if you print 2 halves horizontally and glue the 2 halves or not to avoid the supports PS: next time hang the weights on the hook and not on you (Pt-BR)e se vc imprimir 2 metades na horizontal e colar as 2 metades ou não para evitar os suportes PS: a próxima vez pendura os pesos no gancho e não em vc kkkk
@@LukaArtelj It works for the purposes of the test, since comparison is the main objective. All he did was measure the force he applied to the wrench instead of the torque applied to the bolt. However, if he knows the length of the wrench, he can account for it fairly well, and it looks like he made it past basic algebra.
I really like that you perform these experiments and document them so thoroughly. I think you can make the stretch tests safer using a lever; it looked like you risked falling on your knees with considerable force.
I am good with falling (from few cm), watching video, yes, it may look risky. But I am working on Arduino based tensile testing machine, where I can measure yield point too, not only break points (and it will work by pressing a button). Only parts from China are arriving so slowly..
That M6 test just made me smile. It’s amazing how much in this world can be calculated with math. This whole video was insanely entertaining and I love how all the data was presented!
Really it's a good endorsement of the data he was using. Partially proves that it's not just marketing wank being repeated to you, seems his source may actually be doing some independent testing.
I always create a flat size along the threads of every 3d-printable thread I design...and print it horizontally. It requires no support, prints easily, and the small section of no threads doesn't effect it's ability to thread in and out easily.
@@MyTechFun I think the point being made is that it doesnt have to be half the widht of the screw not being printed. Since it is possible to print with overhang you might get away with only 1/3 or 1/4 not being printed (or even less).
Very good video btw, man take care of yourself. These tests are a lot fun tho... 😂 But more than all of this, it's clarifying! Thanks a lot for the tip.
strength in horizontal printing is quite logical - the strength of the thread is summed up in total. in fact, a cable is obtained. vertical and angular printing is caused only by the adhesion of the layers.
I just got this video in my recommendations, and before I start watching I wanted to mention, if you include 0:00 as the first timestamp in your video description, youtube will show a split time bar with the different timestamps as sections. All this requires is that you have a list of timestamps, with 0:00 as the first one!
In vertical position all the three stresses accumulate in between the layers which are weak points. Meanwhile, in horizontal position stresses are applied to the layers all together. This video really helped to realize this. If you asked me before, I would definitely go with the vertical one.
Very informative and quite entertaining -- you literally put your body on the line for testing! Incidentally, just this morning I tested horizontal vs vertical printing for a small 6mm pla rod I am going to use for a propeller, and the horizontally printed one was much more difficult to break with my hands than the vertically printed one.
This is very interesting stuff. I used to fly model airplanes, and for mounting the wings to the fuselage there are special nylon bolts in the market. The idea behind these is that in the event of a crash where the wing strikes an obstacle, the bolts would shear off and the wing would be undamaged. In practice however, the bolts would often prove to be too strong, and either the wing would be damaged anyway, or the mounts would tear out of the fuselage together with the bolts. It would be a fun challenge to produce my own bolts that are strong enough to survive any aerobatic maneuvers of the plane, but would be fragile enough to break in the case of a crash.
Shouldn't be too difficult, just adapt the market available nylon bolts by making a radial groove in it. Best to do with a (mini)lathe if you have one. You can easily make a bolt that will break when you want to. It's somewhat like steel testsamples are being made when steel properties are being tested.
I really didn’t think 3d printed bolts would stand up to that much force I can’t wait to get my printer so I can get up and running this is super useful for so many applications and without seeing this I would’ve never thought to try this out!! Very cool!!
Another interesting test would be to print a solid, smooth bolt (no thread) and then use the die to add a thread. I think that might be stronger than printing the thread.
Threading 3D printed blots just results in the rod snapping from heat. It’s impractical to thread a long rod because of how long it takes, and still it weakens it
Watching those tests was surprisingly suspenseful! I've had enough bad experiences with vertical printed fasteners to know they wouldn't do great, but I was surprised by just how much better the horizontal printed ones did. Thanks for posting!
I should do this test in ABS. Its notoriously bad at layer adhesion, but I've figured out some tricks in the settings to get it to fuse REALLY nicely and solidly and im tempted to try it. For those interested, you can get improved layer adhesion by increasing environment temperature. building an enclosure, then adding in a heater on a relay connected to your board. I run ABS prints at an environment temperature of 60c, and I actually use the cooling fans at low speed, increasing for bridging and short layer times. it ALSO requires a minimum layer time, 15-20 seconds works well for mine. to figure these out i printed a small clip over and over with different settings, a 20 minute print, until I got a tiny, thin part I couldn't snap by hand.
Haven't printed yet with ABS, but I heard that a problem people have is issues with warping/uneven cooling. So I'd guess for most people who print ABS without a high temp enclosure the resulting print is barely holding itself together so to say.
Materials printed are anisotropic. This means that they have a preferencial direction and so it's normal to observe that your bolt broke sooner in the vertical position. It's because of the contact surface between the different layers of PLA. The contact surface of vertical printed version is far inferior of those of horizontal version. In order to maximize the strenght of your component, you have to print your pieces with the layers in the direction of the maximum stress. Thanks a lot for this great demonstration!!
Bro i dont know, why im watching this at 2:30 AM, im fall sleep,but nice video, i love this things, nice experiment, you won a new suscríber, a huge hug from México 🇲🇽❤️
This was very helpful! Last night I experimented with some brackets printed on my CR-30. Definitely need to rotate parts by 45° since that’s the equivalent to printing horizontally on a normal printer. The ones printed right in the bed broke as I removed them from the bed. But the ones printed at 45° were really strong! Which for batch prints I closely stack them in Cura so that it uses the previous print as a support. This reduces waste with supports on multiple prints.
I’m impressed with Igor’s English skills, I know Hungarian is extremely different than English so I just wanted to take the time and tell you your English is good and understandable. Thank you for taking time to speak in English to make your information more accessible by using the most widely spoken language on earth atm, I genuinely appreciate the effort.
Hungarian is definitely a very difficult language. It is very different from English. I'm Ukrainian so I can easily understand Ukrainian, Russian, Polish, Belarusian, Czech, Slovak, Serbian, Slovenian (although these are all related languages of course) and English, but Hungarian... I can't understand it.
A note on supports for the horizontal print: You don't need so much support. A 1mm wide support is enough for an M10 thread just so that it has something to rest on. It's usually best to add this support directly in the modeling tool instead of activating supports in the slicer.
Thanks for the engineering approach, one thing your results may differ than the website data is because you did the experiment by printing bolts. The threads on the exterior surface are the stress risers so they reduced the max. stress. The correct method would be printing straight bars and testing it on a setup similar to extensometer. Very much thanks for the video by the way, it gives clear understanding of the effect of printing direction on the strength.
Thanks. I printed a replacement bolt for my toilet seat. Those bolt need to be made of plastic because a metal bolt could break the ceramic bol. Obviously, I followed your advice and printed it horizontally with supports. It was not pretty on the underside, but it's surprisingly strong for PLA. Lets see how long it will last.
for the diagonal one, it might be that at a certain position, under shear stress, it acts like the horizontal one, as the fibres can be diagonal to the shear stress, similar to the bolt with the horizontal fibers.
Honestly the horizontal prints surprised me. “Stuffed Made Here” (UA-camr) did an interview where he was talking about how even with his Nylon SLS printer and his formlabs SLA printer and all their special resins, he was still frustrated that he didn’t have a printer with the capability to print isotropic ABS because it’s materials properties were so good. It’s really incredible to me the material properties of rather mundane thermoplastic polymers can have. It’s incredible for what they are.
Dude! Awesome job, didn't know those could be that powerful. I'm gonna consider that part of the printing world unlocked (nuts and bolts, and heavy duty parts) for my future projects. Even new possible projects.
Never seen anyone put themselves through this much physical stress just to test 3D Printed parts. You can say you put your ALL into this project. Well done Igor!! I have to say the chain fall you use now is much better for test results but far from as entertaining.
A word of warning, McMaster Carr's TOS prohibits you from 3D printing their models. It's probably fine for personal use, but be sure not to sell anything with those pieces in it.
I fully understand that it depends on the material used, but as a machinist it is my understanding that any bolt is only as strong depth wise as its diameter. In other words, tapping a hole 1/2"-13 (yes, I am in the USA) 1" deep makes the shear or tensile strength no stronger than tapping that same hole 1/2" deep. Interesting video!
I think it's even less if everything is the same material, and use the standard 7/16" high 1/2-13 nut as my evidence. Theoretically that's only ~5.6 full threads, and once you start adding chamfers it's even less. A "rule of thumb" I've heard is 3 full threads is all that's needed for full tensile, and a 1/2-13 jam nut is right around there, accounting for chamfers.
Thank you for this work! I was running into issues with vertically printed M6 screws and nuts that where stripping and splitting at the layers. This research confirms my thought that a horizontal printed screw will be far more helpful. Excellent video!
I know the video is already two months old, but I wanted to add an observation here. I researched a lot of mechanical properties of 3D printed materials during college and even published a paper about it, so the reason the horizontal screw can handle much more wight is because the raster lines of the layers are aligned with the force applied to the screw. I would like to see you testing again but with the screw been held in the horizontal not the vertical, as the main force been applied in the screw would be shear force not simple tensile pull. I bet the vertical screw would fare much better in this scenario. Sorry if I misspelled something, English is not my primary language. Great work and great video!
Thanks for this - the information is useful and timely for me. I'm working on a horizontal mount for a joystick that has both a screw thread and a nut. This confirms that the planned horizontal print should be stronger than my other options.
Really impressive! I never thaught they would hold this much. And fun way to test it :) Although (depending on how strong you are), you may get more force doing it the opposit way - attach the bolt to a barbell on the ground and lift it. And once the bolt gives out, you don't fall to the ground with a lot of weights on top, haha. This also really show the weakest point with 3D printing - layer adhesion.
random recommendion that appeared on my home page and kept my attention through the whole video, just subscribed, incredible work and I wish my uncle knew english just to share this amazing analysis with him
Awesome video! The results may vary if the bolt print orientations (vertical, horizontal, 45) are all printed separately. Printing all of these different orientations together will affect the infill/print path of the bolt. This would then effect the lattice/crystalline structure of the bolt. But you sir deserve a tensile test machine instead of risking your own weight for a plastic bolt haha. Thank you for the great content!
This presentation style, despite the accent, is keeping my focus much better than the channels that send mass produced content. A++, hoping to learn what I day-dreamt through several videos on the topic prior.
Awesome video. The explanation is clear. And the demo was enjoyable to watch too. The M6 demo also very clearly showed the significant difference. Thanks! Also, I learned that most of the stress that happens to bolts are perpendicular to the long bit. That makes a lot of sense actually.
What if, you print the threads to nominal (or +0.1mm) size and then heat the threading die to 80C (into PLA glass transition). Will it smooth out the surface when "cleaning the threads" or is it possible that the heat will somewhat compress the threadform with the die into correct shape.
An alternative to using supports for the horizontally printed bolts would be to print bolts in two half-pieces, and either gluing them, or just using the compression from the nut to keep the two halves together. It may be worth testing this concept out to see if there is improved strength and this idea provides a reasonable compromise to obtain some of the benefit of the horizontal print without the additional support requirement.
Muchas gracias por el video, sinceramente no había pensado en que, la posición de impresión podía afectar la resistencia de la pieza. Saludos de Bolivia.
🟅 Instead of adding support what I do is cutting the thread off from the screws underside (and top for other reasons) such that I can print them sideways. I cut off the he profile depth and a tiny bit more. A tiny bit more to avoid overhangs >> 45°. This still gives more strength (and much more importantly more reliable strength across materials) than vertically printed screws. An added benefit of cutting of a side (or both sides) of the thread is that the screws can now be rotationally locked to what they go through by adding matching flats to the printed holes. E.g. one can rotationally lock a stack of spur gears together. I also cut off the top of the horizontally oriented thread because that part has the same issue with vertically printed screws. That is the top of the horizontally printed thread contributes less to the total strength. Also it forces the printer to do lots of island-jumping and retractions which adds print time, load on the printer and possibly stringing and post processing effort and time. A possible failure mode could be that under load the nuts become oval and slip over the thread. In that case the top cuold be left on. 🟅 Also what I do is instead of going for metric or imperial standard screws (standards which where never meant for FDM 3D printing) I go for FDM printing optimized thread profiles. I use asignificantly larger pitch (3mm pitch for 12mm screw -- there is still friction self-holding) and I use softer thread profiles (like e.g. sinusoidal or cubic instead of classic triangular) which can be printed faster and cleaner. 🟅 Given the clearance was chosen properly with these design choices there is NO POSTPROCESSING NEEDED whatsoever.
As a note: For the shear test of the horizontally printed screw there are two possible layer orientations in the test rig that may behave quite differently.
The bolt printed vertically is an example of this saying by the legendary CGP Gray: "Solutions which are: - The first thing you think of, and; - Look sensible, and; - Are easy to implement; Are often: - Terrible; - Ineffective solutions"
Luv the vid. it helped me learn that the heat of your nozzle helps a lot with layer adhesion. Also proving my theory that I had by myself. That printing The item oriented perpendicular of the force being applied helps as well.
The Horizontal position makes sense if you think about the way the layers are printed. the weak points wouldn't be where the layers are placed like in the other positions. You're pulling along the layer lines instead of between them.
wow... thats how easy it is to make a thread in fusion.... I remember spending about 30 minutes in inventor trying to make threads to work, including crashes. Thanks!
Also for the stress test, i think using weight and gradually adding them on would be a bit better. E.g. start with decent amount, wait 5-10 mins to see changes, add an additional set amount, wait, repeat till it breaks.
@@MyTechFun Thank you for the reply. Also, it would be interesting to study the material strength vs bed and extruder temperatures. Perhaps you'll find an optimum there. Best of luck to you!
@@MyTechFun In terms of strength? Have you tried Siraya Tech blu or esun hard tough? I've heard there are some ways to mix the resin so you can get superior strength out of (and no layer adhesion issues!)
You should be happy about the results. You've found a way to make much stronger bolts than you could before. You can still make them the way you used to if they are adequate for the job, but now you have the option to make stronger ones as well.
Just wanted to confirm that I was right about positioning, I experienced issues with parts being printed vertically, they would brake very easy because of the way i lt was printed, only horizontally i get the best results when it comes to sturdiness of the parts... Of course not every part, some of them better vertically, anyway Thanks for the great video!!! You did excellent work man!
Im not gonna watch a 19 minute video, but Im assuming the horizontal bolt would be stronger because if it was printed vertical the layers of material it was made from would seperate easier.
I just watched this video, and subscribed instantly 🙂. I'm absolutely beginner with 3D printing. I bought my printer 1 month ago. But, I have technical knowledge and experience. I faced with this vertical printed bolts problem already in the first days. I printed threads horizontal with support, but they were unusable. I mean unusable without post-production. This video confirms my decision. Every time when I will print bolts (and their strength is important) I will print them horizontally with supports, and I will rework the threads with a thread cutter tool.
Wow... Thanks for your efforts demonstrating this. I have troubles printing vertical bolts but now I have a clear idea on what to do the next time. New subscriber here!
For the first 2 tests I would have suggested using a hand cable winch for 1. Higher range for weight simulation and 2. Safety. My old metal shop used them for testing smaller metal bolts.
Thanks for this! This is an instance where I could see the value of using filament meant for printing support material, in addition to the filament that you are using for your bolt.
Based on these results: testing different horizontally printed bolts WITHOUT supports: ua-cam.com/video/E3WRBp-T42o/v-deo.html
if you print 2 halves horizontally and glue the 2 halves or not to avoid the supports PS: next time hang the weights on the hook and not on you (Pt-BR)e se vc imprimir 2 metades na horizontal e colar as 2 metades ou não para evitar os suportes PS: a próxima vez pendura os pesos no gancho e não em vc kkkk
You nooob! You dont know how to calculate torq
Intro music?
@@LukaArtelj It works for the purposes of the test, since comparison is the main objective. All he did was measure the force he applied to the wrench instead of the torque applied to the bolt. However, if he knows the length of the wrench, he can account for it fairly well, and it looks like he made it past basic algebra.
Man you seriously investing such heavy physical Efforts just for demonstrating your viewers..
Hats-Off to you
Hihallo euhhh non. Il y en a ils sont vraiment pas mieux que les Français. Des vrais guignols.
You reminded me of the great song:
Hats Off to (Roy) Harper
Why didn't he just use the Rachet strap he was holding himself up with?
Boss status achieved, with his last 3 words of his first, "Hello, welcome to my workshop. I am Igor...". I am Igor! Ruler of all Things!
@@gentle3412 Not particularly. It's what came to mind, when he was introducing himself.
What about von misses stress would that be supporting in some way
It`s common name in Russia (Игорь), Author definitely from Ukraine/Russia/Belarus since his accent very specific, i uses same =)
It's a bit like wood, which is several times stronger with the grain than across it
Yes true
FYI the more scientific term for this is "isotropy". An isotropic material (such as metal) has the same strength in all directions. :)
@@rantanplan1911 but this is not isotropic right
@@prithvirajb1953 Exactly. Wood and 3D printed plastic would be "anisotropic" (literally "not isotropic")
@@rantanplan1911 Thanks for your comment, great info 👍
Best news from this video is that 45° wasn't the winner.
Why is that the best news?
@@TheGamersRace Because it's the most inconvenient to "clean" and prepare for printing. It's just the option with the most hassle.
@@hebl47 Is it though? Some materials are easier to print in that orientation...
Easier than laying flat with supports imo
No debate needed:
If you need bolts to endure forced print it horizontal.
If you need bolts merely to keep pieces together print vertical.
Any person with a little experience in FDM printing should know that. Why did i still watch the video ? I have no idea.
@@thomast7748 Too see the exact results lol. While i was expecting horizontal to be stronger i was slightly surprised with how much stronger it is.
if you dont know how the bolts are going to be used print it in 45°
@@PotyGames
45º are worthless:
Not as strong as horizontal.
Too much filament waste.
Much more material to clean.
....or use metal bolts....
Having no experience with 3d printing I was surprised how strong even the vertical print is
I really like that you perform these experiments and document them so thoroughly. I think you can make the stretch tests safer using a lever; it looked like you risked falling on your knees with considerable force.
I am good with falling (from few cm), watching video, yes, it may look risky. But I am working on Arduino based tensile testing machine, where I can measure yield point too, not only break points (and it will work by pressing a button). Only parts from China are arriving so slowly..
I was more concerned about his testicles getting the weight dropped on them as he hit the ground
Sound exaggerated but please use a helmet, if you trip that will hurt
Why didn't you just use the Rachet strap you were holding your self up with to do the whole experiment?
@@MyTechFun Your safety is important
That M6 test just made me smile. It’s amazing how much in this world can be calculated with math. This whole video was insanely entertaining and I love how all the data was presented!
Really it's a good endorsement of the data he was using. Partially proves that it's not just marketing wank being repeated to you, seems his source may actually be doing some independent testing.
If you need to test with heavier items, I am available. Ha ha.
I always create a flat size along the threads of every 3d-printable thread I design...and print it horizontally.
It requires no support, prints easily, and the small section of no threads doesn't effect it's ability to thread in and out easily.
Thanks. I already got this suggestion, definitely I will try it in near future (also print in two halfs, PETG etc..)
@@MyTechFun I think the point being made is that it doesnt have to be half the widht of the screw not being printed. Since it is possible to print with overhang you might get away with only 1/3 or 1/4 not being printed (or even less).
That's what I was thinking, was hoping to see this version in the test as well
Very good video btw, man take care of yourself. These tests are a lot fun tho... 😂 But more than all of this, it's clarifying! Thanks a lot for the tip.
So you are shaving a side from top to bottom including the head?
I'm so impressed that horizontal did so well
Me too. I want to compare them with injection molded bolts too
strength in horizontal printing is quite logical - the strength of the thread is summed up in total. in fact, a cable is obtained. vertical and angular printing is caused only by the adhesion of the layers.
@@garrypotter5323 That's a great point!
I just got this video in my recommendations, and before I start watching I wanted to mention, if you include 0:00 as the first timestamp in your video description, youtube will show a split time bar with the different timestamps as sections. All this requires is that you have a list of timestamps, with 0:00 as the first one!
I didn't know about that, this was very useful information. Thanks
conclusion: I'm overweight 🤣🤣
love how the tests went
👍
Average American: y u so skinny
The site he used is crap though. It says that the average weight for a male 1.83m person is 45 kg. That's ridiculous
@@LostPhysx That's only if you don't enter an age or said age is too low. Now, I'm not saying that makes it any better, but that at least explains it
In vertical position all the three stresses accumulate in between the layers which are weak points. Meanwhile, in horizontal position stresses are applied to the layers all together. This video really helped to realize this. If you asked me before, I would definitely go with the vertical one.
Very informative and quite entertaining -- you literally put your body on the line for testing! Incidentally, just this morning I tested horizontal vs vertical printing for a small 6mm pla rod I am going to use for a propeller, and the horizontally printed one was much more difficult to break with my hands than the vertically printed one.
It's thanks to people like you that save others a lot of time and effort to achieve the best results! Thank you
I'm surprised at how strong even the vertical one was. FDM is amazing!
This is very interesting stuff. I used to fly model airplanes, and for mounting the wings to the fuselage there are special nylon bolts in the market. The idea behind these is that in the event of a crash where the wing strikes an obstacle, the bolts would shear off and the wing would be undamaged.
In practice however, the bolts would often prove to be too strong, and either the wing would be damaged anyway, or the mounts would tear out of the fuselage together with the bolts.
It would be a fun challenge to produce my own bolts that are strong enough to survive any aerobatic maneuvers of the plane, but would be fragile enough to break in the case of a crash.
Shouldn't be too difficult, just adapt the market available nylon bolts by making a radial groove in it.
Best to do with a (mini)lathe if you have one.
You can easily make a bolt that will break when you want to.
It's somewhat like steel testsamples are being made when steel properties are being tested.
I really didn’t think 3d printed bolts would stand up to that much force I can’t wait to get my printer so I can get up and running this is super useful for so many applications and without seeing this I would’ve never thought to try this out!! Very cool!!
Be sure to watch out for creep though i don’t think the kinds of forces that they were withstanding would be safe for very long!
Another interesting test would be to print a solid, smooth bolt (no thread) and then use the die to add a thread. I think that might be stronger than printing the thread.
Threading 3D printed blots just results in the rod snapping from heat. It’s impractical to thread a long rod because of how long it takes, and still it weakens it
Watching those tests was surprisingly suspenseful! I've had enough bad experiences with vertical printed fasteners to know they wouldn't do great, but I was surprised by just how much better the horizontal printed ones did. Thanks for posting!
I have no words. This video is so comprehensive I love it! Just started getting into 3D printing. Keep up the good work!
engineer here, great vid, saves me having to do what you just did. Thanks
I should do this test in ABS. Its notoriously bad at layer adhesion, but I've figured out some tricks in the settings to get it to fuse REALLY nicely and solidly and im tempted to try it.
For those interested, you can get improved layer adhesion by increasing environment temperature. building an enclosure, then adding in a heater on a relay connected to your board. I run ABS prints at an environment temperature of 60c, and I actually use the cooling fans at low speed, increasing for bridging and short layer times. it ALSO requires a minimum layer time, 15-20 seconds works well for mine. to figure these out i printed a small clip over and over with different settings, a 20 minute print, until I got a tiny, thin part I couldn't snap by hand.
Haven't printed yet with ABS, but I heard that a problem people have is issues with warping/uneven cooling.
So I'd guess for most people who print ABS without a high temp enclosure the resulting print is barely holding itself together so to say.
Than you for testing all of this and sharing info
Materials printed are anisotropic. This means that they have a preferencial direction and so it's normal to observe that your bolt broke sooner in the vertical position. It's because of the contact surface between the different layers of PLA. The contact surface of vertical printed version is far inferior of those of horizontal version. In order to maximize the strenght of your component, you have to print your pieces with the layers in the direction of the maximum stress. Thanks a lot for this great demonstration!!
Bro i dont know, why im watching this at 2:30 AM, im fall sleep,but nice video, i love this things, nice experiment, you won a new suscríber, a huge hug from México 🇲🇽❤️
Mexico? That's far from here, good feeling that my work traveles worldwide :-) Regards from Hungary.
This was very helpful! Last night I experimented with some brackets printed on my CR-30. Definitely need to rotate parts by 45° since that’s the equivalent to printing horizontally on a normal printer. The ones printed right in the bed broke as I removed them from the bed. But the ones printed at 45° were really strong! Which for batch prints I closely stack them in Cura so that it uses the previous print as a support. This reduces waste with supports on multiple prints.
I’m impressed with Igor’s English skills, I know Hungarian is extremely different than English so I just wanted to take the time and tell you your English is good and understandable. Thank you for taking time to speak in English to make your information more accessible by using the most widely spoken language on earth atm, I genuinely appreciate the effort.
Hungarian is definitely a very difficult language. It is very different from English. I'm Ukrainian so I can easily understand Ukrainian, Russian, Polish, Belarusian, Czech, Slovak, Serbian, Slovenian (although these are all related languages of course) and English, but Hungarian... I can't understand it.
Hungarian is so much different than English. But it is so similar to Turkish
A note on supports for the horizontal print: You don't need so much support. A 1mm wide support is enough for an M10 thread just so that it has something to rest on. It's usually best to add this support directly in the modeling tool instead of activating supports in the slicer.
Thanks for the engineering approach, one thing your results may differ than the website data is because you did the experiment by printing bolts. The threads on the exterior surface are the stress risers so they reduced the max. stress. The correct method would be printing straight bars and testing it on a setup similar to extensometer. Very much thanks for the video by the way, it gives clear understanding of the effect of printing direction on the strength.
Thanks. I printed a replacement bolt for my toilet seat. Those bolt need to be made of plastic because a metal bolt could break the ceramic bol.
Obviously, I followed your advice and printed it horizontally with supports. It was not pretty on the underside, but it's surprisingly strong for PLA. Lets see how long it will last.
If you have the rubber fitting you can use metal
@@mangobot232 Good point Mango. I must say, it was also a pretext to use my 3D printer
for the diagonal one, it might be that at a certain position, under shear stress, it acts like the horizontal one, as the fibres can be diagonal to the shear stress, similar to the bolt with the horizontal fibers.
Honestly the horizontal prints surprised me. “Stuffed Made Here” (UA-camr) did an interview where he was talking about how even with his Nylon SLS printer and his formlabs SLA printer and all their special resins, he was still frustrated that he didn’t have a printer with the capability to print isotropic ABS because it’s materials properties were so good. It’s really incredible to me the material properties of rather mundane thermoplastic polymers can have. It’s incredible for what they are.
Dude! Awesome job, didn't know those could be that powerful.
I'm gonna consider that part of the printing world unlocked (nuts and bolts, and heavy duty parts) for my future projects. Even new possible projects.
Never seen anyone put themselves through this much physical stress just to test 3D Printed parts. You can say you put your ALL into this project. Well done Igor!! I have to say the chain fall you use now is much better for test results but far from as entertaining.
A word of warning, McMaster Carr's TOS prohibits you from 3D printing their models. It's probably fine for personal use, but be sure not to sell anything with those pieces in it.
That's incredibly stupid. Aren't all the measurements standard?
@@russellchido No doubt part of it is a cover for liability.
For proto fit I'm sure they are Ok because you'll buy the proper part from them at some point.
@_ David _ Other people can host the models for download via torrent... i'd love to see them complain about that "file storage".
Props for going back and retesting the pulling test feel like most would not have gone through the effort. Keep up the good work my friend
I fully understand that it depends on the material used, but as a machinist it is my understanding that any bolt is only as strong depth wise as its diameter. In other words, tapping a hole 1/2"-13 (yes, I am in the USA) 1" deep makes the shear or tensile strength no stronger than tapping that same hole 1/2" deep. Interesting video!
I think it's even less if everything is the same material, and use the standard 7/16" high 1/2-13 nut as my evidence. Theoretically that's only ~5.6 full threads, and once you start adding chamfers it's even less.
A "rule of thumb" I've heard is 3 full threads is all that's needed for full tensile, and a 1/2-13 jam nut is right around there, accounting for chamfers.
Thank you for this work! I was running into issues with vertically printed M6 screws and nuts that where stripping and splitting at the layers. This research confirms my thought that a horizontal printed screw will be far more helpful. Excellent video!
You may find this informational too ua-cam.com/video/E3WRBp-T42o/v-deo.html
I love the way you test everything, and you explain everything so well!
Great video demonstrating the relative strengths based on printing methods!
This is the kind of stuff i want to see, exactly what i lay thinking about in bed.
I know the video is already two months old, but I wanted to add an observation here.
I researched a lot of mechanical properties of 3D printed materials during college and even published a paper about it, so the reason the horizontal screw can handle much more wight is because the raster lines of the layers are aligned with the force applied to the screw. I would like to see you testing again but with the screw been held in the horizontal not the vertical, as the main force been applied in the screw would be shear force not simple tensile pull. I bet the vertical screw would fare much better in this scenario.
Sorry if I misspelled something, English is not my primary language.
Great work and great video!
4th variation: horizontal printing but in two halves (thus, no supports)
Interesting idea. Thx
Also shaving the tips of thread in the two halves will give ability to have easier bolt nut fitting
5th: horizontal printing without thread and then use thread die to make whole thread.
@@ondrejtyc7578 6th: erase 5th because reasons. Buy a freaking rod then
@@ondrejtyc7578 Yeah, I don't think it's fair to compare 3d printed parts to machined parts. XD
Thanks for this - the information is useful and timely for me.
I'm working on a horizontal mount for a joystick that has both a screw thread and a nut. This confirms that the planned horizontal print should be stronger than my other options.
Really impressive! I never thaught they would hold this much. And fun way to test it :)
Although (depending on how strong you are), you may get more force doing it the opposit way - attach the bolt to a barbell on the ground and lift it. And once the bolt gives out, you don't fall to the ground with a lot of weights on top, haha. This also really show the weakest point with 3D printing - layer adhesion.
random recommendion that appeared on my home page and kept my attention through the whole video, just subscribed, incredible work and I wish my uncle knew english just to share this amazing analysis with him
I am really impressed by this effort, from a relatively small channel, my hat is off to you sir!
Awesome video! The results may vary if the bolt print orientations (vertical, horizontal, 45) are all printed separately. Printing all of these different orientations together will affect the infill/print path of the bolt. This would then effect the lattice/crystalline structure of the bolt. But you sir deserve a tensile test machine instead of risking your own weight for a plastic bolt haha. Thank you for the great content!
I learned more than print orientation. Calculate twice, measure once. Great video!
A like for detailed and tough test 💪 using self.
This presentation style, despite the accent, is keeping my focus much better than the channels that send mass produced content. A++, hoping to learn what I day-dreamt through several videos on the topic prior.
Great video. The first I’ve seen on how printing orientation effects and objects drinks. Very very interesting.
Awesome video. The explanation is clear. And the demo was enjoyable to watch too. The M6 demo also very clearly showed the significant difference. Thanks!
Also, I learned that most of the stress that happens to bolts are perpendicular to the long bit. That makes a lot of sense actually.
What if, you print the threads to nominal (or +0.1mm) size and then heat the threading die to 80C (into PLA glass transition).
Will it smooth out the surface when "cleaning the threads" or is it possible that the heat will somewhat compress the threadform with the die into correct shape.
An alternative to using supports for the horizontally printed bolts would be to print bolts in two half-pieces, and either gluing them, or just using the compression from the nut to keep the two halves together. It may be worth testing this concept out to see if there is improved strength and this idea provides a reasonable compromise to obtain some of the benefit of the horizontal print without the additional support requirement.
Yes, I got this suggestion few times, definitely I will test it in near future. Thanks
Muchas gracias por el video, sinceramente no había pensado en que, la posición de impresión podía afectar la resistencia de la pieza.
Saludos de Bolivia.
🟅 Instead of adding support what I do is cutting the thread off from the screws underside (and top for other reasons) such that I can print them sideways.
I cut off the he profile depth and a tiny bit more. A tiny bit more to avoid overhangs >> 45°.
This still gives more strength (and much more importantly more reliable strength across materials) than vertically printed screws.
An added benefit of cutting of a side (or both sides) of the thread is that the screws can now be rotationally locked to what they go through by adding matching flats to the printed holes.
E.g. one can rotationally lock a stack of spur gears together.
I also cut off the top of the horizontally oriented thread because that part has the same issue with vertically printed screws.
That is the top of the horizontally printed thread contributes less to the total strength. Also it forces the printer to do lots of island-jumping and retractions which adds print time, load on the printer and possibly stringing and post processing effort and time. A possible failure mode could be that under load the nuts become oval and slip over the thread. In that case the top cuold be left on.
🟅 Also what I do is instead of going for metric or imperial standard screws (standards which where never meant for FDM 3D printing) I go for FDM printing optimized thread profiles.
I use asignificantly larger pitch (3mm pitch for 12mm screw -- there is still friction self-holding) and
I use softer thread profiles (like e.g. sinusoidal or cubic instead of classic triangular) which can be printed faster and cleaner.
🟅 Given the clearance was chosen properly with these design choices there is NO POSTPROCESSING NEEDED whatsoever.
As a note: For the shear test of the horizontally printed screw there are two possible layer orientations in the test rig that may behave quite differently.
The bolt printed vertically is an example of this saying by the legendary CGP Gray:
"Solutions which are:
- The first thing you think of, and;
- Look sensible, and;
- Are easy to implement;
Are often:
- Terrible;
- Ineffective solutions"
Luv the vid. it helped me learn that the heat of your nozzle helps a lot with layer adhesion. Also proving my theory that I had by myself. That printing The item oriented perpendicular of the force being applied helps as well.
The Horizontal position makes sense if you think about the way the layers are printed. the weak points wouldn't be where the layers are placed like in the other positions. You're pulling along the layer lines instead of between them.
The Russian saying translates to measure twice and cut once.
But i like the way you used it in this video as an example.
Szimpatikus, hogy angolul csinálod a videóid így több embert elérve! Nagyon informatív videó volt, köszi a munkát!:)
Köszi
Thank you so much for doing this test! I'd been wondering about this.
wow... thats how easy it is to make a thread in fusion.... I remember spending about 30 minutes in inventor trying to make threads to work, including crashes. Thanks!
Also for the stress test, i think using weight and gradually adding them on would be a bit better.
E.g. start with decent amount, wait 5-10 mins to see changes, add an additional set amount, wait, repeat till it breaks.
I am suprised at the strength of the bolts in general. Did not expect that. Good video, clean method.
That was pleasant surprise to me too. M6 holding 110 kg.. impressive
Great video!
Bruh. that turn around introduction was the strongest part of this video.
Boa tarde! Esses testes que você fez são muito interessantes, pelo menos para mim! Parabéns!
Awesome results, thank you for the experiment! Do you plan to compare pla vs abs vs petg?
Yes, but first SLA vs FDM (resin vs PLA). Almost finished test..
@@MyTechFun Thank you for the reply. Also, it would be interesting to study the material strength vs bed and extruder temperatures. Perhaps you'll find an optimum there. Best of luck to you!
Ratcheting strap, like used to tie down stuff on a roof rack.
you are brave as hell for pulling like that in the name of science
It's all about the linear printed macromolecules. you can find the same effect in wood :)
I have no idea what you just said, but have my like.
excited to see a different filament test based on your results and tests! thank you
I tested different materials too, search between videos
Have you done this with resin
Yes, there is very minimal difference there
@@MyTechFun In terms of strength? Have you tried Siraya Tech blu or esun hard tough? I've heard there are some ways to mix the resin so you can get superior strength out of (and no layer adhesion issues!)
Yes, tested, here is the SLA related list www.mytechfun.com/videos/sla_3d_printing
@@MyTechFun sweet!
You should be happy about the results. You've found a way to make much stronger bolts than you could before. You can still make them the way you used to if they are adequate for the job, but now you have the option to make stronger ones as well.
who needs to use weights for testing when you're a russian mad lad who's willing to use himself as the main testing equipment
Thank you for this. Very informative.
A note on screws or bolts to be used for shear loads is to have an unthreaded shank.
Alt title "why vertically printed bolts suck"
True, but I am testing reinforced bolts printed vertically. Interesting results so far. I will publish my results here soon..
Just wanted to confirm that I was right about positioning, I experienced issues with parts being printed vertically, they would brake very easy because of the way i lt was printed, only horizontally i get the best results when it comes to sturdiness of the parts... Of course not every part, some of them better vertically, anyway Thanks for the great video!!! You did excellent work man!
Im not gonna watch a 19 minute video, but Im assuming the horizontal bolt would be stronger because if it was printed vertical the layers of material it was made from would seperate easier.
lesson learnt measure once calculate twice , great effort by you to demonstrate that horizontal printing is best .
The montages brought me back to the days of how it’s made.
I thought he was about to advertise something to me when he turned around at the start
I am advertising a horizontally printed bolts ;-)
I just watched this video, and subscribed instantly 🙂. I'm absolutely beginner with 3D printing. I bought my printer 1 month ago. But, I have technical knowledge and experience. I faced with this vertical printed bolts problem already in the first days. I printed threads horizontal with support, but they were unusable. I mean unusable without post-production. This video confirms my decision. Every time when I will print bolts (and their strength is important) I will print them horizontally with supports, and I will rework the threads with a thread cutter tool.
Here is an additional info on the topic ua-cam.com/video/E3WRBp-T42o/v-deo.html
The best bolt printed on a 3D printer is a bolt turned on a lathe
I watched the most useful video, one of the most successful tests in the field of 3D printing, thank you.
Great experiment! Please wear a helmet next time though.. :)
Interesting. I had not expected that outcome, good to know!
Use a pulley :)
I am building tensile test machine Arduino based. Until that I will use my weight ;-)
Wow... Thanks for your efforts demonstrating this. I have troubles printing vertical bolts but now I have a clear idea on what to do the next time. New subscriber here!
This looks extremely dangerous not to just your knees but to your face as well. You can easily knock all your teeth out...
3d print teeth
No
For the first 2 tests I would have suggested using a hand cable winch for 1. Higher range for weight simulation and 2. Safety. My old metal shop used them for testing smaller metal bolts.
solved, in my latest video you can see my new testing setup. up to 500 kg
The conclusion is to eat more salads
I do, definitely as addition to my main meal :-)
Thanks for this! This is an instance where I could see the value of using filament meant for printing support material, in addition to the filament that you are using for your bolt.
My shower thoughts