I’m convinced that things were built to last forever whereas later on “planned obsolescence” became the norm.Amazed at the quality of sound and aesthetics of this quality piece.
If you like it as much as it sounds keep it and sell one of the others. Back when I was actively fixing and selling TVs I always wanted one of the big Zenith radios like that. Closest I came was a Airline console I got cheap that I got working. Think I eventually gave it to a friend to put in their cabin as it was big and just not special enough to keep taking up space. Maybe your new place will have more space to place and store your goodies. I had a 12x16 mini barn with a loft built at the house we bought and something similar would make a nice small workshop if the new place doesn't have a shop or big garage.
That cut-out happened to me in a pair of EL34s at the same time. The problem was a broken internal solder between the cathodes and the pins. Is a very extrange failure but more extrange if a pair of tubes presents the same thing at the same time.
The 9S367 is a real winner. I've got one in my living room and it's sensitive and selective, it has no issue getting 1010, 1020, and 1030 which other sets can't do. Sound is wonderful for a single ended output. It's funny, Zenith made the 9S365, out of the previous year's 9S262, which came with pushbuttons and motorized tuning, expecting it to be a top seller in 1939. The 9S367 ended up selling far more because of the new design and tone controls.
The recommended way to get those old push buttons off is to gently (!) grind the top surface away with a sanding wheel on a Dremel type tool until the phenolic strip appears. Then the rest of the button will come off easily.
I have one of these, in working condition. Chassis is in very similar condition. Where can I find some of the chassis replacement parts you refer to in the video?
Weird, I have done two of this model # and neither of them had a way to set the line voltage. I wonder if yours was an export model. The slider buttons were also the same length on both sides (left versus right). An intermittent open-fault in the candohm likes to make the 6F6s internally short on these sets. I think the original dial belts were leather, or maybe that was on Spartons instead of Zenith.
I just saw this model for sale MP I have been looking for something like this the radios I do have all working now are Philco model 42-90 a 42-60 a zenith g844 a 1953 zenith transoceanic..working on a Philco model 70 right now..do need to part with some of these don't know where to sell them where anyone wants to buy 1940s radios not as collectable as the 1930s ...the model 70 is 1931..
This has been an ongoing debate among collectors and it’s possible to do both. On many sets I restore for collectors, I add in an AUX cable and a switch so they can switch between AUX (for their phone to hookup) and regular radio. Personally, on sets I restore for myself, I like to keep it as original as possible. I do have a mini-transmitter for my phone so the radio can pickup my music on AM, but usually I don’t like to make physical modern modifications to these sets. I like to keep them as they were made.
Hey there. Beautiful radio. I have one in my speakeasy at home that stopped working. I love it though. It turns on but i think it needs new tubes. How did you get the chassis out? Is there a step by step process? Thanks. Dave
The chassis is usually bolted to the cabinet that you can unscrew with pliers. Has your set been restored in the recent past? Replaced the capacitors in the power supply? That's what I've found fails first when a radio doesn't work is something going wrong in the power supply like the filter capacitors.
@televisionforever hi thanks for the reply. Ok I'll look at unbolting the chassis that way. I bought the radio back in April of 2020 and yes I believe that the capacitors were all changed. However, I'd like to take that chassis out and look at it closer. I agree about the filter caps being an issue. Probably a deep dive will reveal more. Probably a new set of tubes would not hurt. Oh, to give you more detail, the radio turns on and I get a buzz. Just reception of any station is non-existant. It did work very good. Then one night I was listening and it cut out. There is a little better history. One last thing on chassis removal. I have to remove the volume knows and shutter dial knob, correct? I really appreciate your reply. Thank you
@@dtg474 Ahh okay that extra info helps. Getting a buzz is good sign. I would try touching the antenna connection on the back and see if that helps the reception. If not, I would check under the chassis to see if any solder connections came unsoldered
@televisionforever ok thanks for that info. I will check all that out as soon as able. Also, I'll order some tubes, I think it's a start. Probably something easy. Thanks again and I appreciate all your help. Dave
For a total novice like me, I find these restoration projects fascinating.
I’m convinced that things were built to last forever whereas later on “planned obsolescence” became the norm.Amazed at the quality of sound and aesthetics of this quality piece.
I would love to have one of these old radios.
Great job by the way that is a beautiful radio I admire your interest and integrity on doing the right restoration
Beautiful radio. The design, styling and over the top engineering in these radio's are a shinning example of US development and innovation.
Completely agree. True works of art inside and out
I'm loving your videos. Thank you.
If you like it as much as it sounds keep it and sell one of the others. Back when I was actively fixing and selling TVs I always wanted one of the big Zenith radios like that. Closest I came was a Airline console I got cheap that I got working. Think I eventually gave it to a friend to put in their cabin as it was big and just not special enough to keep taking up space. Maybe your new place will have more space to place and store your goodies. I had a 12x16 mini barn with a loft built at the house we bought and something similar would make a nice small workshop if the new place doesn't have a shop or big garage.
A beautifull tombstone pick up here :) Zenith are top notch!
Wow I have this exact mode. This video will help when I get around to restoring mine. Thanks
Really looking forward to seeing the new workshop! You should put some art deco styling on the walls or something.
I hope to start collecting more Art Deco art for the workshop
That cut-out happened to me in a pair of EL34s at the same time. The problem was a broken internal solder between the cathodes and the pins. Is a very extrange failure but more extrange if a pair of tubes presents the same thing at the same time.
Beautiful job. 😊😊
I wish I had one like this one. Placing it in a main room brings more grace.
0:57 woah thats so cool. thats insanely futuristic for a 30s radio :)
The 9S367 is a real winner. I've got one in my living room and it's sensitive and selective, it has no issue getting 1010, 1020, and 1030 which other sets can't do. Sound is wonderful for a single ended output. It's funny, Zenith made the 9S365, out of the previous year's 9S262, which came with pushbuttons and motorized tuning, expecting it to be a top seller in 1939. The 9S367 ended up selling far more because of the new design and tone controls.
The recommended way to get those old push buttons off is to gently (!) grind the top surface away with a sanding wheel on a Dremel type tool until the phenolic strip appears. Then the rest of the button will come off easily.
Absolutely beautiful piece of furniture. You restored the electronic portion perfectly. Thanks for a great video.
Very impressive work, great stuff
nice job , thank you
Super!!
Hi Jack :
did you make the refurbishment of the wooden console by yourself or you just repaired the machine and the electromechanical parts !
Any chance you could scan the operating instructions booklet and make it available? Can't find it online.
I have one of these, in working condition. Chassis is in very similar condition. Where can I find some of the chassis replacement parts you refer to in the video?
Weird, I have done two of this model # and neither of them had a way to set the line voltage. I wonder if yours was an export model. The slider buttons were also the same length on both sides (left versus right). An intermittent open-fault in the candohm likes to make the 6F6s internally short on these sets. I think the original dial belts were leather, or maybe that was on Spartons instead of Zenith.
I just saw this model for sale MP I have been looking for something like this the radios I do have all working now are Philco model 42-90 a 42-60 a zenith g844 a 1953 zenith transoceanic..working on a Philco model 70 right now..do need to part with some of these don't know where to sell them where anyone wants to buy 1940s radios not as collectable as the 1930s ...the model 70 is 1931..
Where do you get your capacitors, etc., from?
Isn't the green eye tube supposed to fade out and back in as the tuning dial goes from one station to the next? Indicating fine tuning.
I'm pretty sure it's a window that opens and narrows.
Do you think it’s worth it to restore to its original or go with modern Bluetooth?
This has been an ongoing debate among collectors and it’s possible to do both. On many sets I restore for collectors, I add in an AUX cable and a switch so they can switch between AUX (for their phone to hookup) and regular radio. Personally, on sets I restore for myself, I like to keep it as original as possible. I do have a mini-transmitter for my phone so the radio can pickup my music on AM, but usually I don’t like to make physical modern modifications to these sets. I like to keep them as they were made.
Was there any video on what it took to installing the belt or did I just miss it?
I forgot to film that process. I’d like to make a separate video on that for these sets because it’s a bit of a pain
Hey there. Beautiful radio. I have one in my speakeasy at home that stopped working. I love it though. It turns on but i think it needs new tubes. How did you get the chassis out? Is there a step by step process? Thanks. Dave
The chassis is usually bolted to the cabinet that you can unscrew with pliers. Has your set been restored in the recent past? Replaced the capacitors in the power supply? That's what I've found fails first when a radio doesn't work is something going wrong in the power supply like the filter capacitors.
@televisionforever hi thanks for the reply. Ok I'll look at unbolting the chassis that way. I bought the radio back in April of 2020 and yes I believe that the capacitors were all changed. However, I'd like to take that chassis out and look at it closer. I agree about the filter caps being an issue. Probably a deep dive will reveal more. Probably a new set of tubes would not hurt.
Oh, to give you more detail, the radio turns on and I get a buzz. Just reception of any station is non-existant. It did work very good. Then one night I was listening and it cut out. There is a little better history.
One last thing on chassis removal. I have to remove the volume knows and shutter dial knob, correct?
I really appreciate your reply. Thank you
@@dtg474 Ahh okay that extra info helps. Getting a buzz is good sign. I would try touching the antenna connection on the back and see if that helps the reception. If not, I would check under the chassis to see if any solder connections came unsoldered
@televisionforever ok thanks for that info. I will check all that out as soon as able. Also, I'll order some tubes, I think it's a start. Probably something easy. Thanks again and I appreciate all your help. Dave
Hi Jack :
I asked you times before without any reply , why ... What is new !