I'm doing the rear window lip on a 68 Cadillac DeVille but I hadn't done lead in over 30 yrs so I needed a refresher course & let me tell you of the videos I've watched you nailed everything, prep, material, safety, explanation, the whole 9 yards! Nails! Thank You
Super video I doubt I will ever need to do this but have always been fascinated as to what the process is, great to see you doing it the old fashioned way as well
Great video showing not only how to lead the panel but pointing out the safety aspects of doing this job is this kind of repair something you ask the customer their choice because of the price difference between just filling the area or leading then filling because of the extra time and costs cheers Tony
Not so much asking the customer mate but more the budget you’ve set in the initial price of the job if you’ve set a good enough budget on your price then you can allow for leasing the repair areas , if a customer can’t stretch to the extra you want to pop on then if just make them aware we will do what we can but it’s only going to last so long so to speak
I enjoyed watching the vid mate it brought back a few memories of leadin when I did it plus the smell you get from doing it I think its a nice smell ill never forget it as I say thank you again for keeping the true old ways alive
@@TonysRefinishingTV I fell yesterday right on my bad knee to say it hurts would be an understatement ha ha why is it when we get hurt its always on an old injury
I've just had my first Sunday morning off in more than a month and I finally got to catch up with your Copart project vids and this one. Mate, you're an inspiration to us all and a credit to your trade. Your unwavering desire to do the job right, whatever it might be, regardless of the time and effort involved is what puts you at the top of your game and sets you apart from the rest. You deserve every success that comes your way.
Honestly man Thankyou buddy that comment mate means alot dude and yeah for me it’s always a job being right comes first over anything else bud , hope you are well fella , and also don’t push it to hard man I have been doing lately and last night it put me in hosp in not a good way so take some rest time too fella you need it trust me
@@TonysRefinishingTV 100% m8,I find alot of the time with old classics the previous repairs are with lead so best to keep them that way rather than just throwing filler at it,I also do alot of campers,looking forward to seeing this one complete m8
Thanks dude il be doing a few videos on this one mate next Friday will be the front interior in tinted raptor so from an old school to new on the same van lol
@@TonysRefinishingTV I usually end up with more lead on floor than on panel Lol. Temperature control is key to this process. Arthur Tussik makes it look easy in his videos.
Great job as always 👍 I didn't realise you did proper metal work too. When I lived up that way and was trying to find someone to do some rust repairs on my e36 no one really wanted to know
Yeah man I’ve learnt over the years to do the whole job start to finish mate , and most shops don’t mate as il be honest most customers don’t wana pay for the labour it takes
Enjoyed the video, going to watch some of the others - I like the format. I'm also restoring an old VW (as a hobbyist) and one thing I've noticed is if I don't scrub the acid off thoroughly with bicarb of soda to neutralise it, it will cause serious rusting in a matter of days. I'm very much not an expert but for me this has become a crucial step in lead filling and I didn't see any mention of it in the video.
I have to say mate I’ve not had an issue with it but I always finish up bu completely sanding up the area to make sure the metal is perfectly clean before I do anything else so that’s probably getting rid of it
That was a boss repair Tony I really enjoyed watching it and you always taking us by surprise haha 😂 keep it up much love and respect ✊ all the best in the next one ☝️ Tony 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👌👌👌👌👌✊✊✊✊✊🤙🤙🤙🤙🤙☝️💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯👏👏👏👏👏👏👊👊👊👊👊💪💪💪💪🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏
The last time I would have seen lead loading done would have ben around 1991 when Mulliner Park Ward closed and I joined the 500 odd skilled redundant workers. Those Corniche had a LOT of lead on them. The lead loading was adjascent to the build line, with an air flow syatem that took the air from the metal detail shop and would have picked up the air from the lead laoders, along with all the welding smoke from the build line... mostly galvanised fumes, right down to the start of the build line, before being sucked out through the fans. No wonder we had pollution levels 400 times the legal limit before better extractors and masks and respirators were introduced. When we weren't on extended tea breaks the air was totally blue, and you couldn't see from one end of the shop to the other.
@@TonysRefinishingTV it’s how it was back in the day. I used to get sore throats and nose bleeds. When I started using simple carbon masks many people laughed, especially the smokers. But over time they followed suit. Finally a University of London test showed we were in a bad way, and better ventilation and forced air helmets were introduced. Things improve. It’s the Auto Industry equivalent of children working down the mines. :)
Captain, they do any metal chelation therapy on you ? Maybe you still have lead in your system ?? IDK.....I read a book on automotive manufacturing and in the 50's at Chrysler, they ran the engines, the whole room was black, and people were smoking too !! Ahhhhhhhhh...industrial hygiene, what's that ?
@@DanTheManIOM I am now 70 and working like a crazy man with agriculture in Grenada W.I. I am probably rotten with all kinds of contaminants. I even used to re-line clutches and brake shoes back when they were asbestos. Luckily maybe because of genetics and not growing up in the over sanitised world we live in today I have yet to have any real negative outcomes. Fingers crossed it stays that way :)
@@DanTheManIOM when I repaired and maintenance buses, as you walked across the yard it was a heavy blue white smoke first thing from idling buses. Again sore throat. A review was done and they said it was only inflammatory and not carcinogenic. ......riiiiiigggght.
Thanks tony this is brilliant. I would like to do this on some areas of my car instead of using thick filler. Just where, as you say there is some putting or not perfect welding :)
@@TonysRefinishingTV exactly. I’m planning to restore this car more than once in my lifetime so hoping that when I get it sandblasted again the lead loading won’t come off whereas filler would!
@@TonysRefinishingTV haha that’s the plan. After I have finished fabricating some body panels! It’s going to be a replica of a Mgb sebring race car but made all out of steel so if I need to sandblast it again after this time. For instance the seam between the wing and arches will be solid steel. Not sure if that makes sense as I don’t know if you have seen a sebring B but that’s the idea haha
1) Tony 2) VW Bus 3) New tools/materials/techniques -- What's not to like ? In my uncles old garage, I found lead bars, and 2 wooden paddles, one just like the one you have here...it's old...the engine hoist in the same garage was used in 1955, guessing the lead is from that same time period...it's down on my work bench....going to try it...you know, after the vanagon is DONE....
Hi buddy brilliant job!!! I have a nissan 350z with a few pinholes in wheel arch just wondering if this technique would be ok ? Don't want to use filler it would rust back in know time, thanks Paul
@@davidwilliamson2490 Aaah, North of Watford Gap.. I only did my thing in West London... So unless he did a stint in the South we wouldn't have bounced up.
That was fantastic Tony, always wanted to know the process for leading a car and know I know and was surprised as to how labour intensive it is and no wonder it isn't used that much these days. Going back to my old Cortina's they also used to braze some of the joints at the factory but I don't know why they did this, is this something you have done or do you know why it's done on some panel joints, cheers bud! 🤗👍
Yeah they used to do that allt mate braised joints then lead filled to smooth them out it’s just how it was back in the day mate and with the technology they had then , things then moved to spot welding now things are more rivets and panel bond , the industry is ever moving forward as technology does
Ok thanks Tony, my problem is that all my knowledge is from the 70's and 80's a time when I was really into cars and were all lowered/raised wide/big wheels, fitted a twin choke webber to an old Opel Ascona and thought I was the dogs whatsits 😎😂 man I'm getting old! 😬
Hi it Dale could you tell me what I did wrong I set my gun up for clear it was coming out really nice but started to drip out psi 25 is it cos a cheaper gun don't know bud
Dale, did you clean the gun between refills ? I noticed my instructor do that....I was mixing primer one night, just stood there and mixed and mixed, when he came in to refill his gun, he cleaned it out....same when we painted the top coat..you need to figure out what changed from when you started until it started to drip... worst case, sand it off and start over....that's what I was told...Good luck
Great video Tony, what primer do you use (epoxy ?) would etch primer and a 2K primer do the job or etch primer then a polyester primer / filler then 2K primer be ok ?
they would do mate yes but check out the latest few videos ive posted to see the epoxy and why i prefer that over normal primer on bare metal like this
Takes me back to 1977 when i was an apprentice working on a E type , leaded a bonnet and 6months later bubbles in other areas because the heat from the lead work we did generated tiny spots off rust too show there ugly head . It was a nightmare !!!!!
Beautiful video keeping the ancient arts alive ❤❤
Awesome to see you giving that old VW the kind of repair it deserves!
Thanks Chris and there was no other real way to do it other than the right way
I'm doing the rear window lip on a 68 Cadillac DeVille but I hadn't done lead in over 30 yrs so I needed a refresher course & let me tell you of the videos I've watched you nailed everything, prep, material, safety, explanation, the whole 9 yards! Nails! Thank You
Something I have always wanted to watch, thanks.
Your welcome Charles thanks for joining us for it mate
Super video I doubt I will ever need to do this but have always been fascinated as to what the process is, great to see you doing it the old fashioned way as well
Thanks buddy and yeah it’s not often I get to do it these days so thought you guys would enjoy it
Awesomeness Tony buddy 💖🙌👑✌️🙏
Thanks man
Great video showing not only how to lead the panel but pointing out the safety aspects of doing this job is this kind of repair something you ask the customer their choice because of the price difference between just filling the area or leading then filling because of the extra time and costs cheers Tony
Not so much asking the customer mate but more the budget you’ve set in the initial price of the job if you’ve set a good enough budget on your price then you can allow for leasing the repair areas , if a customer can’t stretch to the extra you want to pop on then if just make them aware we will do what we can but it’s only going to last so long so to speak
Nice one great to see old tried and tested methods
Thanks Chris
I enjoyed watching the vid mate it brought back a few memories of leadin when I did it plus the smell you get from doing it I think its a nice smell ill never forget it as I say thank you again for keeping the true old ways alive
Your welcome buddy always great to bring back memory’s for people bud hope you are wel
@@TonysRefinishingTV I fell yesterday right on my bad knee to say it hurts would be an understatement ha ha why is it when we get hurt its always on an old injury
Sod’s law I think they call that one mate
I normally use Evercoat Metal to Metal reinforced filler for these repairs. Thanks for showing us the old fashioned way !
Thanks for joining us buddy
Great video! Glad to see lead still being used.. getting ready to do the same on my beetle. Very nice job indeed 👌
Thanks Tom hope it helps abit
Dude this is an awesome video.....proper old school skills!
Thanks nick thought you guys might like it
I've just had my first Sunday morning off in more than a month and I finally got to catch up with your Copart project vids and this one. Mate, you're an inspiration to us all and a credit to your trade. Your unwavering desire to do the job right, whatever it might be, regardless of the time and effort involved is what puts you at the top of your game and sets you apart from the rest. You deserve every success that comes your way.
Honestly man Thankyou buddy that comment mate means alot dude and yeah for me it’s always a job being right comes first over anything else bud , hope you are well fella , and also don’t push it to hard man I have been doing lately and last night it put me in hosp in not a good way so take some rest time too fella you need it trust me
@@TonysRefinishingTV I took your advice bud and did nothing all day yesterday but relax. Now PLEASE follow your own advice and rest up a little too ;)
Lol I’m stepping back and resting abit mate don’t worry 😉
Looking forward to this one, it's an old technique but a very skilled one that you don't see these days.
Well not long to wait John so make sure your awake lol
@@TonysRefinishingTV 🤭😂🤣
Interesting video never used led but may be one day I will get the chance thank you for the video very informative stay safe
Thanks husky and glad you enjoyed the video man
Great one Tony! Love to see this old techniqs..
Thanks man and yeah I thought it would be something a little different for you guys
Love lead loading,the shop I work does alot of old classic cars and this works great ,good work Tony
Thanks Andy and yeah it’s a paint to do compared to filler work but such a better longer lasting repair method especially on the older cars like this
@@TonysRefinishingTV 100% m8,I find alot of the time with old classics the previous repairs are with lead so best to keep them that way rather than just throwing filler at it,I also do alot of campers,looking forward to seeing this one complete m8
Thanks dude il be doing a few videos on this one mate next Friday will be the front interior in tinted raptor so from an old school to new on the same van lol
@@TonysRefinishingTV sounds Awsome bud,look forward to it👍
Excellent thanks Tony
Your welcome Doug
Old school. Like it.
Thanks man
Thank you Tony I'm going to order new gun cheers bud
This one will be good viewing as a lot of people would have never seen or even heard of this forgotten craft 😄😄
Well we shall see how it performs buddy
@@TonysRefinishingTV I usually end up with more lead on floor than on panel Lol. Temperature control is key to this process. Arthur Tussik makes it look easy in his videos.
He does it all the time man that’s why lol 😂
@@TonysRefinishingTV that vid took me back bud where was ya pipe and bib and brace overalls and a flat cap 😄😄😄😄👍👍
Lol 😂
Great video cheers Tony
Your welcome mate
Never even heard of this, very interesting thanks for another great video!
Thanks Geoff and it’s a very old school method for metal working but still a very good one thanks for joining us
Great job as always 👍 I didn't realise you did proper metal work too. When I lived up that way and was trying to find someone to do some rust repairs on my e36 no one really wanted to know
Yeah man I’ve learnt over the years to do the whole job start to finish mate , and most shops don’t mate as il be honest most customers don’t wana pay for the labour it takes
@@TonysRefinishingTV You’ve got one here that will pay for your skills.
great video tony i think i have the same kit not used lead for about 20 years 🤣🤣🤣🤣 will get it out soon and have a play 👊🏻👊🏻👊🏻👊🏻👊🏻
Haha thanks buddy and yeah it’s a great little kit man for the price
Enjoyed the video, going to watch some of the others - I like the format. I'm also restoring an old VW (as a hobbyist) and one thing I've noticed is if I don't scrub the acid off thoroughly with bicarb of soda to neutralise it, it will cause serious rusting in a matter of days. I'm very much not an expert but for me this has become a crucial step in lead filling and I didn't see any mention of it in the video.
I have to say mate I’ve not had an issue with it but I always finish up bu completely sanding up the area to make sure the metal is perfectly clean before I do anything else so that’s probably getting rid of it
Nice to see the old school techniques being applied. These arts are being lost in the modern shuffle.
Unfortunately your right there mate
Fascinating.
Thanks bud
That was a boss repair Tony I really enjoyed watching it and you always taking us by surprise haha 😂 keep it up much love and respect ✊ all the best in the next one ☝️ Tony 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👌👌👌👌👌✊✊✊✊✊🤙🤙🤙🤙🤙☝️💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯👏👏👏👏👏👏👊👊👊👊👊💪💪💪💪🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏
Lol try my best to keep you guys on your toes man haha
Cant wait Tony😃
Well you’ll have to haha 😂
The last time I would have seen lead loading done would have ben around 1991 when Mulliner Park Ward closed and I joined the 500 odd skilled redundant workers. Those Corniche had a LOT of lead on them. The lead loading was adjascent to the build line, with an air flow syatem that took the air from the metal detail shop and would have picked up the air from the lead laoders, along with all the welding smoke from the build line... mostly galvanised fumes, right down to the start of the build line, before being sucked out through the fans. No wonder we had pollution levels 400 times the legal limit before better extractors and masks and respirators were introduced. When we weren't on extended tea breaks the air was totally blue, and you couldn't see from one end of the shop to the other.
Oh god man that doesn’t sound good mate
@@TonysRefinishingTV it’s how it was back in the day. I used to get sore throats and nose bleeds. When I started using simple carbon masks many people laughed, especially the smokers. But over time they followed suit. Finally a University of London test showed we were in a bad way, and better ventilation and forced air helmets were introduced. Things improve. It’s the Auto Industry equivalent of children working down the mines. :)
Captain, they do any metal chelation therapy on you ? Maybe you still have lead in your system ?? IDK.....I read a book on automotive manufacturing and in the 50's at Chrysler, they ran the engines, the whole room was black, and people were smoking too !! Ahhhhhhhhh...industrial hygiene, what's that ?
@@DanTheManIOM I am now 70 and working like a crazy man with agriculture in Grenada W.I. I am probably rotten with all kinds of contaminants. I even used to re-line clutches and brake shoes back when they were asbestos. Luckily maybe because of genetics and not growing up in the over sanitised world we live in today I have yet to have any real negative outcomes. Fingers crossed it stays that way :)
@@DanTheManIOM when I repaired and maintenance buses, as you walked across the yard it was a heavy blue white smoke first thing from idling buses. Again sore throat. A review was done and they said it was only inflammatory and not carcinogenic. ......riiiiiigggght.
Amazing mate! 👏
Thanks fella hope you enjoyed the video and repair 😉
Good job
Thanks 😊
Thanks tony this is brilliant. I would like to do this on some areas of my car instead of using thick filler. Just where, as you say there is some putting or not perfect welding :)
It’s ideal for exactly those set of areas mate yes and is a full metal repair rather than polyester filler
@@TonysRefinishingTV exactly. I’m planning to restore this car more than once in my lifetime so hoping that when I get it sandblasted again the lead loading won’t come off whereas filler would!
Get it blasted mate lead load it and then epoxy it , do any small filler work you need to then prime and paint it’ll be awesome the.
@@TonysRefinishingTV haha that’s the plan. After I have finished fabricating some body panels! It’s going to be a replica of a Mgb sebring race car but made all out of steel so if I need to sandblast it again after this time. For instance the seam between the wing and arches will be solid steel. Not sure if that makes sense as I don’t know if you have seen a sebring B but that’s the idea haha
Yeah I know what you mean mate and will look good mate
1) Tony 2) VW Bus 3) New tools/materials/techniques -- What's not to like ? In my uncles old garage, I found lead bars, and 2 wooden paddles, one just like the one you have here...it's old...the engine hoist in the same garage was used in 1955, guessing the lead is from that same time period...it's down on my work bench....going to try it...you know, after the vanagon is DONE....
Lol I’d try not to use real old lead mate if I was you theres a lot more contaminants and crap in older lead buddy , glad you enjoyed the video dan
Good old school repair. I've used 60,lead 40 tin bars much safer , on my Vauxhall victor .
Hi buddy brilliant job!!! I have a nissan 350z with a few pinholes in wheel arch just wondering if this technique would be ok ? Don't want to use filler it would rust back in know time, thanks Paul
God tony my granda told me he used to do that when he worked coach works on buses hard task to master like some of the old ways for repairs
Yeah man there’s not many that still do it mate or even know how to but it’s such a great repair method still
Which coach works was he at.... in the UK? I was at Park Royal Vehicles back in the 70s
@@capnpugwash5403 j stewarts and son glasgow
@@davidwilliamson2490 Aaah, North of Watford Gap.. I only did my thing in West London... So unless he did a stint in the South we wouldn't have bounced up.
What a fantastic video tony . I think when this job is done right you dont need to put bondo on this,at least not so much
It will have a very small skin of finishing filler mate to put the very last shape in and that’s all bud , and glad you enjoyed the video mate
@@TonysRefinishingTV yes correct,at least a skim coat to fill in the scratches an tiny holes buddy true
Exactly mate
Donde puedo consegir ese material
Really interesting. Great vid as usual. Can you recommend a mini gun for primer that won't break the bank. Thanks
What’s your budget buddy
@@TonysRefinishingTV don't want to spend more than £50. On it
Problem with a mini gun is too size for primer I can recommend a half decent big gun that’s cheap ?
@@TonysRefinishingTV I see. What would be the larger one?
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/352469540235
this might come useful as I have a 1971 citroen DS that might require some kg's of lead.... lol
Haha 😂
That was fantastic Tony, always wanted to know the process for leading a car and know I know and was surprised as to how labour intensive it is and no wonder it isn't used that much these days.
Going back to my old Cortina's they also used to braze some of the joints at the factory but I don't know why they did this, is this something you have done or do you know why it's done on some panel joints, cheers bud! 🤗👍
Yeah they used to do that allt mate braised joints then lead filled to smooth them out it’s just how it was back in the day mate and with the technology they had then , things then moved to spot welding now things are more rivets and panel bond , the industry is ever moving forward as technology does
Ok thanks Tony, my problem is that all my knowledge is from the 70's and 80's a time when I was really into cars and were all lowered/raised wide/big wheels, fitted a twin choke webber to an old Opel Ascona and thought I was the dogs whatsits 😎😂 man I'm getting old! 😬
Lol we’re all getting old fella
Right thanks I'll go for 1 of them thanks again I keep buying cheep gun and there no good thanks pal
But cheap buy twice mate as they say a little bit more and you’ve got a well built branded gun fella
Hi it Dale could you tell me what I did wrong I set my gun up for clear it was coming out really nice but started to drip out psi 25 is it cos a cheaper gun don't know bud
I’ve not idea mate I’m afraid without seeing the gun or knowing what your using I can’t say on something like that mate
Dale, did you clean the gun between refills ? I noticed my instructor do that....I was mixing primer one night, just stood there and mixed and mixed, when he came in to refill his gun, he cleaned it out....same when we painted the top coat..you need to figure out what changed from when you started until it started to drip... worst case, sand it off and start over....that's what I was told...Good luck
Great video Tony, what primer do you use (epoxy ?) would etch primer and a 2K primer do the job or etch primer then a polyester primer / filler then 2K primer be ok ?
they would do mate yes but check out the latest few videos ive posted to see the epoxy and why i prefer that over normal primer on bare metal like this
Hi Tony sorry to bother you today but what website did you say you get you guns from??
Www.pmpsupplies.co.uk links also in the description
Takes me back to 1977 when i was an apprentice working on a E type , leaded a bonnet and 6months later bubbles in other areas because the heat from the lead work we did generated tiny spots off rust too show there ugly head . It was a nightmare !!!!!
Lol yeah there’s always a downside to everything mate
👍👏👏
Ok it's done my head in guns a TE-s air green it was £56 off eBay I need to stop buying things like this and get a good 1
For £110 mate you could have had the iwata htes we use in the beginner series mate
Using lead for car repairs is just as bad as using a filler, wouldn’t recommend.