How To Change A V Glide On A Golf Cart
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- Опубліковано 13 жов 2024
- In this video we will cover how to change out the V glide (speed control) in your golf cart.
Do It Yourself Golf Repair In A Couple Quick And Easy Steps
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Very informative, thanks for sharing.
Thank you
Thank you for the video. Well done.
Hi. Got an old 97 DS selonoid clicks but cart wont run. With that said, does that mean the selonoid is Good? And vglide is goid also? Maybe the controller us the problem? Thank you
I know this video is old but any idea where I can get a pack of resistors for this type of vglide now? I cant seem to find a place and I dont want to spend 300 on new vglide
Try nivel
If the solenoid is clicking, then that means the control circuit is working.
Take a volt meter, put the negative probe on your battery pack negative, and touch the red probe to one of the big solenoid terminals.
You should have full voltage on one big terminal all the time, and when your solenoid clicks, see if you have pack voltage on the other big solenoid terminal.
Hey Wayne I have a 1998 club cart ds. Can you do a video on regular maintenance items that need to be cleaned replaced etc. I’m always trying to keep my golf cart on top shape and know there is more to it than just cleaning and maintaining batteries but am not sure of the steps. Thanks.
I'll keep that in mind, and put it on my list.
Thank you👍
Hi Wayne I'm glad I found your channel a lot of helpful videos. I have a 1992 Club Car 36v. Batteries are decent and brand new motor controller. Full throttle I can go forever and not have an issue but slowly putting around the yard my cart shuts off. Initially it goes again pretty quickly but the more times it cuts out the longer the wait time is before it "resets". I'm thinking the motor controller is shutting off on maybe a thermal shutdown or something. Could a worn V-Glide in slower speeds cause too much resistance and cause the controller to shut down? I have the solenoid bypassed right now to eliminate that component. I have noticed the heavy gauge wires at the forward reverse switch are warmer during slow driving than they are at full throttle. Thank you for any advice.
Batteries. It sounds like your batteries are on the downside of their life. I know you dont want to hear that, but that is your issue.
That cart was not meant to go slow for any distance at all. It was made to go a few humdred feet, stop, hut ball, ho another few hundred feet etc.
You described all the correct symptoms.
@@waynemartin.waynesgolfcart4900 Thank you Wayne. My batteries are about 7 years old so I can see them being the problem. Can you explain why partial throttle is harder on the batteries and electrical system than full throttle? I take my dogs for Saturday morning rides and go full throttle for about 6 miles at a time and never have a problem, but going slow around the yard I get about 300 feet then it cuts out, then gets more frequent each time about every 50-100 feet.
The slower you go the more amps you're pushing through the wiring. More amps equals more heat.
@@waynemartin.waynesgolfcart4900 Just a quick update. Although I do think my batteries are close to end of life. I spent a few hours yesterday evening with my multimeter and stumbled across a short on the coil side of the solenoid. When I said I bypassed the solenoid I only had the heavy gauge switching side bypassed and left the small coil wires connected. One side of the coil is 36V+ from the key switch, forward switch and pedal switch circuit. The other side is ground from the motor controller terminal. The coil was intermittently shorting out causing the motor controller to fault. I think heat was causing the short so when the solenoid cooled slightly it went away and the controller turned back on. Intermittent things like that are so hard to find sometimes.
yes they are, you can spend days chasing something like that.
I have an issue with speeed staying in high gear.I can slam pedal down and it goes well then slows down to
Medium speed.
You didn't say if you have a vglide or not. If you do , open it and see if it needs adjustment or if the pads are worn or burnt.
Wayne, Thanks!!! I have a few questions, I purchased a 1997 ?? Club Car, 36 volts It has the same V-glide, 5 resistor coils and 5 solenoids. I have no electrical schematic. What is the reason for the solenoids?? And it don’t move when pedal is depressed until almost to the floor and still moves slow. Batteries are 1year old also. A little advice will be appreciated very much. And do you have a club car page number or a full electrical schematic you could send? Big Thanks.......Jimmyb
Jimmy that cart is an oldy.
So you know, that cart will always be slow, even when everything is working correctly.
You say the batteries are 1 year old, what brand batteries are they, and are they golf cart batteries?
You can text or email me a picture of them so i can see them.
If the batteries are good, the issue will probably be with the vglide, the coils or the solenoids.
The coils are the speed control, there is a coil for each stage of speed.
There is also a solenoid for each coil. You should jack up cart, remove seat, and verify that when you step on the pedal, slowly, you should hear the solenoids clicking 1 after the other.
Its also possible that 1 or more solenoids are bad and someone has bypassed some of them.
Send me pictures of your entire battery area so i can see the wiring of everything including the coils and solenoids.
Also try cleaning and sanding the copper pads inside the vglide, you may have a bad vglide.
wayne martin Thanks, ill see if I can take a few pic, or a video, also I believe that it’s a 3.2 hp motor, and I was thinking about changing that to more HP, but not sure yet.
new motor wont help you unlessnold one is bad.
wayne martin I apologize!! I thought their was 5 solenoids (see pc’s) It just has the resistor coils, ( & in need of a good cleaning along with ALL wire eyelets or wire terminations). The V-glide sweeper looks worn but making a good connection. The 4 of the 6 batteries are Trojan’s, load tested all and are more than 6 + volts. All suggestions are appreciated, Thanks again.....Jimmyb
Having problems with UA-cam photos, if you could send your email address, I would appreciate that very much. Jimmyb
Thank you for the nice comment!
Hi Wayne. I have a 2000.5 DS 36v to 48v conversion. It runs for a few feet and then cuts out. I've pretty much narrowed it down to the vglide or the controller. Any advice?
I'm surprised you converted the cart and didn't go to an mcor.
Vglides are terrible, but if cart stops after a short distance, is the solenoid dropping out?
Make sure all connections are tight with no corrosion, and that the solenoid is good. Then I would figure out how to jumper the vglide microswitch wires together and try that.
@@waynemartin.waynesgolfcart4900 ok, thank you. Can the resistors on the vglide be visually inspected or do they need to be tested? My knowledge and abilities are quite limited.
The cart had already been converted when i bought it.
you have the small resistors on the back of the vglide? Those are terrible.
You can visually inspect them to make sure they are not broke or burnt. Other than that, you need a meter to test them.
If I have a 1992 club car ds i previously spoke with you about, I changed the f/r switch and solenoid on then brought to a guy to work on , he had supposedly worked on it 15 hours changed the switch 2 more times with 2 other used switches and changed v-glide and I guess shined the tires the other 14 hours . He said he was going to change the switch again for another one and if it did not work that the controller is bad. So he has now called to tell me I need a new controller not sure if it’s true or not but he says it’s $700 and that he can get mine re-built for 20 not sure if he is just trying to get me to buy a new one so he can keep my old one or get me to pay him so he can say mine is rebuilt and maybe nothing is wrong with it. So I am wondering Do I have to put the same exact controller in for $700 or can I replace it with a different controller wondering if they are interchangeable to some extent?
Tell me, by email or text, what is the issue with the cart, why you changed the solenoid and f/r switch? Did that help? Why did you take it to someone to fix?
Also, how old are the batteries? I can help you, with more info.
You can buy different brand controllers, you can also send yours in for rebuilding , yourself.
If they said they worked on it for 13 hours, I would be skeptical, you can gut and reinstall an entire new wiring and component system in that amount of time.
I have a 92 club car ds that when it goes up a hill it's very slow. What should I check to fix it.
That cart is so old, there isn't alot you can do about the speed.
Especially if it is 36-Volt. If it runs ok, just slow going up hill, the only thing that might help a little, is new batteries, but even that won't pick you up speed.
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