Mangrove Island Large Format Film Photography
Вставка
- Опубліковано 10 вер 2024
- This is another large format photography shoot at Ponce de Leon Park in Punta Gorda, Florida. I call this one "Mangrove Island".
Check out my blog: spencerpullen.c...
You can also reach me on Facebook: / spencerpullenphotography
I really like this image - well worth several trips to get it right. If you want to add filtration to the exposure, the technically correct choice is probably a medium yellow ( K2 in Kodak Watten ref) to very moderately darken the sky and its reflection in the water. If your light source in something of a sidelight, a polarizer will provide a similar but adjustable effect here. Of course, since you generally plan to produce a flat negative and then expand your contrast as needed in post-scan processing, you can probably get much of the same effect in that procedure. Looking forward to more.
Appreciate the comment and kind words. I’m currently looking at polarizers to add to my filter set. So far I have an orange and red filters. More to come and thanks for watching!
I'm not sure I'll ever go back to film, but I do appreciate the effort that goes into a perfectly exposed and printed image. Looks terrific.
BTW you need to change your logo camera to a large format camera.
Keep up the good work.
Thanks for your kind words. You are correct, need to update the logo, I'll have to put that on the list! Thanks...
Nicely done.
Another great episode Spence! What is your dilution of D76 in combination with FP4+, 1:1? My preferred developer for FP4+ is Ilford DD-X (1:6, 9:30 min @ 20C) however I'm using 120 roll film instead of 8x10"
Thanks for taking the time to comment! Currently, I'm using D76 at 1:1. I started out using Ilsofol 3 and no matter what I did, it was building contrast too fast for my taste. The D76 allows me to keep the details in the highlights and shadows. I use a rotary processor, and this was developed for 6:36 minutes at 20°C. I generally reduce the development time to keep the highlight detail. Thanks!
Maybe the rotation was the reason for the contrasty negatives? I use "traditional" agitation: continously for the first 30 seconds and than twice every 60 seconds, very gently. But anyway if it works for you - and the photos that you shows are very impressive - then there is no reason for change. Keep continue your work I appreciate that very much
I agree, that is what I thought too. I tried trays as well, and I just couldn't get it to work for me. That is how I came to try FP4+ (it actually has a toe and shoulder on the curve, unlike Delta 100) and changing the developer to D76. So far I've been happy with the results. I'll keep with this combo for a bit and see how it does. Thanks!
If you are looking for another greate location for photography in your area you can try Emerson Point Park. I assume that you are living on the west coast of Fl. I visited that place this year in January. Very picturesque. I plan to return next year..
Thanks for the lead! I looked this up and will be going soon!
I like your work, that's why I am right now going through your videos. Just a short question: You seem to prefer very small aperture values, which leads to long exposures. I'd prefer the shortest shutter speed possible to avoid blurs. So the question is: How do you determine your aperture?
One can't use the ground glass for this, as one always needs to use a large aperture to focus (which results in an extra shallow depth of field). To determine the actual aperture one has basically to work blindly.... Or use something like this: www.dofmaster.com/dofjs.html
buyaport great question. Technically with a large format camera, you can use the front moments to get pretty much everything in focus. Then you can step down a little on the f-stop. However, since I shoot 8x10, I want to make sure everything is sharp, hence why I use small apertures. Also like in this video and the “Selby Waterfall” video, I wanted the water to be blurred, so I used small aperture for a creative look. If you want faster shutter speeds, you can also shoot HP5 which is about two stops faster than FP4+. Hope this helps and thanks for watching!
Thanks a lot for answering that fast (I wasn't expecting this). Coming from medium format I just have gathered some experience with a 100 year old Ernemann 9x12 cm camera (with a "Detektiv" lens - that's marketing for you!) and with f 9 to 12.5 - those weird numbers were used back then - I find I can get good sharpness (as far as sharpness goes with a camera that was meant to make photographs that were only contact printed). And of course it depends on your subject matter, as close-ups are more critical than landscapes which is what I prefer as subjects... I was just wondering what facts you base your settings on.
Well I'll just have to experiment with my "new" 1959 Graflex I just got -- using Fomapan 200 and 4x5 will allow for this. Again: Keep up the good work!
PS: I found that Fomapan 200 rated at ASA 100 is at least as good as FP4+, using a developer as Spur SD2525, at less than half the price.
buyaport No worries, that’s what I’m here for. I was told when I got into large format, the bigger the film, the smaller the f-stop needed to keep the same subject in focus. You may find on the 4x5 that f/22 will be as sharp as my f/64 since the film is a quarter of the size. Hope this makes sense. Thanks!