Відео

I'm glad you liked it!

Thank you for your support! The next video is live Sunday morning 01/12/2025

Thank you for your kind words , have a beautiful day

Thanks for checking out the video. Not sure about the reference to opal encasement, there is no opal in this marble.

I have ordered the Northstar frit mostly from Frantz Art Glass, and what they sell is "small" frit that Northstar calls out as 38 mesh. As a practical matter it will separate in the jar with larger grains on top and fines at the bottom so in effect I start out with a more course frit and by the end of the jar it is much finer. Also each time I use it, the leftover that goes back will be more of the smaller stuff. I kind of like the variation so I don't bother to mix it up but that's just me!

Thanks! I am glad you enjoy them.

This green DID work beautifully on the surface of a marble, and may work inside much smaller marbles. When I began working boro many years ago (I started with soft glass) I thought I would get away from cracking issues. Ha Ha!

You are very welcome, glad you enjoyed the series!

Thank you!

You are very welcome, thank you for your kind words!

I am so glad you liked the collection! I enjoyed making them.

Seems like I have more problems with this when the camera is rolling 😅

Glad to hear you find some value here! 31 years on the torch and I still have much to learn. My instruction has come from books and videos. And of course just doing things my own way and learning from the glass itself. Cheers!

I'm glad you found it helpful!

I'm glad you enjoyed the demo, and the results!

Right? Mind blowing! I ❤ it!

I do not put small diameter canes in the kiln to anneal or pre heat. Sometimes I will carefully heat up a section of cane in the flame before laying it down to make it easier to work with. The gold fume end gets reheated countless times and has lots of stress at the tip so that is a different problem. Thanks for the questions!.

Your support means a lot, thanks for watching!

I have used "Experimental Green" for years in marbles with just a few bad outcomes, but the color does not strike consistently and even when it does will not give a nice rich green. This Glasstronics Green is said to work well both encased as well as on the surface so I am looking forward to working with it. I just wish I had used it by itself in this marble. Cheers!

​@@BillRaeShow I've never deeply encased experimental green, but I stopped trying to encase greens in marbles a while ago. I've had checking occur almost every attempt in any marble over 1", sparkly greens I probably have a 100% fail rate with too.

Love you too sweetheart, Merry Christmas, have a warm and wonderful one <3

Happy Christmas to you too! <3

Thank you for your kind words. The continuous raking I do on the back side comes from a design I use making cabinet knobs. It is not easy and to this day I sometimes have disastrous problems with the glass "tearing" apart instead of flowing together. I think some color combinations are more prone to that. I first did basic feather patterns in soft glass beads, where I would use a butter knife (with a serrated edge) to drag straight alternating direction lines. Using a tungsten pick requires a certain "feel" for the glass to move easily in a goldilocks heat zone. Ideally the pick is not in the flame too much and getting too hot which of course sounds ridiculous! Yeah, the sweet spot. Some tension but not much. I watch other glass artists doing things all the time where it looks so simple, but when I try it clearly I am not doing it right. Perhaps work with small moves out of the flame such as dragging flower petal dots to get more of a feel for using the pick. Sorry if that is TOO simple! Best wishes.

We love our wood stove in the house!

Thanks!!

My pleasure!

The optics can vary a lot, and I am not sure I can explain it all. I do try to give some ideas along the way as to what I am doing that will affect the geometry. Sounds like a topic for a separate video with theoretical cross section drawings.

@@BillRaeShow Yes,I am learning by the trial and error method about the lens geometry and the magnifying effect of the glass and I agree that it is a difficult subject to cover so thanks for your fast response. Thanks again for posting such great content. Steve

Thanks! Have a great day.

Thanks for stopping by! Have a great day.

Don't I know it on both sides of the fence. I seldom win an auction for what I am willing to pay. I do try and have some up there as a buy it now but take offers. Next week we will be getting a lot more work up on our Square space online store. aspen-hot-glass.square.site/

Your support means a lot. Be Well!

Thanks for your support!

My goal is to show the whole process uncut as if it were a livestream. But I also enjoy the video editing steps I use to add the face cam, intro and ending. The video itself becomes another artistic adventure. Thank you for your feedback!

Welcome back! Glad you are enjoying the channel.

We are so glad you found this video valuable! There are of course many previous videos in the Weekly Marble playlist ua-cam.com/play/PLCsDtreVBey0mZmv0t41kFUpc7p1JMSIo.html&si=-eHDnVgAJA35ngQ2

Silver fume turns mostly white for me if it is on there heavy. Very light silver should get more blues but in the past I would go so light it was hardly anything. Gold heavy can look copper against black and pink against white. Layering gold and silver will get more colors but all of it is influenced by the background or if you are looking through it. Honestly I am no expert and my experience relates to marbles and not hollow work where kiln cycles come into play. Best wishes exploring glass!

Thanks for stopping by!

A cane that size can just cool on the bench although I never lay glass directly on the bench surface but rather I place everything hot on a "rod rest". This started when I was only working with soft glass and any color rod that was used I set down on a rod rest with the hot glass on the far side away from me. This kept me from accidently touching anything hot on the bench, plus soft glass will crack very easily cooling too fast or unevenly.

@@BillRaeShow if it's like 9 inches long do you get cracking in the last bits ? How do you adjust for it

@@mikesfound I have done tons of canes two feet long and have no cracking issues.

I do not have a video with a kiln rundown. Basically the kiln runs at near annealing temperature all day and then is set to complete the full annealing cycle overnight. There are several books such as "Contemporary Lampworking" that you might find very useful to own.

@@BillRaeShow as you are working do you stick cold glass into the kiln to warm? Does putting cold into hot cause cracking or blowing apart?

@@mikesfound For just basic borosilicate color rods or clear glass they can go straight into the flame with few problems. Soft glass is different but still not typically pre heated.

I really like this one, it has great depth too!

Glad you liked it!

That was some of the first video I did of my glass work.

Thanks again for your support and kind words. Have a great day!