Hello, The capacitor value is 10 Uf rated at 100 volts. Not 100 Uf at 10 volts. There is a DC to DC converter that puts out 48 volts for the normal telephone ring etc. Do not use a 10 volt 100 Uf replacement cap! You need a 10 Uf rated at 100 volts, 50 volts will work since it only 48 volts but that close top the limit. No more noise!
Good catch... This electrolytic cap has been installed and in service for quite a while now... no bulging or leaking... usually they'll blow rather quickly when overvolted. If it fails, I'll change it out for a 10uf 100V part.
Ok with so little info out there about this issue, I'll add what worked for me. I have the newer model and I've had the static noise issue for over a year. Changed the phone and LAN cables, router but no luck. I was just going to get a new one when the time came to renew then I stumbled on this video. I wasn't going to change the capacitor (I'll just get a new unit), but I saw some comments about how changing the power supply solved the issue. I changed mine to a 2A power adapter but that didn't fix the issue. What solved it was removing the optional magicjack USB extension cable and plugging it directly into the power adapter. No more static noise. I tried the extension cable again as a test, and the noise came back. I tried directly with the 1A power adapter again and it worked. So MY issue was with the extension cable.
I have a video posted about the power supply causing issues with these. I tend to run mine directly off the power supply. There's a chance the extension cord could be cheaply made and causing a voltage drop to the magicJack when it needs additional power.
Googled problem, found this video and 15 minutes later, my magicjack has no more noise. Before, other companies couldn't hear my dtmf, but now it works. Thanks! I tried to desolder the smd capacitor, and one side worked but the other side melted the capacitor body itself and broke the cap like yours. but now that the top of it was off, I just desoldered it and left a nice pad for re-soldering. Much appreciated! Also my magicjack was a little different than yours, had 3 smd caps but the other two caps were smaller and this was the only 100uf.
super, thanks for the info. l started this friday night and looked for a cap in my bin not finding any close enough. went to a ham fest the next day and the first table i went to had 10uf at 100 vdc on the table 'new' in a bag. changed it out. had to scrap away some green from the board to get + copper but seems to be good. will know when it warms up again.
Thankyou brother for posting this Very helpful tip! I just got around to doing mine.. It had LOTS of background hiss and hum...new Power supplies helped but the main cause was that capacitor... as other commenter mentioned ,its 10uf/ 100volt... I tried higher capacity uf ratings, like 50uf and 100uf but the voice wont function with those values... its 10uf for a reason.....like you, my traces both broke off but I found alternate attachment points nearby and it worked fine... the only 100v /10uf I had was too thick to fit in the case so I attached a small guage twin wire to the positive and negative attach points on the motherboard, then ran the wire outside the case where I secured the larger capacitor... Some black electrical tape to secure the case halves together and the external Cap to the case..worked Great and zero hum afterwards.. I was just about to reorder a new MJ because my subscription was up.. this one works good enough Im not gonna bother for now..
That worked on my MagicJack Go. To open, i used a flat head screwdriver with a hammer on the edge (blue line) closer to the mac address label. Thank you so much. No more annoying static.
I just put it in a vise, turned the crank till it Just beagn to crack, then took it out and used a knife to full seperate it... dont crank the vise of it will shatter the case...you just want it to begin to crack at the seams, then manually seperate it.
I damaged the pads in removing the capacitor but found it connects to an adjacent resistor. Soldered new capacitor to this resistor and it works like a charm.
Was there a designator marked on the board for that resistor you soldered to? (Example: R1, R2, R3, etc) Might be helpful for someone else who ruins a pad and needs this backup location
same happend to me and I did the same thing... with the negative side of the capaciter noted, as it has the black mark strip, its the surface mount resistor thats right next to the negative side...Im assumung that its a resistor and not a tiny capacitor...its small and rectangular ,surface mounted.
Sounds good to me I can tell a big difference In the way it sounded. Keith Do you do solder for hire on a PCB ? If you do we can discuss it further. Thanks
curious, sense using it over time now did it really fix the problem. I ask because like you said in the video it would work fine when first plugged in but then get worse as it heated up.
Kind sir, this seems too involved for me -- but I do have a question -- if you had to have changed to the new Magic Jack, would you be able to keep your same phone number, or would you have to have changed it? Can you think about posting a video for keeping the same phone number with changing the Magic Jack unit? Thank you, kindly!
You can keep your number when changing to a new device, and if the new device comes bundled with service, whatever that amount of service should also get added to what existing service months/years you had with the existing device and phone number. If you're having issues, try a new power adapter if you haven't done so already.
@@CubeComputerChannel Exactly the info I found out myself as I had the same concerns... what u stated is what customer service stated to me...should be no charge to keep ur previous MJ number....its only when you are coming from a different type of phone and want to keep That number, then it costs
Thanks for this video as well, even though the power adaptor solved my issues, I use one for a fax line so if I start having problems again I’ll know this is why.
thyey are silent, dead quiet and clear as a bell.. they supposedly have more cpu power and memory for better audio... Ive direct compared a new type one with my older majicjack GO... when mine had the bad capacitor issue, the new MJ was nite and day better... when I replaced the capacitor, the older MJ was almost the same as the new one..hard to tell any difference.
White Noise .. hahaha .. I remember when I was in France and the Engineers around me were 'scared' of Noise - we designed high frequency generators and Spectrum analyzers. It took a minute of our boss (Dr Charbonnier - Professor at La Sorbone) to make us think. 'electromagnetic' waves surround us, and with the new and more Smart things around, more noise is picked up. The capacitor is a good point if degraded, filtering the noise coming from the power source. The extenssion cable is of course an 'antenna' capturing signals, and using ethernet (twisted 4 pairs) Cta 6 or 7 will certainly isolate it more. All of these are a combined solution. (avoid the cables near the Wireless Router will be smart)
Walmart had them on clearance. It was when magicJack changed from the magicJack Go to the magicJack Home which is pretty much the same device. Still have that magicJack Go sealed in the box.
I currently don't have a hot air station. Most of the soldering I do is through-hole. This magicJack device was a rare exception. I have repaired two this way... just have to be super careful with the pads on the board. I didn't nearly destroy the pad on the second one of these devices (which belongs to my parents).
Ok my friend do not listen what is writing: the problem for the noise is the power supply from the magic Jack take it out connected to the outlet have USB connection 👀👍👋👋👋👋💯%%🙌🏁🏁I fixed 123🇵🇷
The power supply can sometimes be the culprit, however, even with a new power supply, the phone will still have noise with a failed capacitor in the magicJack.
I was all set too by a collection of capacitors from TEMU. I swapped out the power supply with a 5v 2a charger (oem is 5v 1a) This fixed my noise problem.
@@CubeComputerChannel You are correct my friend... while the power supply Can affect the noise, the capacitor in the MJ was creating noise Irregardless of Most power supplies I tried...once replaced, it was dead silent as far as background noise..probably the ideal would be a new power supply as well as the Cap replacement but Im please with mine since the fix.
Hello, The capacitor value is 10 Uf rated at 100 volts. Not 100 Uf at 10 volts. There is a DC to DC converter that puts out 48 volts for the normal telephone ring etc. Do not use a 10 volt 100 Uf replacement cap! You need a 10 Uf rated at 100 volts, 50 volts will work since it only 48 volts but that close top the limit. No more noise!
Good catch... This electrolytic cap has been installed and in service for quite a while now... no bulging or leaking... usually they'll blow rather quickly when overvolted. If it fails, I'll change it out for a 10uf 100V part.
Ok with so little info out there about this issue, I'll add what worked for me. I have the newer model and I've had the static noise issue for over a year. Changed the phone and LAN cables, router but no luck. I was just going to get a new one when the time came to renew then I stumbled on this video. I wasn't going to change the capacitor (I'll just get a new unit), but I saw some comments about how changing the power supply solved the issue. I changed mine to a 2A power adapter but that didn't fix the issue. What solved it was removing the optional magicjack USB extension cable and plugging it directly into the power adapter. No more static noise. I tried the extension cable again as a test, and the noise came back. I tried directly with the 1A power adapter again and it worked. So MY issue was with the extension cable.
I have a video posted about the power supply causing issues with these. I tend to run mine directly off the power supply. There's a chance the extension cord could be cheaply made and causing a voltage drop to the magicJack when it needs additional power.
The same for me! Thank you for this easy fix!
Thank you! Removing the optional USB cable worked for me, too.
This worked for me too! So annoying
Googled problem, found this video and 15 minutes later, my magicjack has no more noise. Before, other companies couldn't hear my dtmf, but now it works. Thanks! I tried to desolder the smd capacitor, and one side worked but the other side melted the capacitor body itself and broke the cap like yours. but now that the top of it was off, I just desoldered it and left a nice pad for re-soldering. Much appreciated! Also my magicjack was a little different than yours, had 3 smd caps but the other two caps were smaller and this was the only 100uf.
super, thanks for the info. l started this friday night and looked for a cap in my bin not finding any close enough. went to a ham fest the next day and the first table i went to had 10uf at 100 vdc on the table 'new' in a bag. changed it out. had to scrap away some green from the board to get + copper but seems to be good. will know when it warms up again.
Thankyou brother for posting this Very helpful tip! I just got around to doing mine.. It had LOTS of background hiss and hum...new Power supplies helped but the main cause was that capacitor... as other commenter mentioned ,its 10uf/ 100volt... I tried higher capacity uf ratings, like 50uf and 100uf but the voice wont function with those values... its 10uf for a reason.....like you, my traces both broke off but I found alternate attachment points nearby and it worked fine... the only 100v /10uf I had was too thick to fit in the case so I attached a small guage twin wire to the positive and negative attach points on the motherboard, then ran the wire outside the case where I secured the larger capacitor... Some black electrical tape to secure the case halves together and the external Cap to the case..worked Great and zero hum afterwards.. I was just about to reorder a new MJ because my subscription was up.. this one works good enough Im not gonna bother for now..
That worked on my MagicJack Go. To open, i used a flat head screwdriver with a hammer on the edge (blue line) closer to the mac address label. Thank you so much. No more annoying static.
I just put it in a vise, turned the crank till it Just beagn to crack, then took it out and used a knife to full seperate it... dont crank the vise of it will shatter the case...you just want it to begin to crack at the seams, then manually seperate it.
I damaged the pads in removing the capacitor but found it connects to an adjacent resistor. Soldered new capacitor to this resistor and it works like a charm.
Was there a designator marked on the board for that resistor you soldered to? (Example: R1, R2, R3, etc) Might be helpful for someone else who ruins a pad and needs this backup location
same happend to me and I did the same thing... with the negative side of the capaciter noted, as it has the black mark strip, its the surface mount resistor thats right next to the negative side...Im assumung that its a resistor and not a tiny capacitor...its small and rectangular ,surface mounted.
You're cool but I'm not skilled in electronics n capacitors aren't laying around the house. Great solution oriented video, I gratefully appreciate it!
You are a legit tech, happy new year!
Thanks! Happy new year!
Sounds good to me I can tell a big difference
In the way it sounded.
Keith
Do you do solder for hire on a PCB ?
If you do we can discuss it further.
Thanks
curious, sense using it over time now did it really fix the problem. I ask because like you said in the video it would work fine when first plugged in but then get worse as it heated up.
It's been working fine ever since!
Kind sir, this seems too involved for me -- but I do have a question -- if you had to have changed to the new Magic Jack, would you be able to keep your same phone number, or would you have to have changed it? Can you think about posting a video for keeping the same phone number with changing the Magic Jack unit? Thank you, kindly!
You can keep your number when changing to a new device, and if the new device comes bundled with service, whatever that amount of service should also get added to what existing service months/years you had with the existing device and phone number. If you're having issues, try a new power adapter if you haven't done so already.
@@CubeComputerChannel Exactly the info I found out myself as I had the same concerns... what u stated is what customer service stated to me...should be no charge to keep ur previous MJ number....its only when you are coming from a different type of phone and want to keep That number, then it costs
Thanks for this video as well, even though the power adaptor solved my issues, I use one for a fax line so if I start having problems again I’ll know this is why.
I had low volume issues then changed the low adapter to a more powerful one and it fixed it but still get lots of loud static.
Mine is one of the first ones and static and crackling is bad. If I just bought a new one are they noisy also or did they fix noise issues.?
thyey are silent, dead quiet and clear as a bell.. they supposedly have more cpu power and memory for better audio... Ive direct compared a new type one with my older majicjack GO... when mine had the bad capacitor issue, the new MJ was nite and day better... when I replaced the capacitor, the older MJ was almost the same as the new one..hard to tell any difference.
Thank you so much. I'm subscribing and I liked it. Don't forget to clean your fingernails.
White Noise .. hahaha .. I remember when I was in France and the Engineers around me were 'scared' of Noise - we designed high frequency generators and Spectrum analyzers. It took a minute of our boss (Dr Charbonnier - Professor at La Sorbone) to make us think. 'electromagnetic' waves surround us, and with the new and more Smart things around, more noise is picked up. The capacitor is a good point if degraded, filtering the noise coming from the power source. The extenssion cable is of course an 'antenna' capturing signals, and using ethernet (twisted 4 pairs) Cta 6 or 7 will certainly isolate it more. All of these are a combined solution. (avoid the cables near the Wireless Router will be smart)
The real question is how did your mother able to get that brand new MagicJack Go for just $9??????
Walmart had them on clearance. It was when magicJack changed from the magicJack Go to the magicJack Home which is pretty much the same device. Still have that magicJack Go sealed in the box.
Hello bro you don't have a hot air station to remove chips or surface mount capacitors?
I currently don't have a hot air station. Most of the soldering I do is through-hole. This magicJack device was a rare exception. I have repaired two this way... just have to be super careful with the pads on the board. I didn't nearly destroy the pad on the second one of these devices (which belongs to my parents).
@@CubeComputerChannel
Ah cool , if you did more surface mount soldering, you would have had a air station.
Otherwise happy new year bro!
Use flux!!!!!!!!!!!!!! and beep out a ground and put the leg onto that.
I used to the heat sink both sides the magic Jack for overhead still have the noise this is💩
Ok my friend do not listen what is writing: the problem for the noise is the power supply from the magic Jack take it out connected to the outlet have USB connection 👀👍👋👋👋👋💯%%🙌🏁🏁I fixed 123🇵🇷
The power supply can sometimes be the culprit, however, even with a new power supply, the phone will still have noise with a failed capacitor in the magicJack.
I was all set too by a collection of capacitors from TEMU. I swapped out the power supply with a 5v 2a charger (oem is 5v 1a) This fixed my noise problem.
@@CubeComputerChannel You are correct my friend... while the power supply Can affect the noise, the capacitor in the MJ was creating noise Irregardless of Most power supplies I tried...once replaced, it was dead silent as far as background noise..probably the ideal would be a new power supply as well as the Cap replacement but Im please with mine since the fix.