44:06 love your videos. Thank you so much for posting these. I have learned so much from you. I note you talked about having weather of - 10 😂. I wish!! We are at - 48 today. I live in Saskatoon, Saskatchewan.
Yea we are in the "banana belt" of western Montana where in most winters it does not even go below zero at all. We hit -27 which was the coldest in 32 years living here for me and just down the road it was -37. Fahrenheit of course.... So glad you are finding the videos useful!
A cane that size can just cool on the bench although I never lay glass directly on the bench surface but rather I place everything hot on a "rod rest". This started when I was only working with soft glass and any color rod that was used I set down on a rod rest with the hot glass on the far side away from me. This kept me from accidently touching anything hot on the bench, plus soft glass will crack very easily cooling too fast or unevenly.
These are called a "florist frog" and I found them at Michaels art and hobby store. They are intended to hold flower stems in place at the bottom of a vase. Thanks for stopping by!
Hi Bill, I've been looking for the hardware for the drawer pulls, I'm again inspired to make some but haven't worked out which to buy and also how you're mounting it onto the mandrel. Any info would be appreciated, Thank You, and thank you for your videos! Roxy in Northern California
Hey Roxy, First off do not bother with the hot glass direct to metal method. That will crack sooner or later. I build the glass off the end of a 5/32” mandrel (stainless welding rod comes in this size) and then grind them out to fit an 8-23 brass threaded insert like this www.grainger.com/product/Press-Insert-8-32-Thread-Size-4ZU35. I get my diamond bits from widgetsupply.com/ . I glue them in with white marine epoxy and then the next day sand the bottom flat. I make sure the threads run clean before sending them out. I chase the threads with a simple “tap” made by cutting a notch in an 8-32 screw with a hacksaw at an angle lengthwise (hold the screw with vice grips). I use Iso Alcohol when sanding and chasing the threads. Cheers!
Looks like a Nortel Red Max, how many concentrators are you using to run it? I would eventually like to upgrade to a larger torch from my faithful Minor burner, and was thinking about the Bethlehem stacks or the Red Max.... I have one 10lpm, and three 5lpms, would the 10 run it or am I going to have to daisy chain them? I'm digging the soup can roller... :)
I have been running for many years with four 10Lpm all feeding into a large accumulator tank. I do not have any pressure boosting compressor but the tank can act like a boost for a short while with whatever concentrators are running. The red max works fine on "low" pressures but it can blow through a lot of oxygen for sure. No mater what torch you use it is ultimately limited by the oxygen supply , and that determines how much heat it can generate. The Bethlehem stacks seems a good value. We have a Bravo and we like it a lot, and the concentric flame is nice to have. You will want a foot switch also.
I do not have a video with a kiln rundown. Basically the kiln runs at near annealing temperature all day and then is set to complete the full annealing cycle overnight. There are several books such as "Contemporary Lampworking" that you might find very useful to own.
@@mikesfound For just basic borosilicate color rods or clear glass they can go straight into the flame with few problems. Soft glass is different but still not typically pre heated.
The basic flame work glasses are Didymium. Mine are from Phillips such as these here: phillips-safety.com/product-category/glassworking/lampworking-glasses/phillips-202/?page=1. I have some polycarbonate reader lenses attached to the inside and clip on reflective sun shades on top. My torch and scale of work are not as extreme as many other glass workers so this combination works well for my use case. Your milage may vary....
Thank you for sharing. Appreciate your set up. Your views are easy to see
I'm glad you found it helpful!
Thank you for sharing your process.
Thank you for your support! The next video is live Sunday morning 01/12/2025
Been enjoying your videos. Brenda and Glenn from Hallsville Texas
Thank You!
44:06 love your videos. Thank you so much for posting these. I have learned so much from you. I note you talked about having weather of - 10 😂. I wish!! We are at - 48 today. I live in Saskatoon, Saskatchewan.
Yea we are in the "banana belt" of western Montana where in most winters it does not even go below zero at all. We hit -27 which was the coldest in 32 years living here for me and just down the road it was -37. Fahrenheit of course.... So glad you are finding the videos useful!
It’s 110 here in Arizona today 😢
You've made so many videos I've fallen behind sir. I'm loving it. 🎉❤❤. I enjoy watching and trying it myself.
I am so glad we can share what we do and find connection to others. Have a great day!
Muchas Gracias!!! Quedé fascinada y espero algún día lograr hacer una canica similar!!! un sdaludo grande desde Buenos Aires, Argentina
Thank you for watching and best wishes in your work.
How awesome is this video capturing!!!! Thank you for sharing!!!!
Our pleasure!
nice, very bloody nice ,
Thanks for stopping by!
That was outstanding, what a beautiful piece
Thank you for your kind words!
im in new zealand ,, its a lovely 34 dec here
We made it through our cold snap just fine and now it is 33 this morning! Kind of warm but we are in the "banana belt" of Montana.
Did you lay the cane down on your bench or into a kiln?
A cane that size can just cool on the bench although I never lay glass directly on the bench surface but rather I place everything hot on a "rod rest". This started when I was only working with soft glass and any color rod that was used I set down on a rod rest with the hot glass on the far side away from me. This kept me from accidently touching anything hot on the bench, plus soft glass will crack very easily cooling too fast or unevenly.
@@BillRaeShow if it's like 9 inches long do you get cracking in the last bits ? How do you adjust for it
@@mikesfound I have done tons of canes two feet long and have no cracking issues.
Hi what’s that pokey mould called and where can i purchase one
These are called a "florist frog" and I found them at Michaels art and hobby store. They are intended to hold flower stems in place at the bottom of a vase. Thanks for stopping by!
Hi Bill, I've been looking for the hardware for the drawer pulls, I'm again inspired to make some but haven't worked out which to buy and also how you're mounting it onto the mandrel. Any info would be appreciated, Thank You, and thank you for your videos! Roxy in Northern California
Hey Roxy, First off do not bother with the hot glass direct to metal method. That will crack sooner or later. I build the glass off the end of a 5/32” mandrel (stainless welding rod comes in this size) and then grind them out to fit an 8-23 brass threaded insert like this www.grainger.com/product/Press-Insert-8-32-Thread-Size-4ZU35. I get my diamond bits from widgetsupply.com/ . I glue them in with white marine epoxy and then the next day sand the bottom flat. I make sure the threads run clean before sending them out. I chase the threads with a simple “tap” made by cutting a notch in an 8-32 screw with a hacksaw at an angle lengthwise (hold the screw with vice grips). I use Iso Alcohol when sanding and chasing the threads. Cheers!
Looks like a Nortel Red Max, how many concentrators are you using to run it? I would eventually like to upgrade to a larger torch from my faithful Minor burner, and was thinking about the Bethlehem stacks or the Red Max.... I have one 10lpm, and three 5lpms, would the 10 run it or am I going to have to daisy chain them? I'm digging the soup can roller... :)
I have been running for many years with four 10Lpm all feeding into a large accumulator tank. I do not have any pressure boosting compressor but the tank can act like a boost for a short while with whatever concentrators are running. The red max works fine on "low" pressures but it can blow through a lot of oxygen for sure. No mater what torch you use it is ultimately limited by the oxygen supply , and that determines how much heat it can generate. The Bethlehem stacks seems a good value. We have a Bravo and we like it a lot, and the concentric flame is nice to have. You will want a foot switch also.
I need torches to blow glass, I see that they are very expensive, where can I get some that are not so expensive and that work. Thank you so much
Nortel Red Max Surface Mix Lampworking Torch is one of the best bargains out there for a wide range of work. It all depends on what you are making.
I would like to know do you have a video on how to use a kiln in a regular day?
I do not have a video with a kiln rundown. Basically the kiln runs at near annealing temperature all day and then is set to complete the full annealing cycle overnight. There are several books such as "Contemporary Lampworking" that you might find very useful to own.
@@BillRaeShow as you are working do you stick cold glass into the kiln to warm? Does putting cold into hot cause cracking or blowing apart?
@@mikesfound For just basic borosilicate color rods or clear glass they can go straight into the flame with few problems. Soft glass is different but still not typically pre heated.
What type of glasses do you use?
The basic flame work glasses are Didymium. Mine are from Phillips such as these here: phillips-safety.com/product-category/glassworking/lampworking-glasses/phillips-202/?page=1. I have some polycarbonate reader lenses attached to the inside and clip on reflective sun shades on top. My torch and scale of work are not as extreme as many other glass workers so this combination works well for my use case. Your milage may vary....