DeWalt 788 Scroll Saw Service UPDATE!
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- Опубліковано 28 сер 2024
- Four years ago, Bob Brokaw posted a 4 part series on servicing the DeWalt 788 scroll saw. This video covers lessons learned and fine points since the earlier video. Updated parts reference located at: (Press "SHOW MORE" below to expand.)
Bearings:
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Exploded views:
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Recorded before a live audience 6/05/2017
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Music licensed to Gwinnett Woodworkers Association by Pond5.com item #26177787 "Holiday Acoustic Guitar".
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*This is my second WEN tool and they are both great **MyBest.Tools** I needed to do some trim work around the house and needed a scroll saw for the intricate work. No complaints so far.*
Thank you so very much for sharing this presentation. It will prove invaluable.
Mine has been running like a champ for around 12-15 yrs I think, but if it ever acts up, I'll revisit your maintenance tips here.
Great video.
THANK YOU interesting and abundant explanation. I was seeking this info.
Is it okay to use 286346-00 instead of the DW788 carbon brush? Where can I buy this? I would be happy if you could let me know.
New to scrolling and am researching my first scroll saw. Was planning on a more expensive saw but now that these videos have provided so much technical support I plan on buying the DeWalt 788. Question: Do you recommend taking it apart enough to lubricate it prior to first use, as a preventative measure? I should think that doing that would greatly extend the life of the machine.
Although I doubt anyone can help me...... here's the problem. I isolated the problem on my DW788. It was the large, center (double HK1412) bearings on the rocker bar assy. The sleeve insert showed the exact same wear as the one on Bob Brokaw's 4th video. How do I take out the set of two HK1412 bearings and replace them, and where do I get the proper replacement sleeve? I looked at ordering a new rocker assy. with the bearings in it and sleeve provided, BUT it doesn't come wigth the connector rod assy attached. I can not get my connector rod assy off my rocker assy. , as it is permanently attached (even after removing the screw with double nuts. So, in short, I've isolated the problem but can not do anything about it.
The most recent version of this lecture shows how to get the connector rod assembly out. In this one he mentions chamfering the rocker to get it in and out, but in the latest one he’s got a new (better?) method. He set the rocker arm down on a wood vise with the connector rod hanging down below, and stuck a big, long awl in the space next to the connector, then pounded the awl or pick or whatever it was with a hammer a couple of times to get it down just far enough to spread the sides of the rocker assembly so the connector rod assembly would come out. The rocker is made of malleable aluminum so it was able to spread a bit for that operation. I believe the video where you can see this was posted about a year after this one. I know this comment is 6 months after your post, so I hope you found help elsewhere or just set it aside to deal with later 😂
How often are motor brushes recommended to be checked/replaced?
I need a dust collector for this saw got any suggestions?
so many moving parts.. more the wear & tear why make a simple cutting machine so complex.... the best scroll saw after I did use some other brands is the Hegner.. simply the best
Hefner and RBI Hawk are the to best. Both last forever. Hawk a little easier to change the blade.
Is the Delta 1.3 amp 20" scroll saw the same except the Delta upper raise up and locks?
The Delta 40-690 is affectionately known in my area as the "Gray DeWalt". When you carefully examine the parts diagrams of the Delta 40-690 and the DeWalt 788 you will only find a few different part numbers and those differences are only due to paint color and labels. The rest of the parts are interchangeable. The Delta 40-694 was a bit more radical design difference that was born out of a desperation move by Delta to head off a market place death blow as Delta, DeWalt, and Porter Cable were being divided up during the short lived Black and Decker acquisition. During that acquisition period, Delta was dropped by most of the big box retailers and was dealt a second blow by the reputation that you couldn't get parts for Delta products. The eventual winner was the original DeWalt now owed by Stanley. The few people I know of that bought a 40-694 were generally dissatisfied with them and usually went on to other products.
Gwinnett Woodworkers has the Delta 40-694 been straightened out and better now from the Delta 40-694? I see a lot of great reviews from owners on the Delta 40-694. I mean the Delta and DeWalt are basically the same except color scheme so I can’t understand paying more for the DeWalt but it does appear the Delta has updated a bit more with the 40-694 but the older 40-690 is directly the same. If buying the Delta I assume it would be best to open up and tighten everything up and grease everything.
I'm having two problems with my Dewalt 788:
1. The blade tension lever always wants to slip from #5 (full tension) down to #3 or 2. I took it apart and tried to tighten the screw on the tensioner, etc. but that did not help.
2. The motor does not always start. I have to push the start switch multiple times and sometimes it does not start at all til I try again later.
My machine has not been used a lot. I make repro pieces for museums and historic sites, and the scrollsaw is only occasionally used.
Thank you,
--Wm. F. Brown
Forest, VA
www.LineAndBerry.com
1. There is supposed to be a wavy washer under the head of the tensioner cam screw (#52). Hopefully it is still present. Before threading #52 into the tension cam lid, put some blue loctite on the threads, tighten the screw against the wavy washer, but make sure you can still move the #26 lever. Let the loctite set up overnight and your tensioner should now hold.
2. The starting issue sounds like one or more open windings in the motor. Some people find a work around to be putting a screwdriver into the end of the motor to rotate the armature off of the bad winding before activating the switch. The more drastic solution is a new motor. I found some last year through an ebay vendor in Puerto Rico. They turned out to be genuine DeWalt parts - just surplus. He may still have more.
The San Juan PR vendor still has the motors. Search DW788 scroll saw motor. They are $125 (less that half of DeWalt's price.)
Thanks so much for both replies. This is very helpful. The video was packed with really great info as well.
--Wm. Brown
www.LineAndBerry.com
Replace the wimpy/dark, power sucking bulb w/ a MUCH BRIGHTER LED bulb! HERE IS the LED I found on amazon: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ASFKI54/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Thanks for the information. A few of us have changed our bulbs. I'm not sure what their source was. Now the link will be included.
18:30 Difference between type 1 and type 2
43:30 Explanation of rocker ass'y connection
47:05 Derek >:(
So DeWalt 1 made in Canada and it's good and the DeWalt 2 Made in Taiwan and it sucks
So to be thrifty and even before using a brand new Dewalt scroll machine, the smartest thing a person should do is dismantle everything and properly grease everything. Well I have no problem with that procedure as I'm thinking of purchasing this Dewalt scroll saw. I pretty much do that to everything I buy. With todays throw-away market it's impossible to buy anything made to last, and a penny's worth of grease can extend a persons processions well past his own lifetime. Besides its the best way to understand what makes it tick.
i just bought this saw and i do woodworking,,i built cabients ,,furniture,,,and have been doing it for years and love it,,,,but i can honestly say,,,i hate this scroll saw,,well not just this one but any,,,,i figure if it cant be cut with a band saw,,,you dont need it,,llol,,it takes forever to get the blade on it,,it breaks reguardless of how much tension is on it,,or bends,,,plus you cannot turn the material and follow the lines,,,,,waste of money,,,