If you can find a good kit for the original Zenith, that's your best bet. I learned to drive on a 41 A! I collect die cast tractors, and have several A's in it. Love seeing the old red iron. Why are John Deere's painted green? So they can hide in the grass while the red tractors do the work! Where in Ohio are you at? Pataskala here!
Rev it up, wide open, warmed up, then turn the big main fuel adjusting screw IN until rough, then out til smooth, then 1/4 turn to 1/2 turn further out. (Mine is set at 1 turn open. Other advice has been to set it at 2 1/2 turns open for pulling implements.) Engine should rev up smoothly and evenly
I put a cheap replica carb on my cub due to the original carb being cracked. The carb ran well for a year than started doing the same thing your A carb is doing. Turned out to be a needle and seat problem. Ordered a rebuild kit with the correct style needle and seat and have not had a problem since.
The 6V battery is lots to start it. If you have gas and spark, it'll start even if it barely turns over; a 6V starts a W-9... and they barely turn over... Looks like might fit Chinese junk. Give the Marvel the ultrasonic tune up... But I just learned that just the ultrasonic alone isn't enough. With an H carb, I pulled the jets out and put it in the ultrasonic cleaner with a highly concentrated mix of water and Simple Green HD for an hour at 70C and put it together. The H ran just the same... and no matter how I adjusted it, it ran the same. I took the carb off again, pulled everything out of the float chamber, cleaned out all the ports with brake clean and blew everything out with compressed air... put it in the ultrasonic cleaner for half an hour... blew it out again and put it back in the ultrasonic for another half hour. Then blew it out and put it together and it ran just fine... Other than the needle and seat, most of the parts don't wear out but they do get dirty... If you can clean them properly, they will work again.
Running new Romanian injection pump on little MF 150. About 300 hrs on full rebuild of engine, no issues at all! Quite a bit cheaper than Wimers rebuild was why i took a chance. Had it been Chinese, ABSOLUTELY not!!
Have you adjusted the linkage from the governor to the carb? I bought one of those carbs for my super A and had to adjust the governor linkage to get mine to run right.
Just finished watching the whole video lol. I had exactly the same issues you have. Couldn't get it to idle and only ran at full throttle but was not getting the roms I should. The surging was outrageous. No matter what I did to adjust the carb I had no luck. I fought it for 3 days and came across something on the web about another one that was doin the same thing. Someone suggested adjusting the governor linkage and after I did that it smoothed out and I've been running it ever since.
I concur, it acts like an issue either with the float or the needle valve or both. Back in days of leaded gasoline it used to be easier to adjust them by sight and sound however with this new gas we used nowadays it wants to burn black even when it's supposed to be running lean but that one is running way too rich wish you the best!
I AM *NOT* A mekinik, but ''are you sure it has the right sizeNEEDLE valves inside there for ''this application'' ??? '' went thru head actually '' are the valves right in there??? installed UP SIDE DOWN or REVERSED MAYBE???'' the CLYMERS or wutever repair mag, many years ago, in the GOLDWING MANUAL for the GL1000s and GL1100s one time said something about the ''valves gettin switched around'' cuz of incorrect documentation, ''will run hard but idle not'' I remember... it was cuz the small one was trying to run the GO FAST and the big one was TOO BIG TO PROPERLY IDLE?? eh... when we had tthe 78 GOLDWING was a few years before 2002 (had the GL1100 for a few years, thousands of miles, then upgraded to a brand new 5 miles on the odomonitor 2002 GL1800 eh... I AM 69.69% SURE IT IS SOMETHING STUPID like wrong O RING in there or something and when HE DOES THE REBUILD it will be fine!!! :) 😁🙃😉
I put 2 of these junk china carbs on my cub and had the same problem as this.. shot the wad and bought the complete rebuild kit for the original IH carb and pitched the china junk and the cub is running good now ...Sorry to see you having this problem but glad to see someone else is having the same problem as I was having with the junk carbs ...
Those carbs are good! There's more to it than just turning mixture screws; the governor adjustment also plays into it. On my Farmall A 1940 that exact same carb required adjusting the governor rod 1/4 inch longer, then I could adjust the high and low jets just fine. It took iterations to find that sweet spot in the linkage until I could adjust with success. Now it runs like a champ!!
I put the same carb on my 1950 C and had the same issue. I even opened the high jet slightly, as it surged a lot. it ran very rich after that. Even with the oil bath off the intake, it surged at high throttle. I gave up, went back to the broken original one. The governor could indeed have been it! That linkage did seem short. Damn. 😢
I'm sure you'll find the governor/mix sweet spot Sean, its an iterative adjustment. Note that after I found the perfect sweet spot while it was unloaded, I have found that I had to turn the high speed mix 1/2 turn richer to allow sudden loads on the engine (sudden clutch pops loaded). Your mileage will vary, but when you find the combination that works you'll be singing the Chinese anthem. Well, maybe not.
@@FarmallFanatic yeah, so I’m gonna need that tractor. Haha. There’s a 1000 loader here in the puckies for $600. If it didn’t make the tractor steer like crap, I’d consider it. I got a nice set of frame weights for my 200.
@@FarmallFanatic my brother had a loader on that super C when it had a wide front on it. It brings new meaning to the words “Power Steering” as in it takes all your power to steer it.
Seems to be a float problem. Take the carb apart and check and clean it. You might be surprised what you might find. Buddy just got one for a different tractor an end up taking it apart and the float was installed wrong.
I usually rebuild the original carb from any tractor I aquire. That being said, I recently picked up a C that was sitting without a fuel cap. The carb was full of water but it cleaned up perfectly. Only issue is the fuel nozzle broke off. So, I put the Zenith from my Super C on to get it running. Ran like a top! Ordered the same Chinese carb as you did to get me by until the original is done. It acts EXACTLY the same. Surges like crazy and no amount of adjusting will make it run smooth. Go original or go home! 😂
I'm going to retract my previous statement. It was eating at me that it wouldn't run on that carb so I started tinkering and finally have it running smoothly. Once it was set enough to run on its own sputtering and spurting, I started by adjusting the governor bumper spring until it smoother out a bit. Be careful doing this since the fan and belts are right there! Then I adjusted the high and low until it smoothed out some more. Lastly I adjusted the timing by turning the distributor very slowly and it smoothed out perfectly. Now it's purring just fine! Make sure when you turn the high knob on the carb to do it very slowly. The sweet spot was really small and you can miss it easily. I'll still go back to the original tsx-520, but it's good to know this will work with some tinkering. Just don't expect plug and play with these clones.
Excellent video Farmall Fanitic :) have use carbs brands of Zenith type updraft one's and why ask my dad use one on 1950 Cockshutt COOP 40 on Buta 235 6 cylinder motor gas and plus 1968 McCormick International 105C combine with Farmall H basic 4 cylinders 202 Cubic Cm size gas motor had no problem only was when fuel filter need change when surge too and cure it ! Also the one think float sticking or fuel in let give to much fuel to hope tell also what happened to A problem was solved too! Also saying fuel caps have ever got one for Farmall tractor you own has fuel gauge type in cap from one got mail ?
I would avoid Chinese anything. American made is definitely better quality. The surging/loping makes me think governor, but that carb is probably bad. You got me my safety cap, so, thanks. I got mine pretty quickly too.
Governor surge may need to tighten the governor spring, if I rember on mine it's a bolt and jam nut on top of the governor housing. In my case the spring was broke. There is a good youtube video on adjusting the governor. I think the carb is fine
Well the governor is trying to compensate for the carburetor not working right. I've never had one single problem with this governor until I put this carburetor on
Come on "Farmall" , we both know there's only so many things that it can be why it won't run. I know this makes good content for your channel and I'm all about that, I just love seeing actual real people's UA-cam channels growing. But we all need to subscribe to the ghost of a Lucius clay. I can't stress that enough?
Idle circuit not working on the MIC carb. I think it's getting too much gas. No idle adjustment is the clue. Either the float is set too high or has a leak, or the gas is leaking by the needle valve. Either the valve is not seating properly or leaking by the threads for the seat. Some MS carbs will do that also, and the only cure is to change 'em out. When rebuilding, chase the little passage ways with a small wire. I use a wire pulled out of a wire brush. Too often the passage ways have obstructions that carb cleaner will blast right past and not clear the passage way on me and not solve the poor running. Using a wire will break up whatever is in there and then the carb cleaner stands a chance to push it out. You'll get her going and running like a top. Good Luck.
I've never had good luck with the real marvel carbs or the Chinese clones of them. I have a Chinese zenith clone on one of my super As and it caused some surging, but I was able to get it stabilized. Other than that it did just as good as the stock zenith on my other super A. Just my two cents, have a good one!
The carb on my B leaks like crazy, but the rebuild kit is the same $ as a new carb on Amazon, my question is, even if it doesn't work, could I use the parts from the cheap carb to rebuild the old one or do they vary too much?
Now I know to stay away from Chinese carburetors. Thanks for being the guinnypig. I've always just overhauled my existing carb. Just to make sure....did you make sure you have good gas flow?
The blades are supposed to be like that because if you had some solid your blows gearbox right now they're made like that and I did not read the comments for somebody else probably said the same thing centrifical force and that's the way they're supposed to be
Did Zenith make a five bolt bowl carb or is this a knock off ? I’m having the same problem. I ordered a rebuild kit to try that but I’m at a loss. All of the jets are clean and ports are clear. The Venturi fits kinda sloppy.
Hello Gino your getting enough fuel. If you adjusting carb with choke on or half on your wasting time to adjust it. Maybe carb is dirty hope you have running now. Thanks video
16:16 shouldn't that have made more of a DIFFEREANCE when you put the ''air cleaner'' upside down and ''starved the air'' ???? seems that should have done something..... deep in my head it said *THERE YA GO* !!! when you put it upseid down on the air intake and it didn't REALLY DO ANYTHING.... like prove too much air, or AIR IS ISSUE ??? I'm not a mechanic this lifetime, but I werked on stuff in previous ones lol I have SEEN MANY peeps TUNE BY HEAR'n the changeing.... just never had great luck when *I* HADDA DO IT once or twice, ...callen in the experts for a PHONE A FRIEND was juse how both those times went... lol
I bought a Chinese carb once. It sits on the shelf in the oem carb box I replaced it with. I learned my lesson, buy oem or equivalent US products whenever I can. That chynuh carb never would run right. A lot if wasted time messing with chynuh junk.
Ive had nothing but issues with the 2 I got from Amazon. I rebuilt the original on the 43 H now runs great and just rebuilt the original Zenith for the 49 Super A which will be going back on this week. Now we know why they are only $35 lol Live and learn right! All joking aside though your A is acting exactly to a T how mine was acting with that card. Idle screws hardly did anything, governor surge constantly but I couldn't get full throttle.
Is it an American carb made in China for cheap then sold back at a price as if it was made in America or a Chinese developed carb like the original for tractors to replace the original
@@FarmallFanatic well that sucks. Thought maybe just a simple cleaning would do. I bought one 4 or maybe 5 years ago. We don't use the tractor a pile but it seems to run well so far. Take care
No way I would buy a China carburetor. I have a few used carbs for rebuilding. Problem is the parts available aren't always the best but still better than the knock off new carburetor
I think I would rebuild the old carb, and throw that chinese carb on the rubbish heap, and check the gas line and flow just for peace of mind. Double D.
First thought is don't bastardize a farmall with chines crap. May as well have a john deer at that point. Second thought take a small jewelers file to the jets. May be to small.
Exactly the problems I had with my Chinese carburettor adjustment screws made no difference at all 🙄🤬🤬
Yup...zero
@@FarmallFanatic 9⁹
@@FarmallFanatic does a American company make replacement carburetors for the IH-A ?
I know Farmer Bob's does
If you can find a good kit for the original Zenith, that's your best bet. I learned to drive on a 41 A! I collect die cast tractors, and have several A's in it. Love seeing the old red iron. Why are John Deere's painted green? So they can hide in the grass while the red tractors do the work! Where in Ohio are you at? Pataskala here!
I'm in Pennsylvania.. the show was across the border near Andover
Rev it up, wide open, warmed up, then turn the big main fuel adjusting screw IN until rough, then out til smooth, then 1/4 turn to 1/2 turn further out. (Mine is set at 1 turn open. Other advice has been to set it at 2 1/2 turns open for pulling implements.) Engine should rev up smoothly and evenly
I had 2 Chinese carbs. They worked ok. Probably a crap shoot if you get a good one.
I put a cheap replica carb on my cub due to the original carb being cracked. The carb ran well for a year than started doing the same thing your A carb is doing. Turned out to be a needle and seat problem. Ordered a rebuild kit with the correct style needle and seat and have not had a problem since.
Sorry you had to deal with the carb issue. You should be driving and enjoying what appears to be a nice day.
I'll get it straightened out
The 6V battery is lots to start it. If you have gas and spark, it'll start even if it barely turns over; a 6V starts a W-9... and they barely turn over... Looks like might fit Chinese junk. Give the Marvel the ultrasonic tune up... But I just learned that just the ultrasonic alone isn't enough. With an H carb, I pulled the jets out and put it in the ultrasonic cleaner with a highly concentrated mix of water and Simple Green HD for an hour at 70C and put it together. The H ran just the same... and no matter how I adjusted it, it ran the same. I took the carb off again, pulled everything out of the float chamber, cleaned out all the ports with brake clean and blew everything out with compressed air... put it in the ultrasonic cleaner for half an hour... blew it out again and put it back in the ultrasonic for another half hour. Then blew it out and put it together and it ran just fine... Other than the needle and seat, most of the parts don't wear out but they do get dirty... If you can clean them properly, they will work again.
Running new Romanian injection pump on little MF 150. About 300 hrs on full rebuild of engine, no issues at all! Quite a bit cheaper than Wimers rebuild was why i took a chance. Had it been Chinese, ABSOLUTELY not!!
Have you adjusted the linkage from the governor to the carb? I bought one of those carbs for my super A and had to adjust the governor linkage to get mine to run right.
Just finished watching the whole video lol. I had exactly the same issues you have. Couldn't get it to idle and only ran at full throttle but was not getting the roms I should. The surging was outrageous. No matter what I did to adjust the carb I had no luck. I fought it for 3 days and came across something on the web about another one that was doin the same thing. Someone suggested adjusting the governor linkage and after I did that it smoothed out and I've been running it ever since.
I concur, it acts like an issue either with the float or the needle valve or both. Back in days of leaded gasoline it used to be easier to adjust them by sight and sound however with this new gas we used nowadays it wants to burn black even when it's supposed to be running lean but that one is running way too rich wish you the best!
I AM *NOT* A mekinik, but ''are you sure it has the right sizeNEEDLE valves inside there for ''this application'' ??? ''
went thru head actually
'' are the valves right in there??? installed UP SIDE DOWN or REVERSED MAYBE???''
the CLYMERS or wutever repair mag, many years ago, in the GOLDWING MANUAL for the GL1000s and GL1100s one time said something about the ''valves gettin switched around'' cuz of incorrect documentation, ''will run hard but idle not'' I remember... it was cuz the small one was trying to run the GO FAST and the big one was TOO BIG TO PROPERLY IDLE?? eh... when we had tthe 78 GOLDWING was a few years before 2002 (had the GL1100 for a few years, thousands of miles, then upgraded to a brand new 5 miles on the odomonitor 2002 GL1800 eh... I AM 69.69% SURE IT IS SOMETHING STUPID like wrong O RING in there or something and when HE DOES THE REBUILD it will be fine!!! :)
😁🙃😉
I put 2 of these junk china carbs on my cub and had the same problem as this.. shot the wad and bought the complete rebuild kit for the original IH carb and pitched the china junk and the cub is running good now ...Sorry to see you having this problem but glad to see someone else is having the same problem as I was having with the junk carbs ...
Glad I could be on the team 😅
Those carbs are good! There's more to it than just turning mixture screws; the governor adjustment also plays into it. On my Farmall A 1940 that exact same carb required adjusting the governor rod 1/4 inch longer, then I could adjust the high and low jets just fine. It took iterations to find that sweet spot in the linkage until I could adjust with success. Now it runs like a champ!!
I believe that
I put the same carb on my 1950 C and had the same issue. I even opened the high jet slightly, as it surged a lot. it ran very rich after that. Even with the oil bath off the intake, it surged at high throttle. I gave up, went back to the broken original one. The governor could indeed have been it! That linkage did seem short. Damn. 😢
I'm sure you'll find the governor/mix sweet spot Sean, its an iterative adjustment. Note that after I found the perfect sweet spot while it was unloaded, I have found that I had to turn the high speed mix 1/2 turn richer to allow sudden loads on the engine (sudden clutch pops loaded). Your mileage will vary, but when you find the combination that works you'll be singing the Chinese anthem. Well, maybe not.
Lucky to have one of those flip up pan seats that’s not all crusty rusty
That's my 400 lol
@@FarmallFanatic yeah, so I’m gonna need that tractor. Haha. There’s a 1000 loader here in the puckies for $600. If it didn’t make the tractor steer like crap, I’d consider it. I got a nice set of frame weights for my 200.
It's for doing mulch or landscaping at best
@@FarmallFanatic my brother had a loader on that super C when it had a wide front on it. It brings new meaning to the words “Power Steering” as in it takes all your power to steer it.
Brakes too
Agreed with float sticking, sounds flooded.
IDK brotha'. I feel your frustration.. I'd suggest go back start over, go back to Marvell, rebuild, and so forth.
Seems to be a float problem. Take the carb apart and check and clean it. You might be surprised what you might find. Buddy just got one for a different tractor an end up taking it apart and the float was installed wrong.
I usually rebuild the original carb from any tractor I aquire. That being said, I recently picked up a C that was sitting without a fuel cap. The carb was full of water but it cleaned up perfectly. Only issue is the fuel nozzle broke off. So, I put the Zenith from my Super C on to get it running. Ran like a top! Ordered the same Chinese carb as you did to get me by until the original is done. It acts EXACTLY the same. Surges like crazy and no amount of adjusting will make it run smooth. Go original or go home! 😂
Exactly
I'm going to retract my previous statement. It was eating at me that it wouldn't run on that carb so I started tinkering and finally have it running smoothly. Once it was set enough to run on its own sputtering and spurting, I started by adjusting the governor bumper spring until it smoother out a bit. Be careful doing this since the fan and belts are right there! Then I adjusted the high and low until it smoothed out some more. Lastly I adjusted the timing by turning the distributor very slowly and it smoothed out perfectly. Now it's purring just fine! Make sure when you turn the high knob on the carb to do it very slowly. The sweet spot was really small and you can miss it easily. I'll still go back to the original tsx-520, but it's good to know this will work with some tinkering. Just don't expect plug and play with these clones.
@@garthmcelroy823 My thing with the $40 carburetor is...I'm not adjusting my entire tractor to make it work... In a pinch I would have no choice
Excellent video Farmall Fanitic :) have use carbs brands of Zenith type updraft one's and why ask my dad use one on 1950 Cockshutt COOP 40 on Buta 235 6 cylinder motor gas and plus 1968 McCormick International 105C combine with Farmall H basic 4 cylinders 202 Cubic Cm size gas motor had no problem only was when fuel filter need change when surge too and cure it ! Also the one think float sticking or fuel in let give to much fuel to hope tell also what happened to A problem was solved too! Also saying fuel caps have ever got one for Farmall tractor you own has fuel gauge type in cap from one got mail ?
Yeah just go to that link in the description and you can order one
You always take a chance on Chinese carb. I've gotten good and bad ones. Had one fall apart on me once!
Not surprised
I would avoid Chinese anything. American made is definitely better quality. The surging/loping makes me think governor, but that carb is probably bad. You got me my safety cap, so, thanks. I got mine pretty quickly too.
I haven't looked terribly hard. Looking for a magneto replacement video. Also what oil do you put in your air filter? Thank you! Great video's!
That replacement video will be under the farmall a playlist. I use the same as I use in the motor as far as air filter oil
Governor surge may need to tighten the governor spring, if I rember on mine it's a bolt and jam nut on top of the governor housing. In my case the spring was broke. There is a good youtube video on adjusting the governor. I think the carb is fine
Well the governor is trying to compensate for the carburetor not working right. I've never had one single problem with this governor until I put this carburetor on
@@FarmallFanatic oh 👍
I had a cub with one of those 48" decks . They were free swinging to break away when you encounter something to tough to cut
Makes sense
@@FarmallFanatic it was a 42" now that I think about it. My A with a L306 deck has more power per inch of cutting capacity though compared to a cub 🙁
usually if it will run with some throttle but not idle you have an air leak. the surging makes me think the same or you have bad gas / clogged jet.
You could try using two intake gaskets.
I would like you said, put a Kit in the other carburetor.
Come on "Farmall" , we both know there's only so many things that it can be why it won't run. I know this makes good content for your channel and I'm all about that, I just love seeing actual real people's UA-cam channels growing. But we all need to subscribe to the ghost of a Lucius clay. I can't stress that enough?
AHAHAHAHAHAHAHA HE NEEDS TO SLOW DOWN....GROWING TOO FAST AHAHAHAHAHAHAHA
Idle circuit not working on the MIC carb. I think it's getting too much gas. No idle adjustment is the clue. Either the float is set too high or has a leak, or the gas is leaking by the needle valve. Either the valve is not seating properly or leaking by the threads for the seat. Some MS carbs will do that also, and the only cure is to change 'em out. When rebuilding, chase the little passage ways with a small wire. I use a wire pulled out of a wire brush. Too often the passage ways have obstructions that carb cleaner will blast right past and not clear the passage way on me and not solve the poor running. Using a wire will break up whatever is in there and then the carb cleaner stands a chance to push it out. You'll get her going and running like a top. Good Luck.
Another thing to try to clean orifices and passageways would be a set of torch tip cleaners..an assortment of sizes,all in a handy package!!
I've never had good luck with the real marvel carbs or the Chinese clones of them. I have a Chinese zenith clone on one of my super As and it caused some surging, but I was able to get it stabilized. Other than that it did just as good as the stock zenith on my other super A. Just my two cents, have a good one!
I’m
Not a marvel fan either unless you’re talking about marvel comics😄
The carb on my B leaks like crazy, but the rebuild kit is the same $ as a new carb on Amazon, my question is, even if it doesn't work, could I use the parts from the cheap carb to rebuild the old one or do they vary too much?
Well your needle valve is stuck... But it definitely needs a rebuild.. I will tell you this much from my experience, I like original parts
@@FarmallFanatic as in original IH rebuild kits or from YT/Steiner? If you got original ones who's selling them, I could use a few
I prefer original stuff or as original as possible.. a long ways away from the Chinese crap
Now I know to stay away from Chinese carburetors. Thanks for being the guinnypig. I've always just overhauled my existing carb. Just to make sure....did you make sure you have good gas flow?
Yep
Sounds like not getting fuel probably rust in the tank
Great video go Red Power rebuild your old car that's the best have fun buddy
The blades are supposed to be like that because if you had some solid your blows gearbox right now they're made like that and I did not read the comments for somebody else probably said the same thing centrifical force and that's the way they're supposed to be
Did Zenith make a five bolt bowl carb or is this a knock off ? I’m having the same problem. I ordered a rebuild kit to try that but I’m at a loss. All of the jets are clean and ports are clear. The Venturi fits kinda sloppy.
Allegedly, Zenith never made a five bolt carburetor
Hello Gino your getting enough fuel. If you adjusting carb with choke on or half on your wasting time to adjust it. Maybe carb is dirty hope you have running now. Thanks video
Well this carb just come out of the Box
16:16 shouldn't that have made more of a DIFFEREANCE when you put the ''air cleaner'' upside down and ''starved the air'' ???? seems that should have done something..... deep in my head it said *THERE YA GO* !!! when you put it upseid down on the air intake and it didn't REALLY DO ANYTHING.... like prove too much air, or AIR IS ISSUE ???
I'm not a mechanic this lifetime, but I werked on stuff in previous ones lol
I have SEEN MANY peeps TUNE BY HEAR'n the changeing.... just never had great luck when *I* HADDA DO IT once or twice, ...callen in the experts for a PHONE A FRIEND was juse how both those times went... lol
I believe that the mower blades should swivel. Those are designed that way so there's give if an obstruction is hit. the bush hogs are the same way...
What year is your A?. I have a '46 and I have never seen a starter switch like that, only one that you push with with your foot
47
I bought a Chinese carb once. It sits on the shelf in the oem carb box I replaced it with. I learned my lesson, buy oem or equivalent US products whenever I can. That chynuh carb never would run right. A lot if wasted time messing with chynuh junk.
Yep
Same. About 4-5 years I bought one. Junk out of the box. I rebuilt my zenith and it’s been fine ever since
Rebuild your old carburetor good 👍 job man
Float sticking.
Ive had nothing but issues with the 2 I got from Amazon. I rebuilt the original on the 43 H now runs great and just rebuilt the original Zenith for the 49 Super A which will be going back on this week. Now we know why they are only $35 lol Live and learn right!
All joking aside though your A is acting exactly to a T how mine was acting with that card. Idle screws hardly did anything, governor surge constantly but I couldn't get full throttle.
35 bucks barely got me back in the shed...I could have towed it for free lol
I made the mistake of trying the 3 pack of brake/clutch springs as well for 9 bucks....yeah pedals wouldn't even think about returning 🤣
Is it an American carb made in China for cheap then sold back at a price as if it was made in America or a Chinese developed carb like the original for tractors to replace the original
Chinese developed
In my opinion it is starving for gas not air.
You would probably be better off with a junk original carb and a can of B12 going through it then a good clean and rebuilt for less money
Did you take the carb apart and clean it out before you installed it? Mine was full of Styrofoam packing.
Yep
@@FarmallFanatic well that sucks. Thought maybe just a simple cleaning would do. I bought one 4 or maybe 5 years ago. We don't use the tractor a pile but it seems to run well so far. Take care
No way I would buy a China carburetor. I have a few used carbs for rebuilding. Problem is the parts available aren't always the best but still better than the knock off new carburetor
For sure
Check your air cleaner assembly, sounds like there may be some kind of an obstruction in there.
It ain't air...only time it squawked for air is full choke
Just another note maybe your cap is not venting
I'd rebuild the stock carburetor.
Just another note your float level may be wrong
Those blades are supposed to swing out straight. I don't think they should be that hard to move with your hand.
Wouldn't buy a Chinese carb now! 🤣
Is the fuel flowing in good? Line not clogged up?
Perfect
@@FarmallFanatic Safe to say. Chinese carb is crap.
Bought a Chinese carb for my 55 cub and you have to leave the main jet open a little to give it any throttle. I will never buy another Chinese carb.
That tractor is like "get this chinese garbage off of me!"
Lol
You'll figure A out Gino🇺🇸
I thought the fuel cap program expired......
They have so many They just kept on giving them out
I never had luck and never heard anything good about the Chinese carbs,
If you got a good one then that was luck .
For a Briggs, all day. For a Farmall it seems like sacrilege.
Right ✅️
BOOOOOOOOM....!!!!
I agree..you take a chance when it comes from China.😏
I think I would rebuild the old carb, and throw that chinese carb on the rubbish heap, and check the gas line and flow just for peace of mind. Double D.
💯
Sounds like you need to send that carburetor back to China or get a couple of China men to come and work on it for you
Put the marvel back on it.
👍
.. that carb may not be....FILLING TO THE RIM..... !!!!
AHAHAHAHAHAHAHA I'm gonna do a giveaway on the channel...an entire case of BRIM!
bummer, maybe you got a lemon instead of a a carburetor ???
That's pretty much what I figure
Probabry nart
No Chinese parts for me unless that is all that is getable !
No absolutely not.
First thought is don't bastardize a farmall with chines crap. May as well have a john deer at that point. Second thought take a small jewelers file to the jets. May be to small.
No argument here