I’ve watched every UA-cam video out there on how to reinforce my shelterlogic. This is the absolute best, not too complex, sturdy and looks the best of all videos out there !!! Well done, thank you so much !!!
I noticed that you built the structure on a concrete slab. To stop the sides from toeing out, I would recommend securing the base plate to the slab with Hilti bolts and washers. This would make the structure more secure and wind resistant. Nice job, by the way.
I've sat here at work trying to figure out my course of action to replace the canvas cover on my harbor freight cover pro shelter that is 2 years old and starting to crack. This is the solution! I was going to throw a 12mm thick tarp on top but I like this once and done idea!!
thx. appreciate your sharing your video. I can tell there has been a lot of careful and patient work in there. looking forward to seeing what else you will do.
I like this idea as sort of a template for like building a garage onto an older home only as sort of a lean-to shed off of the house itself. Either build it myself and kind of slowly over time frame it with wood so can insuilate or they do make metal studs and such for like office buildings and such for hanging sheet rock.
That is exactly what this was - a template. So many comments on "You could have just built it out of wood". Since the metal frame was in excellent condition why tear it down. Thanks for watching and commenting commenting!
The investment was worth it compared to the replacement that would only last 2 - 3 years. Have made no changes and still standing strong! Thanks for watching and commenting.
I done the same thing with my 10x20 but i had 2 of them so took a few of the extra roof poles and wall poles and ran to autozone and grabbed a pipe expander then i added a 16" piece to each side of the roof poles so now instead of 10 feet wide its now 13 feet wide then instead of having the little over 6 foot side walls i now have 7 feet 8inches on the the sides, then i got really lucky and got a old roll up door from a storage unit that was 8 feet wide by 7 feet tall so i just framed in the end to accept the door, i also pulled in the sides to make them more plumb and i framed in a service door on the side, makes for a great work shop now, now if concrete would just get back into a reasonable price i would cement the floor but for now it is sitting on old pallets with 3/4" osb screwed to the top of the pallets, but over all these portable garages do make for a good metal structure after you are done, great job on yours!
Wow, you went to town on yours compared to what I did. Having the extra height to install a proper garage door sounds sweet. Share a link to a video of it if you cane. Thanks for sharing!
@@thehandyoutdoorsman9014 i have not done any videos on it, i dont really do much for videos other than music and was into games a few years ago, but if i get the chance i will try to pop up a quick little vid and link it for you.
Interesting foam there, I was expecting you to add some flashing around the corners. The whole shelter is a heck of a lot sturdier now that you've added the siding, amazing how much that helps to prevent racking.
Flashing was my first choice then the clerk at the store suggested I use the foam as it was cheaper and easier. So far it is doing great as far as keeping the rain and bugs out, only time will tell. As for the structure, it is solid!!
@@thehandyoutdoorsman9014 I am currently looking into ways to make my Shelter Logic last longer. I just got it this year and would like to beef it up while not upsetting my local building inspector. Living in town can be a drag...
One of the things I did to keep the canvas rom from blowing in the wind to much was to lay 1/8 inch luan panels between the roof poles, stiffened it up a bit.
@@theopiner402 luckily we don't have building inspectors. It's rural zoned. I'm thinking of doing this design but "primitive" style using my backwoods logs. haha.
Nice little shed mod. That should hold out a lot of the winter. Been thinking about building one that size of my own recently. I may try to upgrade a section of my pole barn though, using some ideas from some of your design mods, and pouring some concrete on the mostly dirt floor. Waiting for the ideas on the doors now......
I was able to stand on the roof once completed so I am pretty confident that it will be able to handle the snow load. Having a concrete floor makes a huge difference, really glad we put it in.
@@thehandyoutdoorsman9014 did you ever consider running the roof corrugations the other direction? I know it's more work but would drain the snow rain ice quicker. Just interested in your thought process.
Yes I did and was going to install it that way at first, however bending the metal in that direction was far more difficult at the end that connects into the red siding. I would not have had the smooth transition between the roof and sides without modifications to fill the gap. You are correct that the rain/snow would drain better had I ran the metal in the other direction, but hoping by putting in the caulk between the overlapping pieces it wont leak.
Jason your question about running the panels the other direction has been one of my dilemmas, I live in northern Minnesota so we get a lot of snow and I’m worried that, like on a house it could create ice dams from the sun hitting the metal melting a little snow, it soaking into other snow sitting on those ridges and then freezing. Maybe with no heat in the structure the metal wouldn’t warm enough from just the sun to have the freeze thaw issue, not until spring anyway 🤷♀️? I’m a middle age single woman so this is a big project for me, running the panels the other way would be waaaaaay to much for me to do 🥺 Thanks for asking “my”question 😉😉 So I’m happy he answered and you two solved my problem.....well not completely, I still need to do this and don’t have a man to help me ☹️
@@thehandyoutdoorsman9014 I was wondering about this for the snow sliding off - interesting design to close off the gap between roof and wall. I built a primitive "shed" hut using a double wattle insulated clay-slip hay and so I still have gaps in the corners and between roof and walls. I did fill in with various means. Of course I need some ventilation for the wood stove. haha. Glad I'm not the only one seeing sunlight from the inside.
Thought about doing the same thing , but my don got me 2 big pcs of rubber roofing 10 x13 very heavy got the 1st one by fastening some pvc pipe to the rubber tied some rope to the ends of pipe & threw them over the top & pulled but the rubber didn't want to slide lot of friction not sure if this method will work for 2nd pc.
I understand that the metal sheets oriented this way on the roof is easy to bend them on the sides where they meet the walls, however wouldn't this bad with water shedding or snow shedding? the ridges are not a good idea running like this? Otherwise the structure is really good.
This is a great video, thanks for posting! I have framed mine out and hoping to side it in the coming weeks. Wondering how you accessed the peak of the roof for screwing in the metal? Were you able to reach from a ladder?
Question: I'm just noticing at the last minute of the video to the left (or *your* right) The cuts on the lumber. My Apologies if you explained this elsewhere but are you using notches *and* holes? AT 1st I thought just holes...Then I'm like "oh...notches...ok". lol Thank you in advance.
I have a ten ft. By ten ft.Shelter Logic shed. and about the first ten months it was fine. but now the wind has ripped it apart. It tried to get a hold of the Shelter logic company. to see about getting another cover for it but no luck. maybe something along this route would be the way to go. I have had thought about taking it down but the frame is still in excellent condition. I'm going to have to check into seeing maybe if I can do something similar to this maybe.
I get this question a lot. Due to the ribbing in the metal it can’t be bent to match the curve to meet the sides. So far no issues with snow load or water leaking.
@@jmilz08 No leaks from the roof. I do get water on the floor from the base as the snow builds up from the sides and as it melts it seeps under the base and wicks inside
Great job, unfortunately shelterlogic products are crap. I have the same one you have and mine did not last one season. I am wonderingg how tall yours is? I am 6' myself and I don't believe my center is as high as yours. But not only did my canvass rip in the wind but it twisted the pipes causing them to crease as well. I taped up the canvass tears with 6" wide water tight tape but was dumfounded on how to reinforce the framing. Thank you for the advice I will be following it. 👍
No leaks from the metal - only from the bottom. Where the water runs off the top and sides it seeps underneath the sides to the inside - no standing water but the concrete is damp. What I need to do is build a lean to off each side to divert the water from getting to the concrete.
Im about to attach ondura roof panels composite asphalt lightweight ones onto a similar structure. what did u use to screw through the panels and into the metal tubing? i see you did not screw through the whole metal tubing, so if you dont bolt it through and secure with a bolt on the inside of the tubing, will it not eventually pull the screw/shim on the top, out? ie get loose? would drilling 2 holes in the metal tubing to put a bolt/shim/bolt to secure the panel, would that compromise the strength of the metal tubing if it had 2 holes drilled instead of just using a screw /shim with 1 hole?
In the video it shows that I use 1 inch screws with washers. The metal is very thin so much of the screw is connected into the poles and wood. So far I have not had any issues with the screws not holding, the metal is still securely secured. I am not familiar with the ondura panels.
@@thehandyoutdoorsman9014 Don't know why more contractors wouldn't run these sheets the same way. Save of roof 2x4 laterals. Just mount direct on the truss.
I purchased 7' 2x4's and cut them off where the sides and the tops meet, so I do not have an accurate measurement to give. Also keep in mind that the metal frame was not squared so not every 2x4 was the same height.
Sooo.... the Shetlerlogic is really just a template/guide? Not sure what advantage there is to this, vs just frame a proper shed? Interesting none the less....
Since the frame was already there and still very solid I just built off of that. If you don't have it you could just build a separate frame. Thanks for watching!
I’ve watched every UA-cam video out there on how to reinforce my shelterlogic. This is the absolute best, not too complex, sturdy and looks the best of all videos out there !!!
Well done, thank you so much !!!
Glad this video was informative for you. Thanks for watching and commenting.
You had me at Red siding. But what a great solution to year round changes in seasonal temperatures and snow! 🇺🇸👍🏻
So far it has worked out great, no snow issues!!
I noticed that you built the structure on a concrete slab. To stop the sides from toeing out, I would recommend securing the base plate to the slab with Hilti bolts and washers. This would make the structure more secure and wind resistant. Nice job, by the way.
Nice workmanship - respectable looking shed.
@@ucandoit8362 thank you, much appreciated.
Thanks for showing the inside. That foam on the inside looks like it’ll hold out all the weather. Great idea
Saved a lot of time in not filling all of those spaces. I will have to come back and fill the gaps with some spray foam but 97% of the shed is sealed.
I've sat here at work trying to figure out my course of action to replace the canvas cover on my harbor freight cover pro shelter that is 2 years old and starting to crack. This is the solution! I was going to throw a 12mm thick tarp on top but I like this once and done idea!!
You did a great job. This really came out nicely. What an upgrade from a tarp covering to the sheet metal. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻🇺🇸
Thank you! Glad I did this, as it is working out great.
Ĺooks nice😊
@@rubinbrown8142 Thank You
Excellent job man. I'll do the same. Thanks for sharing this.
Your welcome - thanks for watching!
well done Canada
@@vintage-jm2fv Thank you.
thx. appreciate your sharing your video. I can tell there has been a lot of careful and patient work in there. looking forward to seeing what else you will do.
Thank you for watching and commenting!
Great job
Thank You
Best build up I’ve seen. Thanks
Thank you!
I like this idea as sort of a template for like building a garage onto an older home only as sort of a lean-to shed off of the house itself. Either build it myself and kind of slowly over time frame it with wood so can insuilate or they do make metal studs and such for like office buildings and such for hanging sheet rock.
That is exactly what this was - a template. So many comments on "You could have just built it out of wood". Since the metal frame was in excellent condition why tear it down. Thanks for watching and commenting commenting!
I'm going to try this this weekend. Hopefully it works 💪
@@douglasw6474 good luck 👍
This should hold up here in South Dakota pretty good I have been thinking of doing something like this
The investment was worth it compared to the replacement that would only last 2 - 3 years. Have made no changes and still standing strong! Thanks for watching and commenting.
Great work
Thank you.
That came out really nice, great job.
Thank you. I too am pleased with the results. Sometimes the design in my head does not come out exactly as planned. Thanks for watching!
I done the same thing with my 10x20 but i had 2 of them so took a few of the extra roof poles and wall poles and ran to autozone and grabbed a pipe expander then i added a 16" piece to each side of the roof poles so now instead of 10 feet wide its now 13 feet wide then instead of having the little over 6 foot side walls i now have 7 feet 8inches on the the sides, then i got really lucky and got a old roll up door from a storage unit that was 8 feet wide by 7 feet tall so i just framed in the end to accept the door, i also pulled in the sides to make them more plumb and i framed in a service door on the side, makes for a great work shop now, now if concrete would just get back into a reasonable price i would cement the floor but for now it is sitting on old pallets with 3/4" osb screwed to the top of the pallets, but over all these portable garages do make for a good metal structure after you are done, great job on yours!
Wow, you went to town on yours compared to what I did. Having the extra height to install a proper garage door sounds sweet. Share a link to a video of it if you cane. Thanks for sharing!
@@thehandyoutdoorsman9014 i have not done any videos on it, i dont really do much for videos other than music and was into games a few years ago, but if i get the chance i will try to pop up a quick little vid and link it for you.
Interesting foam there, I was expecting you to add some flashing around the corners. The whole shelter is a heck of a lot sturdier now that you've added the siding, amazing how much that helps to prevent racking.
Flashing was my first choice then the clerk at the store suggested I use the foam as it was cheaper and easier. So far it is doing great as far as keeping the rain and bugs out, only time will tell. As for the structure, it is solid!!
@@thehandyoutdoorsman9014 I am currently looking into ways to make my Shelter Logic last longer. I just got it this year and would like to beef it up while not upsetting my local building inspector. Living in town can be a drag...
One of the things I did to keep the canvas rom from blowing in the wind to much was to lay 1/8 inch luan panels between the roof poles, stiffened it up a bit.
@@thehandyoutdoorsman9014 Thank you for the suggestion!
@@theopiner402 luckily we don't have building inspectors. It's rural zoned. I'm thinking of doing this design but "primitive" style using my backwoods logs. haha.
Nice job, looks great!
Buckdragger, completely missed your comments, my apologies. Thank you!
Awesome job!
Thank you sir. Glad you enjoyed it.
Nice little shed mod. That should hold out a lot of the winter. Been thinking about building one that size of my own recently. I may try to upgrade a section of my pole barn though, using some ideas from some of your design mods, and pouring some concrete on the mostly dirt floor. Waiting for the ideas on the doors now......
I was able to stand on the roof once completed so I am pretty confident that it will be able to handle the snow load. Having a concrete floor makes a huge difference, really glad we put it in.
@@thehandyoutdoorsman9014 did you ever consider running the roof corrugations the other direction? I know it's more work but would drain the snow rain ice quicker. Just interested in your thought process.
Yes I did and was going to install it that way at first, however bending the metal in that direction was far more difficult at the end that connects into the red siding. I would not have had the smooth transition between the roof and sides without modifications to fill the gap. You are correct that the rain/snow would drain better had I ran the metal in the other direction, but hoping by putting in the caulk between the overlapping pieces it wont leak.
Jason your question about running the panels the other direction has been one of my dilemmas, I live in northern Minnesota so we get a lot of snow and I’m worried that, like on a house it could create ice dams from the sun hitting the metal melting a little snow, it soaking into other snow sitting on those ridges and then freezing. Maybe with no heat in the structure the metal wouldn’t warm enough from just the sun to have the freeze thaw issue, not until spring anyway 🤷♀️?
I’m a middle age single woman so this is a big project for me, running the panels the other way would be waaaaaay to much for me to do 🥺
Thanks for asking “my”question 😉😉 So I’m happy he answered and you two solved my problem.....well not completely, I still need to do this and don’t have a man to help me ☹️
@@thehandyoutdoorsman9014 I was wondering about this for the snow sliding off - interesting design to close off the gap between roof and wall. I built a primitive "shed" hut using a double wattle insulated clay-slip hay and so I still have gaps in the corners and between roof and walls. I did fill in with various means. Of course I need some ventilation for the wood stove. haha. Glad I'm not the only one seeing sunlight from the inside.
Thought about doing the same thing , but my don got me 2 big pcs of rubber roofing 10 x13 very heavy got the 1st one by fastening some pvc pipe to the rubber tied some rope to the ends of pipe & threw them over the top & pulled but the rubber didn't want to slide lot of friction not sure if this method will work for 2nd pc.
I understand that the metal sheets oriented this way on the roof is easy to bend them on the sides where they meet the walls, however wouldn't this bad with water shedding or snow shedding? the ridges are not a good idea running like this? Otherwise the structure is really good.
@DeepSouthOverlander you are correct, this was the easiest way without putting in a different truss system
Very cool
Thank you !
Excellent work! Where did you get the metal siding and did you make the foam shaped corner inserts? Thank you!
Thank you! All materials came from Menards.com
👍 good job
Thank you. Glad you enjoyed it !!
I seen a lot of guys putting the panels on roof with ridges wrong way.
It starting to make me feel like I shouldn’t worry about it.
BUT I CANT!
looks kind of like pre-installed snow stops
This is a great video, thanks for posting! I have framed mine out and hoping to side it in the coming weeks. Wondering how you accessed the peak of the roof for screwing in the metal? Were you able to reach from a ladder?
Because of the extra framing the roof was very solid to climb on and I was able to climb on top with no issues. Glad you enjoyed the video!
Question: I'm just noticing at the last minute of the video to the left (or *your* right) The cuts on the lumber. My Apologies if you explained this elsewhere but are you using notches *and* holes? AT 1st I thought just holes...Then I'm like "oh...notches...ok". lol Thank you in advance.
I am using holes at the top and notches on the bottom.
@@thehandyoutdoorsman9014 *That* is what I assumed after noticing this. Huge Thank you, Brother! Have a great day!!
You can buy self tapping metal to metal color matched screws
Not that I am aware of, was not able to find then. Was not really a big deal to use the punch to create a pilot hole.
I have a ten ft. By ten ft.Shelter Logic shed. and about the first ten months it was fine. but now the wind has ripped it apart. It tried to get a hold of the Shelter logic company. to see about getting another cover for it but no luck. maybe something along this route would be the way to go. I have had thought about taking it down but the frame is still in excellent condition. I'm going to have to check into seeing maybe if I can do something similar to this maybe.
A little planning with some trial and error and you can do it. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Shouldn’t the roof be the other direction so snow can slide off
Would have been more work to frame it out to go different direction. So far no issues with snow build up - slides right off.
Shouldn’t the metal roof lay the other way ? ( actually wondering )for the roof at least
I get this question a lot. Due to the ribbing in the metal it can’t be bent to match the curve to meet the sides. So far no issues with snow load or water leaking.
@@thehandyoutdoorsman9014 okay thanks . So water doesn’t leak / drip really inside
No - I put a bead of caulk where each piece over laps - have since discovered Butle tape - works far better.
@@jmilz08 No leaks from the roof. I do get water on the floor from the base as the snow builds up from the sides and as it melts it seeps under the base and wicks inside
Great job, unfortunately shelterlogic products are crap. I have the same one you have and mine did not last one season. I am wonderingg how tall yours is? I am 6' myself and I don't believe my center is as high as yours. But not only did my canvass rip in the wind but it twisted the pipes causing them to crease as well. I taped up the canvass tears with 6" wide water tight tape but was dumfounded on how to reinforce the framing. Thank you for the advice I will be following it. 👍
Glad the videos were helpful,
How did this hold up to rain? Does it leak anywhere?
No leaks from the metal - only from the bottom. Where the water runs off the top and sides it seeps underneath the sides to the inside - no standing water but the concrete is damp. What I need to do is build a lean to off each side to divert the water from getting to the concrete.
Im about to attach ondura roof panels composite asphalt lightweight ones onto a similar structure. what did u use to screw through the panels and into the metal tubing? i see you did not screw through the whole metal tubing, so if you dont bolt it through and secure with a bolt on the inside of the tubing, will it not eventually pull the screw/shim on the top, out? ie get loose? would drilling 2 holes in the metal tubing to put a bolt/shim/bolt to secure the panel, would that compromise the strength of the metal tubing if it had 2 holes drilled instead of just using a screw /shim with 1 hole?
In the video it shows that I use 1 inch screws with washers. The metal is very thin so much of the screw is connected into the poles and wood. So far I have not had any issues with the screws not holding, the metal is still securely secured. I am not familiar with the ondura panels.
@@thehandyoutdoorsman9014 ok thnx
Nice!!... I'm curious.... I need permit for built this in my rear yard?
That depends on your local code and building allowances. Where I am at there are no restrictions.
Try some of that sticky duct seal it like silly pudding but very sticky like mastic tape
Are you referring to "Butile tape"?
@@thehandyoutdoorsman9014 im sorry I have small box in work van it came from hvac parts house on a wax paper roll
How many metal screws and washers did you use? Approximetly?
Bags were 50 per bag, used less then 2 bags.
Some diagonal wind braces would take any movement away
By the time I am finish, all of the racking is fixed.
Are those metal panels from Shelter Logic or from your local store?
They are from Menards. Other big box stores carry them as well.
So the water runs off the roof ok?
yes it does. between the chaulk and butle tape no leaks between the seams
@@thehandyoutdoorsman9014 Don't know why more contractors wouldn't run these sheets the same way. Save of roof 2x4 laterals. Just mount direct on the truss.
Perhaps the look? If the building was more square I would have mounted the metal vertical vs horizontal. Still, this worked and looks decent 😉
Where get siding ??
All supplies came from menards.com
Where u get panels
Menards
Why not strap it back? The other way and stand your sheets up and down same with the roof strap the roof and put your sheets going up and down
Approx cost of siding?
Watch part III for cost
What are the measurements of the 2x4s and cuts? I want to frame out my shelter logic for more support
I purchased 7' 2x4's and cut them off where the sides and the tops meet, so I do not have an accurate measurement to give. Also keep in mind that the metal frame was not squared so not every 2x4 was the same height.
@@thehandyoutdoorsman9014 okay thanks I’ll figure it out👍🏼👍🏼
Sooo.... the Shetlerlogic is really just a template/guide? Not sure what advantage there is to this, vs just frame a proper shed? Interesting none the less....
Since the frame was already there and still very solid I just built off of that. If you don't have it you could just build a separate frame. Thanks for watching!
Rain/ leaves/ etc
Cant slide off
I HATE IT
Where to buy red metal?
Menards.com
Nothing worse than having to remove a tarp and then retarp a tractor each time you want to use it...
You got that right. Having a permanent structure is the way to go. Even when the tent was solid it was easy to store things in. Thanks for watching!