This video saved my bacon today. I got hung up on rear rotors not knowing that emergency brake pads would prevent my rear rotors from coming off. I purchased bolts like @nfrj from Tacoma Screw to force rotor off. Big oops! The bolts are effective and tore the left side emergency brake clip component completely out! Thank you for explaining at 9:57 how to remove rubber gromet and how to release the emergency brake pads.
I replaced the rear pads and rotors today on my 2016 Highlander. It has 67960 miles and the pads were down to 2 mm. I could have got by without the new rotors but they are just like new now. These rotors have two threaded holes for easily removing them. I use a bolt that has a 12 mm head and turn it in until it forces the rotor from the hub. You don't need to retract those brake shoes, they're fine.
Don’t over grease the calliper slide pins . A very thin coat of SILICONE brake grease. Anything else will dissolve the rubber boots on the pin causing water to get in and the slide pin with the rubber “ O ring “ on it that o ring will swell causing the slide pin to seize. Don’t put grease on the end of the slide pin and take a minute to clean out the inside of the rubber boot and the slide pin’s hole. Put new grease on a cleaned pin, insert it into the hole while twisting it around to a bit. That rubber grommet on the emerg brake hub is important so don’t lose it. I check that adjustment wheel and back it off until the rotor spins easily then tighten it up until it “ just starts “ to drag a bit. The calliper slide pin bolts are only supposed to be torqued to 25-26 lb feet. You put about 38-40 on there. Use some blue ( medium) thread locker on those bolts. I actually broke one of those bolts off the first time I tightened it.
Great video! I noticed extreme wear on the rear brakes as well of our 2018 Highlander. I purchased Akebonos brake pads. Do you mind sharing the rotors you purchased from Rock Auto? TIA!
I also have a 2018 Highlander with starting the same sound on the same rear wheel with 96k miles. Must be the way the system is made that particular pad wears out first.
PSA : owners of late model T Highlanders with electronic lift gate. Don't let strangers open the rear liftgate. Invariably, they don't know it's powered nor do they know where the trigger button is. So they can stress the two proprietary electronic lift arms that handle opening & closing. Well, just two years out from our warranty period, the electronic lift gate failed. I went looking for aftermarket electronic arms & found out they don't exist via retail auto supply stores. You have to go to a Stealership. In 2019, each arm is ~$600. It does not include installation.
I just teplaced both rear and front at 79500 miles. I didn't see that problem, mainly highway miles in Houston Texas. I notice the silicon grease on the pins was almost gone so i reaply such grease.
Interesting. Makes me wonder if the grease just didn't hold up. Ours has had a healthy mix of city and highway, getting ready to do fronts at a little over 53k
Did you ever figure out what caused the high wear level on that left rear outer brake pad? It's weird, I have the same issue on my 2015 Highlander. Maybe a warped rotor? Thanks for the video.
Is it cheaper to change your break pads from a mechanic than doing it at the Dealer? I’m just asking because Toyota is charging me over $650 to change both of my break pads in the front.
Weird, my 2019 Highlander is doing the exact same thing but on the passenger rear. It only has 38,000 miles. I’m curious to what the source of the problem is.
The fronts on my 2017 seized ( slide pins ) at under 30,000 miles. The rotors were okay but the pads were changed out by Toyota. The rear pads and rotors were replaced at about 58,000 miles. I just did the front rotors, pads and calliper s myself 2 weeks ago at 75,000 miles. I check, clean and grease the slide pins as well as the pads about every 6-8 months. 25% brake life left is time to change them. Don’t go under 20%. Yes I’ve had several times where one pad wore down first and the other one looked almost new. I saw a vid from another guy and one of the commenters said if it’s the outside pad it’s the calliper slide pin is seized and the inside pad I can’t remember what causes that.
They got plenty of grease when I did the job. Had someone else say theirs did the same thing on the other side. Makes me wonder if they weren't greased right from the factory
@@ThatCarVlogChannel I’ve been doing brakes for the better part of 20 years, along with all my own vehicle maintenance. The silicone grease doesn’t last long by it’s natural properties. But if you use anything else you risk ruining the rubber boot that protects it. So it’s always good practice to lube the pins every time you change the pads. Cheers!
Caliper bolts need the PROPER amount of grease spread along the shaft.. You can put too much. The right amount of grease will allow you to fully depress the bolt. When you remove your hand the bolt will be stationary. If the bolt travels outward after removing your hand, you have too much.
This video saved my bacon today. I got hung up on rear rotors not knowing that emergency brake pads would prevent my rear rotors from coming off. I purchased bolts like @nfrj from Tacoma Screw to force rotor off. Big oops! The bolts are effective and tore the left side emergency brake clip component completely out! Thank you for explaining at 9:57 how to remove rubber gromet and how to release the emergency brake pads.
I replaced the rear pads and rotors today on my 2016 Highlander. It has 67960 miles and the pads were down to 2 mm. I could have got by without the new rotors but they are just like new now. These rotors have two threaded holes for easily removing them. I use a bolt that has a 12 mm head and turn it in until it forces the rotor from the hub. You don't need to retract those brake shoes, they're fine.
Don’t over grease the calliper slide pins . A very thin coat of SILICONE brake grease. Anything else will dissolve the rubber boots on the pin causing water to get in and the slide pin with the rubber “ O ring “ on it that o ring will swell causing the slide pin to seize. Don’t put grease on the end of the slide pin and take a minute to clean out the inside of the rubber boot and the slide pin’s hole. Put new grease on a cleaned pin, insert it into the hole while twisting it around to a bit. That rubber grommet on the emerg brake hub is important so don’t lose it. I check that adjustment wheel and back it off until the rotor spins easily then tighten it up until it “ just starts “ to drag a bit. The calliper slide pin bolts are only supposed to be torqued to 25-26 lb feet. You put about 38-40 on there. Use some blue ( medium) thread locker on those bolts. I actually broke one of those bolts off the first time I tightened it.
Great video! I noticed extreme wear on the rear brakes as well of our 2018 Highlander. I purchased Akebonos brake pads. Do you mind sharing the rotors you purchased from Rock Auto? TIA!
I also have a 2018 Highlander with starting the same sound on the same rear wheel with 96k miles. Must be the way the system is made that particular pad wears out first.
PSA : owners of late model T Highlanders with electronic lift gate. Don't let strangers open the rear liftgate. Invariably, they don't know it's powered nor do they know where the trigger button is. So they can stress the two proprietary electronic lift arms that handle opening & closing.
Well, just two years out from our warranty period, the electronic lift gate failed. I went looking for aftermarket electronic arms & found out they don't exist via retail auto supply stores. You have to go to a Stealership. In 2019, each arm is ~$600. It does not include installation.
I just teplaced both rear and front at 79500 miles. I didn't see that problem, mainly highway miles in Houston Texas. I notice the silicon grease on the pins was almost gone so i reaply such grease.
Interesting. Makes me wonder if the grease just didn't hold up. Ours has had a healthy mix of city and highway, getting ready to do fronts at a little over 53k
Did you ever figure out what caused the high wear level on that left rear outer brake pad? It's weird, I have the same issue on my 2015 Highlander. Maybe a warped rotor? Thanks for the video.
Never did figure it out. It's staring to sound like just a highlander thing. Sadly the 2018 is gone now, so we'll see if it happens on our 2019
Hey genius, How about those brake shoes?
Will this be the same process for the hybrid version?
No
Does your 2018 Highlander ever jerk when transmission is changing gears?
Nah it's usually pretty smooth. If I have to accelerate pretty hard I might feel it a bit but otherwise it's pretty smooth
Yeah mine has a pretty good jerk when it shifts sometimes. Not all the time but still sucks. Thanks for replying
Is it cheaper to change your break pads from a mechanic than doing it at the Dealer? I’m just asking because Toyota is charging me over $650 to change both of my break pads in the front.
I wouldn't know first hand from doing it myself. I would check around tho, dealers are known to overcharge
@@ThatCarVlogChannel Thank you yea Toyota is charging me $650 to change my front breaks on my 2018 Toyota Highlander I just feel it’s a bit to much
Weird, my 2019 Highlander is doing the exact same thing but on the passenger rear. It only has 38,000 miles. I’m curious to what the source of the problem is.
That is strange. I've looked up common problems on these years and haven't found anything on that particular problem yet
The fronts on my 2017 seized ( slide pins ) at under 30,000 miles. The rotors were okay but the pads were changed out by Toyota. The rear pads and rotors were replaced at about 58,000 miles. I just did the front rotors, pads and calliper s myself 2 weeks ago at 75,000 miles. I check, clean and grease the slide pins as well as the pads about every 6-8 months. 25% brake life left is time to change them. Don’t go under 20%. Yes I’ve had several times where one pad wore down first and the other one looked almost new. I saw a vid from another guy and one of the commenters said if it’s the outside pad it’s the calliper slide pin is seized and the inside pad I can’t remember what causes that.
Those caliper pins need grease.
They got plenty of grease when I did the job. Had someone else say theirs did the same thing on the other side. Makes me wonder if they weren't greased right from the factory
@@ThatCarVlogChannel I’ve been doing brakes for the better part of 20 years, along with all my own vehicle maintenance. The silicone grease doesn’t last long by it’s natural properties. But if you use anything else you risk ruining the rubber boot that protects it. So it’s always good practice to lube the pins every time you change the pads. Cheers!
Caliper bolts need the PROPER amount of grease spread along the shaft.. You can put too much. The right amount of grease will allow you to fully depress the bolt. When you remove your hand the bolt will be stationary. If the bolt travels outward after removing your hand, you have too much.
I wouldn't put grease on the caliper bolt. I think you are talking about the slider pins. I hope😂