Tie in go's up 18 inches up on to the transitions. You doing a good job at explaining what we run into while working on roofs and explaining how to properly flash them.
No, synthetic underlayments are not allowed via High Velocity Hurricane Zone (HVHZ) building code. HVHZ covers Monroe, Miami-Dade and Broward counties. We also work in Palm Beach, Martin and St. Lucie counties through my Jupiter branch (which is standard Florida Building Code) and we do not install synthetics. Asphaltic underlayments are better and thicker. We only install 80 mil Polyglass TU Plus under tile. We install 60 mil Polyglass IR-Xe under shingles and we install 80 mil Polyglass XFR (water and fire barrier) under metal. Polyglass is a FL local, I'm friends with the CEO Natalino and their HQ here is in Boca. They make great products and have even better customer service that I can depend on as a contractor. They actually back up their warranties, unlike many other manufacturers.
Thank you Felipe. We are coming to the west side of Florida to help out with the storm damage if you know anyone who needs any roofing help, please let us know.
I have watched a lot of videos since I’m getting a roof soon and your video was so easy to understand thank you for the camera work and the explanation I’m sure I’ll have a question at some point
Well I just got my new roof finished two days ago and I’m really upset at the contractors because one of the soffit screens was blocked by insulation and that was discovered by another contractor who is coming over to give me an estimate, anyway the discussion was they were going to remove the plywood above that particular screen cut back the insulation or move it out of the way and then I come to find out that they didn’t do that and they created another intake on that same area but on the east side of the house. It was the roof over the front small bedroom guess it was the rake lol anyway I didn’t approve of this now I have a extra hole in my roof with some bizarre intake vent with it looks like shingles on top. I’m so upset and they are coming over tomorrow morning and I just I’m not sure how to approach this I want them to do the entire area again but that’s going to require so much work because of the metal valleys and the flashings etc. and even if they repair that one area now I would have a roof repair on a brand new roof
We work from the Florida Keys up to Port St. Lucie on a daily basis. We have been hired to work in other parts of Florida but have to charge additional travel / lodging expenses. Please let us know if interested. Unfortunately, I do not. I would recommend hiring someone out of Florida, rather than George however due to the major code differences.
What system - single-ply (peel-n-stick directly to over the plywood) or double-ply (peel-n-stick over 30# of felt paper) would you recommend doing? Appreciate your answer and perhaps you can put a new video together discussing this topic. Thanks!
Hi Vitaly, in South Florida HVHZ (high velocity hurricane zone), we must install double-ply for tile roofs. We can not install a self-adhered directly to structural wood down here. A shingle roofing system would have 30# felt mechanically attached with shingles installed on top (unless the owner opts for a secondary water barrier), whereas a metal roof needs a fire barrier over the 30# since metal is more combustable and does not meet the necessary UL ratings for Miami-Dade code.
@@perkinsroofingcorp . Thanks for the reply. I am a consumer trying to chose between two options offered by two different contractors. So I am reading various material. This FBC document - www.floridabuilding.org/fbc/thecode/2020_7edition/Roofing_Fact_Sheet-2_column_format052820Final.pdf gives 3 options, with Option 1 being a single-ply self-adhered membrane applied directly to the decking. Option 2 adds a tape applied over all joints in the roof decking and then covered with peel-n-stick. And Option 3 is what you're referring to - two-ply where the base 30# felt is mechanically attached to plywood and then covered with peel-n-stick. It also says that the tile roofs (the one I have) must be in accordance with the FRSA/TRI Florida High Wind Concrete and Clay Roof Tile Installation. This doc is here - tileroofing.org/wp-content/uploads/Florida-High-Wind-Tile-Installation-Manual-6th-Edition-092020.pdf. It gives essentially the same options (tape is not one of them). I am trying to decide which one is better. Am I missing something? Should I refer to a different document that only allows a two-ply system? I live in Palm Beach county.
@@vitalyshtulman6351 Palm Beach does not fall under HVHZ (even though it should). We do work up there if you would like a quote. I'm actually working on opening a Jupiter location by the end of the year. I would recommend Option 3, because that's what we do in Dade and Broward under HVHZ, then #2 - it's obviously cheaper as it uses less material for option 1 and 2, but option 3 is what is required by HVHZ and Palm Beach will eventually fall under HVHZ, it's been in the works. I'm not sure if insurance would give you any additional credits, but you would if you add a secondary water barrier or hurricane strapping. Let me know if we can help!
You do not mention roof vents in this video. You do mention soffit screens, which is one part of the roof ventilation system, but I see no vents on the roof itself, not even ridge vents. How is the roof supposed to ventilate with no elevated vents where the hot air can rise inside the attic and out the vents? I have learned from your videos, but I don't see a single video addressing the issue of roof ventilation. I am learning more than I ever wanted to know about my house during the process of recovering from major storm surge flooding in my house during Hurricane Ian. My attic is hot as the place you go if you don't go to heaven. It has been super hot ever since I purchased the home 20 years ago. I replaced the tile roof 16 years ago and now I'm realizing the roofer did not install any roof vents or ridge vents. The hot air is trapped in my attic! I will be having a new tile roof installed within the next 30-45 days and I want to knowledgable about roof vents to make sure my roofer does the venting correctly. Here in Disaster World NOBODY seems to know how to do their jobs in the various skilled trades. Consumers assume roofers, plumbers, electricians, window installers, stucco installers, drywallers, etc. know how to do their jobs, BUT THEY DO NOT! Everything has to be done at least two times and sometimes up to four times before they get it somewhat right. This is extremely frustrating. You seem to know how to perform your skilled trade of roofing, so I'd like to know what you know about roof ventilation, including exactly what types of vents you recommend I should install for my new tile roof. I do have soffit vents spaces about every 12 feet around my house. But again, those soffit vents do no good unless there are vents somewhere on the higher elevations of the roof to allow the rising hot air to escape from the attic. Thank you!
Yeah, the issues over there are all of the roofers are from out of state. Even the in-state roofers are subcontracting guys from out of state or out of country. I know, I've done work over there and the work I see going on is terrible. People are recovering homes with bad or damaged underlayments. Anyways, in regards to the ventilation - you have two choices if the soffit vents do not work well enough. The first are whirly birds (turbines), but you need to have wind. Second are solar gooseneck vents, which are good, but not cheap. They run about $400 for a 10 watt (1,200 SF per vent) and $700 for a 25 watt (2,600 SF per vent). They both have little motors for active ventilation, but the solar ones work better generally and will last longer. The turbines can be made in aluminum, which I would recommend if you are 2,000' from salt water. The turbines usually cost about $250.
Thank you so much! Just had my roof done...you helped me understand the process and the names of parts of the roof...WELL DONE!!!!
Glad we could help!
Great video as a homeowner. This is the foundation information I needed.
Thank you! We work hard on these and appreciate the kind words. If you need roofing services in the South Florida area, please let us know!
Thanks for your video..
You are very welcome! Happy to help! If you are in Florida, please let us know if you would like any assistance.
Nice one
I ❤ this
Thank you, we appreciate the feedback!
Tie in go's up 18 inches up on to the transitions. You doing a good job at explaining what we run into while working on roofs and explaining how to properly flash them.
Thank you, the more the clients know, the better for all involved.
Thanks for the video
Thank you for watching, we hope to help out if you ever need roofing in South Florida!
nice video, just curious in Miami is synthetic underlayment more common than peel and stick for a re-roofing ?
No, synthetic underlayments are not allowed via High Velocity Hurricane Zone (HVHZ) building code. HVHZ covers Monroe, Miami-Dade and Broward counties. We also work in Palm Beach, Martin and St. Lucie counties through my Jupiter branch (which is standard Florida Building Code) and we do not install synthetics. Asphaltic underlayments are better and thicker. We only install 80 mil Polyglass TU Plus under tile. We install 60 mil Polyglass IR-Xe under shingles and we install 80 mil Polyglass XFR (water and fire barrier) under metal. Polyglass is a FL local, I'm friends with the CEO Natalino and their HQ here is in Boca. They make great products and have even better customer service that I can depend on as a contractor. They actually back up their warranties, unlike many other manufacturers.
Great info!
👍 Thank you for the information!
No problem, happy to help!
Great content sir!
Thank you Felipe. We are coming to the west side of Florida to help out with the storm damage if you know anyone who needs any roofing help, please let us know.
Good work
Thank you!
I have watched a lot of videos since I’m getting a roof soon and your video was so easy to understand thank you for the camera work and the explanation I’m sure I’ll have a question at some point
Thank you for the nice comment, I appreciate it! I'm happy to help with any questions!
Well I just got my new roof finished two days ago and I’m really upset at the contractors because one of the soffit screens was blocked by insulation and that was discovered by another contractor who is coming over to give me an estimate, anyway the discussion was they were going to remove the plywood above that particular screen cut back the insulation or move it out of the way and then I come to find out that they didn’t do that and they created another intake on that same area but on the east side of the house.
It was the roof over the front small bedroom guess it was the rake lol anyway I didn’t approve of this now I have a extra hole in my roof with some bizarre intake vent with it looks like shingles on top. I’m so upset and they are coming over tomorrow morning and I just I’m not sure how to approach this
I want them to do the entire area again but that’s going to require so much work because of the metal valleys and the flashings etc. and even if they repair that one area now I would have a roof repair on a brand new roof
@@dcwatashi Did they install a shingle ridge vent? At that point it might be better for them to install a solar gooseneck from the top.
How far north do you work in Florida? If not who is a good installer in Fernandina area?
We work from the Florida Keys up to Port St. Lucie on a daily basis. We have been hired to work in other parts of Florida but have to charge additional travel / lodging expenses. Please let us know if interested. Unfortunately, I do not. I would recommend hiring someone out of Florida, rather than George however due to the major code differences.
Excellent
Thank you!
What a professional Bro !! Do you want to start a Roofing School for extra cash lmao 🤣
haha, that will be my retirement job
What system - single-ply (peel-n-stick directly to over the plywood) or double-ply (peel-n-stick over 30# of felt paper) would you recommend doing? Appreciate your answer and perhaps you can put a new video together discussing this topic. Thanks!
Hi Vitaly, in South Florida HVHZ (high velocity hurricane zone), we must install double-ply for tile roofs. We can not install a self-adhered directly to structural wood down here. A shingle roofing system would have 30# felt mechanically attached with shingles installed on top (unless the owner opts for a secondary water barrier), whereas a metal roof needs a fire barrier over the 30# since metal is more combustable and does not meet the necessary UL ratings for Miami-Dade code.
@@perkinsroofingcorp . Thanks for the reply. I am a consumer trying to chose between two options offered by two different contractors. So I am reading various material. This FBC document - www.floridabuilding.org/fbc/thecode/2020_7edition/Roofing_Fact_Sheet-2_column_format052820Final.pdf gives 3 options, with Option 1 being a single-ply self-adhered membrane applied directly to the decking. Option 2 adds a tape applied over all joints in the roof decking and then covered with peel-n-stick. And Option 3 is what you're referring to - two-ply where the base 30# felt is mechanically attached to plywood and then covered with peel-n-stick. It also says that the tile roofs (the one I have) must be in accordance with the FRSA/TRI Florida High Wind Concrete and Clay Roof Tile Installation. This doc is here - tileroofing.org/wp-content/uploads/Florida-High-Wind-Tile-Installation-Manual-6th-Edition-092020.pdf. It gives essentially the same options (tape is not one of them). I am trying to decide which one is better. Am I missing something? Should I refer to a different document that only allows a two-ply system? I live in Palm Beach county.
@@vitalyshtulman6351 Palm Beach does not fall under HVHZ (even though it should). We do work up there if you would like a quote. I'm actually working on opening a Jupiter location by the end of the year. I would recommend Option 3, because that's what we do in Dade and Broward under HVHZ, then #2 - it's obviously cheaper as it uses less material for option 1 and 2, but option 3 is what is required by HVHZ and Palm Beach will eventually fall under HVHZ, it's been in the works. I'm not sure if insurance would give you any additional credits, but you would if you add a secondary water barrier or hurricane strapping. Let me know if we can help!
You do not mention roof vents in this video. You do mention soffit screens, which is one part of the roof ventilation system, but I see no vents on the roof itself, not even ridge vents. How is the roof supposed to ventilate with no elevated vents where the hot air can rise inside the attic and out the vents? I have learned from your videos, but I don't see a single video addressing the issue of roof ventilation. I am learning more than I ever wanted to know about my house during the process of recovering from major storm surge flooding in my house during Hurricane Ian. My attic is hot as the place you go if you don't go to heaven. It has been super hot ever since I purchased the home 20 years ago. I replaced the tile roof 16 years ago and now I'm realizing the roofer did not install any roof vents or ridge vents. The hot air is trapped in my attic! I will be having a new tile roof installed within the next 30-45 days and I want to knowledgable about roof vents to make sure my roofer does the venting correctly. Here in Disaster World NOBODY seems to know how to do their jobs in the various skilled trades. Consumers assume roofers, plumbers, electricians, window installers, stucco installers, drywallers, etc. know how to do their jobs, BUT THEY DO NOT! Everything has to be done at least two times and sometimes up to four times before they get it somewhat right. This is extremely frustrating. You seem to know how to perform your skilled trade of roofing, so I'd like to know what you know about roof ventilation, including exactly what types of vents you recommend I should install for my new tile roof. I do have soffit vents spaces about every 12 feet around my house. But again, those soffit vents do no good unless there are vents somewhere on the higher elevations of the roof to allow the rising hot air to escape from the attic. Thank you!
Yeah, the issues over there are all of the roofers are from out of state. Even the in-state roofers are subcontracting guys from out of state or out of country. I know, I've done work over there and the work I see going on is terrible. People are recovering homes with bad or damaged underlayments.
Anyways, in regards to the ventilation - you have two choices if the soffit vents do not work well enough. The first are whirly birds (turbines), but you need to have wind. Second are solar gooseneck vents, which are good, but not cheap. They run about $400 for a 10 watt (1,200 SF per vent) and $700 for a 25 watt (2,600 SF per vent). They both have little motors for active ventilation, but the solar ones work better generally and will last longer. The turbines can be made in aluminum, which I would recommend if you are 2,000' from salt water. The turbines usually cost about $250.
Wtfrick how mutch pressure plates do you need , here in Holland is 5 per 1m2 by code.
And the flat roofers can learn a thing or two do😁
The QTY of tin caps varies, based upon wind zone, building height, etc. This is all laid out in each permit.
@@perkinsroofingcorp on the other side of the oceans rules are way different, like to walk a few days on the Floridian roofs do