I found this video so enlightening. I bought this machine in the 70's and used it a lot then to make simple things for myself and my daughter's for school. Just learned I have been threading it wrong the entire time. Now my16 year old great-granddaughter is wanting to learn to sew. So I have been referring to a lot of video 's to help us get thru a simple McCall's pattern. Thanks so much for this video.
So glad to hear this was helpful for you Mary. FYI, if you don't have it, you can get PDF copies of the user manual online and they often are offered for around $10. It can be SO helpful in learning the various ins and outs of the machine.
Just got into retrobrite ... it’s a technique of restoring yellowed plastic back to near original color. There’s lots out there, but I used oxy clean thickened with guar gum and brushed it on stuff I wanted to de-yellow. Just a tip for machine cases and knobs.
Thanks for sharing this. I've seen lots of machines (Berninas and Vikings in particular) that suffer from the yellowing. Age and heat are not kind to plastics.
Would love to try this, where do I get guar gum? Is it a 50/50 combination, 2 to 3 or just mix until it's thickened? Thanks! I'll appreciate your reply.
I've had this machine for so long and never knew half its capabilities until i watched this. Years of frustration, I will never get back. LOL Thank you
Stretch stitch is fantastic! And you’ll use it. It makes knits very easy, but run in straight settings it’s bombproof. (Test it first, it’s a lot of thread crowding in)
Thanks for the info, I didn't realize this was one of the LAST of the last all metal machines. Singer bowed out early in the race with the 600 Touch & Sew machines (circa late 1960s) and never even had an all metal machine that did the reverse stitches - not even to mention a free-arm. I'd been searching for an all-metal Kenmore free-arm, and finally found this machine at a garage sale - BINGO! It is a good complement to my Kenmore 1774 which is a studly 1.2 amp flat bed machine that takes all the decorative cams and can do chain stitching.
I looking to buy one of this Sears Kenmore all metal made in Japan - as a backup. I recently bought a Featherweigh Singer 1957. I prefer older machines. Good luck with your Sears Kenmore. Blessings
Hi, Thank you for all of the info about this machine. I have the '19141' and have been using it since 1975. I recently had the machine serviced and cleaned, but then moved out of the area. Today I needed to Zig Zag stitch but only get straight stitches no matter what stitch I choose with the stitch collector. I'd love to be able to handle this repair/adjustment myself Help!! :)
I just bought the 158.19412 last week but haven't had time to "play" with it yet. Thank you for this video. I love Kenmore machines; this one is my 4th. Unfortunately it has no manual or accessories but I can get the manual on line and will see about additional feet on line too. I really like you channel and have subscribed.
@@VintageSewingMachineGarage This machine is great! It needed more cleaning than I thought it would, must have been stored in a garage or barn. I had to remove a few of those white bug nest things from a few spots, cleaned it thoroughly then oiled it as according to the manual. The outside has a few marks from usage but it sews like a dream.
I own a Morse model # 7200 But I recently inherited a Sears Kenmore 158.19410. I began searching for my model machine and came across you video. So, I was hoping you would be able point me in the right direction to locate the following items. 1) User Manual 2) Removable attachment (Free arm) 3) Carrying Case.
This appears to be identical to my wife's model 198.1931 except for hers having a cam opening on the top. Sold new in 1975. The purchase receipt is still in the parts box.
Thank you for this post about my Kenmore 158.1941 machine. I have promised 1 of my 2 machines to my daughter and would like your assessment of which is the more valuable machine to keep. The other is a Bernina 1001 and I have used it more in recent years because it is lighter and easier to move from closet to the table where I sew. However, that is just convenience and I can handle the Kenmore. I do not use the extra stiches the Bernina has, and do appreciate the ability to sew with ease through thicker, heavier layers that the Kenmore affords. A Bernina tech has told me the interior machine is all metal except for 1 part in the foot that has never been a problem (for which plastic is an advantage). I would appreciate your assessment, if you feel you can give one from your experience! Thank you, Ginny
Hello Ginny and thank you for asking my opinion. You will surely get a variety of opinions on this but here is mine. If you do a google search for "Bernina 1001 Parts Gear" , you will see a listing for a plastic gear for Berinina models: 1004, 1005, 1006, 1008, 1010, 1011, 1015, 1020, 1030, 1031, 1080, 1090, 1100, 1113, 1120, 1130, 1230, 1260, 1530. While the 1001 model is not listed, images of your machine and the ones listed above bear a strong resemblance which is not surprising given that Bernina and most all machine producers created series of machines based on the same design but with varying features. So, it's my assertion that your machine also has at least one (and likely more than one) plastic gear. It is possible that your Bernina tech was sincere but may be mistaken? As machines age, their plastic gears can get soiled and darkened resembling metal just by seeing them. I have never looked inside a 1001 so I cannot say for sure, but it would be highly unsual for Bernina to make your model with steel gears vs. these others given that they were using 2 plastic/nylon gears as early as the late 50's or early '60s. The good news is that replacement gears are currently available for sale. I had one Bernina (730 Record) that I had to do a gear replacement on. While the actual procedure was not the toughest work I've done on a machine, it took over 3 WEEKS to get the other parts in the machine unstuck/loosened so that I could get to the gear. Labor for gear replacements is high. Not that the asian made replacement gears are THAT expensive, but the labor should can be. Here is a link to the gear I found and the model list. Given how many parts there are and the complex list of models they fit, not all parts sellers are 100 % accurate when they list machine models that a part goes to. Most often, they leave some models out mistakenly since there were so many models or variations of the same model. www.sewingpartsonline.com/cam-gear-bernina-1030-sewing-machine.aspx As to your question re: the Kenmore vs. Bernina, if you use future parts availability as a gauge, I would go with the Kenmore. Also interesting is that your particular Kenmore was Sear's attempt to have their largest Japanese machine source at the time, Marusen, to create a machine that would compete with Bernina and in many ways it does with such features as a dual belt system with reduction pulley; its own foot and accesory system (Super High Shank) and remarkable piercing power at the needle. There are lots of rationale reasons why others might choose the Bernina, but my emphasis has always been on overhauling machines that will continue to be practical and economical to source parts for. Today, you can still purchase Bernina motors. They sell often for more than $150 US and above. Also, while some folks might turn up their noses at a machine that was sold exclusively at Sears, back then, Sears reputation was stellar and their 'Satisfaction Guranteed" return policy was incredible. This infers that the products they sold had to be VERY well made and solid or that gurantee business model would not have worked. Both of the machines you are considering to offer your daughter are wonderful and can make great stitches. For heirloom purchases though, my bet would be that the Kenmore would continue to get used when needed since sourcing parts for vintage Berninas is more time consuming, expensive, and downright discouraging to someone who sits down and wants to to use the machine in the future. For those whose passion for Berninas (understandable) is strong, they are willing to go to great lengths to keep their vintage Berninas in service. Most of my clients place their emphasis on having a reliable machine that they can put to work. Both the Bernina and Kenmore are reliable, but when its time for service, the Kenmore will less of a hassle. My two cents here only. For viewers that have a counter point, please feel free to share.
@@VintageSewingMachineGarage I'm glad to hear your opinion. 😊 I bought a 158 1931 model in January 1969, 2 years after emigrating to Canada from England and knew nothing about Sears then, just went by the sales representatives advice. I'm still using it and it's never been professionally serviced, but I haven't used it much in recent years. It's been a reliable machine for over 50 years. In England they look for vintage Bernina machines when they want heavy duty stitching etc, I understand from my contacts back home. I grew up with Singers as the best to have, and learned on a treadle machine in ye olden days. 😊🍁
@@VintageSewingMachineGarage I'm with you. Both Bernina's and Kenmore's are excellent machines but for Kenmore's, I'd venture to say they're parts are MUCH more available and less expensive as you said. Vintage Kenmore's are like the old Timex commercial - they just keep on ticking..... (if you remember this commercial, you might be like me - older than dirt ; -} sigh!) Kenmores are repairable, easy to use, dependable and like the legendary Singer 201, often surprisingly powerful. I have one that's 67 years old, has a 1.5 amp motor, a chain drive and will sew through 8 layers of denim like it was butter. As such, and provided you use the correct needle and settings, you can sew just about anything from the most delicate organza to canvas and garment-weight leather on most Kenmore's except the newer plastic 385 models made in Taiwan before Sears dropped sewing machines from their lineup. I have friends who swear by their Bernina's. I respect their opinions and their machines, but give me a good old vintage Kenmore any day and I'm happy.
I just bought this exact same model. But it is in a sewing tables. I have a little problem with how it sits. The mount of wood that the machine sits on and when it is raised up the platform sits a few millimeters too low and makes it difficult to take the arm off to make it a free arm. Suggestions to raise it up. The platform has two huge springs it sits on .
I have a couple Kenmore metal sewing machines that I want (need) to get rid of. The first is my own 158.12271, or model 1227 that my mother left to me and I have used for a long time (30 years) and I recently lightly lubed it because it had been breaking threads often but, I don't know enough about it to adjust it properly to top working condition and I can't seem to find anybody around that knows how to do it. All the sewing machine shops I can find either only want to work on new Brother or Singer machines and tell me the mechanical machines are just too hard to fix or want $200+ to bring it up to snuff. The other machine is a Kenmore 158.14100 or model 1410 that I bought at a thrift store for $10 and seemed to work but it turns out someone had been inside it and has put something out of time in the stitch changing machinery trying to fix what seems to only be a sticky zig-zag mechanism. So it is a beautiful, clean and shiny machine but, it does not stitch properly. I believe both machines are easily restorable for someone that knows what they are doing but, I simply can't find instructions on how to set the stitch timing or adjust them properly. I don't want to just throw them away, so I am looking for a good home for them both to anyone who wants them enough to simply pay for the shipping. I would be happy to pack them safely and send them on to you. I truly wish that I knew enough to adjust and time them correctly so they could be bought by someone looking for a good solid vintage machine, but I simply don't have the knowledge or know where to find resources necessary for the job. There are no broken parts in either machine and both have good everything including motors. They are both clean and are missing no covers or parts. These are NOT basket cases. Pictures can be sent to anyone who is interested. The 1227 six-stitch zig-zag machine has: pedal control zig-zag foot instruction book bobbins case (with a crack in the corner but holds the machine and the locks work) the 1410 twelve-stitch zig-zag machine has: pedal control zig-zag foot If you are interested send me a note to itogtrader2@zitog.com
I have a Morse sewing machine Model # 7200, but I'm very happy to say that I've inherited a Sear Kenmore 158.1940 Machine. I was hoping if you can guide me in locating a few items 1)User Manual 2) removable convertible attachment (Freearm) 3) carrying case.
i just got this exact machine all works well i was wondering whenit was new did it have diffrent types of feet with it or is there any for this machine.
This machine is the closest so far to the one I have. I have been searching for a video on how to drop the feed dogs and also looking for cams and how to use them. My machine is the158.16820, 12 stitch model. It didn't come with any accessories or cams I would love to know if you have any ideas about this. Thank you!
Hi Geannie, I'm not an expert but I know a little about Kenmores. I've been using them for many years and I have four of them - all vintage. Your machine is a convertible made around 1977 and I'm pretty sure a high shank. If you remove the plastic housing that converts it to a free arm, you should find a plastic switch underneath it on the right-hand side. That's your feed dog control. Cams are easy to find. Go to ebay and look around for the best deal. The cams for your generation machine are a grayish green color and I think there are some orange colored ones that also will work in your machine as well. I have a 158-1880 (also build in the mid 70's) that uses them. Don't buy any that are a dark color or black. I believe they work only in much older Kenmores. You can also find accessories too - just make sure they are high shank compatible before buying them. If you'd prefer to have new snap-on feet and accessories, you'll find a good selection at www.sewingmachinesplus.com or www.sewingpartsonline.com. I know for a fact that Sewing Machines Plus sells an adapter for older high shank machines which will allow you to use any modern snap-on foot you wish. I have this type of adapter on one of my Kenmores and it works perfectly. If you need a manual, go to www.sewconsult.com where you can buy a pdf copy for $5.95 plus tax. It will be a very clear copy of the original. I hope this helps you. Good Luck!
I found this video so impressive and helpful I bought this model on Ebay and I love it. Thank you very much! I'd like to know if the 158.19802 has plastic parts, which I'm afraid it does since it's newer than this model.
It's my understanding that the Kenmore 158.1914 was the last machine that had all steel mechanicals. This doesn't mean your machine is not worth having or saving. See some of the videos I made under the search term HYBRID sewing machines.
Hello, I am hoping you respond on older vids. I have this exact model. I have spent the past 2 days going through it. Everything has been oiled and cleaned but apparently I am missing something somewhere. It will sew a straight stitch, regular zigzag and ric rac stitch only. I have the original book and have been sewing 50 years so know I am setting the dials correctly stitch settings . Have you run across this issue with these? I have no idea where else to look for the cause of this. The control setting knows are moving freely. Thank you
Hello, I took the bottom off of my machine and having trouble putting it back on. There is a small plastic piece by the bobbin area which I'm having trouble figuring out. Thank you!
Hi Jennifer. If you do a search on my videos under Kenmore series, you should find videos where I show how to remove and reinstall the bottoms of these models.
I just bought a Kenmore 158 10600 at a garage sale. I've allways wanted to learn to sew. I'm retired and now have swome time on my hands. The machine is as new but no instructions. Any thoughts on how to get started with this machine?
Is there another Kenmore model that is just like this one, with a free arm, or maybe a prior year? I currently have a 158.1789280 and it has some plastic parts on it. What do you think of this model? The specialty stitches are not clean. Not sure if the problem can be fixed. I would like to get a machine like this one with all metal parts.
Your model was made after this one and possibly made in Taiwan after Japanese production for Sears ended. Compared with modern plastic machines, yours is no slouch and superior to anything newly made. Your issue with the specialty stitches can and does happen to any machine; even the older ones. This is largely due to those stitches never getting much, if any use. I can be fixed with lots of patience, a little heat, penetrant oils and sewing machine oils.
what is the lever that shows once you remove the plate to expose the arm. it's visible in your video. I have this machine but that lever doesn't move on mine. I assume it opens to the bottom of the machine?
Hi Angel. The lever you refer to I think is a mechanism (Steel with a plastic tab cover) that Sears had moved to various locations over the years. This model has it on the back of the sewing deck just to the right of where the free arm starts. It is round and looks like a cream colored button. You push down on it to release the deck and push again to reinstall the deck. Be sure to engage this button to prevent any damage. You can also find info on this in the User manual for this model. If you don't have the manual, PDF copies are sold online for about $12 or you can sometimes get them for free from Kenmore vintage machine fans on FB.
Hi i have a 158.1786181 Kenmore sewing machine which i purchased at Sears in 1981, mine has a disk section for doing special embroidery stitched. I noticed on your machine the silver pin on top left (side where the needle is) i noticed it's up, mine is down, is it suppose to be down?
That's the pressure button for the pressure the foot puts on the fabric. If it's too high fabric will slip, if it's too low fabric will stick. You press it up and down like a button. I have a slighter older version of this machine but they all work similarly. I assume you're referring to the tall button more to the back of the topas you're facing it.
I have A kenmore model 1357. I’ve had it for 😅ver 40 years! Has never failed me. I’m trying to find various presser feet. I have the feet that originally came with the machine. The feet extensions are not removable, or if they are, I can’t figure out. Would you help me identify feet I can use; is there a number 😅n the feet I should look for? Etc? Thank you so much in advance.
Mine looks almost twins to this one but when you called out the model number it was off by just adding a 2 at the end with mine . I wanna learn to thread it lol could you teach me please:)
I have another question, i have issue with the tension of the thread. I keep adjusting the top nob (adjuster) yet still too tight the thread, what could be the issue. Thank you for your suggestions. Merci.
Hi there just purchased this gem today at a bargain price. I'm very familiar with sewing but all of the settings (which you don't really show) are very confusing to me. It seems to be working but the fabric will not feed. Cannot seem to find just the basic straight stitch. Feed dogs are operating. My model differs slightly from yours. It's the 158 but has the numbers 17800 after it.
Hi LeeAnne. Your model was made circa 1978-early 1980's and so it might have some changes from this one. I do have a current 158.1941 and I like your mentioning the need for a discussion of its features. I should think of making a video on that very topic. Stay tuned
The 17800 has a drop-in bobbin, unlike this one that has a vertical bobbin. It also has a left-homing needle, while the 1941 is center-homing. Hopefully you have figured out your issue by now, but the fabric not feeding might mean your stitch length is set at 0. And for straight stitch make sure the stitch pattern knob is set on the red dot AND the stitch width is at 0.
While cleaning out my garage, I came across my old Kenmore Model 158.19410 sewing machine. It has been in storage for almost 40 years and is in bad shape. It is rusty and the wheel knob and the needle are "frozen" and will not move. Do you have any restoration videos for this model sewing machine? I really enjoyed sewing on this machine and I would like to pass it down to my granddaughter? Thank you.
go to facebook and join the group Vintage Kenmore and Sears Sewing Machines. They have wonderful people who can help guide you to resources for fixing up your old Kenmore machine. By the way, if your granddaughter isn't interested in the machine, it is a very popular model with Kenmore enthusiasts.
Hi Matthew. Your question is actually very timely. The model you reference in your question is what I refer to as a "Hybrid Vintage" sewing machine. I use that term to discern the difference between vintage sewing machines that are all metal in gearing such as the Free Arm you see in my video. The "Hybrid Vintage" machines contain a lot of steel, but are machines that show the first use of SOME plastic parts in crucial areas like gears/linages. If you have not had a chance yet, you might take a look at my video, "Defining What Vintage Really Means". I describe the differences between "Heirloom Quality" which is different than just vintage. As to the model you are asking about, I would need to see it for sure, but I suspect it was made in Taiwan when production was outsourced away from Japan. The more important thing though is that the model you are asking about has some of its working components made of plastic. Now, compared with a modern day new plastic machine, that Kenmore model you ask about is far superior. But, here are a few things to consider. Be extra picky about the condition of the machine and see if you can get access to the inside with a flashlight to inspect the gears. (If they are cracked, I would not purchase it) Also, if you know anything about the prior history of the machine and how it was cared for, (Where and how it was stored), that can take you a long way in gauging whether you should purchase it. How much you pay for the machine and how much time is required to restore/overhaul it are extra important questions to ask with one of these "Hybrids" since they might run a long time or not. In the next few days, I will be posting more videos on this subject and will also make a video on how to inspect one of these since they are less tolerant of abuse. Thank you
Thank you for sharing this video. I have a question, I recently purchased from a pawn shop, a Kenmore 12 stitch sewing machine, a model 158.1355080, made in Taiwan all metal sewing machine with a free arm and detachable table plate I guess you call it but that piece didnt come with my machine (know where I can inquire to get one by chance?) Anyways....problem I ran into few hours after sewing on it is a stuck hand wheel. Do you have a video on remedying a problem as that? I am hoping you can help. I am unable to even locate an owners manual for it 😥 any idea on what year it came out? I know I'm bound to be older than it lol I turn 50 this year, so I am sure it had to have been made available after 1970 lol
What is the compatible zigzag presser foot for this model? I have the same one but I don't have the zigzag presser foot. I ordered online but it doesn't fit. The one that I ordered is too short.
You may have purchased a low shank foot for a high shank machine. Check with where you bought it. Perhaps they'll allow you to swap it for a high shank version.
When you say 'pedal charger', are you referring to the foot pedal/speed control for the machine? If so, you can find them on Ebay, Etsy, and other sites that sell vintage parts. You can also get new generic pedals (must have minimum of a 1.2 amp rating). As long as the cord plug is correct, the generic pedals will work. FYI, Kenmore sold so many machines, and so lots of vintage pedals exist out there. I've done recent videos showing them and how to disassemble them as well.
I have a Kenmore 10 stitch made in Taiwan. It’s making a screeching noise on the right side when I sew. Any suggestions? It’s extremely loud to the point where I can’t sew. Belts on the right side look fine.
My Kenmore sewing machine is model 158.13360, serial 0001755. The inside and outside appear to be all metal. It's been a very dependable machine. Could this be one of the last great ones you mentioned? What was the exact year that this machine was produced? Somewhere in the early 70's (I'm guessing.)
Yes Carol, that is a strong, solid machine. It was made towards the end of the all metal era. Main thing to be mindful on those is the top stitch selector dial that is mounted on top of the machine. Be gentle with it as they can break (like plastic often will). The rest of the machine should be all metal.
Thanks for the reply! Glad to know I have one of the good old machines. I will be gentle with that dial. I'm very mechanical and always treat my tools with care.
There are so many different types of needles to choose for this machine, I bought some only to find out I bought ones without the flat shank. I know about the sizes and type of tips, RP and SP and different materials used for the needles. It would help me if anyone could send me info about ordering the proper needles so I don't order more of the wrong types again. I see some with the flat shank and style I want, is this all I need for these to work properly in this type of machine?
I have a Kenmore that is a back load top thread loads from the back of the swinging arm in the back I'm not too sure on how to thread it's a 158 1784 183 I don't know what year did Sears Roebuck and co. made in Japan need help
more specifically, could you recommend a buttonhole attachment kit model that fits this model? i have one, i love it, but i can't seem to find the exact buttonhole attachment models recommended in the original handbook.
The only attachments that would fit are going to be original Kenmore versions, but they changed over the years so I would search online with your model number. Try Ebay, Etsy, and Bonanza.com
I have 2 Kenmore sewing machines from the 1970's. One bought used with no manual. Model 158 17600. I learned much about the free arm but have 2 questions. You mentioned email but I found no email address for you. Please help.
Hello Shana. Yes, there is a way to bring back its funciton. The key is to get to the mechanism behind the button. Most machines that I work on have this feature stuck when I get them because most were never used from the day they were sold. If you can use some sewing machine and heat from a hair dryer as a backup to the oil, (you might just try the oil first), these will usually free up. Take your time and use some gentle coaxing and it should start working again. These machines are quite forgiving as long as you don't rush or use too much force too soon.
I just got this as my first machine. It seems the pressure foot is stuck. The switch on the back will move up and down but pressure foot dont move with it. HELP?!😭
I’m just watching the video and see your question is a couple of years old. It seems like maybe there’s old gunk keeping the pressure bar from going up and down. Open the top and so some cleaning and oiling around it.
Well, there are 'some' Kenmores made in Taiwan that begin to fall into the category I refer to as "Hybrid Machines" since they have a few mechanical parts that were now made from plastic instead of steel. However, many of the Taiwan made machines were great, tough machines. Just be extra careful when pushing them hard.
I have this exact machine...I got it in I think 1975 for a gift from my husband and because I love to sew...he bought me the cabinet that went with it I do not think I got a carrying case I am 68 and get sometimers...haha....my question is..my tension back ring behind the spring is loose and doesn`t work right..my reverse barely works as all the thread bunches up..I have all the original books, hardware and all the button hole gadgets that I never used but it doesn`t say how to fix what I am having a problems with HELP. the timing is off and I can`t get it fixed.. ...it is clean and from I can see its free of dust..looks brand new and I love it but it can even sew blue jean material or satin it clogs ALL the time..its frustrating, I did take it in for servicing a few years back but the guy knew nothing about it and refused to take it in...your video was great and I enjoyed it, any suggestions on what I can do or if you can do a video on how to fix the tension ...your help would be greatly appreciated...I am from Toronto Canada and no one here knows how to fix my machine....your the best I have seen....
There is a lever by the presser bar and foot that you tilt and this should release the foot. Refer to the user's manual if you have one. If not, they are available online for normally no more than $10. The next time I have one of these machines, I should make a video on how these work. The manual will be your best bet in the meantime.
If you do a search online, you can find a PDF of the manual to this machine and many other machines. Some of the places on the web offer a free file and others charge, but not very much. Having the manual can be super helpful; especially when you are new to the machine.
Raise the needle bar to its highest. The part that holds the needle has a thumb screw. Loosen the thumb screw just enough to remove the old needle then insert a new needle making sure the flat side faces the bar and goes as high as you can.
Like most Kenmores from that era, I am a huge fan of their piercing power and reliability. Be extra careful with that model series as one of the small switches is very prone to breaking. The small switch to the right of the dials.
Hi Linda. I"m not aware of any new reproductions of these as they were exclusive to just some of Sear's machines. But you can purchase the vintage ones online at places like Ebay, Etsy, and Bonanza. There "might" be an adaptor for these as there is for old style Bernina feet, but I'm not 100 % sure on that so you might do a search for those. Your best bet is likely online vintage.
Hello. Although I have not tried to, if the lever for lowing your feed dogs is functional, you should be able to. However, most of these machines were set up for Super High Shank feet. I am not aware whether they produced and sold Free Motion versions of those feet although there may be an adapter available.
@@VintageSewingMachineGarage Thanks for getting back to me! Any thoughts on how to free motion quilt with my old Kenmore? I have one to stitch in the ditch and it works very well. Now want to expand and do some free motion. Do you know if they had a darning attachment?
Is this happening at the beginning of a seam? Is your thread nesting? If so, are you holding the threads behind the presser foot until you've stitched an inch or so down your seam? Many machines will "suck" thread ends into the machine at the beginning of a seam and create a nasty birds nest. If this is the case, just hold those threads behind the presser foot when beginning to sew. Alternatively, make a "leader" from a small piece of scrap folded over 2 or 3 times. It needn't be more than an inch square. Put this piece under your presser foot and sew from one end of it to the other, then stop and lift the presser foot. Next put your good fabric under the presser foot and begin sewing your seam, back-tacking as you would normally. Key to this is that you VERY, VERY gently pull your leader away from behind the presser foot as you begin sewing the seam. And I mean GENTLY! As soon as the machine begins moving the fabric, let go. This will prevent thread jams and get your fabric moving. Just snip it off when you're done your seam. You might also need to check your thread tension and your presser foot pressure. Good luck.
@@PibbleMom297 Thanks for the tip. I've had an older version of the Kenmore 158 since 1969 and you always have to hold the threads behind the foot when starting sewing as it has always from the beginning sucked the lower thread back into the bobbin. It's not a killer fault but it does slow you down a bit if you forget and get the birds nest. I always thought I must have some setting in the wrong position. I never had to do the end holding with other machines I'd used before my Kenmore. I'd love to know how to stop it doing that, after watching sewing videos of folks who never have to do it as they sew.
@@Beruthiel45 You are most welcome! I'm no expert so I have no idea how to help you not need to pull threads back and I sincerely doubt your settings are incorrect as you obviously are very experienced at sewing. Don't hold me to this, but I think it might depend a lot on the individual machine - vintage versus new and/or model type. I have two modern electronic Brother machines that don't require the threads pulled back. They each have a front load drop-in bobbin. My all-mechanical vintage Kenmores however (I have a collection as I LOVE vintage "Kennies") all have side-load or front-load vertical mounted bobbins and on those I have to pull about 3 inches of both threads back before sewing. Maybe that's the difference? And I've never though about it before, but I think I'll start watching more video's myself to see if the users are working on modern or vintage machines. This could prove quite interesting. Thanks for the conversation; there's no end to what we can learn by sharing ideas. It's a win for all!
Is this the machine that was frozen with grease!? I watched 13 videos of you spraying wd40 to loosen everything up The last video showed the straight stitch only working
+Mary Welu, the 158.19140 model was made around 1975, 19141 in 1975-76, and 19142 was made around 1976-77. This doesn't have all years for all models, but is a fairly comprehensive list for various models and years. www.scribd.com/doc/67656202/Sears-Sewing-Machine-Model-Production-Dates-Catalog
I have a 158 1931 and bought it new at a Sears store in January 1969. Still works and have all the parts and tools and manual in English and French, as I'm in Canada. 🍁 Might help with the dating of yours knowing my numbers?
Hello I see no email......I have issues with my Kenmore 158-17861-80 I believe this is the year the book only showed the model number then I was told another numbers which are 158 and 80. The issues I have is the tensor I took the screw out and all come down I'm not sure if I assembled correctly if you please show me how to do it I will be very happy thank you so much for your time and help.
I am the third generation to use this machine and I wonder if you could direct me to where I could see a video of how to use the buttonhole attachment for it?
Sharon George if you have not got help for your buttonhole attachment, I could send you pictures of the process. I not sure how to get a hold of me I have turned on my notice and I'll save this and check. Cheers
Sharon George I forgot to tell you. I had to send away for a motor belt for my machine. My address is christinebean96@gmail.com you can give me your address if you still need it walk you through button hole Monday. My belt is do today. I'm not sure exactly how to do that maybe you can walk me through that🤔
I found this video so enlightening. I bought this machine in the 70's and used it a lot then to make simple things for myself and my daughter's for school. Just learned I have been threading it wrong the entire time. Now my16 year old great-granddaughter is wanting to learn to sew. So I have been referring to a lot of video 's to help us get thru a simple McCall's pattern. Thanks so much for this video.
So glad to hear this was helpful for you Mary. FYI, if you don't have it, you can get PDF copies of the user manual online and they often are offered for around $10. It can be SO helpful in learning the various ins and outs of the machine.
Just got into retrobrite ... it’s a technique of restoring yellowed plastic back to near original color. There’s lots out there, but I used oxy clean thickened with guar gum and brushed it on stuff I wanted to de-yellow. Just a tip for machine cases and knobs.
Thanks for sharing this. I've seen lots of machines (Berninas and Vikings in particular) that suffer from the yellowing. Age and heat are not kind to plastics.
Would love to try this, where do I get guar gum? Is it a 50/50 combination, 2 to 3 or just mix until it's thickened? Thanks! I'll appreciate your reply.
I found a 158 19461.😍 Thank you for this info. I had no idea how to thread it at all. Thrift store finds are the best!!!!
You are so right! No computerized parts to fail. Nothing like the vintage Kenmores. I love my 158-1345 ...
I've had this machine for so long and never knew half its capabilities until i watched this. Years of frustration, I will never get back. LOL Thank you
Stretch stitch is fantastic! And you’ll use it. It makes knits very easy, but run in straight settings it’s bombproof. (Test it first, it’s a lot of thread crowding in)
Thanks for the info, I didn't realize this was one of the LAST of the last all metal machines. Singer bowed out early in the race with the 600 Touch & Sew machines (circa late 1960s) and never even had an all metal machine that did the reverse stitches - not even to mention a free-arm. I'd been searching for an all-metal Kenmore free-arm, and finally found this machine at a garage sale - BINGO! It is a good complement to my Kenmore 1774 which is a studly 1.2 amp flat bed machine that takes all the decorative cams and can do chain stitching.
I looking to buy one of this Sears Kenmore all metal made in Japan - as a backup. I recently bought a Featherweigh Singer 1957. I prefer older machines. Good luck with your Sears Kenmore. Blessings
This was interesting but I needed to see the knobs you were changing to compare to the stitches.
This was my first sewing machine from the 70’s .i have a computerized machine but I still like to use this one.
I bought this machine new. Still use for all my sewing projects.
I have my grandmothers that's identical to this one. All metal is right. Trying to get it running for my wife now.
Just found one on the curbside that I am restoring works 100%
wow you got it to work after all that hard work. beautiful machine
Hi, Thank you for all of the info about this machine. I have the '19141' and have been using it since 1975. I recently had the machine serviced and cleaned, but then moved out of the area. Today I needed to Zig Zag stitch but only get straight stitches no matter what stitch I choose with the stitch collector. I'd love to be able to handle this repair/adjustment myself Help!! :)
I just bought the 158.19412 last week but haven't had time to "play" with it yet. Thank you for this video. I love Kenmore machines; this one is my 4th. Unfortunately it has no manual or accessories but I can get the manual on line and will see about additional feet on line too. I really like you channel and have subscribed.
Hope you enjoy it!
@@VintageSewingMachineGarage This machine is great! It needed more cleaning than I thought it would, must have been stored in a garage or barn. I had to remove a few of those white bug nest things from a few spots, cleaned it thoroughly then oiled it as according to the manual. The outside has a few marks from usage but it sews like a dream.
I own a Morse model # 7200 But I recently inherited a Sears Kenmore 158.19410. I began searching for my model machine and came across you video. So, I was hoping you would be able point me in the right direction to locate the following items.
1) User Manual
2) Removable attachment (Free arm)
3) Carrying Case.
Eek I just found a 1641 never used! Thank you for this video!
Glad I could help!
glad for your video. I just got one of these for free! it sews wonderfully
Wonderful!
This appears to be identical to my wife's model 198.1931 except for hers having a cam opening on the top. Sold new in 1975. The purchase receipt is still in the parts box.
Hello and thanks for sharing. It would be curious to know what it sold for in 1975. I wonder what that would amount to today?
@@VintageSewingMachineGarage it sold for about 500$
.wow i got vintage kenmore 1212180 too.and its still working.from philippines.
Thank you for this post about my Kenmore 158.1941 machine. I have promised 1 of my 2 machines to my daughter and would like your assessment of which is the more valuable machine to keep. The other is a Bernina 1001 and I have used it more in recent years because it is lighter and easier to move from closet to the table where I sew. However, that is just convenience and I can handle the Kenmore. I do not use the extra stiches the Bernina has, and do appreciate the ability to sew with ease through thicker, heavier layers that the Kenmore affords. A Bernina tech has told me the interior machine is all metal except for 1 part in the foot that has never been a problem (for which plastic is an advantage). I would appreciate your assessment, if you feel you can give one from your experience!
Thank you,
Ginny
Hello Ginny and thank you for asking my opinion. You will surely get a variety of opinions on this but here is mine. If you do a google search for "Bernina 1001 Parts Gear" , you will see a listing for a plastic gear for Berinina models: 1004, 1005, 1006, 1008, 1010, 1011, 1015, 1020, 1030, 1031, 1080, 1090, 1100, 1113, 1120, 1130, 1230, 1260, 1530. While the 1001 model is not listed, images of your machine and the ones listed above bear a strong resemblance which is not surprising given that Bernina and most all machine producers created series of machines based on the same design but with varying features. So, it's my assertion that your machine also has at least one (and likely more than one) plastic gear. It is possible that your Bernina tech was sincere but may be mistaken? As machines age, their plastic gears can get soiled and darkened resembling metal just by seeing them. I have never looked inside a 1001 so I cannot say for sure, but it would be highly unsual for Bernina to make your model with steel gears vs. these others given that they were using 2 plastic/nylon gears as early as the late 50's or early '60s. The good news is that replacement gears are currently available for sale. I had one Bernina (730 Record) that I had to do a gear replacement on. While the actual procedure was not the toughest work I've done on a machine, it took over 3 WEEKS to get the other parts in the machine unstuck/loosened so that I could get to the gear. Labor for gear replacements is high. Not that the asian made replacement gears are THAT expensive, but the labor should can be. Here is a link to the gear I found and the model list. Given how many parts there are and the complex list of models they fit, not all parts sellers are 100 % accurate when they list machine models that a part goes to. Most often, they leave some models out mistakenly since there were so many models or variations of the same model. www.sewingpartsonline.com/cam-gear-bernina-1030-sewing-machine.aspx
As to your question re: the Kenmore vs. Bernina, if you use future parts availability as a gauge, I would go with the Kenmore. Also interesting is that your particular Kenmore was Sear's attempt to have their largest Japanese machine source at the time, Marusen, to create a machine that would compete with Bernina and in many ways it does with such features as a dual belt system with reduction pulley; its own foot and accesory system (Super High Shank) and remarkable piercing power at the needle. There are lots of rationale reasons why others might choose the Bernina, but my emphasis has always been on overhauling machines that will continue to be practical and economical to source parts for. Today, you can still purchase Bernina motors. They sell often for more than $150 US and above. Also, while some folks might turn up their noses at a machine that was sold exclusively at Sears, back then, Sears reputation was stellar and their 'Satisfaction Guranteed" return policy was incredible. This infers that the products they sold had to be VERY well made and solid or that gurantee business model would not have worked. Both of the machines you are considering to offer your daughter are wonderful and can make great stitches. For heirloom purchases though, my bet would be that the Kenmore would continue to get used when needed since sourcing parts for vintage Berninas is more time consuming, expensive, and downright discouraging to someone who sits down and wants to to use the machine in the future. For those whose passion for Berninas (understandable) is strong, they are willing to go to great lengths to keep their vintage Berninas in service. Most of my clients place their emphasis on having a reliable machine that they can put to work. Both the Bernina and Kenmore are reliable, but when its time for service, the Kenmore will less of a hassle. My two cents here only. For viewers that have a counter point, please feel free to share.
@@VintageSewingMachineGarage I'm glad to hear your opinion. 😊 I bought a 158 1931 model in January 1969, 2 years after emigrating to Canada from England and knew nothing about Sears then, just went by the sales representatives advice. I'm still using it and it's never been professionally serviced, but I haven't used it much in recent years. It's been a reliable machine for over 50 years. In England they look for vintage Bernina machines when they want heavy duty stitching etc, I understand from my contacts back home. I grew up with Singers as the best to have, and learned on a treadle machine in ye olden days. 😊🍁
@@VintageSewingMachineGarage I'm with you. Both Bernina's and Kenmore's are excellent machines but for Kenmore's, I'd venture to say they're parts are MUCH more available and less expensive as you said. Vintage Kenmore's are like the old Timex commercial - they just keep on ticking..... (if you remember this commercial, you might be like me - older than dirt ; -} sigh!) Kenmores are repairable, easy to use, dependable and like the legendary Singer 201, often surprisingly powerful. I have one that's 67 years old, has a 1.5 amp motor, a chain drive and will sew through 8 layers of denim like it was butter. As such, and provided you use the correct needle and settings, you can sew just about anything from the most delicate organza to canvas and garment-weight leather on most Kenmore's except the newer plastic 385 models made in Taiwan before Sears dropped sewing machines from their lineup. I have friends who swear by their Bernina's. I respect their opinions and their machines, but give me a good old vintage Kenmore any day and I'm happy.
I just bought this exact same model. But it is in a sewing tables. I have a little problem with how it sits. The mount of wood that the machine sits on and when it is raised up the platform sits a few millimeters too low and makes it difficult to take the arm off to make it a free arm. Suggestions to raise it up. The platform has two huge springs it sits on .
I have a couple Kenmore metal sewing machines that I want (need) to get rid of.
The first is my own 158.12271, or model 1227 that my mother left to me and I have used for a long time (30 years) and I recently lightly lubed it because it had been breaking threads often but, I don't know enough about it to adjust it properly to top working condition and I can't seem to find anybody around that knows how to do it. All the sewing machine shops I can find either only want to work on new Brother or Singer machines and tell me the mechanical machines are just too hard to fix or want $200+ to bring it up to snuff.
The other machine is a Kenmore 158.14100 or model 1410 that I bought at a thrift store for $10 and seemed to work but it turns out someone had been inside it and has put something out of time in the stitch changing machinery trying to fix what seems to only be a sticky zig-zag mechanism. So it is a beautiful, clean and shiny machine but, it does not stitch properly.
I believe both machines are easily restorable for someone that knows what they are doing but, I simply can't find instructions on how to set the stitch timing or adjust them properly. I don't want to just throw them away, so I am looking for a good home for them both to anyone who wants them enough to simply pay for the shipping. I would be happy to pack them safely and send them on to you.
I truly wish that I knew enough to adjust and time them correctly so they could be bought by someone looking for a good solid vintage machine, but I simply don't have the knowledge or know where to find resources necessary for the job.
There are no broken parts in either machine and both have good everything including motors. They are both clean and are missing no covers or parts. These are NOT basket cases. Pictures can be sent to anyone who is interested.
The 1227 six-stitch zig-zag machine has:
pedal control
zig-zag foot
instruction book
bobbins
case (with a crack in the corner but holds the machine and the locks work)
the 1410 twelve-stitch zig-zag machine has:
pedal control
zig-zag foot
If you are interested send me a note to
itogtrader2@zitog.com
A Singer 320K would fit the bill if you can find one. It can be upgraded with a different hook/shuttle and easily use 15x1 needles.
I bought mine at a Goodwill for 20 bucks in prestige condition. Just needed some oil and a new tension coil.
Very nice!
I have a Morse sewing machine Model # 7200, but I'm very happy to say that I've inherited a Sear Kenmore 158.1940 Machine. I was hoping if you can guide me in locating a few items 1)User Manual 2) removable convertible attachment (Freearm) 3) carrying case.
i just got this exact machine all works well i was wondering whenit was new did it have diffrent types of feet with it or is there any for this machine.
This machine is the closest so far to the one I have. I have been searching for a video on how to drop the feed dogs and also looking for cams and how to use them. My machine is the158.16820, 12 stitch model. It didn't come with any accessories or cams I would love to know if you have any ideas about this. Thank you!
Hi Geannie, I'm not an expert but I know a little about Kenmores. I've been using them for many years and I have four of them - all vintage.
Your machine is a convertible made around 1977 and I'm pretty sure a high shank. If you remove the plastic housing that converts it to a free arm, you should find a plastic switch underneath it on the right-hand side. That's your feed dog control.
Cams are easy to find. Go to ebay and look around for the best deal. The cams for your generation machine are a grayish green color and I think there are some orange colored ones that also will work in your machine as well. I have a 158-1880 (also build in the mid 70's) that uses them. Don't buy any that are a dark color or black. I believe they work only in much older Kenmores. You can also find accessories too - just make sure they are high shank compatible before buying them. If you'd prefer to have new snap-on feet and accessories, you'll find a good selection at www.sewingmachinesplus.com or www.sewingpartsonline.com. I know for a fact that Sewing Machines Plus sells an adapter for older high shank machines which will allow you to use any modern snap-on foot you wish. I have this type of adapter on one of my Kenmores and it works perfectly. If you need a manual, go to www.sewconsult.com where you can buy a pdf copy for $5.95 plus tax. It will be a very clear copy of the original. I hope this helps you. Good Luck!
I found this video so impressive and helpful I bought this model on Ebay and I love it. Thank you very much! I'd like to know if the 158.19802 has plastic parts, which I'm afraid it does since it's newer than this model.
It's my understanding that the Kenmore 158.1914 was the last machine that had all steel mechanicals. This doesn't mean your machine is not worth having or saving. See some of the videos I made under the search term HYBRID sewing machines.
@@VintageSewingMachineGarage I will thank you for the suggestion.
My machine model is 158.16600 .. I absolutely luv it.
I am looking at this machine to buy for my granddaughter. Can you tell me if it is all metal?
Hello, I am hoping you respond on older vids. I have this exact model. I have spent the past 2 days going through it. Everything has been oiled and cleaned but apparently I am missing something somewhere. It will sew a straight stitch, regular zigzag and ric rac stitch only. I have the original book and have been sewing 50 years so know I am setting the dials correctly stitch settings . Have you run across this issue with these? I have no idea where else to look for the cause of this. The control setting knows are moving freely. Thank you
Thank you I have one of these!
Hello, I took the bottom off of my machine and having trouble putting it back on. There is a small plastic piece by the bobbin area which I'm having trouble figuring out. Thank you!
Hi Jennifer. If you do a search on my videos under Kenmore series, you should find videos where I show how to remove and reinstall the bottoms of these models.
I just bought a Kenmore 158 10600 at a garage sale. I've allways wanted to learn to sew. I'm retired and now have swome time on my hands. The machine is as new but no instructions. Any thoughts on how to get started with this machine?
I liked the video but could not see the dials for the zig-zag stitch
Can you show me in what order does the thread tension go back in. I removed mine and everything jumped out.
Is there another Kenmore model that is just like this one, with a free arm, or maybe a prior year?
I currently have a 158.1789280 and it has some plastic parts on it. What do you think of this model?
The specialty stitches are not clean. Not sure if the problem can be fixed. I would like to get a machine like this one with all metal parts.
Your model was made after this one and possibly made in Taiwan after Japanese production for Sears ended. Compared with modern plastic machines, yours is no slouch and superior to anything newly made. Your issue with the specialty stitches can and does happen to any machine; even the older ones. This is largely due to those stitches never getting much, if any use. I can be fixed with lots of patience, a little heat, penetrant oils and sewing machine oils.
Hi there. I just found one of these at a garage sale and snagged it up. I need some help. How do I contact you sir?
I have one just like that and I love it!!
what is the lever that shows once you remove the plate to expose the arm. it's visible in your video. I have this machine but that lever doesn't move on mine. I assume it opens to the bottom of the machine?
Hi Angel. The lever you refer to I think is a mechanism (Steel with a plastic tab cover) that Sears had moved to various locations over the years. This model has it on the back of the sewing deck just to the right of where the free arm starts. It is round and looks like a cream colored button. You push down on it to release the deck and push again to reinstall the deck. Be sure to engage this button to prevent any damage. You can also find info on this in the User manual for this model. If you don't have the manual, PDF copies are sold online for about $12 or you can sometimes get them for free from Kenmore vintage machine fans on FB.
Hi i have a 158.1786181 Kenmore sewing machine which i purchased at Sears in 1981, mine has a disk section for doing special embroidery stitched. I noticed on your machine the silver pin on top left (side where the needle is) i noticed it's up, mine is down, is it suppose to be down?
That's the pressure button for the pressure the foot puts on the fabric. If it's too high fabric will slip, if it's too low fabric will stick. You press it up and down like a button. I have a slighter older version of this machine but they all work similarly. I assume you're referring to the tall button more to the back of the topas you're facing it.
Hi nice video BTW I'm getting a knocking sound how to fix it
What price range should we expect to pay for this model?
I have A kenmore model 1357. I’ve had it for 😅ver 40 years! Has never failed me.
I’m trying to find various presser feet. I have the feet that originally came with the machine. The feet extensions are not removable, or if they are, I can’t figure out.
Would you help me identify feet I can use; is there a number 😅n the feet I should look for? Etc?
Thank you so much in advance.
I have the same model but that button is jammed for the free arm mine is on the top can I put oil to pop it out?
Mine looks almost twins to this one but when you called out the model number it was off by just adding a 2 at the end with mine . I wanna learn to thread it lol could you teach me please:)
I have another question, i have issue with the tension of the thread. I keep adjusting the top nob (adjuster) yet still too tight the thread, what could be the issue. Thank you for your suggestions. Merci.
Hi there just purchased this gem today at a bargain price. I'm very familiar with sewing but all of the settings (which you don't really show) are very confusing to me. It seems to be working but the fabric will not feed. Cannot seem to find just the basic straight stitch. Feed dogs are operating. My model differs slightly from yours. It's the 158 but has the numbers 17800 after it.
Hi LeeAnne. Your model was made circa 1978-early 1980's and so it might have some changes from this one. I do have a current 158.1941 and I like your mentioning the need for a discussion of its features. I should think of making a video on that very topic. Stay tuned
The 17800 has a drop-in bobbin, unlike this one that has a vertical bobbin. It also has a left-homing needle, while the 1941 is center-homing. Hopefully you have figured out your issue by now, but the fabric not feeding might mean your stitch length is set at 0. And for straight stitch make sure the stitch pattern knob is set on the red dot AND the stitch width is at 0.
It would be nice see how you turn the dials,all I see is your table
I have this same machine. I cannot get the pressure regulator to budge. Any suggestions?
Need to release rewind on 15819410
I've got a Kenmore 15816800 recently. It´s been hard to find information about this model. Can you help me ?Please.
While cleaning out my garage, I came across my old Kenmore Model 158.19410 sewing machine. It has been in storage for almost 40 years and is in bad shape. It is rusty and the wheel knob and the needle are "frozen" and will not move. Do you have any restoration videos for this model sewing machine? I really enjoyed sewing on this machine and I would like to pass it down to my granddaughter? Thank you.
go to facebook and join the group Vintage Kenmore and Sears Sewing Machines. They have wonderful people who can help guide you to resources for fixing up your old Kenmore machine. By the way, if your granddaughter isn't interested in the machine, it is a very popular model with Kenmore enthusiasts.
What can you tell me about a Kenmore Model 158.1355080? All metal gears? How is it different from this model? Opinions/ Worth buying? Thank you!
Hi Matthew. Your question is actually very timely. The model you reference in your question is what I refer to as a "Hybrid Vintage" sewing machine. I use that term to discern the difference between vintage sewing machines that are all metal in gearing such as the Free Arm you see in my video. The "Hybrid Vintage" machines contain a lot of steel, but are machines that show the first use of SOME plastic parts in crucial areas like gears/linages. If you have not had a chance yet, you might take a look at my video, "Defining What Vintage Really Means". I describe the differences between "Heirloom Quality" which is different than just vintage. As to the model you are asking about, I would need to see it for sure, but I suspect it was made in Taiwan when production was outsourced away from Japan. The more important thing though is that the model you are asking about has some of its working components made of plastic. Now, compared with a modern day new plastic machine, that Kenmore model you ask about is far superior. But, here are a few things to consider. Be extra picky about the condition of the machine and see if you can get access to the inside with a flashlight to inspect the gears. (If they are cracked, I would not purchase it) Also, if you know anything about the prior history of the machine and how it was cared for, (Where and how it was stored), that can take you a long way in gauging whether you should purchase it. How much you pay for the machine and how much time is required to restore/overhaul it are extra important questions to ask with one of these "Hybrids" since they might run a long time or not. In the next few days, I will be posting more videos on this subject and will also make a video on how to inspect one of these since they are less tolerant of abuse. Thank you
@@VintageSewingMachineGarage Thank you! It is on the local internet ads for $50 obo. I may pass and keep looking for an all steel gear one.
Thank you for sharing this video.
I have a question, I recently purchased from a pawn shop, a Kenmore 12 stitch sewing machine, a model 158.1355080, made in Taiwan all metal sewing machine with a free arm and detachable table plate I guess you call it but that piece didnt come with my machine (know where I can inquire to get one by chance?) Anyways....problem I ran into few hours after sewing on it is a stuck hand wheel. Do you have a video on remedying a problem as that? I am hoping you can help. I am unable to even locate an owners manual for it 😥 any idea on what year it came out? I know I'm bound to be older than it lol I turn 50 this year, so I am sure it had to have been made available after 1970 lol
Is there a difference between the 158-1941 and the 158-1940?
What is the compatible zigzag presser foot for this model? I have the same one but I don't have the zigzag presser foot. I ordered online but it doesn't fit. The one that I ordered is too short.
You may have purchased a low shank foot for a high shank machine. Check with where you bought it. Perhaps they'll allow you to swap it for a high shank version.
Please, where can I get the pedal charger for the Kenmore machine? Please help
When you say 'pedal charger', are you referring to the foot pedal/speed control for the machine? If so, you can find them on Ebay, Etsy, and other sites that sell vintage parts. You can also get new generic pedals (must have minimum of a 1.2 amp rating). As long as the cord plug is correct, the generic pedals will work. FYI, Kenmore sold so many machines, and so lots of vintage pedals exist out there. I've done recent videos showing them and how to disassemble them as well.
I have a Kenmore 10 stitch made in Taiwan. It’s making a screeching noise on the right side when I sew. Any suggestions? It’s extremely loud to the point where I can’t sew. Belts on the right side look fine.
I oiled machine real good when I bought it used at Goodwill and it never screeches now. Perfect machine! Love it!
My Kenmore sewing machine is model 158.13360, serial 0001755. The inside and outside appear to be all metal. It's been a very dependable machine. Could this be one of the last great ones you mentioned? What was the exact year that this machine was produced? Somewhere in the early 70's (I'm guessing.)
Yes Carol, that is a strong, solid machine. It was made towards the end of the all metal era. Main thing to be mindful on those is the top stitch selector dial that is mounted on top of the machine. Be gentle with it as they can break (like plastic often will). The rest of the machine should be all metal.
Thanks for the reply! Glad to know I have one of the good old machines. I will be gentle with that dial. I'm very mechanical and always treat my tools with care.
There are so many different types of needles to choose for this machine, I bought some only to find out I bought ones without the flat shank. I know about the sizes and type of tips, RP and SP and different materials used for the needles. It would help me if anyone could send me info about ordering the proper needles so I don't order more of the wrong types again. I see some with the flat shank and style I want, is this all I need for these to work properly in this type of machine?
I have a Kenmore that is a back load top thread loads from the back of the swinging arm in the back I'm not too sure on how to thread it's a 158 1784 183 I don't know what year did Sears Roebuck and co. made in Japan need help
What kind of sliding plate can I use for free motion quilting for kenmore sewing machine 158.13450
I'm unaware of sliding plates for this machine. Lowering the feed dogs should allow for free motion work.
do these have a buttonhole attachment kit that fit?
more specifically, could you recommend a buttonhole attachment kit model that fits this model? i have one, i love it, but i can't seem to find the exact buttonhole attachment models recommended in the original handbook.
The only attachments that would fit are going to be original Kenmore versions, but they changed over the years so I would search online with your model number. Try Ebay, Etsy, and Bonanza.com
vintage sewing machine channel I have an Identical machine I got fro. a Locker I bouchgt. what is it worth
I have 2 Kenmore sewing machines from the 1970's. One bought used with no manual. Model 158 17600. I learned much about the free arm but have 2 questions. You mentioned email but I found no email address for you. Please help.
Hello I have a question about a 158.18030 I recently acquired... the button that lowers the feed dogs is stuck. Any ideas?
Hello Shana. Yes, there is a way to bring back its funciton. The key is to get to the mechanism behind the button. Most machines that I work on have this feature stuck when I get them because most were never used from the day they were sold. If you can use some sewing machine and heat from a hair dryer as a backup to the oil, (you might just try the oil first), these will usually free up. Take your time and use some gentle coaxing and it should start working again. These machines are quite forgiving as long as you don't rush or use too much force too soon.
@@VintageSewingMachineGarage Great, thank you so much. I will try that!
there's any way that you can find to buy
I just got this as my first machine. It seems the pressure foot is stuck. The switch on the back will move up and down but pressure foot dont move with it. HELP?!😭
I’m just watching the video and see your question is a couple of years old. It seems like maybe there’s old gunk keeping the pressure bar from going up and down. Open the top and so some cleaning and oiling around it.
Is any difference between this one two kenmore 158 13450 make in taiwaian?
Well, there are 'some' Kenmores made in Taiwan that begin to fall into the category I refer to as "Hybrid Machines" since they have a few mechanical parts that were now made from plastic instead of steel. However, many of the Taiwan made machines were great, tough machines. Just be extra careful when pushing them hard.
I have this exact machine...I got it in I think 1975 for a gift from my husband and because I love to sew...he bought me the cabinet that went with it I do not think I got a carrying case I am 68 and get sometimers...haha....my question is..my tension back ring behind the spring is loose and doesn`t work right..my reverse barely works as all the thread bunches up..I have all the original books, hardware and all the button hole gadgets that I never used but it doesn`t say how to fix what I am having a problems with HELP. the timing is off and I can`t get it fixed.. ...it is clean and from I can see its free of dust..looks brand new and I love it but it can even sew blue jean material or satin it clogs ALL the time..its frustrating, I did take it in for servicing a few years back but the guy knew nothing about it and refused to take it in...your video was great and I enjoyed it, any suggestions on what I can do or if you can do a video on how to fix the tension ...your help would be greatly appreciated...I am from Toronto Canada and no one here knows how to fix my machine....your the best I have seen....
Join the Facebook group: Vintage Kenmore and Sears Sewing Machines
How do you change out the high shank presser foot?
There is a lever by the presser bar and foot that you tilt and this should release the foot. Refer to the user's manual if you have one. If not, they are available online for normally no more than $10. The next time I have one of these machines, I should make a video on how these work. The manual will be your best bet in the meantime.
Ooh amazing sewing machine I dont have the manual.how I change the needles? 😔
If you do a search online, you can find a PDF of the manual to this machine and many other machines. Some of the places on the web offer a free file and others charge, but not very much. Having the manual can be super helpful; especially when you are new to the machine.
Vintage Sewing Machine Garage thank you so much.
Raise the needle bar to its highest. The part that holds the needle has a thumb screw. Loosen the thumb screw just enough to remove the old needle then insert a new needle making sure the flat side faces the bar and goes as high as you can.
Where does 158.1400 come on your personal-interest scale?
Like most Kenmores from that era, I am a huge fan of their piercing power and reliability. Be extra careful with that model series as one of the small switches is very prone to breaking. The small switch to the right of the dials.
What do you think of the Kenmore 148.530 (the old "53")?
Can you adjust the needle position on this model? What models will allow different needle positions? I'd like the all metal machine.
Hello. Sears sold a LARGE variety of models, but for this model, the needle position is not adjustable.
Hello, I am looking for a super height shank walking foot. I have a 158.19412. Do you know of any resources?
Hi Linda. I"m not aware of any new reproductions of these as they were exclusive to just some of Sear's machines. But you can purchase the vintage ones online at places like Ebay, Etsy, and Bonanza. There "might" be an adaptor for these as there is for old style Bernina feet, but I'm not 100 % sure on that so you might do a search for those. Your best bet is likely online vintage.
How do you change a needle on an older Kenmore machine
Can you help me with a sears kenmore model 158.18032
My Kenmore shows stitches on the bottom of the fabrics but won’t stitch on the top of the fabric,what am I doing wrong
Do you know if you can use a free motion foot to my Kenmore 158.19412?
Hello. Although I have not tried to, if the lever for lowing your feed dogs is functional, you should be able to. However, most of these machines were set up for Super High Shank feet. I am not aware whether they produced and sold Free Motion versions of those feet although there may be an adapter available.
@@VintageSewingMachineGarage Thanks for getting back to me! Any thoughts on how to free motion quilt with my old Kenmore? I have one to stitch in the ditch and it works very well. Now want to expand and do some free motion. Do you know if they had a darning attachment?
Hello I can’t get my machine to stop jamming and the fabric does not move and stitch size does not adjust - is it hopeless?
Is this happening at the beginning of a seam? Is your thread nesting? If so, are you holding the threads behind the presser foot until you've stitched an inch or so down your seam? Many machines will "suck" thread ends into the machine at the beginning of a seam and create a nasty birds nest. If this is the case, just hold those threads behind the presser foot when beginning to sew. Alternatively, make a "leader" from a small piece of scrap folded over 2 or 3 times. It needn't be more than an inch square. Put this piece under your presser foot and sew from one end of it to the other, then stop and lift the presser foot. Next put your good fabric under the presser foot and begin sewing your seam, back-tacking as you would normally. Key to this is that you VERY, VERY gently pull your leader away from behind the presser foot as you begin sewing the seam. And I mean GENTLY! As soon as the machine begins moving the fabric, let go. This will prevent thread jams and get your fabric moving. Just snip it off when you're done your seam. You might also need to check your thread tension and your presser foot pressure. Good luck.
@@PibbleMom297 Thanks for the tip. I've had an older version of the Kenmore 158 since 1969 and you always have to hold the threads behind the foot when starting sewing as it has always from the beginning sucked the lower thread back into the bobbin. It's not a killer fault but it does slow you down a bit if you forget and get the birds nest. I always thought I must have some setting in the wrong position. I never had to do the end holding with other machines I'd used before my Kenmore. I'd love to know how to stop it doing that, after watching sewing videos of folks who never have to do it as they sew.
@@Beruthiel45 You are most welcome! I'm no expert so I have no idea how to help you not need to pull threads back and I sincerely doubt your settings are incorrect as you obviously are very experienced at sewing. Don't hold me to this, but I think it might depend a lot on the individual machine - vintage versus new and/or model type. I have two modern electronic Brother machines that don't require the threads pulled back. They each have a front load drop-in bobbin. My all-mechanical vintage Kenmores however (I have a collection as I LOVE vintage "Kennies") all have side-load or front-load vertical mounted bobbins and on those I have to pull about 3 inches of both threads back before sewing. Maybe that's the difference? And I've never though about it before, but I think I'll start watching more video's myself to see if the users are working on modern or vintage machines. This could prove quite interesting.
Thanks for the conversation; there's no end to what we can learn by sharing ideas. It's a win for all!
Is this the machine that was frozen with grease!? I watched 13 videos of you spraying wd40 to loosen everything up
The last video showed the straight stitch only working
I have a Model 1914. Can you tell me what year it is? It is free arm with cams.
+Mary Welu, the 158.19140 model was made around 1975, 19141 in 1975-76, and 19142 was made around 1976-77.
This doesn't have all years for all models, but is a fairly comprehensive list for various models and years. www.scribd.com/doc/67656202/Sears-Sewing-Machine-Model-Production-Dates-Catalog
I have a 158 1931 and bought it new at a Sears store in January 1969. Still works and have all the parts and tools and manual in English and French, as I'm in Canada. 🍁 Might help with the dating of yours knowing my numbers?
I have a identical machine in Great shape . it's the las of a Mohican. what is it worth
What about the price of this mechin
The handwheel is stuck
Hello I see no email......I have issues with my Kenmore 158-17861-80
I believe this is the year the book only showed the model number then
I was told another numbers which are 158 and 80.
The issues I have is the tensor I took the screw out and all come down
I'm not sure if I assembled correctly if you please show me how to do it
I will be very happy thank you so much for your time and help.
I mean my name is Elisia Ugalde
Hojalata uniera traducido en español...
I am the third generation to use this machine and I wonder if you could direct me to where I could see a video of how to use the buttonhole attachment for it?
Sharon George if you have not got help for your buttonhole attachment, I could send you pictures of the process. I not sure how to get a hold of me I have turned on my notice and I'll save this and check. Cheers
Christine Bean that would be great
Sharon George I forgot to tell you. I had to send away for a motor belt for my machine. My address is christinebean96@gmail.com you can give me your address if you still need it walk you through button hole Monday. My belt is do today. I'm not sure exactly how to do that maybe you can walk me through that🤔
Model 385
00