't think I would go through this, way too complicated and way too much red tape to get everything up to spec. Appreciate the videos though, hope you get to use the car soon.
$1700?
I wish!
Keep it going!
Another incredibly interesting video!! I am absolutely loving watching your journey to going racing!
Best wishes from Leicestershire, UK
First of all awesome video, Michael
It’s very interesting to see the journey of you and your race car!
But for the love of God, do something about these tires 0:12 , these look disgusting, even for used slicks
"Is this a trap?"
I felt the same way when mine said I could race motorcycles lol