I recently bought a 77 with an implant 360. Growing up my neighbor inherited it from his dad in the 80s, his 2 daughters drove it to school then college, then in the Early 2000s he sold it to a man and just recently I moved and right down the road was the man that bought the truck. He passed away ( cancer ) and the truck sat for 3 yrs. His wife almost didn't sell it to me but I told her my story of how I grew up hearing them girls raw hide it up the road trying to find the next gear (3 on the tree) and make it to town in one piece and she finally let me get it for a reasonable $3000. Right now it's black it was a rust and primer color when I got it I did a quick sand/paint job but planning on going to the original color this spring. My goal is to fix it up as nice as I can and show the lady I got it from first then the neighbor that originally had it. I think he'll like to see it restored.
That seems to have been a common swap, I'm seeing it come up a lot. Makes sense because who wants a 351m/400? I bought a 79 short bed f150 4x4 two years ago that had a 360 swapped in it, out of a 2wd truck or car cause it had a dented up front sump oil pan from the front drive shaft hitting it. It's now a 390.
Gotta love the 3 on the tree! I have one in mine, and love it. Currently using a Hurst floor shifter kit with the 3 speed top loader while I try to fix the column shift though. Its wild yet really nice to be done shifting by like 30mph.
They're worth it. I have some other classic cars I'm a sell but I won't get rid of my 69 F-100. And I've had tons of offers. One guy offered me money on the spot at AutoZone. I was like nope
I had the same problem with the brake light warning light. It happened to me when I had to do an emergency stop to avoid an accident and what happens is the combination valve that regulates fluid pressure in your brakes from front to rear gets stuck leaving only the front brakes active. This is dangerous to drive this way as your at 50% braking capacity. I found a resource that shows you how to fix the problem and rebuild your original combination valve with a seal kit and tool, as these combination valves are not available in parts stores anymore - as I found out. I purchased this kit and the tool and followed the instructions and it worked great! You will need some time and patience + some wrenching skills to DIY this, or take it to your mechanic and have him rebuild it. Here's the site: www.musclecarresearch.com/valve-rebuild-weatherhead-drum Good luck! T
Good information to have mine had been on for a while and I noticed it stopped a little funky and now I know why luckily it's off now but seems to come on when ever my booster is hooked up
That’s not true. It’s just a piston or a switch that triggers the warning light when the front or rears lose pressure, the triggered switch doesn’t itself deactivate half your brakes - just alerts you when theres a loss in pressure. Look at a diagram of the distribution block (4 wheel drums) or proportioning valve (disk/drum setup). You’ll see the brake fluid is not blocked at all by the piston.
If you follow the wires from the light you can see it's not an e brake light but a brake pressure light coming off the proportioning valve it can be a faulty sensor or a faulty proportioning valve
my 1970 f100 seems to do it when the truck sits for extended periods of time. All I ever did was drive the truck and the light goes off. I think the valve just sticks and frees up by using it. I never noticed any difference in braking performance. It’s a four wheel drum brake set up so the brakes aren’t super to begin with.
I recently bought a 77 with an implant 360. Growing up my neighbor inherited it from his dad in the 80s, his 2 daughters drove it to school then college, then in the Early 2000s he sold it to a man and just recently I moved and right down the road was the man that bought the truck. He passed away ( cancer ) and the truck sat for 3 yrs. His wife almost didn't sell it to me but I told her my story of how I grew up hearing them girls raw hide it up the road trying to find the next gear (3 on the tree) and make it to town in one piece and she finally let me get it for a reasonable $3000. Right now it's black it was a rust and primer color when I got it I did a quick sand/paint job but planning on going to the original color this spring. My goal is to fix it up as nice as I can and show the lady I got it from first then the neighbor that originally had it. I think he'll like to see it restored.
That seems to have been a common swap, I'm seeing it come up a lot. Makes sense because who wants a 351m/400? I bought a 79 short bed f150 4x4 two years ago that had a 360 swapped in it, out of a 2wd truck or car cause it had a dented up front sump oil pan from the front drive shaft hitting it. It's now a 390.
I know that feeling - 1970 F250, 360, C6... Loved it!
A 3 on the tree was a great drive. Beautiful highway car.
Our farm truck was a 75 f250 w 360 and a T 18 4 speed. You had to aim just right to hit third. Thanks for the memories
You know I have the same problem with my 71 I wonder what the cause is occasionally I hunt for a solid 20 seconds for third
@@that_sicksix1719 oh yea as slow down, down, down. Then take off again like crazy when you get it in 3rd.
I had a 1970 Ford F100 with the 360 and 3 on the tree it was a great truck I'd probably still be driving it but it was stolen.
I'm guessing someone older stole it because I doubt that too many '"kids" know how to drive a 3 on the tree.
Three on the tree...awsome
Gotta love the 3 on the tree! I have one in mine, and love it. Currently using a Hurst floor shifter kit with the 3 speed top loader while I try to fix the column shift though.
Its wild yet really nice to be done shifting by like 30mph.
Gotta 74 model 3 speed 360 love these old trucks.
I have a 68 F100 390 V8 with C6 trans. Love the truck
Runs like a Champ
Tree 3 action is a chilling session
good old 3 on the tree
Love to shift those "3 on trees"
My grand dad has the same truck. I hope he leaves me it in his will
Gotta say the three speeds first gear seems alot more usable then the four speeds of the same era
I want one so bad.
They're worth it. I have some other classic cars I'm a sell but I won't get rid of my 69 F-100. And I've had tons of offers. One guy offered me money on the spot at AutoZone. I was like nope
Excellent. 💙 T.E.N.
nice truck
68 short box, 390, an a 4speed
Hey I live there😂 gotta watch those saint Florian cops so he turned off into industrial park😂😂😂
I had the same problem with the brake light warning light. It happened to me when I had to do an emergency stop to avoid an accident and what happens is the combination valve that regulates fluid pressure in your brakes from front to rear gets stuck leaving only the front brakes active. This is dangerous to drive this way as your at 50% braking capacity. I found a resource that shows you how to fix the problem and rebuild your original combination valve with a seal kit and tool, as these combination valves are not available in parts stores anymore - as I found out. I purchased this kit and the tool and followed the instructions and it worked great! You will need some time and patience + some wrenching skills to DIY this, or take it to your mechanic and have him rebuild it. Here's the site: www.musclecarresearch.com/valve-rebuild-weatherhead-drum Good luck! T
I wouldn’t say 50% due to the front brakes doing most the work but still dangerous
Good information to have mine had been on for a while and I noticed it stopped a little funky and now I know why luckily it's off now but seems to come on when ever my booster is hooked up
That’s not true. It’s just a piston or a switch that triggers the warning light when the front or rears lose pressure, the triggered switch doesn’t itself deactivate half your brakes - just alerts you when theres a loss in pressure. Look at a diagram of the distribution block (4 wheel drums) or proportioning valve (disk/drum setup). You’ll see the brake fluid is not blocked at all by the piston.
I had the same truck but with the 240 straight 6.
im building one for my 65 galaxie now
The E brake warning light stays lit. Mine too. Have you tried to troubleshoot?
Check the switch or pull the release and lift up on the release.
If you follow the wires from the light you can see it's not an e brake light but a brake pressure light coming off the proportioning valve it can be a faulty sensor or a faulty proportioning valve
my 1970 f100 seems to do it when the truck sits for extended periods of time. All I ever did was drive the truck and the light goes off. I think the valve just sticks and frees up by using it. I never noticed any difference in braking performance. It’s a four wheel drum brake set up so the brakes aren’t super to begin with.
Here's another visual reference to fixing that problem: fordification.com/tech/propvalve101.htm
Whys parking light on ?
3 on the tree is the 💩 it's out of the way and closer to you