3D printed screw nuts - horizontal or vertical printing position is better?
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- Опубліковано 12 чер 2024
- In this video I am testing optimal position for screw nuts, to find out, which one is stronger - horizontal or vertical position. In my previous video I was testing optimal 3D printing position for bolts and there was significant difference, horizontal printing was stronger, but let's find out will it be the case with the nuts too. In this video I am testing torque with M10 nuts and pulling test with M6.
Contents:
0:00 in this video
0:15 introduction
1:32 Analyzing in Slicer
2:51 3D printing
4:01 Torque test
7:29 Pulling test
8:52 Results
9:45 Conclusions
Materials and methods:
Prusa MK3 3D printer, 0.4mm nozzle, 0.15mm layer height, 220-225°C temperature (too much for PLA, but I wanted strongest layer adhesion). Printed with 6 perimeters and 100% infill. Software I used: PrusaSlicer and Fusion360. 150 kg hanging scale.
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Great video, this is such an important test, thank you for sharing, great videos, keep them coming. Great result on the Horizontal nut.quite impressive results on the torque test and the pull test.
I really like your channel. Very happy I discovered it. Great work and wonderful to see you explore your curiosity.
I am loving all of these fact-finding videos, they are helping me make better decisions with how to print nuts and bolts when needed; I try to use metal, but if I don't have a size and only need a couple, this will be the way of things for my small projects at home!
Also useful conclusion (besides that horizontally printed plastic nuts are good enough for several applications if they will not be commonly unscrewed).
Is that if you are going to have horizontal threads in your 3D print with a good number of perimeters then you can avoid need for metallic nuts in the 3D print. (That is again, if the screws will not be commonly removed)
Thank you for testing this, very interesting!
I'm so glad I subscribed to this.
Surprising result! thanks!
Saw your prior video. WIth bolts. Thanks for following up with this one! Great stuff. Thank you
Good video. Thx for your continued testing/sharing.
Very nicely done, very helpful. Thanks a lot.
love this experiments!!
Thank you, it's really important work.
Great update video 👍
Great work you are doing, love it 👍😀
Thanks for sharing 👍😀
BRAVO!! great video. Thank you!
Great video, just that i searched. Quality man 🙂
Here I was, watching your videos, thinking I subscribed 3 weeks ago, and as it turns out, they're just being recommended but I wasn't subbed!
Hey man, keep up the great work!
In this particular video, I thought the vertical printed nut would have been stronger because the screw is parallel to the printing lines.
Greetings from México!
Good testing thank you
Very interesting subject and nicely put together. I hope your baby girl didn't mind lending you her swing for a few days.
Thanks. Youngest baby girl was happy, because on those days we were on city playground more often.
amazing job keep it up
Villáskulcsok elsősegély-dobozban :D :D érdekes videó volt! köszi :)
Látnád az imbuszkulcsok dobozát.. na majd egyszer, hátha szerepet kapnak a közeljövőben :-)
Thanks for the info!
ANSI and ISO threads were developed around optimizing fasteners for steel, not plastic. It would be interesting to see a design of experiments that included thread pitch, root diameter, thread type (square vs triangular), etc. to see what the optimal shape is for PLA, ABS, and others. Note that threads on plastic containers like milk jugs and others are not ISO or ANSI standard (many are DIN 6063, but many are to no standard at all)- they were developed because they work better for plastic.
Thanks for this. I need to print a thread vertically and this helped me tell if it would work and when I need to add support. For nut strength I wonder if 45 degree angle would be better than vertical.
Great and very informative. You need to print rounded windowsill for you circular window 0:39. For some reason it bothers me...
Thread rhymes with bread!
Excellent research though! ☺️☺️
I’m not sure who started it, Prusa does it now, I think, but a small ramping cutout at the top inside of the nut really helps with quality. It gets rid of the overhang entirely and the nut still works.
I use that technique with vertical holes. For threads, not yet, but I didn't needed bigger threads so far (up to M12 I can print without supports)
Re: BOLT ORIENTATION/SUPPORTS: Trick to avoid supports!...
- Cut off bottom portion! That is, when lying horizontal.
- Cut ~1/4 up the threads.
- Yes, bolt looks funny, but still works:)
- FYI, can even cut of top, too! This saves on material usage.
- BTW, I have not test any effect on strength. Only concern: less area to contacting mating with internal threads. Hm?...
- P.S. Bolt only needs to be "strong enough":) With a factor of safety, of course.
Yes, I already got several suggestions about this cut-off-bottom version. I will test that too in near future. Thx.
I have an idea: print thread in 3 parts on horizontal and seat in a hex ring with flange. System will be held together in compression. Makes maximum use of layer alignment with filament in tension.
First) Interesting content, keep making!
What do you think about topology optimisation?
Just wondering - Why don't you use the ratchet strap to do the pulling force test? Saves you from getting bumped on the head. Project Farm does some similar stuff.
I heard you can strengthen plastic by tempering it in an oven. Also would different types of filament be better than pla?
You need to test for sizes that makes sense for 3D-printing plastics, not metal. A 2mm pitch thread, is a minimum for a really solid interconnection, which leaves you with M14, or bigger. If used with care, there are no need for any metal bolts or nuts. I tend to scale the bolt in the X and Y plane, and print the "nuts" in any direction. Also, by incorporating the "bolt" thread correctly into parts, I can dictate the rotation of the interconnect, as in connect cubes. If you print a bolt and a nut at 16mm 2mm picth, and scale down the width of the bolt to fit without need to machine it to fit, those results would be far more interesting, and far stronger than these. Using PETG, I need to decrase the x and y with 3%. I just use a regular flat headed screw driver, and a slot in the end of the bolt, for fastening. Works really great. The main issue is that I cannot get longer bolts to work, as thermal expansion is affecting the prints of the bolts, skewing the the threads of the upper part of the bolt, as the print do not compensate for thermal expansion of the cooling of the bolt, as it prints. The printer applies the layers as if there is no such thing as thermal expansion, in the z axis. Just design for short bolts, like up to 12mm for each nut. I tried M22 and 3mm thread, and it is just as bad, if not worse, in this regard. Also for interconnecting parts, I use headless bolts, and threads on each side of the interconnect, as I can adjust the threading for parts to align perfectly.
Good approach. So far, with my equipment, I can measure only up to 150 kg, that was enough to break M6 only. But working on stronger measuring setup, but probably I couldn't break M22, maybe on torque test only. Thx for info.
Curious. I found that the same results of the tests with screws
The only way that you would have any possibility of a stronger printed nut and bolt would by using the annealing process (oven heating and slow cooling, to align the molecules within the printed nut and bolt)..
Unfortunately the annealing process seems to have a flaw, in that it warps the print..
good tests. so bolts print horizontal, so is nuts. get yourself a set of cheap Tap and Die tool to clean them up and they are good as metal bolts and nuts.... 14NM on a M6 nut thats STRONG !!!!!!!!!!
Hello again! Are you sure that is the correct test to calculate max Tightening torque of nut?? Because I think while you return the +, torque must be saved in nut.
I am not sure what do you mean, but this is comparison test. And I am searching for the maximal torque, when the nut will fail (of course, this is over recommended tightening torque, but this is what I can measure)
Hhhmm, I think I understood..keep up the good job!!
Nice video
Very hepfull
Greetings from Colombia
An idea comes to mind: would glue or threadlocker improve adhesion?
Glue probably yes, but then it will became a permanent joint
@@MyTechFun It might be worth a video nonetheless: "what's the best way to assemble two parts?"
Normal threadlocker is a bad idea for polymers, it's known to cause embrittlement and cracking.
Buenas tardes profesor
Cuánto se demora en hacer una tuerca la impresora 3d?
Depend of the size: from 15 minutes up to 4 hours. But you can load it into slicer and it will calculate the 3D printing time for you.
What about printing no thread, and using a thread cutter only?
I try not to cut perimeters, only for cleaning
@@MyTechFun It would be interesting to see the difference also with the amount of perimeters. For instance 3, 4, 5, 6 Perimeters on M6 to find the sweet spot ;) Great video btw!
instead of using support for the top bridge on >M10 vertically printed nuts, could you pause the print, thread in a bolt, and then finish printing using the bolt as the support?
Hm. Not sure, but these tests I made to test the threads, not nuts. If I need a standard nut, I'll use metallic. But it's good to know possibilities if I need a thread as part of object, and in most cases I can't place a bolt inside.
You'd probably want to use a plastic bolt, or at least preheat a metal one to avoid problems of the print being rapidly cooled where is touches the bolt.
I wonder if you could get the good thread by printing bolts vertically, but have a hole in the center of the bolt and insert some carbon fiber tube and bond it to the inside of the print
Based on nothing, I would assume that'd only help when it sheers. Thread damage and pulling power wouldn't be changed.
7:30 Deez Nuts!
HA ! Got em'!
I feel like something about 60º is optimal.
+ 1sub
Again, proof that you need to print objects with the orientation that gives the largest area per slice, if you want strength.
This completes both the nut and bolt.
Only place you could further this now would be the object between the nut and bolt. Though again, I think you would find having the attachment printed flat, with largest layer area and 100% infill would be strongest.
But then plastic is plastic.. if you really wanted durability, you would look for metal.
hev you tried a smaller Z step?
Smaller layer height? No (0.15mm was the smallest, printing is too slow below that)
i am printing details or very accurate thing with 0,1 or 0,07 layer height.... rounded things are then very smooth
get yourself an auto jack, its a hand-powered hydraulic pump
Thx for the tip, I am working on better testing solution (with crane scale)
I know you're not going to like me, but the bunji cord is a bit weak. For safety, I would put a big paracord that can hold your weight. I'm only saying that because I don't want you to hurt yourself. You are also showing young people how to do it right. It's got to be right and safe too. 👍😉
Working on safer solution, only I was very curious and I wanted the results ASAP.
Hi
Hey
It’s pronounced THREAD, not THREAD.