OMG I have to share an oven mishap that happened in my family last night. My mom's flattop Whirlpool range from the late (maybe even mid) 90's finally gave up the ghost (well, the oven control board did). She called me in a panic. She said she heard two pops, smoke coming from the control panel, the display was all wonky, no buttons responded, both the bake and broil elements were on, and the door was locked!! I told her to turn off any "double" breaker, which of course stopped the madness. Resetting the breaker the electronics that ran the oven were dead. In the meantime it's holding an unbaked cake hostage LOL. I'll be helping her shop for ranges this weekend.
I just replaced the control board (from the site u recommend) but the clock now goes faster than it should & the interior light doesn’t work now. Any idea why?
This was the best video to show all the ways to check that your oven isn't heating up.. We have determined it's the sensor and is most likely the cheapest fix of all.. I want to thank you so very much for taking the time to make this video! You were very thorough and your video was very clear in the pictures and what you were doing.. Thank you thank you
Great video, thanks and question on Maytag MER8800FZ0: oven bake when setting temperature to 350 only preheats to 280 and take long time (30 minutes). Broil works fine. What can the problem be? I can afford to pay a technician. Anybody please advise.
Thanks for the tutorial Ben. Im 99% certain after performing all the tests that it is a simple matter of replacing the element. However, one thing concerned me. I don't have much experience with electricity so please tell me what I should do. I was testing the signal of the 3 wires that connect at the bottom. I got 120 for them and 240 for the outside ones. However, upon doing the outside ones, there was a spark of elecicity which burned the red side of my multimeter. When I got the courage to check again, the reading was still normal. 120v on the two insides, 250 on the ouside except the place where the black wire connects looks burnt now, even though it works fine. What did I do and what do I do. Thanks. Matt.
Sadly, there aren't as many good factories churning out reliable parts like they used to. Frigidaire has to buy from the same garbage parts manufacturers others do. Some parts are really, really reliable still. But there are others like the control boards that really stink, because the assemblers just aren't offering good components, from what I see.
Everyones' been asking for the Oven Control Board as they are VERY hard to find: bens-appliances.com/products/5304509493-electrolux-oven-control-board-by-choice-parts
Hey Ben I replaced the broil element in my frigidaire but it is stil not heating up. My element had 2 humps lie in this video, i replaced it with one that has 3 humps..would this make a diffrerence?
I have a 18 year old glass top Frigidaire range, the problem is the oven I have to set the temperature 25 degrees higher than what I need. Which is doable for me, it’s been doing this for a few years. There is no way my husband will check it out he’s 72
We moved into my Grandparent's house that has a Magic Chef 30-inch gas stove, electronic ignition, manual on / off knobs, no electronic digital control panels. The four burners work, the oven does not. The appliance tech worked on the oven for over an hour. Replaced the broiler igniter, it did not light up. The oven igniter did light up but no gas flowing to it. Still the oven and broiler doesn't flame up. Tech said the gas valve is bad. He could not find a replacement gas valve for it. How can the gas valve be bad when the gas gets to the burners? Where can we find a replacement gas valve for the oven? I can take a photo of the appliance spec label if you can use it. Appreciate any feedback.
He needs to do an amperage test on the ignitor with electricity going to the unit, but not gas. Often times, the amperage on the ignitor isn't high enough to actually turn the gas valve on. It can glow cherry red, but if it doesn't hit >2.8a, it won't open up. This is a safety feature because it takes a certain level of heat (produced by the electrical current) to allow the gas valve to open up. I do have videos on this for Frigidaires and GEs on my channel. We've been bitten even by new ignitors being faulty out of the box, only pushing say 2.6a which wouldn't trigger the valve. A new ignitor should be in the 3.0 - 3.3a range which is well above the threshold needed.
Excellent Video! I am having trouble with my Frigidaire FFEF3018LBG electric oven. Sometimes the bake element wont come on at all. I replaced the element and the temperature sensor, but it is still erratic. When it does heat up it could take several hours to cook anything. The broiler and the stove top work fine. I am also not getting any error codes. The panel display I am using looks exactly like the one in this video. I am going to order the controller and the overlay as soon as possible, but I wanted to see if you had any other advice. ☺
Our oven is a Frigidaire model FEF352AWF with 10 buttons, but our buttons are laid out in different positions. The letter/number posts are labeled the same for the 5 main wires. Will the part you listed still work?
I have the same stove, oven wasn’t working and ended up replacing the control board from the site recommended. Oven now works, but my clock keeps changing time, any idea why or how to fix this?
Thank you so much for the video! It was perfect for me, who likes to fix before replacing. Issue ended up being the main board. Frigidaire oven is back in business! I didn't think it would be the board since the stove is only 7 years old. Indeed, it was. Disappointing because i got rid of an old Kenmore stove that worked fine, but my husband wanted new appliances. Kind of wish i had held on to the Kenmore a bit longer. Thanks again!!
If you've had the experience of having an element explode, it's a real show. We had our oven element (Magic Chef) explode and arc. Impressive. My sister in law had a stove top coil explode and blow hot bits around the kitchen.
I can't get the screws out to get to the bottom element. what do you recommend in that situation? also how long should it take for the oven to heat up afterwards?
Great video, very concise explanation, easy to follow. We have a Frigidaire model GLEB30M9FSC wall oven, the oven temperature is low, at 350 degrees the temperature is 25 low, at 450 it’s about 30 degrees low. Replaced the lower element about 6 months ago, element wasn’t heating, fell apart when removing. Went through the calibration procedure, problem persisted after calibration. Any suggestions on how to proceed? If it’s the control board what’s a good source? We are in a very rural area, service people are hard to find.
I have an Amana gas range that has a glow type of igniter. It is perhaps 15 to 20 years old. The igniter comes on quickly, BUT it then takes the oven approximately 5 minutes to light. Does this seem normal to you? If not, do you have any suggestions or a video that covers this problem? John
Should be added soon. I was given a prototype board for the vid assuming that when the video was done, they'd be available but they are running behind for another week or two
I found my way to your channel. You have showed me so much. I did get a stove and dishwasher. Your microwave class was insightful. I’ll hit stop for the rest of my life no more opening that door while running. I’ll check with you on parts when needed. 😊😊thanks😊😊
I love the video and your guidance has helped me replace the exploded bake element, but now I need the control board. The link doesn't seem to be here; can you please provide so I can support you in obtaining it?
@@bensappliancesandjunk I'm in this same boat. Trying to decide if it's worth getting the control board or getting a newer appliance as based on the serial number below it's 2017.
OMG I have to share an oven mishap that happened in my family last night. My mom's flattop Whirlpool range from the late (maybe even mid) 90's finally gave up the ghost (well, the oven control board did). She called me in a panic. She said she heard two pops, smoke coming from the control panel, the display was all wonky, no buttons responded, both the bake and broil elements were on, and the door was locked!! I told her to turn off any "double" breaker, which of course stopped the madness. Resetting the breaker the electronics that ran the oven were dead. In the meantime it's holding an unbaked cake hostage LOL. I'll be helping her shop for ranges this weekend.
I had that exact scenario happen to a tenant of mine. It can be scary!
I just replaced the control board (from the site u recommend) but the clock now goes faster than it should & the interior light doesn’t work now. Any idea why?
Having the same issue, did you find a solution to this? I also replaced the control board and now my clock keeps changing.
MAN !!! This is the BEST !!! Video ....Keep up the GOOD WORK !!!.............Thank You :)))
Thanks, will do!
This was the best video to show all the ways to check that your oven isn't heating up.. We have determined it's the sensor and is most likely the cheapest fix of all.. I want to thank you so very much for taking the time to make this video! You were very thorough and your video was very clear in the pictures and what you were doing.. Thank you thank you
Great video, thanks and question on Maytag MER8800FZ0: oven bake when setting temperature to 350 only preheats to 280 and take long time (30 minutes). Broil works fine. What can the problem be? I can afford to pay a technician. Anybody please advise.
I am having the same issue. Did you figure out what was causing yours?
Thanks for the tutorial Ben. Im 99% certain after performing all the tests that it is a simple matter of replacing the element. However, one thing concerned me. I don't have much experience with electricity so please tell me what I should do. I was testing the signal of the 3 wires that connect at the bottom. I got 120 for them and 240 for the outside ones. However, upon doing the outside ones, there was a spark of elecicity which burned the red side of my multimeter. When I got the courage to check again, the reading was still normal. 120v on the two insides, 250 on the ouside except the place where the black wire connects looks burnt now, even though it works fine. What did I do and what do I do.
Thanks. Matt.
This was really well demonstrated.
I wish Frigidaire, today, was the quality of Frigidaire in the mid-20th Century!
Sadly, there aren't as many good factories churning out reliable parts like they used to. Frigidaire has to buy from the same garbage parts manufacturers others do. Some parts are really, really reliable still. But there are others like the control boards that really stink, because the assemblers just aren't offering good components, from what I see.
I don't see the link for the mother board.
Everyones' been asking for the Oven Control Board as they are VERY hard to find: bens-appliances.com/products/5304509493-electrolux-oven-control-board-by-choice-parts
Buying *ANY APPLIANCE WITH A COMPUTER IS MORONIC*
Stop it people. Just Stop.
*K.I.S.S.*
You saved me buying a new oven! Thanks For the excellent information!
Hey Ben
I replaced the broil element in my frigidaire but it is stil not heating up. My element had 2 humps lie in this video, i replaced it with one that has 3 humps..would this make a diffrerence?
I did not pick it out. But I love a good puzzle.
I have a 18 year old glass top Frigidaire range, the problem is the oven I have to set the temperature 25 degrees higher than what I need. Which is doable for me, it’s been doing this for a few years. There is no way my husband will check it out he’s 72
Thanks for the great comment. I totally didn't do it in this video, but you can program an offset on it to fix that issue!
We moved into my Grandparent's house that has a Magic Chef 30-inch gas stove, electronic ignition, manual on / off knobs, no electronic digital control panels.
The four burners work, the oven does not.
The appliance tech worked on the oven for over an hour. Replaced the broiler igniter, it did not light up.
The oven igniter did light up but no gas flowing to it.
Still the oven and broiler doesn't flame up.
Tech said the gas valve is bad.
He could not find a replacement gas valve for it.
How can the gas valve be bad when the gas gets to the burners?
Where can we find a replacement gas valve for the oven?
I can take a photo of the appliance spec label if you can use it.
Appreciate any feedback.
He needs to do an amperage test on the ignitor with electricity going to the unit, but not gas.
Often times, the amperage on the ignitor isn't high enough to actually turn the gas valve on. It can glow cherry red, but if it doesn't hit >2.8a, it won't open up. This is a safety feature because it takes a certain level of heat (produced by the electrical current) to allow the gas valve to open up.
I do have videos on this for Frigidaires and GEs on my channel. We've been bitten even by new ignitors being faulty out of the box, only pushing say 2.6a which wouldn't trigger the valve. A new ignitor should be in the 3.0 - 3.3a range which is well above the threshold needed.
the yellow transformer on the board is what goes bad its a bummer that there aren't any places to buy them
Hi Ben I live in Ottawa Ontario and want to thank you for the video 15:35
Freaking awesome video. Got it traced to the control board. Thank you.
Nice! I am so glad it helped!
Problem is that electronics are all Chinese.
Where could I find the control board?
Hey Ben, is there an adjustment on the board to make the set temperature match an oven thermometer?
yes, I have that video being edited to add to the collection!
Excellent Video!
I am having trouble with my Frigidaire FFEF3018LBG electric oven. Sometimes the bake element wont come on at all. I replaced the element and the temperature sensor, but it is still erratic. When it does heat up it could take several hours to cook anything. The broiler and the stove top work fine. I am also not getting any error codes. The panel display I am using looks exactly like the one in this video. I am going to order the controller and the overlay as soon as possible, but I wanted to see if you had any other advice. ☺
Our oven is a Frigidaire model FEF352AWF with 10 buttons, but our buttons are laid out in different positions. The letter/number posts are labeled the same for the 5 main wires. Will the part you listed still work?
Hi Ben, I replaced the baking element and the oven still not heating up
@bensappliancesandjunk
I have the same stove, oven wasn’t working and ended up replacing the control board from the site recommended. Oven now works, but my clock keeps changing time, any idea why or how to fix this?
Thank you for a thorough and informative video. Precisely what I needed without a bunch of fluff. Great content and pace. Thank you.
My Kenmore oven automatically turn on.
It has digital display.
Is it because board gone bad?
Great Job.
Great information.
I've seen many and you are the best. I'm saving you to watch later for reference.
Thank you so much for the video! It was perfect for me, who likes to fix before replacing. Issue ended up being the main board. Frigidaire oven is back in business! I didn't think it would be the board since the stove is only 7 years old. Indeed, it was. Disappointing because i got rid of an old Kenmore stove that worked fine, but my husband wanted new appliances. Kind of wish i had held on to the Kenmore a bit longer. Thanks again!!
If you've had the experience of having an element explode, it's a real show. We had our oven element (Magic Chef) explode and arc. Impressive. My sister in law had a stove top coil explode and blow hot bits around the kitchen.
Super thorough! Thank you so much!! 🙂🙏🏿
Hi Ben my oven is not working no heat if i set is 350 baking it jumps 150 f like no heat what should be rong with thanks for answer me
Good video. I saved for the future.
Thanks!
I can't get the screws out to get to the bottom element. what do you recommend in that situation? also how long should it take for the oven to heat up afterwards?
Great video, very concise explanation, easy to follow. We have a Frigidaire model GLEB30M9FSC wall oven, the oven temperature is low, at 350 degrees the temperature is 25 low, at 450 it’s about 30 degrees low. Replaced the lower element about 6 months ago, element wasn’t heating, fell apart when removing. Went through the calibration procedure, problem persisted after calibration. Any suggestions on how to proceed? If it’s the control board what’s a good source? We are in a very rural area, service people are hard to find.
I'd replace the sensor first
Repairing the board is even cheaper.
I have an Amana gas range that has a glow type of igniter. It is perhaps 15 to 20 years old. The igniter comes on quickly, BUT it then takes the oven approximately 5 minutes to light. Does this seem normal to you? If not, do you have any suggestions or a video that covers this problem? John
Likely a weak ignitor that needs replaced.
What is your go to recommendation for smoothing out/cleaning a flat top like this? Mine is similar but severally scratched. Do you use The Pink Stuff?
I need to do a video on how to properly restore these. It's a bit complex, but you can fully restore them to new shape
Hi Ben my oven is not working no heat if i set is 350 baking it jumps 150 f like no heat what should be rong with thanks for answer me
May be the temp sensor
Great Video. Thank you for sharing. Have a nice weekend
Thank you! You too!
Amazing!!! Thanks Ben!
is there no link to the board replacement?
Should be added soon. I was given a prototype board for the vid assuming that when the video was done, they'd be available but they are running behind for another week or two
I wish the replacement control panel and layover where listed in the description
I was given a prototype for this video. Allegedly it'll be available in a week or two and I'll post it as fast as possible.
@@bensappliancesandjunk no problem. I ended up ordering one of Amazon for around $97. I beleive it is from the fridgidiare store.
I found my way to your channel. You have showed me so much. I did get a stove and dishwasher. Your microwave class was insightful. I’ll hit stop for the rest of my life no more opening that door while running.
I’ll check with you on parts when needed. 😊😊thanks😊😊
I love the video and your guidance has helped me replace the exploded bake element, but now I need the control board. The link doesn't seem to be here; can you please provide so I can support you in obtaining it?
Whats your units model#?
@@bensappliancesandjunk PLEF398DCA
@@bensappliancesandjunk model FFEF3048LSM serial:VF70939852
@@bensappliancesandjunk I'm in this same boat. Trying to decide if it's worth getting the control board or getting a newer appliance as based on the serial number below it's 2017.