Unique 3d Printed Objects
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- Опубліковано 1 сер 2024
- Learn about magical, seemingly impossible 3d printed objects and how to design them yourself in Tinkercad.
These objects all contain hinges that print in place. Manufacturing objects like these with moving parts that do not require assembly are only possible with additive manufacturing processes.
All of the prints shown printed on my Prusa i3 Mk3, Creality Ender 5 or Monoprice MP10 printers.
Here are links to the objects included in the video:
Parametric Hinge by rohingosling
www.thingiverse.com/thing:218...
Ball in a Box by PrintThatThing
www.thingiverse.com/thing:102...
Articulated Butterfly by 8ran
www.thingiverse.com/thing:281...
Infinity Cube by mosb1000
www.thingiverse.com/thing:349...
Grab Toy ++ by ecoiras
www.thingiverse.com/thing:275...
Enjoy. Please leave comments about your experiences with unique 3d prints. Let's keep learning together.
Irv
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I have reviewed the following printers or similar printers:
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These are some of the tools I use for 3d printing day-to-day:
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I have reviewed or used the following 3d printer upgrades:
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Here are the 3d printer filaments I use to evaluate prints, software, and techniques:
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I will be covering basic electronics and software in future MakeWithTech segments and here are the products I am using:
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Some of the Woodworking products I use:
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If only more teachers were as accurate and detailed as you are! Thank you so much for you time and effort!
I think you are possibly the best explainer I have ever seen in action. Thanks!
You deserve to have more subscribers than you do! Please keep making these great videos.
Thanks. Help me out by sharing my videos on UA-cam and Facebook. I will absolutely keep make new videos.
BEING A MAKER IS MORE ABOUT WHAT YOU LEARN WHILE MAKING THAN WHAT YOU MAKE!
I agree. If you make something with a child then it is also about building memories.
Extremely informative. Thank you so much for making these sir.
Fantastic vids. I can’t stop watching them!!!
Learned a lot with this video. Thanks.
You’re extremely knowledgeable. Thank you for sharing.
Your welcome.
DrVax you are an amazing teacher I am surprised how easily I understand some concepts by listening to you that I believe I never could
I very much enjoy and learn a great deal from your videos, thank you.
I enjoy your enthusiasm, great videos.
Thanks for your comment.
Thanks for a clear, excellent video. Keep it up, you're an excellent teacher. I'm 69, and want to make things for my grandson.
I started my channel to help teach fellow baby boomers makers skills. Nothing is better then making stuff with a grandchild.
Oh wow, I gotta try that! thanks Doc!
You can find a range of models with articulated joints on thingiverse.
Nice designs
Thanks for sharing 😀👍
Yep. This is fun stuff.
My bloody god I'm sorry but I love you! You are just infectiously happy and likeable. Maybe a little patronising, but I still love you! And you explain things exquisitely, granted I knew these already but I would have died for a teacher like you when I was younger.
I'm dyslexic and autistic and just you make me want to learn more. I'm an adult I always want to learn more but you still make me want to learn more from you!
Thank you. Just thank you. I have little to no faith in humanity but you are 1 of very little that shines through, and makes me rethink. ☺️
Thanks for the comment.
P.S. I have started a new discussion forum at forum.drvax.com where we can all have more elaborate discussions and share pictures on our prints and printers. Check it out. Irv
@@MakeWithTech indeed a shall, I have just purchased my first 3D printer the Ender 3 V2 and got a free glass bed too as well
Completely unrelated, but I love your pen collection in the background.
Thanks. There are a couple of wood turning videos in the channel.
I can tell your production value has increased. Nice job.
Thanks for noticing.
I am still not happy with the transition from desktop shooting which uses my Lumix GH4 to screen sharing. I recently tried a Sony FDR-X300 and was disappointed. The mic input is very noisy, so noisy I just connected my Rode mic to my computer on a Sound Blaster USB adapter instead of going through the camera, and the HDMI video out was not as good as a Logitech C920.
I have an Epiphan AV.io video to USB adapter I can use with the GH4, which works exceptionally well, but the GH4 is too big to position correctly for ScreenCasts because my desk and computer face a wall and I do not have the space to move it.
The best change I made in the last couple of months was putting a Rode Video Mic Pro on a Studio Boom. That way to can use the same mic for both screencasts and video shots. When necessary I can also use it as a traditional shotgun on my GH4.
I really wish that Panasonic made a small format Lumix with a mic input and live HDMI output. Unfortunately, their smaller cameras do not have mic inputs and HDMI out. For example, a GX85 or an LX100 work be nice but they will not work for my needs.
I have two LED softboxes I move around, and may add a third.
To complete the picture, I use an iMac, Screenflow for screen captures and Final Cut Pro for all post-processing. I use Apple's Compressor software for final transcoding and uploading to UA-cam and Facebook.
I am a big fan of Affinity Photo and Affinity Designer for graphic and thumbnails.
At the end of the day, I believe it is important to ensure the video quality is good enough that people do not think about it, but the content is still king.
P.S. Do you think my viewers would be interested in a video about how I shoot videos and the equipment I use?
@@MakeWithTech Wow, that was a detailed explanation. Unfortunately it was lost on me because I have zero knowledge of cameras and studio equipment and video/production stuff. You might as well have been trying to explain nuclear physics to a grizzly bear. :)
But I'm sure some of your viewers would really like to see your setup and processes and you might even get some good tips from them on how to improve if you can.
Keep making good content and your channel will grow fast.
Love your channel dude
I look forward to the next great video, and as you say "Let's learn together"
Hello, great explanation! I think that we need to look at something in addition to make models like this work. The width of the plastic that is laid down. I would guess that the tolerance of the printer is quite small in comparison to the width of the plastic that is laid down. Things that affect tolerance are drive systems (belt tightness, backlash in lead screws, the ability of the printer to follow coordinates specified, the accuracy of “post processor” that created the G-code, loose hardware). Your example that you shared in which the clearance was changed showed that .2mm clearance was too much and .4mm (if I recall correctly) was pretty good. That leads me to believe that the width of the plastic being laid down is very close to .2mm. I would guess (as I have defined it) is probably on the order of .01mm. What I would like understand are the variables that affect the width of the plastic. I would guess feedrate, material chemistry, extrusion rate, the height of nozzle above the work piece and any subsequent layers, temperature of extruder, and I bet that there are other factors. But it appears that enough testing/research has been made that somewhere around .4mm is the sweet spot for a tight joint.
Great video! Keep them coming!
Don
You're the best!
How would you go about making adjustments for tolerance? I seem to be alright except with 0.2, sometimes a bit iffy with 0.3.
Thank you.
You're welcome!
Shalom bud
Good video
Hi great video as usual you are a gifted teacher! but please where can I get the files for that elephant?
Excellent video. I learned a lot watching this video and your other videos as well.
Thanks. Let me know if there are subjects you would like me to cover in a future video.
@@MakeWithTech I'm new to 3D printing and I'm looking at the many different programs that are out and how to use them. I'm looking to get an Ender 5 and an Ender 3 pro and I would like to know what is the best program/software to use with these printers and how to use them.
And thank you for your reply.
Also about carbon fiber filaments and Polycarbon filaments as well.
Hello..Can you explain how the upper layers of this cube and balls was printed??? Because when printing the top layers filament have no support behind to lay on it??
The ball and cube was printed with full supports. The ball touches the print bed while it is printing. Supports between the top rails and the bottom
rails are removed after printing.
Hi I have a problem I hope you can help with it, When I print after the raft is finished the print head lifts moves across the bed to the right-hand corner stays for a minute or so then moves back to the printed raft, and then digs into the raft Regards Debbie
Would you need to add supports to the top cross bar of the cube?
I did use support for the cube prints.
Will the sphere in a box print without supports for the top rail?
Not likely. I used supports.
With the sphere in a cube, did you have to use any support?
Yes.
In regards to tolerances, out of curiosity, have you tried any of the resin-based SLA printers? I've never used one, but apparently the level of precision you get in there is insane, something on the order of around 20-50 microns. I'd be curious to see how these "magical" prints work on there.
Absolutely true. I have stayed away form SLA because of the difficulties and safety procedures needed to handle the resins. I tried one MSLA printer and had difficulties with bed adhesion and decided for my needs it was not worth the effort.
@@MakeWithTech Ah, I was debating buying one, but the biggest blocker for me has been that the resin is literally on the order of 3-5x the price per-kg compared to PLA or PETG, though safety probably should have been high on my list :).
If you don't feel like it's necessary then I probably don't either.
Where do you find the elephant? Is it on thingverse?
Woah, muy interesante! Sigue así, me encantas!!
Gracias
Hi! You have the link to print the hinge to test the clearance??
Here is a link to the Thingiverse files:
www.thingiverse.com/thing:2187167
Good stuff here thank you.
I enjoyed making this video. My grandchildren love the articulated toys and the hinges are perfect for home repairs.
@@MakeWithTech Your videos are clear and informative. You're younger than me but you're like my clever old high school metalwork teacher, cheers.
Thanks. I am also old enough to have taken “shop” in junior high. Mr Spitz was fantastic. Some of the best teachers taught shop in the 60s and 70s and teach in “maker labs” today. Anyone that learns to make stuff from scratch gains from the experience.
I've always made things the usual, balsa planes, etc, but the 3d printing is the best thing.
I Just watched your video on Matterscore how it does everything,,Why did you use Cura instead of Matterscore ?
While I am a fan of MatterControl, because it is easy to use, the slicer in MatterControl is not as good as Cura. So I use Cura and PrusaSlicer for many of my prints. However, there is a new alternative that is even easier to use than MatterControl Astroprint 3.0. In the Astroprint 3.0 release, they have added the real Cura engine to the product with their front end. While it misses a couple of excellent features from Cura 4.2, such as manual supports, in terms of print quality, it is excellent. You can learn more about Astroprint 3.0 in my new video:
ua-cam.com/video/EW-YTXr4b5A/v-deo.html
I hope this is helpful. Thanks for the comment/question. Let's continue to learn things together.
What is magic here could be a pretty gag in other places : think if you build simultaneously a piano and a room... ;-)
Great vid can i ask you a question?. Some of my print lift of the bed on the corners,why is this Doc. I'm a noob to this. Subbed
very noob :)
@sconerin1 You need to check a couple of things. 1) Check that your print bed is level. 2) Check that the distance between your nozzle and the print bed is proper -- see the video about leveling the print bed on an Edner 5. The concepts apply to all printers. 3) Try using Magigoo on the print bed before printing. 4) Do you have a heated bed? If so make sure you have the temperature correct for the type of filament you are printing.
Hope this gets you started. Never hesitate to ask. This channel is all about learning together.
Love your videos but i seen you do on Matterscore, for this application why did you use Cura..
Sorry i meant Mattercontrol
While I am a fan of MatterControl, because it is easy to use, the slicer in MatterControl is not as good as Cura. So I use Cura and PrusaSlicer for many of my prints. However, there is a new alternative that is even easier to use than MatterControl Astroprint 3.0. In the Astroprint 3.0 release, they have added the real Cura engine to the product with their front end. While it misses a couple of excellent features from Cura 4.2, such as manual supports, in terms of print quality, it is excellent. You can learn more about Astroprint 3.0 in my new video:
ua-cam.com/video/EW-YTXr4b5A/v-deo.html
I hope this is helpful. Thanks for the comment/question. Let's continue to learn things together.
Another fun video! I have an Creality Ender 3.. I'm thinking I need a better printer..I just want to design and print rather than fix and upgrade. What do you suggest as the best printer? I know its subjective but what is your opinion? I know more now than when I bought it. I think I mostly want to print with PETG for strength. So how about a whats the best printer for you video? Keep up the great work!!!
Right now I have an Ender 5, a Prusa i3 Mk3 and two Monoprice printers the Select Mini and an MP10. The MP10 is taking to much work to recommend and the Prusa is excellent but very expensive. The assembly of the Prusa was a ton of work, expect to spend a full day.
I really love my Ender 5 and it can handle PETG but it is just an incremental upgrade from the Ender 3. Let me do some research and leave you a comment. I want to learn more about the CR20 Pro. MatterHackers carries the CR20 and they are quite particular about the machines they carry.
Give me a couple of days. Maybe I will end up using your question to make a video about since I believe a lot of Ender 3 users are interested in the same question.
Ok, I did some digging. The CR20 Pro looks like an excellent machine. It is $100 more than an Ender 5 which is a machine I love using. So what do you get for $100. At the end of the day you get a trivial assembly, the Ender 5 takes about an hour to build, you get autobed leveling, a Capricorn Bowden tube, and a Meanwell power supply. The Creality web site claims an upgraded extruder but the picture looks the same.
You give up the geometry advantage of the Ender 5 -- the print bed only moves on one axis vs two on the Ender 5.
It is not clear but it also some reports would indicate you get more memory on the motherboard board.
The EZABL Kit - EZConnect V3.1 kit from TH3d is $68 dollars, and a Capricorn tube is about $13 dollars so the extra $100 is a fair price. The question is do you need these upgrades. I rarely relevel my Ender 5 however a number of people have complained about dips in the Ender print beds which an autolevel probe would handle.
Difficult call. Hope the data is helpful.
@@MakeWithTech So Money aside would you go with a Prusa or the CR20?
Money aside go for the Prusa. Just be aware the kit is a very difficult build. One of my first videos was an unboxing and assembly video of the Prusa.
Thanks very much. I was a technician and the builds I find straight forward. =)
Hello! 0.3mm tolerance for 0.4mm nozzle is pretty bad. It's an "elephant's leg" or a bad step/mm calibration of the printer. 0.15mm is a good tolerance and 0.1mm and lower is excelent for any consumer 3d printer.
I agree. I made no attempt to tune these prints. The purpose of this video was to explain the unique geometries available with 3d printers.
Thanks again for commenting. Your insights are valuable and will be helpful to viewers of the channel.
How does he do it?
HE'S A WITCH 😄😁
Download from thingiverse? Customizer? You can barely download anything from there. The customizer doesn't work at all now. I get 500 server errors all day. At this rate they may just shut it down. It would be sad.
Yes it is unfortunate that Makerbot does not seem committed to providing appropriate resources for Thingiverse. It is always complex for a company to determine appropriate spending for free services directed at building a community as their corporate mission evolves. Under Stratasys ownership Makerbots mission is unclear. This makes Thingiverse spending level and future more unclear.
However right now I still find thingiverse a valuable resource to the educational and non-professional 3D printing community.