BIG SHED: Floor
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- Опубліковано 25 жов 2024
- My brother needs a BIG shed, and in this video I am building the floor.
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This is the sort of thing i tune in for Keith, been with you since your first shed build .
Thank you!!
I saw these plastic pallets outside a local supermarket and asked if I could have them. They're waste! Sickening. Anyway, I also saw the potential as a shed floor so I'm collecting them until I have enough. I've never seen anyone else use them, and then, boom. Here you are!
Those plastic pallets are quite expensive and are almost always returned. It's odd they were trashing them if they weren't broken.
There's no way they should have been chucking them away unless they were broken.
Most retail send back empties on deliveries and they get reused and some even send them back to the supplier and get discounted stock from them in return.
@@jamessullivan3829 yes, they look reusable. They're completely solid. Unfortunately I suspect they're so cheap to produce they're considered disposable and not worth the cost of collection and reuse.
@@imaginitivity7853 that's just wasteful on the companies part. Where are they I'll take a few for my allotment 😁😊
Nice to see the mitre saw coming out of retirement!
It was pretty dusty!
Grand idea for the stop block!
Thanks!
Shed looks great chap 🤝🏼 I would recommend a set of collapsible trestle legs. Two lengths of 2x4 and a sheet of ply and you’ve got a great job site work bench. Look after your knees and back, don’t work on the floor 👍🏼👍🏼 all the best
Love the Calico cat doing its job supervising the job.
Well explained, well filmed, great job! Thanks!
Love the fact you use 4 miles of string to tie the wood to the roof rack in place of two ratchets straps 😂😂
Looks good, Keith - as you say, huge! I like your glamorous assistant in the tortoiseshell fur coat.
Marble says hi!
Keith you need to invest in a portable mitre saw stand. Some of them have an in built stop end for repeat cuts and they fold up pretty handy also
Looking good so far Keith. Can't wait for the next episode.
Ohh plans! This could be the time I finally build one lol
I'm about to start building a pallet shed, those plastic pallets as a base is a great one, where I work dumps loads of plastic pallets - guess where I'm going with my trailer tomorrow!!!!!
I built a log store, floor and sides from composite pallets only last week, secured together with 10mm zip ties then clad and a felted roof put on top, now filled with 2 tons of firewood briquettes. I understand using zip ties seems very odd but correcty placed and tightened they made the pallets into a rock solid base and 'frame'.
Hey Keith,
Maybe get some ratchet straps for delivering loads on the roof. I use them for custom gigs all the time, and they allow you to really get some good pressure on the goods.
Great video and rock on!
Greetings from Switzerland
It's called TGV because it's Tongue & Groove with a V cut going down between each plank. You can get tongue and groove which is just TG which doesn't have the V cut and is completely flat. One of the many things I remember from my carpentry apprenticeship years back although we referred to them as T+G and T+GV (TnG and TnGV). We're soon to move into our forever bungalow which has a massive garden out the back and I plan to build a long shed down one side of the garden that's a shed at one end and summer house at the other.
I used heavy duty plastic pallets that were not wanted anymore by work 7yrs ago for my shed base.... everything still looking good 👍
Good to hear! 👌
Hi Keith, I ended up putting my last shed on a concrete plinth at around 100mm think. Ended up being cheaper than timber. I reused the framing timber in sections of the roof.
I see a lot of roofers would tie a high Viz vest or towel off the back of their ladders when they are protruding off the back of their vans, which I think is a good idea for safety.
Your vids are really helping me to tackle building my own bike shed. Plus I enjoy watching them.
Thanks very much!
Those blue pallets make a very nice mouse habitat. LOL no way the cat will get them.
Probably rats and wasps too....
Looking great so far . Can’t wait to see it finished
really love the stop block idea Keith
Thanks buddy
It's looking great already, Keith! 😊
Looking forward to the next steps!
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Thanks 👍
Look at another big shed / play house structure myself so this is great timing. Should be a good series. 👍
Great video...! Will help when I decide to build my garden room. When I have time.
I look forward to building my shed next year, but for now I am taring the back off my house and building a two storey extension. Scary but fun.
Love a good shed build vid 👍👍
Instead of a ratchet, screw or nail a wedged offcut to a joist and whack in a wedge alongside it that squeezes the floorboards together
Thanks Keith, that was a very efficient process and the result was spot on, great to see you working with your brother again !
I used some plastic pallets for a shed base recently they were a different design and I filled the voids with crushed hardcore and gravel so they formed a very solid base but don't have the airflow that you have of course !
Thanks for all the effort you put into keeping us informed of your decision process and the relative costs of the different options you considered ! Looking forward to the rest of the series !
Thank you
Looking good so far, can't wait to see the rest of this shed build project, great video
Never thought I’d see the mitre saw again!
It's been out a few times
Yes...love a good shed build project
Not saying I'm an expert but everything I've watched on the subject proves it works buy burning the outside of your timber with a flamethrower or something helps protect the timber because the timber releases certain compounds or whatever which helps preserve the timber
Living in Chicago, this looks bigger than my apartment.
It probably is.
Dunno about Chicago but definitely so for nyc
Looking forward for the next part!
Working on it! 😁
Excellent video as always. Lots of useful information. Keep up the great work.
Great work
Great video as always, looking forward to more!
Much appreciated!
in the US, there's pressure-treated plywood. Comes wet and weighing like a concrete slab but it lasts a long time even right on the dirt.
The tongue and groove are offset from the centre so you fit it with the thick part up/out. This will allow the thickness to wear / get sanded and refinished
Cool that you have French bullet-train-themed flooring
@6.55 Back in the '70's when I studied Building Construction, TGV stood for 'Tongued, Grooved and V-jointed', referring to the V-spaced recess/joint produced when the boards are fitted together.
Great video Keith cant wait for part 2. Love from Nm, Usa
Good info on testing with the treatment of ends! Now when thinking about that, might be perfectly fine to just spread some PVA glue on to block the cells when they are exposed to weather. Or even paint.
I think TGV is so called as the join between two boards has a Vee chamfer
Correct, and it's not suitable for a floor. The V detail should be the face, and on a floor it will keep filling up with dust and debris.
Love the stop block 😂😂😂😂
The cordless nail gun and the drop saw 👌 on my list
Great little bit of kit for the workshop!
@@RagnBoneBrown 😂😂😂😂
The name TGV is because where the tongue and the groove is there's a chamfer on the front which is called the "V" joint. Helps with water runoff. Regular tongue and groove has a square edge on the face of the board🙏Could never guess that I'm a machinist 😂
That for external use, whereas for internal use it's because it creates a shadow gap which makes it seems like one seamless panel🤞And just for aesthetic purposes
Great video keith 😃
plastic pipes are good for the bottoms of your footings, posts. i use water or gas pipe to stand the wooden posts in then fill with concrete. lasts longer than than being in soil.
Cracking job there kieth gonna be building my wife a she studio some point soon so taking all tips and advice. Cracking video 🏴👍
The plastic pallets are a 'GREAT' idea. I'm sure someone can correct me if I'm wrong. The pallets are usually good for 1 ton, spread across the full surface. Unless you are going to park a truck in the shed, I don't think you will have any problems with floor loading.
FYI, TGV = tongue and groove v joint as you end up with a decorative v joint once the boards are fitted
Beat me to it 😊
It's always interesting to see how you build stuff, I get plenty of good ideas. With your stop block if it was me I would use a piece of chalk to draw along the end of it on the ground once set. It gives a good visual check that it hasn't moved.
Great use of plastic pallets I found some outside my local supermarket in France with some wooden ones, I took the lot but didn’t know what to do with them, I do now, I might fill the voids in the corner and centres with concrete to make them heavier and stronger too. Watch out for your nail gun at 4:46 it almost got you!
Nice work. It really is criminal (and scary) the price of wood - and it’s even more for straight stuff.😉
You actually read my mind thank you as always
Excellent. Picked up loads of tips.
Dude, where's your ratchet straps? I'm not surprised you get nervous with that blue twine!
I used to work in a supermarket and used a lot of those little plastic pallets they are a lot stronger than you think they are quite flimsy but if the load is spread evenly across them they will take a lot a lot of weight
Oh, a cliffhanger episode… at least there was cat guest appearance. Looking forward the next one.
Great work, only recently seen these shed base blocks, great invention.
Cute kitty on the trampoline!
As wood preserver showed poor quality over few years, alternative is to soak wood ends in fence paint and let it soak in few hours, should be ok to seal ends from weather.
Few mm out over big distance is a win !!
I'm from the US and had never heard of T&G for a shed, but it certainly makes a lot of sense.
BTW, I love the idea for the portable fence, I really do. But I'd be so paranoid about knocking it out incrementally with every new board.
I would only change a few small things.. I'd add a chalk line next to the stop so you could readily see if it gets moved. I would have dug small holes in the ground where the pallet "legs" are so that the load is spread over the rest of the pallet rather than sit on those "legs" which will sink randomly over time. I would nail and glue Everywhere not just nail.. I'm a belt and suspenders kind of guy. Last I'd paint or stain Everything before and/or during the build.
Looks good. I think I'd have put some sheeting down first and then the tongue and groove but unst which is better long term.
The tongue and groove is worth the extra effort, looks good.
It's good to know it isn't just those of us in the USA that suffer boomerang and banana boards masquerading as quality lumber.
These days you're lucky if you get anything close to straight. It's the price we pay for economy.
"Cheap" = rapid processing, and poor quality. But spending a fortune is no guarantee you'll get anything straighter.
Not just bent and warped, but also twisted along the length. My house was built with joists that are vertical at the middle, but twisted beyond 2 inches out of vertical at the ends.
@@bythelee Preach it brother!! The amount of time I have spent milling "S3S" lumber over the last few years has pushed me to not bother with it and just use rough sawn and do all my own milling. If you wand good you have to do it yourself.
Enjoy your content, look up a ‘diagonal lashing’ knot for attaching gear to your roof bars, absolutely solid
Thanks for the tip!
Lovely build series coming up!
Blimey, you two are alike.
great project
Great base build. I can seee some of the old patio pavers are supporting the blocks but what is underneath the other ones? Concrete or gravel or tamped down MOT type 1? I need to do something similar...
If you want the timber on the toof to be even more secure, you can put a little screw in the wood each side of the rope to prevent it sliding.
You can pick up some cheap ratchet straps for your roof rack which makes transporting stuff dead easy and secure
That is exactly the same experience I had with that kind of floor clamp. I don't think any brand does a better job. It is one of those things, it is invaluable and yet the biggest pain in the rear.
For a garden shed I guess the plastic pallets are ok. But they did look a bit flimsy when you stepped on them. Looking forward to seeing the rest of the build.
WOAH!! You told us all you'd got rid of the mitre saw 😂
Got rid of it ... From the workshop 👍
@@RagnBoneBrown that's cheating 😜
Osb3 would be fine. Just blackjack the edge grain. If it worries you put some wood cream or oil on the underside.
No dpm on top of the concrete blocks?
DPC on the blocks is a really bad idea as water will sit on it and soak in to the timber. OSB will not out last pressure treated timber
Keith! Can you suggest, and maybe demonstrate, a finishing technique that is weather proof and deals with the green tint?
What do you mean deals with it?
On the roof racks: Rag 'n' Bone Brown - "The Final Destination for woodworking!"
The 'V' in TGV is because the joint creates a V groove. Hence why T&G alone is a square edge joint.
The traditional creosote is still available but only to professionals like builders and agricultural workers.
Loving the videos boss! I need to know. What camera do you use when you’re filming your piece to camera sections? And what are you using as an autocue! Can see those eyes reading haha.
Panasonic S5 mk 2 with 24mm f1.8 and a cheap teleprompter from Amazon that holds my smartphone 👍 thanks
You can use that floorboard clamp to hold stuff on your van roof, rather than the 4 miles of rope! If not, please learn some knots, lol.
Fun Fact... Noggins in Scotland are called Dwangs
Those plastic pallets look like the ideal rats home, warm and dry. It would have probably been better to fill them full of concrete before the floor went down.
Mesh is easily added if needed ,it's really not a big problem
Those plastic pallets can range from 1000kg up to 2000kg+ in maximum loads.
nOOICE!
I'd say that screws snapping under shear forces means you're probably using a cheaper type of screw. I recommend you not use drywall screws, as they are often brittle and much more vulnerable to the various acids in wood, especially PT wood.
Deck screws -- which often look almost the same as drywall screws, for many cases -- are not much more expensive, but *much* more able to handle lateral ("Shear") stresses. For key spots, such as, perhaps, the joist framing itself, you might go for the more expensive structural screws. Those offer both considerably greater shear resistance but, even more critically, much more resistance to corrosion. They aren't cheap, but do offer considerable benefits when it comes to reliability and longevity. Structural screws for the joists, then deck screws for the... duh... deck. ;-)
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The downside to clamping them that tight would be that it does not deal with expansion. Not sure how much variation you have in weather where you're doing this, but that is not trivial. The boards might wind up peaking -- pushing/popping upwards where they meet -- if it gets much warmer than when you put them in -- again, not clear from the overall info you provide. This is why, when you put in an outdoor deck, you actually *_want_* at least an eighth of an inch (3mm) of expansion separation for the planks on an exterior deck, otherwise they may press into each other and force them to push up at the interaction. I'll be interested in hearing if there are any issues with high summer heat and the floor popping up. This is one of the primary advantages to using OSB and Plywood -- they tend to be, by the nature of their design, more dimensionally invariant within common temperature ranges. IF you are going to use T-I-G boards for this, the best bet would be to do so on one of the hottest days of the year, or, alternately, don't pull them together so tight, then use clear caulk or something to fill in the space so it doesn't collect crud.
I'll be posting a video soon which will prove that the decision to pull the boards together as tight as can be is a very sensible one.... And also, I don't use drywall screws
a shed is a shed its never gunna last like a house would.
TGV - tongue & groove, with a V shape groove on the face
There is no v groove on the face tho... There's just a chamfer🤷♂️
@@RagnBoneBrown the chamfer on each board when they're tight together should make a V
Just a quick thought: Why not using the pallets upside down? Earth is weaker than wood so the pallets would stay more horizontal, maybe besides it would have a little more ventilation? Looking forward to the next episodes, still very enjoyable.
Less surface area for the timber to hit
@@RagnBoneBrown Yes, but also less area where water could stay and let the timber rot. Maybe both is right and wrong on one side.
It's called tgv because when it's joined it has a v groove on the good face (aka a closed v ). You can also get an open v which creates a look like weatherboard. TGV and Open TGV are normally redwood while weatherboard is usually a whitewood. Floorboards in your house are just TG. (totally closed and whitewood)
Just sayin
Thanks
mitre saw has its place :P
It does, but not in the workshop
These pallets seem to be able to handle 5000LBS (with a grain of salt) so should be ok for a shed base
could you not also mitre cut the ends at 45 so that ends of the timbers are sealed together?
Yes
Would you not coat the flooring in bitumen paint to protect it
The risk is that you seal in moisture I think it's better to allow the wood to dry out naturally
Your better off getting two ratchet straps and loop round item then tighten cannot come loose vs rope more likely to come loose
7:27 made me laugh. 😂😂😂