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I've used the toothpick trick a number of times. Another trick that works for me is one or two business cards in behind the hinge to 'bring it out' from the door jamb. I loved the 'bend the hinge trick' and will be using that as well. Thanks for the great video!
I’ve been dealing with a bathroom door that was snagging and wouldn’t close for almost a year. Moved into the house with the issue, tried everything I could think of. Watched your video and fixed 2 doors with 5 minutes of work bending 2 hinges. You’re a saint.
I had a realtor make a nasty comment about a closet door in my home I was selling. I thought seriously? Is that all you can find wrong? I'll show you. I used tip #3. I am a "not young" woman who loves DIY fixes. THIS was perfect!!! Door makes a crisp snap shut now! Home sold for listed price. THANK YOU!!!
@@TheFunnyCarpenter Thanks for the tips... I have different issues with each of my doors...I had a contractor do some structural work and afterward none of the doors upstairs close, but one when closed you get stuck in the room--its a bathroom and I guess when you shower the door swells and you get stuck inside, we've planed the door and it still is fickle. One bedroom door the top sits too far inside the room and the bottom is snug on the stop trim piece, another door is reverse that and the bottom of the door is gapped and the top rubs the stop trim piece, the bedroom with double doors you actually now have to lift the main swinging door to meet the strike plate on the other door. How do you fix the doors when it is 'off' vertically than horizontally (as in my case where the hinges wont fix the door being wracked
A little advice next time you get a realtor, you are signing on to list your home choose one that you like not some idiot. You’re not obliged to anyone unless you signed the paper for the length of the listing.
There is a much better video out there on how to fix this problem for real like when you have a house settle in your old door is sagging. It can also be achieved without taking off the door or hinges perhaps sometimes it’s just a loose screw but then most of the time it’s more like a settling foundation, etc., or just things sagging. This is likely a new door which it looks like in a newer home. I just got done fixing a latch problem with a bedroom door, not catching and staying closed because the metal striker plate (on frame) was bent inward some causing the latch to not be able to catch & hold properly. I needed new metal stricken plate & a small piece of wood to support the new plate better plus I didn’t have any wood filler handy) And this is why I keep some odd small pieces when I perhaps replace an old doorknob etc.) Just in case. Was working perfectly until I had a broom handle fall down into the hinge section of the door between the door edge and the wall, which I heard but didn’t see where it fell so I didn’t know it was in the door frame on the hall side)and when I tried to close inside room it must’ve just slightly bent the hinge one top as now the doors too tight and I have to press it to the left to close it right! I’ve got to fix the hinge now, which is another’s UA-cam video on a proper way to do this and an easy way without taking the door off! Be sure to look for the comment about wedging the door up first is very helpful also. I’ve seen other comments for many years about the toothpick trick with screws that are loose.
@@debrapolenz2928 You're a real Debbie Downer aint ya, I thought it was a helpful video, tip 1 stopped the door catching, I'll try tip 2 once I get a toothpick. I'd never heard of this trick before. You mention a better video don't no link, just a disparaging comment. Your issue with the striker plate is totally different issue from a sagging door. I had that issue before and searched specifically for that issue.
I'm not a handy man. Oddly enough I'm a great mechanic. But not a handy guy to have around the house. This video saved me from just purchasing a new door. I was over having to lift the damn door every time I went into my shop. And don't get me started telling my wife to "lift when you close the door!" All 3 things made my door work as it should. I appreciate you taking the time to make this video. Not all of us grew up fixing things around the house.
I recently repainted the doors in an old house that my wife and I purchased last year. Basically every door had the "landlord special" where the previous homeowner painted over every latch, hinge, and screw. I decided to replace the hardware and repaint the doors. When I rehung them... I didn't realize how jacked up everything was going to be. Very good tips. Thank you for the help!
When I bought my house they must have pulled the doors to paint and re-install. Latches are falling off, door won’t shut, everything is painted over, it’s a mess. Looking fwd to trying these tips.
I've had good luck just swapping the top and bottom hinges. The top hinge is the one that gets "tired" and has its plates separated by a gradually increasing gap. Replacing it with the "not tired" bottom hinge often solves the problem. Especially useful with the steel doors/frames found in older apartment buildings, which have enclosed spring-loaded hinges that don't have anything you can bend.
You mean, "retired". I found they were wear and tear. Once that happens, you have to replace them. Fixing is not a good solution. The problem will come back. Those are only a few bucks to replace. I rather change all of them. I replace them with the better brand with the bearings. They will last for 20 years. And, make sure you lubricate them with lithium grease once in a year.
So I live in an old appartment with metal frames. I tried to change the bottom one with the top one and it made it worse somehow. Would changing the hinges for newer ones fix this issue?
@@davidjrazeghi3248 you could change them with exactly the same hinge size. I refer the stainless steel if you can’t find any bearing type. Those brass or iron ones will never last. Those you can find at Home Depot are junk. Those bearing hinges are at Amazon. The reason you can’t find at Home Depot because those bearing ones are intended to make for business doors!
@@davidjrazeghi3248 it should work if you replaced with the correct ones. For the new ones, make sure they will line up, otherwise the door will not go in straight. I refer stainless steel on the new ones!
My added tip for #3, if you put a shim at the top of the door on the latch side you can make the gap the size you want before you bend the hinges. And when you go to bend the hinge loops with the wrench you will see exactly how far you need to move them, because the door will already be where you want it to be!
Toothpicks are also good for resetting your router, making jalapeño poppers and touching up paint. There’s another use but I can’t think of it right now because there’s food stuck in my teeth. Very distracting.
That last hinge trick was definitely worth the price of admission. Been doing this a long time. Never thought of it, never seen it. Gonna be my go to trick from here on out ...
I love your videos! I really like that you’re Canadian, because products are actually available to me. My husband did some “home repairs” that didn’t go so well or didn’t get finished. It turned out that he was suffering from Alzheimer’s at the age of 45. So now I need to fix things so that I can sell our house. Your videos have helped A LOT!
I am a professional caninetmaker and installer and I have learned so many excellent tips from you and I use them almost every week. Thank you and tip 3 is going into the "Legendary" toolbox
I've seen the hinge bending on other sites but you're the first one that lifts the door and shows me exactly which ones to bend and which way to bend them. Thank you.
I've endured jammed doors for the past year, but I just fixed over a dozen doors in about two hours with the help of this video. First, I replaced the middle screw on all hinges with 3in course thread drywall screws. Then, I used the adjustable wrench tip to fine tune the gap. Thanks for posting!
Over a year I’ve dealt with a door that woke the entire house up. Two long screws and five minutes later and problem solved. (And still have the bend the hinge trick in my arsenal now) You’re the man!!!!
I just had to say "Thank You"... I have stared at my bedroom door for over five years, it wouldn't close. I changed the hinges to black and ever since, the door was wonkey. Now... it closes and everything works great. Thank you for posting a video that actually teaches people something.
These are GLORIOUS fixes!! On the sly - I worked these on two doors…and astounded my husband the carpenter! My add to this is to be careful when you’re painting doors…that extra little bit of paint added along the edges can send a perfectly hung door into Crooked Door Hell!!! Think “very thin paint” on edges!! Thank you, sir!
As a professional carpenter for 35 years I've always found the no. 2 solution to be my go to. Never tried #3 but will keep it in my back pocket! Excellent video!
Never thought of the last fix, it was exactly what I needed. Thank you! I had tried all of the others before, they worked on some of my old doors, but not the stubborn bathroom door. I have old two hinge doors, and with the weight of multiple door hangers on it with wet towels, I can see why it would bend the hinge over time. Bending it back to the original position seemed to do the trick!
Thank u! It’s always hard to recognize your own accent, but I’ve always thought our accent was slightly slow, with very clear pronunciations. Lol this may not be true though.
Watched this video because the Algorithm popped it up. How it knew I needed this exact fix, I don’t know, it Prolly didn’t; but… Watched the video, fixed my problem within 5 minutes after, using a combo of tightening and rebending the hinges. You have no idea how much insecurity about opening my own bedroom door you just solved. Thank you.
Wow thank you!!! It worked!! My door has been rubbing the floor for years now and all i did was to do is tighten all four screws on the top hinge. Amazing man !!!
Hinge adjusters for adjusting the hinges on all doors or windows where there may be air between the frame and the frame .. a tool we used where i live for 30+ years .
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Thanks, the third technique worked for me, but I had to take the door off the hinges to get at the loops on the door hinges with the crescent wrench, because the hinges are right up against the door jamb. Then I used a Viking Arm to lift, latch and hold the door back in place while I hammered the pins back into the hinges.
High quality bamboo chop sticks from nicer take out places work really well for hole plugs/shims. They're just denser than toothpicks or soft wood chopsticks (pre-tapered and usually free). Great tips, as always!
Sir your videos are helpful and straight to the core. I hate listening to UA-camrs talk about themselves before they start fixing the problems. Great stuff!
@@TheFunnyCarpenter I am talking about the guys who say How to .... And the first 6 to 7 minutes of their videos is them talking about their channels, anecdotes, products they have used, sponsors, and don't forget the annoying music. I can't stand those type of videos. Joking here and there and making it fun like you did is different from what this other people do. Sometimes they are showing you and they interrupt the fixing part to talk about something. Your video was fun, straight to the point and best of all. it works. Great Job.
You just helped me save hours and hours of fixing my door the wrong way, and I did it in 5 minutes. And best of all, the door is now actually right and straight. Thank you so much.
Nice tips. For the last tips, you could use a wood shim or even cardboard on the top door gap first to align the hinge before bending. That way you know how much to bend.
@Jesus is LORD Quite right, straigtning doors is a sin. In fact it was on the original draft of the 10 commandments "Thou shalt not alter a hung door".
Yes, a longer screw that gets right into the house framing is often all you need. Also- if you must shim out a hinge I find that Arborite (Plastic laminate) samples are often the perfect thickness
Nice tip with the tooth pick! If I’ve seen the pool cue method you have to glue in and redrill, but the tooth lick is way easier. Never seen the loop bending method before either. Solid video !
Trick #2 was amazing! I really was all set up to have to go straight to #3 for a stubborn bathroom door but that long screw in the back hole really sunk and lifted the door perfectly in line. Thanks friend!
My most 30 day warranty calls on new builds is door adjustments. Sometimes its a trade issue but most are just house settling. thanks for the great tips.
Great fixes! I never thought of any of those... I usually shimmed the bottom hinges on my own doors to square them up. But I'm a plumber so thanks for the lesson! But as a plumber you're using the crescent wrong backwards. You always want the pulling or pushing force on the solid half mooned shaped side. I know why you did it the way you did ( to allow more movement during bending without damaging the door) but it hurts me everytime I see some one using them wrong.
It was my impression that in this case he turned it that way to get better leverage for bending the hinge. If he had used it the "correct way" (and I agree with you on that) he wouldn't have had as much control or leverage to bend the hinge.
Not arguing, but, like the reply above, I’ve always found the crescent moon shape allows me to get the most leverage because the moon rolls along the surface. Why is the moon side supposed to be the driving force?
@@ChrishBlake because the driving force against the screw on the wrench will, after repeated uses, stretch the metal. It makes the wrench "sloppy" and more likley to slip when extreme force is applied. The screw side is meant as a guide/holder. The best example I can give is using channel lock pliers in reverse. The force will try to open your hand instead of clamping down on the piece you're working on.
Thank you!!! We got new hardware and painted door and it stuck all the time at the top.. My boy friend had me sand all the paint off the top.. just “knowing” that would be the fix..NOPE and I knew it and told him.. I kept telling him it seems like something with the hinges and he said NOPE.. So his next “Trick” was to Trim the door at the top 😖.. BUT before he actually got to experiment.. I was determined to research a better way to fix this door jamming issue.. I am so so thrilled to come across your video 🥳.. Step number 3 fixed the issue .. although I should have bent the prongs just a bit more just for a perfect gap measurement.. my near perfect prong bending did the trick.. End Result.. Door opens and shuts with Great ease!! I can hardly contain myself for him to come home from work.. without me saying anything.. to see if he thinks the door fixed itself 😅 Thanks again!!!
Outstanding. My entrance door was rubbing left side frame at TOP ONLY . ( I tried Vaseline, WD-40, even sand-paper shaved the wood frame area down -- but nothing worked). Until I saw this video. Turns out the sagging problem was one loose screw on the top hinge. I removed it, screwed in a larger 2" screw and wah-lah. Done. The door closes easy now with no rubbing or stickiness, didn't even have to adjust the hinge pins. I just replaced one screw. Thank you so much for your easy to understand video and helpful tricks. You are amazing.
I'm staying in a hotel room for a few weeks and the sagging bathroom door causes the top corner to scrape against the frame which radiates an extremely loud and irritating noise each time you open or close it. Watching this video helped me realize what causes the sag, so since I don't have any tools I just folded up a paper coffee cup from the hotel room and stuffed it underneath the bottom hinge between the door and the jamb. It forces the door to correct the sag just enough so it doesn't scrape against the frame anymore - worked really well in a pinch!
That's so low tech they would not have put it on McGyver. Reminds me of the time I fixed someone's TV by using a coat hanger for an antenna and a paperclip to wire it into the F connector on the TV.
I have a good "fix" for a door sag. Pull the bottom hinge screws from the hinge part thats on the jamb. Run a 1 1/2 screw into the jamb at about the middle of the hinge but closer to the hing pin. Leave it proud about the amount you need to lift the door. Reinstall the hinge screws and check for proper gap at the latch side of door. If you need to adjust up or down just run the screw in or out that's behind the hinge. I call this the adjustable shim method. 😉👍
I guess that's ok, but seems like too much trouble and possible problems. The hinge plate would not be secure, it would be making contact only on the screw head, seems like that could wobble and possibly creak, and any wobble would tend to work loose the three plate screws. Over time your shimming screw might move and the door would sag again. Shims are available at your local hardware store, isn't that a better method?
For the hinge bending technique, don't forget to put a few shims in between the door gap so it's not constantly moving and you can bend the hinge easier and more accurately
I've actually used all three of these. I used to work at a privately owned dormitory in Chico, CA where college used to be second to partying and with solid core doors and drunk kids, they used to get slammed a lot. Couple that with 50+ years of building settling and regular adjustments were a norm, just had varying severity. Because of my figuring out these different ways, pretty much anything door related became my job. Still, cool to see them posted as top ideas.
Wish I seen this fix years ago. Been fighting my front door for years. Come to find out it already had oversized screws and the heads where to big. I ground the heads down and put toothpicks in the holds. Closes perfectly now.
Thank you!! #3 worked for my French doors but I landed up putting a few hotel card keys in between the two doors towards the top. My left door was leaning into the right and I did not have time to remove the hinge on the jamb. Once I had the gap in the middle right I bent the top hinge on the door side a smidge which barely made it but I think I also need to adjust the middle hinge. I needed a quick fix. #2 had the opposite effect for me! Driving in new screws pulled my left door up a mm. I finished off with my go to lubricant for plumbing: Dow Corning Molykote 111 Oring/Valve Lubricant. This stuff has helped me with fence gates too where wood on wood was rubbing. Damn rain here in Northern CA messed up a lot of things! Thanks. Will fix it later with the new tips here. Loved your delivery. You gained a subscriber.
I wish I came across this video sooner. We have french doors in our 3 year old house that bind at the top. I adjusted the screws and did the other stuff. It helped but started rubbing again recently. I bent the hinges like you mentioned. Took 5 minutes and works perfect. Gives more clearance than the other methods and was actually pretty easy.
I will definitely remember fix #3. I never thought of that as a solution. I gotta say though, do not ignore the possibility of foundation issues being the actual cause of your door alignment issues. The door from our laundry room to the garage was getting harder and harder to latch. It was also during the transition between cooler and warmer weather so I attributed it to that and didn't give it much more thought. I messed with the strikeplate a little and made the door easier to latch. Problem solved, right? During this time, we also noticed our bedroom door wouldn't stay closed. We had another door that was showing some alignment issues. The interior door to the laundry room, which is also on the same plane as our bedroom door (2-story house), would also drift open and a bedroom door right across from it wouldn't stay open. That's when we realized we had a much larger issue to contend with. Almost $20,000 later and now all those door issues are history. It was the foundation. The cool part was watching the foreman feel the gap on top of the front door as the guys outside did the lifting. Afterwards, we could see the difference, but during the lift, he could feel it moving. It was expensive, but it was also fascinating.
Now that you've found the cause of the sagging door, I hope you've looked into the cause of the foundation shift. How is your water/drainage system? Do you have adequate gutters and drains to lead the water away from your house?
@@immanuel162 it was only one side of the house that was sinking. We had a lot of rain last year and the area between our house and our neighbor's stayed wet for extended periods of time. Two, 2-story houses barely 15-20" apart and a tree all provided shade, not allowing the soil to dry properly. Excess water drains away just fine. We've lived here almost 13 years and we've had rainy years before but the tree was much smaller (new house when we moved in). The other side of our house is fine. A 1-story next to us on that side and plenty of sun with no tree in the way. We caught the problem in time and while it cost $20k to fix the foundation, it is solid now.
@@awlthatwoodcrafts8911 stinks that they don’t cover that… Like, what’s the point of home insurance if they won’t cover a $20k repair? Couldn’t something like that cause something much worse than a sagging door?
I was ready to fill the old holes and drill new holes for the door-catch plate before watching this video. 3rd (last) solution is the most common sense approach and fixed everything without any damage! Super simply described and very helpful! Thank you!
I want you to know I just used your solution for my sagging, stuck back door. Luckily, I had 3 inch screws that were the same size head as my hinge screws. I'm a 74 year old woman and it took me two minutes - thanks!!
Thank you SO much for your tips and how-to demonstrations. I actually had 4 different doors that needed adjusted, which were in various states of misalignment due to a recent re-leveling of our floors with new footer piers. Your tips worked PERFECTIVELY and I to utilize all of your tips to get the doors re-aligned. Thanks so much for the excellent advice!!!!
Good tips TFC. Another tip - when you open a new box of hinges there is typically a piece of thin cardboard that is perforated. Those are for shimming the hinges. You can place them behind the casing side of the hinge or the door stop side to effectively "angle" the hinge. In case you don't want to bend the hinges. This is especially helpful when doing heavy duty/commercial grade hinges when bending is much more difficult. To fill screw holes, I typically use cedar shims cut thin and then just snapped off flush.
THIS!!!!! The problem with the bending method presented in this video is that you won't get the bends perfect, not even close. Therefore the holes will not form a straight line and it will grip the hinge pin. That is guaranteed to make an impossible to eradicate squeak and may make the door noticeably stiff in operation. Angling the hinge like you suggest will keep a factory perfect alignment of the holes.
This was helpful... I actually had a different but similar problem. My door was sagging, and couldn't get it to click closed. I needed a door wedge. I lifted up my door to the correct height, slid in the wedge. I then tightened the screws, and viola! So, thank you.
I got this video right after watching Ryan George's "When you need a UA-cam video to fix something" video. Then I felt obligated to watch it through. Great job on the content!
For bending the loops, I would shim the bottom of the door to bring it back to where you want it, then bend the loops to match the door hinge loops. That way you don't have to guess where you need to take it.
@@jeremyashford2145 I don't see how that would help. Packing the gap at the top would make the gap up there bigger. But for bending the loops you want the gap smaller. When I was thinking of shinning the door it wasn't at the hinge side. I was thinking shim under the handle side to bring the top hinge corner closer to the jam. Which is what you need.
@@brandonb417 Some odd poor communication on this thread. Let me try. What Jeremy Ashford was suggesting is basically the same as the "shim the bottom" you are suggesting. Looking at the example door from this video, you've got the hinges on the right and the door handle on the left, and the door opens towards us (but that's not important for our present purposes). The gap between the top left edge of the door and the top frame is too big (which is to say the door is sagging) and needs to be made smaller with a shim. Jeremy is suggesting pushing the top left corner of the door over towards the right by placing a shim near the top of the left edge of the door, between the left edge of the door and the left frame. Such a shim would push the left edge of the door to the right, pivoting the entire door on the bottom hinge, and thus making the gap at the top of the door, between the left corner and the top frame, smaller, mission accomplished. Got it?
good tips. I use the 3rd one a lot. if your doing extreme bending, you may need to bend the middle hinge a bit too. If you need to fix a stipped door screw hole. Get a wood golf tee (chopstick works too but wood is softer so not as good). put wood glue on it, hammer it in there, cut off excess, let dry, redrill hole.
You are classic, and I enjoy your videos! Earlier this year we bought a 2 story house built in 1890 which was later moved down a river then put on its current location. Every door in the house is off 1/2" - 1" from one side to the other. We use bean bags to keep the doors open in the house. This year my goal is to "straighten" each door, starting with the outside doors to keep the air from blowing thru the house. Your video was very helpful!
Third trick was cool, would a shim in the top left corner help push the door over, that way while you’re bending the plate over you don’t have to guess?
FastCap makes the Knuckle Bender. "The Knuckle Bender is designed by a carpenter and allows you to quickly adjust any sagging door. The Knuckle Bender is adjustable to any size hinge, so making an adjustment is fast, simple and accurate every time. The built-in hinge pin remover allows you quickly remove any hinge pin."
Tip for removing hinge pins. To avoid damaging door and/or frame, use long nose pliers. Grip with pliers tips under the head of the pin and gently hammer further back along nose to lift out and place tips on top to knock back in. Always a good idea to clean pin and slicone spray prior to re-inserting.
@@samueldavis5895 The "nail set" (punch) is a given, but wooden hammers wont scratch paint ? Uh . . Yes ! . . lol. Plus most people don't have wooden hammers and it would struggle to move a stuck hinge pin.
Tip #1 is a go to, disposal chop sticks are the way to go for any stripped out screw holes. If the damage is really bad add a little wood glue to the mix. 😉
The last one is what you want to do. The first two options just help secure the door but most likely the hinge alignment is why it's leaning. I also use a paint mix stick as a shim in the jam to help hold things in place while doing this.
The last one did the trick on my front door. Would have saved me some time if i started with it but after years of a sticky front door I'm pretty glad it worked. also kicking myself i didn't do it sooner
Thank you @The Funny Carpenter. I had a door that shifted at the top. I watched your video, and I was able to bend the hinge to get the door to close properly. This is a very good video.
Brilliant! Applause from the peanut gallery here in dusty West Texas. Your #3, bend the hinge trick, helped shift and seal a huge gap in my trapezoid shaped door opening. Now my perfect rectangaular steel exterior house door no longer hits at the top, and it sealed a daylight gap and dust out at the bottom. I have no carpentry skills, but I can follow directions, and yours worked perfectly. I kept thinking I was going to have to remove the trim and reshim the entire door again. I did follow and apply all of your tips in order shown and #3 with a large set of Channel locks to bend the hinge did the trick for me. Thank you!
@William Ruisinger Thanks for the tip. It looks like what this guy did exactly with the adjustable wrench, but I looked closely and they simply drilled a hole in the jaws to make it round. You could easily make one by yourself.
For the 3rd tip, it’s easier to see if you went far enough or too far if you put a few business cards in between the door and jam on the door handle side until you have enough cards making the desired gap that matches the bottom. Then when your loops are aligned, you’re done.
@@mariskaaryan6925 no.. he's right. If you don't put something between the strike side of the door and the jamb, you can easily pull the hinge screws out of the door enough to strip the holes.............
I was struggling yo fix a bathroom door for 6 months and had tried your first two methods plus sanding back door edge to no avail. Your 3rd tip fixed the door in two minutes. Thanks for a great tip
@@cornstar1253 Oh they are very rare , like ginger nuns. But if you look hard enough you may find some tucked under the counter of some off-the-beaten-track tobacconist.
An alternative to the toothpick is to use a plastic wall anchor. Drill screw hole out to correct size for the anchor, trim the flange off of the end of the anchor and tap it into hole. Screw expands anchor and it holds well.
Great suggestions! I just bought an old house, built in 1905 and I have 2 BR doors that drag on the floor and won't close all the way. I thought I'd have to plane the bottoms of the doors but now I think it might just be the hinges, so that is what I'll try first. Thanks for your video! Very helpful because I'm an old nurse, not a Carpenter!
Start with the first trick! Worked for me. I actually started with the bend method first, but my hinges won’t bend. Went back to the easiest solution and BAM. Thank you!
At my workplace, one of the fitting room doors had this problem for years. Until this year when a customer got ‘stuck’ inside, went into pull panic mode, made a huge scene and sued the store. Management barely had it fixed last week. 😑
If you'd like to help me make better videos and you enjoy absurdly comfortable T-shirts:) check this out-> www.etsy.com/ca/shop/TheFunnyCarpenter?ref=search_shop_redirect
I've used the toothpick trick a number of times. Another trick that works for me is one or two business cards in behind the hinge to 'bring it out' from the door jamb. I loved the 'bend the hinge trick' and will be using that as well. Thanks for the great video!
Depends on wall sometimes wall left right are not level so if you install door sometimes not fit side by side because level is not accurate
Specially if the wall is concrete always make problem is not right level
Thanks my friend, the toothpick trick work marvelously. I was about to replace the hinge.
Toothpicks method fixed my sagging door after 8 years!!!
Thank you!!!
Toothpick? Who knew right??
I’ve been dealing with a bathroom door that was snagging and wouldn’t close for almost a year. Moved into the house with the issue, tried everything I could think of. Watched your video and fixed 2 doors with 5 minutes of work bending 2 hinges. You’re a saint.
That’s awesome Russell! Glad to help:)
Same since last night
Im curious. What did you try first?
Russell, new hinges are always a good thing.
@@johnthree1611 I was wondering that too! 🤣🤷
I had a realtor make a nasty comment about a closet door in my home I was selling. I thought seriously? Is that all you can find wrong? I'll show you. I used tip #3. I am a "not young" woman who loves DIY fixes. THIS was perfect!!! Door makes a crisp snap shut now! Home sold for listed price. THANK YOU!!!
That is rad! Glad the tip worked🍻
@@TheFunnyCarpenter Thanks for the tips... I have different issues with each of my doors...I had a contractor do some structural work and afterward none of the doors upstairs close, but one when closed you get stuck in the room--its a bathroom and I guess when you shower the door swells and you get stuck inside, we've planed the door and it still is fickle. One bedroom door the top sits too far inside the room and the bottom is snug on the stop trim piece, another door is reverse that and the bottom of the door is gapped and the top rubs the stop trim piece, the bedroom with double doors you actually now have to lift the main swinging door to meet the strike plate on the other door. How do you fix the doors when it is 'off' vertically than horizontally (as in my case where the hinges wont fix the door being wracked
A little advice next time you get a realtor, you are signing on to list your home choose one that you like not some idiot. You’re not obliged to anyone unless you signed the paper for the length of the listing.
There is a much better video out there on how to fix this problem for real like when you have a house settle in your old door is sagging. It can also be achieved without taking off the door or hinges perhaps sometimes it’s just a loose screw but then most of the time it’s more like a settling foundation, etc., or just things sagging. This is likely a new door which it looks like in a newer home. I just got done fixing a latch problem with a bedroom door, not catching and staying closed because the metal striker plate (on frame) was bent inward some causing the latch to not be able to catch & hold properly. I needed new metal stricken plate & a small piece of wood to support the new plate better plus I didn’t have any wood filler handy) And this is why I keep some odd small pieces when I perhaps replace an old doorknob etc.) Just in case. Was working perfectly until I had a broom handle fall down into the hinge section of the door between the door edge and the wall, which I heard but didn’t see where it fell so I didn’t know it was in the door frame on the hall side)and when I tried to close inside room it must’ve just slightly bent the hinge one top as now the doors too tight and I have to press it to the left to close it right! I’ve got to fix the hinge now, which is another’s UA-cam video on a proper way to do this and an easy way without taking the door off! Be sure to look for the comment about wedging the door up first is very helpful also. I’ve seen other comments for many years about the toothpick trick with screws that are loose.
@@debrapolenz2928 You're a real Debbie Downer aint ya, I thought it was a helpful video, tip 1 stopped the door catching, I'll try tip 2 once I get a toothpick. I'd never heard of this trick before. You mention a better video don't no link, just a disparaging comment. Your issue with the striker plate is totally different issue from a sagging door. I had that issue before and searched specifically for that issue.
I'm not a handy man. Oddly enough I'm a great mechanic. But not a handy guy to have around the house. This video saved me from just purchasing a new door. I was over having to lift the damn door every time I went into my shop. And don't get me started telling my wife to "lift when you close the door!" All 3 things made my door work as it should. I appreciate you taking the time to make this video. Not all of us grew up fixing things around the house.
I recently repainted the doors in an old house that my wife and I purchased last year. Basically every door had the "landlord special" where the previous homeowner painted over every latch, hinge, and screw. I decided to replace the hardware and repaint the doors. When I rehung them... I didn't realize how jacked up everything was going to be. Very good tips. Thank you for the help!
Dealing with the same thing and now we here lol 😆
When I bought my house they must have pulled the doors to paint and re-install. Latches are falling off, door won’t shut, everything is painted over, it’s a mess. Looking fwd to trying these tips.
I've had good luck just swapping the top and bottom hinges. The top hinge is the one that gets "tired" and has its plates separated by a gradually increasing gap. Replacing it with the "not tired" bottom hinge often solves the problem. Especially useful with the steel doors/frames found in older apartment buildings, which have enclosed spring-loaded hinges that don't have anything you can bend.
You mean, "retired". I found they were wear and tear. Once that happens, you have to replace them. Fixing is not a good solution. The problem will come back. Those are only a few bucks to replace. I rather change all of them. I replace them with the better brand with the bearings. They will last for 20 years. And, make sure you lubricate them with lithium grease once in a year.
So I live in an old appartment with metal frames. I tried to change the bottom one with the top one and it made it worse somehow. Would changing the hinges for newer ones fix this issue?
@@TT-dp8qhso I tried all the options I can think of and I have metal frames. Should changing the hinges for newer ones fix the problem?
@@davidjrazeghi3248 you could change them with exactly the same hinge size. I refer the stainless steel if you can’t find any bearing type. Those brass or iron ones will never last. Those you can find at Home Depot are junk. Those bearing hinges are at Amazon. The reason you can’t find at Home Depot because those bearing ones are intended to make for business doors!
@@davidjrazeghi3248 it should work if you replaced with the correct ones. For the new ones, make sure they will line up, otherwise the door will not go in straight. I refer stainless steel on the new ones!
My added tip for #3, if you put a shim at the top of the door on the latch side you can make the gap the size you want before you bend the hinges. And when you go to bend the hinge loops with the wrench you will see exactly how far you need to move them, because the door will already be where you want it to be!
Good tip
That is cheating!
I was thinking the same thing instead of that "trial and error" method.
Yep exactly my thought....
Great one this helped me a lot!
That toothpick tip blew my mind. Very stuck door is perfect now. Thank you!!
Toothpicks are also good for resetting your router, making jalapeño poppers and touching up paint. There’s another use but I can’t think of it right now because there’s food stuck in my teeth. Very distracting.
That last hinge trick was definitely worth the price of admission. Been doing this a long time. Never thought of it, never seen it. Gonna be my go to trick from here on out ...
It’s a good one for sure- hope it can come in handy!
This tip has been a lifesaver! Had 3 doors that wouldn't close properly and one that wouldn't latch at all. 10 minutes later...success! Thank you
Blown away by the toothpick trick, thanks!
I love your videos! I really like that you’re Canadian, because products are actually available to me. My husband did some “home repairs” that didn’t go so well or didn’t get finished. It turned out that he was suffering from Alzheimer’s at the age of 45. So now I need to fix things so that I can sell our house. Your videos have helped A LOT!
I’m sorry to hear about you husband Jennifer. I’m glad you’re finding the videos helpful- thanks for supporting the channel!
I am a professional caninetmaker and installer and I have learned so many excellent tips from you and I use them almost every week. Thank you and tip 3 is going into the "Legendary" toolbox
Thanks for the kind words Daryl. I’m glad to hear some of the tips r helpful. Enjoy your weekend!
Daryl, you make dogs?
@@kenhill5713 Yes, with bitches though. Not by himself.
ua-cam.com/users/1stchoicedrywall
@@danl.4743 I sure wish I knew what you guys were talking about.
I've seen the hinge bending on other sites but you're the first one that lifts the door and shows me exactly which ones to bend and which way to bend them. Thank you.
I've endured jammed doors for the past year, but I just fixed over a dozen doors in about two hours with the help of this video. First, I replaced the middle screw on all hinges with 3in course thread drywall screws. Then, I used the adjustable wrench tip to fine tune the gap. Thanks for posting!
Fix #3 is a real magic trick. Best solution I’ve ever found. Thank you!
Thanks for checking out the video
Over a year I’ve dealt with a door that woke the entire house up. Two long screws and five minutes later and problem solved. (And still have the bend the hinge trick in my arsenal now) You’re the man!!!!
Good to hear Steven🍻
I just had to say "Thank You"... I have stared at my bedroom door for over five years, it wouldn't close. I changed the hinges to black and ever since, the door was wonkey. Now... it closes and everything works great. Thank you for posting a video that actually teaches people something.
Thanks for sharing Tom- it’s great the tips were helpful!
The fact that you have stared at your bedroom door at all, let alone five years, seems to be your principle problem. Let's focus on that first.
These are GLORIOUS fixes!! On the sly - I worked these on two doors…and astounded my husband the carpenter!
My add to this is to be careful when you’re painting doors…that extra little bit of paint added along the edges can send a perfectly hung door into Crooked Door Hell!!! Think “very thin paint” on edges!! Thank you, sir!
Fantastic! Im glad the tips worked for you:)
@@TheFunnyCarpenter I watched alot of differant DYI because I do repairs myself , found your videos finally && your NOT a HACK!!!! WOOHOOO!!!
As a professional carpenter for 35 years I've always found the no. 2 solution to be my go to. Never tried #3 but will keep it in my back pocket! Excellent video!
Practical tips, just what I needed. Finally youtube recommending me what I need in life.
The last tip on bending the hinge helped me fix my bathroom door. Finally able to close the door completely. Thank you so much! Great advice!
That's great Nancy, I'm happy the tip worked!
Never thought of the last fix, it was exactly what I needed. Thank you! I had tried all of the others before, they worked on some of my old doors, but not the stubborn bathroom door. I have old two hinge doors, and with the weight of multiple door hangers on it with wet towels, I can see why it would bend the hinge over time. Bending it back to the original position seemed to do the trick!
You tips are particularly useful.
And your accent is pretty comfortable! Thanks from France.
Thank u! It’s always hard to recognize your own accent, but I’ve always thought our accent was slightly slow, with very clear pronunciations. Lol this may not be true though.
Watched this video because the Algorithm popped it up. How it knew I needed this exact fix, I don’t know, it Prolly didn’t; but…
Watched the video, fixed my problem within 5 minutes after, using a combo of tightening and rebending the hinges.
You have no idea how much insecurity about opening my own bedroom door you just solved.
Thank you.
Wow thank you!!! It worked!! My door has been rubbing the floor for years now and all i did was to do is tighten all four screws on the top hinge. Amazing man !!!
Amazing how little things like a sagging poor closing door can stress me out. Just another reason to love UA-cam. Great video and thanks for sharing.
Best wishes on the fix!
Hey. I'm a windows and doors manufacturer, and that third trick is a genius indeed! Whoop, thanks for the tip!
Thanks Dan
Hinge adjusters for adjusting the hinges on all doors or windows where there may be air between the frame and the frame .. a tool we used where i live for 30+ years .
This product needs to be reserved, please contact customer service for specific price。
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Wow, fix #3 was exactly the method we needed and didn't know. We had 2 doors that were sticking badly and this worked great for both. Thank you!
Same here. Thanks from Finland
hivespeak
Thanks
Thanks, the third technique worked for me, but I had to take the door off the hinges to get at the loops on the door hinges with the crescent wrench, because the hinges are right up against the door jamb. Then I used a Viking Arm to lift, latch and hold the door back in place while I hammered the pins back into the hinges.
High quality bamboo chop sticks from nicer take out places work really well for hole plugs/shims. They're just denser than toothpicks or soft wood chopsticks (pre-tapered and usually free).
Great tips, as always!
I use golf tees.
They fit in my toolbox and pouch a little easier.
A bag of 100 10” wood skewers is like a buck at Walmart
@@dan4091 Very true. Sometimes you have a hole larger than a BBQ skewer, however.
I have used that since i started reno's at 24.works very well.
You look like a genius. I've never tried the hinge bending trick. However, I am the self perclaimed "Door Whisperer".
😂now you got some new materials to whisper...
Sir your videos are helpful and straight to the core. I hate listening to UA-camrs talk about themselves before they start fixing the problems. Great stuff!
Thanks mate. I try to get to the point but do have a bit of fluff in there just for fun.
@@TheFunnyCarpenter I am talking about the guys who say How to .... And the first 6 to 7 minutes of their videos is them talking about their channels, anecdotes, products they have used, sponsors, and don't forget the annoying music. I can't stand those type of videos. Joking here and there and making it fun like you did is different from what this other people do. Sometimes they are showing you and they interrupt the fixing part to talk about something. Your video was fun, straight to the point and best of all. it works. Great Job.
You just helped me save hours and hours of fixing my door the wrong way, and I did it in 5 minutes. And best of all, the door is now actually right and straight. Thank you so much.
You are officially my favorite Canadian carpenter. I just fixed the most messed up door in my house. Kudos to you sir.
Nice tips. For the last tips, you could use a wood shim or even cardboard on the top door gap first to align the hinge before bending. That way you know how much to bend.
Great point
Or remove one leaf and chisel out 1/16 or 1/18 and that would work.
@Jesus is LORD Quite right, straigtning doors is a sin. In fact it was on the original draft of the 10 commandments "Thou shalt not alter a hung door".
Yes, a longer screw that gets right into the house framing is often all you need. Also- if you must shim out a hinge I find that Arborite (Plastic laminate) samples are often the perfect thickness
Arborite shims r the best! Perfect 1/32”.
Nice tip with the tooth pick!
If
I’ve seen the pool cue method you have to glue in and redrill, but the tooth lick is way easier. Never seen the loop bending method before either. Solid video !
Thanks buddy!
What is the "pool cue" method?
Trick #2 was amazing! I really was all set up to have to go straight to #3 for a stubborn bathroom door but that long screw in the back hole really sunk and lifted the door perfectly in line. Thanks friend!
My most 30 day warranty calls on new builds is door adjustments. Sometimes its a trade issue but most are just house settling. thanks for the great tips.
Didn't know about Step 3, it's brilliant! going to test it out later after work! Thanks
Good luck Brian!
Step 3 does not work for me. The hinge is too flush and frame prevents me from adjustment with wrench
@@beartug Try hitting it with a hammer. I'm not joking.
Great fixes! I never thought of any of those... I usually shimmed the bottom hinges on my own doors to square them up. But I'm a plumber so thanks for the lesson! But as a plumber you're using the crescent wrong backwards. You always want the pulling or pushing force on the solid half mooned shaped side. I know why you did it the way you did ( to allow more movement during bending without damaging the door) but it hurts me everytime I see some one using them wrong.
My dad was a plumber and he would drill it into my head how to properly use a crescent wrench too!
I cant bend them to save my life.
It was my impression that in this case he turned it that way to get better leverage for bending the hinge. If he had used it the "correct way" (and I agree with you on that) he wouldn't have had as much control or leverage to bend the hinge.
Not arguing, but, like the reply above, I’ve always found the crescent moon shape allows me to get the most leverage because the moon rolls along the surface.
Why is the moon side supposed to be the driving force?
@@ChrishBlake because the driving force against the screw on the wrench will, after repeated uses, stretch the metal. It makes the wrench "sloppy" and more likley to slip when extreme force is applied. The screw side is meant as a guide/holder. The best example I can give is using channel lock pliers in reverse. The force will try to open your hand instead of clamping down on the piece you're working on.
Living in Michigan, it's either really cold, or really hot. Everything is always shifting, especially on a slab foundation.. Thanks for this video
Best wishes!
Living in Houston, it's either hot, dam hot, or sweltering. Humidity ranges from "dripping" to "drenching." Everything is always shifting.
Thank you!!! We got new hardware and painted door and it stuck all the time at the top.. My boy friend had me sand all the paint off the top.. just “knowing” that would be the fix..NOPE and I knew it and told him.. I kept telling him it seems like something with the hinges and he said NOPE.. So his next “Trick” was to Trim the door at the top 😖.. BUT before he actually got to experiment..
I was determined to research a better way to fix this door jamming issue..
I am so so thrilled to come across your video 🥳..
Step number 3 fixed the issue .. although I should have bent the prongs just a bit more just for a perfect gap measurement.. my near perfect prong bending did the trick..
End Result..
Door opens and shuts with Great ease!! I can hardly contain myself for him to come home from work.. without me saying anything.. to see if he thinks the door fixed itself 😅
Thanks again!!!
That is awesome!
Outstanding. My entrance door was rubbing left side frame at TOP ONLY . ( I tried Vaseline, WD-40, even sand-paper shaved the wood frame area down -- but nothing worked). Until I saw this video. Turns out the sagging problem was one loose screw on the top hinge. I removed it, screwed in a larger 2" screw and wah-lah. Done. The door closes easy now with no rubbing or stickiness, didn't even have to adjust the hinge pins. I just replaced one screw. Thank you so much for your easy to understand video and helpful tricks. You are amazing.
I am astounded at the consistently increasing amount of leverage as related to the size of my wrench, in all situations.
Randooooom
I'm staying in a hotel room for a few weeks and the sagging bathroom door causes the top corner to scrape against the frame which radiates an extremely loud and irritating noise each time you open or close it.
Watching this video helped me realize what causes the sag, so since I don't have any tools I just folded up a paper coffee cup from the hotel room and stuffed it underneath the bottom hinge between the door and the jamb. It forces the door to correct the sag just enough so it doesn't scrape against the frame anymore - worked really well in a pinch!
Nice fix hotel handyman!
Did you get a discount for staying? :)
That's so low tech they would not have put it on McGyver. Reminds me of the time I fixed someone's TV by using a coat hanger for an antenna and a paperclip to wire it into the F connector on the TV.
Lucky you don't drink coffee, or else you would have been steamed. hahahahaha
That's using the old bean!
I have a good "fix" for a door sag. Pull the bottom hinge screws from the hinge part thats on the jamb. Run a 1 1/2 screw into the jamb at about the middle of the hinge but closer to the hing pin. Leave it proud about the amount you need to lift the door. Reinstall the hinge screws and check for proper gap at the latch side of door. If you need to adjust up or down just run the screw in or out that's behind the hinge. I call this the adjustable shim method. 😉👍
I guess that's ok, but seems like too much trouble and possible problems. The hinge plate would not be secure, it would be making contact only on the screw head, seems like that could wobble and possibly creak, and any wobble would tend to work loose the three plate screws. Over time your shimming screw might move and the door would sag again. Shims are available at your local hardware store, isn't that a better method?
Thanks!
I use all three of these plus in some cases, shimming the hinges if necessary. All work well
The editing, the advice, everything was so easy and helpful. Thanks!
For the hinge bending technique, don't forget to put a few shims in between the door gap so it's not constantly moving and you can bend the hinge easier and more accurately
Unnecessary
Came back after not seeing any of your videos for months, because I forgot how to tune up a door. Thanks again.
I've actually used all three of these. I used to work at a privately owned dormitory in Chico, CA where college used to be second to partying and with solid core doors and drunk kids, they used to get slammed a lot. Couple that with 50+ years of building settling and regular adjustments were a norm, just had varying severity. Because of my figuring out these different ways, pretty much anything door related became my job. Still, cool to see them posted as top ideas.
May I recommend using a shim on on the handle side to hold the door in place while bending the hinge?
Wish I seen this fix years ago. Been fighting my front door for years. Come to find out it already had oversized screws and the heads where to big. I ground the heads down and put toothpicks in the holds. Closes perfectly now.
Let me guess.... You wear a nametag to work huh?
@@wealldieatthehandsoflovedones and you live under a bridge (your mother's basement)
@@pleaseandthankyou708 close... I live in a camper. At Wal-Mart free
@@wealldieatthehandsoflovedones so you squat in a place where people wear name tags to work and post up like a superior... Sleep tight
Great work Eric. Few things are as annoying as a jiggy front door, with the juvenile name calling in this thread being one of those things.
Thank you!! #3 worked for my French doors but I landed up putting a few hotel card keys in between the two doors towards the top. My left door was leaning into the right and I did not have time to remove the hinge on the jamb. Once I had the gap in the middle right I bent the top hinge on the door side a smidge which barely made it but I think I also need to adjust the middle hinge. I needed a quick fix. #2 had the opposite effect for me! Driving in new screws pulled my left door up a mm. I finished off with my go to lubricant for plumbing: Dow Corning Molykote 111 Oring/Valve Lubricant. This stuff has helped me with fence gates too where wood on wood was rubbing. Damn rain here in Northern CA messed up a lot of things! Thanks. Will fix it later with the new tips here. Loved your delivery. You gained a subscriber.
I wish I came across this video sooner. We have french doors in our 3 year old house that bind at the top. I adjusted the screws and did the other stuff. It helped but started rubbing again recently. I bent the hinges like you mentioned. Took 5 minutes and works perfect. Gives more clearance than the other methods and was actually pretty easy.
I will definitely remember fix #3. I never thought of that as a solution.
I gotta say though, do not ignore the possibility of foundation issues being the actual cause of your door alignment issues. The door from our laundry room to the garage was getting harder and harder to latch. It was also during the transition between cooler and warmer weather so I attributed it to that and didn't give it much more thought. I messed with the strikeplate a little and made the door easier to latch. Problem solved, right?
During this time, we also noticed our bedroom door wouldn't stay closed. We had another door that was showing some alignment issues. The interior door to the laundry room, which is also on the same plane as our bedroom door (2-story house), would also drift open and a bedroom door right across from it wouldn't stay open. That's when we realized we had a much larger issue to contend with.
Almost $20,000 later and now all those door issues are history. It was the foundation. The cool part was watching the foreman feel the gap on top of the front door as the guys outside did the lifting. Afterwards, we could see the difference, but during the lift, he could feel it moving. It was expensive, but it was also fascinating.
Now that you've found the cause of the sagging door, I hope you've looked into the cause of the foundation shift. How is your water/drainage system? Do you have adequate gutters and drains to lead the water away from your house?
Did your home insurance cover that?
@@immanuel162 it was only one side of the house that was sinking. We had a lot of rain last year and the area between our house and our neighbor's stayed wet for extended periods of time. Two, 2-story houses barely 15-20" apart and a tree all provided shade, not allowing the soil to dry properly. Excess water drains away just fine. We've lived here almost 13 years and we've had rainy years before but the tree was much smaller (new house when we moved in). The other side of our house is fine. A 1-story next to us on that side and plenty of sun with no tree in the way. We caught the problem in time and while it cost $20k to fix the foundation, it is solid now.
@@Jaur-jaur no, because it was caused by shifting soil.
@@awlthatwoodcrafts8911 stinks that they don’t cover that… Like, what’s the point of home insurance if they won’t cover a $20k repair? Couldn’t something like that cause something much worse than a sagging door?
Dang bro I’m a maintenance technician for apartments never thought of bending the loops thanks for the tips
Then maybe you should just clean toilets
@@gregrupar135 Mean people suck.
I was ready to fill the old holes and drill new holes for the door-catch plate before watching this video. 3rd (last) solution is the most common sense approach and fixed everything without any damage! Super simply described and very helpful! Thank you!
Wow! Bending the top hinge worked perfect! 8 years of lifting the front door just to lock the deadbolt! THANK YOU VERY MUCH!
I want you to know I just used your solution for my sagging, stuck back door. Luckily, I had 3 inch screws that were the same size head as my hinge screws. I'm a 74 year old woman and it took me two minutes - thanks!!
Thank you SO much for your tips and how-to demonstrations. I actually had 4 different doors that needed adjusted, which were in various states of misalignment due to a recent re-leveling of our floors with new footer piers. Your tips worked PERFECTIVELY and I to utilize all of your tips to get the doors re-aligned. Thanks so much for the excellent advice!!!!
Good tips TFC.
Another tip - when you open a new box of hinges there is typically a piece of thin cardboard that is perforated. Those are for shimming the hinges. You can place them behind the casing side of the hinge or the door stop side to effectively "angle" the hinge. In case you don't want to bend the hinges.
This is especially helpful when doing heavy duty/commercial grade hinges when bending is much more difficult.
To fill screw holes, I typically use cedar shims cut thin and then just snapped off flush.
Excellent point on shimming the hinges- I could probably make a few more vids on doors tricks!
I've made shims out of soda cans. The thin aluminium will cut with a pair of scissors.
THIS!!!!! The problem with the bending method presented in this video is that you won't get the bends perfect, not even close. Therefore the holes will not form a straight line and it will grip the hinge pin. That is guaranteed to make an impossible to eradicate squeak and may make the door noticeably stiff in operation. Angling the hinge like you suggest will keep a factory perfect alignment of the holes.
"Box of hinges" .....git oudda here! This is a DIY video.
Pure genius. I do the same type of hinge bending to get Chevy/GMC truck doors to line up.
Thanks Matt
This was helpful... I actually had a different but similar problem. My door was sagging, and couldn't get it to click closed. I needed a door wedge. I lifted up my door to the correct height, slid in the wedge. I then tightened the screws, and viola! So, thank you.
I got this video right after watching Ryan George's "When you need a UA-cam video to fix something" video. Then I felt obligated to watch it through. Great job on the content!
For bending the loops, I would shim the bottom of the door to bring it back to where you want it, then bend the loops to match the door hinge loops. That way you don't have to guess where you need to take it.
No need to release the bottom hinge. Just pack the gap at the top with cardboard until it is in the correct position, then bend the hinge to fit.
@@jeremyashford2145 I don't see how that would help. Packing the gap at the top would make the gap up there bigger. But for bending the loops you want the gap smaller. When I was thinking of shinning the door it wasn't at the hinge side. I was thinking shim under the handle side to bring the top hinge corner closer to the jam. Which is what you need.
@@brandonb417 pack the top left closing jamb side and you don't need to bend down once.
Or just don’t bother shimming and do it how he did it by eye balling. If it looks good it most likely is good.
@@brandonb417 Some odd poor communication on this thread. Let me try. What Jeremy Ashford was suggesting is basically the same as the "shim the bottom" you are suggesting. Looking at the example door from this video, you've got the hinges on the right and the door handle on the left, and the door opens towards us (but that's not important for our present purposes). The gap between the top left edge of the door and the top frame is too big (which is to say the door is sagging) and needs to be made smaller with a shim. Jeremy is suggesting pushing the top left corner of the door over towards the right by placing a shim near the top of the left edge of the door, between the left edge of the door and the left frame. Such a shim would push the left edge of the door to the right, pivoting the entire door on the bottom hinge, and thus making the gap at the top of the door, between the left corner and the top frame, smaller, mission accomplished. Got it?
Exactly the way to do it...I’ve installed and repaired thousands of doors...good tips that save frustration.
good tips. I use the 3rd one a lot. if your doing extreme bending, you may need to bend the middle hinge a bit too.
If you need to fix a stipped door screw hole. Get a wood golf tee (chopstick works too but wood is softer so not as good). put wood glue on it, hammer it in there, cut off excess, let dry, redrill hole.
Definitely a good option
Dowels?
@@pearlperlitavenegas2023 dowel works great
You just saved me thousands of dollar replacing my patio door. Top hinge step 1 & 2. God Bless
You are classic, and I enjoy your videos! Earlier this year we bought a 2 story house built in 1890 which was later moved down a river then put on its current location. Every door in the house is off 1/2" - 1" from one side to the other. We use bean bags to keep the doors open in the house. This year my goal is to "straighten" each door, starting with the outside doors to keep the air from blowing thru the house. Your video was very helpful!
Third trick was cool, would a shim in the top left corner help push the door over, that way while you’re bending the plate over you don’t have to guess?
Probably wouldn’t hurt!
Well I'll be damned if I didn't learn something. Never thought about dending the pens like that. Great idea bro
Thanks Ricky
For real. That last one was new for me.
FastCap makes the Knuckle Bender. "The Knuckle Bender is designed by a carpenter and allows you to quickly adjust any sagging door. The Knuckle Bender is adjustable to any size hinge, so making an adjustment is fast, simple and accurate every time. The built-in hinge pin remover allows you quickly remove any hinge pin."
I don't use the word "hero" very often, but you sir are the world's greatest living hero.
Thank you! Your "fix" directions worked great. Screws were tight. Just bending the hinge sockets with a cresent wrench took care of the problem.
That's great!
Nice! House is almost 15 and several doors are sagging. I'm going to try these and report back. :)
Best wishes!
For the second tip. You can remove the entire wall side hinge and put your screw in behind it to hide it beneath the hinge.
Tip for removing hinge pins. To avoid damaging door and/or frame, use long nose pliers. Grip with pliers tips under the head of the pin and gently hammer further back along nose to lift out and place tips on top to knock back in. Always a good idea to clean pin and slicone spray prior to re-inserting.
Uh… no lol just use a nail set and tap them out from underneath with a small wooden hammer… 🤦🏾♂️
@@samueldavis5895 The "nail set" (punch) is a given, but wooden hammers wont scratch paint ? Uh . . Yes ! . . lol. Plus most people don't have wooden hammers and it would struggle to move a stuck hinge pin.
Yes.
@@steeevo0136 : Rubber mallet.
@@steeevo0136
Holy Sh#!. Been slamming this door for years. Fix 2 was $$$$. Thank you for the content!
I never thought I would watch a carpentry video, but I needed fix #3 and this video is so well made that I had to subscribe. Thanks!
Tip #1 is a go to, disposal chop sticks are the way to go for any stripped out screw holes. If the damage is really bad add a little wood glue to the mix. 😉
Or matchsticks.
Or cardboard.
If you use the chopstick you will need to re-drill the hole.
I used saw dust and superglue with great effect
@@schwarzesonne6529 Too much work. Hammer a golf tee takes 30 seconds. Toothpick takes 5 seconds.
The last one is what you want to do. The first two options just help secure the door but most likely the hinge alignment is why it's leaning. I also use a paint mix stick as a shim in the jam to help hold things in place while doing this.
The last one did the trick on my front door. Would have saved me some time if i started with it but after years of a sticky front door I'm pretty glad it worked. also kicking myself i didn't do it sooner
@@Art-uz3fk How was the door sticking?
I use golfing tees for the stripped screw holes and you can get about two holes per tee> More expensive then tooth picks but will last forever.
Not the way I do it. I use two tees per hole. And that's just at the windmill!
Thank you @The Funny Carpenter. I had a door that shifted at the top. I watched your video, and I was able to bend the hinge to get the door to close properly. This is a very good video.
Brilliant! Applause from the peanut gallery here in dusty West Texas. Your #3, bend the hinge trick, helped shift and seal a huge gap in my trapezoid shaped door opening. Now my perfect rectangaular steel exterior house door no longer hits at the top, and it sealed a daylight gap and dust out at the bottom.
I have no carpentry skills, but I can follow directions, and yours worked perfectly.
I kept thinking I was going to have to remove the trim and reshim the entire door again.
I did follow and apply all of your tips in order shown and #3 with a large set of Channel locks to bend the hinge did the trick for me. Thank you!
There is a special tool made to bend the hinges (knuckles). I purchased one and it works great.
@William Ruisinger Thanks for the tip. It looks like what this guy did exactly with the adjustable wrench, but I looked closely and they simply drilled a hole in the jaws to make it round. You could easily make one by yourself.
I've had an aluminium framed door doing my head in for months and yep head is still wobbling, thank you so much for the 3rd tip!
For the 3rd tip, it’s easier to see if you went far enough or too far if you put a few business cards in between the door and jam on the door handle side until you have enough cards making the desired gap that matches the bottom. Then when your loops are aligned, you’re done.
Damn , what a hack way... smh....
@@mariskaaryan6925 no.. he's right. If you don't put something between the strike side of the door and the jamb, you can easily pull the hinge screws out of the door enough to strip the holes.............
A use shims to lift the door until it latches. The bend loops in correct place.
Thank you, though my doors were rubbing due to expanding! Fixed 3 doors in 5 minutes. Thank you 😊
I was struggling yo fix a bathroom door for 6 months and had tried your first two methods plus sanding back door edge to no avail. Your 3rd tip fixed the door in two minutes. Thanks for a great tip
I don't know how you put out more than one documentary a year, the work that's involved to make something like this, I can't even imagine.
I always fill screw holes with matchsticks when replacing the screw - They do a fine job.
Where do you get matchsticks
@@cornstar1253 Oh they are very rare , like ginger nuns. But if you look hard enough you may find some tucked under the counter of some off-the-beaten-track tobacconist.
Down here in North Texas, it could be a foundation shifting. Too dry or too wet. Multiple doors will get stuck.
An alternative to the toothpick is to use a plastic wall anchor. Drill screw hole out to correct size for the anchor, trim the flange off of the end of the anchor and tap it into hole. Screw expands anchor and it holds well.
That’s a great idea, thank u
Great suggestions! I just bought an old house, built in 1905 and I have 2 BR doors that drag on the floor and won't close all the way. I thought I'd have to plane the bottoms of the doors but now I think it might just be the hinges, so that is what I'll try first. Thanks for your video! Very helpful because I'm an old nurse, not a Carpenter!
Start with the first trick! Worked for me. I actually started with the bend method first, but my hinges won’t bend. Went back to the easiest solution and BAM. Thank you!
At my workplace, one of the fitting room doors had this problem for years. Until this year when a customer got ‘stuck’ inside, went into pull panic mode, made a huge scene and sued the store. Management barely had it fixed last week. 😑