Check out the link below and use my code 24EFXMASAL to get an extra 5% off all deals (Except flash sale products and recommended accessories). Valid until Dec 27th. bit.ly/3DhsL7y
Ultrasonic cleaners are a great tool to have around. As a former engineer for a major ultrasonics company there are a few tips that will help your cleaning adventures. Ultrasonics will accelerate the effect that the cleaning solution would normally have over time. The cavitation waves of ultrasonics can dislodge dirt but choosing the solution that best dissolves whatever is binding the dirt to the part is key. Don't put parts on the bottom of the tank because it will dampen and reduce the effect of the transducers bonded to the bottom, think of it as a speaker cone. Even warm water with a few drops of detergent (to break the surface tension of the water) will do a good job on common dirt. Ultrasonics is a line-of-sight process so orient your part so cavities face the transducers. You can place parts in small containers (thin wall plastic works best) of solvents and suspend them in the solution so you don't have to fill the entire tank of expensive solvents; even plastic bags will work.
I agree. Been using ultra sonic's for jewelry cleaning 50 years now. The solution type is key to good cleaning. Definitely suspending the parts helps a great deal. A full tank decreases ultrasonic wave action and cleaning. Great work Mads... best of luck!
I'm a mechanic. Weld nuts to the broken bolt. Let cool, unthred. The heat when welding burns the corrosion. And the steel welding rod will not weld to the aluminum housing
More often than not the fastener will just unscrew itself before you are done drilling if you use a left-handed bit. Harbor Freight sells a cheap multi-bit kit in a blue plastic box for around $10-15. It was on sale on the end-cap display the last time I was at one of their stores.
Of note you want to hit on the inside race not the outside race when installing on shaft ...you just brinelled the bearings looking at reduced life. Use the vise jaws as a press instead of beating on the bearings
I was just about to type the same.. Always hit a bearing on the side that is being moved against another surface. For a shaft, hit on the inner bearing race, for a housing install, hit on the outer bearing race.
came here to say the same. you can get away with a hammer but as you said you cannot have the impacts land on the rolling elements. so socket on whichever race is being pushed on/in
Mads - there are now inductive fastener heaters. They allow more precision in applying heat to seized bolts. I have had good luck with using both electronics air duster (the kind that uses freon propellant). Turn the can upside-down and it will drip propellant onto the bolt, and freeze it. Then you can use the inductive tool to heat - thermal shock to help pb blaster to penetrate. Be careful not to overheat and melt threads of softer material, and try to avoid extraction while hot in aluminum (aluminum threads will be soft). Also, for ultrasonic cleaning, add plenty of surfactant to increase cavitation. I've used isopropyl alcohol (outdoors) which is not technically a surfactant (its a wetting agent), but it has a similar effect and is really cheap.
Come on Mads. You are a sailor. Colorful language is necessary, and required. You don't curse like a sailor, you ARE a sailor. So others merely act like you. Ergo, You are a role model.
Others may have offered the same broken bolt removal technique. Lay a nut over the broken part of the bolt ...weld thru the nut center to secure nut to broken bolt...use lots of heat. Let cool off. Or you can shock with rapid cooling. Now try to remove bolt by twisting nut. Nut may snap off...no worries reweld. Try again. Generally the heat cycles help to break the rust and corrosion loose and the weld usually does not bond to the cadt material.
THE BEST penetrating juice I've ever found after years of unsticking hardware on vintage tractors.... is a DIY mix of Automatic Transmission Fluid and Acetone (50/50 mix.) Just be careful around plastics.
It's only a few blocks from the yard too. I'm so jealous. I think I know where every Harbor Freight is near to the Atlantic ICW on the East Coast. The one in Vero Beach is right off of the Free Bus route and is only one transfer from the marina.
Hi, always enjoy your videos. Unless I’m mistaken it looked like you were hammering/pressing the bearing onto the shaft using a socket on the outer race. Just a tip, if that was the case, always press/hammer the race that is in contact with the surface it is going onto or into..In this case the inner race was pressing onto the shaft. By using the outer race you are transferring all the force through the ball bearings. Depending on how much force you use you may have damaged the races or the balls….hope this helps Cheers and I’m looking forward to all your future videos on this cat!
Doesn't take much to brindle the bearings and ruin their lifespan. Then again on our pump the bearings ride in engine oil and there is almost no real load on them compared to their huge size due to how large the shaft is they need to be large. Shaft size is a function of the spine drive of the impeller not the load it carries. They'd probably last longer than the pump itself even if damaged by brindling.
@@svbarryduckworth628 Good tip, I was pointing out a general rule of thumb, I'm a bit overcautious after twisting wrenches on helicopters for just over 4 decades, I know this because my wife tells me so........:)
@@mikev4820 I agree. Our pump is nearly Identical to Mads. A Johnson Pump with the K-series impeller if I remember correctly. . It's going to need to have the water seal replaced again every couple hundred hours by our experience so if I were Mads I would probably let these bearings go for now and assess them again when the water seal fails. Or if he wants to be extra cautious as you wisely advise just buy new bearings from an auto shop since they are only about $5-7 each or maybe get them off of Amazon. Install them correctly this time using a proper bearing installation pusher from Harbor Freight or at least pressing on the correct side of the race with the corresponding size socket keeping the loading on the race that is being pressed on as you stated. A boat isn't a helicopter but there are some times where having the engine overheating could wreck your boat such as coming in a tricky inlet or traversing the "rock pile" on the ICW.
You are the man… I commend you for being able to make a video solo while actually making progress on your project. I’ve tried to make a how to video and found myself getting extremely frustrated by the additional time it was taking trying to get good footage while still trying to get the job done.
Merry Christmas to you as well! If you haven’t removed the broken bolts out of the heat exchanger. There is a process known as EDM or electronic disintegration machining look for a company that offers that there’s several of them around. It literally burns the bolts out without hurting the threads of the main part you wanna save. It’s is less invasive and costs less than traditional machining! Cheers🎉
The most effective method to get rid of broken/seized bolts - particularly in blind holes - is to use a device called a spark eroder. Think of it like a welding arc but in reverse. Instead of putting molten metal into a job this thing vaporises it. The nice thing is that it leaves the hole intact. Available at all good engineering shops.
When you drive bearings on a shaft, you want to press on the inner race. This may not be possible using sockets. Conduit works well. It can be slit is the size is a mismatch to the bearing inner race. You ought to get a sponsorship from Harbor Freight.
Nice to see you bought yourself a ultrasonic cleaner I was just thinking that when I was watching the video you can get lots of different special cleaners to use in there something which is very low budget and works very well in an ultrasonic cleaner is dish soap just a small amount you will be surprised what it can do love the videos
PYI sells a grease gun that threads the squeeze tubes directly onto it. Its compact and affordable. After 12 years of MaxProp ownership, I switched to a different grease, something synthetic but still calcium sulphonate based. It’s also NLG-1 viscosity, same as Lubriplate AA. The grease I now uss Chevron Black Pearl. It is a little difficult to buy retail in single cartridges, but its worth hunting down. It has the highest resistance to water washout of any grease type, and is fully compatible with a Maxprop.
The palm grease gun is an amazing DIY tool. I have two, one with a grease zerk tip and one with a needle tip for fine work. The harbor freight version is OK but tends to leak grease back around the shaft of the mushroom button. HF copied the design from a name brand manufacturer and their version is a bit more expensive but doesn't get grease all over your hand as you use it. I have one of each. I only took the one with the needle tip on my sailboat because it will still work with a zerk fitting by putting the needle right into the center of the fitting and carefully squirting it in. There are only a few zerk fittings on our sailboat and the only one I use regularly is the one on the outboard which greases the pivot of the steering to keep the outboard steering smoothly. It only takes a few pumps to fill.
It's an old saying but it would still look good on a Sail Life T-shirt. My wife has been saying this since before I met her decades ago. She picked it up with her engineering degrees.
Happy you could save some money on the rebuild. I always found when doing stuff like this is that the information and knowledge you gain doing it that way is even more valuable for the next time you need to fix something on it. Knowing how something like that works and is put together is almost priceless. BTW just throw the copper wire in a burn barrel. That will burn off all the insulation and tin.
You really should heat the body of the heat exchanger instead of the bolt itself. The aluminium expands and gives space for the bolt to move. Reinstall bolts with ceramic anti seize (steel and aluminium dont work together well as you know)
That’s actually kind of a myth. When you heat metal each atom tries to get further away from the other metal atoms so it depends on the shape of the metal. If you have something in the shape of a ring, like a bearing, the atoms spreading out around the circumferential direction overcome the amount they spread inward and outward in radial direction. When the hole is in a housing they will try to spread out but have no where to go so they actually make the hole smaller. Heating the housing helps in the temperature difference and thermal expansion/contraction helps break any rust or corrosion and the threads are more malleable. It does risk damage on smaller components like this. Better off heating the bolt although making the bolt more malleable could cause easier breakage.
@ryanp0342 okay, so it depends on the shape of the metal, but the housing is not restricted in expanding, so it can freely expand, opening up the hole of the bolt? Aluminium is a great conductor of heat, so the whole housing will become hot, expanding in its totality.
@ I think heating up more of the housing just means that more metal will be trying to push inward. Could be wrong about this but I think it is mainly dependent on the inner and outer diameter’s for a simplified 2d model. For a ring or bearing the outer diameter is not much bigger than the inner so you get a ratio of 1.1:1 to maybe 2.0:1. For a housing the outside of the housing is your outer diameter so you could have ratios 2:1 up to practically infinite:1. If it isn’t a function of diameter then if would probably be a function of the area which just means it is even worse going from linear to quadratic. There are some videos where people measure the diameter of a bolt hole and then heat it up and measure again. Really interesting problem and I thought the same as you a few months ago.
@ryanp0342 okay, but if i scale an object by heating by 5%, hole dimensions also grow by 5%. Everything expands linearly. I got professional experience pressing couplings onto shafts. The coupling is specified to be heated so it expands (and the inner bore of the coupling also increases in size) after which it is fitted on the shadt. When the coupling cools down, it becomes an interference fit with the shaft.
@ Yes, I’ve heated bearings up in the oven and cooled shafts in the freezer before to create an interference fit. I’m not saying it doesn’t work but that it is dependent on ratio of the diameters. An engine block with a small hole isn’t getting the benefit of the inner diameter increasing, it will decrease. Maybe heating the entire part helps some or completely but you are not going to be able to do that a lot of the time especially with blowtorch. What is the ratio(outer diameter/inner diameter) of the coupling? Im guessing it is less than 2-3.
Happy holidays, bro. You made me laugh a lot today. You were so funny and felt natural effort. Thank you so much. And I truly enjoyed seeing you do the prop and water pump. Great job.
Mads, when you install the Max props, ensure you test the thrust direction on the props. Simply hold a blade and turn the shaft in the correct rotation to match the engine rotation. The feathering props will then rotate and lock in the forward thrust position. Check this is the correct orientation, i.e. pushing water astern. This is a simple test, you don't want to splash and find you go astern when you engage forward. cheers
Please, when installing a bearing make sure you are not putting force on the ball bearings. If the inner ring is the one with interference fit, hit on the inner one. If you in that case hit on the outer one the force is transmitted to the inner ring via the balls and that is no bueno! The result of that is small dents in the bearing surface and will make the bearing fail.
Free All is the best for getting stuck bolts out. Give it a try. Im restoring a 1953 Dodge truck and its the only thing that has welped with those sticky bolts. Its the magic sauce!
just had the greatest idea ever - turn the port hull into a full time workshop , as its only you and the wife you could live in the deck cabin and the starboard hull . also happy xmas to you and ava
Hey Mads! Loving the new project boat/cat and the good'ol fun you add to it❤ Please tell me you're converting one of the rooms into a workshop with a bench like in the trailer. That was my dream and I'm positive you would love that. Cheers.
Instead of using a screw driver as a punch get yourself a pin punch set and a couple of brass drifts, for larger jobs I have some scrap pieces of cold roll shaft to use as a punch. Cheers and good luck.
Saving some $$$$$$$$. Every little bit helps. Now you can keep cold beverages and some ice cream. Great job cleaning up the exchanger and feathering props.
Hi Mads, when cleaning engine parts it might be beneficial for you to look into getting an ultrasonic cleaner. They cost less than 200 usd and can clean the inside of engine parts to a degree that is impossible to do manually. As always thanks for a great show. Edit: …and 10 minutes after in the video, that is what you did. Brilliant minds think alike. 😂
More from Harbor freight, try the magnetic bowls or plates, the magnets may hold the stuff in the bowl and if you build into your table some metal strips or some magnets the plates and parts will stay put in a breeze. Happy holidays! Those props would make a nice star on the top of a reinforced tree!
When you drill out the bolts to make a hole for the extractor it relieves pressure between the bolt and housing. Allows the thin ring of bolt that’s left to contract.
Hi Mads Thank you for a fastastick show. DIT penetrading flued: 1 part hydroclic oil 1 part acetone this can losen a rusted bicycel chain. Merry Christmas from Herning DK
Mads, last time I had broken and corroded stainless steel bolts on my sailboat, someone turned me on to left hand threaded drill bits. I was super skeptical but also desperate as those extractors didn't grip at all. However, These worked great. The idea is you drill a slightly smaller hole and at some point, the bit will catch on the metal if used at low speed. The worst case is that it still doesn't budge and you can a.) add heat to the middle of the bolt and give it room to expand, b.) try to use the extractor on the hole or c.) have most of the bolt drilled out for drilling and retapping.
Years ago we were renovating our building and I would haul in truckloads of copper. Didn’t ever strip it, but would make like $400 per trip. It paid for the new wire, it the electrician, but it was something.
A little Dawn dish soap in the ultrasonic cleaner will make it more effective. Degreaser can also help even more but you do need to think about chemical reactions that may be accelerated by the heat.
With regards to removing the stuck studs if they were wiggling when they broke off you can probably get away with just drilling them with a left-handed drill bit and they might just self-extraxt before you get them fully drilled to accept the EZ-out extractors. If you use a punch to get the drill bit centered and perhaps use a tiny drill to start the hole so it doesn't walk out of center the drilling goes pretty well and more often than not they will come right out while still drilling with a left-handed drill. Harbor Fright sells the left-handed or reverse direction bits fairly cheaply in a set. These are must-have boat tools along with a hammer-operated hand-impact driver set which I have found helps get stuck bolts out without breaking them most of the time. They work even better than a powered impact driver for this. The impact of the hammer helps and the process goes slower which helps the bolt not to break. We have almost that identical raw water pump but with a slightly different connection to our Volvo-Penta 2003T diesel. It is a good design because there is an air gap between the impeller water pump side and the bearings on the driver side. This is good because the first thing to fail on these (besides the impeller) is the seal on the water side. The water falls harmlessly out rather than into the bearings or the engine oil if direct-drive. Ours goes out about every 200-250 hours and begins to leak a tiny bit. You can push it another 20-30 hours but eventually it will begin to leak more and more. (This is about two impellers worth of engine running time) Our pump is driven directly off of the engine via a large plastic gear wheel and the bearings are bathed in engine crankcase oil. They will probably last forever and I no longer bother changing them. The only parts really ever needed is the little seal on the water side of the pump and impellers. The seal is actually a quick job -faster than removing and reinstalling the pump by far. The oil seal on the bearing side lasts forever too. It's the water seal that is the weak spot on this pump after the impellers themselves. Both are consumables IMHO. Eventually after a couple thousand hours (depending on how silty the seawater is) the cam shoe will wear out inside of the pump and you will know it when the bolt that holds it from the outside is leaking water. That's because the threads are so short at that point that they can no longer remain water tight. New ones are not that expensive but be sure to get a new bolt too since it wears away with the cam. At about this same time the cover plate is getting worn too and depending where your raw water intake is may cause a difficulty in self-priming. The covers are cheap at Parts 4 Engines but they do not carry just the seals the last time I checked. They only come with the rebuild kit. You won't have noticed how the pump was not pumping as much because it happens slowly but with a new cam it will pump a LOT more water but impeller life will go down a lot too since it is deforming more as it spins. Don't let this bite you like it did me! Back-flushing for impeller parts sucks. I would suggest that you buy a spare pump anyhow and keep it in a ready to go condition so when one of your pumps starts to leak you can quickly swap it out and then rebuild it later at your own convenience. Buy a half dozen of the seals because they are sort of hard to find at a decent price. The lifespan of the seals can be extended a little bit if you drain and/or flush the pumps with fresh water before you let them sit for more than a couple of weeks without running the engine.
Noted the bearing being fitted to the water pump shaft was being driven down on the outer race and not the inner race. I would recommend to change the bearing if this was indeed the case.
You made it prior to Christmas so Merry Christmas and Happy New Year from a windy cold icy day next to Lake Michigan. Escanaba Mi. Gallivant a Catalina 36. 5 months to splash down.
Goodness, what a primitive system for metal recycling. There's absolutely no way you'd need to strip cables so extensively here in the UK to get the full price for copper.
On the pump propellers that are rubber and all your rubber belts if u buy 303 Aerospace protectant and soak them in it for a half hour then dry them off and install it will make your belt and anything rubber or vinyl last twice as long. I promise it works!!
“Impeller pumps” not water pumps. The water pump is for the antifreeze and impeller pump is for fresh water. One idea, freeze the shaft before installing the bearings. If you are pressing a bearing into a housing. Freeze the bearing. Also. Something you should learn to get out a seized bolt. You don’t heat the bolt. You heat the casted medal around the bolt. Thats why the bolts are breaking. Think about heat expansion. Heating the bolt would make it expand into the threads. Also, simple green in the ultra sonic cleaner works well.
For your between-the-hull-tsunami, in the Spring, Costco sells CooLaRoo sail cloths, complete with rope. They come in triangle and rectangle shapes for about $20. Figuring out how and where to anchor them may be a challenge but, their affect on the wind is amazing. And they soften direct sun in summer. For the recalcitrant grease gun, the rubber piston at the bottom must be REVERSED. Assuming you are using a grease tube, which is what the gun is likely set up for, the rubber seal, shaped like a piston, is likely installed flat side up. To push bulk grease out, it needs to be reversed so the skirt goes in first and the piston is in the bottom. That assumes your piston is that shape. By inverting the piston, the pressure at the piston forces the skirt out and it seals, forcing the bulk grease up against the pump intake. Trying to push bulk up with the piston as is currently installed will slowly bypass the grease, making a mess and not greasing very much. This is because the piston is sized for a grease tube, which you don't have in bulk use. Hence the massive leak. Cheers and Merry Christmas!
Another good product. May I suggest you try and summarise the product's main points in your normal patter (as you did I think with one of the battery charging stations) and not as what sounds like a press release. Love your work!
“Impeller pumps” not water pumps. The water pump is for the antifreeze and impeller pump is for fresh water. One idea, freeze the shaft before installing the bearings. If you are pressing a bearing into a housing. Freeze the bearing. Also. Something you should learn to get out a seized bolt. You don’t heat the bolt. You heat the casted medal around the bolt. Thats why the bolts are breaking. Think about heat expansion. Heating the bolt would make it expand into the threads.
For removing the broken bolts,try welding a nut onto the broken piece.the heat penetrates down the stud and slowly work it out.might take a few time of welding nuts on but always works eventually
09:40 I would try to avoid hammering so the force goes through the balls. Use a smaller socket fit for the inner race when hammering the bearing onto the shaft.
Check out the link below and use my code 24EFXMASAL to get an extra 5% off all deals (Except flash sale products and recommended accessories). Valid until Dec 27th. bit.ly/3DhsL7y
9:36 - You should have used a smaller socket that lined up with the inner bearing race to drive that bearing onto that shaft Mads :)
Ultrasonic cleaners are a great tool to have around. As a former engineer for a major ultrasonics company there are a few tips that will help your cleaning adventures. Ultrasonics will accelerate the effect that the cleaning solution would normally have over time. The cavitation waves of ultrasonics can dislodge dirt but choosing the solution that best dissolves whatever is binding the dirt to the part is key. Don't put parts on the bottom of the tank because it will dampen and reduce the effect of the transducers bonded to the bottom, think of it as a speaker cone. Even warm water with a few drops of detergent (to break the surface tension of the water) will do a good job on common dirt. Ultrasonics is a line-of-sight process so orient your part so cavities face the transducers. You can place parts in small containers (thin wall plastic works best) of solvents and suspend them in the solution so you don't have to fill the entire tank of expensive solvents; even plastic bags will work.
I agree. Been using ultra sonic's for jewelry cleaning 50 years now. The solution type is key to good cleaning. Definitely suspending the parts helps a great deal. A full tank decreases ultrasonic wave action and cleaning. Great work Mads... best of luck!
Now that WAS useful. Thanks.
Wow! That was SO helpful! Had a cheap one and used it for everything almost everyday-until it died!
Hi captain Dumdum, I'm not surprised people are sending you gifts, you might be the nicest guy on UA-cam.
I'm a mechanic. Weld nuts to the broken bolt. Let cool, unthred. The heat when welding burns the corrosion. And the steel welding rod will not weld to the aluminum housing
It removes some bolts you would never think possible to remove.
2 things from an old mechanic 1. Left hand drill bits for broken bolts 2. Anti seize for assembly
More often than not the fastener will just unscrew itself before you are done drilling if you use a left-handed bit. Harbor Freight sells a cheap multi-bit kit in a blue plastic box for around $10-15. It was on sale on the end-cap display the last time I was at one of their stores.
Of note you want to hit on the inside race not the outside race when installing on shaft ...you just brinelled the bearings looking at reduced life. Use the vise jaws as a press instead of beating on the bearings
My chair got puckered when I saw that.
I was just about to type the same.. Always hit a bearing on the side that is being moved against another surface. For a shaft, hit on the inner bearing race, for a housing install, hit on the outer bearing race.
Ditto
Yikes! That bearing is toast..
came here to say the same. you can get away with a hammer but as you said you cannot have the impacts land on the rolling elements. so socket on whichever race is being pushed on/in
Mads - there are now inductive fastener heaters. They allow more precision in applying heat to seized bolts. I have had good luck with using both electronics air duster (the kind that uses freon propellant). Turn the can upside-down and it will drip propellant onto the bolt, and freeze it. Then you can use the inductive tool to heat - thermal shock to help pb blaster to penetrate. Be careful not to overheat and melt threads of softer material, and try to avoid extraction while hot in aluminum (aluminum threads will be soft).
Also, for ultrasonic cleaning, add plenty of surfactant to increase cavitation. I've used isopropyl alcohol (outdoors) which is not technically a surfactant (its a wetting agent), but it has a similar effect and is really cheap.
Come on Mads. You are a sailor. Colorful language is necessary, and required. You don't curse like a sailor, you ARE a sailor. So others merely act like you. Ergo, You are a role model.
Others may have offered the same broken bolt removal technique.
Lay a nut over the broken part of the bolt ...weld thru the nut center to secure nut to broken bolt...use lots of heat. Let cool off. Or you can shock with rapid cooling. Now try to remove bolt by twisting nut. Nut may snap off...no worries reweld. Try again. Generally the heat cycles help to break the rust and corrosion loose and the weld usually does not bond to the cadt material.
THE BEST penetrating juice I've ever found after years of unsticking hardware on vintage tractors.... is a DIY mix of Automatic Transmission Fluid and Acetone (50/50 mix.) Just be careful around plastics.
I think Mads needs to talk to Harbor Freight about getting a sponsorship as much as he goes down there.
It's only a few blocks from the yard too. I'm so jealous. I think I know where every Harbor Freight is near to the Atlantic ICW on the East Coast. The one in Vero Beach is right off of the Free Bus route and is only one transfer from the marina.
I am really enjoying this refit
Slowly he becomes Florida man, mmmm copper
Hi, always enjoy your videos. Unless I’m mistaken it looked like you were hammering/pressing the bearing onto the shaft using a socket on the outer race. Just a tip, if that was the case, always press/hammer the race that is in contact with the surface it is going onto or into..In this case the inner race was pressing onto the shaft. By using the outer race you are transferring all the force through the ball bearings. Depending on how much force you use you may have damaged the races or the balls….hope this helps Cheers and I’m looking forward to all your future videos on this cat!
Doesn't take much to brindle the bearings and ruin their lifespan. Then again on our pump the bearings ride in engine oil and there is almost no real load on them compared to their huge size due to how large the shaft is they need to be large. Shaft size is a function of the spine drive of the impeller not the load it carries. They'd probably last longer than the pump itself even if damaged by brindling.
@@svbarryduckworth628 Good tip, I was pointing out a general rule of thumb, I'm a bit overcautious after twisting wrenches on helicopters for just over 4 decades, I know this because my wife tells me so........:)
@@mikev4820 I agree. Our pump is nearly Identical to Mads. A Johnson Pump with the K-series impeller if I remember correctly. . It's going to need to have the water seal replaced again every couple hundred hours by our experience so if I were Mads I would probably let these bearings go for now and assess them again when the water seal fails.
Or if he wants to be extra cautious as you wisely advise just buy new bearings from an auto shop since they are only about $5-7 each or maybe get them off of Amazon. Install them correctly this time using a proper bearing installation pusher from Harbor Freight or at least pressing on the correct side of the race with the corresponding size socket keeping the loading on the race that is being pressed on as you stated. A boat isn't a helicopter but there are some times where having the engine overheating could wreck your boat such as coming in a tricky inlet or traversing the "rock pile" on the ICW.
You are the man… I commend you for being able to make a video solo while actually making progress on your project. I’ve tried to make a how to video and found myself getting extremely frustrated by the additional time it was taking trying to get good footage while still trying to get the job done.
Progress is being made, and in a positive direction. The props looked very nice. Keep the good stuff coming.
Merry Christmas to you as well! If you haven’t removed the broken bolts out of the heat exchanger. There is a process known as EDM or electronic disintegration machining look for a company that offers that there’s several of them around. It literally burns the bolts out without hurting the threads of the main part you wanna save. It’s is less invasive and costs less than traditional machining!
Cheers🎉
The most effective method to get rid of broken/seized bolts - particularly in blind holes - is to use a device called a spark eroder. Think of it like a welding arc but in reverse. Instead of putting molten metal into a job this thing vaporises it.
The nice thing is that it leaves the hole intact.
Available at all good engineering shops.
When you drive bearings on a shaft, you want to press on the inner race. This may not be possible using sockets. Conduit works well. It can be slit is the size is a mismatch to the bearing inner race.
You ought to get a sponsorship from Harbor Freight.
Nice to see you bought yourself a ultrasonic cleaner I was just thinking that when I was watching the video you can get lots of different special cleaners to use in there something which is very low budget and works very well in an ultrasonic cleaner is dish soap just a small amount you will be surprised what it can do love the videos
PYI sells a grease gun that threads the squeeze tubes directly onto it. Its compact and affordable. After 12 years of MaxProp ownership, I switched to a different grease, something synthetic but still calcium sulphonate based. It’s also NLG-1 viscosity, same as Lubriplate AA. The grease I now uss Chevron Black Pearl. It is a little difficult to buy retail in single cartridges, but its worth hunting down. It has the highest resistance to water washout of any grease type, and is fully compatible with a Maxprop.
The palm grease gun is an amazing DIY tool. I have two, one with a grease zerk tip and one with a needle tip for fine work. The harbor freight version is OK but tends to leak grease back around the shaft of the mushroom button. HF copied the design from a name brand manufacturer and their version is a bit more expensive but doesn't get grease all over your hand as you use it. I have one of each.
I only took the one with the needle tip on my sailboat because it will still work with a zerk fitting by putting the needle right into the center of the fitting and carefully squirting it in. There are only a few zerk fittings on our sailboat and the only one I use regularly is the one on the outboard which greases the pivot of the steering to keep the outboard steering smoothly. It only takes a few pumps to fill.
Too real bro, "Every 5 min job is one broken screw away from turning into a 3 hr job" - Sail Life. Put it on a shirt I will buy it.
It's an old saying but it would still look good on a Sail Life T-shirt. My wife has been saying this since before I met her decades ago. She picked it up with her engineering degrees.
Can't wait to see this boat sail.
There should be a betting pool for the exact date.
I love Captain DumbDumb. Makes me realized I'm not alone in my bone-headedness sometimes. 👍
That fridge is mint !
Happy you could save some money on the rebuild. I always found when doing stuff like this is that the information and knowledge you gain doing it that way is even more valuable for the next time you need to fix something on it. Knowing how something like that works and is put together is almost priceless. BTW just throw the copper wire in a burn barrel. That will burn off all the insulation and tin.
You really should heat the body of the heat exchanger instead of the bolt itself. The aluminium expands and gives space for the bolt to move. Reinstall bolts with ceramic anti seize (steel and aluminium dont work together well as you know)
That’s actually kind of a myth. When you heat metal each atom tries to get further away from the other metal atoms so it depends on the shape of the metal. If you have something in the shape of a ring, like a bearing, the atoms spreading out around the circumferential direction overcome the amount they spread inward and outward in radial direction. When the hole is in a housing they will try to spread out but have no where to go so they actually make the hole smaller. Heating the housing helps in the temperature difference and thermal expansion/contraction helps break any rust or corrosion and the threads are more malleable. It does risk damage on smaller components like this. Better off heating the bolt although making the bolt more malleable could cause easier breakage.
@ryanp0342 okay, so it depends on the shape of the metal, but the housing is not restricted in expanding, so it can freely expand, opening up the hole of the bolt? Aluminium is a great conductor of heat, so the whole housing will become hot, expanding in its totality.
@ I think heating up more of the housing just means that more metal will be trying to push inward. Could be wrong about this but I think it is mainly dependent on the inner and outer diameter’s for a simplified 2d model. For a ring or bearing the outer diameter is not much bigger than the inner so you get a ratio of 1.1:1 to maybe 2.0:1. For a housing the outside of the housing is your outer diameter so you could have ratios 2:1 up to practically infinite:1. If it isn’t a function of diameter then if would probably be a function of the area which just means it is even worse going from linear to quadratic. There are some videos where people measure the diameter of a bolt hole and then heat it up and measure again. Really interesting problem and I thought the same as you a few months ago.
@ryanp0342 okay, but if i scale an object by heating by 5%, hole dimensions also grow by 5%. Everything expands linearly. I got professional experience pressing couplings onto shafts. The coupling is specified to be heated so it expands (and the inner bore of the coupling also increases in size) after which it is fitted on the shadt. When the coupling cools down, it becomes an interference fit with the shaft.
@ Yes, I’ve heated bearings up in the oven and cooled shafts in the freezer before to create an interference fit. I’m not saying it doesn’t work but that it is dependent on ratio of the diameters. An engine block with a small hole isn’t getting the benefit of the inner diameter increasing, it will decrease. Maybe heating the entire part helps some or completely but you are not going to be able to do that a lot of the time especially with blowtorch. What is the ratio(outer diameter/inner diameter) of the coupling? Im guessing it is less than 2-3.
Happy holidays, bro. You made me laugh a lot today. You were so funny and felt natural effort. Thank you so much. And I truly enjoyed seeing you do the prop and water pump. Great job.
I'm glad all went well with the prop. Take care and have a fantastic Christmas
You buy cool stuff, its like a really satisfying man shopping channel!
I just about hurt myself when you pulled that basket up from the cleaner .. That is so me for sure ,,, We need a Dum Dum society created , lol ... 😁
Aw-Thanks, Mads & Ava! Merry Christmas and hope you have a nice break!
Mads, when you install the Max props, ensure you test the thrust direction on the props.
Simply hold a blade and turn the shaft in the correct rotation to match the engine rotation.
The feathering props will then rotate and lock in the forward thrust position.
Check this is the correct orientation, i.e. pushing water astern.
This is a simple test, you don't want to splash and find you go astern when you engage forward.
cheers
Please, when installing a bearing make sure you are not putting force on the ball bearings. If the inner ring is the one with interference fit, hit on the inner one. If you in that case hit on the outer one the force is transmitted to the inner ring via the balls and that is no bueno! The result of that is small dents in the bearing surface and will make the bearing fail.
GREAT WORK MADS , and wishing you all a very Merry Christmas and a Great new year . 😉👍👍💅
Free All is the best for getting stuck bolts out. Give it a try. Im restoring a 1953 Dodge truck and its the only thing that has welped with those sticky bolts. Its the magic sauce!
Good to see you laughing at the mechanical stuff. Soldier on Mr Mads, it is a real pleasure to follow along...
9:39 : here you should have used the inner race to put pressure on.
God Jul Mads och Ava!
just had the greatest idea ever - turn the port hull into a full time workshop , as its only you and the wife you could live in the deck cabin and the starboard hull . also happy xmas to you and ava
Hey Mads! Loving the new project boat/cat and the good'ol fun you add to it❤
Please tell me you're converting one of the rooms into a workshop with a bench like in the trailer. That was my dream and I'm positive you would love that. Cheers.
@abom79 is a Florida based machinist that also has a UA-cam channel, he has removed many stuck bolts
Instead of using a screw driver as a punch get yourself a pin punch set and a couple of brass drifts, for larger jobs I have some scrap pieces of cold roll shaft to use as a punch. Cheers and good luck.
Mads is really embracing the florida lifestyle - scrapping a wheelbarrow of copper from his boat 😅
That ecoflow glacier looks cool😊
$61 !! That is a bunch more frozen treats for that new portable fridge! I'd call that a WIN for sure! :>
Merry Christmas and/or Happy Holidays to you guys too!
The money from your scrap wire paid for one of your pumps!! ❤ Happy holidays!
Leave yourself a big note to grease those props. 😊 Happy Holidays ❤
Heat the housing around bolt shaft not bolt head.
Big difference 🤠
Really needed a smiling face today...thanks Mads!
Keep all the brass/copper offcuts from the cable ends they can be sold as well. Thanks for sharing. ATB regards from the UK
Merry Christmas and Happy New Year ! From Allan on Vancouver Island British Columbia.
Merry Christmas Mads and Ava!
Saving some $$$$$$$$. Every little bit helps. Now you can keep cold beverages and some ice cream. Great job cleaning up the exchanger and feathering props.
Happy holidays and merry boat projects !
Great vlog, thanks and a very merry Christmas to you and yours.
Hi Mads, when cleaning engine parts it might be beneficial for you to look into getting an ultrasonic cleaner. They cost less than 200 usd and can clean the inside of engine parts to a degree that is impossible to do manually. As always thanks for a great show.
Edit: …and 10 minutes after in the video, that is what you did. Brilliant minds think alike. 😂
Have a good Christmas and a happy boating new year 🎉🎉
More from Harbor freight, try the magnetic bowls or plates, the magnets may hold the stuff in the bowl and if you build into your table some metal strips or some magnets the plates and parts will stay put in a breeze.
Happy holidays! Those props would make a nice star on the top of a reinforced tree!
For someone who was reluctant to do ads/commercials in the videos, you're pretty good at it. I actually watch them instead of skipping.
Products are relevant to the channel
❤❤❤ Outstanding! Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year 🎉
Glaedelig jul og godt nytaar til jer begge 🎄🎉🍾🥂🇩🇰🇩🇰
Merry Christmas!
Happy Harbor Freight shopping sprees with your recycling efforts... :)😊
Happy holidays to you and Ava.
When you drill out the bolts to make a hole for the extractor it relieves pressure between the bolt and housing. Allows the thin ring of bolt that’s left to contract.
Mads, for stuck bolts, an induction bolt heater, from Amazon works well.
Merry Christmas all.
Merry Christmas
Merry Christmas & and the Happiness New Year 🎉
Thank you for sharing this video 😊
Hi Mads Thank you for a fastastick show. DIT penetrading flued: 1 part hydroclic oil 1 part acetone this can losen a rusted bicycel chain. Merry Christmas from Herning DK
Happy Holidays! Your channel is absolutely terrific. :-)
Mads, last time I had broken and corroded stainless steel bolts on my sailboat, someone turned me on to left hand threaded drill bits. I was super skeptical but also desperate as those extractors didn't grip at all. However, These worked great. The idea is you drill a slightly smaller hole and at some point, the bit will catch on the metal if used at low speed. The worst case is that it still doesn't budge and you can a.) add heat to the middle of the bolt and give it room to expand, b.) try to use the extractor on the hole or c.) have most of the bolt drilled out for drilling and retapping.
Years ago we were renovating our building and I would haul in truckloads of copper. Didn’t ever strip it, but would make like $400 per trip. It paid for the new wire, it the electrician, but it was something.
This is about DYI boat repair- not sailing. I like it this way. No other expectations.
Glædelig jul til jer begge. 🎄🎁🍷😊🇩🇰
A little Dawn dish soap in the ultrasonic cleaner will make it more effective. Degreaser can also help even more but you do need to think about chemical reactions that may be accelerated by the heat.
Blue Dawn is what I use. It doesn't take much. It also helps with cleaning the tank out too of the sludge that can build up.
Merry Christmas Mads!
Hej Mads rigtig god jul og godt nytår. See you 👍🏼🇩🇰🥰
Happy holidays & Season's greetings
With regards to removing the stuck studs if they were wiggling when they broke off you can probably get away with just drilling them with a left-handed drill bit and they might just self-extraxt before you get them fully drilled to accept the EZ-out extractors. If you use a punch to get the drill bit centered and perhaps use a tiny drill to start the hole so it doesn't walk out of center the drilling goes pretty well and more often than not they will come right out while still drilling with a left-handed drill. Harbor Fright sells the left-handed or reverse direction bits fairly cheaply in a set. These are must-have boat tools along with a hammer-operated hand-impact driver set which I have found helps get stuck bolts out without breaking them most of the time. They work even better than a powered impact driver for this. The impact of the hammer helps and the process goes slower which helps the bolt not to break.
We have almost that identical raw water pump but with a slightly different connection to our Volvo-Penta 2003T diesel. It is a good design because there is an air gap between the impeller water pump side and the bearings on the driver side. This is good because the first thing to fail on these (besides the impeller) is the seal on the water side. The water falls harmlessly out rather than into the bearings or the engine oil if direct-drive.
Ours goes out about every 200-250 hours and begins to leak a tiny bit. You can push it another 20-30 hours but eventually it will begin to leak more and more. (This is about two impellers worth of engine running time) Our pump is driven directly off of the engine via a large plastic gear wheel and the bearings are bathed in engine crankcase oil. They will probably last forever and I no longer bother changing them. The only parts really ever needed is the little seal on the water side of the pump and impellers. The seal is actually a quick job -faster than removing and reinstalling the pump by far. The oil seal on the bearing side lasts forever too. It's the water seal that is the weak spot on this pump after the impellers themselves. Both are consumables IMHO.
Eventually after a couple thousand hours (depending on how silty the seawater is) the cam shoe will wear out inside of the pump and you will know it when the bolt that holds it from the outside is leaking water. That's because the threads are so short at that point that they can no longer remain water tight. New ones are not that expensive but be sure to get a new bolt too since it wears away with the cam. At about this same time the cover plate is getting worn too and depending where your raw water intake is may cause a difficulty in self-priming. The covers are cheap at Parts 4 Engines but they do not carry just the seals the last time I checked. They only come with the rebuild kit. You won't have noticed how the pump was not pumping as much because it happens slowly but with a new cam it will pump a LOT more water but impeller life will go down a lot too since it is deforming more as it spins. Don't let this bite you like it did me! Back-flushing for impeller parts sucks.
I would suggest that you buy a spare pump anyhow and keep it in a ready to go condition so when one of your pumps starts to leak you can quickly swap it out and then rebuild it later at your own convenience. Buy a half dozen of the seals because they are sort of hard to find at a decent price. The lifespan of the seals can be extended a little bit if you drain and/or flush the pumps with fresh water before you let them sit for more than a couple of weeks without running the engine.
Noted the bearing being fitted to the water pump shaft was being driven down on the outer race and not the inner race. I would recommend to change the bearing if this was indeed the case.
Liked. Hope you and Ava have a Merry Christmas.
You made it prior to Christmas so Merry Christmas and Happy New Year from a windy cold icy day next to Lake Michigan. Escanaba Mi. Gallivant a Catalina 36. 5 months to splash down.
Interesting video, Merry Christmas to you and Eva.
The quickest wày Ive found to strip cable for scrap is to set fire to it. Chuck it on the bonfire and bingo. Smells a bit but hey. 👍
Goodness, what a primitive system for metal recycling. There's absolutely no way you'd need to strip cables so extensively here in the UK to get the full price for copper.
Merry Christmas to you and your wife😄😄🌲🌲🌲🌲🌲🌲
Love watching this channel
On the pump propellers that are rubber and all your rubber belts if u buy 303 Aerospace protectant and soak them in it for a half hour then dry them off and install it will make your belt and anything rubber or vinyl last twice as long. I promise it works!!
“Impeller pumps” not water pumps. The water pump is for the antifreeze and impeller pump is for fresh water.
One idea, freeze the shaft before installing the bearings. If you are pressing a bearing into a housing. Freeze the bearing.
Also. Something you should learn to get out a seized bolt. You don’t heat the bolt. You heat the casted medal around the bolt. Thats why the bolts are breaking. Think about heat expansion. Heating the bolt would make it expand into the threads.
Also, simple green in the ultra sonic cleaner works well.
Hello there mr ”danish handyman” I wish you a marry Christmas!🙏👍👏🇸🇪
Merry Christmas!!
For your between-the-hull-tsunami, in the Spring, Costco sells CooLaRoo sail cloths, complete with rope. They come in triangle and rectangle shapes for about $20. Figuring out how and where to anchor them may be a challenge but, their affect on the wind is amazing. And they soften direct sun in summer. For the recalcitrant grease gun, the rubber piston at the bottom must be REVERSED. Assuming you are using a grease tube, which is what the gun is likely set up for, the rubber seal, shaped like a piston, is likely installed flat side up. To push bulk grease out, it needs to be reversed so the skirt goes in first and the piston is in the bottom. That assumes your piston is that shape. By inverting the piston, the pressure at the piston forces the skirt out and it seals, forcing the bulk grease up against the pump intake. Trying to push bulk up with the piston as is currently installed will slowly bypass the grease, making a mess and not greasing very much. This is because the piston is sized for a grease tube, which you don't have in bulk use. Hence the massive leak. Cheers and Merry Christmas!
Endless enjoyment watching a european discover our disposable tool center aka harborfreight
Another good product. May I suggest you try and summarise the product's main points in your normal patter (as you did I think with one of the battery charging stations) and not as what sounds like a press release. Love your work!
“Impeller pumps” not water pumps. The water pump is for the antifreeze and impeller pump is for fresh water.
One idea, freeze the shaft before installing the bearings. If you are pressing a bearing into a housing. Freeze the bearing.
Also. Something you should learn to get out a seized bolt. You don’t heat the bolt. You heat the casted medal around the bolt. Thats why the bolts are breaking. Think about heat expansion. Heating the bolt would make it expand into the threads.
You’re one of a kind 👊🏽
For removing the broken bolts,try welding a nut onto the broken piece.the heat penetrates down the stud and slowly work it out.might take a few time of welding nuts on but always works eventually
09:40 I would try to avoid hammering so the force goes through the balls. Use a smaller socket fit for the inner race when hammering the bearing onto the shaft.