Jason, thanks for a new video! You are doing a cool thing sharing this with us and I always look forward to your new videos! Keep up the good work! Carl
so i am at 2:40 into the video, and just a quick tutorial. The mixer port, with the large flat area, is what you use the push the plunger side, to expel the B2 out through the nozzle. you dont need an additional caulk gun, its all included.. Anxious to see if Jason figured that out.... pushing play again!
Hi Simon, I am aware that you can do it that way but the caulk gun is way way way easier =) (And in this case wasn't an option at all due to where I was using this thing..)
Hey Jason, I sanded the powder coat down just slightly, especially where it edges out. Definitely try not to remove much of it but just get it smooth. I then used lubricant to push it through. Same issue with the flap torque tubes. Once they goes in and settles it will rotate freely cause the bushings will not be over powdercoat. P.S. Engine prices are going up March 15. I would get your deposit in if you are already settled on an engine.
In my RV-4, the original builder split the nylon bearing blocks for the flap torque tube (or they came split in the kit). The torque tube is dropped into place in the fuselage on top of the bottom halves and then the top side of the blocks clamped down with bolts thru the floor once everything is in place. The bolts holding the split blocks can be tightened or loosened to increase or decrease the tension on the torque tube. Even with very little friction being generated against the tube rotating, it stays securely in place with no play.
Ordered my RV-14 empennage kit last May. Was told back then that delivery would be November. Three weeks ago, I was told that a delivery dates would be announced in two weeks. No news as of yet. This being the case, I ordered the wing kit. 12-months backlog.
I'd probably play with thermal expansion/contraction... i.e. freeze the torque tube and heat the bushing. Probably keep the bushing under 180 degrees, and maybe figure out a means to heat while on the tube with a mild dose of heat gun, or with a thermal blanket.
Test with air. The specific gravity of water and fuel differ so you may not have a leak with water but you can have a leak with fuel. You know your tanks are leak proof when the balloon inflates and deflates due to barometric pressure.
Very true. I had a small leak, pulled the tank, filled it with water and couldn’t find a leak. I left it over night and still bone dry. I filled it with avgas and found the wet spot right away. (Fiberglass tank)
Never built an RV so this may not work, but try freezing the bar before you install it. The cold may shrink it just enough to let the teflon/plastic piece slide easier.
Shrink fitting was my thought, too. Like you, I’ve got no experience in building an RV, but it’s a great solution in other industries, so I’m curious if anyone with experience has an objection.
Thinking of the restrictions of working away from home and potentially not having access to a freezer, in the UK we have pipe freezing kits for emergency plumbing, that may be a better option for the same result, and it'll get much colder than a home freezer
Jason, I would suggest using dry slide or some lubricant instead of modifying the UHMW part. Typically UHMW is used as a bushing and should not have a sloppy fit.
Hey Jason, I sanded inside the block JUST enough to get it on. It sucked. But like you I wanted to leave the powder coat and I didnt want to introduce too much slop. But mine is still super tight after sanding but it was loose enough to move by hand in order to get the brackets in place. I imagine over time it will naturally loosen up a bit.
Also, highly recommend the cee bailey tinted windows. nice looking windows. Quality shipping. We havent installed them yet but maybe in the next month or so.
B2 … I thought the B is the thickness of the goop.. A is more liquid, B is more peanut butter.. and the 2 is the time.. 1/2 or 1/6 is real quick to kick off, and 2 is longer.. maybe 2 hours? I think it starts kicking off faster depending on temperature.
Hey, I was thinking you could try heating the black plastic block and cooling the torque tube. Obviously you'd need to be careful how you apply the heat. Hot water or a toaster over set really low (that last one scares me though). I'd say stick the tube in a freezer, but I doubt you have a freezer out at the airport. Maybe an excuse to buy one ;-). Maybe if we have a cold snap any time soon, you could leave it outside overnight? No matter what, if you go with temperature, you'll have to work fast, too. Good luck!
Can you not put the tube in without the block on it, then slide it outboard far enough (to the left in the video) so that the inboard end (on the right) is clear of the hole? It would allow you to put the block on the tube and move it back into place again without ever having to move the block over the power coating.
No because there are two of them. What you suggest would work if there was only one but since there are two no matter how you swing it, you have to jam on on pretty far.
Freeze the tube (srinks), warm the plastic to 200 F (expands) should give you enough tolerance to assemble it, if you are fast. Just look up the temp for the plastic that you can heat it to without changing the properties.
On this difficult to reach spot I did not use a glove. With my bare finger I was able to feel how the proseal is getting in the corners and how much material was needed to really get in the corners to make sure it will be 120% seal. Like playing the guitar it is important not to have too long nails 😁
I have not built an RV so this isn’t based on actual experience with this part, but on general experience on other things. I would try heating the plastic part in an oven up to maybe 140 or so and see if that makes it slip easier. If a little heat helps, I would try that and use a heat gun to keep it warm during assembly. Often a little heat will let parts like that expand a little and still recover their original size once cooled. I would also apply some silicone lube to the shaft and plastic bore as that will help move things more easily.
this old video just popped up in the recommendations. Miss your videos, they were great!
Jason, thanks for a new video! You are doing a cool thing sharing this with us and I always look forward to your new videos! Keep up the good work! Carl
Well said.
Thanks for your inspiration…my RV-10 empennage order is placed and now the wait begins.
Jason, you're doing an amazing job!! Keep up the good work. I'm just starting the process with my RV-10 and I absolutely love your videos.
so i am at 2:40 into the video, and just a quick tutorial. The mixer port, with the large flat area, is what you use the push the plunger side, to expel the B2 out through the nozzle. you dont need an additional caulk gun, its all included.. Anxious to see if Jason figured that out....
pushing play again!
Hi Simon, I am aware that you can do it that way but the caulk gun is way way way easier =) (And in this case wasn't an option at all due to where I was using this thing..)
Hey Jason, I sanded the powder coat down just slightly, especially where it edges out. Definitely try not to remove much of it but just get it smooth. I then used lubricant to push it through. Same issue with the flap torque tubes. Once they goes in and settles it will rotate freely cause the bushings will not be over powdercoat. P.S. Engine prices are going up March 15. I would get your deposit in if you are already settled on an engine.
Dude! You are okay! Great news. Thanks for the video update on your kit.
Your Georgia is showing again😄
13 months will fly by, you’ve got a lot to do mate!
Looking good Jason! Your tip jar link in the comments doesn't seem to be working.
Cant wait to see you do the finishing kit.
Thank you for sharing Jason!
In my RV-4, the original builder split the nylon bearing blocks for the flap torque tube (or they came split in the kit). The torque tube is dropped into place in the fuselage on top of the bottom halves and then the top side of the blocks clamped down with bolts thru the floor once everything is in place. The bolts holding the split blocks can be tightened or loosened to increase or decrease the tension on the torque tube. Even with very little friction being generated against the tube rotating, it stays securely in place with no play.
Another video! Yaaaaaay!!!!!
Ordered my RV-14 empennage kit last May. Was told back then that delivery would be November. Three weeks ago, I was told that a delivery dates would be announced in two weeks. No news as of yet. This being the case, I ordered the wing kit. 12-months backlog.
I'd probably play with thermal expansion/contraction... i.e. freeze the torque tube and heat the bushing. Probably keep the bushing under 180 degrees, and maybe figure out a means to heat while on the tube with a mild dose of heat gun, or with a thermal blanket.
Test with air. The specific gravity of water and fuel differ so you may not have a leak with water but you can have a leak with fuel. You know your tanks are leak proof when the balloon inflates and deflates due to barometric pressure.
Very true. I had a small leak, pulled the tank, filled it with water and couldn’t find a leak. I left it over night and still bone dry. I filled it with avgas and found the wet spot right away.
(Fiberglass tank)
Never built an RV so this may not work, but try freezing the bar before you install it. The cold may shrink it just enough to let the teflon/plastic piece slide easier.
Polish the inside of the nylon with some fine sandpaper.. you want it to move.. an ideal thing would be to hone it, maybe try a brake hone?
Shrink fitting was my thought, too. Like you, I’ve got no experience in building an RV, but it’s a great solution in other industries, so I’m curious if anyone with experience has an objection.
Thinking of the restrictions of working away from home and potentially not having access to a freezer, in the UK we have pipe freezing kits for emergency plumbing, that may be a better option for the same result, and it'll get much colder than a home freezer
Jason, I would suggest using dry slide or some lubricant instead of modifying the UHMW part. Typically UHMW is used as a bushing and should not have a sloppy fit.
Hey Jason, I sanded inside the block JUST enough to get it on. It sucked. But like you I wanted to leave the powder coat and I didnt want to introduce too much slop. But mine is still super tight after sanding but it was loose enough to move by hand in order to get the brackets in place. I imagine over time it will naturally loosen up a bit.
Also, highly recommend the cee bailey tinted windows. nice looking windows. Quality shipping. We havent installed them yet but maybe in the next month or so.
B2 … I thought the B is the thickness of the goop.. A is more liquid, B is more peanut butter.. and the 2 is the time.. 1/2 or 1/6 is real quick to kick off, and 2 is longer.. maybe 2 hours? I think it starts kicking off faster depending on temperature.
Hey, I was thinking you could try heating the black plastic block and cooling the torque tube. Obviously you'd need to be careful how you apply the heat. Hot water or a toaster over set really low (that last one scares me though). I'd say stick the tube in a freezer, but I doubt you have a freezer out at the airport. Maybe an excuse to buy one ;-). Maybe if we have a cold snap any time soon, you could leave it outside overnight? No matter what, if you go with temperature, you'll have to work fast, too. Good luck!
Chill the tube, try heating the block in hot water. Use something like petroleum jelly to lubricate both bush and tube. Worth a try.
Can you not put the tube in without the block on it, then slide it outboard far enough (to the left in the video) so that the inboard end (on the right) is clear of the hole? It would allow you to put the block on the tube and move it back into place again without ever having to move the block over the power coating.
No because there are two of them. What you suggest would work if there was only one but since there are two no matter how you swing it, you have to jam on on pretty far.
Have you tried feathering the powder coating?
craft sticks, tongue depressors, plastic knives all make great tools for prosealing.
Popsicle sticks too.
I’ve seen those little syringes for sale at hobby shops.
Freeze the tube (srinks), warm the plastic to 200 F (expands) should give you enough tolerance to assemble it, if you are fast. Just look up the temp for the plastic that you can heat it to without changing the properties.
13 MONTHS!!!! Is this the Lead Time for ALL Finishing Kits, or just for the -10? GREAT job with sealing the tank! THANK YOU for the video!!! =)
Lead times right now are very long. I'm willing to bet that this is for all of the kids (except the -3 and -4 which is double that..)
Jason, what's the lead time for an engine these days?
Can you heat the plastic parts to make them moved on the flap rod?
Throwing it in some boiling water could be a safe way to heat it up.
yeah, B-2 means 2 hour working time
On this difficult to reach spot I did not use a glove. With my bare finger I was able to feel how the proseal is getting in the corners and how much material was needed to really get in the corners to make sure it will be 120% seal. Like playing the guitar it is important not to have too long nails 😁
engines have gone way up in price too! don't ask how I know! :(
I have not built an RV so this isn’t based on actual experience with this part, but on general experience on other things. I would try heating the plastic part in an oven up to maybe 140 or so and see if that makes it slip easier. If a little heat helps, I would try that and use a heat gun to keep it warm during assembly. Often a little heat will let parts like that expand a little and still recover their original size once cooled. I would also apply some silicone lube to the shaft and plastic bore as that will help move things more easily.
Wet sand the tube with 320 or 400 sand paper……Hal
If tank sealant isn’t fixing the leak, then you’re not using enough sealant.
I giggled like a schoolgirl when you said "caulk gun". I'm so immature.
My people!
Have you tried feathering the powder coating?