I had 2 of these a 2008 and a 2014. Both sold at around 160K miles. Both AWD and both resided in the salty winter of central NY. Had some of these common problems. Water collector for AC backed up on both of them. Easy fix once I figured it out. Had to replace the blower motor on the first. Both had the sticking lift gate handle. Just had to remember to push it back manually. You get used to it haha. Heat shields fell off both and from everywhere. Scares you when it is dragging on the drive shaft. The 2014 had the front transfer case replaced at 36k for leaking under warranty. The 2008 had the bushings fail on the rear transfer case mount which cause failure of the shaft bearings. This was at the 150k point. Otherwise to be honest they were both very reliable cars needing nothing more than regular maintenance. They were reasonable to maintain as most of the mechanical stuff was ford sourced Engine, Brakes, rear transfer case etc. If you can find a used one in good shape and reasonable mileage you should have a good car!
@@gonzalosanzanaduarte9828 I changed it in 2020. I never had any issues with it. I think regular maintenance is the key. 3 months or 3000 miles. I’ve maintained that schedule from the beginning.
@@chitown256 Maintenance is fairly easy. I would get a mechanic to look at it before u pull the trigger. If the seller has issue with u seeing a mechanic then that means something is wrong with it.
i dont know if the one i owned was a unicorn but my family had it from 2012- 2021. the only things we replaced was front struts. a rear wheel bearing and the driveshaft. I swear i have never seen an engine light on that car. everything was original. I think it had 280k kms when we sold it.
Our 2011 has been mostly reliable, than a common problem in our region, where the spoiler would legit just break and pop off. legit have seen it in MANY other CX9's over my country. Second, the transmission fluids started leaking to my knowledge. The dealer wanted some amount of cash to change it, I'm not very technically sure what went wrong. The breaks also feel spongy, but it's weird me and a friend talked about it saying we prefer it this way. It gives a more smoother breaking feeling, + it anyways passed inspections so what gives lol. I didn't knew it was a common problem on it's own though. The transmissions also sometimes shift making huge clunks but it usually comes when you are in a parking lot and going Reverse, Drive, Reverse, Drive back 'n forth.
I had this happen but been told my engine is failing by 2 mechanics. Maybe I need a 3ed one . I do have a coolent leak that's getting worse every 3 day I have to put some in. The car is not over heating. We just replaced the wheel bearing & hub for $600 and than we're told our car is no good. I know tmi
If you are going through coolant and no external leaks, it’s the water pump and if you keep driving it the engine will be done. Some of the jobs on this car is crazy.
There’s a pending class action lawsuit against Mazda due to the flaw in the Cyclone engine design Mazda knew was problematic. Fraudulent claims of safety and reliability this leak of coolant into oil pan can and has caused catastrophic engine failure. Research lawsuits against Mazda and 2007-2016 water pump flaws. I have had nothing but problems from my 2012 CX9 terrible model year!!! I will NEVER BUY ANOTHER MAZDA AND I RECOMMEND NO ONE EVER BUY ONE EITHER!! Window motors, door locks motors , visor failures, powertrain, transfer case failure, hard shifting, steering shaft failure. Brake boosters (replaced 3 times since 2018) car just hit 100,000 7/2023. Purchased @ 19k miles. This model year is TRAAAAASH!
@@ellaenchanted3884 Thanks for all the feedback, I'll be running it for now until it fails in the mean time save a buck here & their for somethang. Have a great day
Former mechanic here. Most vehicles made after 2000 have some ridiculous engineering. My problem with Mazda is that you have to lift the engine, and take out the cooling fan and a bunch of other stuff to get out the fucking alternator. Even then it's a struggle. I miss old cars. Give me a 5th generation honda any day. I know they're easy to steal, but that can be dealt with. Mine got 45 miles to the gallon, ran like a champ, and had an engine I could probably lift out by hand.
@@sparkyswearsalotno u don’t all u have to do is remove the radiator and remove the tire next to the alternator to grab to hold from the side and use an extended wrench for the top bolt I fixed my moms Mazda cx-9 2012 yesterday alternator
@@Zouljakidd glad it was easy for you. I had to lift the engine to get the alternator out even though I had the tire off, the radiator out, and pretty much everything else I could get out of the way. Maybe I'm just bad at tetris. Still never buying another Mazda.
It is Japan. But the engine is Ford. I will be picking up my 2008 Mazda CX9 next week. I plan to do the following. Do * Oil Change and Replace Oil Filter * ATF Change and Filter * Coolant Change * Brake Fluid Flush and Refill Replace * Engine Air Filter * Cabin Air Filter * Spark Plugs * Ignition Coils * PCV Valve Replace Wheel Bearing and Hub * Front Passenger-Side is squealing Inspect and Replace as Necessary * Brake Booster * Strut Mounts-By Pair (probably will be done by the professionals since the struts will drop I think if I remove those) * Sunroof leak and BCM water contamination (kick panel on the left side) Replace (This will definitely be done by the professionals as I don't have a garage and needed tools) * Drive/Serpentine Belt * Tensioner * Water Pump * Thermostat * Timing Chain * Timing Chain Guide * Valve Lifters * Cam Seals * Crank Seals
I had 2 of these a 2008 and a 2014. Both sold at around 160K miles. Both AWD and both resided in the salty winter of central NY. Had some of these common problems. Water collector for AC backed up on both of them. Easy fix once I figured it out. Had to replace the blower motor on the first. Both had the sticking lift gate handle. Just had to remember to push it back manually. You get used to it haha. Heat shields fell off both and from everywhere. Scares you when it is dragging on the drive shaft. The 2014 had the front transfer case replaced at 36k for leaking under warranty. The 2008 had the bushings fail on the rear transfer case mount which cause failure of the shaft bearings. This was at the 150k point. Otherwise to be honest they were both very reliable cars needing nothing more than regular maintenance. They were reasonable to maintain as most of the mechanical stuff was ford sourced Engine, Brakes, rear transfer case etc. If you can find a used one in good shape and reasonable mileage you should have a good car!
Got mine new in 2007 . Currently have 290K miles. no issues but chose to change water pump timing chain.
Hi, When you change it?
@@gonzalosanzanaduarte9828 I changed it in 2020. I never had any issues with it. I think regular maintenance is the key. 3 months or 3000 miles. I’ve maintained that schedule from the beginning.
@@chitown256 Maintenance is fairly easy. I would get a mechanic to look at it before u pull the trigger. If the seller has issue with u seeing a mechanic then that means something is wrong with it.
i dont know if the one i owned was a unicorn but my family had it from 2012- 2021. the only things we replaced was front struts. a rear wheel bearing and the driveshaft. I swear i have never seen an engine light on that car. everything was original. I think it had 280k kms when we sold it.
Rear wheel bearing are a very common problem. I've had to do mine twice and have only had my 2012 for 3 years.
Good list. I have a 2012 and have had several of those issues. Change the fluid in the transfer case aka ptu every 30k miles to extend its life
Our 2011 has been mostly reliable, than a common problem in our region, where the spoiler would legit just break and pop off. legit have seen it in MANY other CX9's over my country.
Second, the transmission fluids started leaking to my knowledge. The dealer wanted some amount of cash to change it, I'm not very technically sure what went wrong.
The breaks also feel spongy, but it's weird me and a friend talked about it saying we prefer it this way. It gives a more smoother breaking feeling, + it anyways passed inspections so what gives lol. I didn't knew it was a common problem on it's own though.
The transmissions also sometimes shift making huge clunks but it usually comes when you are in a parking lot and going Reverse, Drive, Reverse, Drive back 'n forth.
Love that I'm getting all these mazda ads now that I've sworn the damn things off. My current 2010 CX9 is nothing but trouble and money.
I’m looking at one this week
I have one and no issues like that until now
Very good info... thank you.
The 3rd row does NOT have sufficient room. And I have never felt like I was driving on rails.
I have solenoid issues with the transmission.
Worth $3500 if I get it this year?
Saw ads near my area selling for that price
Same. I think I'll get one
I’m looking at buying a 2010 one is there something I need to know 236ks
I had this happen but been told my engine is failing by 2 mechanics. Maybe I need a 3ed one . I do have a coolent leak that's getting worse every 3 day I have to put some in. The car is not over heating. We just replaced the wheel bearing & hub for $600 and than we're told our car is no good. I know tmi
If you are going through coolant and no external leaks, it’s the water pump and if you keep driving it the engine will be done. Some of the jobs on this car is crazy.
I have one and at 160k the coolant all drained into the engine.
@@frankiemurillo711 Is steam coming out of the exhaust pipe. (white smoke)? If so it is the head gasket that needs replacing.
There’s a pending class action lawsuit against Mazda due to the flaw in the Cyclone engine design Mazda knew was problematic. Fraudulent claims of safety and reliability this leak of coolant into oil pan can and has caused catastrophic engine failure. Research lawsuits against Mazda and 2007-2016 water pump flaws. I have had nothing but problems from my 2012 CX9 terrible model year!!! I will NEVER BUY ANOTHER MAZDA AND I RECOMMEND NO ONE EVER BUY ONE EITHER!! Window motors, door locks motors , visor failures, powertrain, transfer case failure, hard shifting, steering shaft failure. Brake boosters (replaced 3 times since 2018) car just hit 100,000 7/2023. Purchased @ 19k miles. This model year is TRAAAAASH!
@@ellaenchanted3884 Thanks for all the feedback, I'll be running it for now until it fails in the mean time save a buck here & their for somethang. Have a great day
Why would an engineer make an engine that has to be removed to replace a water pump ? WTF I’m out .
Former mechanic here. Most vehicles made after 2000 have some ridiculous engineering. My problem with Mazda is that you have to lift the engine, and take out the cooling fan and a bunch of other stuff to get out the fucking alternator. Even then it's a struggle. I miss old cars. Give me a 5th generation honda any day. I know they're easy to steal, but that can be dealt with. Mine got 45 miles to the gallon, ran like a champ, and had an engine I could probably lift out by hand.
@@sparkyswearsalotno u don’t all u have to do is remove the radiator and remove the tire next to the alternator to grab to hold from the side and use an extended wrench for the top bolt I fixed my moms Mazda cx-9 2012 yesterday alternator
@@Zouljakidd glad it was easy for you. I had to lift the engine to get the alternator out even though I had the tire off, the radiator out, and pretty much everything else I could get out of the way. Maybe I'm just bad at tetris. Still never buying another Mazda.
My Mazda cx9 is madre in Japan no USA
It is Japan. But the engine is Ford.
I will be picking up my 2008 Mazda CX9 next week.
I plan to do the following.
Do
* Oil Change and Replace Oil Filter
* ATF Change and Filter
* Coolant Change
* Brake Fluid Flush and Refill
Replace
* Engine Air Filter
* Cabin Air Filter
* Spark Plugs
* Ignition Coils
* PCV Valve
Replace Wheel Bearing and Hub
* Front Passenger-Side is squealing
Inspect and Replace as Necessary
* Brake Booster
* Strut Mounts-By Pair (probably will be done by the professionals since the struts will drop I think if I remove those)
* Sunroof leak and BCM water contamination (kick panel on the left side)
Replace (This will definitely be done by the professionals as I don't have a garage and needed tools)
* Drive/Serpentine Belt
* Tensioner
* Water Pump
* Thermostat
* Timing Chain
* Timing Chain Guide
* Valve Lifters
* Cam Seals
* Crank Seals
@@hyperspaceexplorer5594 It's good to change the transfer case oil as well. Every 5000 miles.