Here is a run through on making a redware slip trailed ,slump mold plate .. Joggeled Ware popular in Stadfordshire in the 1600's are the inspiration here .
The reason I do this in the way I do is that there is a span from wet to dry to stay on track and mindful of .. The flat slab being addherded to the bat makes for an easy surface to trail (yes the trailing must be above the surface of the pot and thats a skill to learn ) joggleing the flat plate on the bat is a snap .When its dryer it is taken off the bat and curved on a hump mold . Its just a skill and it takes doing it for a bit to feel at ease just like any other skill .. All the best , Guy
Coggles can be made from many objects/ To make a cross hatching of "fine Dent " I use a peanut butter jar lid on a nut and screw . Very easy to make .. Google the word Coggle All the best , Guy
Love your enthusiasm Guy! So inspiring! Great technique using the rolling pin on the wheel! never thought of that! The finished plates are just beautiful! Thanks for sharing, Regards, Sue.
Thanks for the great lessons Guy.. I just watched the entire playlist again and learned a heap.. again! It's been fun hanging out with you in your studio whilst you make things and shoot the breeze about clay, technique and historical forms. I'm looking forward to the day you make a bunch more with an HD camera so I can see all the details and the way the wet clay catches the light. I'd love to see how you make saucers for your pots or coggles for decorating them. Thinking about it, there's so much to be gleaned from seeing a master potter work that teaches as much as speaking about it. Make more!! All the very best and thanks again.
@guywolff What a steal! Ive only seen marbled slipware in bernard leach's "a potters book", and i always wondered how it really works because he vaguely describes the process. cant wait to try this out, thanks for teaching/demonstrating mr.wolff
Yes the materials have to shrink at the same rate. They have to "fit " . For instance to much ball clay and the trailing will pull away(Or if you tried to do it on biscit ) . I does help that all these clays are very wet when they were put together . When joining to sections of a big pot the old Italians use slip not water while throwing .. Slip joins together when water (as water) in not involved .. Very different things water and slip ..
Hi Guy, found you on utube at last! Have to say throwing slabs is definitely cheating, but I'll forgive you the result is beautiful thanks for the demo.
Hello Guy, Thanks for posting these videos, they are really interesting. Can you please tell me about the edging tool that you use in this video? I think I want one, I think I need one. Cheers
I love this! Would you know of a resource that teaches this type of pottery decoration, or even something that has recipes for making the slips as well as the pouring cups? Thanks for any suggestions you may have.
I just save my stoneware slip from the wheel and add copper to it for the green and iron to the red clay slip .White stoneware slip for white .All this happens on wet clay after drying the pots are glazed and fired at cone 02 .All the best , Guy
@1newbernnc Hello ..My trailers are made from .75 pounds of clay . I throw a bottle and then cut a hole in one side for loading and unloading slip and flatten the other ;MAking a container that sits on the table and is easy to clean . I was shown how to slip trail at Wetheriggs Pottery while staying there with Joffy Snell in the early 1970's . Wetheriggs used cow horns with a goose quill for "Gravity flow sliptrainling " I have pictures of my trailers at my facebook page . All the best , Guy
Hi Guy! This is another great video! I use so many of your techniques here in Japan. My teachers are great on throwing, but not so great on slab work. I have trouble while drying the plates on my bisque fires mold: the edge rises off the mold, the dish turning itself back into a flat disc. Drying too fast? To slow? Any ideas as to why this happens?
the rim dries before the body making it distort .. When getting harder and before the rim becomes dry/ hand rap some plastic around the rim and leave the body open to the air .Try drying it turned over with a rapped rim . This may work .. OR . Also try dring it on a slatted open shelf so air can get at the body as early on as possible ..
Thank you so much! I’ll try wrapping the rims on my next set of dishes. When I think about what’s happened to my dishes, your answer makes complete sense. Thanks again. A great help!!
i have tried this technique a couple of times and for me the pieces work will both wet and leather hard. i found it easier to do it leather hard because it allowed me to not nick the plate. what i have been having problems with is getting it off the bat. somehow i always cut it off unevenly. i have tried using a canvas bat on top of a wooden bat but then when i do the slip technique the plate goes flying. any other methods u might know?
@Swaynze33 I am having so much fun and they come out very quickly so they are Marked $60.00 and then I say they are on sale for $45.00 , WIth that people are buying 4 at a pop .. HO HO HOI
@@guywolff Can I ask what clay body you're using? Glaze, too, if you don't mind sharing. This was so cool. Had a great deal of fun showing this to my class.
I recently tried this. Unfortunately my pieces cracked in the drying process after being under plastic ceveral days.I had also made mugs and they went first! Also, I noticed that some designs which I had added flaked off. What do you think the main reason for this is? I have more going and am hoping for a better outcome!
The biggest trick is making sure the slips you are using shink at the same rate as the clay body .. I am using a ceader heights stoneware clay called goldart with the same companies red clay called Redart .. Also as soon as the pots are dry enough to go on their rims everything is turned over on slatted beards for more even faster drying No plastic at all .. The other trick is to make sure all your "joinery " is done under compression ... Good luck and all the best ..
The reason I do this in the way I do is that there is a span from wet to dry to stay on track and mindful of .. The flat slab being addherded to the bat makes for an easy surface to trail (yes the trailing must be above the surface of the pot and thats a skill to learn ) joggleing the flat plate on the bat is a snap .When its dryer it is taken off the bat and curved on a hump mold . Its just a skill and it takes doing it for a bit to feel at ease just like any other skill .. All the best , Guy
Thanks for all the lessons. They are great. One day when I get time I will have to come visit and buy some pots.
Coggles can be made from many objects/ To make a cross hatching of "fine Dent " I use a peanut butter jar lid on a nut and screw . Very easy to make .. Google the word Coggle All the best , Guy
Oh Guy! That is so cool! I could easily get addicted to this process. Thanks for sharing!!!
Great to visit your shop today. Love seeing the technique here and so happy to bring plates home to enjoy Thank you!
wooow.... craaazy - and the results are pretty awesome. thanks for sharing.
Love your enthusiasm Guy! So inspiring! Great technique using the rolling pin on the wheel! never thought of that! The finished plates are just beautiful!
Thanks for sharing,
Regards,
Sue.
Thanks for the great lessons Guy.. I just watched the entire playlist again and learned a heap.. again! It's been fun hanging out with you in your studio whilst you make things and shoot the breeze about clay, technique and historical forms. I'm looking forward to the day you make a bunch more with an HD camera so I can see all the details and the way the wet clay catches the light. I'd love to see how you make saucers for your pots or coggles for decorating them. Thinking about it, there's so much to be gleaned from seeing a master potter work that teaches as much as speaking about it. Make more!! All the very best and thanks again.
+Waynos Waynos Thanks for the kind note .. So much fun working in the shop .. All the best , Guy
@guywolff What a steal! Ive only seen marbled slipware in bernard leach's "a potters book", and i always wondered how it really works because he vaguely describes the process. cant wait to try this out, thanks for teaching/demonstrating mr.wolff
Wow!!! How neat is this!!!
Man great instruction, great technique and great video! Thanks for your time and knowledge, I am going to try this! Really appreciated!
Unbelievable! What great skill you have!
Always kool watching you make stuff.
Thank you for the lesson! It's beautyful!
Thanks for sharing more of your talents !!
Lovely! I watched it with a smile
Fascinating, Guy! Thanks :)
Great video!
Merci pour cette démonstration. j'essayerais un jour! Merci
Awesome, thanks for the lessons.
Wow those are wicked kool
That is so cool!
Sorry I missed this .It is very important to work these materials when they are all wet . The forming of the plate happens just before leather hard ..
Yes the materials have to shrink at the same rate. They have to "fit " . For instance to much ball clay and the trailing will pull away(Or if you tried to do it on biscit ) . I does help that all these clays are very wet when they were put together . When joining to sections of a big pot the old Italians use slip not water while throwing .. Slip joins together when water (as water) in not involved .. Very different things water and slip ..
@Toedogg1 Hi these are earthenware traditional hump mold pltes fired around 2000 df or orton cone 03 . All the best , Guy
Wicked cool!
Would interestig to see the finished works.
Hi Guy, found you on utube at last! Have to say throwing slabs is definitely cheating, but I'll forgive you the result is beautiful thanks for the demo.
Great to find you here Sarah .. All the best , Guy
@Daceyhaughwout Thanks thats always a nice thing and the way we keep the pottery going !! Yours Guy
I have lots of pictures up at my facebook page photos..All the best , G
Hello Guy,
Thanks for posting these videos, they are really interesting.
Can you please tell me about the edging tool that you use in this video? I think I want one, I think I need one.
Cheers
I love this! Would you know of a resource that teaches this type of pottery decoration, or even something that has recipes for making the slips as well as the pouring cups? Thanks for any suggestions you may have.
I just save my stoneware slip from the wheel and add copper to it for the green and iron to the red clay slip .White stoneware slip for white .All this happens on wet clay after drying the pots are glazed and fired at cone 02 .All the best , Guy
@@guywolff Thanks for this! Are you using oxides for the color? Thanks again.
@@sandyfeat WHite clay for white white clay plus copper oxides for green . red clay +iron oxide for red .. Test % for your color combination:)
@1newbernnc Hello ..My trailers are made from .75 pounds of clay . I throw a bottle and then cut a hole in one side for loading and unloading slip and flatten the other ;MAking a container that sits on the table and is easy to clean . I was shown how to slip trail at Wetheriggs Pottery while staying there with Joffy Snell in the early 1970's . Wetheriggs used cow horns with a goose quill for "Gravity flow sliptrainling " I have pictures of my trailers at my facebook page . All the best , Guy
I use cone 10 gas. can I use a clear glaze to fire? Very sweet process.
Jann
Hi Guy! This is another great video! I use so many of your techniques here in Japan. My teachers are great on throwing, but not so great on slab work. I have trouble while drying the plates on my bisque fires mold: the edge rises off the mold, the dish turning itself back into a flat disc. Drying too fast? To slow? Any ideas as to why this happens?
the rim dries before the body making it distort .. When getting harder and before the rim becomes dry/ hand rap some plastic around the rim and leave the body open to the air .Try drying it turned over with a rapped rim . This may work .. OR . Also try dring it on a slatted open shelf so air can get at the body as early on as possible ..
Thank you so much! I’ll try wrapping the rims on my next set of dishes. When I think about what’s happened to my dishes, your answer makes complete sense. Thanks again. A great help!!
quick question! do u apply the slip right off the wheel or do u wait until the piece gets leather hard?
i have tried this technique a couple of times and for me the pieces work will both wet and leather hard. i found it easier to do it leather hard because it allowed me to not nick the plate. what i have been having problems with is getting it off the bat. somehow i always cut it off unevenly. i have tried using a canvas bat on top of a wooden bat but then when i do the slip technique the plate goes flying. any other methods u might know?
Hello, what size that plate? Most of the plate are 12" dia. Yours are the same size? Thanks in advance... Lisa from Washougal, Washington
are these once fired? or do you bisque fire then clear glaze them?
These are great. What temperature do you fire to for your glazing? Is it Cone 10?
It will depend on his clay, some clays are better fired at lower Temps, others like porcelain can be/ should be fired at higher temps.
what is the tool you're using at 11:04 to lift the edge? I don't think I've ever seen that.
@Swaynze33 I am having so much fun and they come out very quickly so they are Marked $60.00 and then I say they are on sale for $45.00 , WIth that people are buying 4 at a pop .. HO HO HOI
Hi,
Go you give them a quot of clear glaze or they just come out of the kiln like that?
Thank you
+Amaurry R Yes these have a clear glaze put on raw and are fired at cone 03 or 2000 Degrees feranhieght ..
@@guywolff Can I ask what clay body you're using? Glaze, too, if you don't mind sharing. This was so cool. Had a great deal of fun showing this to my class.
I am surprised that the slip did not just flake off when you formed the plate on the mold??
amazing. how much are u selling these for?
I recently tried this. Unfortunately my pieces cracked in the drying process after being under plastic ceveral days.I had also made mugs and they went first! Also, I noticed that some designs which I had added flaked off. What do you think the main reason for this is? I have more going and am hoping for a better outcome!
The biggest trick is making sure the slips you are using shink at the same rate as the clay body .. I am using a ceader heights stoneware clay called goldart with the same companies red clay called Redart .. Also as soon as the pots are dry enough to go on their rims everything is turned over on slatted beards for more even faster drying No plastic at all .. The other trick is to make sure all your "joinery " is done under compression ... Good luck and all the best ..
Right away the wetter the beter
Yes you just need to keep an oxidized atmosphere
Wahnsinn. Welche Glasuren hast du verwendet?
A low temperature clear borax frit
@@guywolff thanks!
Do they have a foot?
Nope just rounded on the bottom to mach the shape of the top
yes once fired
I user a sea gull or goose quill
Does anyone know if this an okay technique to use in a wood firing process?
No reason it wouldn't work.