It’s refreshing to watch a professional mechanic do work in a home garage without specialized tools and lift. I appreciate how you show your work. Thank you so much!
I set up my rear end in my project truck. First and last time. My OCD combined with my lack of patience when taking it in and out 27 times got the best of me. Doesn’t make noise though, so I guess that’s a plus. You make it look way too easy 🤘
Good how to video, I have been watching you since your start on PN. This is how you properly make a instructional video. This proves you do not need a big production company to make it happen. I hope the best for your UA-cam channel.
i can tell you that i have been looking at How-To vids for the last 3 days.... and this is By Far the best vid I've come across! everything is explained in detail, your vid captured all the steps, and the way you explained Pinion Depth and Backlash was the most understandable! We'll be working on my father in law's 97 Chevy Cheyenne and I'll be showing him this vid so he can get a better understanding of pinion depth and backlash! Thanks for the vid!!!
LT, found you three years ago when I was looking for an OBS Chevy. Got it last year and bit by bit I've been getting things I dreamed after watching your vids. Psyching myself up to re-gear and add my Posi in the morning!
These 10 bolt rears are surprisingly simple. I regeared my pickup a couple years back. Grabbed some used gears from a Suburban. It had a good locking carrier and pinion but the SUVs have coil perches instead of leaf perches. Ended up getting a spare truck diff and set it up on a set of saw horses. Tore the truck diff apart and set everything to the side. Put the SUV guts into the truck housing and tightened everything down with an impact until it felt pretty good. Over 5000 miles on it and no signs of failure. Great video. Very informative and straight forward.
Thank you for a video that actually SHOWS how to set the pinion pre-load instead of just talking about it. I love your idea with the modified pinion bearings for selecting the shims.
Sweet idea using a modified test pinion bearing when using a crush sleeve to keep from wrecking the bearing. I'm doing a complete rear end rebuild on my Z71 Sierra soon, but I'll be using a crush sleeve eliminator in mine so I can install the new pinion bearing and not have to remove it anymore to adjust pinion preload. Crush sleeve eliminator takes a little longer to set up because of the shims, but it's way more convenient if you ever have to remove the pinion or replace the pinion seal😎.
Simple straight forward video. I’m getting ready to tackle my 2000 Silverado. It already has a truetrac with 3.73 swapping to 4.30s with a 33 inch tire
Great video!! The techs at my work always have me look up the diff parts since I usually remember everything they forget haha. Same with a lot of the Powerstroke quotes.
Amazing detail video! annnd.. yup.... i'll just stick to the motor stuff... thank you for convincing me not to do this myself! Seriously, thank you! Every other video had me feeling pretty comfortable. The 13 dislikes were all folks you pissed off making them realize they can't do this job either!
Awesome video. It’s all still Greek to me but very interesting. I swapped in 3.73 to replace 3.42 on my 96 Tahoe and added a Truetrac and really like how it added a little pep to it and the limited slip works great.
Before I take any more axles apart I am going to do a pattern on the ring BEFORE removal and I will measure my pinion depth to verify it's position in the housing BEFORE I remove it. This will save you a lot of problems later. Shimming is a breeze when you know your depth for sure. I pulled apart a DANA 41 from a jeep and NO ONE can tell me the the standard pinion depth of the housing. Had I measured it before removal I would have saved about 10 hours of trial and error.
Most ring come with a number wrote on them. That number can remove the trial and error from installation. I learned this after many diffs and wish i knew much sooner. You can remove original pinion and the shim behind that bearing pressed on is critical. If your ring says +2 you and the shim is .022" you install a 0.24" shim, and of course check that measurement. If the ring says -2 you install a 0.20". I like that process you use for checking that measurement by sanding the bearings.
Best explanation methods for this rebuild I've seen, yet. The separation of this job in two parts (the pinion depth as one job... then the gear lash as the next), makes great sense. What may seem like a daunting job you explained in a way any good teacher should be able to. How difficult is it to better secure the axles in case of a failure incident? I'm not afraid of this job at all anymore, thanks in part to this simple quick wrap-up 👍 I do like the idea of having more security on the axle shafts than just c-clips, as well. Thanks for the help. Cheers.
Jegs has a different style of pinion depth gauge that comes with the dial indicator for around $90. That would likely reduce the number of times you have to reinstall the pinion.
Hey there great video and very well explained! I was wondering if at 8:00 when finding pinion depth would you use the crush sleeve on the pinion shaft when correcting gear pattern or only use the crush sleeve during final install? cheers!
I like my Ford 9in. I can swap gears out in about an hour it's normally got the 4.11 3rd member in it. I have 2 more both higher. My 2007 1 ton chevy 3500HD has 4.10 stock a limited slip carrier and at 70 mph I'm turning 2300 rpm's. I get around 14 miles per gallon on the highway.
I'm trying to figure out how to replace the gears themselves in the center area, the 4 in the middle. I've got the gears themselves but I can't get the top and bottom ones into the housing.
The 7.6 IFS in my Colorado needs new bearings . If only replacing bearings , not ring and pinion or the carrier , can I just use the original shim under the new pinion bearing as is the most common practice that I see for setting the depth ? Great information by the way .
thats the way I would do it, as in theory the new bearings will have the same dimensions as the original ones did when they were new, and you're not changing anything if you re-use the original gears and carrier. Would be a good idea to run a pattern check just to be sure tho...
Great instructional video. I'm looking at doing this by myself for the first time coming up soon. How much time would you recommend budgeting for a job like this for a first timer?
Hey man so I’ve got 3.73 gears stock and I’m just wanting to do an LSD from ridged axle can I just pull the stock on out and put the new one in without checking it reason is I had it welded and it broke
Just picked up a 2006 5.3 crew cab I got 456s cause I tow a enclosed trailer to the desert with my toys in it it’s got 373s in it right now and 33x12.50.17 setup will the 456s wake the truck up a lot or is it even worth it ?
I want to do this to my 2007 Silverado. I’ve never rebuilt a rear differential before. Do you think a 12 ton HarborFreight h frame press will get the job done. I looks like that’s all I’ll need to buy besides parts obviously.
all you have to do to setup pinion depth thats way easier ..pinions are etched with numbers , so old gears ...take that number and add or subtract from the new gears etched numbers on pinion thgen add or subtract the difference and you are set to move on to next steps
Would you know why my 14 bolt SF keeps going bad? I get it fixed but then a few months later it starts to make a grinding sound only when I’m off the gas.
Hi LT Fast question. When you are measuring pinion bearing pre-load you said at 10:32 "Drag is measured with an empty housing. But to get pinion depth you need everything in place. I just want to be clear? When you are ready to put the pinion in for the last time you remove the carrier assembly and measure drag and continue to tighten the pinion/nut until you get into the proper range. Right? You did not show it but how did you hold that yoke in place while you accurately tighten the pinion nut? That pinion has to remain still or you will not get a good torque value. Thanks
I determine the correct pinion depth with the carrier in place, by reading the gear contact pattern, usually with several different attempts to get it right. During mock up to check said pattern, pinion bearing preload isn't important, just tighten the nut until there is no play and the pinion turns very slight effort. Then, on final assembly, you install the pinion, correct shim, final bearings, seal, yoke, crush collar and nut, and tighten the nut until the crush sleeve compresses and rotational drag is increased (with no carrier in place) until it reaches specification. You can use a yoke holding tool and a long breaker bar to manually tighten the nut, or the faster but riskier option is to use an impact gun. This can work, but its extremely easy to over tighten the pinion nut and get too much pinion drag, and if that happens, you need to disassemble and replace the crush sleeve. Once you have the pinion nut tight with drag set, you can then install the carrier for the final time, and verify backlash is correct.
@@LawrenceTolman Fantastic! Thank you for taking the time to answer my questions. I just purchased a Truetrac for my 1971 Camaro. I know you like them and you are hard on the equipment (for speed) and I have never heard you say you broke one! So I figured if 1,000+HP is OK 300-400HP is fine too. The rearend ratio is currently a 3.08 so changing the gear too. Hard to do a burnout with a 3.08 :)
@@LawrenceTolman Thanks for getting back to me I was wondering by deducting 5 thousands on pinion dept ,How many thousands would it add or deduct on backlash ?
Do you have any carrier preload? It seams like it didn't take you any effort to slip it into the housing between the shims. I put the same carrier in my truck and I like it.
I’m looking into regearing my ‘18. With only 40k miles would I still need to get all new bearings and seals or can everything be reused if it’s not worn out? Ring a pinion sets are only a hair over $100 on rockauto right now but they don’t come with anything else
in theory, yes as long as you can remove the stock pinion bearings from the pinion without damaging them. I have done it before, but my preference is to just get new bearings. In your case if you are just re-gearing and not swapping the carrier, you could get away with just new pinion bearings, and re-use the carrier bearings.
Great info on changing gears. Big fan of the 4l80.I have never found out if the 4l80 is an overdrive 400. They used to sell reduced 1and 2 gearsets for those. Would it work in the 4l80?? And how about the 6 speed kit for the 4l80?? Love to see a grudge race with your duramax , turbo 5.3, coperhead, srt10, and this beast. Idk who would win.
High LT Another quick question. I pulled the OEM shim from underneath pinion and it's stamped .038 and verified. From your experience, how much deviation should I expect from .038 when installing a new Yukon ring and pinion set. For some reason I can't get a nice "centered" football pattern. The pattern just seems to stay at the toe no matter what shim I put in. After about 10 times I am doing something wrong. I'm worn out Buddy lifting and removing that center section :) I tripled checked to make certain that both pinion bearing races were fully seated. Naturally anytime I make a shim change to the pinion I go back and measure backlash and adjust back to .006"-009" as recommended by Yukon? Prior to removal of the original carrier the backlash measured was .007". Do you have any suggestions? Thanks Buddy and I hope all is well!!
if you have the original pinion bearing (big end) make sure the new bearing you have is the same thickness... I've had some new bearings come in a rebuild kit that are way thicker which makes it impossible to get the pattern right. but to answer your question, usually every rear I end up doing is within 10 to 20 thousandths of the OEM shim...
@@LawrenceTolman Well I got it done minus the axles. Will do that tomorrow. The rebuild kit came with Timken bearings. I did as you suggested and the National OEM bearing was within .002 of the Timken. So to make them exact I used a .040 shim with the new pinion. I did go over the pinion preload by just a tad. Upper end of spec says 19 in/lbs I hit 22in/lbs. It was at 12 in/lbs and that is too low for new bearings. So I grunted on it just a hair and went over. In the counter clockwise direction it's 15in/lbs. Go figure? Average - 18.5in/lbs. Backspacing is .007 and the pattern looks OK now. Not perfect but I think OK.
I know this was made a while ago, so I’m not sure if you’ll see this, but I wanted to know - I’m installing 4.56 gears in my Silverado (same model and year) and I don’t have a dial indicator to check backlash. Is there any way at all I can go off of the gear pattern in order to check for backlash, or is the (expensive 👎🏼) indicator necessary?
You could in theory go off a pattern to set backlash, or even by feel if you’ve done a couple before, but of course the best way is to use a dial indicator
@@LawrenceTolman Thank you for the response!!! I’m currently 3 hours in to the job, lol, and didn’t manage to land an indicator. Hopefully I’ll be fine with the pattern, but if not I learned an expensive lesson. Thanks again :)
the only major difference wold be setting the pinion depth with shims on the pinion support instead of behind the pinion bearing. but the same principals apply...
Have a built 468 in a 83 blazer, original 10 bolt and 4l60 lasted about 2 months then both scattered at the same time. Looked like a bomb went off in the trans. Was driving 20 mph taking son to school when it went.
How do I know my setup bearing and the real bearing are going to give me the same pinion depth because different brands can be a little different. And can I use the setup bearings for the final bearings.
no, you don't want to use the setup bearings as the final bearing, it would spin on the pinion shaft and cause premature wear. If you buy two of the same bearing, it should be very close if not exactly the same. (or it has been in my experience)
Had a question Lawrence, after you made your 'set-up bearings' and you reinstalled them to get the gear pattern check, did you use the old crush ring or did you use a new crush ring? Or did you NOT use a crush ring at all to get the gear pattern? Thanks for the help bro!
Anyone with experience tell me what would be the best gear set up for my 2015 5.3 Silverado . I have a 6 in suspension lift, I run 35/12.50/20s. I’m looking to get more power on the low end . Pretty sure I’m running 373 gears currently. Not bad but sluggish .
great video! But I find it very very hard to believe that you pressed the last outer pinion bearing on with a pipe and a hammer with nothing holding it in except your hand. How did you actually get it on? Impact?
I showed exactly how it went on, I always use a hammer and pipe to get the outer pinion bearing started onto the pinion gear. those outer bearings don't fit quite as tight as the inner ones do, and as long as you can get it slid on far enough to where you can get the yoke and pinion nut on, you're good to go.
I want to gear to 4.10 I was planning on running 315 tires what’s your option on that combo also could I regear to 4.10 and run stock size tire 255 . Note I have the 4l60e
no, the first step is to set pinion depth, but each time you make an adjustment to pinion depth, you may need to re adjust backlash to get it within spec.
It’s refreshing to watch a professional mechanic do work in a home garage without specialized tools and lift. I appreciate how you show your work. Thank you so much!
Glad to help
His voice and presentation sounds like the pros on TV. Glad i found this
I don't know why, but your personal videos are so much more interesting, than PN ones. Keep doing it, mate!
Glad you like them!
He speaks well. He speaks very well in fact.
@@LawrenceTolman how long do u think it would take to regear a 2011 z71 tahoe 4×4 on 37 inch tires with a 10 inch lift thank u
@@ufcfightnight790
38min 25sec....
One the best how to videos I have seen on you-tube
Thanks so much!!
I set up my rear end in my project truck. First and last time. My OCD combined with my lack of patience when taking it in and out 27 times got the best of me. Doesn’t make noise though, so I guess that’s a plus. You make it look way too easy 🤘
Oh believe me, there’s plenty of in and out still going on. I think total on this one I had 7 or 8 different attempts
Good how to video, I have been watching you since your start on PN. This is how you properly make a instructional video. This proves you do not need a big production company to make it happen. I hope the best for your UA-cam channel.
i can tell you that i have been looking at How-To vids for the last 3 days.... and this is By Far the best vid I've come across! everything is explained in detail, your vid captured all the steps, and the way you explained Pinion Depth and Backlash was the most understandable! We'll be working on my father in law's 97 Chevy Cheyenne and I'll be showing him this vid so he can get a better understanding of pinion depth and backlash! Thanks for the vid!!!
Thanks for the kind words! Hope it’ll help with your install.
LT, found you three years ago when I was looking for an OBS Chevy. Got it last year and bit by bit I've been getting things I dreamed after watching your vids. Psyching myself up to re-gear and add my Posi in the morning!
These 10 bolt rears are surprisingly simple. I regeared my pickup a couple years back. Grabbed some used gears from a Suburban. It had a good locking carrier and pinion but the SUVs have coil perches instead of leaf perches. Ended up getting a spare truck diff and set it up on a set of saw horses. Tore the truck diff apart and set everything to the side. Put the SUV guts into the truck housing and tightened everything down with an impact until it felt pretty good. Over 5000 miles on it and no signs of failure. Great video. Very informative and straight forward.
Thank you for a video that actually SHOWS how to set the pinion pre-load instead of just talking about it. I love your idea with the modified pinion bearings for selecting the shims.
No problem, and thanks for watching!
L.T. found you when searching 4l60 to 4l80 swap, great content and helps with my 08 Tahoe with LS-3, Magnuson TVS2300, and now 4L80 keep it up
Awesome! Thank you!
LT! Long time fan, first time rear differential builder. Thanks for the much needed step-by-step! Keep rockin'
You bet!
You’ve still got your trucks personality going on LOL. You’re a great instructor LT.
Sweet idea using a modified test pinion bearing when using a crush sleeve to keep from wrecking the bearing. I'm doing a complete rear end rebuild on my Z71 Sierra soon, but I'll be using a crush sleeve eliminator in mine so I can install the new pinion bearing and not have to remove it anymore to adjust pinion preload. Crush sleeve eliminator takes a little longer to set up because of the shims, but it's way more convenient if you ever have to remove the pinion or replace the pinion seal😎.
Dude, you have a great voice, and a great way of explaining things. You should have your segment on PowerNationTV.
Great video bro. Thank You
I loved this whole series! Thanks for doing all of this
sure thing!
very well explained, easy to follow.... awesome demontration thanks man makes it less scary to achieve good results!!
Simple straight forward video. I’m getting ready to tackle my 2000 Silverado. It already has a truetrac with 3.73 swapping to 4.30s with a 33 inch tire
it'll definitely wake the truck up!
Great video!! The techs at my work always have me look up the diff parts since I usually remember everything they forget haha. Same with a lot of the Powerstroke quotes.
Great video LT. Thanks for showing us how it is done.
No problem 👍
wow i love these videos, i hope this channel grows big! keep it up "LT"
I hope so too! thanks for watching
Amazing detail video! annnd.. yup.... i'll just stick to the motor stuff... thank you for convincing me not to do this myself! Seriously, thank you! Every other video had me feeling pretty comfortable. The 13 dislikes were all folks you pissed off making them realize they can't do this job either!
Awesome video. It’s all still Greek to me but very interesting. I swapped in 3.73 to replace 3.42 on my 96 Tahoe and added a Truetrac and really like how it added a little pep to it and the limited slip works great.
Before I take any more axles apart I am going to do a pattern on the ring BEFORE removal and I will measure my pinion depth to verify it's position in the housing BEFORE I remove it. This will save you a lot of problems later. Shimming is a breeze when you know your depth for sure. I pulled apart a DANA 41 from a jeep and NO ONE can tell me the the standard pinion depth of the housing. Had I measured it before removal I would have saved about 10 hours of trial and error.
Great idea. I have never heard someons say rhis before.
When you said I actually had to do it a few more times, I felt that. Which that is the reason I watched the video😭
Great content brother! I appreciate you taking the time!
Damn I didn’t know you had your own channel! Stoked I found ya brother and time to binge a few videos!
thanks for stopping by, glad you found the channel!
Great video! I have this rear end and I was reluctant to regear it because I haven't had the best of luck with my 12 bolt in my 68.
thanks! re-gearing is a pain I'll admit
@@LawrenceTolman The nice thing is you were honest about the trial and error on how to set it up. Thats the hardest part
You definitely mastered the video editing 😁 Awesome content!! 🔥🔥🔥👁️👁️👍👍👏🏼🙌🏼👌👌
thanks!
Exquisite how to video. You explain from beginning to end in detail. Greatly appreciated!!
thanks, made things much clearer than other vids.
Most ring come with a number wrote on them. That number can remove the trial and error from installation. I learned this after many diffs and wish i knew much sooner. You can remove original pinion and the shim behind that bearing pressed on is critical. If your ring says +2 you and the shim is .022" you install a 0.24" shim, and of course check that measurement. If the ring says -2 you install a 0.20". I like that process you use for checking that measurement by sanding the bearings.
Ugly is gonna make plenty of smoke now! 😎
You are a great teacher and I’m really grateful for this video. Thankyou
thanks!
Best explanation methods for this rebuild I've seen, yet. The separation of this job in two parts (the pinion depth as one job... then the gear lash as the next), makes great sense. What may seem like a daunting job you explained in a way any good teacher should be able to. How difficult is it to better secure the axles in case of a failure incident? I'm not afraid of this job at all anymore, thanks in part to this simple quick wrap-up 👍 I do like the idea of having more security on the axle shafts than just c-clips, as well.
Thanks for the help. Cheers.
Awesome video! I would definitely be spending more money on parts had not been for this video. Thank you.
Best gear setup video I’ve seen. Thanks so much!,,
Great video, always shy’d away from doin gears.... I think I could do it now, thanx!
You can do it! just take your time and be meticulous. rushing always leads to errors
Best at home video ever.
Great job man, will be doin this on my '13 GMC Sierra 1500 with a Yukon Positrac and 3:73 gears. Thanks for the tips and the step by step!!
Glad to help
Great video this always confused me but I have a definite understanding now
Hey Boss thanks for the video you really broke it down simple for me.
Glad to hear it!
Jegs has a different style of pinion depth gauge that comes with the dial indicator for around $90. That would likely reduce the number of times you have to reinstall the pinion.
Very very helpful and very understandable explanation ,thank you very much.
Glad it was helpful!
Thought I might try and attempt this myself. Nevermind
This is so well detailed good job on a instructional video!
thanks!!
Thank you for the video and all the great advice.
Hey there great video and very well explained! I was wondering if at 8:00 when finding pinion depth would you use the crush sleeve on the pinion shaft when correcting gear pattern or only use the crush sleeve during final install? cheers!
I like my Ford 9in. I can swap gears out in about an hour it's normally got the 4.11 3rd member in it. I have 2 more both higher. My 2007 1 ton chevy 3500HD has 4.10 stock a limited slip carrier and at 70 mph I'm turning 2300 rpm's. I get around 14 miles per gallon on the highway.
What about carrier bearing preload? I thought when all said and done you add .004 to each side bearing to load them up then it's complete?
Man I want to do this. I need to build up the courage and the money.
Good evening which is best to go with USA standard or Yukon gears ?
That truck is going to be so fun with 430s and a trutrac
I’m hoping so
Great video. Wouldn't using the old bearing races like that at 10:04 possibly damage the new roller bearings or cage?
I'm trying to figure out how to replace the gears themselves in the center area, the 4 in the middle. I've got the gears themselves but I can't get the top and bottom ones into the housing.
im watching this and thinking to myself "You know what, this is my daily, I'll just pay someone to do it" lol
The 7.6 IFS in my Colorado needs new bearings . If only replacing bearings , not ring and pinion or the carrier , can I just use the original shim under the new pinion bearing as is the most common practice that I see for setting the depth ? Great information by the way .
thats the way I would do it, as in theory the new bearings will have the same dimensions as the original ones did when they were new, and you're not changing anything if you re-use the original gears and carrier. Would be a good idea to run a pattern check just to be sure tho...
@@LawrenceTolman Thanks LT !!
Great instructional video. I'm looking at doing this by myself for the first time coming up soon. How much time would you recommend budgeting for a job like this for a first timer?
for your first time rebuilding an axle and re-gearing, probably a couple days
@@LawrenceTolman , great feedback. I've got a couple of days off coming up. I'll see if I can get it knocked out in two days. Thank you!
? I have a 2003 chevy 1500 short bed pu 2wd are the axles 28 spline or 30. Motor is a 5.3 with 4l60e. Thanks
Hey man so I’ve got 3.73 gears stock and I’m just wanting to do an LSD from ridged axle can I just pull the stock on out and put the new one in without checking it reason is I had it welded and it broke
Suggest replacing backing plates/dust shield while axle out.
shouldve
Didn’t look like there was enough rust to warrant that
Just picked up a 2006 5.3 crew cab I got 456s cause I tow a enclosed trailer to the desert with my toys in it it’s got 373s in it right now and 33x12.50.17 setup will the 456s wake the truck up a lot or is it even worth it ?
How much did you have to change from the factory shims?
I want to do this to my 2007 Silverado. I’ve never rebuilt a rear differential before. Do you think a 12 ton HarborFreight h frame press will get the job done. I looks like that’s all I’ll need to buy besides parts obviously.
Fantastic video. Well done
Hey LT I have a question about backlash
Your a very informative guy good job
I appreciate that! thanks for watching
Will this throw off your speed on the cluster?
all you have to do to setup pinion depth thats way easier ..pinions are etched with numbers , so old gears ...take that number and add or subtract from the new gears etched numbers on pinion thgen add or subtract the difference and you are set to move on to next steps
Would you know why my 14 bolt SF keeps going bad? I get it fixed but then a few months later it starts to make a grinding sound only when I’m off the gas.
Hi LT Fast question. When you are measuring pinion bearing pre-load you said at 10:32 "Drag is measured with an empty housing. But to get pinion depth you need everything in place. I just want to be clear? When you are ready to put the pinion in for the last time you remove the carrier assembly and measure drag and continue to tighten the pinion/nut until you get into the proper range. Right? You did not show it but how did you hold that yoke in place while you accurately tighten the pinion nut? That pinion has to remain still or you will not get a good torque value. Thanks
I determine the correct pinion depth with the carrier in place, by reading the gear contact pattern, usually with several different attempts to get it right. During mock up to check said pattern, pinion bearing preload isn't important, just tighten the nut until there is no play and the pinion turns very slight effort. Then, on final assembly, you install the pinion, correct shim, final bearings, seal, yoke, crush collar and nut, and tighten the nut until the crush sleeve compresses and rotational drag is increased (with no carrier in place) until it reaches specification. You can use a yoke holding tool and a long breaker bar to manually tighten the nut, or the faster but riskier option is to use an impact gun. This can work, but its extremely easy to over tighten the pinion nut and get too much pinion drag, and if that happens, you need to disassemble and replace the crush sleeve. Once you have the pinion nut tight with drag set, you can then install the carrier for the final time, and verify backlash is correct.
@@LawrenceTolman Fantastic! Thank you for taking the time to answer my questions. I just purchased a Truetrac for my 1971 Camaro. I know you like them and you are hard on the equipment (for speed) and I have never heard you say you broke one! So I figured if 1,000+HP is OK 300-400HP is fine too. The rearend ratio is currently a 3.08 so changing the gear too. Hard to do a burnout with a 3.08 :)
I use your video's for inspiration. You are a excellent teacher! Keep it up!!
Awesome video. Thank you!
Great informational video ,,I was was wondering what brand pinion bearings you used ? I Was thinking going with national ,Is that a good bearing ?
to be honest, I am not sure what brand I used on this particular rear end, but yes, I have had good luck with National on many projects.
@@LawrenceTolman Thanks for getting back to me I was wondering by deducting 5 thousands on pinion dept ,How many thousands would it add or deduct on backlash ?
Do you have any carrier preload? It seams like it didn't take you any effort to slip it into the housing between the shims.
I put the same carrier in my truck and I like it.
Would a 8.5 master overhaul kit work on a 8.5/8.6 posi unit?
I’m looking into regearing my ‘18. With only 40k miles would I still need to get all new bearings and seals or can everything be reused if it’s not worn out? Ring a pinion sets are only a hair over $100 on rockauto right now but they don’t come with anything else
in theory, yes as long as you can remove the stock pinion bearings from the pinion without damaging them. I have done it before, but my preference is to just get new bearings. In your case if you are just re-gearing and not swapping the carrier, you could get away with just new pinion bearings, and re-use the carrier bearings.
Very informative
Whats the average cost to have a shop do this?
I would say 4 hours total of labor at a shop. In my area $140 an hour comes out to $560 only for labor.
Can i only replace the carrier bearings on my gm 3.23 of a 2017 escalade and leave the penion and its bearings preload alone?
Absolutely. Just measure backlash before and after to make sure it stays the same
great job explaining that.
Glad it was helpful!
Great info on changing gears. Big fan of the 4l80.I have never found out if the 4l80 is an overdrive 400. They used to sell reduced 1and 2 gearsets for those. Would it work in the 4l80??
And how about the 6 speed kit for the 4l80?? Love to see a grudge race with your duramax , turbo 5.3, coperhead, srt10, and this beast. Idk who would win.
Hi!
Please help me! Where can I get the tool at 13:11?
Thank you!
amzn.to/3IZvNuT
great vid!
High LT Another quick question. I pulled the OEM shim from underneath pinion and it's stamped .038 and verified. From your experience, how much deviation should I expect from .038 when installing a new Yukon ring and pinion set. For some reason I can't get a nice "centered" football pattern. The pattern just seems to stay at the toe no matter what shim I put in. After about 10 times I am doing something wrong. I'm worn out Buddy lifting and removing that center section :) I tripled checked to make certain that both pinion bearing races were fully seated. Naturally anytime I make a shim change to the pinion I go back and measure backlash and adjust back to .006"-009" as recommended by Yukon? Prior to removal of the original carrier the backlash measured was .007". Do you have any suggestions? Thanks Buddy and I hope all is well!!
if you have the original pinion bearing (big end) make sure the new bearing you have is the same thickness... I've had some new bearings come in a rebuild kit that are way thicker which makes it impossible to get the pattern right. but to answer your question, usually every rear I end up doing is within 10 to 20 thousandths of the OEM shim...
@@LawrenceTolman Well I got it done minus the axles. Will do that tomorrow. The rebuild kit came with Timken bearings. I did as you suggested and the National OEM bearing was within .002 of the Timken. So to make them exact I used a .040 shim with the new pinion. I did go over the pinion preload by just a tad. Upper end of spec says 19 in/lbs I hit 22in/lbs. It was at 12 in/lbs and that is too low for new bearings. So I grunted on it just a hair and went over. In the counter clockwise direction it's 15in/lbs. Go figure? Average - 18.5in/lbs. Backspacing is .007 and the pattern looks OK now. Not perfect but I think OK.
So you did not change the races in the Carrier Bearing.
I know this was made a while ago, so I’m not sure if you’ll see this, but I wanted to know - I’m installing 4.56 gears in my Silverado (same model and year) and I don’t have a dial indicator to check backlash. Is there any way at all I can go off of the gear pattern in order to check for backlash, or is the (expensive 👎🏼) indicator necessary?
You could in theory go off a pattern to set backlash, or even by feel if you’ve done a couple before, but of course the best way is to use a dial indicator
@@LawrenceTolman Thank you for the response!!! I’m currently 3 hours in to the job, lol, and didn’t manage to land an indicator. Hopefully I’ll be fine with the pattern, but if not I learned an expensive lesson. Thanks again :)
awesome stuff
thanks!
How much different would it be to set up gears on a 14 bolt full floater?
the only major difference wold be setting the pinion depth with shims on the pinion support instead of behind the pinion bearing. but the same principals apply...
@@LawrenceTolman thanx LT, when we gonna get to hear that turbo whistle?!?!
Great video
Thanks!
So if I swap every thing from one rear end to another I should be good. Every thing should be gaped right Going from 3.23 open to 3.73 g80.
Excellent video! How do you get the test bearing to fit so easily?
Sea Ox I grind the inside out with a round barrel sander attachment for a die grinder. Or you can buy em already like that, as a setup bearing
@@LawrenceTolman where do you buy the setup bearing?
Okay so the re-gear is good and I love how well it was explained my question is is that 8.1 going to Nuke that 4 L 60 or that 10 bolt first
The 8.6 with his setup should be fine, also, he has an 80e. Should be good to go.
Have a built 468 in a 83 blazer, original 10 bolt and 4l60 lasted about 2 months then both scattered at the same time. Looked like a bomb went off in the trans. Was driving 20 mph taking son to school when it went.
How do I know my setup bearing and the real bearing are going to give me the same pinion depth because different brands can be a little different. And can I use the setup bearings for the final bearings.
no, you don't want to use the setup bearings as the final bearing, it would spin on the pinion shaft and cause premature wear. If you buy two of the same bearing, it should be very close if not exactly the same. (or it has been in my experience)
Had a question Lawrence, after you made your 'set-up bearings' and you reinstalled them to get the gear pattern check, did you use the old crush ring or did you use a new crush ring? Or did you NOT use a crush ring at all to get the gear pattern? Thanks for the help bro!
You can just use the old crush ring, that doesn’t change the pinion depth
Anyone with experience tell me what would be the best gear set up for my 2015 5.3 Silverado . I have a 6 in suspension lift, I run 35/12.50/20s. I’m looking to get more power on the low end . Pretty sure I’m running 373 gears currently. Not bad but sluggish .
great video! But I find it very very hard to believe that you pressed the last outer pinion bearing on with a pipe and a hammer with nothing holding it in except your hand. How did you actually get it on? Impact?
I showed exactly how it went on, I always use a hammer and pipe to get the outer pinion bearing started onto the pinion gear. those outer bearings don't fit quite as tight as the inner ones do, and as long as you can get it slid on far enough to where you can get the yoke and pinion nut on, you're good to go.
I want to gear to 4.10 I was planning on running 315 tires what’s your option on that combo also could I regear to 4.10 and run stock size tire 255 . Note I have the 4l60e
4.10 is a great all around gear, especially if you plan on running a little taller tire. Most gas HD trucks had a 4.10 as well...
Can I do this on a 4th gen F body 10 bolt? I think it’s a 7.6” pinion.
the process will be more or less the same, just the parts are a little smaller
Hi I just bought 4.10s but it says 8.5 I'm curious if it would fit my 8.6 I been told its all the same
I believe the same gearset should fit both, I know the carriers interchange
@@LawrenceTolman are both 30 spline that's my main concern I know the ring will fit but the pinion is my concern
@@LawrenceTolman backwards compatible not forward
Hey buddy why is tha yellow paint ??
Do you have to set the backlash before pinion depth? Or does it have any affect on your pattern when your checking the pinion depth?
no, the first step is to set pinion depth, but each time you make an adjustment to pinion depth, you may need to re adjust backlash to get it within spec.