I had to adjust the Carburetor on my 8N once and it's very similar just a tad different. I had a Manual and it helped. thanks for sharing this will help a lot of people.
I learned a new trick this week for sticky float, run tractor full throttle then pull choke out. It will give an extra flow of gas knocking out dirt sticking in the seat . Saved me from removing carb and no leakage any longer !
@@FarmallFanatic Have seen video saying this stickiness is caused by ethanol gasoline. Metal polished mine (needle) and will begin running carb cleaner through mine after each use before shutting down with non-ethanol gas only.
Brother, I like how you state the issue and promise it will be fixed, then you do it. Why does this video not have 1 million views already!!! Great job battle, keep up coming.
On the farms 1948 M, I set the main jet while I have it on the 10” x 71 foot swing auger. The M does not handle the auger like the 1206 does, but I love not having to climb up in the cab 4 times for every semi load! The M does good enough, I love that I can start it, engage the PTO, disengage the PTO, shut it off, all from the ground!
A big reason for that is they were designed to be used as belt power for things around the farm. Before electric was readily available belt power ran mills and shellars. They had to be operable from the ground.
Good job i agree with everything you said. 0ver the years I've rebuilt and tuned a lot of Gravely carburetors. There very similar to what you have. Just like the "M"s each one has its own personality. Also following the recommended factory settings will get you pretty close. But you always have to do a little bit of tweaking.
hey i have a gravely model LI and the needle valve is very loose and is not tight enough in the carb to stay in while running and it leaks alittle , any tips or ideas?
My tractor runs good with the chock half closed. When I open the chock it stumbles back fires sometimes and dies like it ran out of fuel. I did take carb off and clean it and used old gaskets and rv sealer. It ran great last summer. I added some fresh gas. Thoughts, sorry by the way I'm working on a Ford 800.
Modern fuel with alcohol makes these old carbs goofy. Every time you buy gasoline the alcohol content will be slightly different. Which means sometimes it will run lean and sometimes it won't. We take the pain and buy alcohol free fuel and then the carb adjustments actually stay good. Also alcohol free gas runs much cooler in your air cooled engines which is better for the engine and prevents fuel line cavitation. If you have had a garden tractor or lawn mower conk out on a hot day you know what I mean.
fantastic video i have an International AW6 i went to start it it spins over with starter then goes bang-out exhaust i pulled the H4 mag to bits i timed the mag gears the two little ones the only thing it can be now is fuel i have noticed the idle air screw is turned all the way in seated should that be turned out 1 full turn will that cause the tractor not to start
Cranked all the way down it would definitely cause it not to run or not to run correctly. Try following these exact steps and see where it gets you, but I know cranked down tight it should not be
I bought a 6.5 liter one, it handles the Farmall M carb great. I bought mine for $180. I have found a lot of things to put in the ultra sonic, now that I have one sitting on the bench.
Adjust your float according to the manual and if you have to hit it with a hammer-use a rubber mallet please. Mine has several flat spots on it. I never have to hit with anything. Just my 2 cents.
We where having issues with the cast iron carb on our Super A. I have cleaned it. however it has a fixed main jet and likely jetted for the smaller 113 engine. Sowe ordered a brand new carb from E Bay. It has arrived Very nice looking carb. has a adjsustable main jet. new gaskets studs nuts and inline fitting. We will do a install and make a video in a few days. Cost of carb including tax was only $41!
There is a screen on the inlet. This will Always get gunked up. Clean it every season start. Run engine up to 1500 then tune main jet for drop in RPM. Tune idle air fuel, then back to main,finish with idle.
My idle air mixture screw can’t turn because there the end of the flat screwdriver goes is old and worn out. What could I do, rip it out and get a new one ? If so where can you get those
Thankyou for sharing! I have a 1941 m that's ready to have its heartbeat restored and with your videos I have a great starting point for the adjustments!🚜
Never done a Farmall carburettor but the settings you describe an procedure is very similar to other petrol tractors, over here most of our spark ignition tractors run petrol to warm up then switch over to kerosene and sometimes you just have to accept a happy medium for the two fuels although as the tractor when it's working is usually running on Kerosene most people tweek the carburettor for under load 👍👍
If the floats getting sticky you can get away with some seafoam cleaner , just put two cans in the fuel tank with a few gallons of fuel and it does a decent job at cleaning the carb up a little bit. Also if your tractors acting funny all of a sudden dont mess with the carb first, the settings don't change themselves
@@FarmallFanatic haha indeed, I don't care for it either but it does clean carbs up pretty well. I usually just take the whole thing apart and spray it with brake cleaner to get the varnish off .
@@FarmallFanatic No sir, it is kind of funny, the way that I am raised I don't get a phone till I drive and I don't get my license until the 17th of this month. My dad is on Facebook though.
Hi, I just purchased a farmall m model 1951 , ran ok ,seems like it was missing or running rough but load up on trailer drove home 50 miles once i got home it would start anymore just cranks & cranks . Notice carburetor leaks a lot of fuel from bottom of it just kind drains like steady stream so im sure carburetor needs rebuild, i did start at frist with that issue and ran for a bit but now it won't run what do you think can be the issue ? Or should I check ? Appreciate your help thanks
When gas runs out of the carb like that, your float is stuck. Take a hammer and lightly tap on the side of the carb. If that dont work, put a can of saefoam in your tank. If that dont work, the carb needs rebuilt
i WISH YOU WAS CLOSE TO ME.. When my tractor is shut off the carb leaks gas and i have to shut the gas line tank valve off to stop the leak off when the tractor is not running!!
i RAN THE AIR ALL THE AYAND IT STILL SMOKED, SO i RAN IT OUT A FULL TURN AND LEFT THAT ALONE. sTILL SMOKING A BIT. HEN i TRIED ROMPING IT IDE OPEN IT really SMOKED, BUT IT GOT THERE AND RAN GREAT ONCE THERE. iT RUNS PERFECT AT IDLE ALSO Sorry about the craps lol
Thanks for all the videos. I have a Farmall 400 but have been having issues with it. Right now it will rev up uncontrollably and will not stop. It seems that the throttle is connected still but haven't tore into the governor yet. Any ideas?
im working on the carb on a 300 utility in a forklift and I can only get it to run with choke on. Had a very experienced tractor mechanic rebuild the carb for me but I still cant get it set. Its especially goofy in a forklift because its got a springy momentary throttle. Any thoughts on how to get it to run with choke off? Its got a new sediment bowl and inline filter but inline filter is never full either. Thanks!
I have a farmall international 424 that I'm trying to fix. When you start it it runs wide open what can I do to fix this? Any help would be appreciated....
You gave good advice. I Live at 600-800 ft elevation and took my tractor to Colorado at 5000ft plus and had to readjust the carb. I also have a M, thanks for your videos
You didn't show anyone how to adjust the carb. To show that, you need to start the tractor and then go through the procedure of turning the screws, listening to the engine etc. Worthless crap just to get views for UA-cam money.
That depends on how long it's gonna be before I use it next. The problem with prolonged dry out in the carb is that you can get condensation...which can lead to rust in the bowl.
@@FarmallFanatic Good to know. I'm restoring an M and I've been having issues with the fuel dripping out of the bowl and the mixture being too rich which is causing an extra popping sound. Thanks for the info!
Problems to watch for. Throttle shaft wear, it screws up the "econonomizer" Float rubbing against the bowl equals flooding, fuel starvation or intermittently both. Don't forget water and rust in the gas tank.
The only difference between the 400 carb and the M carb is the choke control connects to the motor side using a cable on the 400 and on the M using a rod on the side away from the motor.
Farmall Fanatic The SMTA has a rod on the motor side of the carburetor to run the choke. An old IHC mechanic told me why the M & some Super M have the choke rod on the outside of the carburetor. If you are hand cranking a tractor, you want the choke very accessible! I have seen some old hand crank tractors with a choke rod right on the side of the radiator close to the crank! Hello from north east Montana.
There you go!!! Any gas engine has to be Fully warmed up or your just wasting your time. We use a dyno. spark timing , load , and idle. For the load you can turn it in till it goes over lean, then come out till rich. Usually , a turn and a half or so. Then some guys split the difference witch is ok. but on the dyno a little on the fat side is where we set it. and safer too. lean is mean but can cost a rebuild eventually . For the idle we set the idle low. lower than you would normally set it. then turn the low speed jet screw in and out slowly to get the highest idle. if you try this with the engine running too fast it will be getting fuel from the main jet. so slow idle is important. then you can set the idle where you like it. as you know a 4in pump can do the same. My M has high compression pistons, full Petronics ignition and wires, Max is 55 hp. it can also run so slow you can count the blades on the fan. And, in 5th gear on the road less than 300 rpm I can pull it all the way open and not miss a beat.And I agree, all motors can be a little different.
They're pretty similar with these old tractors, you ain't gonna learn if you don't make mistakes. Even a turtle has to stick it's head &legs out to move ...
Clean fuel is always key, no doubt that if you start from scratch on factory adjustments and you still cant get it to run right you have dirt problems either in your fuel or in the carburetor itself
@FarmallFanatic we were thinking that we are going to take it to the Carolina classic fair next week and when we get back we are going to buy a new carb 200.00
Carburetor adjustment on Gas powered tractors is crucial for optimum engine performance just like injection pump adjust is crucial for diesel powered tractors...
Ours always wanted to overflow out of the top. They are fairly easy to fix. Goo job love these vids of my youth. Holt shit that makes me old. Take Care bud.
You are looking for a fast hitch 3 bottom turning playoff for your M last year Crazy D's go to his UA-cam channel he has won in Iowa he priced it for $300 on his cell Channel last week
I have a Marvel schebler TSX 785 and I got a problem with it, the carburetor is newly rebuilt and thoroughly cleaned by professionals who specialize in rebuilding carbs and it works just fine when my tractor is running but when it's standing for a couple hours then fuel starts leaking out at the choke mechanism, it's strange the carb is newly rebuilt and I do have the factory fuel bowl filter and I added an inline filter too so dirty fuel isn't the problem. I'm wondering what the problem could be?
I hope you can help. I bought a Farmall 460 from my father in law to help ease his mind. It has a miss to the engine. I changed, cap, rotor, plugs, wires, points and condenser. No change, one guy says bent push rod. Another says sticky valves. I know the valves was never adjusted. Is that a possibility?
Thanks for the info. I have a question, I bought a new zenith carburetor for my Farmall Super C and right away it started to leak from the bottom, I will try the hammer method.
Was over at a friend's house who has a very nice example of this model. He was tapping the side of the carb to stop it from leaking, as you were saying. I had never looked at 1940 stuff and asked what the tube at the top left does, and although he is a very talented guy, who works on all of his own stuff, he didn't know. I assumed it draws warm air from the engine, but I'd love to REALLY know what it is.
I think he meant the tube coming of the top of valve cover. I was curious about that too. Mine has been blocked off and book tells me nothing. Thanks for the tuning tips. I just rebuilt my utility 300. It starts and runs about 30 seconds or less and I have gone thru the carb 3 times. 1st time it was not getting fuel, 2nd time flooding out, now it seems OK with float but I can't seem to keep it running long enough to adjust squat.
I have a 1948 Farmall cub with a after market carb and i adjusted it to 1 1/2 turns out and it would not start then i turned it to 2 1/2 out and it ran just as it did before the adjustment.
I need help fighting where to put the motor oil in the McCormick daring international h i 6 standard 4.2 l engine show me where to put the oil so I can change it out
Good advice good vid. One thing all colors backi then had in commom is, a tweek with a plow in the ground is the final adjustment. Also a tiny bit rich makes them start better. Have you seen Phil yet. ??? He should be out messing around.
I did a complete rebuild on my carburetor for my super w6 but now the tractor wont run off full choke. I have changed all the setting on the carb and it doesn't change a thing. Would it still be the carb or do I have another issue somewhere?
Great info I just rebuilt my carb on my super m and having trouble keeping it running def gonna give this a try my neighbor has a H and said the exact same thing your explaining
Good video. Sounds about right to me. I do keep the main needle a five turns on my H for plowing & other heavy work & 2 3/4 for light duty fartin' around the yard. Same for the 400 I had at one point in history. I recall there being an issue with running an engine too lean. Was it cylinder scoring? Anywho, your experience with four turns max makes me wonder if the needle for the M is shorter.... or is the needle in the aftermarket kit shorter? I've scrounged Ebay, the Parts Depot & other resources for years to keep myself in NOS carb & other parts. So, I don't know if there is a difference. And YES, don't crank those needles in until they scream. You'll put a notch in them, shoulder them or both. It looks like you have a screw loose on the carb end of your governor tube. Might just be seeing it wrong, too. Your friend "Tom" the spambot is back in the comments, also. Have a good one!
@@FarmallFanatic Tom is an account used by a spammer to glean peoples personal info, should they engage. Same thing if you see Tim, Tem &/or Tyler. They all have the same logo & are up to equal amounts of no good. There's also Mrbeast that offers up free stuff to get your info & Ximer Tracks that does the same. There's another big one & my CRS is kicking in at the moment. I'll post back when I remember.
Ikon Sees Mr No I like the premium carburetor kits from Steiner Tractor Parts. Either the IHS 3164 or the IHS 3328. About $75, but has all the parts, throttle shaft, plate, screws, bushings. Choke shaft, plate, screws, bushings, ball, spring seals. Main jet needle, idle jet needle, all screws, all gaskets. For a big help to overhaul the IHC carburetor, get the Red Power Magazine March/April 2019, page 59 to 64, by The Tractor Doctor. It sure helped me! Hello from north east Montana!
Have you changed the load adjustment? That idle screw only effects the mixture at idle. Are you gettin some black or brownish smoke when you pull the throttle open? If you can't lean it out with the load screw then you will have to lower the float setting. That is adjust so that the valve closes "sooner (lower fuel level in bowl)
Great video! Your tips were right on!
Having overhauled dozens of Farmall carbs I will say you are spot on! Great video for the person who wants to rebuild his or her own carb!
I had to adjust the Carburetor on my 8N once and it's very similar just a tad different. I had a Manual and it helped. thanks for sharing this will help a lot of people.
I learned a new trick this week for sticky float, run tractor full throttle then pull choke out. It will give an extra flow of gas knocking out dirt sticking in the seat . Saved me from removing carb and no leakage any longer !
Interesting 👍
@@FarmallFanatic Have seen video saying this stickiness is caused by ethanol gasoline. Metal polished mine (needle) and will begin running carb cleaner through mine after each use before shutting down with non-ethanol gas only.
Brother, I like how you state the issue and promise it will be fixed, then you do it. Why does this video not have 1 million views already!!! Great job battle, keep up coming.
BOOM get 'er done!
Thanks for passing along some great information.
Thanks for the info. My dad and I are having trouble with the carburetor on our Farmall 460 so hopefully this will help
You did a really good job explaining stuff !
Thank you!
I agree every motor will be different....factory setting only go so far...good starting point👍 great video
On the farms 1948 M, I set the main jet while I have it on the 10” x 71 foot swing auger. The M does not handle the auger like the 1206 does, but I love not having to climb up in the cab 4 times for every semi load! The M does good enough, I love that I can start it, engage the PTO, disengage the PTO, shut it off, all from the ground!
A big reason for that is they were designed to be used as belt power for things around the farm. Before electric was readily available belt power ran mills and shellars. They had to be operable from the ground.
i recently aquired a 52 M with a loader, i will try what you suggested, It currently dies under load
Right on
Good job i agree with everything you said. 0ver the years I've rebuilt and tuned a lot of Gravely carburetors. There very similar to what you have. Just like the "M"s each one has its own personality. Also following the recommended factory settings will get you pretty close. But you always have to do a little bit of tweaking.
hey i have a gravely model LI and the needle valve is very loose and is not tight enough in the carb to stay in while running and it leaks alittle , any tips or ideas?
My tractor runs good with the chock half closed. When I open the chock it stumbles back fires sometimes and dies like it ran out of fuel. I did take carb off and clean it and used old gaskets and rv sealer. It ran great last summer. I added some fresh gas. Thoughts, sorry by the way I'm working on a Ford 800.
Check ur tank
Modern fuel with alcohol makes these old carbs goofy. Every time you buy gasoline the alcohol content will be slightly different. Which means sometimes it will run lean and sometimes it won't. We take the pain and buy alcohol free fuel and then the carb adjustments actually stay good. Also alcohol free gas runs much cooler in your air cooled engines which is better for the engine and prevents fuel line cavitation. If you have had a garden tractor or lawn mower conk out on a hot day you know what I mean.
Let's see them tractors work already,, boom
What inline filter do you use? What size hose? Where can I get the bowl filter?? What octane gas do you use?
Check ebay...last I knew, they had em. Inline...NAPA 3003
Good advice for basic carburetor setup & adjusting the settings. Thanks for sharing. Stay safe.
fantastic video i have an International AW6 i went to start it it spins over with starter then goes bang-out exhaust i pulled the H4 mag to bits i timed the mag gears the two little ones the only thing it can be now is fuel i have noticed the idle air screw is turned all the way in seated should that be turned out 1 full turn will that cause the tractor not to start
Cranked all the way down it would definitely cause it not to run or not to run correctly. Try following these exact steps and see where it gets you, but I know cranked down tight it should not be
@farmallfanatic nice 10’ jd cultimulcher for sale near Harrisburg. Very good price.
I saw one too...stuff going cheap
Farmall Fanatic yes sir this one was 700$ 🤭 n darn nice condition. Hard finding a nice culti packer for that money....
Very interesting mate. Don't see many carb tractors over here. The wind didn't bother me Farmall. You know your stuff on the Farmall buddy.👍👁👃👁
You forgot to mention it’s completely normal for them to frost up in the middle of summer 🤣🤣💪💪 red power 💥
Ultrasonic cleaners sure do a great job, a good Ultrasonic cleaner is pricey but worth the investment. 👍
Definitely worth the investment ..you can clean a ton of stuff with it
I bought a 6.5 liter one, it handles the Farmall M carb great. I bought mine for $180. I have found a lot of things to put in the ultra sonic, now that I have one sitting on the bench.
Great informative video once again Farmall. Always learn something watching your videos, brother. BOOM from the North side!
Not too far north haha
Awesome video, not many know how to work on anything without a computer anymore. Good one👍
Adjust your float according to the manual and if you have to hit it with a hammer-use a rubber mallet please. Mine has several flat spots on it. I never have to hit with anything. Just my 2 cents.
Yep got several dead blows in the tool box...i agree
I’ve got a 60s Massey Ferguson 65, do you think the setting will be about the same?
I honestly cannot answer that I can tell you.. If the screws are the same then I would try it
We where having issues with the cast iron carb on our Super A. I have cleaned it. however it has a fixed main jet and likely jetted for the smaller 113 engine. Sowe ordered a brand new carb from E Bay. It has arrived Very nice looking carb. has a adjsustable main jet. new gaskets studs nuts and inline fitting. We will do a install and make a video in a few days. Cost of carb including tax was only $41!
Yea they are cheap
That carburator still holding up? Which one was it?
Great video
There is a screen on the inlet. This will Always get gunked up. Clean it every season start. Run engine up to 1500 then tune main jet for drop in RPM. Tune idle air fuel, then back to main,finish with idle.
My idle air mixture screw can’t turn because there the end of the flat screwdriver goes is old and worn out. What could I do, rip it out and get a new one ? If so where can you get those
Look on steiners but I usually buy an entire kit and rebuild the carb
Boom! Not all hero's wear capes, great job !
Haha
Thankyou for sharing! I have a 1941 m that's ready to have its heartbeat restored and with your videos I have a great starting point for the adjustments!🚜
Never done a Farmall carburettor but the settings you describe an procedure is very similar to other petrol tractors, over here most of our spark ignition tractors run petrol to warm up then switch over to kerosene and sometimes you just have to accept a happy medium for the two fuels although as the tractor when it's working is usually running on Kerosene most people tweek the carburettor for under load 👍👍
Thanks for keeping the videos flowing through tough times..
If the floats getting sticky you can get away with some seafoam cleaner , just put two cans in the fuel tank with a few gallons of fuel and it does a decent job at cleaning the carb up a little bit. Also if your tractors acting funny all of a sudden dont mess with the carb first, the settings don't change themselves
I use seafoam a lot lol...i didn't want to be called a mechanic in a can lmao
@@FarmallFanatic haha indeed, I don't care for it either but it does clean carbs up pretty well. I usually just take the whole thing apart and spray it with brake cleaner to get the varnish off .
Not every thing in a can works, but seafoam really does.
@@georgebruderly6119 seafoam & dieselkleen just plain work.
Will this be the same as a cub? I inherited a 57 cub
A cub has a different carburetor with fewer adjustments
I have been looking for a used carburetor for my wide front M, when I got it, it did not have one. where would you get one?
Are you on facebook
@@FarmallFanatic No sir, it is kind of funny, the way that I am raised I don't get a phone till I drive and I don't get my license until the 17th of this month. My dad is on Facebook though.
@@FarmallFanatic Do you sell any on Facebook? I found an H carb, but I don't think that it will work?
@@FarmallFanatic Do you sell any on Facebook. I found an H carb, but I don't think that it will work.
Carburetors come up for sale in Farmall Fanatics group
Hi, I just purchased a farmall m model 1951 , ran ok ,seems like it was missing or running rough but load up on trailer drove home 50 miles once i got home it would start anymore just cranks & cranks . Notice carburetor leaks a lot of fuel from bottom of it just kind drains like steady stream so im sure carburetor needs rebuild, i did start at frist with that issue and ran for a bit but now it won't run what do you think can be the issue ? Or should I check ? Appreciate your help thanks
When gas runs out of the carb like that, your float is stuck. Take a hammer and lightly tap on the side of the carb. If that dont work, put a can of saefoam in your tank. If that dont work, the carb needs rebuilt
@@FarmallFanatic ok understood, issue is it won't start now just keeps cranking but won't start ,how can i get it to start with the float stuck ?
Try tapping on the carburetor with a hammer...
What kind of tachometer would you recommend to adjust carb on a 1947 Farmall Cub?
Steiner sells universal ones that work fine
The hammer tap. Lol remember those days!
Great info bud ! Thanks for sharing
i WISH YOU WAS CLOSE TO ME.. When my tractor is shut off the carb leaks gas and i have to shut the gas line tank valve off to stop the leak off when the tractor is not running!!
You gotta stuck needle valve
i RAN THE AIR ALL THE AYAND IT STILL SMOKED, SO i RAN IT OUT A FULL TURN AND LEFT THAT ALONE. sTILL SMOKING A BIT. HEN i TRIED ROMPING IT IDE OPEN IT really SMOKED, BUT IT GOT THERE AND RAN GREAT ONCE THERE. iT RUNS PERFECT AT IDLE ALSO Sorry about the craps lol
Excellent
Thanks for all the videos. I have a Farmall 400 but have been having issues with it. Right now it will rev up uncontrollably and will not stop. It seems that the throttle is connected still but haven't tore into the governor yet. Any ideas?
Probably bad spring
im working on the carb on a 300 utility in a forklift and I can only get it to run with choke on. Had a very experienced tractor mechanic rebuild the carb for me but I still cant get it set. Its especially goofy in a forklift because its got a springy momentary throttle. Any thoughts on how to get it to run with choke off? Its got a new sediment bowl and inline filter but inline filter is never full either. Thanks!
Could be a few things. Float not set right, restrictions from the tank to the carb, needle valve sticking, etc.
I have a farmall international 424 that I'm trying to fix. When you start it it runs wide open what can I do to fix this? Any help would be appreciated....
That sounds like governor
You gave good advice. I Live at 600-800 ft elevation and took my tractor to Colorado at 5000ft plus and had to readjust the carb. I also have a M, thanks for your videos
After I made the video, my brother was talking about elevation. It's funny you mention that 👍
You didn't show anyone how to adjust the carb. To show that, you need to start the tractor and then go through the procedure of turning the screws, listening to the engine etc. Worthless crap just to get views for UA-cam money.
Well, I'm sure you subscribed, so Part 2 where the adjustments are made, you'll get to view 😁
As you so correctly said, on a decades old tractor this is a baseline setting. All are different, but this will get you very close. Use common sense.
Right
You got any diesels? Would love some maintenance tutorials for diesels.
Most of these old birds were gassers but I will have diesels here on the farm
I use denatured alcohol to clean my carburators
Helped a ton. Thank you!
I will try mine is messed up
Great info.
Question for you. Do you run the fuel line dry before putting the tractor away or do you just leave it open until you use it next time?
That depends on how long it's gonna be before I use it next. The problem with prolonged dry out in the carb is that you can get condensation...which can lead to rust in the bowl.
@@FarmallFanatic Good to know. I'm restoring an M and I've been having issues with the fuel dripping out of the bowl and the mixture being too rich which is causing an extra popping sound. Thanks for the info!
Problems to watch for.
Throttle shaft wear, it screws up the "econonomizer"
Float rubbing against the bowl equals flooding, fuel starvation or intermittently both.
Don't forget water and rust in the gas tank.
Why don’t you wanna see smoke coming out the stack? 💁♂️🚂
It's not a diesel. Black smoke out a gas engine means it's way to rich...
Is this a very similar carb to the one on the 400? (in other words, will this work for my 400 also? Thanks, d
The only difference between the 400 carb and the M carb is the choke control connects to the motor side using a cable on the 400 and on the M using a rod on the side away from the motor.
Farmall Fanatic The SMTA has a rod on the motor side of the carburetor to run the choke. An old IHC mechanic told me why the M & some Super M have the choke rod on the outside of the carburetor.
If you are hand cranking a tractor, you want the choke very accessible!
I have seen some old hand crank tractors with a choke rod right on the side of the radiator close to the crank!
Hello from north east Montana.
Great info!
I set my farmall m h super m man jet well running a 4 inch pto water pump
That's really the way to do it
There you go!!! Any gas engine has to be Fully warmed up or your just wasting your time. We use a dyno. spark timing , load , and idle. For the load you can turn it in till it goes over lean, then come out till rich. Usually , a turn and a half or so. Then some guys split the difference witch is ok. but on the dyno a little on the fat side is where we set it. and safer too. lean is mean but can cost a rebuild eventually . For the idle we set the idle low. lower than you would normally set it. then turn the low speed jet screw in and out slowly to get the highest idle. if you try this with the engine running too fast it will be getting fuel from the main jet. so slow idle is important. then you can set the idle where you like it. as you know a 4in pump can do the same. My M has high compression pistons, full Petronics ignition and wires, Max is 55 hp. it can also run so slow you can count the blades on the fan. And, in 5th gear on the road less than 300 rpm I can pull it all the way open and not miss a beat.And I agree, all motors can be a little different.
Thankyou
I need to send ya some pics. I have a cub, 100, 240 and 340 tricycle front end. Can’t beat the international fast hitch. Back in and go.
Why Does my Tractor just Rev Out of control??
Could be Governor springs are shot
Awsome info from th Farmall master great video sledgehammered that like button stay awsome and blessed
you seem pretty genned up about these carbs mate
*👍Au👍thumbs up for you plus a full view too*
Good to know. I've never worked on a carburetor before I wonder if setting a carb on the 656 is the same
They're pretty similar with these old tractors, you ain't gonna learn if you don't make mistakes. Even a turtle has to stick it's head &legs out to move ...
When the time comes I'll try it thanks for the info
Awesome video very interesting 👍 stay safe and healthy my friend 😊✌👍👍
Do you think those settings will work for a 706?
One way to find out
Perfect!!!!
Clean fuel is always key, no doubt that if you start from scratch on factory adjustments and you still cant get it to run right you have dirt problems either in your fuel or in the carburetor itself
The carbs I do for myself and others I clean in my bead blast cabinet. I’ve had good luck with it albeit they were carbs for John Deere! 😎😎
That thumbnail though! Reminds me of “ Honey, I shrunk the kids!”
Lol
my Farmall Super A will run perfect with full choke on but when you turn it off it sputters
Time for a carb rebuild
@FarmallFanatic we were thinking that we are going to take it to the Carolina classic fair next week and when we get back we are going to buy a new carb 200.00
Good Video!! You covered some things that I want to touch on with you, just not completely
Carburetor adjustment on Gas powered tractors is crucial for optimum engine performance just like injection pump adjust is crucial for diesel powered tractors...
Adjustment.. Typo.. Fat Fingers.. 😆!
Ours always wanted to overflow out of the top. They are fairly easy to fix. Goo job love these vids of my youth. Holt shit that makes me old. Take Care bud.
At least you're not alone in age lol
You are looking for a fast hitch 3 bottom turning playoff for your M last year Crazy D's go to his UA-cam channel he has won in Iowa he priced it for $300 on his cell Channel last week
Thank you, I will look
I have a Marvel schebler TSX 785 and I got a problem with it, the carburetor is newly rebuilt and thoroughly cleaned by professionals who specialize in rebuilding carbs and it works just fine when my tractor is running but when it's standing for a couple hours then fuel starts leaking out at the choke mechanism, it's strange the carb is newly rebuilt and I do have the factory fuel bowl filter and I added an inline filter too so dirty fuel isn't the problem. I'm wondering what the problem could be?
There is a seal that's bad around the choke itself.. probably didn't seat it tightly
Great video. I rebuilt the carb on my M last year and i just couldn't get the set up right. Your video explains it well. Thanks
I hope you can help. I bought a Farmall 460 from my father in law to help ease his mind. It has a miss to the engine. I changed, cap, rotor, plugs, wires, points and condenser. No change, one guy says bent push rod. Another says sticky valves. I know the valves was never adjusted. Is that a possibility?
Yes, put them to factory settings
Thank ya for the very informative video
Never been clear on the factory settings
On those carbs, take care. RED POWER 💥
Really great walk through! cheers
Thanks for the info. I have a question, I bought a new zenith carburetor for my Farmall Super C and right away it started to leak from the bottom, I will try the hammer method.
It can work
Was over at a friend's house who has a very nice example of this model.
He was tapping the side of the carb to stop it from leaking, as you were saying.
I had never looked at 1940 stuff and asked what the tube at the top left does, and although he is a very talented guy, who works on all of his own stuff, he didn't know.
I assumed it draws warm air from the engine, but I'd love to REALLY know what it is.
The tube at the top left is the throttle control
I think he meant the tube coming of the top of valve cover. I was curious about that too. Mine has been blocked off and book tells me nothing. Thanks for the tuning tips. I just rebuilt my utility 300. It starts and runs about 30 seconds or less and I have gone thru the carb 3 times. 1st time it was not getting fuel, 2nd time flooding out, now it seems OK with float but I can't seem to keep it running long enough to adjust squat.
I have a 1948 Farmall cub with a after market carb and i adjusted it to 1 1/2 turns out and it would not start then i turned it to 2 1/2 out and it ran just as it did before the adjustment.
👍
if your fuel is dirty then your tank is contaminated
I need help fighting where to put the motor oil in the McCormick daring international h i 6 standard 4.2 l engine show me where to put the oil so I can change it out
It's probably either going to be by the distributor or on top, but I would certainly buy an owner's manual for that tractor
Good advice good vid.
One thing all colors backi then had in commom is, a tweek with a plow in the ground is the final adjustment. Also a tiny bit rich makes them start better.
Have you seen Phil yet. ???
He should be out messing around.
Sure have...almost put a hole in him today
I did a complete rebuild on my carburetor for my super w6 but now the tractor wont run off full choke. I have changed all the setting on the carb and it doesn't change a thing. Would it still be the carb or do I have another issue somewhere?
It could be a restriction in the sediment bowl itself. To require full Choke, it is definitely starving for fuel.
Great info I just rebuilt my carb on my super m and having trouble keeping it running def gonna give this a try my neighbor has a H and said the exact same thing your explaining
Should work
Just rebuilt mine sandblasted, painted everything new, did factory settings, and still won't crank. It ran better crusty
Sounds like a spark issue, But you are definitely not the 1st one to tell me that... Youll get it figured out
Is this the same carburetor that’s on a 1947 International T6? Can I send it to you for rebuild?
I would send it to Denny's carbs in Ohio
That was very helpful thank you'
Thanx for the block of instruction 😎
I'm working on a 67 Farmall 424. Will the info you gave in the video work on it?
I mean some things well
Good video. Sounds about right to me. I do keep the main needle a five turns on my H for plowing & other heavy work & 2 3/4 for light duty fartin' around the yard. Same for the 400 I had at one point in history. I recall there being an issue with running an engine too lean. Was it cylinder scoring? Anywho, your experience with four turns max makes me wonder if the needle for the M is shorter.... or is the needle in the aftermarket kit shorter? I've scrounged Ebay, the Parts Depot & other resources for years to keep myself in NOS carb & other parts. So, I don't know if there is a difference. And YES, don't crank those needles in until they scream. You'll put a notch in them, shoulder them or both.
It looks like you have a screw loose on the carb end of your governor tube. Might just be seeing it wrong, too.
Your friend "Tom" the spambot is back in the comments, also.
Have a good one!
Ya who is that Tom?
@@FarmallFanatic Tom is an account used by a spammer to glean peoples personal info, should they engage. Same thing if you see Tim, Tem &/or Tyler. They all have the same logo & are up to equal amounts of no good. There's also Mrbeast that offers up free stuff to get your info & Ximer Tracks that does the same. There's another big one & my CRS is kicking in at the moment. I'll post back when I remember.
Ikon Sees Mr No I like the premium carburetor kits from Steiner Tractor Parts. Either the IHS 3164 or the IHS 3328. About $75, but has all the parts, throttle shaft, plate, screws, bushings. Choke shaft, plate, screws, bushings, ball, spring seals. Main jet needle, idle jet needle, all screws, all gaskets. For a big help to overhaul the IHC carburetor, get the Red Power Magazine March/April 2019, page 59 to 64, by The Tractor Doctor.
It sure helped me!
Hello from north east Montana!
I'm looking at buying a 1940 a, are the screws in the same location for As?
Not EXACTLY, but it won't take u long to figure it out 👍
Is the main jet 3 turns out on a Farmall B as well? It's a zenith carb. Thanks
Most say idle set at 1.5 turns out from bottom and main jet about 2-3 turns out
I use Seafoam , Carb. fluid cleaner and Premium gas. Blows the crap out.
Me too n yes it does
Yes I have question my sparkplugs are black and I put them in new 6 month
Have you changed the load adjustment? That idle screw only effects the mixture at idle. Are you gettin some black or brownish smoke when you pull the throttle open? If you can't lean it out with the load screw then you will have to lower the float setting. That is adjust so that the valve closes "sooner
(lower fuel level in bowl)