Our constructive method in Brazil is different, full of freshness, Admire and study the American methods and I regret that this type of input so simple adopted in America does not reach my country and when it arrives has prohibitive prices. I study your methods and create parallel alternatives to our reality with items common to our daily lives. Registered now
I had a shower installer use concrete bricks instead of 2x4 at the opening. Pretty much the same after that. In retrospect, seeing wood rot, bricks is a great idea.
Thanks Isaac! I’m making my 5th bathroom and your videos answer many questions . Last one was a solid slab shower with lineal drain. This one is a large wet room.
If you built it like this guy I hope you paid attn. when you tore it out! Get ready to do it again real soon! Sorry ! What I am really sorry about is people like this dude posting videos that are completely misleading others and costing them lots of money and pain when they follow his methods!
House keeper are also men. They are called Cleaning staff. Maids are what they were called in the day. Thanks for this video was very helpful. I have used this liner material before. This is the best product I have found to date. I feel like my next tile job will be better. Thanks Again.
I hear ya but a linear drain is the way to go. Besides how many people are diligent about cleaning their shower drains. It's generally only if they start to drain slow. If you are one of the very few that clean their drain regularly then there won't be any surprises no matter what style you install. I like the fact that the base is on a bit of a slope instead of angled sides plus not having to stand in the dirty bath water while it drains in the centre. I installed a shower for my Dad that utilizes a walker, the linear drain allowed me to eliminate a threshold for him to step over by installing the drain along the far wall. What a great application. Each to his own, though, but to me, it is the way to go. I like the fact that you can install the tile into it so only a small drain slit is visible.
I strictly use Schluter products from the pan to the wall boards and niches and curbs. You can install and start tiling that same day except the curbs because you have to allow to dry. I have been tiling for since 2013 and still learning the way they change and improve their products. Good to see how the old way is done since I'm taking over a homeowner attempt at the shower pan, which is this rubber membrane. Vary helpful thank you.
Yup... .. but... purple board? If your gonna do a shower...do it right. Who uses drywall anymore? I get called to rip it out. Now u know why. It's a moisture wick.
Great video! A trick I picked up, is to just cut an “X” over the drain hole and fold the liner flaps down into the drain. The ring will ensure they stay folded down. Just an extra measure.
The ring will not hold the pan down. I am also failing to see what extra protect that is providing. Also putting the silicone on the bottom flange of the drain before having the pan i place seems like a bad idea as well. Cutting the hole out for the drain properly allows you to lift the pan after it is secured to the walls and apply the silicone exactly where it is needed.
@@spencerhansen8374 The caulk groove? That groove is for the pan to be clamped down with the ridge on the clamp ring. The silicon bead should be between the grove and bolt holes. All pans are water tested for 24 hrs using a test ball. Test balls are used to ensure if a drain backs up the water won't leak under the pan. The inspector makes sure the pan drains and the weep holes are open. In 47 years I have never failed a pan inspection.
I'm a retired contractor. Never did bathrooms. I learned some great stuff. Thanks!!!! Going to watch more of your videos now while I am doing my own home bathroom. Rule one....Do a great job Rule two....Get your money y'all You really can't do one without the other.
@@TileCoach no way that purple moisture resistant drywall will last 10 years max or full 1 water leak...that would not fly in my area can't use drywall products in wet areas at all its only protected 1 side.
@@marcfavell Dude, it was a perfectly fine PAN install. And No, he didn't have to use the PAN liner to go over the bench. This was not a video of the water proofing of the shower. If it had been I would be right there with you. However, if I were to do this, I would use Kerdi or Redguard membrane over the drywall and bench to drain into the pan. However, for the purposed of this video he didn't show the rest of the shower install.
@@qball3835must be nice to just blow time and money for a video not properly done then. Myabe his company charges so much that they can just afford extra liner material???
Thanks for the way you do your curbs, that's what I was looking for. Mine are always fat because I keep more of the liner... P.S.... a faster way of cutting out your bolts and drain hole..., cut a cris-cross +.. across the top of the bolts and they just pop right through. And then cut your drain the same way, Then drop the flange down, and follow your direction of tightening down the bolts. You have no waste, and you have a tighter seal with all the liner getting pinned between the flanges!
Most membranes say right in the instructions not to be used on sheet rock. Like that hack startle does. This video is old and I have not seen this guy use sheetrock in the shower in his newer video. Sheetrock in shower wrong period. Also the seem at the liner is very bad.
@@tuppersdad another opportunity for them to not honor any warranty. They also say to apply with a trowel no? Schluter does work with sheetrock though doesnt it? I just tore apart a shower with green sheetrock and lathe on it. Sheet rock was completely dry no issues (except at the bottom where the sheetrock was making contact with the "shower pan) , and it didn't have a water barrier. Redgard says it can also be used as a shower pan liner. You beleive that? Or you form your own opinions?
@@MrTacolover42 I believe all the membranes can be used as a shower liner. Some you must use a mesh with it. Not sure how red gaurd works don't use it i don't think it is a great product. In my area commercial they use the laticrete products like hydroban for shower liners all the time.
Thanks for everything man I feel better and doing this myself. I love people like you who don’t gatekeeper trade knowledge. Thank you so much keep it up!
If when you get to the the curb fold of liner, don't make your cut on the liner straight up, instead cut liner(3rd)layer back horizontally towards back of shower so when it folds over curb you have that piece now up the curbs wall
Just subscribed to your channel, absolutely love your stuff man. I've been involved in construction for several years and love to see people take joy in their work!!!
Thanks for the step by step explanations. I'm a DIY'er tackling a shower rebuild for the first time. It started as regrouting the floor, we all know how that goes. I've watched a few videos here and yours is the only one that fully explains how the corner protectors are installed. Thanks again.
So different to how we do it in Aus. Great workmanship 🤙 we normally sheet the room with cement board (villa board) then caulk any seams, joins or screws and then paint on a waterproof membrane. It gives a even flat finish to tile on. For the floors we the lay a sand cement screed on top for falls. So interesting how different things are done
This is also done this way in the US. I’m going to be doing exactly that (except I’ll be doing a hard pack floor over a pan liner) but otherwise the same
I would like to see you showing viewers how to use a poured concrete curb with the pan liner run up in the middle of the curb. This I a way used to ensure pan doesn't get damaged or have a curb leak
58 year old tile setter here, you use dry pack not "Mud" correct? and since that looks like particle board, I always coat that type of material with Red Guard Water proofing. I use it in my YT. Its just added Protections from Moisture under the rubber dam sheeting.
No one explains that. Especially with all those freaking folds in the corners, and the thickness difference with the backer. Other videos say don't put backer over the membrane, but what holds the tile????
I have the same question. I need to know the missing steps between this video and the next one. What did you put over the pan liner on the wall to make it flush with the wall board? I am now stuck at the spot where this video ended. HELP !! Please.
We will notch the corner 2x studs out 1/8"-1/4" up to 6-8" high so that the corner folds recess into the framing a bit, keeps the durock or kerdi board from bowing out in those corners
Tile Coach you're the BOSS! Thank you for all the tutorials. I have a right sloping drain on 5 foot tub I want to replace with a walk-in shower pan. The current drain plumbing on the far right is about 8 inches from the wall. How do I slope the pan back to the drain?
I have zero expertise with tiles and bath renovations, but on the internet, everyone says no purple board in the shower area. Just curious, any reason you are using purple boards on the side, instead of cement boards? What works best? purple board + RedGard, or HardieBacker cement + RedGard? Thanks!
thanks for showing the drain assembly separate. It really helped to see that. Question - I notice the pan liner goes up the wall right on the wood blocking. Do you come back and put backer board over the pan liner on the wall? what do you do there?
I have the same question. I need to know the missing steps between this video and the next one. What did you put over the pan liner on the wall to make it flush with the wall board? I am now stuck at the spot where this video ended. HELP !! Please.
I build my benches out of cinder block. That way there's no way they can ever deteriorate. Skim coat with thinset when you are done and waterproof, they are good forever.
I love the fact that you realize it is important to pre-pitch your pan. As far as the weep holes go though, you should just put pea gravel around them allowing for water to get through all of it.
@@stevelopez372 I live in Ohio so just about everything is over wood floors. a shower setup is still the same no matter where you're at though. Everything requires a pan liner to be installed. Just make sure you level the area the bench is going to be built on.
I noticed on your video, that you didn't recess the wood(studs), to accommodate the folding of the membrane, that once folded, it creates a bulk and by consequence the bottom of the tile install scoops out, so how would you avoid the bulk on completing the wall (cement board or whatever element you use) ?
I tuck the edges nicely inside the studs like you are talking about. He floats his walls out to plumb his walls I used to do this but like my schlutter jolly edge to sit flush and true with the outside drywall edge. This also may take drywall floating for the cleanest finish.
Dude I went to roseville high. Trip to see a UA-cam vid and hear a local reference. Thanks for the video bro I’m remodeling my bathroom and needed this!
Thank you for making these videos! I'm not able to do this kind of work myself, but just seeing how it's done will be very helpful when choosing a contractor. (We'd love to hire YOU, but we're in Oregon!)
I just ripped out a shower in our new to us modular house in Florida. Difference was, they used Portland cement and tile above the liner. This wouldn't have been so bad, except the plumbing leaked inside the wet wall, trashing the flooring under the shower. I will have to redo the whole thing. Also no vapor liner was used. They just tiled over the regular sheet rock which also was fine, although I would have used mold resistant. I'm going to try solid sheets with a seat similar to what you have here. My layout is flip flopped, wet wall is on the right side looking at the shower from the front.
Thanks for the info man my boss asked me to tile his bathroom and I haven’t done tile in 6 years (been a concrete guy since). Putting in the membrane right now appreciate the video
Ok I stand corrected after watching your vid again about a couple of things! You did go high enough with the pan vinyl on the walls! You still however need some coaching (get it) about building benches in showers and everything i said about all that is still true! You gotta contain your bench inside your pan vinyl! You still havent addressed how that bench is ever going to be waterproof until you do!
Mr. ISAAC, you are definetly the tile coach i wanna learn from, any chance you have episodes in order start to finish, using a liner like in episode 9..
I’ve watched so many videos that I’m starting to confuse myself..where you stapled your liner to the blocking are you then covering that with a cement board?
there is actually a few ways that you could do it from this point. some people would just roll red guard on the purple gypsum board and then tile to that, and if the tile is big enough it will just hang down over the membrane. you could also put hardy over the top of the gypsum and then red guard and tile. ive always just done my pan liner first then put some 3mil plastic on the studs and then hang my 1/2 inch hardy on the studs leaving a 3 inch gap from the shower pan to the bottom edge of the hardy to keep it from wicking moisture up into the hardy. the disadvantage of this method is the corner folds of the liner bulge the hardy out in the corners so you would want to shave out a 1/4 inch on the back of the hardy where it is over the corner folds. also you need to make sure you studs are super plum, other wise youll be fighting it when laying you tile. i think he likes to float alot of his walls to make sure they come out plum. hope that helps.
I don't mind 'green board' as a sub layer behind durock but 'mud' cap trim isn't as common as it used to be. There's no way I'm putting tile on sheetrock except for kitchen splashes, even if I waterproof it. The gypsum wicks to easy. I'm not real keen with staples for the liner. They'll definitely rust out quicker than galvanized roof nails. Once the staple rusts out there's not much to keep it from sagging behind the wall.
Isaac First, 34 years in the trade, lesson #1, never say 'never', there's a first time for everything. Second, unless you're mudding the walls over your wallboard, you misunderstood what I said. I said durock is ok over sheetrock. I assumed you're mudding the base. And if you're not durocking over the wallboard, I'm assuming you're going to mud over the bottom part of the wall where the liner is and then waterproof the whole thing. Either way your mud base is going to sit on your liner. Your staples will eventually wear out (probably) and your pan, pre-sloped or not, will get wet to a degree, increasing the weight and pulling on the side of the liner. I'm not saying you're stupid or anything, if it works for you, go for it. I'm just saying why I wouldn't do it. By the way, If you look at my original comment, I was sticking up for you by telling the other guy you might have a perfectly good reason for having wallboard in your shower. Of course, if all you're going to do is waterproof it and then tile over it, that's messed up. I'll tell you what, if you still like doing it that way in 34 years we'll renew the discussion. By the way, even mudding the whole thing I still wouldn't use staples. Take it easy, whippersnapper.
Isaac No offense taken. Everybody has their own way of doing stuff. I don't mud walls because I don't work with a helper and it's just too much labor. Besides you've got to have a pretty thick skin to do videos because everybody is going to tell you you're goofy for this or that. My ego can't take it so I just do my jobs and TRY to mind my own business. A couple more years and I'll probably retire. Good luck.
@@trabajadoraenconstruccionu739 Actually I don't bother videoing myself. They say old habits are hard to break, I guess new ones are hard to start. I'm just getting to where I remember to take pictures when I'm through. Besides that, everybody has their own way of doing stuff. I like my way. It's worked pretty good for 34 years. And I learn something new all the time. I didn't think much of waterproofing until a couple of years ago then I tried red-gard so now I use it pretty regularly. To tell you the truth, I don't think my ego could stand all the jerks out there dumping on people because they do "this" or they do "that" (jerks like me sometimes) and they don't do it that way. But if you find anything I say helpful thanks for letting me know.
My question is what do u do about the thicknesses difference between the green rock and the liner? Do u go green rock back over the liner or pack it full of thinset ?
I keep the bolts out, install pan liner, cut a smaller hole than the drain in the liner, then X cut the rest so the liner folds down into the drain, then put a bead of caulk through the hole or by lifting the liner up making sure I go over the bolt holes!, I then push liner down by hand and you can feel where the holes are for the flange bolts I just put an X slice for the bolts putting more silicone in each hole. I also make my curbs out of mud bed mortar and run the liner up half through the curb so I don't have to cut my liner and rely on rubber cement. I water proof the inside of the curb and the top very well but leave the outside just motar so any moisture can wick through the grout lines and evaporate. I believe it is a must to use rocks around the drain so the water can weep into the weep holes easily. This is where all the water pools up.
I learned the trade from my dad and the tricky part that I cant seem to find an instructional video on is after I put the rubber liner on the curb. When I go to wrap it with cement board what would be the proper way of cement boarding the inside curb??? I can send you my email if youd rather respond through that I know everyone on the internet is an opinionated inspector.
@@cubancigar14i9 you can buy pre formed curbs bro. You should check them out. Drop the pan in seal it up and drop your preformed curb on top and nail to the front of the curb not the top or inside.
@@josephmerkle398 thanks for the reply, I've used those pre foamed curbs too but I mean in the instances where I'm wrapping 2x4 curbs with cement board. I'm curious to hear how other guys screw there curbs together when they wrap it with cement board
Only thing correct is pre slope corners on curb are irrelevant. If water gets to there it will flow over no mater what common sense and welcome to 2018 drywall is the 90s people always getting scamed from big companies and handymen do shitywork wtf this world
My Builder used a Wedi Shower Pan, Walls, Ceiling, and the Slightly sloped floor from the toilet. It was all taped with Wedi mesh, Wedi Polyurethane Caulk. There's nothing to rot, I don't see how it could ever leak. Another benefit is the Tile warms quickly. I don't recommend a tile bench, they are cold in the Winter, grow mold. We have a Teak corner bench. I take it out about three times, clean it, set it in the sun to dry, and saturate it with the Teak oil supplied by the bench manufacture.
This is a top class tile setter, He will most likely float the walls after he is done, this is top class and so does the end results of people like him.
@@cencoast_7.340 He is probably a contractor from California, one out of ten in California actually knows how to work 9 out of 10 only think they know.
I really appreciate you posting the videos up. It has helped me immensely. I am at the stage of installing the shower pan linear and have it exactly where you are in this video. My question is How do you seal the pan linear where it meats the backboard. A colleague of mine says the pan linear needs to be under the backer board so it does not leak.
you need to review the shower pan liner manufacture brochure. And read the instrucctions. Blue tape over the drain flange is unnecessary you need to use pea gravel amigo. And those corner cuts are not protecting the curb. And the exterior of the wall. What a way to desinform people with ignorance. Drywall screws min 8 inches a part. And never never install drywall in a moist environment.
@@TileCoach I got the point of meeting the code ordinance's i didn't have a chance to see your other video's. But trust me after seeing all the other pros doing shower pans and nailing them to install hardybaker and saying its fine we are going to apply redgard. Is unacceptable I feel is my obligation to upload some installations. I don't use hardy. We do custom work. And also never use any drywall behind a shower wall. If the point is to meet the thickness for corneround. I seen shower walls attach to the framing with 1/2 inch staples and almost get hurt at the demolition. Grettings from S.B. cal.
@@TileCoach please Don't answer this kind of people,i would like to see your videos and learn,there is always haters,they can send us a link,so we can go see theirs videos😁
Awsome reminds me of roofing i do commercial roofing and hand weld pvc and tpo materials at corners and ac curbs on roofs we call those corners hog ears I wonder if an 0.60 thickness pvc membrane can be used as a liner . I know I can make that waterproof and hand weld the corners with a heat gun . Love your videos hopefully be doing my bathrooms over in my new house thanks to your videos
Number one problem I see. You never use a water resistant sheetrock inside a shower. I prefer Durock and all my showers. Water resistant sheetrock is for Steam and a little water spillage. Not to go in a shower because it will absorb water like a sponge
I prefer a linear drain for many reasons. 1) For balance issues, having no sloping sides etc. 2) Large tile installation. 3) Easy to prepare, having an even slope from one end to the other. 4) Less time to prepare and to install large tiles. 5) Never have to stand in your shower water, it all goes towards the linear drain under the
I thought I wanted a linear drain myself, until I talked to a buddy whose shower has one. He said that he has to clean it frequently, and that it gets kinda disgusting below the grate. Changed my mind to a FloFX drain.
As long as you have slope under the vinyl liner you could but wood subfloors arent built with slope built in! They are built flat thats the nature of the material! Code says 1/4” per ft to the drain ! So if the drain is in the center it needs slope all the way around it first before the vinyl liner goes in! Best way to achieve that is with mortar and let it dry! The whole purpose of that is because water penetrates! It penetrates grout, mortar ,even tile! It penetrates cracked caulking joints in the corners! It doesnt care! When it penetrates it first hits the vinyl pan ,then travels towards the drain which has weep holes around it! If you installed your pan vinyl correctly, you should have caulked the vinyl pan to the drain flange being careful not to plug those weepholes! The water hits the vinyl and goes down the weep holes into the sewer ! If its not sloped under the vinyl it goes to where water goes to which is whatever is downhill! Meaning the curb or the corners of the shower, seat, etc where it becomes acidic because there is no oxygen in that airtight environment! It starts collecting there eating away at the vinyl until a hole is formed and it continues on its downhill journey to your freshly tiled wall and floor substrates (drywall or whatever and subfloor)! Thats a how to in a nutshell on how to build a waterproof shower enclosure!
Awesome video. Only recommendation I have is to tell the audience that the bottom board (in my opinion/experience) should be 1/4” to cover the liner. It’s easier to build the bottom row/rows of tile out instead of putting 1/2” on like the rest of the showe and the board being kicked out too much because it’s on the liner. I love your videos, learned a lot
I am running into this issue, wondering how I transition from the tile on the wall to the bottom ~10 inches of tile over my pan liner. So you're saying drop down to 1/4" for the bottom piece of Durok? Could I just build up the walls on the bottom 10 inches with mud in order to make it flush to the 1/2" walls?
Im 56 been doing this for over 30 + years and i love learning and watching.like this guys attitude .
Our constructive method in Brazil is different, full of freshness, Admire and study the American methods and I regret that this type of input so simple adopted in America does not reach my country and when it arrives has prohibitive prices. I study your methods and create parallel alternatives to our reality with items common to our daily lives. Registered now
I had a shower installer use concrete bricks instead of 2x4 at the opening. Pretty much the same after that. In retrospect, seeing wood rot, bricks is a great idea.
Only thing I do different. No 2x4 in the curb. I run my liner through the middle of a sand mix curb. The only place my liner is cut is for the drain.
Awesome I do the same thing!
Thanks Isaac! I’m making my 5th bathroom and your videos answer many questions . Last one was a solid slab shower with lineal drain. This one is a large wet room.
Fantastic help! I tore out my shower and am rebuilding it. Your videos are so helpful! Thank you and God Bless you Isaac
If you built it like this guy I hope you paid attn. when you tore it out! Get ready to do it again real soon! Sorry ! What I am really sorry about is people like this dude posting videos that are completely misleading others and costing them lots of money and pain when they follow his methods!
Thanks for showing how to use those pre-formed corners.
Love that you share your knowledge. Isaac, you are a good man.
Old Orange County ca tile setter !!, nice videos !! Hot mop is still the best !! , Your a good mechanic !! , it’s good to see !! Thanks , Rick
You Rock!!! Been doing tile 40 years and you do it right!!!! and I'm just a girl.
40 yrs? And you think this guy does it right? My friend,You need better education than watching this guy! I dont care if you are girl or guy!
Love the attitude! When you still want to keep learning, then you are on your way to doing a great job!
House keeper are also men. They are called Cleaning staff. Maids are what they were called in the day. Thanks for this video was very helpful. I have used this liner material before. This is the best product I have found to date. I feel like my next tile job will be better. Thanks Again.
I like when tradesmen can admit there may be a better way. I learn something every day
I hear ya but a linear drain is the way to go. Besides how many people are diligent about cleaning their shower drains. It's generally only if they start to drain slow. If you are one of the very few that clean their drain regularly then there won't be any surprises no matter what style you install. I like the fact that the base is on a bit of a slope instead of angled sides plus not having to stand in the dirty bath water while it drains in the centre. I installed a shower for my Dad that utilizes a walker, the linear drain allowed me to eliminate a threshold for him to step over by installing the drain along the far wall. What a great application. Each to his own, though, but to me, it is the way to go. I like the fact that you can install the tile into it so only a small drain slit is visible.
Nice detail with your shower liner. I remember when you used to tar your old showers.
I strictly use Schluter products from the pan to the wall boards and niches and curbs. You can install and start tiling that same day except the curbs because you have to allow to dry. I have been tiling for since 2013 and still learning the way they change and improve their products. Good to see how the old way is done since I'm taking over a homeowner attempt at the shower pan, which is this rubber membrane. Vary helpful thank you.
Yup... .. but... purple board? If your gonna do a shower...do it right. Who uses drywall anymore? I get called to rip it out. Now u know why. It's a moisture wick.
Great video! A trick I picked up, is to just cut an “X” over the drain hole and fold the liner flaps down into the drain. The ring will ensure they stay folded down. Just an extra measure.
The ring will not hold the pan down. I am also failing to see what extra protect that is providing. Also putting the silicone on the bottom flange of the drain before having the pan i place seems like a bad idea as well. Cutting the hole out for the drain properly allows you to lift the pan after it is secured to the walls and apply the silicone exactly where it is needed.
I guess if you cut. Perfect O the theory is water may run back under it as it drains. Who knows
Another experiment for the tile coach to do!
@@vic1sch the caulk groove is exactly where it needs to be, how are you planning to change that by not caulking first. Fighting it later doesn't help.
@@spencerhansen8374 The caulk groove? That groove is for the pan to be clamped down with the ridge on the clamp ring. The silicon bead should be between the grove and bolt holes. All pans are water tested for 24 hrs using a test ball. Test balls are used to ensure if a drain backs up the water won't leak under the pan. The inspector makes sure the pan drains and the weep holes are open. In 47 years I have never failed a pan inspection.
I'm a retired contractor. Never did bathrooms. I learned some great stuff. Thanks!!!!
Going to watch more of your videos now while I am doing my own home bathroom.
Rule one....Do a great job
Rule two....Get your money y'all
You really can't do one without the other.
Thank goodness for UA-cam, It's job security for me. I'll be behind these guys
@@TileCoach no way that purple moisture resistant drywall will last 10 years max or full 1 water leak...that would not fly in my area can't use drywall products in wet areas at all its only protected 1 side.
And you should have went higher over the bench with the pvc liner
@@marcfavell Dude, it was a perfectly fine PAN install. And No, he didn't have to use the PAN liner to go over the bench.
This was not a video of the water proofing of the shower. If it had been I would be right there with you. However, if I were to do this, I would use Kerdi or Redguard membrane over the drywall and bench to drain into the pan. However, for the purposed of this video he didn't show the rest of the shower install.
@@marcfavell first thing I was gonna say... Hardy is the chit!
@@qball3835must be nice to just blow time and money for a video not properly done then. Myabe his company charges so much that they can just afford extra liner material???
Thanks for the way you do your curbs, that's what I was looking for.
Mine are always fat because I keep more of the liner...
P.S.... a faster way of cutting out your bolts and drain hole..., cut a cris-cross +.. across the top of the bolts and they just pop right through.
And then cut your drain the same way, Then drop the flange down, and follow your direction of tightening down the bolts. You have no waste, and you have a tighter seal with all the liner getting pinned between the flanges!
Thank you for sharing. Your knowledge is not falling on deaf ears.
I replace a few showers a year that have been done like this. I used to curse at this. Now, it’s job security! Thanks man!!
Drywall is a great tile backer but ONLY for dry areas... Never in a wet environment like a shower!!
He's likely going to put a water barrier on this mold resistant drywall, and probably epoxy grout after. That backer board will never see water!
Most membranes say right in the instructions not to be used on sheet rock. Like that hack startle does. This video is old and I have not seen this guy use sheetrock in the shower in his newer video. Sheetrock in shower wrong period. Also the seem at the liner is very bad.
@@tuppersdad another opportunity for them to not honor any warranty. They also say to apply with a trowel no? Schluter does work with sheetrock though doesnt it?
I just tore apart a shower with green sheetrock and lathe on it. Sheet rock was completely dry no issues (except at the bottom where the sheetrock was making contact with the "shower pan) , and it didn't have a water barrier.
Redgard says it can also be used as a shower pan liner. You beleive that? Or you form your own opinions?
@@MrTacolover42 I believe all the membranes can be used as a shower liner. Some you must use a mesh with it. Not sure how red gaurd works don't use it i don't think it is a great product. In my area commercial they use the laticrete products like hydroban for shower liners all the time.
Never use sheetrock for a wet area like a shower. Always make sure pan liner is 6” above fill line(curb).
Thanks for everything man I feel better and doing this myself. I love people like you who don’t gatekeeper trade knowledge. Thank you so much keep it up!
How do you put tile on that surface
@@raymondmaglaris4149 You dont. You put a mortar bed over that liner first. Let it dry. Then tile goes on mortar bed.
@@porcelinaofthevastoceans3903 wow ez pz makes a lot of sense
If when you get to the the curb fold of liner, don't make your cut on the liner straight up, instead cut liner(3rd)layer back horizontally towards back of shower so when it folds over curb you have that piece now up the curbs wall
Thanks Isaac! I laid down my slope layer and pan yesterday. Going to float walls today!
Just subscribed to your channel, absolutely love your stuff man. I've been involved in construction for several years and love to see people take joy in their work!!!
Same here
Thanks for the step by step explanations. I'm a DIY'er tackling a shower rebuild for the first time. It started as regrouting the floor, we all know how that goes. I've watched a few videos here and yours is the only one that fully explains how the corner protectors are installed. Thanks again.
How do you account for the difference in thickness between the liner and the board above it when installing the tile?
That video was very helpful you made it look so easy which I'm sure it's not .I wish I could find someone as talented in my area to work on my shower
So different to how we do it in Aus. Great workmanship 🤙 we normally sheet the room with cement board (villa board) then caulk any seams, joins or screws and then paint on a waterproof membrane. It gives a even flat finish to tile on. For the floors we the lay a sand cement screed on top for falls. So interesting how different things are done
This is also done this way in the US. I’m going to be doing exactly that (except I’ll be doing a hard pack floor over a pan liner) but otherwise the same
I would like to see you showing viewers how to use a poured concrete curb with the pan liner run up in the middle of the curb. This I a way used to ensure pan doesn't get damaged or have a curb leak
i use small rocks, gravel 1/4" max around the weep holes while sand mix goes on. its a good trick. peace
very hot teacher
I was taught the same. 👍🏻
58 year old tile setter here, you use dry pack not "Mud" correct? and since that looks like particle board,
I always coat that type of material with Red Guard Water proofing. I use it in my YT. Its just added
Protections from Moisture under the rubber dam sheeting.
We do things a lot a like,i never use wood on my curb though i form it and pour a solid concrete curb
Amazing Video! I don't know what I'm doing, but I'm sure I can get it done after watching the video. Thank you!
How do you plan to tile over the liner at the lower wall areas? More drywall!!???
Did you ever figure it out? I have the samequestion
No one explains that. Especially with all those freaking folds in the corners, and the thickness difference with the backer. Other videos say don't put backer over the membrane, but what holds the tile????
I have the same question. I need to know the missing steps between this video and the next one. What did you put over the pan liner on the wall to make it flush with the wall board? I am now stuck at the spot where this video ended. HELP !! Please.
Keep up the good work!
Friendly tip: try using a rubber dead blow hammer and gently hit the top of bolts to make a very fast exact fit. 👍🏻
Awesome instructional video! Thanks for sharing your experience and expertise! God bless in Jesus'name bro!
Awesome,SPECTACULAR, Beautiful Handiwork excellent workmanship.
We will notch the corner 2x studs out 1/8"-1/4" up to 6-8" high so that the corner folds recess into the framing a bit, keeps the durock or kerdi board from bowing out in those corners
I don’t know why I’m watching this, but I enjoy your videos.
Tile Coach you're the BOSS! Thank you for all the tutorials. I have a right sloping drain on 5 foot tub I want to replace with a walk-in shower pan. The current drain plumbing on the far right is about 8 inches from the wall. How do I slope the pan back to the drain?
I have zero expertise with tiles and bath renovations, but on the internet, everyone says no purple board in the shower area. Just curious, any reason you are using purple boards on the side, instead of cement boards?
What works best? purple board + RedGard, or HardieBacker cement + RedGard? Thanks!
thanks for showing the drain assembly separate. It really helped to see that. Question - I notice the pan liner goes up the wall right on the wood blocking. Do you come back and put backer board over the pan liner on the wall? what do you do there?
Same question ...as pan liner should be behind the wall board or backerboard.
I have the same question. I need to know the missing steps between this video and the next one. What did you put over the pan liner on the wall to make it flush with the wall board? I am now stuck at the spot where this video ended. HELP !! Please.
Best illustration of using those corner thingies that I've seen yet. Well done!
I build my benches out of cinder block. That way there's no way they can ever deteriorate. Skim coat with thinset when you are done and waterproof, they are good forever.
I love the fact that you realize it is important to pre-pitch your pan. As far as the weep holes go though, you should just put pea gravel around them allowing for water to get through all of it.
tom styer good idea, what about on wood floor two story house? Thinking about new tiled shower with bench.
@@stevelopez372 I live in Ohio so just about everything is over wood floors. a shower setup is still the same no matter where you're at though. Everything requires a pan liner to be installed. Just make sure you level the area the bench is going to be built on.
You can check out some of my pictures at Tom's Tile on FB.
Cinder block bench is great idea
Thanks brother, I needed to see this!
I noticed on your video, that you didn't recess the wood(studs), to accommodate the folding of the membrane, that once folded, it creates a bulk and by consequence the bottom of the tile install scoops out, so how would you avoid the bulk on completing the wall (cement board or whatever element you use) ?
Isn't there going to be mortar/ thinset on top of that ?
I tuck the edges nicely inside the studs like you are talking about. He floats his walls out to plumb his walls I used to do this but like my schlutter jolly edge to sit flush and true with the outside drywall edge. This also may take drywall floating for the cleanest finish.
Great video. Alot better than the others I watched for this drain. Great job, I feel very good about installing it now
8
How do you account for the difference in thickness between the backboard and pan liner?
thinset
There's so many half assed videos on this out there. I am definitely doing it just like this!
Dude I went to roseville high. Trip to see a UA-cam vid and hear a local reference. Thanks for the video bro I’m remodeling my bathroom and needed this!
Thanks bro Tomorrow I am gonna do it by myself for my New bathroom.
Thank you for making these videos! I'm not able to do this kind of work myself, but just seeing how it's done will be very helpful when choosing a contractor. (We'd love to hire YOU, but we're in Oregon!)
How did you water proof the bench and walls? Do you have more videos tied to this specific project?
You're back! Good video, we do pan liners all the time, but not with those corners. How do you make those corners?
Good to know, I'm gonna stock up, thanks man!
Do you need to preslope a concrete shower floor or you could just mix yout mortor and slope it to the drain.
Nice work. I can’t wait to work on my shower. And thanks for teaching me.
Only pan liner cement/glue that's worth a sh1t is Pasco. I've had problems with all the rest but Pasco has never failed me....
I just ripped out a shower in our new to us modular house in Florida. Difference was, they used Portland cement and tile above the liner. This wouldn't have been so bad, except the plumbing leaked inside the wet wall, trashing the flooring under the shower. I will have to redo the whole thing. Also no vapor liner was used. They just tiled over the regular sheet rock which also was fine, although I would have used mold resistant. I'm going to try solid sheets with a seat similar to what you have here. My layout is flip flopped, wet wall is on the right side looking at the shower from the front.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge my friend, I really appreciate your videos.👍
Thanks for the info man my boss asked me to tile his bathroom and I haven’t done tile in 6 years (been a concrete guy since). Putting in the membrane right now appreciate the video
Nice installation
Do you do leakage test before tiling
He better with the pan being that short and as many staples as he put in it 😂😂😂
Ok I stand corrected after watching your vid again about a couple of things! You did go high enough with the pan vinyl on the walls! You still however need some coaching (get it) about building benches in showers and everything i said about all that is still true! You gotta contain your bench inside your pan vinyl! You still havent addressed how that bench is ever going to be waterproof until you do!
isaac, do you have a video on doing the pre slope?
It's 0.25% minimum. For every 12" youll drop 1/4".
Thank you coach. Im new to shower pans but i love the trades and definitely need help/ guidance at times,
Is there a part 2 to this video?
Mr. ISAAC, you are definetly the tile coach i wanna learn from, any chance you have episodes in order start to finish, using a liner like in episode 9..
I’ve watched so many videos that I’m starting to confuse myself..where you stapled your liner to the blocking are you then covering that with a cement board?
there is actually a few ways that you could do it from this point. some people would just roll red guard on the purple gypsum board and then tile to that, and if the tile is big enough it will just hang down over the membrane. you could also put hardy over the top of the gypsum and then red guard and tile. ive always just done my pan liner first then put some 3mil plastic on the studs and then hang my 1/2 inch hardy on the studs leaving a 3 inch gap from the shower pan to the bottom edge of the hardy to keep it from wicking moisture up into the hardy. the disadvantage of this method is the corner folds of the liner bulge the hardy out in the corners so you would want to shave out a 1/4 inch on the back of the hardy where it is over the corner folds. also you need to make sure you studs are super plum, other wise youll be fighting it when laying you tile. i think he likes to float alot of his walls to make sure they come out plum. hope that helps.
Like the use of the existing materials to counter the prefab corners
So now I have to intern with some maids to learn how to fold shower pan liners.
Great work bro very informable teacher in the trade
You are not supposed to use sheet rock. By code you must use cement board inside the shower.
I don't mind 'green board' as a sub layer behind durock but 'mud' cap trim isn't as common as it used to be. There's no way I'm putting tile on sheetrock except for kitchen splashes, even if I waterproof it. The gypsum wicks to easy. I'm not real keen with staples for the liner. They'll definitely rust out quicker than galvanized roof nails. Once the staple rusts out there's not much to keep it from sagging behind the wall.
Isaac
First, 34 years in the trade, lesson #1, never say 'never', there's a first time for everything.
Second, unless you're mudding the walls over your wallboard, you misunderstood what I said.
I said durock is ok over sheetrock. I assumed you're mudding the base. And if you're not durocking over the wallboard, I'm assuming you're going to mud over the bottom part of the wall where the liner is and then waterproof the whole thing. Either way your mud base is going to sit on your liner. Your staples will eventually wear out (probably) and your pan, pre-sloped or not, will get wet to a degree, increasing the weight and pulling on the side of the liner. I'm not saying you're stupid or anything, if it works for you, go for it.
I'm just saying why I wouldn't do it. By the way,
If you look at my original comment, I was sticking up for you by telling the other guy you might have a perfectly good reason for having wallboard in your shower. Of course, if all you're going to do is waterproof it and then tile over it, that's messed up.
I'll tell you what, if you still like doing it that way in 34 years we'll renew the discussion.
By the way, even mudding the whole thing I still wouldn't use staples.
Take it easy, whippersnapper.
Isaac
No offense taken. Everybody has their
own way of doing stuff. I don't mud walls because I don't work with a helper and it's just too much labor.
Besides you've got to have a pretty thick skin to do videos because everybody is going to tell you you're goofy for this or that. My ego can't take it so I just do my jobs and TRY to mind my own business. A couple more years and I'll probably retire.
Good luck.
@@richardharris8399 give me a link to see your videos , Sr,it seems like you have your own channel,do ya
@@trabajadoraenconstruccionu739 Actually I don't bother videoing myself. They say old habits are hard to break, I guess new ones are hard to start.
I'm just getting to where I remember to take pictures when I'm through. Besides that, everybody has their own way of doing stuff. I like my way. It's worked pretty good for 34 years. And I learn something new all the time. I didn't think much of waterproofing until a couple of years ago then I tried red-gard so now I use it pretty regularly.
To tell you the truth, I don't think my ego could stand all the jerks out there dumping on people because they do "this" or they do "that" (jerks like me sometimes) and they don't do it that way.
But if you find anything I say helpful thanks for letting me know.
My question is what do u do about the thicknesses difference between the green rock and the liner? Do u go green rock back over the liner or pack it full of thinset ?
Lath followed by mud!
No water test??
I also noticed that, usually ween install the pan linear, water test it wait about 30-45 min and then cut the drain
Great video boss. So you would recommend leveling the slab with thinset BEFORE you put the liner in?
Starr tile what do you think about this video????
starr tile is a JOKE !!
@@billhamilton7524 agree!!!!!!!
I keep the bolts out, install pan liner, cut a smaller hole than the drain in the liner, then X cut the rest so the liner folds down into the drain, then put a bead of caulk through the hole or by lifting the liner up making sure I go over the bolt holes!, I then push liner down by hand and you can feel where the holes are for the flange bolts I just put an X slice for the bolts putting more silicone in each hole. I also make my curbs out of mud bed mortar and run the liner up half through the curb so I don't have to cut my liner and rely on rubber cement. I water proof the inside of the curb and the top very well but leave the outside just motar so any moisture can wick through the grout lines and evaporate. I believe it is a must to use rocks around the drain so the water can weep into the weep holes easily. This is where all the water pools up.
Bench made out of wood inside shower not good at all. Sheetrock on walls that's bad
He floats all of his showers with wire lath and mortar.
Been done for decades
Yes that's what I thought to it's not good it will last for maybe five years
Great video. You're one of the few who explained how to cover the curb.
I learned the trade from my dad and the tricky part that I cant seem to find an instructional video on is after I put the rubber liner on the curb. When I go to wrap it with cement board what would be the proper way of cement boarding the inside curb??? I can send you my email if youd rather respond through that I know everyone on the internet is an opinionated inspector.
@@cubancigar14i9 you can buy pre formed curbs bro. You should check them out. Drop the pan in seal it up and drop your preformed curb on top and nail to the front of the curb not the top or inside.
@@josephmerkle398 thanks for the reply, I've used those pre foamed curbs too
but I mean in the instances where I'm wrapping 2x4 curbs with cement board. I'm curious to hear how other guys screw there curbs together when they wrap it with cement board
Only thing correct is pre slope corners on curb are irrelevant. If water gets to there it will flow over no mater what common sense and welcome to 2018 drywall is the 90s people always getting scamed from big companies and handymen do shitywork wtf this world
My Builder used a Wedi Shower Pan, Walls, Ceiling, and the Slightly sloped floor from the toilet. It was all taped with Wedi mesh, Wedi Polyurethane Caulk. There's nothing to rot, I don't see how it could ever leak. Another benefit is the Tile warms quickly. I don't recommend a tile bench, they are cold in the Winter, grow mold. We have a Teak corner bench. I take it out about three times, clean it, set it in the sun to dry, and saturate it with the Teak oil supplied by the bench manufacture.
Purple boards REALLY!!! U fail before u start
This is a top class tile setter, He will most likely float the walls after he is done, this is top class and so does the end results of people like him.
Purple board is fine as long as you coat it in something like red guard
Not at all a fail. He's floating over it...100% ok. Stfu
@@cencoast_7.340 He is probably a contractor from California, one out of ten in California actually knows how to work 9 out of 10 only think they know.
2strokesnPwrstrokes except floating it doesn’t fix the problem
I really appreciate you posting the videos up. It has helped me immensely. I am at the stage of installing the shower pan linear and have it exactly where you are in this video. My question is How do you seal the pan linear where it meats the backboard. A colleague of mine says the pan linear needs to be under the backer board so it does not leak.
No sabes colocar el shower pan
you need to review the shower pan liner manufacture brochure. And read the instrucctions. Blue tape over the drain flange is unnecessary you need to use pea gravel amigo. And those corner cuts are not protecting the curb. And the exterior of the wall. What a way to desinform people with ignorance.
Drywall screws min 8 inches a part.
And never never install drywall in a moist environment.
@@TileCoach
I got the point of meeting the code ordinance's i didn't have a chance to see your other video's.
But trust me after seeing all the other pros doing shower pans and nailing them to install hardybaker and saying its fine we are going to apply redgard. Is unacceptable I feel is my obligation to upload some installations.
I don't use hardy. We do custom work. And also never use any drywall behind a shower wall.
If the point is to meet the thickness for corneround.
I seen shower walls attach to the framing with 1/2 inch staples and almost get hurt at the demolition.
Grettings from S.B. cal.
@@oscararroyoperez1867 there is more than one way to skin a 🐈 the point is that the cat get skind. Right.
@@TileCoach please Don't answer this kind of people,i would like to see your videos and learn,there is always haters,they can send us a link,so we can go see theirs videos😁
Ricardo Campos, tienes tu algun video donde nos puedas enseñar como se hace???
Thanks a lot for the tips.
Just wonder if you have a chance to us how to attach the shower base to the PVC pipe
Thank you very much
I lost interest when I saw drywall as your backer . Not even code.
Lol same here in cali
Purple rock is allowed in most states and countys.
Densshield is code in my county too. Cant use hardy back.
F Vids It all depends on where you live. With that said , I only use cement boards under my bathroom tiles. You just can’t go wrong with it.
Awsome reminds me of roofing i do commercial roofing and hand weld pvc and tpo materials at corners and ac curbs on roofs we call those corners hog ears I wonder if an 0.60 thickness pvc membrane can be used as a liner . I know I can make that waterproof and hand weld the corners with a heat gun . Love your videos hopefully be doing my bathrooms over in my new house thanks to your videos
If you want to know how not to do things he's got 3/4 of them covered .
Number one problem I see. You never use a water resistant sheetrock inside a shower. I prefer Durock and all my showers. Water resistant sheetrock is for Steam and a little water spillage. Not to go in a shower because it will absorb water like a sponge
Great job. Nevada Union was no joke in football.
Bad job bro!👎
"Sometimes its a little tricky" that is the nicest I've ever heard that said..
love it I have old house do not think the floor can handle wieght of a floated pan?
Sweet dude thanks for the video! Gonna give this a shot
I prefer a linear drain for many reasons. 1) For balance issues, having no sloping sides etc. 2) Large tile installation. 3) Easy to prepare, having an even slope from one end to the other. 4) Less time to prepare and to install large tiles. 5) Never have to stand in your shower water, it all goes towards the linear drain under the
I thought I wanted a linear drain myself, until I talked to a buddy whose shower has one. He said that he has to clean it frequently, and that it gets kinda disgusting below the grate. Changed my mind to a FloFX drain.
Thank you 4 your videos...I'm tryng to convert my tub shower in to a walk in so I'm watching all your videos related to this.
I swear we're the only plumbers with socket sets
Thanx for the up load, awesome job
Can I install PVC liner over subfloor without mortar underneath the liner.Thank you.
As long as you have slope under the vinyl liner you could but wood subfloors arent built with slope built in! They are built flat thats the nature of the material! Code says 1/4” per ft to the drain ! So if the drain is in the center it needs slope all the way around it first before the vinyl liner goes in! Best way to achieve that is with mortar and let it dry! The whole purpose of that is because water penetrates! It penetrates grout, mortar ,even tile! It penetrates cracked caulking joints in the corners! It doesnt care! When it penetrates it first hits the vinyl pan ,then travels towards the drain which has weep holes around it! If you installed your pan vinyl correctly, you should have caulked the vinyl pan to the drain flange being careful not to plug those weepholes! The water hits the vinyl and goes down the weep holes into the sewer ! If its not sloped under the vinyl it goes to where water goes to which is whatever is downhill! Meaning the curb or the corners of the shower, seat, etc where it becomes acidic because there is no oxygen in that airtight environment! It starts collecting there eating away at the vinyl until a hole is formed and it continues on its downhill journey to your freshly tiled wall and floor substrates (drywall or whatever and subfloor)! Thats a how to in a nutshell on how to build a waterproof shower enclosure!
It works to hold the liner in place normally roofing with a flat head work well
Awesome video. Only recommendation I have is to tell the audience that the bottom board (in my opinion/experience) should be 1/4” to cover the liner. It’s easier to build the bottom row/rows of tile out instead of putting 1/2” on like the rest of the showe and the board being kicked out too much because it’s on the liner. I love your videos, learned a lot
I am running into this issue, wondering how I transition from the tile on the wall to the bottom ~10 inches of tile over my pan liner. So you're saying drop down to 1/4" for the bottom piece of Durok? Could I just build up the walls on the bottom 10 inches with mud in order to make it flush to the 1/2" walls?