Mad respect for admitting mistakes and showing growth. Too many instructional channels/personalities show only picture perfect, pimped out final versions of stuff they do creating unrealistic creativity image leading to frustration and disappointment among beginners. True Specialists Make Mistakes!
My best friend had the saying: 'He who never made a mistake never made anything'. He proved the veracity of this by running off with my first wife! However, as things turned out (I've celebrated over 50 years with my second wife) he did prove he was my best friend.
Coincidentally I just watched a Steve Ramsey video of his outdoor patio table one year on. It was a mess (which he managed to save). Like you he identified errors and mishaps. I only wish more YT woodworkers would do that
I built a shed three years ago and had similar air flow issues Also learnt lots in doing so. Thanks for the honest reflection, not everything perfect all the time. Very similar to my efforts…..
Put angle iron horizontally across the inside of the door in 3 locations ... will stop the door from bowing and straighten it out. Use carriage bolts from the out side to the inside for security.
Angle iron may stop the bowing, but will cause worse issues. The horizontal ledge bowing gives the individual boards somewhere to go as they expand sideways. Think of it like an old bi-metallic strip. Remove that ability to bow, and with nowhere left to go, the vertical boards will buckle and come away from the iron. The only way to stop timber expanding is to stop it taking on moisture, hard with T&G boards. A thorough finishing, with end grain sealer on the top and bottom of the door is the best you can do.
Dealing with moisture is absolutely one of the most difficult things to master. You've done a great job with the shed and a few minor setbacks are what life is all about!
Now in 2023 I dread to think what the timber cost would be. However when you look at the price of new “and” very poorly manufactured sheds, building your own is still a very good option… thanks for sharing 👍🍻
Hi Keith, I'm no expert but had the same problem over a wet winter in a new workshop / shed years ago. The fix that worked for me was to add vents both high and at floor level so the cold air coming in low pushes the warm air holding the water out the top. I also added a little cheap solar fan high up. Never had a problem again. Thanks for the useful videos.
Nice to see your honest follow-up. Good ventilation is really the key to fixing the mould. The vents are useful but it may be even better to add some mechanical assistance. Here in Australia, we have things like the “Whirleybird” that uses wind movement to extract inside air, allowing air to be drawn in those vents you installed. You may have something similar over there. I love your various videos.
I built my own workshop some years ago, same problem. I hadn't been in there for a while (winter months), and was shocked to find all my tools had come down with orange fever (rust). I had condensation literally dripping from the roof🤔. I managed to solve the problem by putting in vents top and bottom of the side wall with 4 inch extractor fans on the opposing walls, which I then linked to a timer which was set to run for 15 minutes per day. Success.. problem solved, Job done.😉
It is one thing to see someone building a shed, but it is so much more valuable to see which problems can occure and what can be done to prevent it. Great videos, thanks a lot!!
I watched yours, Liam Griffin’s and Ali Dymock’s videos to give me the confidence to build my own 12x10ft shed last year, they were all fab resources. I’ve had the same issue with condensation, my shed is also wrapped with breathable membrane so even less air flow. I used similar products to get rid of the mould and have the same staining left over. I also treated the underside of my roof ply with sika 5 star wood treatment and am hoping this winter will be a lot better. I use a Neos SmartHome leak sensor which also detects humidity to give me an idea of when to open the windows/door to prevent it from happening again. I installed a shower extractor fan too but didn’t see much effect of that to be honest and also have painted the shed with no nonsense shed paint so that the shed doesn’t soak up so much moisture when it’s raining. Just sharing similar experiences.
Keith, thanks for sharing this one. The shed still looks good and so does your 'lucky shorts'. I had almost forgotten about them. If you decide to paint, don't wear them. They must be protected you know.
Great video! I have a suggestion for the mold issue. You can attach a cheap low voltage computer fan inside to those round soffit vent covers. They can easily run on batteries, but the most effective thing to do is attach a small (6"x6") solar panel to each of them so they're automatically running every day from dawn until dusk.
When I built my workshop I put down a layer of thick damp course plastic underneath the floor. I am convinced that it prevents damp air rising through the floor. This way it is easier to ventilate the space because you only need to worry about ventilating warm air inside the shed and not warm air from below the floor rising up and condensing. Its been up 2 years now and I haven't had any mould at all which I'm quite surprised about. I put 1 trickle vent on the window which is always open located towards the ceiling. I do have a window that opens but through the winter it stays closed. One thing I would suggest is to add some polystyrene insulation to the inside roof sections as you did in your original workshop. At least that way if warm air condenses on the ceiling....it will be on the polystyrene and not on the ply. The closed cell structure of polystyrene prevents water penetration.
Good video on learning from mistakes. The comments about this being an unheated structure are correct (closed cell insulation would have helped, but yes more money.) .Best practices follow regular house framing if you want to avoid rot, vapor intrusion and mold: polyethylene vapor barrier (plastic sheeting ) at the floor deck and on the walls like a tyvek wall wrap (next time); exterior grade plywood wd have worked better (but more money); more cross ventilation, could have used passive garage roof vents w/ insect screens; door end grain will soak up water if you do NOT SEAL/coat it. You do need a drip edge over the door (since it doesn’t have a regular jamb and head); better to use a deck grade exterior translucent wood stain sealer, not a house paint (coating) per se.
Thanks very much sir for your free learning experience 😊appreciate the time and effort you put into the build, the videos of the build and the going over the bits that weren't quite right. Looking to start my own soon. Much appreciated 👍
Great video, thank you. I remember reading somewhere that any unoccupied space which won't be heated should be considered as outside and adequate airflow should be allowed for. A good example is a loft or shed. I ended up using stainless steel insect mesh for the soffits of the shed I built. My door bowed the same though. :)
Refreshing to see someone point out problems with their own work! I've been building an insulated home office. Getting the ventilation vs condensation balance within the walls in my biggest concern. Time will tell I guess.
Successful persons had encountered many mistakes before they made it successfully. Sharing and showing errors will inspire others not to do the same mistakes. Liked and subscribed. Watching from Borneo.
Good on you mate, for taking the time to update us on how your shed is going. Please keep us updated after next winter to see if the spores situation has actually been resolved 😉👍
Nice shed and thanks for the video's & tips 🍻 cheers. Im boulding a shed now too, it was a desire for many years becose my house is to small to have a workplace for my hobbys.. Its why im insulating it on the cheap to keep the condensation-moister out and keep my machines&tools dry. For a storage-shed its not really needed. Paint and such cannot stand heat&frost tough..! 😉 Greetings from the netherlands.
A friend of mine went to a scrapyard. Bought one of those roof fans off an old vehicle. Like butcher, fish vans. Window cleaner vehicles. Normal wind moved it. Kept air moving inside. I use old computer fans 12 and 5 volt ones. Battery, solar or wall wart powered.
Thanks for the shed instructions, how to build your own storage place and your technical realistic evaluation after one year update. Very significant to learn and to evade mistakes. As I plan to build my own shed this spring/summer, I will use your tips handling with moisture. Best regards from the continent, from Germany.
Much respect to you for sharing this, shows you are humble and down to earth, I love your work and how you explain in simple terms what you are doing and why at each step.. liked and subbed
Every video you improve cinematically and I am always more than impressed. Live reconstruction with audio, Dylan b-role, what’s next? Outstanding as always
Great video thanks for the open approach to what’s worked and what hasn’t. One minor point, you shouldn’t store paint in the shed if the temperature is going to drop below zero, the paint will go all horrible. Might be better keeping it in the garage or somewhere where it can’t get frosted
Cheers. It's only water based paint that spoils, oil based is generally fine. Most of the paint in the shed was left by previous owner so I don't really mind if it spoils as we don't really like the colours 😂
Some great tips there. I used the same soffit vents along my workshop soffits front & back inbetween the rafters. I also stuck some insect mesh on the backside of the vents to protect against bugs
Well done for making the shed. Watching your videos and other UA-camr videos on shed building has inspired me to build my own shed, now almost completed. On the subject of making mistakes, everyone makes mistakes its human nature. As the saying goes "Practice makes perfect".
Good video on review & repair. I think your door could do with some drip rail above & below. The open endgrain will wick up rain and contribute to swelling & bowing. You would be amazed how deep it will soak in. Leave a plank in a bucket of coloured water!!
Thanks for doing this follow video Keith. Regarding the airflow issue most commercial sheds overlook this entirely; the best vent I’ve seen was Peter Parfitt’s on the new Brit workshop - he included stainless mesh to keep out birds and insects. You definitely need a dry wood store though mate - would make a good project vid I think 😀
Have bought a new shed myself, only had a few months and at its highest point at the front the wood was getting very winter in last couple of winter months! The shed came with a gap all the along the lowest end, very frustrating! I too assuming to add extra vents. The people I bought it from verbally shrugged it off. Should be no reason but moisture does whatever it likes! Good video, would liked to have had a crack at my own but voted no confidence 😂
I´m thinking about to build a garden shed and your videos has been very usefull to me.Living in northwest Spain(probably most rainy than UK in winter) moisture is one of my biggest concerns. In some situations the only thing you can do with moisture is learn to live with,...and a dehumidifier too.Anyway,I will keep in mind all your advices.
I'd say your mould is caused more significantly during cold and frost ontop of the roof causing moisture to collect and freeze underneath causing trouble then when it thaws,i had a mould issue with my shed caused by a lack of air flow underneath it so once I jacked it up it resolved
I have had my shed for many years (since the winter of 99) it was a shell with 4 sides, no roof or floor, just earth, when I inherited it , So I laid a floor down using paving slabs. Then put carpet tiles on top. I strengthened the sides, with an internal top frame, put 1" ply on the roof. That lasted for a number of years, then water started to rot parts of it. That started a chain of events, once I started to replace parts of the roof. Water started penetrating the roof, so its been refelted a few times, finally settling on plastic tarpaulin for it That stopped the water getting in. It became dry an water proof, so now I got mould, no ventilation, so I gotta put vents in for circulation. (Latest job to do) I joined it up with a lean-to, still seperate, but with a gap thro the top. Over the years I have made my own door, Strengthened that, installed ready made window frames. Then they started to go, so I made my own, even extended the front by 13". The roof was already over hanging by 13". So I simply put a new front in front of the old one. Then when it was finished, took the old one down. Then I could set up a metal bench in the extra space. Recladded the front, more recently (in 23) So it's seen a lotta changes. It's an on going process. Remember folks, a shed is for life, not just for Christmas or Summer...
I can’t thank you enough for this series of videos. I’m planning to build a potting shed mostly out of reclaimed materials. Like you I probably would have thought two vents would be enough. But now I know the problems you’ve had with mould, I will definitely put it extra ones in. You have probably saved me a whole world of hurt. Also although mine will be a different size to yours and being a potting shed will require a slightly different spec, the basic construction will be like yours. Thank you for sharing your design but most of all, sharing the things that could have been better. I’ll let you know how I get on 👍🏼
The key to ventilation in any structure without any forced ventilation is the use of convection currents. Vents up high as well as down low will increase ventilation massively, even on days where there’s no real breeze. If you can make sure there’s vents up and down, at all sides of a structure you’re very unlikely to have any issues. A small fan running off a usb power pack will be enough to ventilate the place soon after construction, when the tantalising carrier is vaporising.
Hi Keith. In case you also have things you don't want to freeze (i.e paint) you can get a small solarpanel solution with a build in fan. These are made for small summer cottages and similar building typically not used during the winter and with no heat source. The panel makes enough dry warm air to keep the inside dry and frost free. They cost around 200 GBP
Also fairly simple to make, search UA-cam or Google for DIY solar air heater. Basically a network of metal tube (made from old beer cans) painted matt black
Tanalised or pressure treated timber still needs a preservative especially where you've cut it, pour water on it and you'll see it soak in, treat it with a good oil based preservative (modern ones are rubbish) and the water runs off, it also prevents mold.
@@RagnBoneBrown It does benefit from it, the wood will fade to a dirty grey and get darker as the years go on, no matter what preservative you put on at that stage it will look a muddy dark colour, putting a harvest gold or light brown oil base on when it's new will keep it's colour if you give it a coat every 5 or so years, there is also a great difference in quality of treatment, some are absolutely rubbish and not much better than plain wood, i coat every joint before i assemble.
I live in South Texas where it is hot and humid. I have two large vent intakes (20" x30") low on the side that open to a shaded area (the house is on this side and only about 18" away. I also have a solar vent under a whirly bird on the roof to pull hot air out the top. Of note I insulated the inside and put up a radiant barrier and it is about 10 degrees F cooler in the summer inside the shed than the ambient temperature outside and have not had problems with mold.
Keith - hats off /kudos to you for this video 🙂 I have watched your videos of the build and have watched others I live in Cape Town - from watching all these videos - I built 2 of my own sheds 🙂 Forgive me but what leaves me gobsmacked is you not wanting to seal the wood common wood seal especially on end gain - does not cost that much , in context of shed built , and it is not for the looks - it is for the fact I do not plan to destroy my sheds and rebuild them just because water has gotten into the wood
Passive ventilation will likely not be enough. Put a fan in the shed blowing around - doesn't need to blow out of or into the shed. Moving air holds more moisture and will prevent it from condensing. If that isn't effective, then you can step up to an exhaust fan through the wall of the shed. The final step would be a dehumidifier if that doesn't work.
Good video. TBH I think you can do all the correct constructive stuff with breathable membranes, ventilation up the ying yang and you will still get ‘condensation’ or moisture related problems in a shed in the winter. It is all down to the prevailing temperature, humidity levels and associated dew point. You either have to heat the shed so that is above the dew point, run a dehumidifier or both. You cannot fight physics.
As much as it sucks, I’d personally paint it just so it lasts. I don’t wanna rebuild and paint offers a high amount of protection for a long while without maintenance.
Another theory on how the moisture got in - when you do your final lawn mowing of the Autumn, the grass can often be wet and then makes your lawn mower and other tools wet, which then evaporates into the shed unless tools are well cleaned off.
I have the same issue my shed turned mouldy inside - I have now decided to strip it back to the frame - sheet it with OSB and then wrap it in tyvek , then use inch x2 strips and clad to the strips giving a constant air gap. leasons learned.
Invest in a dehumidifier. If you have no electric in the shed you can run a cable from the house. You can run a pipe from the dehumidifier to the outside to save having to empty the water container.
I wouldn't be too hard on myself about these problems. I have seen the same and worse issues with bought sheds. Once the shed has had a summer for the wood to totally dry out you shouldn't see any more mould especially now you have more ventilation. To remove the mould staining an oxalic acid based cleaner works well. You can solve the bowing door issue by just dismantling the door and re-spacing the ship lap, you need have a one mm gap on each board. This will also allow you to re-plane the door edge more accurately to get your five mm expansion gap.
We bought a prebuilt one 10x12 and the vents were basically completely open on the overhang area. Since there is no ventilation from ground you need pretty significant breathing for the shed else the spores will come back.
😂 looks like Dylan hopes you caught the mouldy ceiling soon enough as well. Love the 1000 yard stare he has. Looks like you could be right with the treated timber being the issue. I was drying some the other day in a stack and one of the empty knot holes got covered in mould.
Very interesting video as always. Just to give you some feedback, I rebuilt a large roof over 2 sheds last summer, connecting the 2 into 1 big shed. The roof overhangs on all sides. I didn't bother filling all the gaps allowing lots of air through. When winter hit (especially when it snowed) I had loads of problems with condensation. I had to close up virtually all of my gaps and reduce air flow. This fixed my issues within a week and has been winter tested. My suggestion would be close your roof vents, but add some low wall and perhaps a door vent. This works well for me (although I don't have any actual vents just areas at the bottom of my doors that are open by about an inch or 2). Another great video and thanks for telling us about your issues.
I appreciate the input but I believe the idea is to remove warm air inside the shed and try to get the inside the same temperature as the outside so condensation cannot form. I don't understand how sealing up and preventing airflow through the space can possibly help?
@@RagnBoneBrown No worries, my feedback is based 100% on experience and 0% on knowledge. I suppose we will both find out how our ventilation works this winter, fingers crossed they both work! Keep up the great work.
Ah I forgot to mention my theory. I think that having high ventilation allows cold damp air into a comparatively (by a couple of degrees) warm shed. The roof of the shed is still at outside temperatures, I think the cold damp air then settles on the cold roof and condenses. I think this is effectively working in the same manor as a dehumidifier. There you go that is my theory. Perhaps someone else knows more and can offer either a better explanation or a more experience bit of feedback.
Damp ship lap would be a reasonable cause of most of the mould. Do check you are not getting condensation on the underside of your roof, come the old season again. Good job.
5:00 Wet timber? Possibly. I remember being surprised when my granddad told me that he'd read that carports were better than garages for preventing rust on cars. If you've put all those extra vents in, you've probably got it fixed. Hope so!
I know what you mean about the frustration of not being able to source materials, I found some cheap timber, and posts and bought everything I need for building a wooden retaining wall, for a tiered area on my sloped garden. I then found out everywhere near to me is completely sold out of cement products due to the apparent Global shortage, which has pretty much killed the project for now... I was not a happy bunny....lol
Wow! Beautiful design. The door is too pretty to paint. I would put Kilz primer and paint on the ceiling. I think you need some edging tape by AZEK that seals the outer eaves and put eaves flashing for eaves and skirt. That could prevent moisture for ceiling and floor. My contractors caused my problems so I'm learning to fix them.
Greetings from West Norfolk, last winter seemed particularly bad for mould. My van sat for a month unused, when I opened it up the steering wheel had a good coating of mould as did a lot of the hard plastics.
Put a price of 2x2 on the inside of the top, bottom, and middle rails, if any are slightly bowed then put the bow the opposite way. You would gain more if the 2x2 was bowed as well. Could also use angle iron or 2x2 box steel. This will prevent it from bowing it the first place. Regards Alan
How about a few relief cuts with the circulat saw set to sufficient cladding depth on the door. Mold spores go very deep. You are mitigating the standard causes but try Concrobium Mold Control to kill the deeper spores, think of the them like Ivy rhizomes running underground.
I built my shed with corrugated onduline roofing with a supported overhang and eaves and it creates natural ventilation. No mould or condensation in 4 years. Good as new. My only regret is not putting some breathable membrane between the frame and the featheredge but that is okay so far.
Mad respect for admitting mistakes and showing growth. Too many instructional channels/personalities show only picture perfect, pimped out final versions of stuff they do creating unrealistic creativity image leading to frustration and disappointment among beginners. True Specialists Make Mistakes!
Everyone makes mistakes - best way to learn sometimes
Thank you
My best friend had the saying: 'He who never made a mistake never made anything'.
He proved the veracity of this by running off with my first wife!
However, as things turned out (I've celebrated over 50 years with my second wife) he did prove he was my best friend.
Coincidentally I just watched a Steve Ramsey video of his outdoor patio table one year on. It was a mess (which he managed to save). Like you he identified errors and mishaps.
I only wish more YT woodworkers would do that
A man who never made a mistake, Never made anything.
Very true sir
I built a shed three years ago and had similar air flow issues
Also learnt lots in doing so. Thanks for the honest reflection, not everything perfect all the time. Very similar to my efforts…..
Put angle iron horizontally across the inside of the door in 3 locations ... will stop the door from bowing and straighten it out. Use carriage bolts from the out side to the inside for security.
Yep, three strong backs.
Angle iron may stop the bowing, but will cause worse issues. The horizontal ledge bowing gives the individual boards somewhere to go as they expand sideways. Think of it like an old bi-metallic strip. Remove that ability to bow, and with nowhere left to go, the vertical boards will buckle and come away from the iron.
The only way to stop timber expanding is to stop it taking on moisture, hard with T&G boards. A thorough finishing, with end grain sealer on the top and bottom of the door is the best you can do.
Dealing with moisture is absolutely one of the most difficult things to master. You've done a great job with the shed and a few minor setbacks are what life is all about!
Now in 2023 I dread to think what the timber cost would be. However when you look at the price of new “and” very poorly manufactured sheds, building your own is still a very good option… thanks for sharing 👍🍻
Hi Keith, I'm no expert but had the same problem over a wet winter in a new workshop / shed years ago. The fix that worked for me was to add vents both high and at floor level so the cold air coming in low pushes the warm air holding the water out the top. I also added a little cheap solar fan high up. Never had a problem again. Thanks for the useful videos.
Cheers may have to try that if what I've done doesn't work 👍
Nice to see your honest follow-up. Good ventilation is really the key to fixing the mould. The vents are useful but it may be even better to add some mechanical assistance. Here in Australia, we have things like the “Whirleybird” that uses wind movement to extract inside air, allowing air to be drawn in those vents you installed. You may have something similar over there. I love your various videos.
Roof vents various types are used a lot over here.
That's a great idea. Free extraction - can't argue with that! I'm going to add one to my shed build. Thanks and love from the UK.
I built my own workshop some years ago, same problem. I hadn't been in there for a while (winter months), and was shocked to find all my tools had come down with orange fever (rust). I had condensation literally dripping from the roof🤔. I managed to solve the problem by putting in vents top and bottom of the side wall with 4 inch extractor fans on the opposing walls, which I then linked to a timer which was set to run for 15 minutes per day. Success.. problem solved, Job done.😉
It is one thing to see someone building a shed, but it is so much more valuable to see which problems can occure and what can be done to prevent it. Great videos, thanks a lot!!
Thank you
I watched yours, Liam Griffin’s and Ali Dymock’s videos to give me the confidence to build my own 12x10ft shed last year, they were all fab resources. I’ve had the same issue with condensation, my shed is also wrapped with breathable membrane so even less air flow. I used similar products to get rid of the mould and have the same staining left over. I also treated the underside of my roof ply with sika 5 star wood treatment and am hoping this winter will be a lot better. I use a Neos SmartHome leak sensor which also detects humidity to give me an idea of when to open the windows/door to prevent it from happening again. I installed a shower extractor fan too but didn’t see much effect of that to be honest and also have painted the shed with no nonsense shed paint so that the shed doesn’t soak up so much moisture when it’s raining. Just sharing similar experiences.
I put a piece of angle flashing on the threshold of the doorway of my shed to protect, it works pretty well and looks good.
Your reconstruction made me giggle.
Came here to say the same thing
Keith, thanks for sharing this one. The shed still looks good and so does your 'lucky shorts'.
I had almost forgotten about them. If you decide to paint, don't wear them. They must be protected you know.
Haha cheers. I already got some wood stain on them 🤦🏻♂️
Love the Little Owl.
Love the honesty mate. It’s a constant learning process. Been with you on YT for many years and enjoy your videos. Cheers
@0:38
Identicle to the sound of an electric planer. Incredible!
Great video! I have a suggestion for the mold issue. You can attach a cheap low voltage computer fan inside to those round soffit vent covers. They can easily run on batteries, but the most effective thing to do is attach a small (6"x6") solar panel to each of them so they're automatically running every day from dawn until dusk.
Good tip!
To blow out wet air or suck inn dry air?
@@tehans77 surely it's to blow air with moisture in it out and then suck drier air in from other sources
When I built my workshop I put down a layer of thick damp course plastic underneath the floor. I am convinced that it prevents damp air rising through the floor. This way it is easier to ventilate the space because you only need to worry about ventilating warm air inside the shed and not warm air from below the floor rising up and condensing. Its been up 2 years now and I haven't had any mould at all which I'm quite surprised about. I put 1 trickle vent on the window which is always open located towards the ceiling. I do have a window that opens but through the winter it stays closed. One thing I would suggest is to add some polystyrene insulation to the inside roof sections as you did in your original workshop. At least that way if warm air condenses on the ceiling....it will be on the polystyrene and not on the ply. The closed cell structure of polystyrene prevents water penetration.
Good video on learning from mistakes. The comments about this being an unheated structure are correct (closed cell insulation would have helped, but yes more money.) .Best practices follow regular house framing if you want to avoid rot, vapor intrusion and mold: polyethylene vapor barrier (plastic sheeting ) at the floor deck and on the walls like a tyvek wall wrap (next time); exterior grade plywood wd have worked better (but more money); more cross ventilation, could have used passive garage roof vents w/ insect screens; door end grain will soak up water if you do NOT SEAL/coat it. You do need a drip edge over the door (since it doesn’t have a regular jamb and head); better to use a deck grade exterior translucent wood stain sealer, not a house paint (coating) per se.
Thanks very much sir for your free learning experience 😊appreciate the time and effort you put into the build, the videos of the build and the going over the bits that weren't quite right. Looking to start my own soon. Much appreciated 👍
Great video, thank you.
I remember reading somewhere that any unoccupied space which won't be heated should be considered as outside and adequate airflow should be allowed for.
A good example is a loft or shed.
I ended up using stainless steel insect mesh for the soffits of the shed I built.
My door bowed the same though. :)
Wow, 12 months flew by...😳
I also had a similar situation with my ceiling, insulation fixed that problem quick smart...
We all know you still make that noise when the planer is running ;-)
🤣 cheers Tim
@@RagnBoneBrown I must say I now look forward to your reconstructions 😂😂😂😂
Refreshing to see someone point out problems with their own work! I've been building an insulated home office. Getting the ventilation vs condensation balance within the walls in my biggest concern. Time will tell I guess.
Successful persons had encountered many mistakes before they made it successfully. Sharing and showing errors will inspire others not to do the same mistakes. Liked and subscribed. Watching from Borneo.
I love the reconstruction! You wonderful dork! 😁
Good on you mate, for taking the time to update us on how your shed is going. Please keep us updated after next winter to see if the spores situation has actually been resolved 😉👍
Nice shed and thanks for the video's & tips 🍻 cheers.
Im boulding a shed now too, it was a desire for many years becose my house is to small to have a workplace for my hobbys.. Its why im insulating it on the cheap to keep the condensation-moister out and keep my machines&tools dry.
For a storage-shed its not really needed. Paint and such cannot stand heat&frost tough..! 😉
Greetings from the netherlands.
A friend of mine went to a scrapyard. Bought one of those roof fans off an old vehicle. Like butcher, fish vans. Window cleaner vehicles. Normal wind moved it. Kept air moving inside. I use old computer fans 12 and 5 volt ones. Battery, solar or wall wart powered.
Cheers. I have no power in the shed its about 20m from the house so not practical
Use a solar panel charger through a rechargeable battery. It'll vent in daylight
Thanks for the shed instructions, how to build your own storage place and your technical realistic evaluation after one year update. Very significant to learn and to evade mistakes. As I plan to build my own shed this spring/summer, I will use your tips handling with moisture. Best regards from the continent, from Germany.
Much respect to you for sharing this, shows you are humble and down to earth, I love your work and how you explain in simple terms what you are doing and why at each step.. liked and subbed
Nice, will definitely come back and take a look at your in-depth videos when we begin our shed project. Thanks
Every video you improve cinematically and I am always more than impressed. Live reconstruction with audio, Dylan b-role, what’s next? Outstanding as always
Great video thanks for the open approach to what’s worked and what hasn’t. One minor point, you shouldn’t store paint in the shed if the temperature is going to drop below zero, the paint will go all horrible. Might be better keeping it in the garage or somewhere where it can’t get frosted
Cheers. It's only water based paint that spoils, oil based is generally fine. Most of the paint in the shed was left by previous owner so I don't really mind if it spoils as we don't really like the colours 😂
Some great tips there. I used the same soffit vents along my workshop soffits front & back inbetween the rafters. I also stuck some insect mesh on the backside of the vents to protect against bugs
That's a good idea, I think I have some left over rodent mesh so I might do that too. The less spiders getting in the better!!
Well done for making the shed. Watching your videos and other UA-camr videos on shed building has inspired me to build my own shed, now almost completed. On the subject of making mistakes, everyone makes mistakes its human nature. As the saying goes "Practice makes perfect".
Clear, simple and honest feedback on your work we can all apply with our projects. Thank you.
Thank you for sharing the good and the bad of your projects. Nice clip of Dylan, he's looking sweet as always 🙂
Put a cap over the door opening to prevent rain hitting the endgrain of the shiplap, you will now need a drip groove in the cap timber
I'm pretty sure there is enough overhang to prevent rain getting in above the door
Good video on review & repair. I think your door could do with some drip rail above & below. The open endgrain will wick up rain and contribute to swelling & bowing. You would be amazed how deep it will soak in. Leave a plank in a bucket of coloured water!!
Cheers John, I like the idea of a drip rail at the bottom, I don't think the too really needs it as there's plenty of roof overhang
@@RagnBoneBrown cheers Keith if the top is swelling too, then add one, anything to stop water wicking in
Thanks for doing this follow video Keith. Regarding the airflow issue most commercial sheds overlook this entirely; the best vent I’ve seen was Peter Parfitt’s on the new Brit workshop - he included stainless mesh to keep out birds and insects.
You definitely need a dry wood store though mate - would make a good project vid I think 😀
Have bought a new shed myself, only had a few months and at its highest point at the front the wood was getting very winter in last couple of winter months! The shed came with a gap all the along the lowest end, very frustrating! I too assuming to add extra vents. The people I bought it from verbally shrugged it off. Should be no reason but moisture does whatever it likes! Good video, would liked to have had a crack at my own but voted no confidence 😂
Your honesty makes it all complete. Enjoyed and subscribed l.
I´m thinking about to build a garden shed and your videos has been very usefull to me.Living in northwest Spain(probably most rainy than UK in winter) moisture is one of my biggest concerns.
In some situations the only thing you can do with moisture is learn to live with,...and a dehumidifier too.Anyway,I will keep in mind all your advices.
Hello!!!! I'm from Norfolk too, near King's Lynn. Amazing to see another local pop up in my recommended! Keep it up
I'd say your mould is caused more significantly during cold and frost ontop of the roof causing moisture to collect and freeze underneath causing trouble then when it thaws,i had a mould issue with my shed caused by a lack of air flow underneath it so once I jacked it up it resolved
I have had my shed for many years (since the winter of 99) it was a shell with 4 sides, no roof or floor, just earth, when I inherited it , So I laid a floor down using paving slabs. Then put carpet tiles on top.
I strengthened the sides, with an internal top frame, put 1" ply on the roof.
That lasted for a number of years, then water started to rot parts of it. That started a chain of events, once I started to replace parts of the roof.
Water started penetrating the roof, so its been refelted a few times, finally settling on plastic tarpaulin for it
That stopped the water getting in. It became dry an water proof, so now I got mould, no ventilation, so I gotta put vents in for circulation. (Latest job to do)
I joined it up with a lean-to, still seperate, but with a gap thro the top.
Over the years I have made my own door, Strengthened that, installed ready made window frames. Then they started to go, so I made my own, even extended the front by 13".
The roof was already over hanging by 13". So I simply put a new front in front of the old one. Then when it was finished, took the old one down.
Then I could set up a metal bench in the extra space.
Recladded the front, more recently (in 23)
So it's seen a lotta changes.
It's an on going process.
Remember folks, a shed is for life, not just for Christmas or Summer...
I can’t thank you enough for this series of videos. I’m planning to build a potting shed mostly out of reclaimed materials. Like you I probably would have thought two vents would be enough. But now I know the problems you’ve had with mould, I will definitely put it extra ones in. You have probably saved me a whole world of hurt. Also although mine will be a different size to yours and being a potting shed will require a slightly different spec, the basic construction will be like yours. Thank you for sharing your design but most of all, sharing the things that could have been better. I’ll let you know how I get on 👍🏼
How's the potting shed job doing?
just about to attempt my own shed build. a good few hints and tips. thank you
Shed Bloke! Brilliant! What a very informative video.
turn the bowed supports around and the door will strighten..thanks for your gr8 vids
The key to ventilation in any structure without any forced ventilation is the use of convection currents.
Vents up high as well as down low will increase ventilation massively, even on days where there’s no real breeze.
If you can make sure there’s vents up and down, at all sides of a structure you’re very unlikely to have any issues.
A small fan running off a usb power pack will be enough to ventilate the place soon after construction, when the tantalising carrier is vaporising.
Hi Keith. In case you also have things you don't want to freeze (i.e paint) you can get a small solarpanel solution with a build in fan. These are made for small summer cottages and similar building typically not used during the winter and with no heat source. The panel makes enough dry warm air to keep the inside dry and frost free. They cost around 200 GBP
Sounds good, but too expensive
Also fairly simple to make, search UA-cam or Google for DIY solar air heater. Basically a network of metal tube (made from old beer cans) painted matt black
Tanalised or pressure treated timber still needs a preservative especially where you've cut it, pour water on it and you'll see it soak in, treat it with a good oil based preservative (modern ones are rubbish) and the water runs off, it also prevents mold.
It needs a preserver where you expose new wood, yes, but not where you don't
@@RagnBoneBrown It does benefit from it, the wood will fade to a dirty grey and get darker as the years go on, no matter what preservative you put on at that stage it will look a muddy dark colour, putting a harvest gold or light brown oil base on when it's new will keep it's colour if you give it a coat every 5 or so years, there is also a great difference in quality of treatment, some are absolutely rubbish and not much better than plain wood, i coat every joint before i assemble.
Good review...you are 100% correct better to learn from other's mistakes than your own. I have made plenty...Good job.
🐼 Big Bear Hugs from a 67 yr old grandma in Kirby, Texas, USA 🐼 🖤🖤🖤
Good update Keith! and nice capture of the owl :) Thanks for always sharing with us!💖👌👍😎JP
I live in South Texas where it is hot and humid. I have two large vent intakes (20" x30") low on the side that open to a shaded area (the house is on this side and only about 18" away. I also have a solar vent under a whirly bird on the roof to pull hot air out the top. Of note I insulated the inside and put up a radiant barrier and it is about 10 degrees F cooler in the summer inside the shed than the ambient temperature outside and have not had problems with mold.
Fabulous vid thanks,just finishing my build and your info will be VERY helpful !!
Keith - hats off /kudos to you for this video 🙂
I have watched your videos of the build and have watched others
I live in Cape Town - from watching all these videos - I built 2 of my own sheds 🙂
Forgive me but what leaves me gobsmacked is you not wanting to seal the wood
common wood seal especially on end gain - does not cost that much , in context of shed built , and it is not for the looks - it is for the fact I do not plan to destroy my sheds and rebuild them just because water has gotten into the wood
Wood lasts longer when it can breathe. It needs to absorb moisture and dry out
Passive ventilation will likely not be enough. Put a fan in the shed blowing around - doesn't need to blow out of or into the shed. Moving air holds more moisture and will prevent it from condensing. If that isn't effective, then you can step up to an exhaust fan through the wall of the shed. The final step would be a dehumidifier if that doesn't work.
Running 20m of electrical cable from the house just to have a fan there isn't really practical
Good video. TBH I think you can do all the correct constructive stuff with breathable membranes, ventilation up the ying yang and you will still get ‘condensation’ or moisture related problems in a shed in the winter. It is all down to the prevailing temperature, humidity levels and associated dew point. You either have to heat the shed so that is above the dew point, run a dehumidifier or both. You cannot fight physics.
Thumbs up for the reconstruction and sound effects..
6:52 Purrfect cameo! Appreciate the follow-up video.
The planer reconstruction had me laughing out loud! Well done!
Thank you for taking the time to make this
As much as it sucks, I’d personally paint it just so it lasts. I don’t wanna rebuild and paint offers a high amount of protection for a long while without maintenance.
Liked seeing the problems you encountered and solved. 😍🇺🇸
Another theory on how the moisture got in - when you do your final lawn mowing of the Autumn, the grass can often be wet and then makes your lawn mower and other tools wet, which then evaporates into the shed unless tools are well cleaned off.
I have the same issue my shed turned mouldy inside - I have now decided to strip it back to the frame - sheet it with OSB and then wrap it in tyvek , then use inch x2 strips and clad to the strips giving a constant air gap. leasons learned.
Invest in a dehumidifier. If you have no electric in the shed you can run a cable from the house. You can run a pipe from the dehumidifier to the outside to save having to empty the water container.
Not practical, the shed is far away from the house, and not necessary, see update here ua-cam.com/video/aREO6-XvOZA/v-deo.html
I wouldn't be too hard on myself about these problems. I have seen the same and worse issues with bought sheds. Once the shed has had a summer for the wood to totally dry out you shouldn't see any more mould especially now you have more ventilation. To remove the mould staining an oxalic acid based cleaner works well. You can solve the bowing door issue by just dismantling the door and re-spacing the ship lap, you need have a one mm gap on each board. This will also allow you to re-plane the door edge more accurately to get your five mm expansion gap.
your reconstrution is on point mate 👍🤣
Best thing to counter mold is 1 x white vinegar mix with 5 x water .cheap and effective.
Thanks for sharing the learning process.
We bought a prebuilt one 10x12 and the vents were basically completely open on the overhang area.
Since there is no ventilation from ground you need pretty significant breathing for the shed else the spores will come back.
I'd build a steeper roof. That should make for more cold to warm circulation. Your shed does look good,
That roof is pitched just fine IMO. More dead air space wouldn't matter without a ceiling either.
Very informative video , Dylan was watching you questioning , i think it was the short pans !!!!!!!!!! Cool video !!!!!!!!!!!!
Good job, useful video. Like the owl. And the planer.
I haven't watched it, but I like it already.
I bought a plastic shed. Not cheap but I have to say it’s been fantastic. Avoids all the wood associated problems.
😂 looks like Dylan hopes you caught the mouldy ceiling soon enough as well. Love the 1000 yard stare he has.
Looks like you could be right with the treated timber being the issue. I was drying some the other day in a stack and one of the empty knot holes got covered in mould.
Very interesting video as always. Just to give you some feedback, I rebuilt a large roof over 2 sheds last summer, connecting the 2 into 1 big shed. The roof overhangs on all sides. I didn't bother filling all the gaps allowing lots of air through. When winter hit (especially when it snowed) I had loads of problems with condensation. I had to close up virtually all of my gaps and reduce air flow. This fixed my issues within a week and has been winter tested. My suggestion would be close your roof vents, but add some low wall and perhaps a door vent. This works well for me (although I don't have any actual vents just areas at the bottom of my doors that are open by about an inch or 2).
Another great video and thanks for telling us about your issues.
I appreciate the input but I believe the idea is to remove warm air inside the shed and try to get the inside the same temperature as the outside so condensation cannot form. I don't understand how sealing up and preventing airflow through the space can possibly help?
@@RagnBoneBrown No worries, my feedback is based 100% on experience and 0% on knowledge. I suppose we will both find out how our ventilation works this winter, fingers crossed they both work! Keep up the great work.
Ah I forgot to mention my theory. I think that having high ventilation allows cold damp air into a comparatively (by a couple of degrees) warm shed. The roof of the shed is still at outside temperatures, I think the cold damp air then settles on the cold roof and condenses. I think this is effectively working in the same manor as a dehumidifier. There you go that is my theory. Perhaps someone else knows more and can offer either a better explanation or a more experience bit of feedback.
Great update on the shed, thanks for the info. I hope those yellow shorts show up as merch on your website!! 😂🤘Not even joking!!
Damp ship lap would be a reasonable cause of most of the mould. Do check you are not getting condensation on the underside of your roof, come the old season again. Good job.
5:00 Wet timber? Possibly.
I remember being surprised when my granddad told me that he'd read that carports were better than garages for preventing rust on cars. If you've put all those extra vents in, you've probably got it fixed. Hope so!
I know what you mean about the frustration of not being able to source materials, I found some cheap timber, and posts and bought everything I need for building a wooden retaining wall, for a tiered area on my sloped garden. I then found out everywhere near to me is completely sold out of cement products due to the apparent Global shortage, which has pretty much killed the project for now... I was not a happy bunny....lol
Wow! Beautiful design. The door is too pretty to paint. I would put Kilz primer and paint on the ceiling. I think you need some edging tape by AZEK that seals the outer eaves and put eaves flashing for eaves and skirt. That could prevent moisture for ceiling and floor. My contractors caused my problems so I'm learning to fix them.
All your advice was very helpful. Thanks
I'm living for those kitty cameo's.😍
Great content as always, really valuable information.
Greetings from West Norfolk, last winter seemed particularly bad for mould. My van sat for a month unused, when I opened it up the steering wheel had a good coating of mould as did a lot of the hard plastics.
just like melbourne australia. the price of timber has gone crazy. great videos by the way.
A couple coats of a good primer on the osb floor will resolve mildew growth and such as well
I put humidifiers in my shed to collect condensation , the throw away type , I also put them in my metal cupboards as metal condensates in winter .
I used dpc on my shed a few years ago and it seemed to work well.
Put a price of 2x2 on the inside of the top, bottom, and middle rails, if any are slightly bowed then put the bow the opposite way. You would gain more if the 2x2 was bowed as well. Could also use angle iron or 2x2 box steel. This will prevent it from bowing it the first place. Regards Alan
How about a few relief cuts with the circulat saw set to sufficient cladding depth on the door. Mold spores go very deep. You are mitigating the standard causes but try Concrobium Mold Control to kill the deeper spores, think of the them like Ivy rhizomes running underground.
I built my shed with corrugated onduline roofing with a supported overhang and eaves and it creates natural ventilation. No mould or condensation in 4 years. Good as new. My only regret is not putting some breathable membrane between the frame and the featheredge but that is okay so far.