One of the wire terminals burned off mine (someone didn't turn off the breaker after i told them to!) I have a 16 gauge terminal, but it looks like the light wire actually has a 22 gauge. The terminal fits but the wire doesn't look as snug. Also the terminals look like a different color, not sure if the old terminal color due to oxidation. Does the new terminal have to be a special type, or are any terminals okay?
Thanks for watching. The terminals on the light socket in this video have different colors and this a byproduct of how lamp sockets are wired in other applications. Brass is hot and the silver colored terminal is neutral. In this case the colors shouldn't matter as there is no polarity in the light bulb itself in the oven. As for replacing the terminals itself, it's always best to replace like for like, to ensure a proper fit and connection. If the new terminal connects securely, then it should be good to go.
You're welcome. If you have a wall oven then the socket is likely accessed from inside the oven. You would have to use a screw driver to press down on the locking tabs.
I saw the socket when I was following your directions to tracking down why the oven lock wouldnt unlock .the electric motor and the arm were located in the front and the socket is right there in the front on the ceiling of the oven. That was a very productive day . And the cookie Baker was happy . Me too thanks
Thanks for watching! With a 30 million views on our channel we assume that there are a few people out there but we're just happy to share some good information!
Thanks for watching. Testing the socket using the 2 terminals at the back *without* a bulb will not have resistance as there will be no continuity. To test the socket without a bulb you would need to touch one probe to the back and one probe to the inside of the socket and repeat the test for the other 2 connections. This isn't really practical. A standard 40 watt bulb will have a resistance of about 360 ohms. Testing the socket and bulb together should also show around 360 ohms.
Did this video help you fix your oven light? Did you run into any problems? Let us know in the comments!
One of the wire terminals burned off mine (someone didn't turn off the breaker after i told them to!) I have a 16 gauge terminal, but it looks like the light wire actually has a 22 gauge. The terminal fits but the wire doesn't look as snug. Also the terminals look like a different color, not sure if the old terminal color due to oxidation. Does the new terminal have to be a special type, or are any terminals okay?
Thanks for watching. The terminals on the light socket in this video have different colors and this a byproduct of how lamp sockets are wired in other applications. Brass is hot and the silver colored terminal is neutral. In this case the colors shouldn't matter as there is no polarity in the light bulb itself in the oven.
As for replacing the terminals itself, it's always best to replace like for like, to ensure a proper fit and connection. If the new terminal connects securely, then it should be good to go.
Thanks I didnt know the socket could be changed thanks
You're welcome. If you have a wall oven then the socket is likely accessed from inside the oven. You would have to use a screw driver to press down on the locking tabs.
I saw the socket when I was following your directions to tracking down why the oven lock wouldnt unlock .the electric motor and the arm were located in the front and the socket is right there in the front on the ceiling of the oven. That was a very productive day . And the cookie Baker was happy . Me too thanks
@@rbshort151 You're welcome, we're glad that the videos were helpful to you!
am I the only one with a crush on vance?
Thanks for watching! With a 30 million views on our channel we assume that there are a few people out there but we're just happy to share some good information!
With the power wires disconnected, what should be the resistance for: 1) a good socket without the bulb; 2) a good socket only; 3) a good bulb only?
Thanks for watching. Testing the socket using the 2 terminals at the back *without* a bulb will not have resistance as there will be no continuity. To test the socket without a bulb you would need to touch one probe to the back and one probe to the inside of the socket and repeat the test for the other 2 connections. This isn't really practical.
A standard 40 watt bulb will have a resistance of about 360 ohms. Testing the socket and bulb together should also show around 360 ohms.