Who's ready to see this thing turbo? Also, stop leaving yourself vulnerable to data breaches. Go to my sponsor aura.com/gingium to get a 14-day free trial and see if any of your data has been exposed
Sussed you out Gingium! Buy a daily, mod the hell out of it, no longer a daily... Buy a new daily, mod the hell out of it, no longer a daily... Rinse and repeat... and it's bloody brilliant! 😂🤣
no big brakes aren't worth it, you increase unsprung weight. the only benefit is brake fade resistance. Light wheels and grippy light tires matter more.
@@iBeo01 If you can lock them up/trigger ABS then yeah it's pointless, but if you *can't* (AKA you're not limited by your tyres), it absolutely will improve stopping times.
@@iBeo01That is true but you can do like I did om my MK5 GTI, I went with two piece rotors of the same size as stock and I added four piston calipers from a Porsche Boxster 986, both of which saved rotating weight, now my braking ability is much better than it was stock.
Next mod? Rear sway bars will make a heck of a difference when you want to rotate around a corner. These cars are pretty nose heavy and any loosening of the tail helps!
And for anyone on a budget, I believe Acura TL rear sway bars fit. They’re a bit thicker than what comes on the Accord and are also cheaper than aftermarket ones from what I’ve seen.
@@dy1angi11ey6Yep I bought a TL Type S sway bar for $50 and it upped the stock 13mm bar to a 20mm. I also bought the front one when I replaced my steering rack
Mad props on showing the mistakes. I think we are creating a generation of people that think BBK swaps can be done in just a few minutes. People need to see the ugly part too.
I'm sure someone else has mentioned it, but you can always get repair bleeders. It's usually a brass tapered insert with NPT threads that has a smaller bleeder in it so it goes back to functioning like a normal bleeder. Bonus is that they don't usually rust solid again because of the brass.
@@DJKr15py Yeah I'd check it with the engine running so there is booster and push the pedal hard several times. As long as it seals it's probably good to go, but just for future reference and all at least. :D
Just because their small doesn't mean their ugly haha Edit: so I used to put brakes on Hondas for a living, normally a squeak is because you need to lubricant the touch points where the pins go through the holes in the pads and/or where the pad edges touch the caliper. It's just a small vibration that the grey brake lubricant helps cushion. Good Luck, car looks sweet! (also the carbon and upgraded brake pads can be noisy, that's normal) You might try some drilled and slotted rotors, should help the heat for sure.
@@_Gingium_ Usually what you've done takes care of it, those are super nice calipers too and those types usually don't make noise. I'm really a fan of OEM pads, they have a good feel for the street, nice, soft, and sticky right off the rip. I've had ceramic pads from the parts store and in cold wet weather they don't grab for 1-2 seconds which is scary. Maybe drilled slotted rotors would help that so there is more clamping force and less surface area persay. I bet you'd really like some stock pads, or at least give them a shot for the heck of it so you can feel the difference. They will heat soak sooner, but for most people are on the streets you are already pushing your luck with getting pulled over or something if you're smashing around for minutes upon minutes on end LOL
Stopping faster definitely means more safety. And even if you don't use their full potential, I'd imagine big brakes used gently will last longer, cause of the bigger contact patch dispersing the wear and tear.
Big brakes are useless on a daily, they do nothing to stop the car faster. Cars are limited by ABS to stop as fast as possible from factory. Bigger tires will allow you to stop faster as they allow for more friction between the road.
@@BitcoinTo100K yeah definitely big breaks would be very useful for you, more surface area will dissipate the heat faster. All I was saying is they don’t affect how fast your car stops.
no big brakes aren't worth it, you increase unsprung weight. the only benefit is brake fade resistance. Light wheels and grippy light tires matter more.
Rear sway bar off of an acura TL Manual or Type S is a bolt on for these accords and helps a ton! Also the 7th gen accord hybrid had slightly larger rear brakes, and all you need to use those are the bracket and rotor. Exact same caliper
Lil tip for everyone putting new pads in and not wanting the squweel file the sharp edges round that contact the rotor will work 80%of the time 😂 (A lil dont file down ur pads lol u just dont want sharp cornors totching the rotor)
The impact screwdriver is cammed so it twists itself upon impact (so no need to twist it yourself), but I was also wondering if he had it set to go the wrong direction.
You don’t have to twist it just have to make sure it’s in the unbolt position. Most decent impact drivers you can select it to unbolt when hit or tighten when hit.
@@MediumHalfthere's usually some play between the bit and the tool as well as the bit and the screw. You twist in the direction you want to go to take up the slack so that when you hit the tool it actually moves the screw and not the slack in the tool. It doesn't spin that much when you hit it, so if you don't take up the slack you're just using the tool as a punch, not a wrench.
@@Scrildo1 like you said "most decent impact drivers"... that's the harbor freight model lol, and im not saying its bad, I have the same one (the bits are shit, will shatter I bought some better ones), use it almost everyday as a honda tech, it needs to be turned before impact, to much play in the driveline :)
@@TDT0188 I can tell you know what you’re talking about from your comment much respect to you sir. I hit the driver to set the bit in the screw then turn to the left to take up all the slack than smack the shit out of it and hope I don’t swing and a miss and destroy my hand. My hand eye coordination sucks 😂
I did a brake upgrade using different cars calipers twice now. With both I simply cut my losses and took them straight to a brake shop to have them fully overhauled. That way you know you get 100% functional units that'll work well and won't leak. Bigger rotors have more metal on them and they can store more heat units meaning the rotors will heat up slower than smaller thinner factory ones. They are THE heat sinks (braking converts kinetic energy into heat energy) and they don't really hand over the heat through pads to calipers and wheels until reaching the limit of heat soak. Hence the heat difference between factory rotors and aftermarket ones. Also aftermarket ones likely have better cooling design, which improved the heat dissipation.
Love the way the J series sounds on these with a great exhaust setup. Seeing how simple it is, i'm tempted to go the Acura Caliper route on my 8th gen if i end up needing new rotors.That and probably going to get the upgraded rear sway bar to go along with the BC Racing Coilovers. The bigger brakes and calipers are definitely a nice look and oem+ in style; that little pop of "Acura" in silver is a nice touch and the red accents pair well with your wheels and badges. The V6 Manual Accords are so much fun!
Not exactly. You buy the brakes for your application. Brakes operate within a band of optional torque/friction. Too much brake and you’ll seriously downgrade your safety. Not enough brake and the same is true.
those laser temp meters actually don't work on shiny materials... they work best if pointed at a matte black part. with the rotors being "polished" steel that means those readings were incorrect... it gives some info about the temperature, but it isn't acurate
Suggestion try to add Celcius next time for your international viewers even if its just in the text, helps a bunch to not have to go to a converter all the time :D
Depending on how much you scrubbed the rotors with brake clean there may be some manufacturing oil on them cooking off. The stock breaks obviously would’ve burned it off years ago. Good video G!
Big HELPFUL comment here, that screeching sound at 18:05 is cuz the brake pads sit out of those rotors, basically riding on the lip of the rotor, u gotta use the brembo 350z rotor. Had the same issue using maxima rotor and then swapped to 350z brembo rotors and it went away. 🫡 You can even see the lip on the rotor on 20:52 that its riding over that lip.
IIRC, the Acura TL 6 speed w/ the Brembo front calipers had a worse 60-0 stopping time than the Automatic TL without Brembo front calipers. Just a fun fact!
Because the Brembos aren't the thing touching the ground? As long as your brakes can overpower the grip of your tires (which they always do, otherwise ABS wouldn't exist) you'll stop as quickly as you possibly can
@@istvanlorinczi2817 Idk, was a fun thing I read back a few years ago, but good point. This is 20 years ago C&D and Road&track testing w/ the OEM tires for both.
Yeah bigger brakes are usually more rotating mass and unsprung weight, which can end up being slightly worse for overall braking with the other variables the same. Tire compound is probably the biggest factor. The biggest benefit to big brakes is usually the reduction in brake fade, along with feel and consistency. If you're using them a ton, they'll generally last a lot longer before getting too hot themselves or boiling the fluid.
Before tackling secondary cosmetic things like brakes, you should have fixed up the center arm rest to match the rest of the interior. Alcantara/leather or vinyl
i did this exact same setup on my 6th gen accord and the EXACT same brake bleeder situation happened to me. same side and everything lmao. wasn’t able to save it unfortunately but i got another set and can now drive in the canyons without overheating the brakes 🙏
Loving this build even more with every new video. More than likely that squeal you’re hearing is probably because you got a more aggressive racing pad. That’s usually the typical thing that happens when going with “race brakes”
From my knowledge with bigger and better breaks you will hear the squeaking noise no matter what. I put buddyclubs big break kit on my 9th gen si and they squeaked no matter what along with my gsr integra and em1 with bigger break kits.
Keep up the 7th gen vids! I just put the larger coupe brakes in my sedan a couple months ago. Strange they didn't come with them on the 6-6-6s. This past weekend I installed Tein Street Advance 16 way adjustable. Night and say difference from my Eibachn/ Koni STr setup. Rear Konis blew after 30k. Junk! Too bad I had to wait a month for the Teins but totally worth it.
Best upgrade you could do next is a Progress rear sway bar or do a 07-08 TL type S for the more budget option, helps a ton with turn in and overall stability of any Fwd car, I do this on all my Honda’s and its the best upgrade for the money
I've been debating getting the RL upgrade for my TSX wagon. This really makes me wanna commit to it! I love this build so far. Looking forward to the next vid
Remember that an IR temp meter readings are dependable on the reflection of the surface. Therefore a darker, duller material will show higher temps than a clean shiny metal or paint. And it measures the mean value of temperatures around a certain area. The laser is just a guide and not "the" spot of the measured temp.
With braking, the real limitations is the tires. Since the ABS system is programmed for factory brakes and tires, you'll never get any better braking, at least nothing of particular note, than what the ABS allows. "bigger brakes' just distribute the heat over a larger surface, but the amount of force has not changed. All that's been done here is really allowing the tires to be used a bit more(cause more rubber on the ground means more traction). Unless the brake pressure from the master cylinder/proportioning valve is modified, you still only get stock brake pressure....just with bigger tires. That 'two tenths' was hardly a scientific measurement and could even be accounted for on the temp/humidity of the day/surface condition. Without anything being properly measured and tested, this is all considered 'butt dyno' specs. Don't get me wrong, they certainly look great! But the 'gain' is not worth the cost. Kinda like adding an open air intake but doing nothing to the cylinder head and exhaust. All parts of a system need to worth together otherwise it's just visual/audible decorations.
Well I personally can't comment on RL caliber conversion I can say that the Brembo brakes from the Acura TL Type-S works flawlessly on Honda accords they do share the same part number for the master cylinder the ABS works flawlessly in the stopping performance is really drastic
Had to stop the video to give kudos on matching the sound of gunning lugs off to the music, little things like that are why your channel stands out to me, ok back to bbk
For painting those calipers i wouldve taken the hardware out and painted them as halves and painted the hardware black. Even before painting i wouldve done a rebuild. New boots and pistons if it needed them. I believe if you dont want to go with some weird rotors you can swap the whole knuckle to one from an RL, ive seen a few complete sets on ebay but if you swap the knuckle you might also need to swap the lower control arm with how they mount the lower ball joint in the RLs
might want some lubricating grease on the pads? stops the squeaks you were experiencing, the squealing is from no lubrication and dry pads moving in the caliper. they look good!
Maybe it's just the compound the pads are made of needing more time to wear in, maybe week later probly won't smoke, I have an 06 TL and bought it a yr ago and 10 months ago I put all new napa proformer rotors but with new acura brakes from acura dealer and it stops so dam good and doesn't seem to have too much brake dust except for the first month of wearing in but they ready to stop during first install although they will get hot enough to fade if I repeadly stop agressive, I put bear vented rotors and bending pads on my 97 monte carlo many yrs ago and I tried bedding those rotors in like this but it didn't really feel much improved untill a week later, Cool video!
In order to not loose brake fluid when you replace a caliper/brake hose, get a brake pedal depressor and push the pedal down about and inch to an inch and a half and you won't loose any fluid.
I've always been able to get those set screws for the rotor out with an impact drill. Just push really hard to prevent it to slip and gun it with the drill.
If you want a slightly upgraded rear brake disc that may fit with maybe no modification, the 4th gen altima coupe has a slightly larger rear brake diameter, by like an inch or so but are like 10mm wider, so on paper they'd definitely could help brakes just that much more without being too big, and also probably still allowing use of factory parking brake without any modification. Calipers might not be interchangeable so i don't know about them but the disc alone may be worth looking into
I have one of these it’s auto sadly tho I’ve done a couple of things on it like Cold air intake, light weight crank pulley, j35 magnesium ported and polished intake, j35 ported and polished runners, Egr delete, full 3 inch straight pipe from the j pipe back. Ported throttle body. And also slotted rotors done to it ofc, it is such a blast and I love it sm 130k miles too
Depends on the pads you buy is why they squeak. Once after changing the pads from stock to aftermarket on a RL they would speak until they got hot, if you want decent pads that don’t speak grab factory RL pads you can get em online or at the dealer but they would be super expensive.
Poly suspension bushings (reds or blacks for suspension, purples or yellows for engine/trans) and bump the fitment up to 9.5 wide wheels and 265/40 tires. Then a short throw shifter and possibly a centrifugal supercharger instead of a turbo. I mean if you're only going for mid-power anyway (like 400whp) and likely not gonna swap the heads for individual exhaust ports, you might as well make the plumbing and programming simpler with a centri blower.
It's possible the stock brakes were glazed so they don't look as hot because they've already been overheated and it's basically like rubbing two smooth pieces of iron together. With the ceramic pads and rotors the surface is fresh and more abrasive so it's like rubbing two pieces of sandpaper together instead, and since they are new they haven't been subject to any heat at all so they're still doing their thing to get used to the heat.
Nice to see some 7th gen love. i would recommend some TL type S sway bars front and rear. Can pick them up even new for around $300 all in and will probably make the biggest difference in handling besides tires.
That's crazy I was thinking in my head you should do this upgrade because I'm doing it to my 09 Accord since the stock brake system likes to warp the calipers. Good to know it's worth it and got a great tutorial too lol
Supercharge it! They make enough power with a supercharge and bigger displacement. Then get a tune by Derek Robinson. Your experience with doing the brakes is what happens when I work on any of my cars. I always mess up a bolt! Snaps and I’m screwed.
Well done! Your Accord looks great! I really want to put the effort in on my 04 k24 manual ex sedan but the paint and interior are so far gone. Texas sun is brutal.
I honestly, in my personal experience, if I'm wanting good brake performance I go hawk pads or stop techs. I run hawk hps 5.0 on my car and they stop HARD. I think you would be pleased with them
You need some grooved discs and some brake ducts to cool the discs off, bearing in mind those discs weren't designed for 4 pots with ceramic pads. Wouldn't recommend drilled, they like cracking even on fast road applications
( I think the squeaking is from, when you put the pads in on the every edge and face (the face the piston pushes on)(or put in a stainless steel shim) you should put a bit of grease, should custom make a front brake duct to get cold air from the front fog light outside housing )
they're just burning off all the oils and curing the high temperature paint. The bed in process you did just needed to be a little more aggressive, I always did 60-20mph like 4x and let em cool once I see and smell them burning the crap off. Next video can't come soon enough, I love these builds
If you changed the Brake Fluid after the test with the Old brakes, isn't it possible, that this change was responsible for the improvement more than the bigger Brakes?
Love my Advics RL calipers G loc and Porterfield offer race compounds for the US market. Endless and Pmu can be had ordering for Honda kb1/2 Nice video!
Who's ready to see this thing turbo? Also, stop leaving yourself vulnerable to data breaches. Go to my sponsor aura.com/gingium to get a 14-day free trial and see if any of your data has been exposed
In my opinion bro id say leave like this its ur daily its supposed to be reliable and decent on fuel while ur other cars are for fun and stuff right?
Defi keep it NA.. no turbo
I would go SC instead of turbo.
@@tompettersson3814 at least yeah i agree
Full chassis brace
Sussed you out Gingium!
Buy a daily, mod the hell out of it, no longer a daily...
Buy a new daily, mod the hell out of it, no longer a daily...
Rinse and repeat... and it's bloody brilliant! 😂🤣
Honestly such a fun process lol
"...and this thing isn't even turbo yet." Slid that in so quick I almost missed it!
😏
👀👀👀
@@_Gingium_that V6 deserves a supercharger bro
Noooo J37 bottom end swap! You got a high mileage car, a turbo will blow that engine.
@@johnmitchell2269 Is his car at the end of the day 🤷🏻♂️ But I agree this car will definitely give better driving experience supercharged.
Tires & brakes are the most overlooked modifications, but so worth it.
Yep! You need to stop faster too.
no big brakes aren't worth it, you increase unsprung weight. the only benefit is brake fade resistance. Light wheels and grippy light tires matter more.
@@iBeo01 If you can lock them up/trigger ABS then yeah it's pointless, but if you *can't* (AKA you're not limited by your tyres), it absolutely will improve stopping times.
@@iBeo01 you forget most vehicles on the road have compromised brakes or under preforming brakes due to time and wear.
@@iBeo01That is true but you can do like I did om my MK5 GTI, I went with two piece rotors of the same size as stock and I added four piston calipers from a Porsche Boxster 986, both of which saved rotating weight, now my braking ability is much better than it was stock.
Next mod? Rear sway bars will make a heck of a difference when you want to rotate around a corner. These cars are pretty nose heavy and any loosening of the tail helps!
And for anyone on a budget, I believe Acura TL rear sway bars fit. They’re a bit thicker than what comes on the Accord and are also cheaper than aftermarket ones from what I’ve seen.
H&R rear sway bars does mine justice 👌🏾
@@dy1angi11ey6Yep I bought a TL Type S sway bar for $50 and it upped the stock 13mm bar to a 20mm. I also bought the front one when I replaced my steering rack
@@dy1angi11ey6i put a 4g tl sway bar on my crosstour, all in with new end links, hardware, brackets, and bushings it was $300. All oem parts
yep, especially for anything fwd rear arbs are super impactful when it comes to cornering
Mad props on showing the mistakes. I think we are creating a generation of people that think BBK swaps can be done in just a few minutes. People need to see the ugly part too.
exactly it’s very relatable because i went through the exact same issue with the same setup on my accord lmao
Couldn’t agree more. I tried.
I'm sure someone else has mentioned it, but you can always get repair bleeders. It's usually a brass tapered insert with NPT threads that has a smaller bleeder in it so it goes back to functioning like a normal bleeder. Bonus is that they don't usually rust solid again because of the brass.
Yeah this is probably a better option than having potentially dodgy brakes.
@@DJKr15py Yeah I'd check it with the engine running so there is booster and push the pedal hard several times. As long as it seals it's probably good to go, but just for future reference and all at least. :D
Just because their small doesn't mean their ugly haha Edit: so I used to put brakes on Hondas for a living, normally a squeak is because you need to lubricant the touch points where the pins go through the holes in the pads and/or where the pad edges touch the caliper. It's just a small vibration that the grey brake lubricant helps cushion. Good Luck, car looks sweet! (also the carbon and upgraded brake pads can be noisy, that's normal) You might try some drilled and slotted rotors, should help the heat for sure.
I hope he sees this
Dang, I lubricated the pins & pad edges, but not the back where it touches the piston.
@@_Gingium_ Usually what you've done takes care of it, those are super nice calipers too and those types usually don't make noise. I'm really a fan of OEM pads, they have a good feel for the street, nice, soft, and sticky right off the rip. I've had ceramic pads from the parts store and in cold wet weather they don't grab for 1-2 seconds which is scary. Maybe drilled slotted rotors would help that so there is more clamping force and less surface area persay. I bet you'd really like some stock pads, or at least give them a shot for the heck of it so you can feel the difference. They will heat soak sooner, but for most people are on the streets you are already pushing your luck with getting pulled over or something if you're smashing around for minutes upon minutes on end LOL
They’re
@@_Gingium_
Rookie mistake. 😂 Kidding bro, keep up the great content. Bring back the VW content
Smart choice with black for the rear calipers. Red painted tiny oem calipers can look cheap.
I found a set of Acura RL 4-piston calipers from my junkyard. Pulled them out and paid $60 for the pair. Win!
You got lucky that's usually the first part that goes off the RL
Stopping faster definitely means more safety. And even if you don't use their full potential, I'd imagine big brakes used gently will last longer, cause of the bigger contact patch dispersing the wear and tear.
All great points!
Big brakes are useless on a daily, they do nothing to stop the car faster. Cars are limited by ABS to stop as fast as possible from factory. Bigger tires will allow you to stop faster as they allow for more friction between the road.
@@joemother1098depends I live in the mountains and will cook any brakes not bbk
@@BitcoinTo100K yeah definitely big breaks would be very useful for you, more surface area will dissipate the heat faster. All I was saying is they don’t affect how fast your car stops.
no big brakes aren't worth it, you increase unsprung weight. the only benefit is brake fade resistance. Light wheels and grippy light tires matter more.
Ultimate daily I’ve ever had was my 06 RL. Ultimate luxury for the price with the Honda reliability and more features than 90% of cars today.
What maintenance have you done ? I was looking for one a couple months ago in the 6-8k range ended up going with a 95 sc400
Nice to see another accord getting big brakes, I didn’t know they made adapter brackets. Definitely easier than how I did mine.
yeah i thought you had to get the knuckle from the car you got the brakes off
@@michaelharland9599that’s for the tl type s brembos swap
RL swap just need adapter and rotors
for the stuck rotor screws - bang on them a few times with a sledge and solid screwdriver first (no twisting, just pound), then use the impact driver.
Rear sway bar off of an acura TL Manual or Type S is a bolt on for these accords and helps a ton!
Also the 7th gen accord hybrid had slightly larger rear brakes, and all you need to use those are the bracket and rotor. Exact same caliper
Jseries induction noises into vtec crossover always sound so good
Didn’t know Ging was an Accord Fan.
SUPERCHARGE THAT V6
Brake paste on the brake pad sliding surfaces and back of the brake pads would probably help with the noise under braking
Lil tip for everyone putting new pads in and not wanting the squweel file the sharp edges round that contact the rotor will work 80%of the time 😂
(A lil dont file down ur pads lol u just dont want sharp cornors totching the rotor)
You need to twist the impact as you hit it and set it to the right direction
The impact screwdriver is cammed so it twists itself upon impact (so no need to twist it yourself), but I was also wondering if he had it set to go the wrong direction.
You don’t have to twist it just have to make sure it’s in the unbolt position. Most decent impact drivers you can select it to unbolt when hit or tighten when hit.
@@MediumHalfthere's usually some play between the bit and the tool as well as the bit and the screw. You twist in the direction you want to go to take up the slack so that when you hit the tool it actually moves the screw and not the slack in the tool. It doesn't spin that much when you hit it, so if you don't take up the slack you're just using the tool as a punch, not a wrench.
@@Scrildo1 like you said "most decent impact drivers"... that's the harbor freight model lol, and im not saying its bad, I have the same one (the bits are shit, will shatter I bought some better ones), use it almost everyday as a honda tech, it needs to be turned before impact, to much play in the driveline :)
@@TDT0188 I can tell you know what you’re talking about from your comment much respect to you sir. I hit the driver to set the bit in the screw then turn to the left to take up all the slack than smack the shit out of it and hope I don’t swing and a miss and destroy my hand. My hand eye coordination sucks 😂
I did a brake upgrade using different cars calipers twice now. With both I simply cut my losses and took them straight to a brake shop to have them fully overhauled. That way you know you get 100% functional units that'll work well and won't leak.
Bigger rotors have more metal on them and they can store more heat units meaning the rotors will heat up slower than smaller thinner factory ones. They are THE heat sinks (braking converts kinetic energy into heat energy) and they don't really hand over the heat through pads to calipers and wheels until reaching the limit of heat soak. Hence the heat difference between factory rotors and aftermarket ones. Also aftermarket ones likely have better cooling design, which improved the heat dissipation.
That intake sound tho 16:04
Love the way the J series sounds on these with a great exhaust setup. Seeing how simple it is, i'm tempted to go the Acura Caliper route on my 8th gen if i end up needing new rotors.That and probably going to get the upgraded rear sway bar to go along with the BC Racing Coilovers. The bigger brakes and calipers are definitely a nice look and oem+ in style; that little pop of "Acura" in silver is a nice touch and the red accents pair well with your wheels and badges. The V6 Manual Accords are so much fun!
Just a heads up: never put paste on flat surfaces under the disc or rim, this can cause vibrations.
I put some big OEM brakes with APR rotors on my car and I'm so much more confident and love the look the car has now, BRAKES ARE WORTH IT
Bumper camera. FIRST TIME I got a real feeling for the speed of the vehicle I'm watching... ever. Very nice!
Might benefit from master cylinder upgrade as well, since the RL calipers probably need more fluid volume.
Idk why I’m so invested in this build I just love this car now the transformation is insane
Better brakes are always worth it ;)
Exactly
Youve made this car from being a Beater to looking like a 12000$ Car!@@_Gingium_
Not exactly. You buy the brakes for your application. Brakes operate within a band of optional torque/friction.
Too much brake and you’ll seriously downgrade your safety. Not enough brake and the same is true.
My family has a 07 Accord V6 Sedan. This is very tempting...
those laser temp meters actually don't work on shiny materials... they work best if pointed at a matte black part. with the rotors being "polished" steel that means those readings were incorrect... it gives some info about the temperature, but it isn't acurate
Suggestion try to add Celcius next time for your international viewers even if its just in the text, helps a bunch to not have to go to a converter all the time :D
I put 255 ps4s and 18x9.5 enkei ts5s on my civic and it made so much more fun to drive
Depending on how much you scrubbed the rotors with brake clean there may be some manufacturing oil on them cooking off. The stock breaks obviously would’ve burned it off years ago. Good video G!
Daily turned into full build I love it , same thing happened with my 07 6spd tsx 😎
Big HELPFUL comment here, that screeching sound at 18:05 is cuz the brake pads sit out of those rotors, basically riding on the lip of the rotor, u gotta use the brembo 350z rotor. Had the same issue using maxima rotor and then swapped to 350z brembo rotors and it went away. 🫡
You can even see the lip on the rotor on 20:52 that its riding over that lip.
This Honda is legit. I love the exhaust sound.
IIRC, the Acura TL 6 speed w/ the Brembo front calipers had a worse 60-0 stopping time than the Automatic TL without Brembo front calipers. Just a fun fact!
Because the Brembos aren't the thing touching the ground? As long as your brakes can overpower the grip of your tires (which they always do, otherwise ABS wouldn't exist) you'll stop as quickly as you possibly can
@@istvanlorinczi2817 Idk, was a fun thing I read back a few years ago, but good point. This is 20 years ago C&D and Road&track testing w/ the OEM tires for both.
Yeah bigger brakes are usually more rotating mass and unsprung weight, which can end up being slightly worse for overall braking with the other variables the same. Tire compound is probably the biggest factor. The biggest benefit to big brakes is usually the reduction in brake fade, along with feel and consistency. If you're using them a ton, they'll generally last a lot longer before getting too hot themselves or boiling the fluid.
You always post high quality videos. This has good flow and great cinematography
Before tackling secondary cosmetic things like brakes, you should have fixed up the center arm rest to match the rest of the interior. Alcantara/leather or vinyl
i did this exact same setup on my 6th gen accord and the EXACT same brake bleeder situation happened to me. same side and everything lmao. wasn’t able to save it unfortunately but i got another set and can now drive in the canyons without overheating the brakes 🙏
I know this episode is about brakes but damn that V6 sings brother.
Loving this build even more with every new video. More than likely that squeal you’re hearing is probably because you got a more aggressive racing pad. That’s usually the typical thing that happens when going with “race brakes”
From my knowledge with bigger and better breaks you will hear the squeaking noise no matter what. I put buddyclubs big break kit on my 9th gen si and they squeaked no matter what along with my gsr integra and em1 with bigger break kits.
love this car and love watching you build hondas
Im glad you did hot and cold test, its often overlooked. Greatjob gingium
Keep up the 7th gen vids! I just put the larger coupe brakes in my sedan a couple months ago. Strange they didn't come with them on the 6-6-6s. This past weekend I installed Tein Street Advance 16 way adjustable. Night and say difference from my Eibachn/ Koni STr setup. Rear Konis blew after 30k. Junk! Too bad I had to wait a month for the Teins but totally worth it.
For those disk bolts use should use a zipgun with the philips bit on with! As a canadian mecanic, It works 95% of the time.
The force screwdriver tool is good but the right bit is crucial and you have the turn it hard anticlockwise while you wack it, works 8/10
Best upgrade you could do next is a Progress rear sway bar or do a 07-08 TL type S for the more budget option, helps a ton with turn in and overall stability of any Fwd car, I do this on all my Honda’s and its the best upgrade for the money
That thing sounds great!
I've been debating getting the RL upgrade for my TSX wagon. This really makes me wanna commit to it! I love this build so far. Looking forward to the next vid
So worth it, I upgraded on my accord with the same power stop z23 carbon fiber ceramic pads and they feel incredible.
Remember that an IR temp meter readings are dependable on the reflection of the surface. Therefore a darker, duller material will show higher temps than a clean shiny metal or paint. And it measures the mean value of temperatures around a certain area. The laser is just a guide and not "the" spot of the measured temp.
love the fact that you do a comparison of stock vs modded for every mod your doing to this car
With braking, the real limitations is the tires. Since the ABS system is programmed for factory brakes and tires, you'll never get any better braking, at least nothing of particular note, than what the ABS allows. "bigger brakes' just distribute the heat over a larger surface, but the amount of force has not changed. All that's been done here is really allowing the tires to be used a bit more(cause more rubber on the ground means more traction). Unless the brake pressure from the master cylinder/proportioning valve is modified, you still only get stock brake pressure....just with bigger tires. That 'two tenths' was hardly a scientific measurement and could even be accounted for on the temp/humidity of the day/surface condition. Without anything being properly measured and tested, this is all considered 'butt dyno' specs.
Don't get me wrong, they certainly look great! But the 'gain' is not worth the cost. Kinda like adding an open air intake but doing nothing to the cylinder head and exhaust. All parts of a system need to worth together otherwise it's just visual/audible decorations.
Well I personally can't comment on RL caliber conversion I can say that the Brembo brakes from the Acura TL Type-S works flawlessly on Honda accords they do share the same part number for the master cylinder the ABS works flawlessly in the stopping performance is really drastic
Had to stop the video to give kudos on matching the sound of gunning lugs off to the music, little things like that are why your channel stands out to me, ok back to bbk
For painting those calipers i wouldve taken the hardware out and painted them as halves and painted the hardware black. Even before painting i wouldve done a rebuild. New boots and pistons if it needed them. I believe if you dont want to go with some weird rotors you can swap the whole knuckle to one from an RL, ive seen a few complete sets on ebay but if you swap the knuckle you might also need to swap the lower control arm with how they mount the lower ball joint in the RLs
might want some lubricating grease on the pads? stops the squeaks you were experiencing, the squealing is from no lubrication and dry pads moving in the caliper. they look good!
Carbon ceramic pads will almost always squeak. Sometimes, as mine did, will stop squeaking after many heat cycles.
Maybe it's just the compound the pads are made of needing more time to wear in, maybe week later probly won't smoke, I have an 06 TL and bought it a yr ago and 10 months ago I put all new napa proformer rotors but with new acura brakes from acura dealer and it stops so dam good and doesn't seem to have too much brake dust except for the first month of wearing in but they ready to stop during first install although they will get hot enough to fade if I repeadly stop agressive, I put bear vented rotors and bending pads on my 97 monte carlo many yrs ago and I tried bedding those rotors in like this but it didn't really feel much improved untill a week later, Cool video!
Something about that 6-6 coupe 😍. More videos please
In order to not loose brake fluid when you replace a caliper/brake hose, get a brake pedal depressor and push the pedal down about and inch to an inch and a half and you won't loose any fluid.
I've always been able to get those set screws for the rotor out with an impact drill. Just push really hard to prevent it to slip and gun it with the drill.
the intake sounds so good 🔥
my favorite series on youtube
One minute in and i'm so stoked to see the results from these tests
If you want a slightly upgraded rear brake disc that may fit with maybe no modification, the 4th gen altima coupe has a slightly larger rear brake diameter, by like an inch or so but are like 10mm wider, so on paper they'd definitely could help brakes just that much more without being too big, and also probably still allowing use of factory parking brake without any modification. Calipers might not be interchangeable so i don't know about them but the disc alone may be worth looking into
I have one of these it’s auto sadly tho I’ve done a couple of things on it like Cold air intake, light weight crank pulley, j35 magnesium ported and polished intake, j35 ported and polished runners, Egr delete, full 3 inch straight pipe from the j pipe back. Ported throttle body. And also slotted rotors done to it ofc, it is such a blast and I love it sm 130k miles too
In my experience powerstop pads get really smokey work great though
Depends on the pads you buy is why they squeak. Once after changing the pads from stock to aftermarket on a RL they would speak until they got hot, if you want decent pads that don’t speak grab factory RL pads you can get em online or at the dealer but they would be super expensive.
Poly suspension bushings (reds or blacks for suspension, purples or yellows for engine/trans) and bump the fitment up to 9.5 wide wheels and 265/40 tires. Then a short throw shifter and possibly a centrifugal supercharger instead of a turbo. I mean if you're only going for mid-power anyway (like 400whp) and likely not gonna swap the heads for individual exhaust ports, you might as well make the plumbing and programming simpler with a centri blower.
It's possible the stock brakes were glazed so they don't look as hot because they've already been overheated and it's basically like rubbing two smooth pieces of iron together. With the ceramic pads and rotors the surface is fresh and more abrasive so it's like rubbing two pieces of sandpaper together instead, and since they are new they haven't been subject to any heat at all so they're still doing their thing to get used to the heat.
I love the testing aspect, more than just the install, love it. The segway into the ad was top notch 😂
Nice to see some 7th gen love. i would recommend some TL type S sway bars front and rear. Can pick them up even new for around $300 all in and will probably make the biggest difference in handling besides tires.
Always wanted to do this upgrade on my ep3!
really need to do this to my 6-6! looks good and performs good!
AYEEEE RL mentioned a very underrated Acura fr
Now imagine if you had some good tires on there! Not hating on the promotional deals, but better tires would make an even bigger difference.
Noted. Break the bleeders off the car. Gonna do a break swap soon so this is good advice
I appreciate this video series. Pumping up thr value of my Accord when I sell it
That's crazy I was thinking in my head you should do this upgrade because I'm doing it to my 09 Accord since the stock brake system likes to warp the calipers. Good to know it's worth it and got a great tutorial too lol
Supercharge it! They make enough power with a supercharge and bigger displacement. Then get a tune by Derek Robinson. Your experience with doing the brakes is what happens when I work on any of my cars. I always mess up a bolt! Snaps and I’m screwed.
Well done! Your Accord looks great! I really want to put the effort in on my 04 k24 manual ex sedan but the paint and interior are so far gone. Texas sun is brutal.
I had the first ever bbk done for this car. it was made by wildwood through pression brakes
Awesome car! J series hands down my fav! Had 3 Acura TLs one with the j32 and two with the j35 😤
Loving this build!
Great video Caleb! Just a convenient tip, swap the spray can nozzle with the gray easy reach WD40 nozzle in the future. Thank me later😊
I honestly, in my personal experience, if I'm wanting good brake performance I go hawk pads or stop techs. I run hawk hps 5.0 on my car and they stop HARD. I think you would be pleased with them
Before the turbo!!. Can you do a 100shot of Nitrous .. that would be pretty sweet to see the dyno numbers. !! Keep it coming . Boss
I would keep my 2007 Accord coupe if i was a mechanic. I loved that car!
You need some grooved discs and some brake ducts to cool the discs off, bearing in mind those discs weren't designed for 4 pots with ceramic pads. Wouldn't recommend drilled, they like cracking even on fast road applications
Recently painted calipers and baked them at 200 Fahrenheit, they smoked like that
great video. love these 6-6 accords. cant wait to see the build process
Sounds sweet, looks hot 🔥 accord boys ftw
( I think the squeaking is from, when you put the pads in on the every edge and face (the face the piston pushes on)(or put in a stainless steel shim) you should put a bit of grease, should custom make a front brake duct to get cold air from the front fog light outside housing )
The moment you threw the instruction manual after looking at it, i felt that thats me every time🤣🤣
they're just burning off all the oils and curing the high temperature paint. The bed in process you did just needed to be a little more aggressive, I always did 60-20mph like 4x and let em cool once I see and smell them burning the crap off. Next video can't come soon enough, I love these builds
Yep, I babied it when I bedded them in 😭
Ah I didn't even think about his painted calipers- that's totally what was smoking so much
If you changed the Brake Fluid after the test with the Old brakes, isn't it possible, that this change was responsible for the improvement more than the bigger Brakes?
cant wait to see the turbo
Love my Advics RL calipers
G loc and Porterfield offer race compounds for the US market. Endless and Pmu can be had ordering for Honda kb1/2
Nice video!
Just picked up a 13 coupe 6-6 auto and it rips j35 is a beast