hmmm. I've never heard of those specs and that is very loose. stock predator 212s are usually set at or should be set at .003 or tighter for both intake and exhaust.
Yes and no. My valve lash is absolutely perfect and it still does here and there, it’s the advance timing on the flywheel that makes it do that. But having your valve last tighter and adjusted right makes it a lot better, your valve last overtime can come out of wack so it’s good to check it here and there. Also you need to pull it on the compression release stroke, it will start easier and it won’t rip back
@@kaizupiano7826 gotta make sure the piston is at top dead center before setting valve lash. that's why he had the flashlight looking in the spark plug hole. I didn't hear him mention it tho
I have a gocart with a 212 hemi. I have put a stage 1 kit on it. Put a header, removed governor, removed the oil sensor, have a torque converter put a k&n style air filter on it and rejetted the carb and i wanted to put a vm22 carb and extended intake manifold on it. Do i need to get a billet flywheel and connecting rod before i do that or can i do that and still run stock flywheel and connecting rod?
To be honest I didn’t really notice anything. It’s such a slight difference that you probably won’t notice anything. It’s more of a durability and better design type of upgrade
Looks like your push rods are too short. But it may turn out that way with those rockers. I use the old style Champions on all my minibike engines. The geometry isn't perfect but always close enough with stock length clone push rods.
Yeah I’m thinking that’s how these rockers are. These are the stock length and they are chromoly and they are a direct bolt up so I think it’s the way the geometry of them are. There’s still a bunch of adjustment on them as well
Yes some different models and years will have them and some won’t. I personally would say you don’t really need them. If your motor is stock though I would use them
@@Guido19 I just converted a husqvarna motor over to my bike..and just had to change flywheels for the generator...I seen no difference other than I put the cap on the intake valve so it don't wair out agin..mine wore out and fell off then bent the valve ..
Dude mine has the same thing but I found out it's suppose to go on the exhaust side. You'll be able to notice as there is more of a space then the intake.
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Hemi is .0039-.0059 for both valves.
Non-hemi is .004-.006 intake and is .006-.008 exhaust
lash setting in the manual is .004 -.006 for intake and .006 -.008 for exhaust.
hmmm. I've never heard of those specs and that is very loose. stock predator 212s are usually set at or should be set at .003 or tighter for both intake and exhaust.
@@Guido19it says it on the manual and i set it to .005 and .007 and my engine wont start
@@jeffoclock3047 I would try to set it tighter try .003
@@Guido19 thank you i set both to .003 and now it runs great
@@jeffoclock3047 perfect glad it worked!
So if the recoil rips out of my hand it's because the lash is too loose?
Yes and no. My valve lash is absolutely perfect and it still does here and there, it’s the advance timing on the flywheel that makes it do that. But having your valve last tighter and adjusted right makes it a lot better, your valve last overtime can come out of wack so it’s good to check it here and there. Also you need to pull it on the compression release stroke, it will start easier and it won’t rip back
I have done this and still have kickback and back firing out of carb
Possibly motor could be out of time! Check that the dots on the came and crank shaft are lined up.
@@Guido19 yes they are lined up it ran great before I put new billet rod and flywheel and carb on,I tried everything
@@alexmattice5747ever solve this? i’m dealing with the same shit
I have the same problem after upgrading from stock did you ever figure out the problem?@alexmattice5747
@@kaizupiano7826 gotta make sure the piston is at top dead center before setting valve lash. that's why he had the flashlight looking in the spark plug hole. I didn't hear him mention it tho
I have a gocart with a 212 hemi. I have put a stage 1 kit on it. Put a header, removed governor, removed the oil sensor, have a torque converter put a k&n style air filter on it and rejetted the carb and i wanted to put a vm22 carb and extended intake manifold on it. Do i need to get a billet flywheel and connecting rod before i do that or can i do that and still run stock flywheel and connecting rod?
what did you tourqe the nuts that were below the ones you tighten for your valve lash for the rocker arms
204 in pounds👍🏼
What size what is the lash you used??
I always do .002! Works great having it a bit tighter. .003 is perfect though too!
Ok cool ty sm
Would you know the lash for regular champion rockers?
@@mrcloud2212 it is the same👍🏼
i’m trying it right now it’s not working it’s turning over but it’s not staying on do you think you could help me??
how much of a difference do the straight style 1:1 champion rockers provide I ordered some as well as a stage 2 racer kit
To be honest I didn’t really notice anything. It’s such a slight difference that you probably won’t notice anything. It’s more of a durability and better design type of upgrade
I did this but after a couple mins of riding the rockers keep coming off
Is that engine powdercoated or what kind of paint is that?
Piston needs to be top end before doing a lash valve on both intake and exhaust
@@MikeBeatzcom yup!
Looks like your push rods are too short. But it may turn out that way with those rockers. I use the old style Champions on all my minibike engines. The geometry isn't perfect but always close enough with stock length clone push rods.
Yeah I’m thinking that’s how these rockers are. These are the stock length and they are chromoly and they are a direct bolt up so I think it’s the way the geometry of them are. There’s still a bunch of adjustment on them as well
Do you tourqe the rockers down? And if so what spec?
You probably could but I would just do it buy hand and make sure it’s pretty tight and won’t come lose. Especially on these upgraded 1:1 rockers.
I don't have .030 on my feeler guage
@@MikeBeatzcom it’s .003
@@Guido19 ok thanks
What do I do if it is to hard to pull
I would make sure the motor is in time all around and make sure the lash is in spec.
My motor had a missing lash cap ,then i heard they sposetoo for some dumb reasons
Yes some different models and years will have them and some won’t. I personally would say you don’t really need them. If your motor is stock though I would use them
@@Guido19 I just converted a husqvarna motor over to my bike..and just had to change flywheels for the generator...I seen no difference other than I put the cap on the intake valve so it don't wair out agin..mine wore out and fell off then bent the valve ..
@@jakelang4387 that’s crazy yeah if it’s stock I would run it how it was but if there’s some upgrades done I wouldn’t really worry about it.
Dude mine has the same thing but I found out it's suppose to go on the exhaust side. You'll be able to notice as there is more of a space then the intake.
Can I use a credit card?
No that will be too thick
Feeler gauges are like 4.99 at harbor freight