I still remember all the projects I did with my dad. We built a shed with a side shed, a huge deck, a brick patio, french windows with a door, built a deck on the steep hill behind our house, and so many vehicle repair jobs. We did the front cv joints on the axle shafts in the CJ in my avatar pic back in 1995, got the urethane ones so they'd last. Going on 30 years now and they're still good. Your son won't only remember it he'll use those skills and they'll make his life better. Great job man!
After working for an industrial uniform supplier, and teaching arc flash/flash fire protection, I can tell you from experience about an arc flash after adding a 30 amp breaker for a camper hookup. After setting my beer on the top of the panel, and quickly letting the screwdriver slip, I ruined a really good shirt, a pair of underwear, a half can of beer, and a cheap screwdriver. Somehow only my eyebrows and eyelashes got burned off. We were very lucky men. Let me tell you, you don't want any part of a 220 arc flash. My whole career we emphasized caution around 440 and up. 220 was never a real topic of conversation. I'm a believer.
I was a Sr design engineer for very large contractors and retired. Very very well done install! I would make a suggestion. If you can, clean off a spot on the metal the panel is mounted to and install a lug on it. Run a #6 from that lug to your ground bar. You are already kind of grounded by mounting the panel to it but those screws may not comply with NEC requirements. Just a little added insurance that no one will get shocked touching the building. Best wishes, Kevin
Thank you very much I definitely enjoyed this project and glad I was able to take it on. Thanks for the feedback I’ll most definitely add that to the panel. Thanks for watching
Metal boxes on a metal building, you really should use electrical tape around all outlets and switches when going in metal boxes. Overall a good install for DIY. Keep the content coming 👍
It's great that you and your son could work on the underground power together. When my daughter was your sons age we built a deck around our old house together! She would help out with a lot of little things on the project.
@@ProjectDadLife It seems like yesterday when my daughter was involved in the cars & my projects. Now she is 32 years old and busy with life. Enjoy your time with them because it will go by quickly.
Nice job on your first sub panel and most of all much respect for putting yourself out there for all these experts highly experienced electricians to come out and give you back-to-back feedback:-) I am an air conditioning contractor personally I would have put the cable in a conduit underground but no big deal it's in sales at least you have experienced direct burial and if it doesn't fail even better :-) the double legs on the exterior subpanel kind of caught me off guard without putting a breaker other than that the lock ring and bushing that we're missing going into the panels. Other than that looks great good job just correct those few small issues and you're rocking and rolling money in the bank baby money saved is money earned
Nice job! You need to check the NEC for the ampacity of 2-AWG aluminum conductor. It is 90-amperes when used as a feeder from a service rated over 100-AMP. In table 310.15(B)(16) under aluminum conductors 75c you will find that the ampacity of 2-AWG conductors is 90 amperes. If the service to your property is over 100 then you need to put 90-ampere rated circuit breaker in to protect all the 2-AWG aluminum ungrounded conductors. This mistake is common though.
I haven't used direct burial in quite a while, but I believe cable types have expanded somewhat and is covered by more insulation types, including 90C and even 105C cables in this category. 90C aluminum cable has a 100 amp rating. Personally, I prefer to go with copper in PVC conduit and I have doubts that the direct burial cable would provide cost advantage. and as I recall, it needs to be buried at 24" or below. Maybe they were, but the trench I saw in the video didn't look that deep, Most of what I saw here looked pretty good and although some inspectors may find a thing or two to complain about, it looked like a pretty good installation.
Yeah but realistically, he's probably never going to be pulling 90 amps at once, and there is some over head redundancy built into all this stuff. Like that 90 amp trailer wire could handle more. A lot of retailers rate that wire for 100 amps( even though it's 90 amps by the book) Realistically he"ll be fine over 10 amps
For someone that doesn't do this type of work every day, you definitely did a great job all around. Great workmanship. Just a couple comments. Regarding the #6 ground. I believe the largest solid conductor you can get is #10. Anything bigger is stranded. Here in Canada, code requires a minimum #6 copper insulated or bare conductor. If at all possible for next time, I would recommend going at least 3 feet deep with the conductors. Less chance of hitting them if you ever dig around. Your area may differ, but here code requires at least 3 feet. Thirdly ground rods are to be spaced a minimum of 10 ft apart. I can't see there being a problem with your LB (the 90 connector you used to enter the panels). As long as the cover is sealed off properly with a rubber gasket on the 90, and the fittings properly glued and secured with a nut on the inside of both panels. Keep up the great work. I always admire a guy that isn't scared of doing the research and doing things on his own.
i replaced a well control panel for a friend. It Was wired with number 4 AWG solid conductors. The most God awful stuff I ever worked with. I have strong hands and I needed a pipe wrench to bend it. #8 solid is really common for pool bonding here.
Was covering my eyes with the razor knife business, having cut myself too many times with a razorknife, I tend to use strippers whenever possible. Ensure the neutral is rated for pass through service, and seal it up extra water tight. Putty is your friend and you do not want water coming in to a box at all.
Nice video! we are in the process of builing a structure as a kitchen for UA-cam, and are also doing 100amp 240v service.. question though: according to my calcs, I have to use 4/0 4/0 4/0 2 aluminum able to get that amount of power out there... Part of it is that we are running 250ft away, so we have to account for voltage drop. Seems like a lot of extra size for that though. How far did you have to go??
Hey Project Dad, When installing the (Direct Cable) LB box from the outside to the inside of the service panel, How did you secure the LB Box and water proof it? I am in the process of finding a spot in my garage and like your idea, just confused about securing the LB conduit.
It’s just me, but I would have put the extra breaker in the intermediate panel. I would want to be able to shut power off to the garage without shutting power off to the septic. Looks good otherwise! What was your bury depth?
Here locally you are required to have an emergency shut off on the outside power panel for the garage. Fire department will not put water on a "hot" garage. If the owner isn't home there is your problem.
Awesome video and great break down. I’ve been digging through UA-cam as I’m getting ready to wire my new metal frame shop as well and yours is by far the best I found. All your vids are pretty cool, subscribed! Keep the content coming 🤙🏼.
Not bad. I’d hire you as an apprentice. Just make sure your connections are tight, and seal up around the fittings going into the panels. Water and electricity don’t mix all that well.
Hello. I built a 26x50x10. I am wiring the inside now before I run power from the house to it. Glad I came across your video. Do you have issues with condensation? Trying to decide what to do for it right now. Any help will be great. Thank you
You just stuck the LB in the panel and called it a day ? 🤔 I would’ve used a connector with bushing and lock nut with a short piece of pipe going into the LB, what’s stopping someone from pulling that LB right out of the panel
BRO! I called our regional electric inspector yesterday to ask a couple questions before I DIMyself (and he was nice enough to answer)😊 For 100A subpanel: 1/0 1/0 1/0 0-2 (must be 4 conductors). 6ga ground (5/8 rod AT LEAST 6 ft apart)😊
I feel the same way when doing electrical work. Accomplish, especially when ya don't have a 4th of July display with sparks or fire after ya flip the breakers 🤣.
Great Video. Couple questions. Trench depth? Your ground rod you drove in ground for shop. Did you route ground conductor in conduit outside with the direct burial conductors? Your shop sub panel. Did you just side mount to metal stud? Or did you need to build any frame work to mount the sub panel to? Great video and watching all of your videos. Thank you
Thanks man. The trench depth was 18-24”. Yes the sun panel was just directly screwed to the side of the metal stud. The upright wall studs are 1/8” thick plenty of meat I figured. I did not run any conduit on the ground wire, but it was just a standard 6ga copper wire I used as grounding wire from ground bus bar directly to 6’ ground rod. Thanks for the support.
Depth should have been a minimum of 24" cover, with clean fill. I'd have put it in PVC for the complete run. You should have an expansion joint at both ends of your riser and a loop at the bottom.
Force of habit, I don't touch or point inside of boxes at all, electricity can arc lol. I know you've got the power off, like I said just a force of habit.
18800 for that building? seems about right. Were getting one very similar from texwin in texas but through oklahoma so we only pay the 6.25 tax rather than the 8.25, anyways its a 35x24 for 16850 but we were blessed and were able to get locked into a 30% off flash sale so we wound up paying right around 14100.
Great video on how you should call an electrician instead of DIY. The LB boxes “boxes where the wires turned 90 degrees & entered the 1st sub-panel & 2nd sub-panel” have no 2”-3” pvc pipe for going through the wall. They neither have a pvc connector with a lock-nut and no pvc bushings to prevent wire chaffing all of which are required by the NEC for running feeder wires through conduit. Though, the cable he used might be “direct burial” cable, most electricians and electrical inspectors would say “the trench is already dug so just run the wire in conduit”. These type of mistakes can lead to wire chaffing, sparking, fires and property damage and loss of life due to inexperience!!! Double tapping the main lugs in the 1st sub-panel is illegal in this case because, this is a small sub-panel not a main distribution panel feeding multiple service panels. Though he “DIY DAD” felt a 3rd breaker was not needed he is wrong, a properly sized amp breaker for the feeder wires approved Amp rating is required by the NEC. Other than those couple of issues the install looks ok but, very doubtful it will pass any state, county or local city electrical inspection with any scrutiny. This is precisely the reason why if you buy a home especially with a detached garage or building supplied with electricity. HAVE IT INSPECTED PRIOR TO SIGNING OR AGREEING TO ANYTHING!!!
@@ProjectDadLife LOL that's funny because it's true! Thanks for the video series, I like your work. I'm wiring my metal shed now and turn to a lot of videos for guidance.
Does your feeder line need a ground from the main panel? Thought you needed just a 3 wire feeder with the sub panel grounded? (DIY guy fixing to do the same)
For that distance, you should have run a larger wire. I'd expect to see voltage drop if you're running welders. My guess is you're good for about 70 amps before things start going south. Your breaker is oversized.
Were you touching the lugs on the hot, house-side panel? Jeepers! The way you've wired this, all of the neutral current is going through the neutral buss bar on the house-side panel. Is it rated for that pass-through use? Also, I don't see any washers on the inside of the boxes where you fit the LBs. What's holding 'em in there?
I had the breaker off going to the house panel I’m not that crazy lol. Tell me more about the neutral pass through rating. First I’ve heard that. I’m very new to electrical wiring. What’s LB’s? I can put some washers on if needed where exactly are you seeing that? Thanks for the input man.
@@ProjectDadLife You should land the neutral at a double lug (like you did the lines). Otherwise, all of the neutral current is going through the bus bar. The double lugs are certainly rated for high current. The buss bar might not be designed to handle that kind of current. LBs are the pull elbows you used. You place one at exactly 5:00 in this video. I think you said you used 1-1/2 inch conduit: see Carlon product E986H-CAR for an example of an LB. The hub on a RLBs isn't designed to be poked directly into the box the way you've done it -- it's not fastened, and it's not sealed. (Maybe you've got it fastened; the video doesn't show this detail, but the lock nut isn't apparent to me in what I can see. The best view I have is around 7:22 in the video, and it looks like it's just the LB hub pokin' through.) Even the non-metallic LB you've used should be fastened on the inside of the box to hold them in place. Use a terminal adapter (like Carlon part E943H) and the appropriate metal lock nut over its threads on the inside of the box. I'm worried that you can't fix this, since you've drilled the holes for the outside diameter of the hub rather than the outside diameter of the threaded end of the terminal adapter. And hopefully I got all this right: it's muscle memory pulling the parts out of the trays while I'm standing in front of the equipment. Typing it out from memory with detailed descriptions is a bit of a challenge. :)
@@mikeblaszczak5346 You are correct with the LBs. I work as an electrician and I saw it too glad you mentioned it. @Project Dad Life You used PVC LBs to bring the wire into the panels. We usually use an MC connector which has threads and a locknut to enter panels or use a PVC connector with threads. I think u can still use the LBs you have used and change over to something with threads, you also may need some sort of washer for it. (wish I could post a pic as ref). It will be fine as is for now but water will be able to enter your panels overtime around the PVC LB so may want to look into some fixes before long. Also don’t know if it will matter but the grind rod wire is generally bare copper so that the wire itself is also in contact with the ground. Don’t think it matter to much since your first rod is so close to building, but something to keep in mind for the second one. The sub panel looks good other than that so far, (more neat than some guys I work with lol) just keep the same procedure your going with for any other wires you put in and it should look good! I usually don’t comment on stuff like this but you seem like a good dude who wants to genuinely know the way to do things. Hopefully that made a slight amount of sense.
As I'm sure others have said, the ground rod should be farther from the structure. Technically 2 ft but I have never seen anyone actually go farther than 6" let alone a foot.
Man unreal!! Where is the conduit, TA and plastic bushing for the 4 wires coming in????? Big code violation,, not even close to be compliant.. need 2 ground rods not one. Glad the building is steel hopefully it won't burn
No worries everyone is a rookie at some point! I just turned off the main house breaker, which essentially is disconnecting from the street. Thanks for watching buddy!
Do you not have to put sand in the trench and a board or gravel on top of it? The wire should be protected in case of contact from a shovel or other digging tool.
@@ProjectDadLife Question. You have a 200 amp main breaker in your main panel inside your house, correct ??? And you installed a 100 amp breaker inside your main panel to serve your shop, correct ??? I'm in the process of planning a detached garage / workshop and am trying to figure this stuff out for myself. Your videos have helped a lot so thank you.
@@ProjectDadLife You have to have it inspected by a county or State Electrical inspector in all States in North America, even after it has a mechanical inspection.
Just because it says direct burial don’t mean I trust it to not be in conduit on my side of meter. I alway run in gray plastic conduit because all it takes is a rock with frost an thaw each year. Then you be wondering why the electric bill is so high. Ask me how I know seen and heard many times about with people here in Michigan.
I normally don't watch people doing electrical work because it is super cringey watching amateurs doing electrical work. Being a licensed electrician for the last 25 years I am only going to tell you one thing, from a safety stand point. You and your child (I assume, I don't normally watch your channel) should not be standing in front of the electrical panel when you energized it; if something was incorrect you could have had an Arc flash and badly burned one or both of you. I only say this because I don't want to see anyone hurt especially a child.
@@ProjectDadLife I normally stand to the side of the panel facing the wall so only my hand and part of my arm are exposed. There is OSHA required PPE for different applications and exposures. It's costly gear for a home owner. Nice work keep it up.
@@ProjectDadLife Ditto on Ricks comment. Have the face plate back on the panel and atleast some good dry leather gloves with some heavy rubber scrub gloves underneath for the first power up. Some think 120v & 240v are "not that dangerous". 120v kills more people in the US than any other voltage. It wont blow you up but at the same time you cant let go either. Most are lucky and just get a warning zing.
@@ProjectDadLife you should go look again. Bonding screws are for bonding the neutral and ground. I'm a licensed electrician and that is the only purpose that screw serves
Thanks for help. I’m not sure it’s correct but I took apart the plastic cover just to double check the neutral and ground bonding strap are not connected once the bonding strap is removed. So essentially I used the grounding bar as a additional sub panel bar attached to the case with the bonding screw. That make since? I know my electrical terminology probably sucks lol. Still wrong you think?
@@ProjectDadLife that green screw need to be removed no matter what.. u should use a proper ground bar kit with the appropriate screws to bond the ground bar to the panelboard
What are the grey plastic boxes called that run your cables into your shed and distribution box? Im wiring up my shed and that would be perfect. Thanks
you connected the grounds incoming to the Neutral bus with the green screw, this is incorrect you mixed up the ground bus with the neutral bus. The green screw should be removed in a sub panel, and the white or neural wire will not be grounded. You have an electrical hazard.
I removed the bonding strap. Sub panels have removable bonding straps allowing you to bond the neutrals together or use one bus for ground and one bus bar for neutral.
Inspectors these days are so hit or miss on actual knowledge of the trades it’s funny! Most of them just look for gfci and when they see those there like yep it’s 👍🏻
I'm not an electrician. Based on some of your comments to those that commented on this video, it doesn't seem that you are safety conscious when it comes to your family. You should have your electric inspected by a professional to ensure you are compliant according to your state. This lack of safety awareness seems odd for someone that enjoys spending time with his kids.
What’s the correct way? Couldn’t find much info on it. I wish now I would’ve just bolted a conduit elbow to the panel and just glued the stick in. Don’t think I really needed the LB access panel.
@@tomnorman5461, I base my knowledge on 40 yrs, experience as a journeyman Electrician. If any boss would see a current carrying conductor in a bind you would have to correct that. Remember the "Bible" says " in a neat and orderly manner
I still remember all the projects I did with my dad. We built a shed with a side shed, a huge deck, a brick patio, french windows with a door, built a deck on the steep hill behind our house, and so many vehicle repair jobs. We did the front cv joints on the axle shafts in the CJ in my avatar pic back in 1995, got the urethane ones so they'd last. Going on 30 years now and they're still good. Your son won't only remember it he'll use those skills and they'll make his life better. Great job man!
Thats awesome man thank you I sure hope so.
After working for an industrial uniform supplier, and teaching arc flash/flash fire protection, I can tell you from experience about an arc flash after adding a 30 amp breaker for a camper hookup. After setting my beer on the top of the panel, and quickly letting the screwdriver slip, I ruined a really good shirt, a pair of underwear, a half can of beer, and a cheap screwdriver. Somehow only my eyebrows and eyelashes got burned off. We were very lucky men. Let me tell you, you don't want any part of a 220 arc flash. My whole career we emphasized caution around 440 and up. 220 was never a real topic of conversation. I'm a believer.
Super good info thank you.
I was a Sr design engineer for very large contractors and retired. Very very well done install! I would make a suggestion. If you can, clean off a spot on the metal the panel is mounted to and install a lug on it. Run a #6 from that lug to your ground bar. You are already kind of grounded by mounting the panel to it but those screws may not comply with NEC requirements. Just a little added insurance that no one will get shocked touching the building. Best wishes, Kevin
Thank you very much I definitely enjoyed this project and glad I was able to take it on. Thanks for the feedback I’ll most definitely add that to the panel. Thanks for watching
It does not matter what the wires touch. That`s why they are insulated. Just make it look neat. Good job..
Thank you sir. I actually really enjoyed this process.
Metal boxes on a metal building, you really should use electrical tape around all outlets and switches when going in metal boxes. Overall a good install for DIY. Keep the content coming 👍
It's great that you and your son could work on the underground power together. When my daughter was your sons age we built a deck around our old house together! She would help out with a lot of little things on the project.
It usually takes for time but I’ve really enjoyed slowing down and trying to teach my boys lately! Time goes by to fast
@@ProjectDadLife It seems like yesterday when my daughter was involved in the cars & my projects. Now she is 32 years old and busy with life. Enjoy your time with them because it will go by quickly.
Nice job on your first sub panel and most of all much respect for putting yourself out there for all these experts highly experienced electricians to come out and give you back-to-back feedback:-) I am an air conditioning contractor personally I would have put the cable in a conduit underground but no big deal it's in sales at least you have experienced direct burial and if it doesn't fail even better :-) the double legs on the exterior subpanel kind of caught me off guard without putting a breaker other than that the lock ring and bushing that we're missing going into the panels. Other than that looks great good job just correct those few small issues and you're rocking and rolling money in the bank baby money saved is money earned
Nice job! You need to check the NEC for the ampacity of 2-AWG aluminum conductor. It is 90-amperes when used as a feeder from a service rated over 100-AMP. In table 310.15(B)(16) under aluminum conductors 75c you will find that the ampacity of 2-AWG conductors is 90 amperes.
If the service to your property is over 100 then you need to put 90-ampere rated circuit breaker in to protect all the 2-AWG aluminum ungrounded conductors. This mistake is common though.
I haven't used direct burial in quite a while, but I believe cable types have expanded somewhat and is covered by more insulation types, including 90C and even 105C cables in this category. 90C aluminum cable has a 100 amp rating. Personally, I prefer to go with copper in PVC conduit and I have doubts that the direct burial cable would provide cost advantage. and as I recall, it needs to be buried at 24" or below. Maybe they were, but the trench I saw in the video didn't look that deep,
Most of what I saw here looked pretty good and although some inspectors may find a thing or two to complain about, it looked like a pretty good installation.
Yeah but realistically, he's probably never going to be pulling 90 amps at once, and there is some over head redundancy built into all this stuff. Like that 90 amp trailer wire could handle more. A lot of retailers rate that wire for 100 amps( even though it's 90 amps by the book) Realistically he"ll be fine over 10 amps
For someone that doesn't do this type of work every day, you definitely did a great job all around. Great workmanship.
Just a couple comments.
Regarding the #6 ground. I believe the largest solid conductor you can get is #10. Anything bigger is stranded. Here in Canada, code requires a minimum #6 copper insulated or bare conductor.
If at all possible for next time, I would recommend going at least 3 feet deep with the conductors. Less chance of hitting them if you ever dig around. Your area may differ, but here code requires at least 3 feet.
Thirdly ground rods are to be spaced a minimum of 10 ft apart.
I can't see there being a problem with your LB (the 90 connector you used to enter the panels). As long as the cover is sealed off properly with a rubber gasket on the 90, and the fittings properly glued and secured with a nut on the inside of both panels.
Keep up the great work. I always admire a guy that isn't scared of doing the research and doing things on his own.
In the US the ditch in grassy area can be 24 inches and ground rods 6 feet apart.
i replaced a well control panel for a friend. It Was wired with number 4 AWG solid conductors. The most God awful stuff I ever worked with. I have strong hands and I needed a pipe wrench to bend it. #8 solid is really common for pool bonding here.
Was covering my eyes with the razor knife business, having cut myself too many times with a razorknife, I tend to use strippers whenever possible.
Ensure the neutral is rated for pass through service, and seal it up extra water tight. Putty is your friend and you do not want water coming in to a box at all.
Nice video! we are in the process of builing a structure as a kitchen for UA-cam, and are also doing 100amp 240v service.. question though: according to my calcs, I have to use 4/0 4/0 4/0 2 aluminum able to get that amount of power out there... Part of it is that we are running 250ft away, so we have to account for voltage drop. Seems like a lot of extra size for that though. How far did you have to go??
Love it!!! Dad life!!
Thanks man
Very educational video thank you for sharing 😊
Hey Project Dad,
When installing the (Direct Cable) LB box from the outside to the inside of the service panel, How did you secure the LB Box and water proof it? I am in the process of finding a spot in my garage and like your idea, just confused about securing the LB conduit.
It’s just me, but I would have put the extra breaker in the intermediate panel. I would want to be able to shut power off to the garage without shutting power off to the septic. Looks good otherwise! What was your bury depth?
Here locally you are required to have an emergency shut off on the outside power panel for the garage. Fire department will not put water on a "hot" garage. If the owner isn't home there is your problem.
The lub is not required by the NEC anymore
Awesome video and great break down. I’ve been digging through UA-cam as I’m getting ready to wire my new metal frame shop as well and yours is by far the best I found. All your vids are pretty cool, subscribed! Keep the content coming 🤙🏼.
Thanks for the support.
Not bad. I’d hire you as an apprentice. Just make sure your connections are tight, and seal up around the fittings going into the panels. Water and electricity don’t mix all that well.
Hello. I built a 26x50x10. I am wiring the inside now before I run power from the house to it. Glad I came across your video. Do you have issues with condensation? Trying to decide what to do for it right now. Any help will be great. Thank you
I know this is an older vid but.. How did you attach your box inside the shop to the metal building?
Always love people working on electricity saying “pretty much”
You just stuck the LB in the panel and called it a day ? 🤔 I would’ve used a connector with bushing and lock nut with a short piece of pipe going into the LB, what’s stopping someone from pulling that LB right out of the panel
I came to the comments wondering if someone else picked up on that. Is there a rule in the NEC about that, do you know?
BRO! I called our regional electric inspector yesterday to ask a couple questions before I DIMyself (and he was nice enough to answer)😊 For 100A subpanel: 1/0 1/0 1/0 0-2 (must be 4 conductors). 6ga ground (5/8 rod AT LEAST 6 ft apart)😊
I feel the same way when doing electrical work. Accomplish, especially when ya don't have a 4th of July display with sparks or fire after ya flip the breakers 🤣.
Yes sir it’s a great feeling! Thanks for watching
Great Video. Couple questions.
Trench depth?
Your ground rod you drove in ground for shop. Did you route ground conductor in conduit outside with the direct burial conductors?
Your shop sub panel. Did you just side mount to metal stud?
Or did you need to build any frame work to mount the sub panel to?
Great video and watching all of your videos.
Thank you
Thanks man. The trench depth was 18-24”. Yes the sun panel was just directly screwed to the side of the metal stud. The upright wall studs are 1/8” thick plenty of meat I figured. I did not run any conduit on the ground wire, but it was just a standard 6ga copper wire I used as grounding wire from ground bus bar directly to 6’ ground rod. Thanks for the support.
Depth should have been a minimum of 24" cover, with clean fill.
I'd have put it in PVC for the complete run. You should have an expansion joint at both ends of your riser and a loop at the bottom.
Force of habit, I don't touch or point inside of boxes at all, electricity can arc lol. I know you've got the power off, like I said just a force of habit.
Looks good. Are you going film the plumbing for compressed air? A must for a mechanic. .
18800 for that building? seems about right. Were getting one very similar from texwin in texas but through oklahoma so we only pay the 6.25 tax rather than the 8.25, anyways its a 35x24 for 16850 but we were blessed and were able to get locked into a 30% off flash sale so we wound up paying right around 14100.
Awesome project!
Great video on how you should call an electrician instead of DIY. The LB boxes “boxes where the wires turned 90 degrees & entered the 1st sub-panel & 2nd sub-panel” have no 2”-3” pvc pipe for going through the wall. They neither have a pvc connector with a lock-nut and no pvc bushings to prevent wire chaffing all of which are required by the NEC for running feeder wires through conduit. Though, the cable he used might be “direct burial” cable, most electricians and electrical inspectors would say “the trench is already dug so just run the wire in conduit”. These type of mistakes can lead to wire chaffing, sparking, fires and property damage and loss of life due to inexperience!!!
Double tapping the main lugs in the 1st sub-panel is illegal in this case because, this is a small sub-panel not a main distribution panel feeding multiple service panels. Though he “DIY DAD” felt a 3rd breaker was not needed he is wrong, a properly sized amp breaker for the feeder wires approved Amp rating is required by the NEC. Other than those couple of issues the install looks ok but, very doubtful it will pass any state, county or local city electrical inspection with any scrutiny. This is precisely the reason why if you buy a home especially with a detached garage or building supplied with electricity. HAVE IT INSPECTED PRIOR TO SIGNING OR AGREEING TO ANYTHING!!!
So your saying I’m pretty much a professional 🤷🏻♂️! Haha just kidding Merry Christmas
@@ProjectDadLife LOL that's funny because it's true! Thanks for the video series, I like your work. I'm wiring my metal shed now and turn to a lot of videos for guidance.
Good work, quick question how did you secure your panel in the shop.
Thanks. I used sheet metal screws and attach the right side to the vertical wall stud.
My plans exactly...
It was actually enjoyable and lot easier than expected
Does your feeder line need a ground from the main panel? Thought you needed just a 3 wire feeder with the sub panel grounded?
(DIY guy fixing to do the same)
You’re absolutely right.the feeder to a sub doesn’t need the ground. Just drop a new ground at the sub panel. That’s what I’m going to do for our barn
do you need 2 hots coming into the shop panel from your main panel?
Yes for 220
Where did you get the wire
How did you connect your lb to the panel. And its not aluminum cable its aluminum alloy.
For that distance, you should have run a larger wire. I'd expect to see voltage drop if you're running welders.
My guess is you're good for about 70 amps before things start going south. Your breaker is oversized.
Were you touching the lugs on the hot, house-side panel? Jeepers!
The way you've wired this, all of the neutral current is going through the neutral buss bar on the house-side panel. Is it rated for that pass-through use?
Also, I don't see any washers on the inside of the boxes where you fit the LBs. What's holding 'em in there?
I had the breaker off going to the house panel I’m not that crazy lol.
Tell me more about the neutral pass through rating. First I’ve heard that. I’m very new to electrical wiring.
What’s LB’s? I can put some washers on if needed where exactly are you seeing that?
Thanks for the input man.
@@ProjectDadLife
You should land the neutral at a double lug (like you did the lines). Otherwise, all of the neutral current is going through the bus bar. The double lugs are certainly rated for high current. The buss bar might not be designed to handle that kind of current.
LBs are the pull elbows you used. You place one at exactly 5:00 in this video. I think you said you used 1-1/2 inch conduit: see Carlon product E986H-CAR for an example of an LB.
The hub on a RLBs isn't designed to be poked directly into the box the way you've done it -- it's not fastened, and it's not sealed. (Maybe you've got it fastened; the video doesn't show this detail, but the lock nut isn't apparent to me in what I can see. The best view I have is around 7:22 in the video, and it looks like it's just the LB hub pokin' through.)
Even the non-metallic LB you've used should be fastened on the inside of the box to hold them in place. Use a terminal adapter (like Carlon part E943H) and the appropriate metal lock nut over its threads on the inside of the box. I'm worried that you can't fix this, since you've drilled the holes for the outside diameter of the hub rather than the outside diameter of the threaded end of the terminal adapter.
And hopefully I got all this right: it's muscle memory pulling the parts out of the trays while I'm standing in front of the equipment. Typing it out from memory with detailed descriptions is a bit of a challenge. :)
@@mikeblaszczak5346 You are correct with the LBs. I work as an electrician and I saw it too glad you mentioned it.
@Project Dad Life You used PVC LBs to bring the wire into the panels. We usually use an MC connector which has threads and a locknut to enter panels or use a PVC connector with threads. I think u can still use the LBs you have used and change over to something with threads, you also may need some sort of washer for it. (wish I could post a pic as ref). It will be fine as is for now but water will be able to enter your panels overtime around the PVC LB so may want to look into some fixes before long. Also don’t know if it will matter but the grind rod wire is generally bare copper so that the wire itself is also in contact with the ground. Don’t think it matter to much since your first rod is so close to building, but something to keep in mind for the second one. The sub panel looks good other than that so far, (more neat than some guys I work with lol) just keep the same procedure your going with for any other wires you put in and it should look good! I usually don’t comment on stuff like this but you seem like a good dude who wants to genuinely know the way to do things. Hopefully that made a slight amount of sense.
Love the content! Keep on keepin on!
Thanks bud!
You did an amazing job 👏 good luck make Sure no water can get in.
As I'm sure others have said, the ground rod should be farther from the structure. Technically 2 ft but I have never seen anyone actually go farther than 6" let alone a foot.
Conduit is your friend. Underground wiring does fail.
How come you didn’t use pvc conduit in the trench?
The lines I used are direct burial there made for that
@@ProjectDadLife thank you 🙏🏻
Hi, what is the model of the excavator machine?
Man unreal!! Where is the conduit, TA and plastic bushing for the 4 wires coming in?????
Big code violation,, not even close to be compliant.. need 2 ground rods not one.
Glad the building is steel hopefully it won't burn
Did you turn the power off at the road? Sorry I’m a rookie
No worries everyone is a rookie at some point! I just turned off the main house breaker, which essentially is disconnecting from the street. Thanks for watching buddy!
Do you not have to put sand in the trench and a board or gravel on top of it?
The wire should be protected in case of contact from a shovel or other digging tool.
I’m our county we just have to use direct burial wire it’s double cased. Then bury it to a certain depth we’re good to go.
hey.......that's woody harrelson
Hey how are you doing? WH
@@ProjectDadLife Question. You have a 200 amp main breaker in your main panel inside your house, correct ??? And you installed a 100 amp breaker inside your main panel to serve your shop, correct ???
I'm in the process of planning a detached garage / workshop and am trying to figure this stuff out for myself. Your videos have helped a lot so thank you.
Do you need permits and inspections in this part of country?
Yes but my building was already inspected and passed prior to wire
@@ProjectDadLife I'm talking inspecting wiring?
@@rendarchannel no need once building has passed
@@ProjectDadLife Sounds like the wild west. An Inspection may have caught all of your code violations.
@@ProjectDadLife You have to have it inspected by a county or State Electrical inspector in all States in North America, even after it has a mechanical inspection.
Just because it says direct burial don’t mean I trust it to not be in conduit on my side of meter. I alway run in gray plastic conduit because all it takes is a rock with frost an thaw each year. Then you be wondering why the electric bill is so high. Ask me how I know seen and heard many times about with people here in Michigan.
Thank you for being real and letting us in on your Father Son fun ... THE FATHER LOVES YOU AND YOUR SON!!!
Thank you! God bless
it does not matter if they are touching. they are touching under ground
Damn that’s very true😂
I normally don't watch people doing electrical work because it is super cringey watching amateurs doing electrical work. Being a licensed electrician for the last 25 years I am only going to tell you one thing, from a safety stand point. You and your child (I assume, I don't normally watch your channel) should not be standing in front of the electrical panel when you energized it; if something was incorrect you could have had an Arc flash and badly burned one or both of you. I only say this because I don't want to see anyone hurt especially a child.
Yes totally agree. I shouldn’t had my son standing further away. Thank you. What do you normally use to flip the breaker for the first time?
@@ProjectDadLife I normally stand to the side of the panel facing the wall so only my hand and part of my arm are exposed. There is OSHA required PPE for different applications and exposures. It's costly gear for a home owner. Nice work keep it up.
@@ProjectDadLife Ditto on Ricks comment. Have the face plate back on the panel and atleast some good dry leather gloves with some heavy rubber scrub gloves underneath for the first power up. Some think 120v & 240v are "not that dangerous". 120v kills more people in the US than any other voltage. It wont blow you up but at the same time you cant let go either. Most are lucky and just get a warning zing.
@@mattozx6rr I got zapped with 220 so many times as a kid that i stopped counting, you guys are over reacting here.
@@skhan66 LMAO 100% lying! You meant to say 120 volts because after getting hit with 240 volts one time you won't be back for seconds:-)
You need to pull that bonding screw out. That is not your main service. Ground and neutral need to be isolated
The bonding screw is on the ground bar only ground to panel. The bonding strap was removed so the neutral strap is not grounded
@@ProjectDadLife you should go look again. Bonding screws are for bonding the neutral and ground. I'm a licensed electrician and that is the only purpose that screw serves
Thanks for help. I’m not sure it’s correct but I took apart the plastic cover just to double check the neutral and ground bonding strap are not connected once the bonding strap is removed. So essentially I used the grounding bar as a additional sub panel bar attached to the case with the bonding screw. That make since? I know my electrical terminology probably sucks lol. Still wrong you think?
@@ProjectDadLife do u have an electrical meter to measure continuity?
@@ProjectDadLife that green screw need to be removed no matter what.. u should use a proper ground bar kit with the appropriate screws to bond the ground bar to the panelboard
What are the grey plastic boxes called that run your cables into your shed and distribution box? Im wiring up my shed and that would be perfect. Thanks
"Pull elbow" or "LB".
Do yourself a favor and DON'T use PVC 'LB's' outdoors, use a metal 'LB' with a short piece of rigid conduit going in the ground.
you connected the grounds incoming to the Neutral bus with the green screw, this is incorrect you mixed up the ground bus with the neutral bus. The green screw should be removed in a sub panel, and the white or neural wire will not be grounded. You have an electrical hazard.
I removed the bonding strap. Sub panels have removable bonding straps allowing you to bond the neutrals together or use one bus for ground and one bus bar for neutral.
As an electrician, I can assure you that this would not pass inspection.
Inspectors these days are so hit or miss on actual knowledge of the trades it’s funny! Most of them just look for gfci and when they see those there like yep it’s 👍🏻
@@ProjectDadLife Have had my fair share of those "educated" individuals 😄 Great comment. True beyond words.
Never ring your wire, pencil it.
Here in Canada if I did a sub panel like that, I would lose my license
What didn’t you like about the sub panel install?
@@BellyUpFishGarage everything is against code
@@tomb8232 I’m not attempting to argue, I’m attempting to learn.
Could you be more specific?
@@BellyUpFishGarage it's been a year ago when I watched video but how you ran wires in both ends would not pass code and how you wired shop
I'm not an electrician. Based on some of your comments to those that commented on this video, it doesn't seem that you are safety conscious when it comes to your family. You should have your electric inspected by a professional to ensure you are compliant according to your state. This lack of safety awareness seems odd for someone that enjoys spending time with his kids.
That is NOT a sub panel.
This getting inspected? Fail
No inspection. Curious Why would it fail though?
@@ProjectDadLife main reason the way u put Lb into panels
What’s the correct way? Couldn’t find much info on it. I wish now I would’ve just bolted a conduit elbow to the panel and just glued the stick in. Don’t think I really needed the LB access panel.
@@ProjectDadLife Undersized conductors for 100 amp.
??????? ?
?
@@ProjectDadLife some commenting are just knuckle heads, ignore em
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Your neutral should not be pressed against the panel. It is a current carrying conductor.
WHAT? The Neutral is INSULATED, it doesn't matter what it touches...Sorry, but you don't know what your talking about.
@@tomnorman5461, I base my knowledge on 40 yrs, experience as a journeyman Electrician. If any boss would see a current carrying conductor in a bind you would have to correct that. Remember the "Bible" says " in a neat and orderly manner
Your intro is way to long I lost interest in the video
No lock ring for your LB into your panel?